Colour Chronicle - Oct 2008 - Clariant

Colour Chronicle - Oct 2008 - Clariant

Colour Chronicle - Oct 2008 - Clariant


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TLP Division<br />

<strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Chronicle</strong><br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited Publication<br />

for the Textile, Leather, Paper & allied processing industries<br />

29 th year of publication<br />

Number 3 | <strong>2008</strong>

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Contents<br />

textile 3<br />

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends<br />

Dyeing of PAC/Wo and PAC/CEL blends<br />

coldblack ® : Sun Reflector – UV Protector<br />

Some facts about light fastness<br />

leather 12<br />

New NMP-free Aqualen ® Tops by <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

Tanicor ® OS-IN p<br />

paper 15<br />

Cartacoat ® RM rheology modifiers<br />

Strength from the inner core<br />

GOTS approved list 19<br />

new arrivals 20<br />

inside views 22<br />

gleanings from press 25<br />

2 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong>

Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of:<br />

I – One Bath Method with Modified Basic<br />

Dyes for Acrylic and Indosol SF Dyes for<br />

Cellulosics<br />

This method is only recommended for pastel and<br />

medium shades.<br />

Thiotan S liq prevents precipitation between the<br />

cationic modifi ed basic dyes and anionic Indosol SF<br />

dyes, which may occur depending on the dyes and<br />

concentrations used.<br />

Standard recipe<br />

It is essential to set the dye bath in the following<br />

order:<br />

Liquor ratio: 1/10<br />

a) 1 g/l Thiotan S liq<br />

0.5 g/l sodium acetate<br />

Run 5-10 minutes<br />

b) x % Modified Basic Dye<br />

Run 5-10 minutes<br />

c) y % Indosol SF dye<br />

6 g/l sodium sulphate anh.<br />

d) Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5 with acetic acid.<br />

Dyeing Programme<br />

Acrylic<br />

II – Two Bath Method with Modified<br />

Basic Dyes / Drimaren CL Dyes<br />

For better brilliance and high wet fastness properties<br />

we can dye this blend in two baths with modifi ed<br />

basic dyes and Drimaren CL dyes.<br />

It is preferred to give wash with hot wash at 80°C<br />

for 10 minutes before dyeing cycle starts.<br />

Dyeing the acrylic component with modifi ed<br />

basic dyes dyes in the 1st bath<br />

Dyebath Composition<br />

x % modified basic dye<br />

0.3 g/l Ekaline F.IN liq<br />

6-8 g/l sodium sulphate anh.<br />

0.5 g/l sodium acetate<br />

3.5-0.5 % Retargal ANI based on<br />

acrylic component weight<br />

– Higher % for lighter<br />

depth<br />

pH = 4.5 acetic acid 80%<br />

Dyeing Programme<br />

Cotton<br />

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong> 3

4<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Over Dyeing the Cotton Component with Drimaren<br />

CL Dyes in the 2nd Bath<br />

Classic Drimaren dyeing with Thiotan S liq to<br />

avoid chances of precipitation and agglomeration<br />

of leftover cationic dyestuff and Drimaren dyes<br />

(0.5 g/l)<br />

After Treatment<br />

Rinse well<br />

Treat at 70 - 80°C for 15 mins. with:<br />

1 g/l Lyocol OU liq<br />

pH = 9 using soda ash<br />

Rinse.<br />

Special Treatment for very High Wet Fastness<br />

Properties.<br />

After treat with Optifi x F liq<br />

Same Method in Reverse Order<br />

Although, it is economical to carry out this method<br />

in the reverse order, i.e. fi rst dyeing the viscose<br />

component with Drimaren dyes and then the PAC<br />

with modifi ed basic dyes, dyed cotton component<br />

is more heavily stained by the basic dyes while the<br />

PAC is being over dyed (mordant effect), than when<br />

dyeing according to the conventional method. For<br />

this reason, the reverse method can only be carried<br />

out with specially selected basic dyes.

As a rule, PAC/Wo blends are dyed<br />

as yarn. Special attention has to<br />

be paid to the shrinkage. The ratio<br />

of the fi ber components, the self of<br />

wool, the felting tendency of wool<br />

and the glass transition point of the<br />

acrylic fi ber are also important factors.<br />

The most interesting process is the<br />

possibility of dyeing this blend in one bath.<br />

It has to be borne in mind that the wool is<br />

dyed in an acid medium with anionic dyes<br />

whereas PAC is dyed with cationic dyes in<br />

same medium.<br />

There are two problems to be solved:<br />

The prevention of precipitations between<br />

the two dye classes and the prevention of<br />

dye losses.<br />

While many non-ionic surfactants are<br />

soluble to prevent the precipitations, it is<br />

diffi cult to achieve both aims. The cationic<br />

dye, stains the wool at low temperature and<br />

migrates on reaching the glass transition<br />

point to the acrylic fi ber. The degree<br />

of staining of the wool at the end of the<br />

dyeing depends on:<br />

Saturation of the acrylic fi ber.<br />

Depth of the shade.<br />

Cationic dyes used.<br />

Use of glauber’s salt.<br />

Use of a suitable dispersant.<br />

The wool dyes hardly stain the PAC<br />

fi ber but are greatly hindered in exhausting<br />

onto the wool by unsuitable dispersants.<br />

Thiotan S liq achieves both aims; it<br />

disperses well and does not prevent build<br />

up on wool dyes.<br />

The Optilan MF dyes are particularly<br />

suitable because they dye the wool at<br />

textile<br />

Dyeing of PAC/Wo and<br />

PAC/CEL blends<br />

the isoelectric point and level without<br />

electrolyte at a pH which corresponds<br />

exactly to the recommendation for dyeing<br />

acrylic fi bers.<br />

Since the wool absorbs part of the acid,<br />

the pH of the bath may increase and lead to<br />

the following problems:<br />

Attack on the cationic dyes by<br />

hydrolysis.<br />

Increase in the staining of the wool<br />

dyes by hydrolysis.<br />

Only mediocre reproducibility of the<br />

shade on the wool component.<br />

For this reason, we recommend adding<br />

a little acid before the end of dyeing at<br />

98°C or 105°C to promote exhaustion of<br />

the basic dyes on the acrylic fi ber and the<br />

wool dyes on the wool. With deep shades,<br />

it is advisable to wash off with Ekaline<br />

F.IN liq to improve the end use fastness<br />

properties.<br />

PAC fi bers and Cotton or Viscose<br />

complete each other quite well in their<br />

physiological behavior (PAC: warm, non<br />

felting; CEL: good moisture absorption,<br />

no electrostatic charging). Due to their<br />

non-felting behavior, PAC/Co blends are<br />

becoming increasingly popular in the<br />

market. For these blends an HT dyeing<br />

is not necessary and very brilliant shades<br />

can be produced. One bath or one bath two<br />

stage processes are possible with results<br />

which meet the fastness requirements for<br />

domestic laundering.<br />

Again the dye classes used (cotton<br />

dyes – anionic; PAC dyes – cationic dyes)<br />

pose certain problems but <strong>Clariant</strong> offers<br />

solutions with various alternatives:<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


textile<br />

6 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Shade Dyes Dyeing Process<br />

