Colour Chronicle - Oct 2008 - Clariant

TLP Division 

Colour Chronicle 

A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication 

for the Textile, Leather, Paper & allied processing industries 

29 th year of publication 

Number 3 | 2008

colour chronicle 3 | 2008 

Contents 

textile 3 

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends 

Dyeing of PAC/Wo and PAC/CEL blends 

coldblack ® : Sun Reflector – UV Protector 

Some facts about light fastness 

leather 12 

New NMP-free Aqualen ® Tops by Clariant 

Tanicor ® OS-IN p 

paper 15 

Cartacoat ® RM rheology modifiers 

Strength from the inner core 

GOTS approved list 19 

new arrivals 20 

inside views 22 

gleanings from press 25 

2 colour chronicle 3 | 2008

Dyeing Methods and Dye Selection for Blends of: 

I – One Bath Method with Modified Basic 

Dyes for Acrylic and Indosol SF Dyes for 

Cellulosics 

This method is only recommended for pastel and 

medium shades. 

Thiotan S liq prevents precipitation between the 

cationic modifi ed basic dyes and anionic Indosol SF 

dyes, which may occur depending on the dyes and 

concentrations used. 

Standard recipe 

It is essential to set the dye bath in the following 

order: 

Liquor ratio: 1/10 

a) 1 g/l Thiotan S liq 

0.5 g/l sodium acetate 

Run 5-10 minutes 

b) x % Modified Basic Dye 

Run 5-10 minutes 

c) y % Indosol SF dye 

6 g/l sodium sulphate anh. 

d) Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5 with acetic acid. 

Dyeing Programme 

Acrylic 

II – Two Bath Method with Modified 

Basic Dyes / Drimaren CL Dyes 

For better brilliance and high wet fastness properties 

we can dye this blend in two baths with modifi ed 

basic dyes and Drimaren CL dyes. 

It is preferred to give wash with hot wash at 80°C 

for 10 minutes before dyeing cycle starts. 

Dyeing the acrylic component with modifi ed 

basic dyes dyes in the 1st bath 

Dyebath Composition 

x % modified basic dye 

0.3 g/l Ekaline F.IN liq 

6-8 g/l sodium sulphate anh. 

0.5 g/l sodium acetate 

3.5-0.5 % Retargal ANI based on 

acrylic component weight 

– Higher % for lighter 

depth 

pH = 4.5 acetic acid 80% 

Dyeing Programme 

Cotton 

Cotton and Acrylic Fibers Blends 

textile 

colour chronicle 3 | 2008 3

4 

textile 


Over Dyeing the Cotton Component with Drimaren 

CL Dyes in the 2nd Bath 

Classic Drimaren dyeing with Thiotan S liq to 

avoid chances of precipitation and agglomeration 

of leftover cationic dyestuff and Drimaren dyes 

(0.5 g/l) 

After Treatment 

Rinse well 

Treat at 70 - 80°C for 15 mins. with: 

1 g/l Lyocol OU liq 

pH = 9 using soda ash 

Rinse. 

Special Treatment for very High Wet Fastness 

Properties. 

After treat with Optifi x F liq 

Same Method in Reverse Order 

Although, it is economical to carry out this method 

in the reverse order, i.e. fi rst dyeing the viscose 

component with Drimaren dyes and then the PAC 

with modifi ed basic dyes, dyed cotton component 

is more heavily stained by the basic dyes while the 

PAC is being over dyed (mordant effect), than when 

dyeing according to the conventional method. For 

this reason, the reverse method can only be carried 

out with specially selected basic dyes.

As a rule, PAC/Wo blends are dyed 

as yarn. Special attention has to 

be paid to the shrinkage. The ratio 

of the fi ber components, the self of 

wool, the felting tendency of wool 

and the glass transition point of the 

acrylic fi ber are also important factors. 

The most interesting process is the 

possibility of dyeing this blend in one bath. 

It has to be borne in mind that the wool is 

dyed in an acid medium with anionic dyes 

whereas PAC is dyed with cationic dyes in 

same medium. 

There are two problems to be solved: 

The prevention of precipitations between 

the two dye classes and the prevention of 

dye losses. 

While many non-ionic surfactants are 

soluble to prevent the precipitations, it is 

diffi cult to achieve both aims. The cationic 

dye, stains the wool at low temperature and 

migrates on reaching the glass transition 

point to the acrylic fi ber. The degree 

of staining of the wool at the end of the 

dyeing depends on: 

Saturation of the acrylic fi ber. 

Depth of the shade. 

Cationic dyes used. 

Use of glauber’s salt. 

Use of a suitable dispersant. 

The wool dyes hardly stain the PAC 

fi ber but are greatly hindered in exhausting 

onto the wool by unsuitable dispersants. 

Thiotan S liq achieves both aims; it 

disperses well and does not prevent build 

up on wool dyes. 

The Optilan MF dyes are particularly 

suitable because they dye the wool at 

textile 

Dyeing of PAC/Wo and 

PAC/CEL blends 

the isoelectric point and level without 

electrolyte at a pH which corresponds 

exactly to the recommendation for dyeing 

acrylic fi bers. 

Since the wool absorbs part of the acid, 

the pH of the bath may increase and lead to 

the following problems: 

Attack on the cationic dyes by 

hydrolysis. 

Increase in the staining of the wool 

dyes by hydrolysis. 

Only mediocre reproducibility of the 

shade on the wool component. 

For this reason, we recommend adding 

a little acid before the end of dyeing at 

98°C or 105°C to promote exhaustion of 

the basic dyes on the acrylic fi ber and the 

wool dyes on the wool. With deep shades, 

it is advisable to wash off with Ekaline 

F.IN liq to improve the end use fastness 

properties. 

PAC fi bers and Cotton or Viscose 

complete each other quite well in their 

physiological behavior (PAC: warm, non 

felting; CEL: good moisture absorption, 

no electrostatic charging). Due to their 

non-felting behavior, PAC/Co blends are 

becoming increasingly popular in the 

market. For these blends an HT dyeing 

is not necessary and very brilliant shades 

can be produced. One bath or one bath two 

stage processes are possible with results 

which meet the fastness requirements for 

domestic laundering. 

Again the dye classes used (cotton 

dyes – anionic; PAC dyes – cationic dyes) 

pose certain problems but Clariant offers 

solutions with various alternatives: 


5

textile 

6 colour chronicle 3 | 2008 

Shade Dyes Dyeing Process 

Pale modified basic One Bath 

dyes/Indosol SF 

Pale-medium modified basic One Bath 

dyes/Indosol SF 

Dark modified basic One Bath/ 

dyes/Indosol SF two stage 

Brilliant modified basic 

dyes/Drimaren K Two Bath 

Dark & Drimaren XN/ Two Bath 

Brilliant modified basic dyes 

(fixation with 

Optifix F liq) 

The shade and fastness properties are determined 

by the selection of dyes for the CEL fi ber. The 

economy is determined by the process. 

In all one bath processes the addition of a 

dispersant such as Thiotan S liq paste is essential 

to avoid precipitations in the dye bath. At the same 

time Thiotan S liq improves the cellulosic fi ber 

reserve towards the modifi ed basic dyes. 

With high dye concentrations only one bath two 

stage process is suitable. 

The reserves of the PAC fi ber to Direct or Indosol 

dyes depend on the substantivity of the individual 

dye. The dyes for application should be selected 

carefully. Further, the reserve decreases with 

increasingly acid pH value. The addition of cationic 

retarders increases staining of the acrylic fi bers. 

The addition of glauber’s salt required for one bath 

exhaustion of the direct dyes has a retarding effect 

on the cationic dyes and therefore, increases the 

tendency to staining of the cellulosic fi ber. 

