MINUTES UIAA COUNCIL MEETING, May 2006

INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING FEDERATION 

UNION INTERNATIONALE DES ASSOCIATIONS D’ALPINISME 

M I N U T E S 

UIAA COUNCIL MEETING, May 2006 

Museo Nazionale della Montagna, Torino, Italy 

12 th May 2006, 14:00 – 17:00 and 

13 th May 2006, 09:00 – 12:00 and 14:00 – 17:00 

PRESENT 

Council 

Franz KASSEL Verband Alpiner Vereine Oesterreichs Austria VAVOE 

Marc Van de WALLE Club Alpin Belge Belgium CAB-BAC 

Mike MORTIMER Alpine Club of Canada Canada ACC 

Yongfeng WANG Chinese Mountaineering Federation China CMA 

Claude ECKHARDT Fédération française des clubs alpins et de 

montagne 

France FFCAM 

Josef KLENNER Deutscher Alpenverein Germany DAV 

Dimitris GEORGOULIS Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and 

Climbing 

Greece EOOA 

Silvio CALVI Club Alpino Italiano Italy CAI 

Fumio TANAKA Japan Mountaineering Association Japan JMA 

Chung-Hyun NAM Corean Alpine Club Korea CAC 

Roland MAGG The Mountain Club of South Africa South Africa MCSA 

Joan GARRIGOS y Toro Federacion Espaňola de Deportes de Montaňa y 

Escalada 

Spain FEDME 

Frank Urs MÜLLER Club Alpin Suisse Switzerland SAC-CAS 

IN ATTENDANCE 

Council Candidates 

Mark VALLANCE British Mountaineering Council Great Britain BMC 

Bart WILLEMSEN Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club Netherlands NKBV 

Yuri SKURLATOV from Friday 

16:40 

Climbing Federation of Russia Russia CFR 

Michael PUPEZA Clubul Alpin Roman Romania CAR

Minutes Council Meeting Turin, 12 th – 13 th May 2006, continued 

Commission Presidents 

Jean-Franck CHARLET Safety France FFME 

Dave MORRIS Mountain protection Great Britain BMC 

Renato MORO Expeditions Italy CAI 

Anne ARRAN Youth Great Britain BMC 

Buddha BASNYAT Medical Nepal NMA 

Axel van WILLIGENBURG 

(VP) 

Mountaineering Netherlands NKBV 

Robert PETTIGREW Access & Conservation Great Britain BMC 

Carlos TEIXEIRA (Sat. only) 

UIAA Climbing 

Ice Climbing Portugal FCMP 

Marco SCOLARIS President Italy CAI 

Alexander PIRATINSKIY from 

Friday 16:40 

Vice-President Russia CFR 

Reindert LENSELINK from 

Friday 16:40 

Secretary General Netherlands NKBV 

David DORNIAN North American Council Canada ACC 

Debra GAWRYCH from Friday 

16:40 

UIAA Ski Mountaineering 

Management Committee USA USA 

Climbing 

Jordi COLOMER Gallego President Spain FEDME 

Lluĩs LOPEZ Leiro 

BOARD 

Secretary General Spain FEDME 

Pierre HUMBLET President a.i. 

Jan BØNDING Secretary General 

Jürg SCHWEIZER Treasurer 

Marco SCOLARIS Assoc. Vice-President for Competition Climbing 

Paola GIGLIOTTI Member 

Nico de JONG Member 

Zhixin LI 

STAFF 

Judith SAFFORD 

Member 

HONORARY MEMBERS 

William Lowell PUTNAM 

OTHER PARTICPANTS 

Jordi PONS Vice President Spain FEDME 

Guowei LI Accompanying person to Zhixin Li China CMA 

Theodoros TSANDARIDIS Accompanying person to Dimitris Georgoulis Greece EOOA 

Peter MÄDER Accompanying person to Frank Urs Müller Switzerland SAC-CAS 

Kobinata TORU Accompanying person to Fumio Tanaka Japan JMA 

ABSENT / EXCUSED 

Robbert LEOPOLD Honorary member 

Eliza MORAN President Mountaineering Commission 

Chair: Pierre HUMBLET, President a.i., Minutes: Judith SAFFORD 

Council Meeting Turin 2006 approved.doc/ Page 2 of 11


MINUTES OF THE FIRST SESSION 

12 th May 2006, 14:25 – 17:30 

1. Welcome by the President and apologies for absence 

The President a.i., HUMBLET opened the meeting at 14:25. 

