Master Gardener Monthly Magazine - NMSU's College of Agriculture ...

Contents: Page 

• PLANT-OF-THE-MONTH 1-3 

Next Month: Shantung Maples 

• Planning A Water Garden 4-7 

• Tips For Wonderful Water Gardens 6-7 

• Sept. Lunch & Learn Presentation 7 

• Thanks for the Goodies 7 

• Timeline for Oct. Magazine Articles 7 

• September Honey-Do List 8-9 

• Desert Four O’Clocks 10-11 

• Organic Fertilizers 12-13 

• How Birds Fly 13-14 

• Plants That Deter Deer 14 

• Weed Watch: Hoary Cress 15-16 

• Mesilla Valley Iris Rhizome Sale 16 

• 2012 State MG Conference 16 

• ‘Strut Your Mutt’ Event 17 

• Oleander Toxicity Warning 18 

• Veggies A-Z: Turnips 19 

• Sept. Master Gardener Birthdays 20 

• Fall Master Gardener Expo 20 

• Seed/Plant Exchange 20 

• MG Matters 21-22 

• Hotline Procedures Reminder 22 

• Hotline Assignments 23 

The name of our Newsletter has 

changed. As of July 2011, it is called 

“Master Gardener Monthly Magazine”. 

Editor: Ann Shine-Ring 

Master Gardener Monthly Magazine 

• Doña Ana County Cooperative Extension Service 

• U.S. Department of Agriculture 

• NMSU College of Agricultural, Consumer and 

Environmental Sciences 

Newsletters can be downloaded at the NMSU website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg 

!!September 2011" 

Plant-of-the-Month 

Doña Ana County Extension Office 

530 North Church Street, Las Cruces, NM 88001 

Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652 

Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener 

Volume 12, Issue #9 

RED HOT POKER PLANT 

(Kniphofia Uvaria) 

Kniphofia also known as Tritoma, Red Hot Poker, 

Torch lily, or Poker plant is a genus of plants in the 

family Xanthorrhoeaceae, subfamily Asphodeloideae, 

that includes 70 or more species native to Madagascar 

and Africa with most of the cultivated selections 

coming from South Africa. The Asphodelaceae family 

is a new family split from the overly large lily family. 

These unusual looking plants produce tall spikes of 

upright, brightly-colored, red-to-orange flowers that 

give attention-getting color and shape to any garden. 

This gives names such as "torch" and "red hot poker" 

to many of these plants. Its flowers produce copious 

nectar while blooming and are very attractive to bees, 

butterflies and/or birds and they may also attract sapsuckers 

such as hummingbirds and orioles. 

Kniphofia have been cultivated for use in gardens and do especially well at high elevations and 

in arid climates (many can be seen in the Ruidoso area). They are drought- and heat-tolerant, and 

are easy to grow and maintain, even in environments where other plants wilt. 

Characteristics. 

The Red Hot Poker plant is a striking evergreen perennial for use in a sunny border or rock 

garden. Its leaves are linear, v-shaped and are about 30 inches long with a rough-textured margin. 

They grow up from a crown of fleshy roots. In mild winters, the leaves may be semi-evergreen. 

Article Continued on Page 2 

Master Gardener Hotline Client Data 

(August 2 to August 26, 2011) 

# Total Contacts 95 Geographic Area Subject of Inquiry 

# Telephone Calls 54 Las Cruces 50 Disease 3 Shrubs 11 

# Emails 0 El Paso 1 Fertilizer 4 Soils 1 

# Issues Addressed 95 Garfield 1 Insects 16 Trees 21 

Roswell 1 Irrigation/Water 9 Vegetables 7 

Santa Fe 1 Lawns 7 Weeds 8 

Plant ID 1 Well Info. 1 

Pruning 2 Misc. 4 

Thank you to Master Gardeners Joan Lane, Janie Elliot & Valice Raffi for collecting this data. 

New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.

Master Gardener Monthly Magazine—September 2011 Page 2 of 23 

Red Hot Poker Plant—Continued from Front Page 

Characteristics. (Continued) 

In late spring and early summer, 3 to 4 foot tall scapes (i.e., 

leafless flowering stems that rise from the ground that can have a 

single flower or many flowers, depending on the species) emerge 

bearing a terminal, bottlebrush shaped cluster of orange, red, yellow 

or cream-colored blooms. Usually the top of the inflorescence will be 

orange or red while the older flowers at the base will have faded to 

yellow or cream (see photo below). 

Red Hot Poker plants can grow very tall and produce long, thin 

leaves and tubular-flowered spikes that look, when in full bloom, like 

the tip of a rocket. These plants produce spikes of hanging, red-toorange 

flowers which have flowering spikes of pale yellow, ivory, 

apricot, orange and red. All have long, sword-like basal leaves. 

Tall, dramatic Red Hot Pokers create architectural impact in sunny 

gardens. This plant flowers from the bottom upward, and its bright 

orange flowers fade to yellowish green as they age, resulting in a two 

toned spike with orange flowers at the top and yellowish ones below. 

Flowers are produced from May through October in most locations. 

Deadheading encourages the plant to produce new flowers. The 

flowers are popular with nectar-feeding hummingbirds, butterflies and 

moths. 

History. 

Kniphofia plants are named for Johannes Hieronymus Kniphof, an 

18th-century German botanist and medical doctor. These plants are 

related to Aloes with some Red Hot Poker plants having thick, 

succulent leaves like an aloe plant, though others have thin spikes for 

leaves. 

The Kniphofia species is native to South Africa's Drakensberg 

Mountains where it grows as a wildflower producing large fields of 

thousands of vibrant plants in mid-to late-summer. 

Brought to England in 1707, these plants were kept as greenhouse 

treasures until 1848, when someone had the bright idea of planting 

them outdoors, and their abiding hardiness was discovered. 

Care Considerations. 

Although hardy in dry environments or at higher elevations, Red 

Hot Pokers need moderately rich, well-draining soil and do best in full 

sun or partial shade with adequate water during the growing season. 

If the plants get too dry over the summer, they will fail to bloom. Most 

varieties are hybrid selections. They need a humus-rich soil that is 

well-drained and light. 

Article Continued on Page 3 

Red Hot Poker Plant FACTS 

Family: Xanthorrhoeaceae SubFamily: Asphodeloideae 

Category: Evergreen Perennials 

Other Names: Torch lily/flower, Tritoma, Poker plant 

Height: 2 to 5 feet tall 

Spacing: 1 foot 6 inches up to 2 feet wide 

Foliage: Herbaceous 

Bloom Color: Red, Bright Yellow, Orange, Cream 

Leaf Color: Green 

Shape: Irregular or sprawling 

Bloom Time: May through October; repeat flowering 

throughout the growing season. 

Hardiness: USDA Zones 5-10 

Sun Exposure: Full Sun or partial sun 

Landscape Uses: Containers, flower beds & borders; flower 

spikes seems to glow; very attractive foliage; use as accent with 

grasses or sprawling blue or purple plants; provides dramatic 

display when grown in a space where the entire plant is visible; 

plant in space directly in front of an evergreen background, or as 

a 'stand alone' specimen. 

Special Features: Fall color provides winter interest; an 

excellent cut flower; flowers are hermaphrodite 

(both male and female organs) 

Pests/Other: Protect plant from slugs and snails; some 

occasional problems are stem and crown rot 

Wildlife: Attractive to bees, moths, butterflies and/or 

birds; may attract sap-suckers such as 

hummingbirds and orioles; deer resistant 

Water Needs: Drought-tolerant; water regularly but do not 

overwater. 

Fertilizer/Mulch: Use composted yard clippings; during 

plant’s first winter, be sure to mulch with 

straw or leaves. 

Soil pH Req: 6.6 to 7.5 (neutral) 

Propagation: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs 

(including offsets); from seed; sow indoors 

before last frost 

Seed Collecting: Allow seedheads to dry on plants; remove 

and collect seeds; properly cleaned, seed 

can be successfully stored; seeds can be 

started indoors about 6 weeks before 

outdoor planting time.


Red Hot Poker Plant–Continued From Page 2 

Care Considerations.(Continued) 

These plants benefit from winter protection by mulching. It’s 

recommended to tie the foliage stalks together during winter 

months to prevent excess snow and water from seeping into the 

plants' crown. Another option is to cut the plant down to the base in 

the fall. Any remaining dead foliage should be removed in the 

spring. 

Good drainage is needed to prevent crown rot. The perennial 

plant develops into large clumps that can spread to up to 3 feet 

across. The clumps are easily divided to create new plants. They 

are hardy in U.S.D.A, Zones 5 through 10, essentially everywhere 

but the northernmost reaches of the upper Midwest and New 

England. Plants are hardy to Zone 5 but are more likely to survive 

long-term in areas with somewhat milder winters. 