Pale modified basic One Bath<br />

dyes/Indosol SF<br />

Pale-medium modified basic One Bath<br />

dyes/Indosol SF<br />

Dark modified basic One Bath/<br />

dyes/Indosol SF two stage<br />

Brilliant modified basic<br />

dyes/Drimaren K Two Bath<br />

Dark & Drimaren XN/ Two Bath<br />

Brilliant modified basic dyes<br />

(fixation with<br />

Optifix F liq)<br />

The shade and fastness properties are determined<br />

by the selection of dyes for the CEL fi ber. The<br />

economy is determined by the process.<br />

In all one bath processes the addition of a<br />

dispersant such as Thiotan S liq paste is essential<br />

to avoid precipitations in the dye bath. At the same<br />

time Thiotan S liq improves the cellulosic fi ber<br />

reserve towards the modifi ed basic dyes.<br />

With high dye concentrations only one bath two<br />

stage process is suitable.<br />

The reserves of the PAC fi ber to Direct or Indosol<br />

dyes depend on the substantivity of the individual<br />

dye. The dyes for application should be selected<br />

carefully. Further, the reserve decreases with<br />

increasingly acid pH value. The addition of cationic<br />

retarders increases staining of the acrylic fi bers.<br />

The addition of glauber’s salt required for one bath<br />

exhaustion of the direct dyes has a retarding effect<br />

on the cationic dyes and therefore, increases the<br />

tendency to staining of the cellulosic fi ber.<br />

Dyeing is carried out at pH values between 4<br />

and 5 to exclude any hydrolysis of the cationic dyes.<br />

This may cause problems with the solubility of the<br />

direct dyes. In the one bath two stage process, special<br />

attention must be paid to the dyeing conditions<br />

which could be unfavourable for the cationic dyes.<br />

Migration of the modifi ed basic dyes is possible at<br />

98°C in the presence of salt at a pH above 7. The pH<br />

should therefore, not rise above 6 in the second stage<br />

and the temperature not above 85°C. The presence<br />

of Thiotan S liq paste disperses any precipitations.<br />

Brilliant shades can only be obtained with<br />

reactive dyes on the CEL component. When using<br />

the Drimaren K dyes, the PAC component is dyed<br />

fi rst as usual and then the CEL component in a fresh<br />

bath with Drimaren K dyes by one of the usual<br />

processes. These processes have very little effect on<br />

the shade of the PAC dyeing. Finally, the goods are<br />

rinsed and washed off at 80°C with Lyocol OU liq<br />

and Ladipur RSK liq.<br />

When dyeing the opposite way round, i.e., when<br />

the reactive dyes are applied fi rst, they act as mordant<br />

for the cationic modifi ed basic dyes because of their<br />

sulpho groups. Severe staining and poorer fastness<br />

properties on the CEL component are the result. Hot<br />

dyeing reactive (Drimaren X/XN) cannot be used for<br />

cross dyeing because of the high amount of salt and<br />

alkali required. They lead to migration and change<br />

of shade of the basic dye on the PAC component. In<br />

reversed processes where CEL component is dyed<br />

fi rst, most basic dyes also show a mordant effect on<br />

the CEL component dyed with Drimaren X dyes.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> has developed a process which is based<br />

on the principle of blocking the sulpho groups of the<br />

reactive dyes by a treatment with Optifi x F liq. After<br />

this treatment the PAC component is cross dyed<br />

with modifi ed basic dyes.<br />

An intermediate fi xation treatment with Optifi x<br />

F liq achieves two things:<br />

a) The mordanting effect is almost completely<br />

prevented, because the strongly anionic reactive<br />

dyes on the CEL fi ber surface are neutralized<br />

by the cationic Optifi x F liq, so that afterwards<br />

when PAC component is dyed, the basic dye can<br />

no longer be adsorbed on the CEL component.<br />

b) Treatment with Optifi x F liq also binds a portion<br />

of the unfi xed reactive dye, thus obtaining better<br />

yield and even at this point, nearly attaining the<br />

desired wet fastness properties.<br />

The over dyeing of the PAC component also acts<br />

as a soaping bath so that the laborious conventional<br />

soaping treatment to remove the unfi xed and<br />

hydrolyzed reactive dye becomes unnecessary.<br />

The reserve procedure also permits shading of<br />

the PAC component, which as a rule involves fewer<br />

problems than shading the CEL component.

coldblack ® : Sun Reflector –<br />

Dark colours heat up stronger when exposed to<br />

direct sunlight compared to light colours. Many<br />

textiles worn in the summer time or exposed to the<br />

sun offer poor protection from damaging UV rays.<br />

In order to prevent this from occuring, we have<br />

come up with cold black process.<br />

coldblack ® UV Protector<br />

combines two functions in one special<br />

fi nishing technology for textiles:<br />

– Sun Refl ector<br />

– UV Protector<br />

Effective Heat Management<br />

Light coloured textiles refl ect both visible and<br />

invisible rays of sunlight, meaning both heat and<br />

light.<br />

Dark coloured textiles absorb both types of rays<br />

and therefore, absorb heat.<br />

coldblack ® reduces this absorption of heat rays<br />

particularly in the case of darker colours and in<br />

all types of textiles.<br />

The result is tangibly better heat management.<br />

Without coldblack ®<br />

Dark textiles without coldblack ® absorb heat.<br />

With coldblack ®<br />

Dark textiles with coldblack ® refl ect heat.<br />

Reliable Protection from UV Rays<br />

Many textiles worn in the summer time or exposed<br />

to the sun offer poor protection from damaging UV<br />

rays.<br />

The coldblack ® technology guarantees a minimum<br />

UPF 30+ protection when applied to any textile** in<br />

any colour without affecting the look or feel of the<br />

product.<br />

The UV protection factor (UPF) gives an indication<br />

of how much longer someone using coldblack ®<br />

textiles can remain in the sun without incurring any<br />

skin damage. The calculations were based on the socalled<br />

self-protection time of the skin, which varies<br />

according to individual skin type.<br />

** Important: The UPF value can vary depending on structure,<br />

thickness and material. It relates to closed textile surfaces.<br />

For this reason, the UPF factor needs to be determined<br />

on the different textiles. From a minimum of UPF 30+,<br />

coldblack ® conformity is guaranteed.<br />

Skin Types with varying Degrees of Self-protection<br />

Skin Description Sunburn risk in high<br />

type summer midday after<br />

I Pale skin with freckles<br />

blonde or red hair<br />

approx. 5 to 10 minutes<br />

II Pale skin and blonde hair<br />

blue or green eyes<br />

approx. 10 to 20 minutes<br />

III Medium skin dark hair<br />

and brown eyes<br />

approx. 20 to 30 minutes<br />

IV Naturally dark skin black<br />

or dark hair brown eyes<br />

approx. 40 minutes<br />

coldblack ® - Practical examples<br />

Skin Protection with coldblack ® textiles<br />

type (UPF 30+)UPF x self-protection of skin<br />

I 150 to 300 minutes = 2.5 h to 5 h until skin reddens<br />

II 300 to 600 minutes = 5 h to 10 h until skin reddens<br />

III 600 to 900 minutes = 10 h to 15 h until skin reddens<br />

IV 1200 minutes = 20 h until skin reddens<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong> 7

8<br />

textile<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

coldblack ® -Reliable Protection from UV Rays<br />

Without coldblack ®<br />

Light coloured textiles without Coldblack ® allow<br />

UV-rays to penetrate<br />

With coldblack ®<br />

Light coloured textiles with coldblack ® signifi cantly<br />

reduce UV-rays from penetration<br />

Examples for UV Protection measures and their<br />

UV Protection factors<br />

UV protection UV protection<br />

measures<br />

Shade under a parasol<br />

factor<br />

without special UV protection appox. 5<br />

Shade under a tree approx. 10<br />

Light cotton clothing<br />

Sun cream with correct<br />

approx. 10<br />

application<br />

Thick cotton clothing<br />

0 to 30<br />

without coldblack ® approx. 20+<br />

Textiles with coldblack ® minimum 30+<br />

Many textiles equipped with coldblack ® demonstrate a<br />

UV protection factor of over UPF 50.<br />

coldblack ® - Advantages<br />

Optimal Protection from Heating-up due to<br />

Sunlight<br />

Because textiles fi nished with<br />

coldblack ® heatup less in all<br />

colours compared with material<br />

without a coldblack ® fi nish.<br />

Textiles stay Cool to the Touch<br />

When applied to clothing, this<br />

means that the wearer perspires<br />

less, feels better and is capable of<br />

greater performance.<br />

Reliable protection from UV rays (minimum<br />

UPF 30+)<br />

– Protection from UV-A rays and<br />

UV-B rays.<br />

– UV-A rays accelerate the aging<br />

of the skin.<br />

– UV-B rays cause a pigment<br />

change that result in long term browning. Without<br />

effective UPF protection (Ultraviolet Protection<br />

Factor), aggressive oxygen molecules are released<br />

which cause sunburn or which can lead to the<br />

formation of melanoma.<br />

“bluesign ® Approved”<br />

Components<br />

The coldblack ®<br />

fi nishing only contains<br />

“bluesign approved”<br />

components.<br />

“bluesign approved” components are as low as<br />

possible in harmful substances, making them<br />

benign to mankind and the environment and<br />

encouraging the economical and ecological use<br />

of resources in the production process.<br />

Coldblack ® – Advantages at a Glance<br />

Less sweat.<br />

Increased concentration.<br />

Higher performance.<br />

Greater comfort.<br />

Increased endurance.<br />

Minimum UPF 30+.<br />

No adverse effect on looks, feel or breathability.<br />

Function lasts through numerous washing and<br />

cleaning processes.<br />

Finish comprises “bluesign approved”<br />

components.<br />

Following are the wide range of applications and<br />

lifestyle categories, which provide added comfort<br />

due to coldblack ® :<br />

outdoor<br />

bike<br />

sportswear<br />

workwear<br />

uniforms<br />

merchandising<br />

tents<br />


In Love with Fashion<br />

Dyestuff range: Foron ® S-WF<br />

Today’s high consumer quality<br />

awareness in an ever so competitive<br />

textile environment, need special products<br />

to meet the ever growing demands.<br />

Especially in terms of trendy wash and<br />

wear, easy care and soft touch products<br />

(with the increasing use of micro-fi ber<br />

articles), highest levels of colour fastness<br />

are required. With the Foron ® S-WF<br />

dyestuffs, an evolution of the Foron ® Stype<br />

disperse dyes (pioneered by us in<br />

the 1950’s when still operating under the<br />

former Sandoz name), we do not only<br />

meet these requirements, but today can<br />

offer a conclusive range of dyestuffs,<br />

which are able to cover the full scope<br />

of fashion shades. Foron ® S-WF with its<br />

market leading colour fastness levels and<br />

highest sublimation fastness enhances<br />

today’s textile products in the apparel,<br />

workwear and sportswear segments, whilst<br />

giving textile producers state-of-theart<br />

process and environmental security.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s especially developed products<br />