Dyeing is carried out at pH values between 4 

and 5 to exclude any hydrolysis of the cationic dyes. 

This may cause problems with the solubility of the 

direct dyes. In the one bath two stage process, special 

attention must be paid to the dyeing conditions 

which could be unfavourable for the cationic dyes. 

Migration of the modifi ed basic dyes is possible at 

98°C in the presence of salt at a pH above 7. The pH 

should therefore, not rise above 6 in the second stage 

and the temperature not above 85°C. The presence 

of Thiotan S liq paste disperses any precipitations. 

Brilliant shades can only be obtained with 

reactive dyes on the CEL component. When using 

the Drimaren K dyes, the PAC component is dyed 

fi rst as usual and then the CEL component in a fresh 

bath with Drimaren K dyes by one of the usual 

processes. These processes have very little effect on 

the shade of the PAC dyeing. Finally, the goods are 

rinsed and washed off at 80°C with Lyocol OU liq 

and Ladipur RSK liq. 

When dyeing the opposite way round, i.e., when 

the reactive dyes are applied fi rst, they act as mordant 

for the cationic modifi ed basic dyes because of their 

sulpho groups. Severe staining and poorer fastness 

properties on the CEL component are the result. Hot 

dyeing reactive (Drimaren X/XN) cannot be used for 

cross dyeing because of the high amount of salt and 

alkali required. They lead to migration and change 

of shade of the basic dye on the PAC component. In 

reversed processes where CEL component is dyed 

fi rst, most basic dyes also show a mordant effect on 

the CEL component dyed with Drimaren X dyes. 

Clariant has developed a process which is based 

on the principle of blocking the sulpho groups of the 

reactive dyes by a treatment with Optifi x F liq. After 

this treatment the PAC component is cross dyed 

with modifi ed basic dyes. 

An intermediate fi xation treatment with Optifi x 

F liq achieves two things: 

a) The mordanting effect is almost completely 

prevented, because the strongly anionic reactive 

dyes on the CEL fi ber surface are neutralized 

by the cationic Optifi x F liq, so that afterwards 

when PAC component is dyed, the basic dye can 

no longer be adsorbed on the CEL component. 

b) Treatment with Optifi x F liq also binds a portion 

of the unfi xed reactive dye, thus obtaining better 

yield and even at this point, nearly attaining the 

desired wet fastness properties. 

The over dyeing of the PAC component also acts 

as a soaping bath so that the laborious conventional 

soaping treatment to remove the unfi xed and 

hydrolyzed reactive dye becomes unnecessary. 

The reserve procedure also permits shading of 

the PAC component, which as a rule involves fewer 

problems than shading the CEL component.

coldblack ® : Sun Reflector – 

Dark colours heat up stronger when exposed to 

direct sunlight compared to light colours. Many 

textiles worn in the summer time or exposed to the 

sun offer poor protection from damaging UV rays. 

In order to prevent this from occuring, we have 

come up with cold black process. 

coldblack ® UV Protector 

combines two functions in one special 

fi nishing technology for textiles: 

– Sun Refl ector 

– UV Protector 

Effective Heat Management 

Light coloured textiles refl ect both visible and 

invisible rays of sunlight, meaning both heat and 

light. 

Dark coloured textiles absorb both types of rays 

and therefore, absorb heat. 

coldblack ® reduces this absorption of heat rays 

particularly in the case of darker colours and in 

all types of textiles. 

The result is tangibly better heat management. 

Without coldblack ® 

Dark textiles without coldblack ® absorb heat. 

With coldblack ® 

Dark textiles with coldblack ® refl ect heat. 

Reliable Protection from UV Rays 

Many textiles worn in the summer time or exposed 

to the sun offer poor protection from damaging UV 

rays. 

The coldblack ® technology guarantees a minimum 

UPF 30+ protection when applied to any textile** in 

any colour without affecting the look or feel of the 

product. 

The UV protection factor (UPF) gives an indication 

of how much longer someone using coldblack ® 

textiles can remain in the sun without incurring any 

skin damage. The calculations were based on the socalled 

self-protection time of the skin, which varies 

according to individual skin type. 

** Important: The UPF value can vary depending on structure, 

thickness and material. It relates to closed textile surfaces. 

For this reason, the UPF factor needs to be determined 

on the different textiles. From a minimum of UPF 30+, 

coldblack ® conformity is guaranteed. 

Skin Types with varying Degrees of Self-protection 

Skin Description Sunburn risk in high 

type summer midday after 

I Pale skin with freckles 

blonde or red hair 

approx. 5 to 10 minutes 

II Pale skin and blonde hair 

blue or green eyes 


III Medium skin dark hair 

and brown eyes 


IV Naturally dark skin black 

or dark hair brown eyes 

approx. 40 minutes 

coldblack ® - Practical examples 

Skin Protection with coldblack ® textiles 

type (UPF 30+)UPF x self-protection of skin 

I 150 to 300 minutes = 2.5 h to 5 h until skin reddens 

II 300 to 600 minutes = 5 h to 10 h until skin reddens 

III 600 to 900 minutes = 10 h to 15 h until skin reddens 

IV 1200 minutes = 20 h until skin reddens 

textile 


8 

textile 


coldblack ® -Reliable Protection from UV Rays 

Without coldblack ® 

Light coloured textiles without Coldblack ® allow 

UV-rays to penetrate 

With coldblack ® 

Light coloured textiles with coldblack ® signifi cantly 

reduce UV-rays from penetration 

Examples for UV Protection measures and their 

UV Protection factors 

UV protection UV protection 

measures 

Shade under a parasol 

factor 

without special UV protection appox. 5 

Shade under a tree approx. 10 

Light cotton clothing 

Sun cream with correct 

approx. 10 

application 

Thick cotton clothing 

0 to 30 

without coldblack ® approx. 20+ 

Textiles with coldblack ® minimum 30+ 

Many textiles equipped with coldblack ® demonstrate a 

UV protection factor of over UPF 50. 

coldblack ® - Advantages 

Optimal Protection from Heating-up due to 

Sunlight 

Because textiles fi nished with 

coldblack ® heatup less in all 

colours compared with material 

without a coldblack ® fi nish. 

Textiles stay Cool to the Touch 

When applied to clothing, this 

means that the wearer perspires 

less, feels better and is capable of 

greater performance. 

Reliable protection from UV rays (minimum 

UPF 30+) 

– Protection from UV-A rays and 

UV-B rays. 

– UV-A rays accelerate the aging 

of the skin. 

– UV-B rays cause a pigment 

change that result in long term browning. Without 

effective UPF protection (Ultraviolet Protection 

Factor), aggressive oxygen molecules are released 

which cause sunburn or which can lead to the 

formation of melanoma. 

“bluesign ® Approved” 

Components 

The coldblack ® 

fi nishing only contains 

“bluesign approved” 

components. 

“bluesign approved” components are as low as 

possible in harmful substances, making them 

benign to mankind and the environment and 

encouraging the economical and ecological use 

of resources in the production process. 

Coldblack ® – Advantages at a Glance 

Less sweat. 

Increased concentration. 

Higher performance. 

Greater comfort. 

Increased endurance. 

Minimum UPF 30+. 

No adverse effect on looks, feel or breathability. 

Function lasts through numerous washing and 

cleaning processes. 

Finish comprises “bluesign approved” 

components. 

Following are the wide range of applications and 

lifestyle categories, which provide added comfort 

due to coldblack ® : 

outdoor 

bike 

sportswear 

workwear 

uniforms 

merchandising 

tents 

umbrellas

In Love with Fashion 

Dyestuff range: Foron ® S-WF 

Today’s high consumer quality 

awareness in an ever so competitive 

textile environment, need special products 

to meet the ever growing demands. 