Red Hot Poker plants rarely suffer from insect or disease 

problems. They should be grown in sunny locations with welldrained 

soils. If planted in a good site, clumps continue to expand. 

New plants can be easily raised from seed with flowers 

usually produced in the second season. Division of older clumps 

can be done but should be delayed until the spring just before new 

growth starts. 

Propagation. 

Red Hot Pokers can be grown from seed planted directly in 

gardens or started indoors for transplanting to gardens later. Seeds 

should be covered lightly with 1/4 inch of fine garden or potting soil. 

Transplant seedlings when they reach 2 inches in height, with 18 to 

24 inches of space between plants. 

Separate new growth from established plants and re-plant them 

elsewhere in the spring or fall. Do not plant the new plant's crown 

deeper than three inches.! 

Article References 

About Red Hot Poker Plants on ehow.com at link: 

http://www.ehow.com/about_6400146_red-hot-pokerplants.html#ixzz1UGEQ5lZ7 

Better Homes & Gardens Plant Dictionary at link: 

http://www.bhg.com/gardening/plantdictionary/perennial/red-hot-poker/ 

Desert Tropicals: Red Hot Poker, Torch Lily, Poker Plant at link: 

http://www.deserttropicals.com/Plants/Liliaceae/Kniphofia_uvaria.html 

Easy Bloom: Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia), Torch Flower, Tritoma, 

at link: http://www.easybloom.com/plantlibrary/plant/redhot-poker-2 

Flower Encyclopedia: Red Hot Poker at link: 

http://www.iflorist.co.uk/p-1481-red-hot-poker.aspx 

Kniphofia at link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kniphofia 

Plant Files: Red Hot Poker on Dave’s Garden.com at link: 

http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/818/ 

Plant of the Week: Red Hot Poker at link: 

http://www.arhomeandgarden.org/plantoftheweek/articles/r 

edhot_poker_9-19-08.htm 

Plants for a Future: Kniphofia uvaria - (L.) Hook at link: 

http://www.pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Kniphofia+ 

uvaria 

Research & compilation of information for this article provided by 

Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener


Planning A Water Garden 

By Dick Hiss, Frank Connor & Ann Shine-Ring 

Certified Master Gardeners 

Water gardens add a new dimension to the gardening 

experience. They can be as big as acre or as small as a 

ceramic jar. Include a waterfall or a fountain and you add 

the sound dimension to your garden. Throw in a few fish 

and now you are a pet owner with the same responsibilities 

as the four-legged owners, but with no clean up. Always 

check local regulations before you begin. 

Designing an entire landscape including a pond would 

be ideal; however, the majority of the ponds installed are 

retrofitted into an existing landscape. Therefore, the 

relationship of the pond to the rest of the landscape should 

be carefully considered before beginning. Before you 

start—read, plan and think! 

Decisions To Make--Location 

Your first decision will be to decide on an appropriate 

location. Put the water garden where you can enjoy it, but 

keep these factors in mind: amount of sun (most plants 

require 6-8 hr/day), slope of the land, wind, type of soil, 

and location of water supply, safety, and electricity. Avoid 

locations under trees. Trees block light, drop leaves, sap, 

seedpods, and branches that can become a continuing 

maintenance problem. Child safety should also be 

considered. Water gardens can be a special learning 

center for children especially if there are fish, frogs, turtles, 

butterflies, and birds. 

Decisions To Make—Size & Shape 

Next is size and shape. In both cases it doesn’t matter. 

Whatever you are comfortable with and whatever you can 

afford. Above ground, in-ground, and raised (part above 

part below), all will work. Just dig it, line it and fill it. Wow, 

maybe size does matter! If you plan to add fish, a depth of 

24” will allow for adequate hiding areas from predators. 

Decisions To Make—Fish 

Selection of fish is a matter of choice. Goldfish are 

cheap, and come in a wide selection of varieties. Koi are 

expensive, live a long time and can grow to two feet in 

length or more. They also like to eat plants, so be careful 

what plants you select. A mix of plants ensures a thriving 

self-sustaining system Cover 60-70 percent of the pond 

surface with floating plants and container plants with 

floating foliage like water lilies. 

Decisions To Make—Choice of Water Plants 

Plant selection for the pond is, of course, one of the major design 

considerations. As most ponds are retrofitted into an existing landscape, the 

plant material chosen for the pond must be in concert with existing plants in the 

landscape. Some design aspects to keep in mind when attempting to match or 

contrast the pond to your landscape are: overall plant texture, color and length 

of bloom, foliage type and texture (including the effects of variegation), height, 

evergreen vs. deciduous, and overall form. 

Water plants can be divided into four categories: 

#1 Submerged Plants and Oxygenators add oxygen during the day and 

remove it at night. They can spread rapidly and can take over a pond if not 

‘pruned’. Fanwort (Cabomba Caroliniana) is popular and winter hardy. Its fluffy 

structure provides excellent hiding for spawning. Others include Water Starwort 

(Callitriche Hermaphroditica), Water Violet (Hottonia Palustris), and Anacharis 

(Egeria Densa). 

Anacharis Fanwort 

Water Starwort Water Violet 

If you want any flowering aquatic plants such as water lilies in your pond, 

these dictate your site be in full sun for optimum flowering. Some exceptions are 

such water lily cultivars as 'Comanche' and 'Graziella', which flower with as little 

as 3 hours of direct sunlight. For best growth and establishment of all your water 

garden plants, a minimum of 5-6 hours of direct sunlight each day is 

recommended. If none of these conditions can be met, then consider a quiet, 

cool bog garden. Far from a dark, dank, mosquito infested swamp, a properly 

designed and maintained bog garden (see photo below) can be a cool green 

retreat in a shady summer garden. (Article Continued on Page 5)


Planning A Water Garden—Continued From Page 4 

Decisions To Make—Choice of Water Plants 

#2. Floating Plants require only water. Just drop them in and they start filtering. Most are NOT winter hardy. Examples: Water Hyacinth 

(Eichhornia Crassipes) with its small blue flowers, Common Duckweed (Lemna Minor) is the smallest flowering plant in the world. Goldfish 

and Koi love it and they help keep it from taking over the pond. Parrotfeather (Myriophyllum aquaticum) is another popular plant that will 

survive winter. 

Water Hyacinth Duckweed Parrotfeather 

#3. Deep Water Plants grow from submerged crowns and have adapted to water with floating leaves and flowers. Water Snowflake 

(Nymphoides spp.) has small yellow or white flowers. Painted white water snowflake (N. cristata) has leaves heavily painted in burgundy 

and white starshapped, lightly fringed flowers. Hardy Water lilies will survive in our climate but Tropical Water lilies will not. 

Water Snowflake Painted White Water Snowflake Hardy Water Lily 

#4. Marginals grow in shallow water or in moist soil around the perimeter of the water garden. The largest selection of water plants falls within 

this group. Examples: Orange, Red, Pink, or Yellow Canna (Canna sp.), Black Magic Taro (Colocasia sp), Dwarf Umbrella Palm (Cyperus 

alternifolius), and Iris (Iris pseudacorus). 

Yellow Canna Red Canna Black Magic Taro 

Dwarf Umbrella Palm Iris (Iris pseudacorus) 

Article Continued on Page 6


Planning A Water Garden—Continued from Page 5 

Decisions To Make—Choice of Water Plants (Continued) 

The choice of other plants to surround your pool should be of a 

character that their reflection acts drama to the pool. Colorful flowers, 

attractive bark or fluted trunks, or other winter aspects can add to 

seasonal interests. Avoid plants such as walnuts and willows that have 

leaves with allelopathic (i.e., beneficial or harmful effects of one plant on 

another plant) characteristics. 

Another important factor—select plants that are not “water spenders”. 

That is plants that use a lot of water which is wasteful. Use plants that 

are native or adapted to our area since there are so many beautiful 

drought-tolerant plants available here. 

Decisions To Make—Choice of Filter 

A good filter for your pond will keep your maintenance to a minimum. 

Filtration is used in backyard ponds to achieve clear water and healthy 

water for fish. There are three basic ways of filtering pond water: 1) 

mechanical, 2) biological, and 3) U.V. Mechanical filtration is collecting 

suspended particles/ debris/ algae etc. on some type of media such as 

foam, brushes, beads, etc. by pushing/ pulling water through it where it 

can be removed by backwashing, manually cleaning or draining. 

Examples of mechanical filtration include skimmer nets or baskets, filter 

pads in skimmers, pre-filters on pump intakes and the first "chamber" or 

point of water entry in a biological filter. The result of proper mechanical 

filtration is improvement of water clarity. 

Biological filtration encourages the growth of aerobic (oxygen - 

dependent) bacteria colonies. These bacteria assist in breaking down 

organic waste that occurs naturally in an outdoor pond. This naturally 

occurring organic waste is made up of fish waste, old growth from pond 

plants, and material that gets blown or washed into the pond. All ponds 

will grow these beneficial bacteria without any human assistance. They 

grow/colonize on nearly any surface in the pond, waterfall, filter, etc as 

long as there is water with oxygen levels high enough to support them. 