and processes for colourfast Polyester<br />

include:<br />

A complete range of colourfast<br />

dyestuffs; Foron ® SWF gives excellent<br />

wet-fastness levels, with highest<br />

sublimation fastness.<br />

The necessary auxiliaries needed for<br />

reproducible and reliable dyeing e.g.<br />

Dispersing agent Lyocol ® RDN liquid<br />

and Acid buffer Opticid ® PSD liquid.<br />

Recommended pre-treatment, dyeing<br />

and after-treatment processes in<br />

exhaust and continuous dyeing.<br />

Dyestuff criteria for high wet-fastness<br />

polyester and blends:<br />

High operational reliability<br />

Very good dispersion stability<br />

High to very high sublimation<br />

fastnesses for yarns and tops<br />

High stability in further processing<br />

steps (e.g. reactive dyeing)<br />

Processing requirements (e.g. for postsetting)<br />

Full scope of elements to cover fashion<br />

shades<br />

Foron ® Golden Yellow S-WF<br />

0.08% 0.27% 0.80% 2.40%<br />

Foron ® Red S-WF<br />

0.19% 0.60% 1.80% 5.40%<br />

Foron ® Rubine S-WF<br />

0.40% 0.95% 2.84% 8.52%<br />

Foron ® Brilliant Yellow S-WF<br />

0.14% 0.44% 1.32% 4.00%<br />

Foron ® Scarlet S-WF<br />

0.09% 0.31% 0.92% 2.76%<br />

Properties<br />

The Foron ® S-WF dyes are elements with<br />

the following special properties:<br />

Highest sublimation fastness, therefore,<br />

ideal range for yarn dyeing as well as<br />

for continuous applications (Thermosol<br />

dyeing) and for printing<br />

Highest wet fastness level after postsetting<br />

(mode of action: increase of<br />

water solubility in alkaline fastness<br />

testing liquors, but keeping the<br />

chromophore intact)<br />

Easy clearable (high alkaline solubility,<br />

therefore, no reductive clearing<br />

necessary for articles with little to<br />

moderate staining like e.g. PES/CEL<br />

blends; reductive clearing is, however,<br />

necessary for articles with heavy<br />

staining like blends with Spandex ® +,<br />

Lycra ® +, XLA ® +etc.)<br />

Foron ® Violet S-WF<br />

textile<br />

0.09% 0.32% 0.95% 2.85%<br />

Foron ® Cyanine S-WF<br />

0.13% 0.32% 0.97% 2.90%<br />

Foron ® Blue S-WF<br />

0.10% 0.21% 0.63% 1.90%<br />

Foron ® Navy S-WF<br />

0.09% 0.35% 1.06% 3.18%<br />

Foron ® Black S-WF<br />

0.12% 0.39% 1.18% 3.54%<br />

Scope of Application<br />

The Foron ® S-WF dyes are recommended<br />

for the following applications:<br />

Exhaust dyeing of PES/CEL (SWIFT<br />

exhaust process), PES/XLA, PES/<br />

CEL/XLA ® + and PES articles that are<br />

being post-set (knitwear) and/or that<br />

require above average wet fastness<br />

(sportswear)<br />

Continuous dyeing of PES/CEL<br />

(SWIFT continue process), PES/CEL/<br />

XLA ® + and PES articles<br />

Printing of PES, PES/XLA ® + and PES/<br />

PUE articles<br />

® + XLA is an elastic polyethylene fiber and is a<br />

trade mark of DOW Chemicals.<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


10<br />

title textile<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Some Facts about Light<br />

Fastness<br />

Textile Dyes and Pigments used in the industry<br />

vary to a great extent in terms of their<br />

resistance to light sources and this phenomenon<br />

is called as ‘Light-fastness of Textiles’.<br />

Sunlight materials electromagnetic radiations<br />

of several wavelengths. Visible range of spectrum<br />

(400 - 700 nm), ultraviolet (300 - 400 nm) and infra<br />

red (700 - 1400 nm) become the main constituents<br />

which reach to the earth’s surface.<br />

<strong>Colour</strong>ed materials like Textile, Leather and<br />

Paper when subjected to the photons generated from<br />

the sunlight have tendency to destroy the colouring<br />

constituents of dyes and pigments. Further prolonged<br />

exposure may even cause destruction to the substrate<br />

itself. Partial destruction of the colouring material<br />

in dyes and pigment is known as fading. The other<br />

detrimental effect could be change of tone or change<br />

of brilliance of the colour.<br />

A consumer when buys an apparel is attracted<br />

to the colours and if this colour is altering / fading<br />

during usage or laundering, the consumer gets<br />

frustrated, so it is our responsibility to safeguard and<br />

guide the processor about the fading behavior of a<br />

dye/pigment applied on the substrate.<br />

There are many factors infl uencing the light<br />

fastness behavior.<br />

Substrate and their diffusion properties.<br />

Substrate preparation.<br />

Chemical nature of the fi ber.<br />

Method of the application.<br />

Delusterants in the substrate.<br />

Finishing chemicals applied.<br />

Usage of the article.<br />

Dye-fi xers used.<br />

Choice of colours and their combination.<br />

Perspiration and exposure to light.<br />

Prolonged exposure to light.<br />

Oxidative or reductive nature of dye fading<br />

reaction.<br />

Unfortunately, the tag labels on articles do give<br />

wash instruction but the guidance and sustainability<br />

of the article to multiple exposures to light are not<br />

so popular. There are hardly any indicators to guide<br />

the consumer regarding the resistance of the article<br />

towards sunlight fading.<br />

Uncontrollable Factors<br />

Content of UV amount in the sunlight: As more<br />

is the UV component more photons of their light<br />

and more will be the effect on colour with respect<br />

to fading.<br />

The intensity of temperature from the sunlight<br />

falling on the article.<br />

Relative Humidty<br />

Higher the humidity, higher could be fading.<br />

This factor has impact on the wet-light fastness<br />

and hence fading in varying humid environments<br />

come into the picture.<br />

Atmospheric contaminations.<br />

Amount and quality of perspiration also play a<br />

crucial role in deciding the amount of fading.<br />

Laundering pattern.<br />

Repeated laundering and exposure to sunlight<br />

or a single exposure to sunlight also affects the<br />

degree of fading.<br />

Some Guidelines<br />

Higher the depth, better the light fastness.<br />

Only right choice of colours can help in getting<br />

better light fastness and any corrective actions<br />

would fail to improve the light fastness.<br />

Right choice of textile chemicals to ensure that<br />

no detrimental effect of them on the light fastness<br />

of dyed articles occur.<br />

When use of more than one colour is made in<br />

making a shade, the fi nal light fastness of the<br />

article will be based on the lowest light fastness<br />

constituent of the dye in the recipe. This is more<br />

important when we want to ensure on-tone<br />

behavior of fading after exposure to light (one<br />

component fading to smaller extent will give a<br />

further ugly appearance to the shade than one<br />

with on-tone fading).

leather<br />

New NMP-free Aqualen ® Tops<br />

State-of-the-art technology for todays’ leather<br />

fi nishing is based on aqueous products. <strong>Clariant</strong>’s<br />

efforts to reduce VOC in fi nishing products have led<br />

to a new solution within the Aqualen ® Top Coat range.<br />

Great variety of gloss levels can be reached<br />

by combining Aqualen ® Top DC-2050 (dull) and<br />

Aqualen ® Top GC-2051 (glossy). This new generation<br />

of easy to handle top coats are distinguished by a<br />

perfect balance of high performance and excellent<br />

aesthetics. Most different looks and feels can<br />

be generated using this product mix alone or in<br />

combination with other ecologically-friendly<br />

Aqualen ® /Melio ® Tops and/or the versatile Melio®<br />

WF feel additive range. This enables the fi nisher<br />

to cover a wide range of leather articles. The still<br />

widely used nitro/emulsion lacquer product can<br />

be partly replaced – a further step towards VOC<br />

reduction in leather fi nishing.<br />

Especially developed for high gloss shoe upper<br />

leathers is Aqualen ® Top GC-2030.A. Leathers<br />

top coated with Aqualen ® Top GC-2030.A are<br />

distinguished by a very natural and casein-like<br />

look and surface feel together with high wet rub<br />

properties. Additionally, Aqualen ® by <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