Especially in terms of trendy wash and 

wear, easy care and soft touch products 

(with the increasing use of micro-fi ber 

articles), highest levels of colour fastness 

are required. With the Foron ® S-WF 

dyestuffs, an evolution of the Foron ® Stype 

disperse dyes (pioneered by us in 

the 1950’s when still operating under the 

former Sandoz name), we do not only 

meet these requirements, but today can 

offer a conclusive range of dyestuffs, 

which are able to cover the full scope 

of fashion shades. Foron ® S-WF with its 

market leading colour fastness levels and 

highest sublimation fastness enhances 

today’s textile products in the apparel, 

workwear and sportswear segments, whilst 

giving textile producers state-of-theart 

process and environmental security. 

Clariant’s especially developed products 

and processes for colourfast Polyester 

include: 

A complete range of colourfast 

dyestuffs; Foron ® SWF gives excellent 

wet-fastness levels, with highest 

sublimation fastness. 

The necessary auxiliaries needed for 

reproducible and reliable dyeing e.g. 

Dispersing agent Lyocol ® RDN liquid 

and Acid buffer Opticid ® PSD liquid. 

Recommended pre-treatment, dyeing 

and after-treatment processes in 

exhaust and continuous dyeing. 

Dyestuff criteria for high wet-fastness 

polyester and blends: 

High operational reliability 

Very good dispersion stability 

High to very high sublimation 

fastnesses for yarns and tops 

High stability in further processing 

steps (e.g. reactive dyeing) 

Processing requirements (e.g. for postsetting) 

Full scope of elements to cover fashion 

shades 

Foron ® Golden Yellow S-WF 

0.08% 0.27% 0.80% 2.40% 

Foron ® Red S-WF 

0.19% 0.60% 1.80% 5.40% 

Foron ® Rubine S-WF 

0.40% 0.95% 2.84% 8.52% 

Foron ® Brilliant Yellow S-WF 

0.14% 0.44% 1.32% 4.00% 

Foron ® Scarlet S-WF 

0.09% 0.31% 0.92% 2.76% 

Properties 

The Foron ® S-WF dyes are elements with 

the following special properties: 

Highest sublimation fastness, therefore, 

ideal range for yarn dyeing as well as 

for continuous applications (Thermosol 

dyeing) and for printing 

Highest wet fastness level after postsetting 

(mode of action: increase of 

water solubility in alkaline fastness 

testing liquors, but keeping the 

chromophore intact) 

Easy clearable (high alkaline solubility, 

therefore, no reductive clearing 

necessary for articles with little to 

moderate staining like e.g. PES/CEL 

blends; reductive clearing is, however, 

necessary for articles with heavy 

staining like blends with Spandex ® +, 

Lycra ® +, XLA ® +etc.) 

Foron ® Violet S-WF 

textile 

0.09% 0.32% 0.95% 2.85% 

Foron ® Cyanine S-WF 

0.13% 0.32% 0.97% 2.90% 

Foron ® Blue S-WF 

0.10% 0.21% 0.63% 1.90% 

Foron ® Navy S-WF 

0.09% 0.35% 1.06% 3.18% 

Foron ® Black S-WF 

0.12% 0.39% 1.18% 3.54% 

Scope of Application 

The Foron ® S-WF dyes are recommended 

for the following applications: 

Exhaust dyeing of PES/CEL (SWIFT 

exhaust process), PES/XLA, PES/ 

CEL/XLA ® + and PES articles that are 

being post-set (knitwear) and/or that 

require above average wet fastness 

(sportswear) 

Continuous dyeing of PES/CEL 

(SWIFT continue process), PES/CEL/ 

XLA ® + and PES articles 

Printing of PES, PES/XLA ® + and PES/ 

PUE articles 

® + XLA is an elastic polyethylene fiber and is a 

trade mark of DOW Chemicals. 


9

10 

title textile 


Some Facts about Light 

Fastness 

Textile Dyes and Pigments used in the industry 

vary to a great extent in terms of their 

resistance to light sources and this phenomenon 

is called as ‘Light-fastness of Textiles’. 

Sunlight materials electromagnetic radiations 

of several wavelengths. Visible range of spectrum 

(400 - 700 nm), ultraviolet (300 - 400 nm) and infra 

red (700 - 1400 nm) become the main constituents 

which reach to the earth’s surface. 

Coloured materials like Textile, Leather and 

Paper when subjected to the photons generated from 

the sunlight have tendency to destroy the colouring 

constituents of dyes and pigments. Further prolonged 

exposure may even cause destruction to the substrate 

itself. Partial destruction of the colouring material 

in dyes and pigment is known as fading. The other 

detrimental effect could be change of tone or change 

of brilliance of the colour. 

A consumer when buys an apparel is attracted 

to the colours and if this colour is altering / fading 

during usage or laundering, the consumer gets 

frustrated, so it is our responsibility to safeguard and 

guide the processor about the fading behavior of a 

dye/pigment applied on the substrate. 

There are many factors infl uencing the light 

fastness behavior. 

Substrate and their diffusion properties. 

Substrate preparation. 

Chemical nature of the fi ber. 

Method of the application. 

Delusterants in the substrate. 

Finishing chemicals applied. 

Usage of the article. 

Dye-fi xers used. 

Choice of colours and their combination. 

Perspiration and exposure to light. 

Prolonged exposure to light. 

Oxidative or reductive nature of dye fading 

reaction. 

Unfortunately, the tag labels on articles do give 

wash instruction but the guidance and sustainability 

of the article to multiple exposures to light are not 

so popular. There are hardly any indicators to guide 

the consumer regarding the resistance of the article 

towards sunlight fading. 

Uncontrollable Factors 

Content of UV amount in the sunlight: As more 

is the UV component more photons of their light 

and more will be the effect on colour with respect 

to fading. 

The intensity of temperature from the sunlight 

falling on the article. 

Relative Humidty 

Higher the humidity, higher could be fading. 

This factor has impact on the wet-light fastness 

and hence fading in varying humid environments 

come into the picture. 

Atmospheric contaminations. 

Amount and quality of perspiration also play a 

crucial role in deciding the amount of fading. 

Laundering pattern. 

Repeated laundering and exposure to sunlight 

or a single exposure to sunlight also affects the 

degree of fading. 

Some Guidelines 

Higher the depth, better the light fastness. 

Only right choice of colours can help in getting 

better light fastness and any corrective actions 

would fail to improve the light fastness. 

Right choice of textile chemicals to ensure that 

no detrimental effect of them on the light fastness 

of dyed articles occur. 

When use of more than one colour is made in 

making a shade, the fi nal light fastness of the 

article will be based on the lowest light fastness 

constituent of the dye in the recipe. This is more 

important when we want to ensure on-tone 

behavior of fading after exposure to light (one 

component fading to smaller extent will give a 

further ugly appearance to the shade than one 

with on-tone fading).

leather 

New NMP-free Aqualen ® Tops 

State-of-the-art technology for todays’ leather 

fi nishing is based on aqueous products. Clariant’s 

efforts to reduce VOC in fi nishing products have led 

to a new solution within the Aqualen ® Top Coat range. 

Great variety of gloss levels can be reached 

by combining Aqualen ® Top DC-2050 (dull) and 

Aqualen ® Top GC-2051 (glossy). This new generation 

of easy to handle top coats are distinguished by a 

perfect balance of high performance and excellent 

aesthetics. Most different looks and feels can 

be generated using this product mix alone or in 

combination with other ecologically-friendly 

Aqualen ® /Melio ® Tops and/or the versatile Melio® 

WF feel additive range. This enables the fi nisher 

to cover a wide range of leather articles. The still 

widely used nitro/emulsion lacquer product can 

be partly replaced – a further step towards VOC 

reduction in leather fi nishing. 