1.1 Council members present 

Total number of members 15 (4 out of 19 seats are vacant). 13 Members are present. 

Thus the majority is 7. 

HUMBLET reported on the work done to clarify the process of election. In the Council 

elections of 2004 in New Delhi all the members, except the statutory 5 members from 

the largest Federations, were elected unanimously, without consideration of which type 

of seat they would occupy. 

In the electronic vote of Council members after the GA 2005 in Singapore two 

problems arose: 

1) There are 3 types of Council members: statutory representatives from the 

countries with the largest number of members (5), continental representatives 

from the member associations (9), and other representatives (5). The type of 

the candidate submitted was not defined before the elections, thus it was 

unclear which type the members had been elected. 

2) The votes were made according to Art. 11j AoA. The absolute majority for the 

election of Council members was not reached. 

A Swiss lawyer, Bernhard Berger in Bern, was consulted. The lawyer concluded that 

none of the candidates in the electronic vote for the Council elections reached the 

required affirmative majority and recommended to postpone the matter to the next 

General Assembly. 

Furthermore HUMBLET notes that all Council members and candidates were invited to 

the Turin meeting, independently of the results of the electronic voting process after 

Singapore. 

1.2 Council members’ advisors present 

not reported (see list of attendance). 

1.3 Observers and invited guests present 

not reported (see list of attendance). 

1.4 Declaration of vacant seats 

HUMBLET declared that the Council member seat of Sadegh Aghajani is vacant. 

1.5 Changes to and approval of Agenda 

Agenda approved without changes. 



2. Minutes of the Council meeting at Singapore in October 2005 1 

Motion: To allow consideration of Mr. Alan Blackshaw’s criticisms 2 , the approval of the 

Minutes of the Singapore Council meeting will be postponed until the next Council 

meeting. The Minutes of the Council meeting of Singapore will be edited in a new form 

taking Alan Blackshaw’s remarks into account. This job will be done by the Board and 

submitted to the Council before the end of June. 

In favour: 12 Against: 1 Abstentions: 0 

� MOTION for the consideration of Mr Blackshaw’s criticisms PASSED 

MORTIMER proposed the following Resolution: 

The Council of UIAA assembled in Turin on 12 th May declares as follows: 

To thank Alan Blackshaw for his many years of devoted and competent service to the 

alpinists of the world through his service as a working group member, chairman and 

officer of the UIAA. 

In favour: 12 Against: 0 Abstentions: 1 

MOTION to thank Mr Blackshaw PASSED 

3. Finance (Jürg Schweizer) 

3.1 Preliminary annual accounts for 2005 

Oral presentation of written report 3 . 

PUTNAM asked where the increased reserves are held. SCHWEIZER replied that they 

are invested in saving accounts. 

3.2 Current financial position and forecast 


CALVI remarked that only CHF 19’000 of 55’000 CHF budgeted for the Commissions 

were spent. He recommended that the CHF 61’000 budgeted for 2006 be spent. 

SCHWEIZER supported this view, on condition that there are good projects to spend it 

on. 

MAGG asked if the budget was made under the new fee system. SCHWEIZER replied 

that the assumptions are based on the old fee system. 

1 

Draft minutes Council Singapore.pdf 

2 

Blackshaw Problems Draft Minutes Oct05.pdf 

3 

Finances 2004 – 2006.pdf 

4 See footnote 2. 



3.3 Report from the Office 

Oral presentation of written report 5 . In the next months the Board will consider how the 

Office will develop, depending upon the inputs it receives, amongst other from the 

Commissions. 

MORTIMER asked about budget for the Journal. SCHWEIZER replied that 

contributions for a short 16 page journal are welcome by the end of May. A major 

edition will be published in autumn. 

4. Reports and Programs of the Commissions 

4.1 Medical (Buddha Basnyat) 


There were no questions on the report. 