Top GC-2031 is<br />

suitable for shoe upper leathers and for high gloss<br />

fancy and upholstery leathers as well, where even<br />

higher physicals are requested. Both products are<br />

plateable at high temperatures and show a very good<br />

intercoat adhesion together with very good milling<br />

behavior.<br />

12 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

For aqueous patent leather imitations <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

offers the new Aqualen ® Top LN.A. This new<br />

ecological top coat product is developed to meet<br />

highest requirements of both, gloss level and<br />

physicals. Leathers fi nished with Aqualen ® Top<br />

LN.A, an aqueous, modifi ed, aliphatic polyurethane<br />

dispersion, show beautiful brilliance and depth of<br />

gloss. The application can be done either by reverse<br />

roller coater or by spraying technology. This new<br />

and really helpful characteristic offers quite a lot of<br />

options to the fi nisher.<br />

Aqualen ® Tops:<br />

The ecological solution for<br />

perfect leather finishing

Tanicor ® OS-IN p<br />

“Low Free-Formaldehyde”<br />

Replacement Syntan<br />

Features<br />

Low in “Free-Formaldehyde” content<br />

Versatile replacement syntan suitable for<br />

all type of leather<br />

Good fullness coupled with grain<br />

tightness<br />

Uniform Dyeability<br />

Can be used for dark and pastel shades as<br />

well.<br />

Leather traded with Tanicor ® OS-IN p<br />

can pass various specifi cations of “low-freeformaldehyde”<br />

limits when tested by DIN<br />

53315.<br />

leather<br />

Tanicor ® OS-IN p can also be used with<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s other “Low Free-Formaldehyde”<br />

products to produce various leather articles.<br />

For the complete list of <strong>Clariant</strong>’s “Low Free-<br />

Formaldehyde” products, please refer our<br />

product guide.<br />

Our technical service team would be happy<br />

to be at your service for the development of<br />

“Low Free-Formaldehyde” systems, with<br />

Tanicor ® OS-IN p.<br />

Suggested usage of Tanicor ® OS-IN p in<br />

retannage:<br />

1. For Upper Leathers : 6 to 10%<br />

2. For Clothing Nappa : 4 to 6%<br />

3. For Cow Bag Leather : 3 to 5%<br />

Formaldehyde as a raw material is widely<br />

used in the manufacture of leather chemicals<br />

for condensation of various monomers like<br />

phenol, naphthalene, urea, etc.<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


Strength from the Inner Core<br />

Dry strength solutions by <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

Growing use of Recycled Fiber<br />

large quantity of waste paper and board<br />

A is recycled, providing a relatively<br />

cheap source of cellulosic fi ber raw<br />

material for papermaking. Unfortunately,<br />

the quality of fi ber in wastepaper is<br />

deteriorating, due to increased recycling,<br />

and the dry strength of a paper sheet<br />

inevitably suffers as a consequence.<br />

Dry Strength Additives needed<br />

Dry strength additives have been available<br />

in the paper industry for many years.<br />

Natural polymers such as starch, either in<br />

its native or chemically modifi ed form, have<br />

been employed relatively successfully, due<br />

to their availability and low cost.<br />

Paper makers around the world want<br />

to raise the standards associated with dry<br />

strength, closer to the values achieved with<br />

virgin fi ber. At the same time, they work at<br />

lowering the basis weight of a paper sheet,<br />

whilst maintaining an acceptable level of<br />

strength, aiming at major cost benefi ts<br />

and reducing of the impact of high energy<br />

prices.<br />

Starch has its Drawbacks<br />

There has been a temptation to add<br />

excessively high amounts of starch<br />

because, although low in cost, the strength<br />

performance of starch is between 5 and<br />

10 times less than a synthetic dry strength<br />

polymer, on a dry basis. Starch, even in<br />

its cationized form, has a limited affi nity<br />

for paper fi bers and large quantities of<br />

solubilized material remain in the water<br />

circuits of the paper machine, where they<br />

act as nutrients for bacteria and interfere<br />

with the affi nity of other paper making<br />

additives. In the tissue industry, the rigidity<br />

of starch polymers has a negative infl uence<br />

on softness and dusting.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Cationic Polymers Solution<br />

Achim Kohler (<strong>Clariant</strong>, Germany)<br />

remembers: “Back in 2004/2005, we<br />

identifi ed the growing problems with the<br />

fi ber quality of the waste paper. We therefore<br />

decided to address the customers’ needs<br />

for low cationic, highly concentrated and<br />

effi cient products with good absorption. In<br />

particular, the low cationic charge of the<br />

new products developed was intended to<br />

prevent the fi ber charge from fl ipping to<br />

cationic from anionic.”<br />

Newborn in the Range, Cartabond ® 0701E<br />

liquid<br />

The most recently developed product of<br />

the range, Cartabond 0701E liquid, is a<br />

dry strength additive for stock application<br />

under neutral to alkaline paper making<br />

conditions. It is suitable for all paper and<br />

board grades but especially benefi cial where<br />

recycled fi ber is the main raw material.<br />

Typical examples are brown packaging<br />

papers manufactured from old corrugated<br />

containers (OCC), tissue produced by<br />

fully bleached virgin or recycled fi bers.<br />

All strength parameters can be improved,<br />

including burst, tensile, SCT and CMT.<br />

paper<br />

Mode of Action<br />

A combination of ionic and hydrogen<br />

bonding is responsible for the superior<br />

strength. Starch relies almost entirely on<br />

hydrogen bonding for strength development<br />

but ionic bonding, which is up to fi ve times<br />

stronger, allows enhanced performance.<br />

In addition, Cartabond 0701E liquid has<br />

strong affi nity for cellulosic fi bers and<br />

is, therefore, perfectly suited to wet-end<br />

application.<br />

Ahead of the Trend, Indian Product<br />

Cartabond SR 100 liquid<br />

Cartabond SR 100 liquid is a local<br />

alternative to Cartabond 0701E liquid<br />

available in India. It is a liquid dry strength<br />

resin offering improved tensile strength,<br />

stiffness and burst factor and is specifi cally<br />

recommended for stiffness improvement in<br />

copier paper as well as coated paperboards.<br />

It can also replace starch, whilst unlike<br />

starch, Cartabond SR 100 liquid is not<br />

susceptible to microbial attack, thereby<br />

eliminating the need for preservatives as<br />

well as environmental concerns.<br />

Back in 2004, Indian papermakers were<br />

actually a bit in advance in the demand for<br />

an alternative to strarch. Cartabond SR 100<br />

liquid was developed to answer the need. As<br />

Rajinikanth Prasad (<strong>Clariant</strong>, India) recalls:<br />

“we developed a liquid form for a specifi c<br />

customer – which happened to be a clear<br />

advantage for our local customers”!<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong> 15