Especially developed for high gloss shoe upper 

leathers is Aqualen ® Top GC-2030.A. Leathers 

top coated with Aqualen ® Top GC-2030.A are 

distinguished by a very natural and casein-like 

look and surface feel together with high wet rub 

properties. Additionally, Aqualen ® by Clariant 

Top GC-2031 is 

suitable for shoe upper leathers and for high gloss 

fancy and upholstery leathers as well, where even 

higher physicals are requested. Both products are 

plateable at high temperatures and show a very good 

intercoat adhesion together with very good milling 

behavior. 


For aqueous patent leather imitations Clariant 

offers the new Aqualen ® Top LN.A. This new 

ecological top coat product is developed to meet 

highest requirements of both, gloss level and 

physicals. Leathers fi nished with Aqualen ® Top 

LN.A, an aqueous, modifi ed, aliphatic polyurethane 

dispersion, show beautiful brilliance and depth of 

gloss. The application can be done either by reverse 

roller coater or by spraying technology. This new 

and really helpful characteristic offers quite a lot of 

options to the fi nisher. 

Aqualen ® Tops: 

The ecological solution for 

perfect leather finishing

Tanicor ® OS-IN p 

“Low Free-Formaldehyde” 

Replacement Syntan 

Features 

Low in “Free-Formaldehyde” content 

Versatile replacement syntan suitable for 

all type of leather 

Good fullness coupled with grain 

tightness 

Uniform Dyeability 

Can be used for dark and pastel shades as 

well. 

Leather traded with Tanicor ® OS-IN p 

can pass various specifi cations of “low-freeformaldehyde” 

limits when tested by DIN 

53315. 

leather 

Tanicor ® OS-IN p can also be used with 

Clariant’s other “Low Free-Formaldehyde” 

products to produce various leather articles. 

For the complete list of Clariant’s “Low Free- 

Formaldehyde” products, please refer our 

product guide. 

Our technical service team would be happy 

to be at your service for the development of 

“Low Free-Formaldehyde” systems, with 

Tanicor ® OS-IN p. 

Suggested usage of Tanicor ® OS-IN p in 

retannage: 

1. For Upper Leathers : 6 to 10% 

2. For Clothing Nappa : 4 to 6% 

3. For Cow Bag Leather : 3 to 5% 

Formaldehyde as a raw material is widely 

used in the manufacture of leather chemicals 

for condensation of various monomers like 

phenol, naphthalene, urea, etc. 


13

Strength from the Inner Core 

Dry strength solutions by Clariant 

Growing use of Recycled Fiber 

large quantity of waste paper and board 

A is recycled, providing a relatively 

cheap source of cellulosic fi ber raw 

material for papermaking. Unfortunately, 

the quality of fi ber in wastepaper is 

deteriorating, due to increased recycling, 

and the dry strength of a paper sheet 

inevitably suffers as a consequence. 

Dry Strength Additives needed 

Dry strength additives have been available 

in the paper industry for many years. 

Natural polymers such as starch, either in 

its native or chemically modifi ed form, have 

been employed relatively successfully, due 

to their availability and low cost. 

Paper makers around the world want 

to raise the standards associated with dry 

strength, closer to the values achieved with 

virgin fi ber. At the same time, they work at 

lowering the basis weight of a paper sheet, 

whilst maintaining an acceptable level of 

strength, aiming at major cost benefi ts 

and reducing of the impact of high energy 

prices. 

Starch has its Drawbacks 

There has been a temptation to add 

excessively high amounts of starch 

because, although low in cost, the strength 

performance of starch is between 5 and 

10 times less than a synthetic dry strength 

polymer, on a dry basis. Starch, even in 

its cationized form, has a limited affi nity 

for paper fi bers and large quantities of 

solubilized material remain in the water 

circuits of the paper machine, where they 

act as nutrients for bacteria and interfere 

with the affi nity of other paper making 

additives. In the tissue industry, the rigidity 

of starch polymers has a negative infl uence 

on softness and dusting. 

Clariant’s Cationic Polymers Solution 

Achim Kohler (Clariant, Germany) 

remembers: “Back in 2004/2005, we 

identifi ed the growing problems with the 

fi ber quality of the waste paper. We therefore 

decided to address the customers’ needs 

for low cationic, highly concentrated and 

effi cient products with good absorption. In 

particular, the low cationic charge of the 

new products developed was intended to 

prevent the fi ber charge from fl ipping to 

cationic from anionic.” 

Newborn in the Range, Cartabond ® 0701E 

liquid 

The most recently developed product of 

the range, Cartabond 0701E liquid, is a 

dry strength additive for stock application 

under neutral to alkaline paper making 

conditions. It is suitable for all paper and 

board grades but especially benefi cial where 

recycled fi ber is the main raw material. 

Typical examples are brown packaging 

papers manufactured from old corrugated 

containers (OCC), tissue produced by 

fully bleached virgin or recycled fi bers. 

All strength parameters can be improved, 

including burst, tensile, SCT and CMT. 

paper 

Mode of Action 

A combination of ionic and hydrogen 

bonding is responsible for the superior 

strength. Starch relies almost entirely on 

hydrogen bonding for strength development 

but ionic bonding, which is up to fi ve times 

stronger, allows enhanced performance. 

In addition, Cartabond 0701E liquid has 

strong affi nity for cellulosic fi bers and 

is, therefore, perfectly suited to wet-end 

application. 

Ahead of the Trend, Indian Product 

Cartabond SR 100 liquid 

Cartabond SR 100 liquid is a local 

alternative to Cartabond 0701E liquid 

available in India. It is a liquid dry strength 

resin offering improved tensile strength, 

stiffness and burst factor and is specifi cally 

recommended for stiffness improvement in 

copier paper as well as coated paperboards. 

It can also replace starch, whilst unlike 

starch, Cartabond SR 100 liquid is not 

susceptible to microbial attack, thereby 

eliminating the need for preservatives as 

well as environmental concerns. 

Back in 2004, Indian papermakers were 

actually a bit in advance in the demand for 

an alternative to strarch. Cartabond SR 100 

liquid was developed to answer the need. As 

Rajinikanth Prasad (Clariant, India) recalls: 

“we developed a liquid form for a specifi c 

customer – which happened to be a clear 

advantage for our local customers”! 


paper 

Cartacoat ® RM Rheology Modifiers 


More than just Rheology Modifers 

P 

roducing coated paper and board for 

end-products with a high quality level 

needs chemicals that can really do the job. 

Cartacoat RM is an exclusive range of rheology 

modifers, which allows control of high shear and 

low shear viscosity and water retention to achieve 

superior runability and optimum coating colour 

rheology. Cartacoat RM products can be used for 

instance for blade coating or MSP applications with 

all kind of paper and board grades. 

The Cartacoat RM series combines the features 

expected from such products, whilst allowing 

substantial savings in your production costs. 

Optimized Chemistry 

The thickening mechanism of Cartacoat RM 

rheology modifiers, as shown in the illustration 

below, comprises of two steps: 

Expansion of macro-chains, due to high 

electrostatic charge repulsion 

Inter-molecular attraction facilitates formation 

of a 3-D network 

Carbon group 

Hydrophobic group 

“Less-is-More” effect 

Cartacoat RM products replace conventional 

synthetic rheology modifiers with lower blade 

pressure, allowing increased coater speed. 

Cartacoat RM products make it possible to 

increase the dry solid content of the coating 

colour, with a positive effect on optical and 

printing properties. 

Cartacoat RM products can replace CMC 

partially or totally, offering the possibility to increase 

the amount of PVOH or starch as an OBA 

carrier, in order to improve whiteness. 