Since they thrive on oxygen they grow best near moving water. 

U.V. (or ultraviolet light) filtration utilizes a high intensity ultraviolet 

light to destroy unwanted cells or organisms in pond water. Water is 

pushed/pulled through housing or a chamber. The U.V. lamp in the 

chamber is protected from water by a sealed glass tube. The glass is 

high quality quartz which allows a maximum amount of light to pass 

through it. As water passes by the lamp, suspended algae cells are 

irradiated making them incapable of reproduction, eventually eliminating 

them entirely. This ensures very clear water. Proper flow rates are 

critical for proper functioning. Water passed by the lamp at slower flow 

rates will kill larger organisms such as parasites and bacteria that may 

attack fish. They have no effect on beneficial bacteria colonies since 

they are attached to surfaces and do not pass through the filter in free 

flowing water. (Article Continued on Page 7) 

7 TIPS FOR A WONDERFUL WATER GARDEN 

Garden Gate Magazine, October 2008 

Water gardens add a new dimension to any garden. 

Thinking of adding a pond to your own garden or wondering 

how you can spruce up the one you have? Check out these 

seven tips to make your pond as attractive and beautiful as 

the one shown above. 

#1—Shade Is Okay: When you think of water gardens, you 

often think of plants like water lilies. But, most aquatic plants 

need at least four hours of direct sun each day to bloom. If 

you don’t have much sun, look for shade-loving perennials to 

plant around the pond instead. Hosta, bergenia, perennial 

geranium and astilbe all look great near a pond (whatever its 

size) and don’t need a lot of light. Another shade bonus? 

Less algae grows in the water in shade. 

#2—Tree Trouble: While shade is nice, deciduous trees 

directly over a pond can be a real pain. Falling leaves cause 

water quality problems if they aren’t removed promptly. They 

can sink to the bottom and decompose, robbing the water of 

valuable oxygen. Be sure to keep a skimmer handy so you 

can get rid of leaves daily, if needed. 

#3—Pond Placement: While it’s tempting to put a pond in the 

middle of an empty space, it can look artificial there. Find a 

place in your yard where water seems appropriate. After all, 

you don’t usually see ponds on a hillside. Instead, tuck it in 

near the garden’s edge so it’s a part of the whole yard. Placed 

near a border filled with perennials and shrubs, a pond will 

have a seemingly seamless fit and will look fantastic. 

#4—Maximize Your Enjoyment: If you’re going to go to all 

the work of installing a pool, you will want to get the most out 

of it. So make sure it’s placed where you’ll see it often. The 

one shown above is place near a bench and path so there will 

be plenty of opportunities to enjoy the view. 

#5—Go Natural: Help your pond fit into its surroundings by 

giving it a natural look. How? Plant right up to the edge of 

your container. That way, there will be no shortage of 

interesting foliage. 

#6—How Low To Go: In general, it’s a good idea to keep the 

height of the plants nearest the pond’s edge down low. That 

way you have a good view of your pond no matter where you 

are. And if you are walking nearby, you want to be able to 

see where you are going. It’s always a good idea to work in a 

few taller plants to add variety and keep it interesting. 



BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY 

“LUNCH & LEARN” PRESENTATION 

Date: Thursday, September 15 

Time: 12:00-1:00 p.m. 

Place: Branigan Memorial Library 

Location: Roadrunner Meeting Room 

Speaker: Alex Mares, New Mexico State Parks 

Ranger and Naturalist/Tour Guide 

Topic: Plants and People: Survival Strategies of 

Southwestern Desert Peoples 

Synopsis: A discussion about native and non-native 

plants and people, their inter-dependence 

and relationships from the Desert Archaic 

period through the Present. Emphasis will be 

on the Chihuahua Desert region. 

This presentation has been approved for one-hour of 

education credit for all MGs attending. 

Information provided by 

Sylvia Hacker, Certified Master Gardener 

MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES 

We appreciate your thoughtfulness 

September Goodies October Goodies 

B. G. Hosie Juliet Williams 

Mona Nelson Hope Movsesian 

Joan Woodward Mary Ozenne 

The deadline for submitting articles and 

information for the October 2011 MG Monthly 

Magazine will be Friday, September 30 th. 

Contact Info: Ann Shine-Ring, Editor 

asring@hughes.net 

(575) 640-7177 

Tips for a Wonderful Water Garden (Cont. from Page 6) 

#7—Two For One: Speaking of walking near the pond, the photo 

above shows how this water feature cuts through a natural traffic 

pattern. But that’s no reason not to put it there. Redirecting the path 

around this pond would have look awkward. So why not 

incorporate the path near the pond? You can get closer to the 

water this way and these “floating” plants are very dramatic. 

You will be proud of creating such a beautiful and wonderful 

asset to your yard. It’s something you should be able to enjoy all 

year long.! 

Planning A Water Garden 

References: 

All About Building Waterfalls, Pools and Streams by Meredith 

Books, Ortho 2006 

Beautiful Plants, Water and Mulch for a Waterwise Garden, Birds & 

Blooms Magazine, July 2011 

Creating Water Gardens by Meredith Books, Ortho 2003 

Easy Care Water Garden Advice, Backyard Living, May 2008 

Water Gardening in Texas: Design Consideration, Texas A & M 

Cooperative Extension at Link: http://aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/watergarden/pla 

nt.html 

Water Gardening in Texas: Plant Life, Texas A & M Cooperative 

Extension at Link: http://aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/watergarden/pla 

nt.html


Dixie’s Honey-Do List for September 

Much of our suggested garden task information comes directly from Month-by-Month 

Gardening in the Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002). We wanted you to know that 

this is an outstanding gardening resource book. Also, some of our recommendations 

come from Southwest Planting Tips by the Month and the Tucson Gardening Calendar 

both of which are produced by the Tucson Botanical Gardens. 

GENERAL: Now is the time of year when the days are still hot and it’s tempting to just kick back in a lawn chair or hammock, but take 

time to remain involved in your yard and garden. Plants are thirsty and many are at the critical stage of peak production or almost ready 

to harvest. (Backyard Living, August/September 2008). 

ORNAMENTALS 

• Sow seeds of California poppy, columbine, calendula, candytuft, and alyssum now. 

• Depending on the temperature, plant winter annuals such as dianthus, stock, snapdragons, 

pansies, bachelor buttons, nemesia, statice, wall flower, and forget-me-not. 

• Continue planting mums this month. 

• Continue to divide iris and other clumping perennials such as Shasta daisy, wood violets, 

Mexican feather grass, and other ornamental grasses. 

• Buy big, fat, healthy spring flowering bulbs now as selection is best early in the season. 

Refrigerate them in paper sacks until time to plant. Add super-phosphate or bone meal to 

planting holes. Look for daffodils, crocus, freesia, tulips, narcissus, grape hyacinth, 

hyacinth, cape tulips, harlequin flower, butterfly iris, and bugle flower. 

• Begin forcing bulbs of amaryllis and narcissus now for Christmas bloom. 

• Kalanchoes can also be forced into bloom using 12 hours of darkness per day for 4 to 6 weeks. 

• Begin your inspection, repotting, and pest control of patio plants before bringing them in for the winter. 

• Keep plants watered deeply but frequency may be reduced as temperatures fall. 

FRUIT, NUT, CITRUS & SHADE TREES 

• In the Southwest, fall is the best time to plant trees and shrubs as roots grow well in our warm 

fall soil but canopy stress is lessened by cooler temperatures and reduced wind speeds. 

• When planting trees, dig the hole only as deep as the soil depth of the container but make the 

hole 2 to 3 times wider than the container. Do not add soil amendments other than phosphorus to 

the backfill. 

• Start root pruning established trees you plan to move in midwinter. Severed roots will begin to 

regrow making a tighter root ball. 

• Reduce the frequency of irrigation to succulent trees such as willows in preparation for winter. 

• Continue deep watering pecans as nuts are still filling. 

• Black pecan aphids can cause premature leaf drop and reduce nut quality so control them with 

an appropriate insecticide. 

• Harvest fruit promptly and maintain good sanitation practices; harvest pomegranates. 

• Remove suckers from the base of trees at the point of attachment. 

• Be sure to fertilize citrus and fruit trees on Labor Day. 

VEGETABLES, FRUIT & HERBS 

• Finish planting leaf lettuces, collards, and mustard greens; plant spinach see. 

• Continue to divide mints, marjoram, oregano, and chives. 

• Plant perennial herbs such as rosemary, lavender, sage, and thyme. 

• Prune summer damage to the stems of rosemary, sage, thyme and others. 

• Fertilize perennial herbs with a side dressing of compost or regular fertilizer. 

LAWNS / TURF / ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 

• Time to seed cool season turf grasses now. 