paper<br />

Cartacoat ® RM Rheology Modifiers<br />

16 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

More than just Rheology Modifers<br />

P<br />

roducing coated paper and board for<br />

end-products with a high quality level<br />

needs chemicals that can really do the job.<br />

Cartacoat RM is an exclusive range of rheology<br />

modifers, which allows control of high shear and<br />

low shear viscosity and water retention to achieve<br />

superior runability and optimum coating colour<br />

rheology. Cartacoat RM products can be used for<br />

instance for blade coating or MSP applications with<br />

all kind of paper and board grades.<br />

The Cartacoat RM series combines the features<br />

expected from such products, whilst allowing<br />

substantial savings in your production costs.<br />

Optimized Chemistry<br />

The thickening mechanism of Cartacoat RM<br />

rheology modifiers, as shown in the illustration<br />

below, comprises of two steps:<br />

Expansion of macro-chains, due to high<br />

electrostatic charge repulsion<br />

Inter-molecular attraction facilitates formation<br />

of a 3-D network<br />

Carbon group<br />

Hydrophobic group<br />

“Less-is-More” effect<br />

Cartacoat RM products replace conventional<br />

synthetic rheology modifiers with lower blade<br />

pressure, allowing increased coater speed.<br />

Cartacoat RM products make it possible to<br />

increase the dry solid content of the coating<br />

colour, with a positive effect on optical and<br />

printing properties.<br />

Cartacoat RM products can replace CMC<br />

partially or totally, offering the possibility to increase<br />

the amount of PVOH or starch as an OBA<br />

carrier, in order to improve whiteness.<br />

Signifcant Benefits for your System<br />

Up to 30 % cost savings in thickener system<br />

Improved coating colours and runability<br />

- Lower dosage needed to reach the targeted<br />

Brookfield viscosity<br />

- Better high shear profile<br />

- Improved water retention at lower dosage<br />

Improved paper and print quality<br />

- Positive effect on paper gloss<br />

- Slightly improved smoothness<br />

- Other properties equal (mottling, ink<br />

absorption and surface strength)<br />

The effect of<br />

Cartacoat RM<br />

products on<br />

viscosity and shear<br />

rates can be seen<br />

on the graph at the<br />


Complete Range for Every Specific Need<br />

Cartacoat RM 8 liquid<br />

Cartacoat RM 8 liquid is a water retention aid for<br />

paper and board coating colour with small effect on<br />

low shear and high shear viscosity. Cartacoat RM<br />

8 liquid improves the paper properties by reducing<br />

water penetration into the base sheet. Cartacoat RM<br />

8 liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.<br />

Cartacoat RM 12 liquid<br />

Cartacoat RM 12 liquid allows good water retention<br />

and increases both low and high shear viscosity.<br />

Cartacoat RM 15 liquid<br />

Cartacoat RM 15 liquid is especially suitable in<br />

the manufacturing of coated board and packaging<br />

paper, offering a good balance between Brookfield<br />

viscosity and water retention. Cartacoat RM 15<br />

liquid is FDA and BfR compliant.<br />

Cartacoat RM 20 liquid<br />

Cartacoat RM 20 liquid shows optimal high shear<br />

properties with high Brookfield viscosity. Small<br />

dosing levels are needed. Cartacoat RM 20 liquid<br />

has low influence on high shear viscosity and low<br />

blade pressure.<br />

Dynamic Water Retention<br />

DT coater<br />

World-class Laboratory Facilities<br />

From laboratory studies to pilot coating trial<br />

to mill trial, our laboratory facilities in France<br />

offer high-end equipment and expertise.<br />

Low shear viscosity High shear viscosity Water retention Dosing levels (*)<br />

Cartacoat RM 8 ( ) 0.5 – 2.0<br />

Cartacoat RM 12 0.1 – 1.0<br />

Cartacoat RM 15 0.2 – 1.5<br />

Cartacoat RM 20 0.05 – 1.0<br />

= high influence<br />

(*) parts per 100 parts pigments as it is<br />

= medium influence = some influence = no influence<br />

ACAV<br />

ÅA-GWR<br />

paper<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


Result of Assessment of Dye / Processing aid for the use in EKO<br />

Sustainable Textile Standard (GOTS system)<br />

Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved<br />

approval Yes / No<br />

Ceranine SWPI liq 25/06/2007 Yes<br />

Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq 25/06/2007 Yes<br />

Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p 13/03/2007 Yes<br />

Sirrix 2 UD. IN liq 13/08/2007 Yes<br />

Drimaren Navy X-GN. IN 06/09/2007 Yes<br />

Drimaren Red X-6 BN p 06/09/2007 Yes<br />

Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p 06/09/2007 Yes<br />

Leonil UH liq 06/09/2007 Yes<br />

Sirrix Antox IN liq 06/09/2007 Yes<br />

Imacol C2G.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Sirrix N liq c 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Ceraperm K.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Stabilizer AWN.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Sirrix SB.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Appretan ECO liq 12/10/2007 Yes<br />

Imerol XN.IN liq 04/08/2007 Yes<br />

Rintofix Thickener CA liq 13/11/2007 Yes<br />

Revatol S.IN p 13/11/2007 Yes<br />

Sirrix N liq 13/11/2007 Yes<br />

Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq 13/11/2007 Yes<br />

Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS 14/12/2007 Yes<br />

Printofix Binder ITL liq 14/12/2007 Yes<br />

Hostapal DTC. IN liq<br />

Formerly (Sandopan<br />

DTC. IN liq)<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Global Organic Textile Standard<br />

The latest version of the Global<br />

Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)<br />

launched in June, sees some signifi cant<br />

changes for the wet processors of organic<br />

textiles. The changes note as follows:<br />

Optical brighteners are now allowed<br />

to be used, allowing all retailers to<br />

produce organic cotton products in a<br />

bright white.<br />

Quaternary ammonium compounds –<br />

which are known to improve the colour<br />

fastness of dyed goods - are prohibited<br />

except for auxilaries used during the<br />

dyeing process, provided they meet all<br />

other GOTS criteria.<br />

Heavy metals are prohibited with a<br />

specifi c exception for copper metal<br />

Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved<br />

approval Yes / No<br />

Imerol NLF. IN liq [ Formerly<br />

(Sandoclean NLF. IN liq) ]<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Leomin PNLI liq [ Formerly<br />

(Sandosoft PNLI liq) ]<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ceralube JNF. IN liq<br />

Formerly (Sandolube<br />

JNF. IN liq)<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ceralube HD. IN liq<br />

Formerly (Sandolube<br />

HD. IN liq)<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Imerol MWP liq c [ Formerly<br />

(Sandoclean MWP liq c) ]<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ladipur SN liq [ Formerly<br />

(Sandopur SN liq) ]<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Optisul HSI liq<br />

Formerly (Sandozol HSI liq)<br />

22/01/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Stabilizer SIFA. IN lq 11/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Imerol SR liq 11/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Stabilizer SOF. IN liq 11/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq<br />

Formerly (Diresul Black<br />

RDT liq)<br />

11/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Drimaren Blue HF-2B cdg 12/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ladipur R3C. IN ip liq 12/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Drimaren Navy CL-R p 12/02/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Arkofil PVS p 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Arkofil S 100 p 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

complex dyes to produce blue, green<br />

and turquoise shades to a depth of 5%<br />

owf.<br />

The above clauses are to be reviewed<br />

in two years from date of adoption. If,<br />

at that time, copper complex dyes are<br />

no longer permitted this would cause a<br />

problem for dyers producing the shades<br />

mentioned and would therefore limit<br />

the shades available for the retailers of<br />

organic products. Another change of note<br />

is that acceptable levels of formaldehyde<br />

on organic textiles have been reduced<br />

from 20 mg/kg to 16 mg/kg in line with<br />

Japanese law.<br />

There is also a clause not to allow<br />

products with the following risk phrases:<br />

GOTS approved list<br />

Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved<br />

approval Yes / No<br />

Ceraperm AQUA liq 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Drimaren Red CL BL 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Drimaren Red CL-B p 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Drimaren Yellow CL-R p 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ladiquest DWA liq 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Leomin SFC liq 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Printofix Navy R-B 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Printofix Violet R-B 13/03/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Printofix Black R-NG liq 13/11/2007 Yes<br />

Printofix Blue R-BN 20/03/2007 Yes<br />

Ceraperm TSLF liq 11/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ceraperm 3P liq hc 11/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Reductor D. IN p 11/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Stabilizer 3Z liq 11/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Sirrix SAI liq c 12/06/3008 Yes<br />

Hostalux ETB. IN liq 17/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Leucophor BMF. IN liq 17/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Leucophor BMB. IN liq 17/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Leucophor BFB. IN liq 17/06/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Appretan PUL liq 29/07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Ceraperm MN liq 29/07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Mercerol QWNI. IN liq 29/07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Mercerol RWLF liq 29/07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Sirrix CPA liq 29//07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

Sirrix USB liq 29/07/<strong>2008</strong> Yes<br />

R50, very toxic to aquatic organisms;<br />

R51, toxic to aquatic organisms; R52,<br />

harmful to aquatic organism; R53, may<br />

cause long term adverse effects in the<br />

aquatic environment. However, GOTS<br />

states that as R51-R53 may lead to a loss<br />

in dyeing quality, the use of these will<br />

be optional until the next revision of the<br />

standard. This is a confusing situation that<br />

may leave many dyers unclear about the<br />

dyes and chemicals that can be used; it<br />

is recommended that in the certifi cation<br />

process these parameters should be<br />

controlled, documented and reported.<br />

source: www.colourclick.org;<br />

GOTS v 2.0 is available at:<br />

www.global-standard.org<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong> 19