Signifcant Benefits for your System 

Up to 30 % cost savings in thickener system 

Improved coating colours and runability 

- Lower dosage needed to reach the targeted 

Brookfield viscosity 

- Better high shear profile 

- Improved water retention at lower dosage 

Improved paper and print quality 

- Positive effect on paper gloss 

- Slightly improved smoothness 

- Other properties equal (mottling, ink 

absorption and surface strength) 

The effect of 

Cartacoat RM 

products on 

viscosity and shear 

rates can be seen 

on the graph at the 

adjacent.

Complete Range for Every Specific Need 

Cartacoat RM 8 liquid 

Cartacoat RM 8 liquid is a water retention aid for 

paper and board coating colour with small effect on 

low shear and high shear viscosity. Cartacoat RM 

8 liquid improves the paper properties by reducing 

water penetration into the base sheet. Cartacoat RM 

8 liquid is FDA and BfR compliant. 


Cartacoat RM 12 liquid allows good water retention 

and increases both low and high shear viscosity. 


Cartacoat RM 15 liquid is especially suitable in 

the manufacturing of coated board and packaging 

paper, offering a good balance between Brookfield 

viscosity and water retention. Cartacoat RM 15 

liquid is FDA and BfR compliant. 


Cartacoat RM 20 liquid shows optimal high shear 

properties with high Brookfield viscosity. Small 

dosing levels are needed. Cartacoat RM 20 liquid 

has low influence on high shear viscosity and low 

blade pressure. 

Dynamic Water Retention 

DT coater 

World-class Laboratory Facilities 

From laboratory studies to pilot coating trial 

to mill trial, our laboratory facilities in France 

offer high-end equipment and expertise. 

Low shear viscosity High shear viscosity Water retention Dosing levels (*) 

Cartacoat RM 8 ( ) 0.5 – 2.0 

Cartacoat RM 12 0.1 – 1.0 



= high influence 

(*) parts per 100 parts pigments as it is 

= medium influence = some influence = no influence 

ACAV 

ÅA-GWR 

paper 


17

Result of Assessment of Dye / Processing aid for the use in EKO 

Sustainable Textile Standard (GOTS system) 

Name dye/Proc. aid Date of Approved 

approval Yes / No 

Ceranine SWPI liq 25/06/2007 Yes 

Diresul Antioxidant PRM liq 25/06/2007 Yes 

Drimaren Turquoise CL-B p 13/03/2007 Yes 

Sirrix 2 UD. IN liq 13/08/2007 Yes 

Drimaren Navy X-GN. IN 06/09/2007 Yes 

Drimaren Red X-6 BN p 06/09/2007 Yes 

Drimaren Yellow X-4RNI p 06/09/2007 Yes 

Leonil UH liq 06/09/2007 Yes 

Sirrix Antox IN liq 06/09/2007 Yes 

Imacol C2G.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes 

Sirrix N liq c 12/10/2007 Yes 

Ceraperm K.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes 

Stabilizer AWN.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes 

Stabilizer FCB.IN liq c 12/10/2007 Yes 

Sirrix SB.IN liq 12/10/2007 Yes 

Appretan ECO liq 12/10/2007 Yes 

Imerol XN.IN liq 04/08/2007 Yes 

Rintofix Thickener CA liq 13/11/2007 Yes 

Revatol S.IN p 13/11/2007 Yes 

Sirrix N liq 13/11/2007 Yes 

Stabilizer SIFAM.IN liq 13/11/2007 Yes 

Printofix Binder 1912 PLUS 14/12/2007 Yes 

Printofix Binder ITL liq 14/12/2007 Yes 

Hostapal DTC. IN liq 

Formerly (Sandopan 

DTC. IN liq) 

22/01/2008 Yes 

Global Organic Textile Standard 

The latest version of the Global 

Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) 

launched in June, sees some signifi cant 

changes for the wet processors of organic 

textiles. The changes note as follows: 

Optical brighteners are now allowed 

to be used, allowing all retailers to 

produce organic cotton products in a 

bright white. 

Quaternary ammonium compounds – 

which are known to improve the colour 

fastness of dyed goods - are prohibited 

except for auxilaries used during the 

dyeing process, provided they meet all 

other GOTS criteria. 

Heavy metals are prohibited with a 

specifi c exception for copper metal 



Imerol NLF. IN liq [ Formerly 

(Sandoclean NLF. IN liq) ] 


Leomin PNLI liq [ Formerly 

(Sandosoft PNLI liq) ] 


Ceralube JNF. IN liq 

Formerly (Sandolube 

JNF. IN liq) 


Ceralube HD. IN liq 

Formerly (Sandolube 

HD. IN liq) 


Imerol MWP liq c [ Formerly 

(Sandoclean MWP liq c) ] 


Ladipur SN liq [ Formerly 

(Sandopur SN liq) ] 


Optisul HSI liq 

Formerly (Sandozol HSI liq) 


Stabilizer SIFA. IN lq 11/02/2008 Yes 

Imerol SR liq 11/02/2008 Yes 

Stabilizer SOF. IN liq 11/02/2008 Yes 

Diresul Black RDT-S-IN liq 

Formerly (Diresul Black 

RDT liq) 


Drimaren Blue HF-2B cdg 12/02/2008 Yes 

Ladipur R3C. IN ip liq 12/02/2008 Yes 

Drimaren Navy CL-R p 12/02/2008 Yes 

Arkofil PVS p 13/03/2008 Yes 

Arkofil S 100 p 13/03/2008 Yes 

Ceraperm 3P PLUS liq 13/03/2008 Yes 

complex dyes to produce blue, green 

and turquoise shades to a depth of 5% 

owf. 

The above clauses are to be reviewed 

in two years from date of adoption. If, 

at that time, copper complex dyes are 

no longer permitted this would cause a 

problem for dyers producing the shades 

mentioned and would therefore limit 

the shades available for the retailers of 

organic products. Another change of note 

is that acceptable levels of formaldehyde 

on organic textiles have been reduced 

from 20 mg/kg to 16 mg/kg in line with 

Japanese law. 

There is also a clause not to allow 

products with the following risk phrases: 

GOTS approved list 



Ceraperm AQUA liq 13/03/2008 Yes 

Drimaren Red CL BL 13/03/2008 Yes 

Drimaren Red CL-B p 13/03/2008 Yes 

Drimaren Yellow CL-R p 13/03/2008 Yes 

Ladiquest DWA liq 13/03/2008 Yes 

Leomin SFC liq 13/03/2008 Yes 

Printofix Navy R-B 13/03/2008 Yes 

Printofix Violet R-B 13/03/2008 Yes 

Printofix Black R-NG liq 13/11/2007 Yes 

Printofix Blue R-BN 20/03/2007 Yes 

Ceraperm TSLF liq 11/06/2008 Yes 

Ceraperm 3P liq hc 11/06/2008 Yes 

Reductor D. IN p 11/06/2008 Yes 

Stabilizer 3Z liq 11/06/2008 Yes 

Sirrix SAI liq c 12/06/3008 Yes 

Hostalux ETB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes 

Leucophor BMF. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes 

Leucophor BMB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes 

Leucophor BFB. IN liq 17/06/2008 Yes 

Appretan PUL liq 29/07/2008 Yes 

Ceraperm MN liq 29/07/2008 Yes 

Mercerol QWNI. IN liq 29/07/2008 Yes 

Mercerol RWLF liq 29/07/2008 Yes 

Sirrix CPA liq 29//07/2008 Yes 

Sirrix USB liq 29/07/2008 Yes 

R50, very toxic to aquatic organisms; 

R51, toxic to aquatic organisms; R52, 

harmful to aquatic organism; R53, may 

cause long term adverse effects in the 

aquatic environment. However, GOTS 

states that as R51-R53 may lead to a loss 

in dyeing quality, the use of these will 

be optional until the next revision of the 

standard. This is a confusing situation that 

may leave many dyers unclear about the 

dyes and chemicals that can be used; it 

is recommended that in the certifi cation 

process these parameters should be 

controlled, documented and reported. 

source: www.colourclick.org; 

GOTS v 2.0 is available at: 

www.global-standard.org 


20 

new arrivals 

Additions in Local Range Global 

Printofix ® Red T-B 

Bright Red Dispersion from 

Global Printofix Range 

Product Performance 

Highly concentrated pigment. 