4.2 Youth (Anne Arran) 

Oral presentation of written report 7 . Downloads of the reports on individual projects are 

available under the link “Global Youth summit” 

There were no questions on the report. 

4.3 Expeditions (Renato Moro) 

Oral presentation of written report 8 , with emphasis on structural problems and poor 

attendance. 

CALVI referred to the Regulations of the Commissions concerning attendance and 

compares these to the Council. He recommended that similar criteria as for the Council 

be applied to the Commissions. 

KLENNER believed that a precise Mission statement and clear planning would ease 

the tasks and targets to find suitable people for the Commission. 

MAGG reminded the meeting that according to Article 15 of the AoA it lies in the 

authority of the Council to “designate the tasks and responsibilities”. 

KLENNER replied that proposals for consideration must come from the experts in the 

Commissions. 

5 

Comments on financial accounts 2005.pdf 

6 

Medical Commission Report.pdf 

7 

Youth Commission Report.pdf 

8 

Expeditions Commission Report.pdf 



4.4 Mountain protection (Dave Morris) 

Oral presentation of written reports and Annexes 9 . 

KLENNER regretted that he received the papers so late. He requested that the papers 

be separated in personal reports and official reports of the Mountain Protection 

Commission. The Annexe C (Resolution on climate change / production and use of 

energy in mountains) needs substantial overworking. He proposed sharing expertise 

with the Club Arc Alpin, i.e. with Claude Eckhardt. 

MORRIS accepted the arguments of Klenner and stated that he would act upon them. 

4.5 Access & conservation (Bob Pettigrew) 

Oral and PowerPoint presentation of written report 10 , and an additional personal 

comment on the future of the UIAA. 

GIGLIOTTI requested Access and Conversation and Mountain Protection to integrate 

their tasks. PETTIGREW believed their tasks to be different. 

ECKHARDT asked if the Access & Conservation Commission intends to go to Peru for 

a meeting and assist the Peru Federation in access problems. He pointed out that 

Peru is not a member of the UIAA, and should be asked to join. 

4.6 Mountaineering (Axel van Willigenburg) 

Oral presentation of written report, including criticism of the Website 11 . 

HUMBLET emphasised that the content for the Website must come from the 

Commissions. 

4.7 Safety (Jean-Franck Charlet) 


MORTIMER emphasised that the news from REI is very important, because the UIAA 

is not so well known in North America. 

GAWRYCH enquired who started the questions about artificial structures and whether 

the work of the Commissions is being co-ordinated with other parties. 

MAGG asked how long it takes for standards to be developed and implemented. 

CHARLET replied that this varies: from one year to very long term. 

CALVI stated that the testing laboratories must acquire recognition by official state 

offices in order to be approved for technical standards such as ISO and must be 

certified with the adequate standards. 

9 Mountain Protection Report and Annexes A, B, C, D 

10 Access and Conservation Commission Report.pdf 

11 Mountaineering Report May 2006 and Open Letter from Eliza Moran 06_05_06.pdf 

12 Safety Commission Report.doc 



MINUTES OF THE SECOND AND THIRD SESSIONS 

13 th May 2006, 9:10 – 12:45 and 14:20 – 17:40 

5. UIAA restructuring 

5.1 Introduction 

HUMBLET described the various steps taken by the Board: 

- The little lexicon to explain technical terms was uploaded on the website 13 . 

- The continental forums were organised (Munich, South America, New Delhi). There 

were also meetings with the Sports Bodies (Bern) and the Commission Presidents 

(Amsterdam). 

5.2 Presentation of the Problems 

DE JONG made a short introduction with a PowerPoint presentation explaining the 

nature of the problems, why the discussions on structure are necessary and what the 

threats in the situation are. 

5.3 Possible Solutions: Discussion of the various models presented 

HUMBLET presented the 3 branches model in the PowerPoint presentation available 

as pdf-file on the website 14 . 

GAWRYCH presented the model available on the website from UIAA climbing 15 , which 

proposes an UIAA structure as a confederal organisation, with a common umbrella in 

the form of an Foundation. 

5.4 Practical solutions: Discussion of the various models presented 

The models were discussed intensely, as well as the option of a split-off of UIAA 

Climbing. 