20<br />

new arrivals<br />

Additions in Local Range Global<br />

Printofix ® Red T-B<br />

Bright Red Dispersion from<br />

Global Printofix Range<br />

Product Performance<br />

Highly concentrated pigment.<br />

Good dispersion stability even below 0°C.<br />

Very little infl uence on viscosity of<br />

synthetic thickener.<br />

High dry cleaning fastness.<br />

High thermal stability.<br />

Suitable for discharge printing.<br />

Suitable for all types of printing application<br />

i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent<br />

base.<br />

Does not contribute in gelling of printing<br />

paste.<br />

Printofix ® Yellow T-C<br />

Lemon Yellow Dispersion from<br />

Global Printofix Range.<br />

Product Performance<br />

Bright lemon yellow shade.<br />

High pigment concentration.<br />

Very little infl uence on viscosity of<br />

synthetic thickener.<br />

High dry cleaning fastness.<br />

High thermal stability.<br />

Suitable for discharge printing.<br />

Suitable for all types of printing application<br />

i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent<br />

base.<br />

Does not contribute in gelling of printing<br />

paste.<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Foron ® Scarlet S-WF<br />

High wet fast disperse dye<br />

for red and scarlet shades<br />

suitable for dyeing polyester<br />

and its blends.<br />

Product Performance<br />

High wet fastness. Low staining on<br />

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric.<br />

Can be applied in exhaust, printing and<br />

continuous application.<br />

Main element for wet fast fi re shade in<br />

combination with Foron Brilliant Yellow<br />

S-WF, Foron Golden Yellow S-WF, and<br />

Foron Red S-WF.<br />

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C.<br />

Good dispersing and leveling properties.<br />

Foron ® Violet S-WF<br />

High wet fast disperse dye<br />

for violet shades suitable<br />

for dyeing polyester and its<br />

blends.<br />

Product Performance<br />

High wet fastness. Low staining on<br />

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric.<br />

Can be applied in exhaust, printing and<br />

continuous application.<br />

Main element for wet fast violet and purple<br />

shade in combination with Foron Blue<br />

S-WF and Foron Rubine S-WF.<br />

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C.<br />

Good dispersing and leveling properties.<br />

Launches<br />

Afilan ® PSE liquid<br />

Afi lan ® PSE liq. is a spin fi nish<br />

suitable for polyamide 6 and 6.6 high<br />

tenacity industrial yarns for example<br />

tyre-cord, tarpaulins, seat belts,<br />

conveyer belts etc. Afi lan PSE liq.<br />

is a proprietory blend of heat stable<br />

lubricants, emulsifi ers and antistats.<br />

Is usually applied as an aqueous<br />

solution (e.g. 15-25 %) with the<br />

usual devices.<br />

Is a very thermostable spin<br />

fi nish.<br />

Forms very low smoke and shows<br />

nearly no deposits on the godets.<br />

Runs well in drawing processes<br />

and has a good fi ber/fi ber<br />

cohesion.<br />

Owns excellent wetting and<br />

spreading properties.<br />

Afilan ® ONE liq<br />

Easy applicable fi ber fi nish<br />

and lubricant for use in fi ber<br />

manufacturing of polysulfonamide<br />

and aramide fi bers.<br />

Excellent lubricating properties.<br />

Good antistatic properties.<br />

Improves fi ber/fi ber cohesion and<br />

reduces fi ber/metal friction.<br />

Excellent wetting properties.<br />

Good thermostability.<br />

Each component of this<br />

formulation is listed in one or<br />

several parts of 21.CFR.170-199<br />


Foron ® Black AS-3LF<br />

New disperse black Dyestuff for high-fast<br />

applications.<br />

High light-fast and hot-light-fast black<br />

disperse dyestuff.<br />

High strength (30%<br />

stronger than Foron Black<br />

AS-LF) and build-up.<br />

Neutral shade under different light<br />

sources (D65/TL84/A).<br />

Low colour fading post exposure.<br />

Suitable for all commonly required<br />

automotive light-fastness standards.<br />

Excellent sublimation fastness upto<br />

180°C/30sec.<br />

Very good combinability with UVabsorbers<br />

(Fadex ® ).<br />

Suitable as base element for Coldblack ®<br />

applications.<br />

Foron ® Dark Blue S-WF<br />

New disperse blue dyestuff for high wetfast<br />

applications.<br />

High wet-fast dark blue disperse<br />

dyestuff.<br />

Excellent build-up.<br />

Neutral (greenish) shade .<br />

No reddish fl are under artifi cial light<br />

sources (TL84/CWF).<br />

Excellent cotton reserve.<br />

Good clearability above pH 9.<br />

Leading sublimation fastness upto<br />

210°C/30sec., (rating 4.9 GS).<br />

Eganal ® PLM liquid<br />

New dyeing assistant for exhaust dyeing<br />

of polyester and its blends with cellulosic<br />

fi bers injets and package dyeing machines<br />

under HT conditions.<br />

Improves dispersion stability of the<br />

dyes in the bath.<br />

Ensures good penetration and increased<br />

colour yield.<br />

Improves coverage of materials with<br />

different affi nity.<br />

Allows to reduce the dyeing time and/<br />

or the dyeing temperature.<br />

Improves the reservation of the<br />

cellulosic part by dyeing polyester/<br />

cellulose blends.<br />

Improves the in-out levelness in<br />

package dyeing mac hines.<br />

Is suitable for levelling and partial<br />

stripping of faulty dyeings.<br />

Does not affect the wet fastnesses and<br />

has no or minimal effect on the usual<br />

light fastness.<br />

Does not develop an unpleasant odor<br />

during dyeing or drying.<br />

Is non foaming.<br />

Arkofix ® ELF liq conc<br />

Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross<br />

linking agent for the easy care fi nishing of<br />

textiles of cellulosic fi bers and their blends<br />

with synthetic fi bers.<br />

Has a free formaldehyde content below<br />

0.1 %.<br />

Produces particularly low formaldehyde<br />

fi nishing effects. Meets the requirements<br />

of consumer labels such as Eco-Tex<br />

Standard 100 for textiles worn next to<br />

the skin (

inside views<br />

Technical Conferences during the Last<br />

A.K. Prasad interacting with customers in Kolhapur.<br />

22 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

P. Gayatri being welcomed by Mr. A. Karmarkar at Kolhapur Meet.<br />

Technological Skills and Partnerships based on<br />

active dialogue with customers are key elements<br />

in the building of a successful relationship. Keeping<br />

this as the focus various technical conferences<br />

were held all over the country as narrated below:<br />

Surat, June 19, <strong>2008</strong><br />

At the conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Country<br />

Head of Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals<br />

Division, <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited,<br />

emphasized that <strong>Clariant</strong> has developed cost effective<br />

processing packages for polyester dyeing, printing<br />

and fi nishing chemicals. Ecological demands are<br />

also being catered to by our experts. <strong>Clariant</strong> has<br />

also introduced innovative fi nishes like moisture<br />

management, which gives polyester a comfortable<br />

feel, while imparting a protective fi nish against<br />

bacteria and fungi. Fluorocarbons from <strong>Clariant</strong>,<br />

speciality silicones and innovative prints like gold<br />

zari were elaborated upon during the conference.<br />

With the textile and apparel industry always on the<br />

lookout for new fi nishes and aesthetic values on the<br />

fabric, chemicals from <strong>Clariant</strong>’s range enhance<br />

both the physical appearance and performance of<br />

the end–product.<br />

Mr. Jochen Schmidt, Head, Business Line<br />

Functional Effects, <strong>Clariant</strong> International Ltd.,<br />

discussed in detail about the various products<br />

which can be offered to the processors in Surat. He<br />

highlighted on the ‘Emerging Trends in Finishing<br />

with <strong>Clariant</strong>’s Technology’, consisting of silicone<br />

based products like, concentrated specialty fi nishing<br />

agents which can be easily diluted and used as inhouse<br />

formulations to a high cost advantage. Mr.<br />

Schmidt also highlighted on the Technical Textiles<br />

and stressed on the concept of Flame Retardants and<br />

Stain Management.<br />

Kolkata, June 24, <strong>2008</strong><br />

An this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized<br />

that <strong>Clariant</strong> offers complete solutions for the<br />

processing of knits, garment washing, pigment<br />

printing and in jute related processing. He stressed<br />

on the benefi ts of Ecoswat Concept, highlighting the<br />

The Ludhiana Meet participants.

