DRIFT Travel Magazine Spring 2024

CHARMING ÓBIDOS!
Crowning the top of a hilltop, Óbidos
is often called the Queen’s Present
– a reference to its connection to a
royal romance when the town was
gifted to Queen Isabel by King Dinis
in the 13th century. It continued to
be passed down as part of the royals’
dowry which contributed to it being
one of the best-preserved medieval
towns in the country. Less than an
hour’s drive from Lisbon it’s a sweet
getaway for lovers of architecture,
books and chocolate.
Ginja & Chocolates. Stepping through
massive meter-thick walls that are
draped in brilliant bougainvillea
reveals a picturesque village with
sparkling white washed buildings
and colorful shutters. Narrow
cobblestone streets demand a slow
stroll which a perfect way to savor
this sweet place.
TURN BACK THE
PAGES OF TIME AND
THE STORIES ARE
OF CASTLES AND
KINGS, DARING SEA
FARING, AND A RICH
CULTURAL HISTORY.
The main street of Rua Direita
that leads up to the historic castle
is a dawdler’s dream with small
storefronts bursting with treasures of
pottery, tiles, textiles and bookstores
tucked along the way. In addition to
being a book lovers delight, Óbidos
has hosted international chocolate
festivals for close to two decades and
is also home to the traditional sour
cherry liqueur called Ginja that is
produced in the area. The small sour
Ginja berries, also known as Morella
cherries, are mixed with sugar and
spices like cinnamon and cloves to
create a luscious ruby liqueur that
can pack a punch. Street stalls offer
plenty of samples but the ultimate
combo is a shot of Ginja served in a
chocolate cup.
DON’T JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS
COVER
Continuing along the main street
leads to the stunning Church of
Santiago. Built in 1186, it was used
by the royal family when they were
in residence at the castle and with
a church door that opened directly
into castle, it was an easy commute.
The structure was rebuilt in 1722
after a devastating earthquake and
was the inspiration behind the town’s
concept to repurpose abandoned
properties as bookstores. Now
it is the largest and prettiest of
the 11 booksellers, with volumes
that stretch up the walls towards
the heavens and surround the
ornate alter.
Other buildings, often disguised,
have also been put to literary work.
The Livraria do Mercao sells local
fruit and vegetables along with
herbs, chocolates - and books. Old
wooden boxes that were used to
harvest produce now swing from the
ceiling and are stacked with titles.
And a few stores down, the bottles
have been replaced with books at a
former winery.
The Casa de Saramago is a delightful
library that pays homage to the
country’s favorite literary son, Jose
Saramago. Architecturally designed
with a sleek and contemporary
interior, the three-story building
has cozy chairs to curl up in
and a stunning roof top terrace
with sweeping views of the town
and beyond.
DRIFT TRAVEL
11
DRINK – OR FALL
ASLEEP WITH A BOOK
Bibliophiles will swoon when they
enter the Literary Man Hotel.
Formerly a convent, the 30-room
hotel is awash with sunny yellow
walls, antique ceramic tiles, stone
floors – and books from floor to
ceiling. Over 45,000 titles line the
hallways, climb up the walls and are
poised in cozy nooks for readers to
tuck in and read. The restaurant
serves Portuguese favorites like
codfish and shrimp, while the lounge
has its own brand of ginja that makes
an ideal souvenir to sip - over a
book, of course!