5.5 Recommendations from the Council for the GA in Banff 

After the long discussions MÜLLER proposed a consultative vote by the Council. The 

motion was 

Who is in favour of the 

a) Three branch proposal: 7 b) UIAA Climbing proposal: 4 c) Abstentions: 2 

� The 3 branch model is favoured by a small majority of 7 to 4, with 2 

abstentions. 

13 

A Little Lexicon.pdf 

14 

April 23 2006 Three Branches Model Development.pdf 

15 

Proposal UIAA Climbing 2006 new structure.ppt 



6. Competition Activities 

6.1 Plans and Reports 

UIAA Climbing SCOLARIS referred to his written report 16 to the Council meeting and 

has nothing to add to it. There were no questions or comments. 

ISCM COLOMER referred to the written report 17 and also reported on the activities of 

the ISCM in 2005/06, in particular the World Championship. There were no questions 

or comments. 

Ice Climbing TEIXEIRA reported at length with a PowerPoint presentation on the 

Commission’s work for Ice Climbing Competition 18 . 

HUMBLET thanked TEIXEIRA for his contribution and hard work. 

PIRANTINSKIY objected to the Russian Commission member, Shavalin, from the 

UMCR, because the latter is no longer a member organisation. The extended 

discussion was concluded with the commitment by TEIXEIRA to solve the problem, if 

one exists. 

Anti-Doping Commission The submitted report (jointly with the Disciplinary 

commission) was not presented at the meeting 19 . 

HUMBLET presented the new Confirmation of Compliancy from the WADA for the 

UIAA anti-doping rules 20 , and expressed his thanks to Ian Anderson and Renato 

Nicolai for the enormous amount of work that had been completed. 

LENSELINK also expressed his thanks on behalf of UIAA Climbing and pointed out 

that UIAA Climbing paid all the expenses for the new rules. 

7. Olympic Issues 

7.1 Report on the inclusion of our sports in the Olympics 

HUMBLET reported that the UIAA had received the Preliminary Questionnaire and 

returned it completed. The second questionnaire for Ski Mountaineering has also been 

received. He described how the Board will pursue the efforts at inclusion to the 2014 

Olympics. 

SCOLARIS stated the position of UIAA Climbing. The UIAA has not approached the 

IOC officially to express its interest to include Climbing in the Olympic games. There is 

wish to increase membership in UIAA Climbing and a request will be made to make 

waivers on membership to allow the wider participation from climbing countries. 

There were no further comments or questions. 

16 

UIAA Climbing.pdf 

17 

ISMC President’s Report.pdf 

18 

See also written report: Ice Climbing Report Turin Council meeting 2006.pdf 

19 

Anti Doping Report.pdf 

20 

Confirmation of Compliancy – UIAA anti-doping regulations.pdf 



7.2 Sport Accord Meeting 

HUMBLET reported on the meetings of the Sport Accord, the annual international 

sports convention, which he and Marco Scolaris attended in Seoul. They attended the 

General Assembly of the WORLD GAMES, ARISF, GAISF and the Association of 

Summer Olympic International Federations (ASOIF) for the first time. It is very difficult 

for new Sports to obtain recognition in these organisations: the adoption of a new 

Sport requires a 2/3 majority. 

There were no comments or questions. 

8. Membership Issues 

8.1 Status of membership and fee payments. 

SCHWEIZER referred to the written report of item 3.1. As of end April 2006 about half 

of the membership fees have been paid. 

There were no comments or questions. 

8.2 Changes to Commission membership 

The were the following changes reported to the Board: 

Medical Commission: New: Alexandra Koukoutsi, Greece, EOOA, plus three new 

corresponding members from the CAI Italy: Enrico Donegani, Adriano Rinaldi, 

Giancelso Agazzi 21 . 

Anti-Doping Commission: New: Stephen Mitchell, Australia SCA; resigned: Johan 

Holmgren, Sweden SKF 22 

The proposed change to the Ice Climbing Commission was withdrawn by 

TEIXIERA 23 . 

KLENNER asked whether the Member Federations have been consulted and have 

approved their respective candidates. 