Detailed analysis in Bengaluru.<br />

Quarter<br />

use of right technology for optimization of energy,<br />

water and effl uent management. He explained the<br />

Black Magic Process, which is a bleaching concept<br />

involving process effi ciency with economy using<br />

ecological concept. He discussed in detail the<br />

garment washing process using biotechnology,<br />

wherein he enlightened the customers with the<br />

enzyme processing of the garments. He also<br />

highlighted the leaning of prossessors towards<br />

the latest trends in Technical Textiles offered by<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>, such as ultra low formaldehyde based<br />

binders, non-PFOA concept of fl uorocarbons. Effect<br />

labels from <strong>Clariant</strong> were also touched upon in the<br />

presentation.<br />

Ludhiana, July 31, <strong>2008</strong><br />

At this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad emphasized<br />

that <strong>Clariant</strong> offers complete solutions for the<br />

processing of knits, garment washing, enzyme<br />

technology, denim washing and related technologies.<br />

Drimaren Dyes were offered as a solution for all<br />

the problems related to the Dyeing technology. He<br />

Jochen Schmidt at the Surat Meet.<br />

Asis Patnaik at the Bengaluru Meet.<br />

discussed the problems related to effl uent treatment.<br />

He discussed in detail the garment washing process<br />

incorporating biotechnology, wherein he enlightened<br />

the customers with the enzyme processing of the<br />

garments. The new concepts such as Cold Black<br />

and Nanosphere by <strong>Clariant</strong> were discussed during<br />

the meet. Concept of REACH was explained to<br />

the customers. Mr. Prasad also discussed with the<br />

customers, the main reasons for price increase and<br />

ensured them that <strong>Clariant</strong> will always be with the<br />

customers in these diffi cult times.<br />

Kolhapur, August 4, <strong>2008</strong><br />

At this conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized<br />

that <strong>Clariant</strong> offers complete Solutions for Sizing<br />

and technologies related to entire processing of<br />

textile. He discussed about the new applications in<br />

sizing and also the GOTS approved products related<br />

to sizing. Technologies for continuous processings<br />

such as bleaching, dyeing and fi nishing were<br />

highlighted upon along with speciality fi nishes. He<br />

stressed that <strong>Clariant</strong> has a wide range of products<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


24<br />

inside views<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Anjani Prasad, Head - TLP Division, India, at<br />

the Ludhiana Meet.<br />

and depending upon consumer needs <strong>Clariant</strong> can<br />

offer cost and process effective recipes. <strong>Clariant</strong> is<br />

shortly launching GOTS certifi ed amylase Bactosol<br />

MTO for organic cotton processing. He discussed<br />

about the special areas of hydrophilic silicones<br />

and lubricants offered by <strong>Clariant</strong>. Specialty areas<br />

such as ultra low formaldehyde based binders; antimicrobial<br />

solutions and the non-PFOA concept of<br />

fl uorocarbons were discussed.<br />

Varanasi, August 22, <strong>2008</strong><br />

Here, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, said that <strong>Clariant</strong> has<br />

developed cost effective processing packages for<br />

dyeing, printing and fi nishing chemicals. <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

not only helps in setting-up the processes or the<br />

chemistry involved for textile processing, but<br />

also updates its customers on the “how-to-doit”<br />

ecologically, economically, effi ciently and in<br />

an environment friendly manner. He stressed on<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s role in reaching out to its customers as<br />

well as their end-consumer.<br />

Mr. Anup K. Baranwal (Authorised distributor, CCIL - Textile Business)<br />

started looking after the family business at the tender age of 16 years when his<br />

father fell seriously ill.<br />

In the course he took distribution agency of Sandoz (India) Ltd. in year<br />

1992. The average sale of the company in Bhadohi / Mirzapur region was only<br />

40 lacs per annum. Mr. Baranwal gradually increased the sale to Rs. 2.35 crores<br />

per annum by the year 2006. The level of sale of Rs. 2 crores was maintained<br />

despite turbulences in the market.<br />

Mr. Anup’s demise has created a big vacuum in the family and it will be a<br />

tough task to live up to his performance. We are confi dent that in these distinct<br />

times his dedicated employees will maintain the momentum generated by him<br />

and increase the success of his company.<br />

We pray to the almighty to give peace to the departed soul.<br />

Chandigarh, July 24, <strong>2008</strong><br />

During this conference, Mr. Anjani Prasad,<br />

emphasized that <strong>Clariant</strong> has been playing a crucial<br />

role in offering technology and new products for<br />

value addition. <strong>Clariant</strong> has been offering ecofriendly<br />

dyes and chemicals. <strong>Clariant</strong> is well-known<br />

as a quality supplier having complete range of<br />

specialty chemicals for almost all the fi bers. Highly<br />

skilled technicians from <strong>Clariant</strong> are at arms length<br />

to solve day to day problems of the textile processors.<br />

Mr. Prasad enlightened the processors about new<br />

product processes, technology, innovations and<br />

specialty needs for exports. We believe in providing<br />

solutions than selling products, was his key mantra.<br />

He stressed on the fact that the techno economy of<br />

a processor is always at the back of our mind while<br />

making recommendations.<br />

Mr. Shailesh Moolya, in-charge, Technical<br />

Promotion of Wool/Silk/Nylon Dyes and Chemicals,<br />

explained in detail about the technology of silk<br />

processing and how <strong>Clariant</strong> is with the customer<br />

right from dye dissolution, printing, steaming upto<br />

the washing-off of silk.<br />

Bengaluru, August 26, <strong>2008</strong><br />

Mr. Asis Patnaik, Head, Functional Effects and<br />

Polymer Dispersion, Textile Business, <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

Chemicals (India) Limited, spoke on the topic,<br />

“Polymer Dispersion – Yesterday and Tomorrow”.<br />

He explained about the requirements in an emulsion,<br />

for the future. According to Mr. Patnaik, the perfect<br />

product for tomorrow would include a Controlled<br />

Particle Size, Bimodal Particles with High Solid<br />

Content, Low Volatile Organic Compounds and<br />

Controlled Molecular Weight Products. He discussed<br />

the history and future of various emulsions and their<br />

applications including the Nano emulsions.<br />

Late Mr. Anup Kumar<br />

Baranwal<br />

(Proprietor, M/s. Prabha<br />

<strong>Colour</strong> Company).<br />

Left to Heavenly Abode on<br />

July 22, <strong>2008</strong>.

Textiles: The Silent Witness<br />

Fibers<br />

While fabrics and fi nished textile products are<br />

often valuable evidence, the most important textile<br />

witnesses are fi bers. “Most of the information we<br />

learn is gathered from fi bers and threads,” says Skip<br />

Palenik, a Forensic Consultant, Senior Research<br />

Microscopist and President of Microtrace LLC.<br />

“Fiber evidence can be critical to investigations –<br />

it is not going too far to say that lives have been<br />

saved because of forensic fi ber examinations,” says<br />

Houck, Director of Forensic Science Initiative and<br />

Research Offi ce Manager for Forensic Research<br />

Business Development at the College of Business<br />

and Economic at West Virginia University,<br />

“Fibers are shed by rope, carpets, blankets,<br />

upholstery, and many other items,” says You-Lo<br />

Hsieh, Professor of Fiber and Polymer Science<br />

at the University of California, Davis, who also<br />

advises student research in the university’s forensic<br />

science graduate program. Fiber evidence may be<br />

used to corroborate witness statements, establish<br />

someone’s presence at the scene of a crime, or<br />

provide investigative leads, says Bloch.<br />

Palenik explains that forensic scientists rely on<br />

Edmond Locard’s Exchange Principle when looking<br />

at fi ber evidence. Simply put, the principle states<br />

that whenever two objects come into contact, there<br />

is always an exchange of material. That exchange<br />

of material can establish an association (or lack<br />

association) between two objects or persons, says<br />

Bloch.<br />

Fabrics / Garments<br />

Sometimes, the victim’s clothing is one of the few<br />

clues left to tell us what happened. “In cases where,<br />

the body of the victim has been buried for some years,<br />

and only the (victim’s) skeleton remains, elements<br />

of the victim’s clothing may have survived. This<br />

clothing can be examined for cuts and tears, bullet<br />

holes, and other penetration wounds. Such evidence<br />

may assist the coroner with establishing the cause of<br />

death and the weapon used,” notes Mike Pailthorpe,<br />

Senior Consultant for the Food and Textiles group<br />

of the Sydney, Australia.<br />

Antimicrobal Finish exhibits<br />

Washfastness with no<br />

Binder<br />

Sanitized Silver works by damaging the cell<br />

membranes and inhibiting the growth and<br />

reproduction of bacteria responsible for odor<br />

development in textiles. The fi nish was developed<br />

specifi cally for use on synthetic fi bers. The company<br />

says these fi bers, especially polyester, are the<br />

preferred material for sport, leisure, and work wear<br />

– all sectors which demand high wash resistance. It<br />

claims that “upto 100 washing cycles at 60°C are<br />

possible without<br />

impairing the<br />

hygienic function<br />

(of the fi nish)”.<br />

Sanitized Silver<br />

can be applied<br />

to the textile by<br />

exhaust or pad<br />

processes, making<br />

it suitable for fullyfashioned<br />

knitwear<br />

and other fabric<br />

or apparel. It can<br />

also be combined<br />

with other textile<br />

effects.<br />

gleanings from press<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />


26<br />

gleanings from press<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong><br />