Good dispersion stability even below 0°C. 

Very little infl uence on viscosity of 

synthetic thickener. 

High dry cleaning fastness. 

High thermal stability. 

Suitable for discharge printing. 

Suitable for all types of printing application 

i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent 

base. 

Does not contribute in gelling of printing 

paste. 

Printofix ® Yellow T-C 

Lemon Yellow Dispersion from 

Global Printofix Range. 


Bright lemon yellow shade. 

High pigment concentration. 

Very little infl uence on viscosity of 

synthetic thickener. 

High dry cleaning fastness. 

High thermal stability. 

Suitable for discharge printing. 

Suitable for all types of printing application 

i.e., aqueous, semi-aqueous and solvent 

base. 

Does not contribute in gelling of printing 

paste. 


Foron ® Scarlet S-WF 

High wet fast disperse dye 

for red and scarlet shades 

suitable for dyeing polyester 

and its blends. 


High wet fastness. Low staining on 

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric. 

Can be applied in exhaust, printing and 

continuous application. 

Main element for wet fast fi re shade in 

combination with Foron Brilliant Yellow 

S-WF, Foron Golden Yellow S-WF, and 

Foron Red S-WF. 

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C. 

Good dispersing and leveling properties. 

Foron ® Violet S-WF 

High wet fast disperse dye 

for violet shades suitable 

for dyeing polyester and its 

blends. 


High wet fastness. Low staining on 

multifi ber even on post heat set fabric. 

Can be applied in exhaust, printing and 

continuous application. 

Main element for wet fast violet and purple 

shade in combination with Foron Blue 

S-WF and Foron Rubine S-WF. 

High sublimation fastness even at 210°C. 

Good dispersing and leveling properties. 

Launches 

Afilan ® PSE liquid 

Afi lan ® PSE liq. is a spin fi nish 

suitable for polyamide 6 and 6.6 high 

tenacity industrial yarns for example 

tyre-cord, tarpaulins, seat belts, 

conveyer belts etc. Afi lan PSE liq. 

is a proprietory blend of heat stable 

lubricants, emulsifi ers and antistats. 

Is usually applied as an aqueous 

solution (e.g. 15-25 %) with the 

usual devices. 

Is a very thermostable spin 

fi nish. 

Forms very low smoke and shows 

nearly no deposits on the godets. 

Runs well in drawing processes 

and has a good fi ber/fi ber 

cohesion. 

Owns excellent wetting and 

spreading properties. 

Afilan ® ONE liq 

Easy applicable fi ber fi nish 

and lubricant for use in fi ber 

manufacturing of polysulfonamide 

and aramide fi bers. 

Excellent lubricating properties. 

Good antistatic properties. 

Improves fi ber/fi ber cohesion and 

reduces fi ber/metal friction. 

Excellent wetting properties. 

Good thermostability. 

Each component of this 

formulation is listed in one or 

several parts of 21.CFR.170-199 

(FDA).

Foron ® Black AS-3LF 

New disperse black Dyestuff for high-fast 

applications. 

High light-fast and hot-light-fast black 

disperse dyestuff. 

High strength (30% 

stronger than Foron Black 

AS-LF) and build-up. 

Neutral shade under different light 

sources (D65/TL84/A). 

Low colour fading post exposure. 

Suitable for all commonly required 

automotive light-fastness standards. 

Excellent sublimation fastness upto 

180°C/30sec. 

Very good combinability with UVabsorbers 

(Fadex ® ). 

Suitable as base element for Coldblack ® 

applications. 

Foron ® Dark Blue S-WF 

New disperse blue dyestuff for high wetfast 

applications. 

High wet-fast dark blue disperse 

dyestuff. 

Excellent build-up. 

Neutral (greenish) shade . 

No reddish fl are under artifi cial light 

sources (TL84/CWF). 

Excellent cotton reserve. 

Good clearability above pH 9. 

Leading sublimation fastness upto 

210°C/30sec., (rating 4.9 GS). 

Eganal ® PLM liquid 

New dyeing assistant for exhaust dyeing 

of polyester and its blends with cellulosic 

fi bers injets and package dyeing machines 

under HT conditions. 

Improves dispersion stability of the 

dyes in the bath. 

Ensures good penetration and increased 

colour yield. 

Improves coverage of materials with 

different affi nity. 

Allows to reduce the dyeing time and/ 

or the dyeing temperature. 

Improves the reservation of the 

cellulosic part by dyeing polyester/ 

cellulose blends. 

Improves the in-out levelness in 

package dyeing mac hines. 

Is suitable for levelling and partial 

stripping of faulty dyeings. 

Does not affect the wet fastnesses and 

has no or minimal effect on the usual 

light fastness. 

Does not develop an unpleasant odor 

during dyeing or drying. 

Is non foaming. 

Arkofix ® ELF liq conc 

Ultra low formaldehyde containing cross 

linking agent for the easy care fi nishing of 

textiles of cellulosic fi bers and their blends 

with synthetic fi bers. 

Has a free formaldehyde content below 

0.1 %. 

Produces particularly low formaldehyde 

fi nishing effects. Meets the requirements 

of consumer labels such as Eco-Tex 

Standard 100 for textiles worn next to 

the skin (

inside views 

Technical Conferences during the Last 

A.K. Prasad interacting with customers in Kolhapur. 


P. Gayatri being welcomed by Mr. A. Karmarkar at Kolhapur Meet. 

Technological Skills and Partnerships based on 

active dialogue with customers are key elements 

in the building of a successful relationship. Keeping 

this as the focus various technical conferences 

were held all over the country as narrated below: 

Surat, June 19, 2008 

At the conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, Country 

Head of Textile, Leather & Paper Chemicals 

Division, Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, 

emphasized that Clariant has developed cost effective 

processing packages for polyester dyeing, printing 

and fi nishing chemicals. Ecological demands are 

also being catered to by our experts. Clariant has 

also introduced innovative fi nishes like moisture 

management, which gives polyester a comfortable 

feel, while imparting a protective fi nish against 

bacteria and fungi. Fluorocarbons from Clariant, 

speciality silicones and innovative prints like gold 

zari were elaborated upon during the conference. 

With the textile and apparel industry always on the 

lookout for new fi nishes and aesthetic values on the 

fabric, chemicals from Clariant’s range enhance 

both the physical appearance and performance of 

the end–product. 

Mr. Jochen Schmidt, Head, Business Line 

Functional Effects, Clariant International Ltd., 

discussed in detail about the various products 

which can be offered to the processors in Surat. He 

highlighted on the ‘Emerging Trends in Finishing 

with Clariant’s Technology’, consisting of silicone 

based products like, concentrated specialty fi nishing 

agents which can be easily diluted and used as inhouse 

formulations to a high cost advantage. Mr. 

Schmidt also highlighted on the Technical Textiles 

and stressed on the concept of Flame Retardants and 

Stain Management. 

Kolkata, June 24, 2008 

An this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized 

that Clariant offers complete solutions for the 

processing of knits, garment washing, pigment 

printing and in jute related processing. He stressed 

on the benefi ts of Ecoswat Concept, highlighting the 

The Ludhiana Meet participants.

Detailed analysis in Bengaluru. 