• There is still time to lay sod of warm season species. 

• Fertilize both cool- and warm-season grasses. This will likely be the final fertilization for warm-season types 

so use a 2-1-1 formulation or something higher in P & K. 

• Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to established turf to control cool season weeds. 

• Reduce irrigation frequency to once a week, depending on temperatures.


Dixie’s Honey-Do List for September—Continued 

ROSES 

• This is a good time to evaluate the roses you already have and how well they endured 

the summer. Plants that lost over half their canes or had numerous yellowed or dying 

leaves, need to be located in a shadier or cooler place in your garden. 

• This is also a good time to plan where new bushes will be planted in early spring. 

Check out rose catalogs for plant options for our area. Consider planting one or more 

of the newer shrub roses that require less maintenance. 

• In shopping for new roses, look for plants that are rated for good heat tolerance or are 

highly recommended by local rose experts. 

• Begin to plant container-grown roses. Since our days are still hot, be sure to water 

deeply and often in order to establish the plants. 

• Roses will continue to be stressed due to continued high temperatures. Continue to 

water regularly and deeply so that your plants will recover quickly when our 

temperatures cool down. 

• Go ahead and prune lightly when the temperature dips below 100°. Be sure to take out all dead canes and remove any diseased or 

deformed canes with severe tip damage. Take off any yellowed or diseased leaves and pick up all fallen leaves around the plant. Be 

sure to discard the leaves and do not put them into your compost pile. Take out any canes that arise from below the union bud, but 

leave those that begin just above it. 

CACTI & SUCCULENTS 

• Most warm-season succulents grow fastest in late spring and slow down in the 

hottest summer weather, and then resume growing in the fall when temperatures are 

cooler. Therefore, this is an ideal time to plant most succulents, especially agaves, 

yuccas and cactus. 

• Fertilize container grown warm-season succulents now. This will be the final 

fertilization of the year for these plants. 

• Spread out a layer of compost or mulch and scratch it lightly into the soil. This should 

be all the enrichment your succulents will need for the remainder of the year. 

PESTS 

• If you have agaves that have been infected with agave snout weevil, you will experience sudden drooping of leaves with only the tight 

bud erect on the plant. If this has occurred, the plant is dead and should be removed. Prevention is difficult and there is no cure for 

this weevil, so replant with a less-susceptible species of agave. 

• If any diseases have ravaged your prickly pear or cholla, cut these plants back severely this month to an uninfected portion of the 

plant. Keep the plants well watered to encourage new growth. 

• Whiteflies may still be active, but as temperatures fall their numbers will decline. Spray with water or soapy water solution to keep the 

populations under control. Light floating row covers can also prevent large infestations on plants. 

• Continue to hose off plants frequently (only in the early morning), once or twice weekly, to control aphids and spider mites. 

• If the humidity rises, powdery mildew (a fungus disease) may show up. To prevent rampant infestation, apply a sulfur-based fungicide 

at first evidence of mildew and repeat applications as necessary. You can also make your own fungicide spray with 1-teaspoon baking 

soda, 1 quart water and a few drops of liquid soap. Before treating your plants, test the spray on a few leaves to make sure they are 

not too sensitive. 

• Mary Irish suggests some organic pesticides you can make yourself: 

— For annual weeds, use 50% alcohol/50% water solution or full strength white vinegar. For invasive weeds such as Bermuda 

grass, use 12.5% white vinegar, 12.5% lemon extract in 75% water. These are contact herbicides so spray weeds thoroughly 

and avoid contact with desirable vegetation. 

— To kill ants, cut up the rind of 1 or 2 oranges and blend in blender with enough water to make slurry. Pour slurry onto anthill. The 

volatile oils permeate the hill, killing the ants. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

• Depending on the weather, continue a deep watering schedule for everything about every 7 to 10 days.


DESERT FOUR--0--CLOCKS 

(Mirabilis multiflora) 

Four O'Clock Family (Nyctaginaceae) 

Desert four o'clocks’ (Mirabilis multiflora) name Mirabilis comes from 

the Latin meaning "marvelous" or "wonderful," a reference to the beauty 

of this plant. Multiflora means "many-flowered" in reference to the 

numerous flowers that can cloak the plants. These hardy perennials 

grow from an underground tuber that blooms open in one color and 

fades to another as they age. It is a spreading plant which can cover a 

5-foot space. In the fall as soon as the first frost hits, the tops die down 

to its roots and dry up and there is nothing to show where the plant was. 

Next spring the new shoots will appear. 

Also known as Showy four o'clocks this plant family (Nyctaginaceae) 

contains 28 genera and about 250 species. Most are distributed in the 

tropics and subtropics of both the northern and southern hemispheres. 

The largest genus of the family is Mirabilis with about 60 species. 

These plants form large clumps from multiple stems, are 1-3 feet tall 

and as broad or broader. The dark green leaves are opposite and are 

round to egg-shaped—at times they appear heart-shaped—with short 

petioles. The leaves and stems may be either smooth or have sticky 

hairs. The leaves vary from 3/4” to 7” long and are often pointed at the 

tip. When the leaves first shoot, they are purple and then turn green. 

Many flowers are borne in small clusters in the leaf axils—the space 

where the leaves join the stem. The funnel-shaped flowers protrude 

from a papery floral cup made up of greenish bracts (modified leaves) 

that resemble floral sepals. Desert four o'clocks do not have petals, 

rather they have colorful sepals which are petal-like in appearance and 

fused together into a funnel-shaped flower. 

In its full afternoon glory, a wild Desert four o’clock has few rivals. A 

mature plant will have hundreds of magenta-pink flowers open at one 

time! This short grass prairie wildflower is a xeric species with an 

enormous, deep-growing taproot. Plant it in any soil, even clay, where it 

will get plenty of sun and heat. Once established, it grows best when 

given very little extra irrigation. 

Interesting Characteristics: 

This useful Venus plant releases its scent at night and can have 

heart-shaped leaves. It is perennial in frost-free areas; otherwise, 

consider it an annual. The numerous purplish pink flowers are 1-3” long 

and 1”wide. They bloom throughout spring and summer, especially 

after a rain, and open in the afternoon or on cloudy days. 

Interesting Characteristics (Continued): 

These plants produce a wealth of blossoms that cover it 

from April to September, especially after rains. The fruit is a 

small dark seed that is often held in the papery floral cup, 

long after the blossoms have faded. Like the common name 

indicates, Desert four o'clocks bloom in the late afternoon 

and are open throughout the night. They may not open 

exactly at 4:00 p.m. and can open in the morning on cloudy 

days—the clouds fool them into thinking it’s later in the 

afternoon. 

Hawkmoth on Desert Four O’Clocks 

The flowers release a musky aroma several hours after 

opening. This attracts hawkmoths (see above photo), the 

primary pollinator of these flowers. A hawkmoth can unfurl 

its long proboscis to suck up nectar that forms at the base of 

the funnel-shaped flower. In the morning, bees may linger in 

the floral tube, but they have little to do with pollination. The 

bees are more after pollen for themselves. 

Uses and Notes of Interest: One of the most spectacular 

flowers of pinyon-juniper woodland, this native Desert four 

o'clocks is at least as showy as its domestic cousins from 

the tropics, and it has all the advantages of a hardy 

perennial as well. The dark green foliage of this sprawling 

plant makes a fine backdrop for the large magenta flowers 

that occur in amazing profusion all summer long. This plant 

will flower the first year from seed, growing quickly into a 

large, blossom-studded clump. It dies back to the ground in 

winter, but in early summer the following year shoots 

emerge from an underground storage tuber that grows 

bigger each year. The one-seeded fruits are borne at the 

base of each flower and are held inside the "cup" after the 

flowers wither. They are marble shaped, black with tan 

stripes, about the size of a pea. The seeds may be collected 

by dumping out the "cups" into a paper bag. 



Desert Four O’Clocks—Continued From Page 10 

Habitat: Desert four o'clocks grow in pinyon-juniper woodlands or in 

blackbrush shrublands. They can grow on the ground or in small 

crevices in rock formations where there is suitable soil. These native 

plants are found from 2,300-7,500 feet in elevation, in the southwestern 

states, southern California and Mexico. 

Native Uses: Native Americans have used this plant for dyes or 

medicinal properties, both in prehistoric times and modern day. The 

Navajos boiled the flowers to make a light brown or purple color for 

dying wool. The Hopis used the roots of older plants to make a bloodstrengthening 

tea for pregnant women. Teas were also made to treat 

colic, eye infections, muscle soreness, body swellings, rheumatism and 

indigestion. The Acoma and Laguna pueblo tribes dried the leaves for 

smoking material, and some say the plant has a sedative property. 

Navajos use the flowers for dye, and Hopis make a tea out of the roots 

for pregnant women. Pueblo Indians dried and smoked the leaves, 

which are supposed to be sedative. Hopi medicine men also chewed 

the large roots for purposes of divination. 