Wellness Fabric<br />

In Europe, “wellness” has evolved into a real megatrend.<br />

Over the years, the number of wellness<br />

hotels offering wellness treatments have increased.<br />

Restaurants put wellness dishes on their menu,<br />

claiming benefi cial effects for the diners’ personal<br />

well being. Furthermore, the number of food items<br />

and beverages bearing the term “wellness” in their<br />

names has become nearly countless. Hence, the<br />

creation of wellness textiles was only a matter of<br />

time.<br />

Since 2003, the textile industry has created the<br />

technology to construct an entire wellness fabric<br />

by using a “wellness fi ber.” Five years ago, this<br />

fi ber was presented at the Heimtextil trade show<br />

in Frankfurt, Germany, for the fi rst time. SeaCell<br />

fi bers can be generated from Lyocell, a cellulosic<br />

man-made fi ber, by adding fi nely-ground seaweed,<br />

mainly from the family of brown, red, green and blue<br />

algae, into the spinning solution. This wellness fi ber<br />

tends to be unique in its well being effect. Extensive<br />

clinical testing at Jena University (Germany)<br />

proved that minerals from the seaweed are being<br />

constantly released in a humid atmospheres. So are<br />

carotenoides and amino acids, as well as vitamins<br />

E and C. Owing to this behavior in wet conditions,<br />

SeaCell is mainly used for terry towels, bath gowns,<br />

shirts and blouses, socks, and sleepwear.<br />

Anti-aging Properties<br />

answer a Mania for Youth<br />

Vitamin E is the basis of an interesting wellness<br />

fi nish on textiles. Due to its ability to bind free<br />

radicals, vitamin E has anti-aging, moisturizing,<br />

and anti-oxidative abilities. Responding to the<br />

worldwide prevalent mania for youth, it could<br />

become the number one fi nish for all kinds of<br />

textiles and clothing: underwear and sleepwear,<br />

bed-linen and terry towels, blouses and stockings,<br />

sportwear and denim.<br />

However, the specifi c fi nish has not yet been<br />

perfected. Based on cyclodextrine technology, the<br />

auxiliary has to be applied via fi xation of an easy care<br />

resin, which unfortunately gives the textile a hand.<br />

Additionally, the tiny storage units of cyclodextrine<br />

have to be reloaded after they have delivered their<br />

contents to the skin. So if a consumer asks for a<br />

continuous dispersing of the anti-aging substance,<br />

he or she must reload the textile by adding a special<br />

compound (created by the supplier itself) to the fi nal<br />

rinsing bath in the washing machine.<br />

Indian Silk industry hit by<br />

Chinese ‘quake.’<br />

Indian silk industry with an annual business of over<br />

Rs. 10,000 crore has been hit hard by the earthquake<br />

in the recent past in China, a major supplier of raw<br />

silk for the manufacturing units in the country.<br />

The industry claimed that hundreds of units in<br />

Varanasi, Bengaluru, Madurai, Coimbatore and<br />

Bhagalpur have closed down as the raw material<br />

costs of silk have gone up by upto 40 per cent<br />

and over one lakh persons engaged in the sector<br />

have lost jobs after the earthquake in the Sichaun<br />

province of China. Sichuan is the primary supplier<br />

of raw silk yarn and dupion to Indian manufacturers<br />

of silk products. Majority of the mulberry gardens<br />

have been destroyed due to the quake, which has led<br />

to a sharp fall in production in India.<br />

“The earthquake and subsequent fl oods in Sichuan<br />

has affected the import prices of raw material, which<br />

have gone up by about 30-40 per cent,” Indian Silk<br />

Export Promotion Council Chairman, T.V Maruthi<br />

said. Further, he said the industry has also been hit<br />

by increasing transportation costs due to hike in fuel<br />

prices apart from labour and other costs.<br />

China’s Garment Export<br />

Growth slows down<br />

From January to May this year, China exported a total<br />

value of $66.16 billion of textiles and garments, upto<br />

15.4% from the same period of last year, according<br />

to the Chinese Customs offi ce. Of the sum, about<br />

$26.07 billion was textile products, upto 26.3%, and<br />

$40.09 billion was garments and accessories, upto<br />

9.3%. The textile exports of China regained its fast<br />

growth, while garment exports faced a much weaker<br />

demand abroad. Industry players said that the weak<br />

overseas consumer demand had affected the cotton<br />

sector in China. The country imported 240,200 tons<br />

of cotton this May, a decrease of 23,200 tons, or<br />

8.81 from the previous months.

New <strong>Clariant</strong> Global Carpet Center offers<br />

‘Under-One-Roof’ facility for Customers<br />

new facility that consolidates<br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong>’s leading application services<br />

and expertise for customers in the carpet<br />

industry was formally inaugurated at<br />

Louvain-la-Neuve, south of Brussels<br />

in Belgium, on September 19, <strong>2008</strong>.<br />

The state-of-the-art Carpet Center<br />

underpins <strong>Clariant</strong>’s position as a supplier<br />

of the full range of dyes and chemicals for<br />

all aspects of carpet processing (from yarn<br />

spinning, dyeing and printing, to fi nishing<br />

and backing).<br />

It brings the company’s colouration<br />

and fi nishing facilities and know-how<br />

under one roof, a feature that is attractive<br />

to customers because they can discuss the<br />

whole chain in carpet production at one<br />

place and with one company.<br />

Facilities include an application<br />

laboratory, machinery for rotary and jet<br />

printing, steamers, a gum applicator,<br />

different types of exhaust dyeing machines,<br />

foam application, continuous dryer, quality<br />

and fastness testing equipment, and a<br />

customer showroom with more than 300<br />

Feedback ?<br />

Send your suggestions/entries to<br />

sujata.pariti@clariant.com<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

www.clariant.in<br />

carpet samples illustrating different types<br />

and colouration effects.<br />

Also at the new center, customers’<br />

production processes can be imitated for<br />

trialing or problem solving. New products<br />

and developments can be demonstrated,<br />

and training is available. Masterbatches,<br />

also used in the carpet industry, is adjacent<br />

to the new center.<br />

Recent innovative developments for the<br />

center have included bright highfast dyes<br />

for jet printing, and new C6 fl uorocarbon<br />

products with high dry soil-release are in<br />

advanced stages.<br />

Ivan De Langhe, Head of the <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

Global Carpet Center, says: “It is a great<br />

advantage for customers to have the<br />

different facilities and knowledge in one<br />

place. With the facilities we have, covering<br />

all applications in the industry, this new<br />

facility will be an attractive proposition for<br />

customers seeking one-stop solutions.”<br />

Belgium was chosen for the location of<br />

the facility because of the country’s preeminence<br />

in the industry – it is world’s<br />

biggest carpet producer after the US.<br />

gleanings from press<br />

Printed and Published by<br />

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

Design by Point-n-Pixel<br />

Printed by Multiple Images<br />

Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi<br />

AUSTRALIA: Lightweight<br />

MerinoCool Fabrics<br />

Launched | Source: just-style.com<br />

New lightweight woven fabrics<br />

made from Australian Merino<br />

fi bers were launched on September<br />

25, <strong>2008</strong> for soft tailored suits and<br />

separates as well as smart casual apparel.<br />

The MerinoCool fabrics, developed by<br />

Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), are<br />

less than 165gsm and respond naturally<br />

to environmental and body temperature<br />

changes.<br />

This means they keep the wearer either<br />

warm or cool depending on the ambient<br />

temperature or wearing situation and are<br />

suitable for year-round wear.<br />

AWI CEO Craig Welsh says: “Today’s<br />

consumers - particularly in the major<br />

markets of Europe, the US and Japan -<br />

want lightweight clothes. People want to<br />

feel comfortable, and in the contemporary<br />

built environment they don’t actually need<br />

clothes for protection or to keep warm.”<br />

More than 15 global supply chain<br />

partners are involved in the MerinoCool<br />

project, which targets the smart casual<br />

market in Italy, France, Japan, Korea, India<br />

and China.<br />

Editorial Co-ordinator: Sujata Pariti<br />

Editorial Board: Rajinikanth Prasad, Hitendra Parekh,<br />

Sunil Joshi, Sanjay Sathe and Sunil Kadam<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2008</strong> 27

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