Quarter 

use of right technology for optimization of energy, 

water and effl uent management. He explained the 

Black Magic Process, which is a bleaching concept 

involving process effi ciency with economy using 

ecological concept. He discussed in detail the 

garment washing process using biotechnology, 

wherein he enlightened the customers with the 

enzyme processing of the garments. He also 

highlighted the leaning of prossessors towards 

the latest trends in Technical Textiles offered by 

Clariant, such as ultra low formaldehyde based 

binders, non-PFOA concept of fl uorocarbons. Effect 

labels from Clariant were also touched upon in the 

presentation. 

Ludhiana, July 31, 2008 

At this occasion, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad emphasized 

that Clariant offers complete solutions for the 

processing of knits, garment washing, enzyme 

technology, denim washing and related technologies. 

Drimaren Dyes were offered as a solution for all 

the problems related to the Dyeing technology. He 

Jochen Schmidt at the Surat Meet. 

Asis Patnaik at the Bengaluru Meet. 

discussed the problems related to effl uent treatment. 

He discussed in detail the garment washing process 

incorporating biotechnology, wherein he enlightened 

the customers with the enzyme processing of the 

garments. The new concepts such as Cold Black 

and Nanosphere by Clariant were discussed during 

the meet. Concept of REACH was explained to 

the customers. Mr. Prasad also discussed with the 

customers, the main reasons for price increase and 

ensured them that Clariant will always be with the 

customers in these diffi cult times. 

Kolhapur, August 4, 2008 

At this conference, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, emphasized 

that Clariant offers complete Solutions for Sizing 

and technologies related to entire processing of 

textile. He discussed about the new applications in 

sizing and also the GOTS approved products related 

to sizing. Technologies for continuous processings 

such as bleaching, dyeing and fi nishing were 

highlighted upon along with speciality fi nishes. He 

stressed that Clariant has a wide range of products 


23

24 

inside views 


Anjani Prasad, Head - TLP Division, India, at 

the Ludhiana Meet. 

and depending upon consumer needs Clariant can 

offer cost and process effective recipes. Clariant is 

shortly launching GOTS certifi ed amylase Bactosol 

MTO for organic cotton processing. He discussed 

about the special areas of hydrophilic silicones 

and lubricants offered by Clariant. Specialty areas 

such as ultra low formaldehyde based binders; antimicrobial 

solutions and the non-PFOA concept of 

fl uorocarbons were discussed. 

Varanasi, August 22, 2008 

Here, Mr. Anjani K. Prasad, said that Clariant has 

developed cost effective processing packages for 

dyeing, printing and fi nishing chemicals. Clariant 

not only helps in setting-up the processes or the 

chemistry involved for textile processing, but 

also updates its customers on the “how-to-doit” 

ecologically, economically, effi ciently and in 

an environment friendly manner. He stressed on 

Clariant’s role in reaching out to its customers as 

well as their end-consumer. 

Mr. Anup K. Baranwal (Authorised distributor, CCIL - Textile Business) 

started looking after the family business at the tender age of 16 years when his 

father fell seriously ill. 

In the course he took distribution agency of Sandoz (India) Ltd. in year 

1992. The average sale of the company in Bhadohi / Mirzapur region was only 

40 lacs per annum. Mr. Baranwal gradually increased the sale to Rs. 2.35 crores 

per annum by the year 2006. The level of sale of Rs. 2 crores was maintained 

despite turbulences in the market. 

Mr. Anup’s demise has created a big vacuum in the family and it will be a 

tough task to live up to his performance. We are confi dent that in these distinct 

times his dedicated employees will maintain the momentum generated by him 

and increase the success of his company. 

We pray to the almighty to give peace to the departed soul. 

Chandigarh, July 24, 2008 

During this conference, Mr. Anjani Prasad, 

emphasized that Clariant has been playing a crucial 

role in offering technology and new products for 

value addition. Clariant has been offering ecofriendly 

dyes and chemicals. Clariant is well-known 

as a quality supplier having complete range of 

specialty chemicals for almost all the fi bers. Highly 

skilled technicians from Clariant are at arms length 

to solve day to day problems of the textile processors. 

Mr. Prasad enlightened the processors about new 

product processes, technology, innovations and 

specialty needs for exports. We believe in providing 

solutions than selling products, was his key mantra. 

He stressed on the fact that the techno economy of 

a processor is always at the back of our mind while 

making recommendations. 

Mr. Shailesh Moolya, in-charge, Technical 

Promotion of Wool/Silk/Nylon Dyes and Chemicals, 

explained in detail about the technology of silk 

processing and how Clariant is with the customer 

right from dye dissolution, printing, steaming upto 

the washing-off of silk. 

Bengaluru, August 26, 2008 

Mr. Asis Patnaik, Head, Functional Effects and 

Polymer Dispersion, Textile Business, Clariant 

Chemicals (India) Limited, spoke on the topic, 

“Polymer Dispersion – Yesterday and Tomorrow”. 

He explained about the requirements in an emulsion, 

for the future. According to Mr. Patnaik, the perfect 

product for tomorrow would include a Controlled 

Particle Size, Bimodal Particles with High Solid 

Content, Low Volatile Organic Compounds and 

Controlled Molecular Weight Products. He discussed 

the history and future of various emulsions and their 

applications including the Nano emulsions. 

Late Mr. Anup Kumar 

Baranwal 

(Proprietor, M/s. Prabha 

Colour Company). 

Left to Heavenly Abode on 

July 22, 2008.

Textiles: The Silent Witness 

Fibers 

While fabrics and fi nished textile products are 

often valuable evidence, the most important textile 

witnesses are fi bers. “Most of the information we 

learn is gathered from fi bers and threads,” says Skip 

Palenik, a Forensic Consultant, Senior Research 

Microscopist and President of Microtrace LLC. 

“Fiber evidence can be critical to investigations – 

it is not going too far to say that lives have been 

saved because of forensic fi ber examinations,” says 

Houck, Director of Forensic Science Initiative and 

Research Offi ce Manager for Forensic Research 

Business Development at the College of Business 

and Economic at West Virginia University, 

“Fibers are shed by rope, carpets, blankets, 

upholstery, and many other items,” says You-Lo 

Hsieh, Professor of Fiber and Polymer Science 

at the University of California, Davis, who also 

advises student research in the university’s forensic 

science graduate program. Fiber evidence may be 

used to corroborate witness statements, establish 

someone’s presence at the scene of a crime, or 

provide investigative leads, says Bloch. 

Palenik explains that forensic scientists rely on 

Edmond Locard’s Exchange Principle when looking 

at fi ber evidence. Simply put, the principle states 

that whenever two objects come into contact, there 

is always an exchange of material. That exchange 

of material can establish an association (or lack 

association) between two objects or persons, says 

Bloch. 

Fabrics / Garments 

Sometimes, the victim’s clothing is one of the few 

clues left to tell us what happened. “In cases where, 

the body of the victim has been buried for some years, 

and only the (victim’s) skeleton remains, elements 

of the victim’s clothing may have survived. This 

clothing can be examined for cuts and tears, bullet 

holes, and other penetration wounds. Such evidence 

may assist the coroner with establishing the cause of 

death and the weapon used,” notes Mike Pailthorpe, 

Senior Consultant for the Food and Textiles group 

of the Sydney, Australia. 

Antimicrobal Finish exhibits 

Washfastness with no 

Binder 

Sanitized Silver works by damaging the cell 

membranes and inhibiting the growth and 

reproduction of bacteria responsible for odor 

development in textiles. The fi nish was developed 

specifi cally for use on synthetic fi bers. The company 

says these fi bers, especially polyester, are the 

preferred material for sport, leisure, and work wear 

– all sectors which demand high wash resistance. It 

claims that “upto 100 washing cycles at 60°C are 

possible without 

impairing the 

hygienic function 

(of the fi nish)”. 