Don't confuse this plant with the widely known Four O'Clock or 

Jalap; that plant causes violent vomiting if ingested. The Desert four 

o’clocks plant has no known negative effects. 

Growing Desert Four O'Clocks: To break seed dormancy, put them in 

a small thermos filled with very hot water, and let them stay in there for 

two days. Then rinse and sow. Seeds can take several weeks to sprout. 

They like full sun and loose, dry, sandy soil—this is a good plant for 

xeriscaping. They do not like to sit in water or to grow in clay. If you live 

in an area with frost, consider them an annual or lift the roots in the fall 

like begonias. This is a tap-rooted plant, which means it gets usually 

one long main root; the deeper the soil, the bigger roots you will get and 

the healthier plant you will have. Harvest roots in the fall, when they are 

fattest, just after the first frost. The roots are brittle and have to be dug 

up carefully by hand rather than pulled or forked up. Wash them 

thoroughly and dry in the sun before storage. First-year roots can weigh 

up to one pound each. 

Storing Seeds: Store seeds in a small covered glass jar in the 

refrigerator; you can keep them in paper packets in there (NOT thick 

plastic). Keep them dry. One way to ensure dryness is to use a silica gel 

pack, which you can purchase from craft stores. You can also use a 

tablespoon or so of instant dried milk in a coffee filter to absorb moisture 

in the jar. 

. 

Storing Seeds (Continued) 

Another good method to preserve moisture is the white crystal 

kitty litter wrapped in a paper towel or a coffee filter. Seeds kept 

cool and dry will remain viable for a couple years, although 

tropical seeds are sometimes very short-lived and only last a 

few months, if that. When you want to take some seeds out of 

storage, let the jar or whatever you've got them in come to room 

temp before opening it; that keeps condensation from forming 

on your seeds. Moisture and warmth are what you want for 

germination, but they are devastating on seed storage; you want 

cold and dry. When you are ready to plant, you can test for 

keepers by putting the seeds to soak in water overnight. Throw 

out the ones that are floating after 24 hours.! 

Desert Four O’Clocks FACTS 

Other Names: Colorado four o'clocks, Showy four o’clocks 

Distribution: Southern California, Nevada and Utah south 

to northern Mexico 

Habitat: Creosote bush, blackbrush and pinyon-juniper 

communities 

Habit: Sprawling perennial herb from massive tuber 

Height: 0.5-1 inches Spread: 2-5 feet 

Foliage Color: Deep green 

Leaves: Large, succulent, spade-shaped 

Flower Color: Magenta 

Bloom Season: Mid to late summer 

Hardiness: Prefers full sun and well-drained soils. Fully 

cold-hardy; drought hardy (i.e., needs no 

supplemental water once established); 

somewhat tolerant of overwatering. 

Culture: Its seeds are dormant, require 8-12 weeks of 

moist chilling to become germinable, and will germinate in 

chilling. The germinated seeds should be planted in elongate 

containers to accommodate the long storage tubers that soon 

begin to form. Container-grown plants tend to look weak but 

usually take right off once planted out. The large seeds should 

be planted about a half-inch deep in fall seedlings for spring 

emergence. 

REFERENCES 

Desert Four O’clocks at link: http://www.alchemyworks.com/mirabilis_multiflora.html 

Desert Four-O-Clocks Fact Sheet at link: 

http://www.xmission.com/~unps/plant%20data%20base/plant 

%20sheets/mirabmulti.html 

High Country Gardens, Mirabilis multiflora at link: 

http://www.highcountrygardens.com/catalog/product/70345/ 

Showy Four O'clocks, Mirabilis multiflora on DesertUSA.com at 

link: http://www.desertusa.com/mag00/feb/papr/4oclock.html 

Wildflowers of New Mexico at link: 

http://gardeningfromthegroundup.us/Plant%20lists/Wildflower 

s%20of%20New%20Mexico.htm 

Article Suggested by Sylvia Hacker, Certified MG 

Research & compilation of information for this article provided by 

Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener


ORGANIC FERTILIZERS 

Colorado State University Extension, CMG Garden Notes #234, Dec. 2008 

Authors: Adrian Card, David Whiting, and Carl Wilson (Colorado State University 

Extension) and Jean Reeder, Ph.D., (USDA-ARS, retired) 

This article states that, “By legal definition, the term fertilizer refers to a 

soil amendment that guarantees the minimum percentages of nutrients (at 

least the minimum percentage of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash). 

An organic fertilizer refers to a soil amendment derived from natural 

sources that guarantees, at least, the minimum percentages of nitrogen, 

phosphate, and potash. Examples include plant and animal by-products, 

rock powders, seaweed, inoculants, and conditioners. These are often 

available at garden centers and through horticultural supply companies. 

These should not be confused with substances approved for use with 

the USDA National Organic Program (NOP). The USDA NOP, with its 

“USDA Organic” label, allows for the use of only certain substances. The 

Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI at www.omri.org) approves 

brand name products made with ingredients from the “National List” for use 

with the NOP. (For details refer to www.ams.usda.gov/nop and click “NOP 

Regulations” and then “National List 234-1Information”). Many of the 

organic fertilizers listed in this article will meet NOP standards (based on 

the National List). Growers participating in the NOP should consult with 

their certifier to ensure compliance for organic certification. 

The terms soil amendment refers to any material mixed into a soil. 

Mulch refers to a material placed on the soil surface. By legal definition, 

soil amendments make no legal claims about nutrient content or other 

helpful (or harmful) affects it will have on the soil and plant growth. In 

Colorado, the term compost is also unregulated, and could refer to any 

soil amendment regardless of active microorganism activity. 

Many gardeners apply organic soil amendments, such as compost or 

manure, which most often do not meet the legal requirements as a 

“fertilizer” but add small amounts of nutrients. 

Release Time: Organic products require activity of soil micro-organisms 

before nutrients are available for plant uptake. Micro-organism activity is 

generally dependant on soil temperatures greater than 500°F in the 

presence of sufficient soil moisture. Dry and/or cold soil conditions will 

delay the release of nutrients from these organic sources. This period 

refers to how long these products are available if applied to the soil. Use 

this information to time the application of the product. 

Application: Different products may be applied in various ways. Some 

may be tilled in (worked into the soil with a machine or hand tool), others 

may be applied as a foliar spray (mixed with a surfactant and sprayed in a 

fine mist on the leaf surface while temperatures are below 80°F), and 

some may be injected into a drip or overhead irrigation system (i.e., 

fertigation with a siphon mixer). Application rates in this fact sheet are 

generalized and based on some manufacturers’ recommendations. Overor 

under-fertilization may occur using these recommendations. 

PLANT BY-PRODUCTS 

Alfalfa Meal or Pellets: Often used as animal feed. 

Primarily they are used to increase organic matter in the 

soil but do offer nutrients and a high availability of trace 

minerals. They contain trianconatol, a natural fatty-acid 

growth stimulant. 

Corn Gluten Meal Materials: These have a high 

percentage of nitrogen. These carry a warning to allow 

1 to 4 months of decomposition in the soil prior to seeding. 

Allelopathic properties will inhibit the germination of seeds. 

However, there is no danger to established or transplanted 

plants. This product is also marketed as a pre-emergent 

weed control for annual grasses in bluegrass lawns. 

Cottonseed Meal: A rich source of nitrogen. Buyers should 

be aware that many pesticides are applied to cotton crops 

and residues tend to remain in the seeds. Pesticide-free 

cottonseed meal is available. 

Soybean Meal: Used primarily as an animal feed product. 

Available bagged at many feed stores. 

Animal By-Products 

Bat Guano (High N): Bat feces is harvested from caves 

and is powdered. It can be applied directly to the soil or 

made into a tea and applied as a foliar spray or injected into 

an irrigation system. 

Bat Guano (High P): Same as above but difference is that 

it is processed for high phosphorus content. 

Blood Meal: Made from dried slaughterhouse waste, it is 

one of the highest non- synthetic sources of nitrogen. If 

over-applied it can burn plants with excessive ammonia. 

Bone Meal: A well-known source of phosphorus, bone 

meal is steam-processed and widely available at feed 

stores and in garden centers. If purchased at feed stores, 

P is expressed on the label as elemental phosphorus and is 

2.3 times higher than numbers shown on garden center 

labels for phosphate (i.e., 12% phosphate is the same as 

27% phosphorus). However, recent university research has 

shown that P from bone meal is only available to plants in 

soils that have a pH below 7.0. 

Feather Meal: Sourced from poultry slaughter, feather 

meal has fairly high nitrogen levels but is slow to release 

the N. 

Fish Emulsion: Infamous for its foul smell, emulsions are 

soluble, liquid fertilizers that have been heat and acid 

processed from fish waste. 

