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Adirondack Sports March 2024

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COMMUNITY continued from 45<br />

er made it even harder. We hiked up the AT<br />

Hunt Trail in cool rain and fog, and came<br />

down the Abol Trail with sleet, adding a<br />

super-steep descent to our already challenging<br />

day. The next day I said goodbye<br />

to Kathy, and headed into the 100-Mile<br />

Wilderness, where I would be out of touch<br />

for up to eight days.<br />

The Trail – The AT is the best marked<br />

trail I’ve ever been on. There are incredible<br />

views and scary exposed places in all<br />

14 states. My favorites were Clingmans<br />

Dome in North Carolina, Mount Lafayette<br />

in New Hampshire, and McAfee Knob on<br />

Catawba Mountain in Virginia, and lots<br />

of great lakes, rivers and streams. It’s got<br />

miles and miles of fast smooth terrain,<br />

and it also has some stuff that is crazy<br />

steep, and needs to be climbed up and<br />

down with care. I had some places where<br />

I could run for five miles and others where<br />

I was lucky to go one-mile per hour. It was<br />

fantastic when I would climb for what<br />

seemed like hours, and then find that the<br />

top of the mountain had incredible views.<br />

I also had times with snow and ice, no<br />

view, and poor trail conditions. They did<br />

not put the modern AT on easy terrain.<br />

The People – The people were the best<br />

part of the AT. We were on-trail for our<br />

own reasons and we had different paths<br />

in life that led us to the trail. We were all<br />

moving with one goal in mind, to thruhike<br />

the AT. We shared the dream of a<br />

big physical and mental/emotional challenge,<br />

and of seeing the legendary views of<br />

the Appalachians. Real bonds form faster<br />

on the trail than I anticipated. My trail<br />

family, especially Pacer and Swiss, will be<br />

part of me forever.<br />

I met thousands of people, especially<br />

when NOBO. There were retirees, high<br />

school and college grads, people between<br />

jobs, and those recovering from hard stuff.<br />

I felt very safe and found that we were willing<br />

to help each other with food, supplies,<br />

phone charges and toilet paper. As they<br />

say on the trail, the trail provides. “Trail<br />

Angels” are those who do special acts of<br />

kindness on the trail. It might be food at a<br />

road crossing, a ride into town for resupply<br />

or a cooler with beer, water and snacks<br />

at a trailhead.<br />

“Hiker hunger” is a term used for the<br />

level of insane hunger hikers feel as they<br />

push themselves day after day. I had to<br />

take in 5,000+ calories daily just to maintain<br />

my energy and not lose too much<br />

weight. Water filtration and hydrating<br />

with electrolyte drinks is also important.<br />

I was usually going through three-to-six<br />

liters a day, not including the water in my<br />

breakfast and dinner.<br />

The hostels were one of the best parts<br />

■ DIVING SWAN AT THE SUMMIT<br />

OF MOUNT KATAHDIN, MAINE.<br />

of the trail. Trail towns usually have<br />

a few hostels where you can rest,<br />

shower, eat and resupply. They are<br />

in sheds, old garages, nice lodges<br />

and the homes of trail angels. Each<br />

hostel has its own vibe and character.<br />

I met folks who have been doing<br />

it for decades and others who are just<br />

starting out.<br />

The Joys and Beauty – I loved the people!<br />

When I started, I found that we were<br />

all bonded by our anxiety and excitement.<br />

The bonds formed during the first several<br />

weeks would be lifelong.<br />

My trail family formed quickly. We<br />

would share our stories, dreams, fears and<br />

histories, and we would laugh, joke and<br />

rejoice as we climbed mountains, passed<br />

our first 100 miles, and took care of each<br />

other when we were injured, hungry and<br />

cold. Even when we parted ways, we’d stay<br />

connected and support each other. I was<br />

also very lucky to have an old friend, Billy,<br />

meet me at Harpers Ferry both times, and<br />

celebrate the halfway and finish with me.<br />

The Hard Parts and Unexpected – The<br />

difficult parts are many and began before I<br />

even got on the trail. I knew it would be difficult<br />

to say goodbye to my wife, and it was.<br />

