THE SIMPSON TRAVELLER 2024

ITALY
ITALY
Image: Ostuni
Five of the best
ITALY
Image
VILLA DDÒ,
PUGLIA
Sleeps 6
A triumph of minimalist
design, this villa glistens
white amidst the beautiful
Puglian countryside,
surrounded by olive trees.
An olive tree legacy
Around a decade ago, Puglia produced up to
half of Italy’s olive oil. However, in recent years,
many groves have fallen victim to Xylella fastidiosa
bacteria, which has killed over 20 million trees, some
of which were over a hundred years old. Scientists
around the world are developing solutions to fight
the disease, which also affects vines and other fruit
trees. In Puglia’s Torre Guaceto nature reserve, where
there is understandable reluctance to use chemical
agents, a new approach is being trialled. By planting
new seedlings around the base of old trees, the Torre
Guaceto team aim to increase biodiversity and create
a natural protective barrier around the surviving trees,
without any negative environmental impact.
We’re acutely aware of being guests in each of
our featured destinations, and we try to support local
community initiatives where possible as a way of
saying thank you. We were pleased to donate 500
young plants to the project, and some of our local
team went along to help with the planting. This being
Puglia, the day turned into a wonderful community
event, with generous supplies of local food and
drink for all the volunteers. Our thanks to our local
representative Ketty, and to everyone else involved.
“Ostuni boasts not one, but four
Michelin-starred restaurants.”
If you don’t do dairy then look away now, because
our next adventure was creating mozzarella and
burrata: a Puglian speciality made from mozzarella
and cream. After donning natty hair nets, adding
some whey and heating the milk in a hot bath, we
were set (or, rather, the mozzarella was). Stretching
the mozzarella was the last stage, and then we
displayed our skills by making various shapes.
Mozzarella mastered, it was on to the burrata,
which required more skill. Break into the outer
layer and you’ll find an oozing, soft interior made
of small cheese curds and cream. The Italian
word burro translates as butter, giving you an idea of
just how rich and creamy it is. Next, it was off to the
cellars to see how the cheese matures. While it doesn’t
look (or smell!) pretty, it certainly tastes amazing.
After the hands-on cheese experience, we were
ready for something rather more sophisticated.
Fortunately, Il Sogno delle Benedettine in Ostuni
delivered. You would have no idea that such an
amazing hotel was hidden right in the centre of the
town. Neither of us had ever stayed in such a cool
place, and were thrilled to be given room 3, which
not only had a freestanding bath in the room but
also its own Jacuzzi pool. Everything in the hotel is
sourced locally (within 1km) including the artwork,
breakfast and even the signature room fragrance
(which Éva bought to take home). It’s definitely a
place for those wanting a unique experience, but with
the added convenience of being in the centre of an
historic town. Even better, it boasts not one, but four
Michelin-starred restaurants. We settled for a simple
dinner in Ostuni but hadn’t mastered the art of
ordering without Francesco; my pork shank was the
size of a small child.
The next day saw us back in Francesco’s
capable hands as we sped Italian-style to fill an
unexpectedly free couple of hours and get to
Alberobello before the crowds. Part of a UNESCO
World Heritage site, it’s among the most famous
of the region’s attractions and home to the largest
collection of trulli. Admittedly, it is very touristy but
still worth a visit, though perhaps not in the height of
the season, unless you arrive early. For an alternative
day out, we’d suggest Cisternino, a Slow Food town
that holds a number of food festivals in August, or
Lecce, with its Roman amphitheatre and Baroque
architecture. After a week of fantastic properties and
the most memorable meals we’ve ever had, it was
sadly time to return home to restrained portions and
no more cake for breakfast – but what an experience!
ÉVA VIDÁK
& DAVID
CONITZER
Destination
specialists
Е`va and David
are in-house
experts at
Simpson Travel.
TRULLO RAFFAELLA,
PUGLIA
Sleeps 5
Live the dream and
stay in an authentic
converted trullo in the
magical Valle d’Itria.
Truly original.
TENUTA FONTE,
PUGLIA
Sleeps 8
Combining gleaming
white walls, ancient olive
trees and a striking
design, this is a unique
and stylish retreat.
VILLA FORCONI,
UMBRIA
Sleeps 6
A classic Italian villa,
cradled in a fairytale
Umbrian landscape and
blessed with endless
views across gentle hills.
VILLA MILLE
DESIDERI, TUSCANY
Sleeps 11
Full of original
character and charm,
a six-bedroom home
where all the family
are welcome.
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