Enzymatically Digested Hydrolyzed Liquid Fish: 

May be using enzymes to digest the nutrients from fish 

wastes instead of using heat and acids. This retains more 

of the proteins, enzymes, vitamins and micronutrients than 

emulsions. 

Fish Meal: Ground and heat dried fish waste. 

Fish Powder: Dried with heat and turned into water-soluble 

powder. It is a high source of nitrogen. Many can be mixed 

into solution and injected into an irrigation system. 

Article Continues on Page 13


Organic Fertilizers—Continued From Page 12 

Animal By-Products (Continued) 

Compost, Manure & Biosolid-Based Products: For information on 

biosolids, worm casting, manure, and compost, refer to the following 

CMG GardenNotes at Link: www.cmg.colostate.edu 

#241 Soil Amendments 

#242 Using Manure in the Home Garden 

#243 Using Compost in the Home Garden 

Rock Powders: 

Rock powders relevant for use in Colorado soils are those that supply 

phosphorus. Those that serve as a potassium source (greensand, 

feldspar, potassium sulfate, biotite, etc.) are not necessary as Colorado 

soils are naturally high in potassium. Similarly, it is not necessary to add 

calcium (gypsum, lime, etc.) due to naturally high calcium levels in 

Colorado soils and arid conditions. 

If you are making annual applications of manure and/or compost to 

your garden to add nitrogen, you should have sufficient levels of 

phosphorus in your soil. If you are applying manure or compost to your 

garden based on P needs, you might have an excess N supply. Excess 

N can lead to poor flower/fruit development. 

Colloidal Phosphate – a.k.a. Soft Rock Phosphate: This product is 

made by surrounding clay particles with natural phosphate. Total 

phosphate is about 20% while available phosphate is about 2-3%. This 

is why you can apply large amounts of colloidal phosphate, as it will 

release slowly over the years (usually more available the second year 

than the first). For home gardeners the cost/return is adequate to apply 

colloidal phosphate at rates to supply phosphorus for this season’s 

crops. This product also adds micronutrients to soil. 

Micronized (passing through 1000 mesh screen [1000 wires per 

square inch]) sources may be more available than regular soft rock 

grinds in soils with a pH below 7.0. 

Sea Weed 

Kelp is the most common form and is valued not for its macronutrient 

(N, P, and K) contributions but for micronutrients, trace minerals, amino 

acids and vitamins plus growth hormones that stimulate plant cell 

division. Kelp is often mixed with fish products to enhance growth. 

Three processes are available: extracts (as kelp meal or powder), 

cold-processed (usually liquid) and enzymatically digested (liquid). 

Ranked in quality of content and plant availability they are (highest to 

lowest),1) enzymatically digested, 2) cold-processed and 3) extracts. 

Kelp Meal: A product of the ocean, it is used primarily as a trace 

mineral source. It is often combined with fishmeal to add N-P-K value. 

Kelp Powder: Similar to kelp meal but ground fine enough to put into 

solution and applied as a foliar spray or injected into an irrigation 

system. 

Liquid Kelp: Usually cold-processed, liquid kelp will have higher levels 

of growth hormones than extracts. Some may also be enzymatically 

digested, making the growth hormones even more available to the 

plants.! 

Certified MG, Mike Lee recommends Gro-Power 5-3-1 Granular 

Fertilizer, an organic fertilizer, available at Enchanted Gardens. 

This Guide is available for download at link: 

http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/234.pdf 

It is also available at the Master Gardener Hotline Library 

—HOW BIRDS FLY— 

By George Harrison in Birds & Blooms, September 2010 

Who hasn’t wanted to fly like a bird” And who hasn’t wondered 

how sparrows, storks, swallows and all the rest accomplish this 

mysterious miracle. Flying is a complicated process, but to simplify 

it a bit, take note of these four advantages that get birds up in the 

air, and keep them there, too! 

Weight. Evolution has rid birds of useless weight. They have 

hollow bones, no teeth or jaw, and very light feet. 

Design: Birds have low air resistance. In flight, their heads, necks 

and bodies are positioned to zip through the air, while their feet are 

tucked into their feathers or stretched out behind. 

Strength: Strong, efficient muscles attached to a rigid skeleton 

keep birds both airborne and moving forward. 

Power: A bird’s metabolic rate is high and hot, about 10 degrees 

higher than ours, giving them a super-efficient power plant that 

rapidly converts food to energy. 

Taking Wing. Next time you’re in a plane, take a look out the 

window and notice the wing. You’ll see that its leading edge is 

round and blunt. The top of the wing is curved upward or convex, 

while the trailing edge is tapered. 

The same is true of birds. In order to get over the top hump of a 

wing, the air must move faster than the air beneath, giving the bird 

lift. Lift is fine for gliding and soaring, but it doesn’t help a bird 

become airborne from the ground or from its perch in a tree. 

What gives a bird lift? Flapping, which requires that the wing 

feathers form an airtight paddle to push against the air with each 

downstroke, moving the bird forward. 

Then there’s hovering—stationary flight achieved when a bird 

holds its body still and beats its wings while opening and closing its 

tail feathers. Kingfishers and kestrels hover over their prey. 

Hummingbirds also hover, but their one-piece wings rotate from the 

shoulder, giving them amazing maneuverability in all directions. 

Aerodynamic Marvels. Wing shapes vary depending on habitat. 

Birds that live in woods and thickets, like most backyard songbirds, 

have short, rounded wings to create a brief, rapid flight. Meanwhile, 

open-country birds that require high-speed flight such as 

falcons, swallows, swifts, have long, pointed wings. 

When it comes to takeoffs and landings, propulsion alone will not 

get a bird into the air. It needs some sort of launcher. Loons and 

flamingoes require a running start. Ducks, geese and swans push 

off against the water with their feet. Long-legged birds, like storks 

and herons, bend their legs and then catapult themselves into the 

air. (See photos on next page) (Article Continued on Page 14)


How Birds Fly—Continued From Page 13 

Takeoffs and Landings. While bird flight makes sense 

from a scientific standpoint, it remains a wonder of nature that 

captivates the rest of us who can’t just take off and soar 

anytime we want. Still, that won’t stop us from marveling at 

their beauty and grace.! 

Flying Speeds of Birds. 

Here’s a look at some speeds for common birds: 

Peregrine Falcon 217 mph 

Racing Pigeon 82 mph 

Mallard Duck 65 mph 

Canadian Goose 60 mph 

Herring Gull 40 mph 

American Robin 30 mph 

PLANTS THAT DETER DEER 

Horticulture Magazine, May 2011 

Here are some characteristics of plants that help deter deer: 

UNAPPETIZING FUZZY LEAVES 

TEXTURE PLANTS Gray Yarrow 

Ferns Pincushion Flower 

Mosses Jerusalem Sage 

Ornamental Grasses Lavender 

Rose Campion 

Lamb’s Ear 

Blanket Flower 

WAXY LEAVES* CULINARY HERBS 

Bearded Iris Lavender Fennel 

Dianthus spp. Sage Curry 

California Poppy Parsley Rosemary 

Blue Hostas Bay Tree Thyme 

*deer will still eat blossoms Garlic Chives 

Onions 

CULINARY HERBS IRRITATING SAP 

Horehound Foxglove Euphorbia spp. 

Artemisia Mayapple Helleborus spp. 

Peony Echinacea Rue 

St. Johns’ Wort Bluestar 

Monkshood 

BEST REPELLENTS 

• Hands down, having a good roving dog works best. Short of 

that, store bought and homemade repellents that have 

smells—eggs, hot sauce, coyote urine—are too mild for 

gardeners to notice, but they do deter deer. One or more rain 

showers will wash these repellents away and you will have to 

reapply them. Some bold gardeners are even collecting, 

diluting and spraying their own urine—which is very cost 

effective and natural. 

• Sprinklers connected to a motion detector that sends a 

startling spray of water at deer may work for some gardeners. 

• Battery-powered attractants that then zap a deer’s nose with a 

mild shock. 

• Chemical repellents are less expensive than buying and 

installing fencing. But depending on the weather, you may 

have to reapply most repellents.!


WEED WATCH: HOARY CRESS (White Top) 

Hoary Cress Management 

NMSU Weed Management Services, Authors: Celestine A. Duncan & Mark J. Renz 

Introduction. Hoary Cress (Cardaria sp.) is also known as ‘whitetop’ or ‘little 

whitetop’. It’s a deep-rooted, creeping perennial mustard that spreads by seed and 

vegetative root growth. There are three species including lens-podded hoary Cress 

(C. chalapensis), heart-podded hoary Cress (C. draba); and globe-podded hoary 

Cress (C. pubescens). Heart-podded Hoary Cress is the most widespread of the 

three species in the United States. 

