talking point - Rhondda Cynon Taf

Back on the road, we soon reach the Brynffynon Inn and St
Gwynno’s Church, which are all that is left of the hamlet of
Llanwynno. The Brynffynon, relaxed and timeless with a
reputation for excellent food, dreams the years away in its
mossy glade, leather sofas round roaring fires in the lounge
in winter. The Church is thirteenth century, much rebuilt in
the late nineteenth, but standing on a site selected by St
Gwynno who settled here c. AD549. Inside the church there is
a 1,300-year-old stone cross, but most visitors come to see
the churchyard and the grave of Griffith Morgan (1700-1737),
known as Guto Nyth Brân after his farm near Porth. Guto was
a legendary runner who once covered the 13 miles from
Bedwas to Newport in 53 minutes to win a 1000 guinea
purse, but dropped dead when slapped on the back in
congratulation by his girlfriend Siân! Races in Guto’s
honour are still run round the streets of nearby
Mountain Ash by the light of flaring torches on
New Year’s Eve.
St Gwynno’s Church
From Llanwynno, the road wins
the open summit of Cefn Gwyngul by a
steep pull and then the world drops away in front
to reveal a vast panorama of mountain ridges marching
ever westwards, whilst to the left is Tylorstown Tip, a truncated cone
of colliery spoil which is a permanent feature in many landscapes from the
Brecon Beacons to Exmoor, like a prop which remains doggedly on stage during
different productions. There is a path to the summit with probably the best 360 degree
view in South Wales.
The stretch of the A4233 between Ferndale and Aberdare with its views of Carmarthen and
Brecon Beacons and its zig-zag descent into the Cynon Valley is described in Route 2 “Heritage
and Hillside” and Aberdare is covered in Route 4. Our present route takes us through Aberdare
Town Centre following the A4059 signs for Neath and Hirwaun for some three miles and then
choosing the A4059 for Brecon at the roundabout where the A465 heads off towards Neath.
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