CALVI confirmed that the CAI must officially designated full members. The three 

corresponding members of the Medical Commissions can be admitted and the Italian 

Federation has been informed in this Meeting. 

The Council voted for the above proposed admissions in the Medical and Anti-Doping 

Commissions 

Vote on the admission of the candidates Koukoutsi (medical) and Mitchell (Anti- 

Doping) 

For admission: 10 Against admission: 0 Abstentions: 2 

� The candidates Koukoutsi (Medical) and Mitchell (Anti-Doping) are elected. 

21 Members_Medical_Comm_Council_May_06.pdf 

22 Members_AntiDoping_Comm_Council_May_06.pdf 

23 Members_Ice_Climbing_Comm_Council_May_06.pdf 



9. Any other business 

9.1. Motion by Robert Pettigrew 24 

Amendment of the General Regulations for the Commissions as follows: 

Article 2.8, Para 2: 

“At the occasion of Council meetings a special meeting shall be held between 

the Commission Presidents and the Board of the UIAA. The principal purpose of 

this Meeting is the co-operation between the Commissions and the collaboration 

with the Board.” 

On the occasions of Council Meetings provision shall be made for a formal meeting of 

the Presidents of UIAA Commissions and Competition Bodies to be convened and 

chaired by an elected President from their own number. The principal purpose of the 

meeting shall be to contribute to the well-being and proper functioning of the UIAA by: 

i. Collective preparations for the presentations and reports to be made to the 

Council and General Assembly. 

ii. Encouraging efficient and coordinated actions between the Commissions and 

Competition Bodies, 

iii. Permitting an opportunity for collective planning for budget proposals, etc. 

iv. Promoting effective communication and use of common channels such as the 

UIAA Journal and website, 

v. Sharing information and contacts with other interested organisations. 

The UIAA Officers shall be invited to attend the meetings as observers. The 

proceedings of the meetings shall be minuted in accordance with normal custom and 

practice as set out in Article 21. 

The Mountaineering Commission believed that there should be a formal meeting 

between the Commission Presidents, but not together with the Competition Sports 

Presidents, and probably with the Board, because the Board should co-ordinate the 

work of the Commission. The Mountaineering Commission believed that there is no 

need for an elected President, but there is the need for a technical chair, probably 

from one of the Commission. Bob Pettigrew agrees to amend the motion accordingly. 

DE JONG expressed the view of the Board and referred to the written comment of the 

Board from 29 th April 2006 25 . The Board sees no reason to change the existing 

regulations; particularly now, because the UIAA is in the middle of a process of 

structural change. 

24 

Motion to Amend and Emend the General Regulations for Commission.pdf 

25 

Comment and position of the Board to the motion Pettigrew.pdf 



9.1 Motion by Robert Pettigrew continued: 

Revised Motion Pettigrew: Amendment of the General Regulations of Commissions 

that provision shall be made for a formal meeting of the Presidents of UIAA 

Commissions, as proposed above, with the amendments suggested by the 

Mountaineering commission. 

For the amendment: 4 Against the amendment: 6 Abstentions: 2 

The MOTION PETTIGREW is DEFEATED. 

9.2 Banff preparations and GA 

MORTIMER presented the draft timetable. Further details will be available shortly. 

9.3 Amended motion on item 2: thanks to Alan Blackshaw proposed by VALLANCE 

VALLANCE presented an amended motion from the motion passed yesterday 

concerning Alan Blackshaw: 

The Council of UIAA assembled in Turin on 13 th May declares as follows: 

To thank Alan Blackshaw for his many years of devoted and competent service to the 

alpinists of the world through his service as a working group member, chairman and 

President of the UIAA. 

HUMBLET stated that a vote of yesterday at the same Council meeting can not be 

rescinded, and put to vote again. 

PUTNAM believed that it can be rescinded. 

Lluĩs LOPEZ suggested that the motion can be submitted in its new form to the GA. 

10 Next meetings of the Council 

The item was not discussed. 

Judith Safford, Minute-taker 

Approved by the Council at its meeting in Banff, Canada on 13 th October 2006. 

Pierre Humblet, President a.i. and Chairman

MINUTES UIAA COUNCIL MEETING, May 2006

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?