Sanitized Silver 

can be applied 

to the textile by 

exhaust or pad 

processes, making 

it suitable for fullyfashioned 

knitwear 

and other fabric 

or apparel. It can 

also be combined 

with other textile 

effects. 

gleanings from press 


25

26 



Wellness Fabric 

In Europe, “wellness” has evolved into a real megatrend. 

Over the years, the number of wellness 

hotels offering wellness treatments have increased. 

Restaurants put wellness dishes on their menu, 

claiming benefi cial effects for the diners’ personal 

well being. Furthermore, the number of food items 

and beverages bearing the term “wellness” in their 

names has become nearly countless. Hence, the 

creation of wellness textiles was only a matter of 

time. 

Since 2003, the textile industry has created the 

technology to construct an entire wellness fabric 

by using a “wellness fi ber.” Five years ago, this 

fi ber was presented at the Heimtextil trade show 

in Frankfurt, Germany, for the fi rst time. SeaCell 

fi bers can be generated from Lyocell, a cellulosic 

man-made fi ber, by adding fi nely-ground seaweed, 

mainly from the family of brown, red, green and blue 

algae, into the spinning solution. This wellness fi ber 

tends to be unique in its well being effect. Extensive 

clinical testing at Jena University (Germany) 

proved that minerals from the seaweed are being 

constantly released in a humid atmospheres. So are 

carotenoides and amino acids, as well as vitamins 

E and C. Owing to this behavior in wet conditions, 

SeaCell is mainly used for terry towels, bath gowns, 

shirts and blouses, socks, and sleepwear. 

Anti-aging Properties 

answer a Mania for Youth 

Vitamin E is the basis of an interesting wellness 

fi nish on textiles. Due to its ability to bind free 

radicals, vitamin E has anti-aging, moisturizing, 

and anti-oxidative abilities. Responding to the 

worldwide prevalent mania for youth, it could 

become the number one fi nish for all kinds of 

textiles and clothing: underwear and sleepwear, 

bed-linen and terry towels, blouses and stockings, 

sportwear and denim. 

However, the specifi c fi nish has not yet been 

perfected. Based on cyclodextrine technology, the 

auxiliary has to be applied via fi xation of an easy care 

resin, which unfortunately gives the textile a hand. 

Additionally, the tiny storage units of cyclodextrine 

have to be reloaded after they have delivered their 

contents to the skin. So if a consumer asks for a 

continuous dispersing of the anti-aging substance, 

he or she must reload the textile by adding a special 

compound (created by the supplier itself) to the fi nal 

rinsing bath in the washing machine. 

Indian Silk industry hit by 

Chinese ‘quake.’ 

Indian silk industry with an annual business of over 

Rs. 10,000 crore has been hit hard by the earthquake 

in the recent past in China, a major supplier of raw 

silk for the manufacturing units in the country. 

The industry claimed that hundreds of units in 

Varanasi, Bengaluru, Madurai, Coimbatore and 

Bhagalpur have closed down as the raw material 

costs of silk have gone up by upto 40 per cent 

and over one lakh persons engaged in the sector 

have lost jobs after the earthquake in the Sichaun 

province of China. Sichuan is the primary supplier 

of raw silk yarn and dupion to Indian manufacturers 

of silk products. Majority of the mulberry gardens 

have been destroyed due to the quake, which has led 

to a sharp fall in production in India. 

“The earthquake and subsequent fl oods in Sichuan 

has affected the import prices of raw material, which 

have gone up by about 30-40 per cent,” Indian Silk 

Export Promotion Council Chairman, T.V Maruthi 

said. Further, he said the industry has also been hit 

by increasing transportation costs due to hike in fuel 

prices apart from labour and other costs. 

China’s Garment Export 

Growth slows down 

From January to May this year, China exported a total 

value of $66.16 billion of textiles and garments, upto 

15.4% from the same period of last year, according 

to the Chinese Customs offi ce. Of the sum, about 

$26.07 billion was textile products, upto 26.3%, and 

$40.09 billion was garments and accessories, upto 

9.3%. The textile exports of China regained its fast 

growth, while garment exports faced a much weaker 

demand abroad. Industry players said that the weak 

overseas consumer demand had affected the cotton 

sector in China. The country imported 240,200 tons 

of cotton this May, a decrease of 23,200 tons, or 

8.81 from the previous months.

New Clariant Global Carpet Center offers 

‘Under-One-Roof’ facility for Customers 

new facility that consolidates 

A Clariant’s leading application services 

and expertise for customers in the carpet 

industry was formally inaugurated at 

Louvain-la-Neuve, south of Brussels 

in Belgium, on September 19, 2008. 

The state-of-the-art Carpet Center 

underpins Clariant’s position as a supplier 

of the full range of dyes and chemicals for 

all aspects of carpet processing (from yarn 

spinning, dyeing and printing, to fi nishing 

and backing). 

It brings the company’s colouration 

and fi nishing facilities and know-how 

under one roof, a feature that is attractive 

to customers because they can discuss the 

whole chain in carpet production at one 

place and with one company. 

Facilities include an application 

laboratory, machinery for rotary and jet 

printing, steamers, a gum applicator, 

different types of exhaust dyeing machines, 

foam application, continuous dryer, quality 

and fastness testing equipment, and a 

customer showroom with more than 300 

Feedback ? 

Send your suggestions/entries to 

sujata.pariti@clariant.com 

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited 

www.clariant.in 

carpet samples illustrating different types 

and colouration effects. 

Also at the new center, customers’ 

production processes can be imitated for 

trialing or problem solving. New products 

and developments can be demonstrated, 

and training is available. Masterbatches, 

also used in the carpet industry, is adjacent 

to the new center. 

Recent innovative developments for the 

center have included bright highfast dyes 

for jet printing, and new C6 fl uorocarbon 

products with high dry soil-release are in 

advanced stages. 

Ivan De Langhe, Head of the Clariant 

Global Carpet Center, says: “It is a great 

advantage for customers to have the 

different facilities and knowledge in one 

place. With the facilities we have, covering 

all applications in the industry, this new 

facility will be an attractive proposition for 

customers seeking one-stop solutions.” 

Belgium was chosen for the location of 

the facility because of the country’s preeminence 

in the industry – it is world’s 

biggest carpet producer after the US. 


Printed and Published by 

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited 

Design by Point-n-Pixel 

Printed by Multiple Images 

Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi 

AUSTRALIA: Lightweight 

MerinoCool Fabrics 

Launched | Source: just-style.com 

New lightweight woven fabrics 

made from Australian Merino 

fi bers were launched on September 

25, 2008 for soft tailored suits and 

separates as well as smart casual apparel. 

The MerinoCool fabrics, developed by 

Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), are 

less than 165gsm and respond naturally 

to environmental and body temperature 

changes. 

This means they keep the wearer either 

warm or cool depending on the ambient 

temperature or wearing situation and are 

suitable for year-round wear. 

AWI CEO Craig Welsh says: “Today’s 

consumers - particularly in the major 

markets of Europe, the US and Japan - 

want lightweight clothes. People want to 

feel comfortable, and in the contemporary 

built environment they don’t actually need 

clothes for protection or to keep warm.” 

More than 15 global supply chain 

partners are involved in the MerinoCool 

project, which targets the smart casual 

market in Italy, France, Japan, Korea, India 

and China. 

Editorial Co-ordinator: Sujata Pariti 

Editorial Board: Rajinikanth Prasad, Hitendra Parekh, 

Sunil Joshi, Sanjay Sathe and Sunil Kadam

Colour Chronicle - Oct 2008 - Clariant

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