Hoary Cress is well adapted to moist sites including sub-irrigated and irrigated 

pastures and hay-fields, rangeland, and disturbed sites such as roadsides, railways, 

and ditch banks. It can also invade cropland including small grain and alfalfa 

fields. Hoary Cress may reduce crop yields, displace native plants, and reduce 

biodiversity, wildlife habitat, and forage production. This weed contains 

glucosinolates that can be toxic to cattle. Hoary Cress begins growth early in 

spring from a rhizomatous root system and flowers by April or early May. Seeds 

are produced about a month after flowering. 

Hoary Cress is native to southwestern Asia and has been introduced to every 

continent except Antarctica. It was probably introduced to North America as a 

contaminant in alfalfa seed from Turkestan in the early 1900s. 

How To Identify. The three species of Hoary Cress share similar characteristics. 

They are perennial forbs with a spreading root system from which many 6 to 24 

inch long stems are produced. Stems are generally erect but can bend over or 

“lodge” as the plant ages. Leaves are about 0.5 to 4 inches long, and 0.1 to 1.4 

inches wide with upper leaves clasping the stem. The inflorescence of Hoary 

Cress is composed of numerous small white flowers each with 4 petals about 0.1 

inch long, and 6 stamens. 

Hoary Cress species are identified by the shape of their seedpods. Globepodded 

whitetop has small purplish globe-shaped seedpods. Fruit of lens-podded 

whitetop is flat and round. Heart-podded whitetop has a heart-shaped, broad, flat 

seedpod. In all species, the seedpod is tipped with a beak that is rare in the 

mustard family. 

Reproduction & Spread. Hoary Cress spreads both by roots and seed. Root 

systems consist of deeply penetrating rhizomes with thick, corky-like bark, and 

numerous underground buds from which aboveground shoots arise. Hoary Cress 

tends to spread more by vegetative reproduction than by seed, resulting in 

scattered, sometimes dense patches. Seed production may vary with individual 

species, site characteristics, and weather conditions. Hoary Cress seeds are 

released singly through ruptures in the seedpod walls or when the entire seedpod 

breaks away from the plant. 

Reproduction & Spread (Continued) 

Seeds are spread during irrigation, by wind, 

vehicles, livestock and wildlife, seed and hay products, 

road building materials, or movement of topsoil. Hoary 

Cress seeds are about the same size as alfalfa and 

clover seeds and are often introduced as a seed 

contaminate. 

Individual plants can live at least 8 years. Heartpodded 

Hoary Cress plants contain phytotoxic 

chemicals that may inhibit germination and initial 

seedling growth of other plants in natural 

environments. This gives the weed a competitive 

advantage over desirable plants. 

Management. Hoary Cress can be controlled with 

various management techniques. Preventing 

movement of seeds and root fragments to noninfested 

sites is a critical management consideration. 

Avoid moving livestock, equipment, and vehicles 

through infestations during the seeding period. 

Annually monitor high-risk sites for invasion including 

transportation corridors, trail heads, livestock feeding 

areas, and waterways, and eradicate newly 

established plants as soon as possible. 

! HOARY CRESS FACTS ! 

• Brassicacease (Mustard Family) 

• Class A Weed 

• Perennial 

• Reproduces via both seed and root sprouts 

• Produces many heart-shaped seed pods each 

containing four seeds 

• Flowers from May to June 

• Forms dense colonies 

Description: A grayish green, minutely hairy, 

creeping perennial that can reach height of 0.5 to 2 

feet. Stems are erect and greatly branching in the 

flowering portion of the plant. Basal leaves are twolobed 

and clasp the stem. Flowers, which have four 

white petals, are borne at the top of the plant, hence 

its name ‘whitetop’. The heart-shaped seedpods are 

tipped by a slender, persistent beak. Hoary Cress 

reproduces by seed and an extensive, deeply 

penetrating root system. 

Treatment: 

• Mow or cultivate before plant flowers to reduce 

seed production 

• Chemical treatment should be done during the 

rosette to early bud stage in spring and on regrowth 

in the fall. 

• Seeding competitive grasses helps resist invasion. 

Distribution: Has been found in several New Mexico 

counties, from along highways to forest understory. 

Has also been found in irrigated pastures, rangelands, 

hay fields and other crop fields. These plants were 

introduced into the urban setting through its use as a 

filler for dry flower arrangements. 



Weed Watch: Hoary Cress—Continued From Page 15 

Management Do’s & Don’ts. 

• Physical removal must remove the plant’s root system. 

• Repeated cultivation 1 to 2 times per month for 2 to 4 years 

has proven to be effective. 

• Mowing at early flower growth stage may lower stem density 

and reduce seed production. 

• Herbicides are effective.! 

! REFERENCES ! 

Grant/Hidalgo County Noxious Weeds by Southwest New 

Mexico Cooperative Weed Management 

Hoary Cress Management by Celestine A. Duncan & Mark J. 

Renz, NMSU Weed Management Services 

New Mexico’s Invasive Weeds by Richard D. Lee, NMSU 

Cooperative Extension, 1999 

Troublesome Weeds of New Mexico by Mark Renz & Frank 

Sholedice, NMSU Cooperative Extension, 2006 

22 00 11 22 N EEW M EE XX IICO I 

MA SS TT EER GARD EEN EER CON FF EER EENC EE 

—Las Cruces, June 7-8, 2012— 

Our Conference now has a Facebook page! Updates 

and information will be posted there as they become 

available. The Planning Committee decided to try a free 

Facebook page instead of paying for a website. 

Here's the link: 

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Doña-Ana-Co-Master- 

Gardeners/111217812302104 

This page should be accessible to everyone. Please let 

Sylvia know if you're having trouble. Sylvia’s email is: 

slh303@yahoo.com 

Mesilla Valley Fall Iris Rhizome Sale 

The Mesilla Valley Iris Society will hold its fall Iris 

Rhizome Sale from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 

10 and from noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday, Sept. 11 at the 

theater entrance of the Mesilla Valley Mall, 700 South 

Telshor Blvd. 

The Sale includes more than one hundred locally grown 

iris rhizomes ready to plant in every color at excellent 

prices from $2.00 to $7.00. Instructional sheets will be 

provided with each purchase. 

To see some of the available varieties, visit link: 

http://www.zianet.com/mvis/ 

Plan to come early in order to get the best selection.


Information provided by Hope Movsesian, Certified MG


WARNING: OLEANDER TOXICITY ON THE RISE 

Source: Jornada Veterinary Clinic Website 

Oleander toxicity is on the rise with the recent hard freeze that 

occurred in southern New Mexico. Oleanders (Nerium oleander) are a 

common landscaping bush that produces a lush green leaf and beautiful 

flowers. Leaves commonly have a bitter taste, which lessens (the 

bitterness) as it dries. Toxicity can also occur when water is ingested, 

that has been contaminated with a leaf (either by water dripping off of a 

plant, or a leaf that has blown into a water bowl). 

Oleander Toxicity In Animals 

Many people are trimming and removing dead plants from their yard, 

and the leaves are being carried by the wind. A dog or cat only has to 

ingest 1 leaf to be toxic. Horses are also affected, and are often found 

dead by owners. Hay should be checked for any oleander contamination 

prior to feeding. 

Clinical symptoms in most pets include vomiting, lethargy, heavy 

salivation, abdominal pain, diarrhea, weakness and tremors. Some 

owners may see the oleander leaf in the vomit. The heart is also 

affected causing abnormal rhythms that can be fatal. Symptoms 

generally appear within 6 hours. 

If pets are suspected of ingesting oleander, they should be taken to 

the veterinary hospital immediately. It may be recommended to induce 

vomiting to remove the plant, followed by treatments to prevent further 

absorption of the toxin. Veterinarians may also monitor the heart with 

repeated electrocradiograms (ECG’s), and monitor blood values. 

Hospitalization of pets is critical. 

Animals that receive immediate treatment may survive, although a 

poor prognosis may be given for those that have severe, abnormal heart 

rhythms. 

Oleander Toxicity In Humans 

Oleanders are also poisonous to people. Care should be 

taken when pruning or cleaning oleanders—wearing a mask and 

long sleeves if possible. Hands should be washed immediately 

after working with the plant, removing the toxin before it is 

accidentally ingested. Branches should not be used as sticks to 

make skewers for food, as branches emit a hazardous fume 

when burned. Humans suffer similar symptoms as pets, and 

should see their physician or emergency room if any of the 

following symptoms are observed. 

Initial Symptoms: 

The initial symptoms of oleander toxicity typically arise within 

a few hours after consuming this plant. Onset symptoms include 

nausea, vomiting, diminished appetite, bloody diarrhea, 

drowsiness, dizziness or dilated pupils. Handling oleander may 

also cause skin irritation, such as redness or itching. Without 

immediate medical care, these initial symptoms may cause 

serious health complications. 