We were celebrating our 29th anniversary<br />

with friends just before starting and then<br />

I got Covid. I had to isolate myself from<br />

everyone until the night prior to starting<br />

in Georgia. I have a better idea now what<br />

it means that, “absence makes the heart<br />

grow fonder,” as my grandfather said about<br />

how he missed my grandmother when he<br />

was away during WWII.<br />

Hard and wonderful things happen<br />

when you least expect them. I was lucky<br />

enough to get a call from my daughter<br />

when she matched for residency and<br />

then again when she and her partner got<br />

■ DIVING SWAN CELEBRATING<br />

AT MCAFEE KNOB, VIRGINIA.<br />

■ US VETERAN/ITCHY FEET AND<br />

DIVING SWAN CELEBRATING<br />

AFTER COMPLETING THE<br />

DRAGONS TOOTH IN VIRGINIA.<br />

engaged. Unexpectedly, I learned that<br />

our Aunt Julie passed away. I got off trail<br />

to be with family to mourn and celebrate<br />

her life. While off-trail I was lucky enough<br />

to surprise my middle daughter when she<br />

arrived stateside from Army deployment.<br />

At one low point I had to confess to my<br />

daughter Ruby that I was not sure I would<br />

be able to finish the thru-hike.<br />

In terms of physical challenge, some<br />

of the hardest hiking I did was in Maine.<br />

After being off-trail for the summer, I started<br />

my southbound (SOBO) flip at Mount<br />

Katahdin. The weather was tough from the<br />

start. We had rain and sleet on top, and the<br />

Hundred Mile Wilderness and the rest of<br />

Maine, would prove to be very challenging<br />

and wet. The rain and muddy bogs kept my<br />

feet wet for weeks and I struggled to dry<br />

my socks, shoes and feet. Eventually I had<br />

to get off-trail due to “trench foot,” which<br />

is very painful and makes it hard to walk,<br />

and can escalate into an infection that<br />

can do permanent damage. I tried to take<br />

two days off to heal, but then reluctantly<br />

decided to get off-trail, and thought my<br />

hike might be over. I had to admit to myself<br />

that I might not finish my thru-hike. I was<br />

so sad and dejected and now knew what<br />

post-hike depression was about.<br />

I spent the next week healing and<br />

finally went for a trial overnight trip with<br />

my daughter, Caroline. We had a great trip<br />

with just a bit of rain. Thanks to Kathy for<br />

driving me, I was back in Maine the following<br />

weekend heading south again.<br />

MARCH <strong>2024</strong> 47<br />

■ CAROLINE SLYER<br />

BACKPACKING WITH<br />

DIVING SWAN IN<br />

MASSACHUSETTS.<br />

■ MOUNT GREYLOCK,<br />

MASSACHUSETTS TRAIL,<br />

MAGIC, WITH SWISS AND<br />

OTHER THRU-HIKERS<br />

HEADING NORTH.<br />

The rest of Maine was challenging, but<br />

I had almost a full week without rain, and<br />

my self-doubt was fading. I would continue<br />

to be challenged by big mountains and<br />

cold weather through New Hampshire,<br />

Vermont, Massachusetts and beyond. I<br />

met very few SOBOs and hiked alone for<br />

the rest of the hike, which was tough. I<br />

love people and this was my longest time<br />

completely alone in my entire life. I got<br />

so caught up being alone that I began to<br />

count the white blaze trail markers. I’d<br />

give myself prizes, call family, eat Sour<br />

Patch Kids, look at my watch for each 10,<br />

50, 100 blazes. I did this for days until I got<br />

to 750 blazes in one day and I finally quit<br />

playing my mental game of Pac-Man.<br />

There were times when I wondered if<br />

I was crazy, and it got really hard to stay<br />

motivated when I was alone. Going up<br />

mountains, racing the sun to get to shelters<br />

to heat up water for dehydrated food, and<br />

sleeping alone in the cold was difficult.<br />

I am so glad that I made the hike about<br />

something more than my own dream. A<br />

few weeks before starting, I decided to<br />

raise money for the SkyHigh Adventure<br />

Center. The Sand Lake Kiwanis and Sand<br />

Lake Seniors made the initial $6,000 in<br />

pledges and donations before I even started.<br />

As I hiked, the donations kept coming<br />

in and we surpassed our goal of $22,000<br />

before the end of 2023. Thank you to all<br />

of the donors. I’m not sure I would have<br />

finished if it had not been for them.<br />

See COMMUNITY 49 ▶

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