DRIFT Travel Magazine Spring 2024

filigree, gilded archways, massive
frescoes that caress walls and
soaring ceilings, ornate carvings and
60,000 books, some that date back
to the 16th century.
The building is an architectural
marvel with exterior walls over
six feet thick and double wall that
effectively forms a vault to maintain
a constant temperature and keeps
moisture at bay. The space between
the walls creates reading rooms,
ladders are invisibly tucked within
the design to reach the sky-high
books, and the oak bookshelves were
selected for their density and ability
to repel insects.
For over 250 years at the end of each
day the library rolls out leather mats
to cover the tables in preparation of
the arrival of the colony of bats who
forage at night on the bugs that are
the books’ foe.
THE ACADEMIC PRISON
Until 1834, the university was self
governing and the on-site prison,
located deep under the foundations
of the library, protected faculty and
students from any contact with
common criminals. Head down
to see the winding staircase and
hobbit-like cells that are the oldest
in the country and date back to
medieval times.
AND THERE’S MORE
Other musts include the 18th
century Botanical Garden which is
considered to be one of the great
gardens of the world and dates
back to 1772. Filled with fountains,
sculptures, an antique greenhouse
and even an old chapel in the
woods, it’s easy to spend hours
exploring. And the Museu Nacional
de Machado de Castro is a beauty.
Housed in the former Bishop’s
Palace, it includes the cloister from
the 12th century church, early alters,
a stunning art collection, Gothic
sculptures, ornately crafted furniture,
and silver. But the highlight could
very well be what lies below the
museum - an enormous two-story
series of tunnels, passageways and
stalls that were discovered during
excavations and are remnants of an
ancient Roman forum.
LITERARY LISBON
Lisbon has a certain air of romance
about it with the salt air, sunshine
and charming architecture. Here
are a few of the favorite haunts of
Fernando Pessoa, one of the great
poets of the 20th century poets who
lived in Lisbon for most of his life.
DINING WITH A GHOST AT
LISBON’S OLDEST RESTAURANT
A couple of steps inside Martinho
da Arada, Lisbon’s oldest restaurant,
reveals a table displaying a
reservation under the Fernando
Pessoa. Sadly, he died in 1935 at
the age of 47, but was a regular at
the café that has been a fixture for
artists and intellectuals for over 200
years. This is said to have been
Pessoa’s favorite café and he would
often stay after it closed to write.
The restaurant drips of history and
old-world charm with marble floors,
white linen tablecloths, banquettes
tucked in the alcoves and snappy
waiters in crisp white shirts and black
vests. If only the walls could talk.
DRIFT TRAVEL
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