Severe Complications: 

Oleander toxicity can be deadly and may cause loss of 

consciousness, seizures, heart rate irregularities and severely 

low blood pressure. You may also stop breathing or develop 

heart block, a potentially fatal complication in which the electrical 

signal responsible for telling your heart muscle when to contract 

is blocked. Contact an emergency medical provider immediately 

if you ingest Oleander to ensure you receive appropriate and 

prompt medical attention. 

Treatment: 

While in the emergency room, a doctor may administer 

activated charcoal in conjunction with intravenous fluids to 

absorb and flush this toxic substance out of your body. In 

addition, he/she may perform gastric lavage, a treatment that 

involves placing a tube through your mouth into your stomach. 

Your doctor can then wash any remaining Oleander out of your 

stomach by using the tube. If you are experiencing breathing or 

heart problems due to Oleander toxicity, your doctor may also 

provide breathing support or may monitor your heart function by 

performing an electrocardiogram. If available, your doctor may 

also administer an antidote to reverse the toxic effects of 

oleander. 

To read more, check out link: 

http://www.livestrong.com/article/395483-nerium-oleandertoxicity/#ixzz1JXs0GJiN 

Thanks to Hope Movsesian, Certified MG, for this information.


VEGGIES: A To Z 

— Purple Top Turnips — 

Brassica rapa var. Family: Brassicaceae 

This fast growing crop is a breeze when planted at the right time of year - now. Although turnips can be grown here as a spring crop, you 

can get better flavor with less risk by sowing them for fall and winter harvest. (See the Planting Chart below for specifics) 

For best results sow seeds direct 1/4" deep in rows or broadcast in beds. Thinning is important for proper growth and yields young 

gourmet greens and roots. Keep the seedbed evenly moist for complete germination in about three days. Although sometimes referred to 

as a "mop-up" crop (because of their ability to utilize left over soil nitrogen) than can follow spring grown onions, corn or squash, turnips 

produce the best roots when grown in soil amended with a balanced organic fertilizer. For more robust root growth you might try digging in 

some composted biosolids before planting (the extra phosphorous is appreciated). 

VARIETIES: 

-Purple Top Turnips are the most common variety (shown above). They are best for continuously producing greens and roots. You might 

also try the ‘French or Italian White top’ varieties for even sweeter roots during the cool season. My favorite is Bianca Lodigiana, (available 

at seedsfromitaly.com) a wonderfully sweet pure white root that also produces excellent greens. 

-Yellow Turnips like ‘Yellow Globe’ are the best choice for roasting or grilling. To get big smooth roots refrain from harvesting the greens 

and wait until after a couple of frosts to harvest the roots. 

-Oriental Hybrids like ‘Hakurei’ and ‘Market Express’ are the quickest producers and the best for using raw in salads or in stir fries. They 

can produce golf ball-sized white globes in as little as four or five weeks. 

GROWING TURNIPS: 

Timing, thinning and weeding are the keys to getting a good turnip harvest. Fall is the best time for planting - thin the seedlings (and eat 

them) as they grow in size - keep the bed weeded and you'll get an excellent turnip crop regardless of which types you decide to grow. 

They really are that easy! 

Good Gardening and Good Eating 

Darrol Shillingburg, Doña Ana Extension Master Gardener 

September 2011


SAVE THE DATE 

FALL MG GARDEN EXPO 

Saturday, Sept. 24 th @ Enchanted Gardens (10am-3pm) 

The Expo is Free and Open to the Public 

Our MG Fall Garden Expo will be held on Saturday, September 24, at Enchanted Gardens from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 

We have scheduled two workshops each hour on the following topics: 

• Cacti and Succulents That Thrive in Our Climate 

• Create a New Planter 

• Flowers, Flowers, Flowers (wildflowers, perennials & xeric plants to add color to your garden) 

• Container Gardening – Large & Small 

• Herbs for All Seasons 

• It’s Bulb Planting Time 

• Planting & Pruning Trees & Shrubs (a double session) 

• Tips for a Successful Irrigation System 

• Vegetable Gardens – Fall, Winter & Spring 

We will also have Master Gardeners at our information table to answer gardening questions that might not be 

covered in any of the workshops. 

Information provided by Ann Palormo, Certified Master Gardener, Expo Coordinator 

SEPTEMBER MG BIRTHDAYS 

Joan Woodward September 3 

Yvonne Kinn September 4 

Leigh Matthewson September 6 

Evicta Harvey September 7 

Barb Sallach September 13 

Bonnie G. Hosie September 26 

Seed/Plant Exchange Suggestion 

Hope Movsesian, Certified 

Master Gardener, has suggested 

that we do a seed exchange at our 

monthly meetings. Anyone with 

seeds, bulbs, or extra plants to 

share is encouraged to bring them 

to our next monthly meeting.


—Monthly Meeting, August 10, 2011— 

! WELCOME—Jeff Anderson & Juliet Williams 

! COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS 

MG Hotline—(Sylvia Hacker) We need more people to sign up. Please fill in contact sheets correctly and sign them!! Under no circumstances, 

do we give out phone numbers of other MGs! You can take the name of the caller and pass it along to the MG expert. Our Specimen Tracking 

Log is being revised and will be back in the office soon. 

Volunteer Hours—(Sylvia Hacker) All MG volunteer hours need to be turned in by September 30 th. Do not wait until the last minute. Only 

three timesheets will be counted if they are turned in at the end of September. 

MG Newsletter—(Ann Shine-Ring) The August MG Magazine hard copy has been insert into the binder in the MG Office. The Plant-of the- 

Month for September will be the Red Hot Poker plant. Other articles to be included: Desert Four o’clocks, planning water gardens, organic 

fertilizers, deer resistant plants, how birds fly, and more… 

Lunch & Learn Presentation—(Sylvia Hacker) Presenter for August will be “Preserving the Harvest” with Karim Martinez. Next month’s 

subject will be Plants and People: Survival Strategies of Southwestern Desert Peoples. Our presenter will be Alex Mares, New Mexico 

State Parks Ranger and Naturalist/Tour Guide. 

Mentor Program—(Sylvia Hacker) We need more mentors for the new class, so please sign up now. There are 25 students in the new class. 

Farmer’s Market—(Dixie LaRock & Barb Sallach) Sign up sheet was available. Dixie will need help getting plants to the market by 7:00 am on 

Sept 3. Also, we will need the donation of items for the silent auction for our 2012 State Conference so keep your eyes open. 

2012 MG Statewide Conference—(Russ Boor) Russ thanked the Finance Committee for approving funds for the Conference. A budget has 

been developed and approved by the Finance Committee. We are looking at what the registration fee will need to be and will keep it as low as 

possible. We have identified “drop dead” dates for various tasks to keep us on schedule with the planning. If you are a Committee head, please 

keep us updated on your progress. Sylvia is working on speakers and PR. Other MG programs in New Mexico have been notified of the dates. 

We have a Facebook page (see Page 16) with Conference info. We still have eight slots open for speakers as some of the NMSU people have 

been difficult to contact. 

Finance Committee—(Sylvia Hacker) Mary Thompson is back after her surgery. Committee met earlier this month, The balance is over 

$12,000, so we can front money to the Conference. An authorization for $6,000 was approved for the Conference to use to confirm speakers. 

Other Discussion: Valice mentioned that the Hotline Stats Committee requests that when filling out the Contact Sheets, please fill out the 

address part of the Sheet so we know where people are calling from. 

OLD/CONTINUING/NEW BUSINESS 

Hatch Chile Festival (Sept 3 & 4) Myles volunteered to serve as Coordinator for this Event. Volunteers are also needed. We will carpool from 

the MG Office leaving at 8 am. At the Festival our table will be inside the building. Please sign up early so we can get tickets. 

Freeze Damage Reports—Several people reported that their trees which were presumed dead are coming back; however, Jeff said they may 

still have fatal damage internally and may not make it in the long run. Juliet has many Desert Willow seedlings that could be dug up for the 

plant sale, but she needs help. 

National Night Out (August 2, 2011)— Juliet stated that participants had a good time, and we had a good location in the shade this year. We 

were a little away from the music, so we were better able to talk with people who came by. We need someone to coordinate our participation in 

this event in the future. It will be first Tuesday in Aug next year as well. Linda Morgan volunteered. 

Butterfly Flutterby (August 20, 2011)—Juliet stated that we had plenty of volunteers for our table, but the event also needs volunteers to help 

with other parts of the program, so let Juliet know if you are willing to work. The Asombro Institute will be running a shuttle for volunteers with 

their van, as parking is limited. We need to be there by 8:30am. 

Fall Garden Expo (September 24,2011)—Ann Palormo passed around a sign up sheet, for Saturday, Sept 24 th for 10-3. We have modified 

the workshops, some new topics. We will focus on fall issues and tasks, winterizing and general info table. Most sessions will be 45 min in 

length with time for questions. (See Page 20 for information on which workshops will be provided.) 

Southern New Mexico State Fair (Sept. 27 to Oct. 2) – Valerie Fernandez Volunteers are needed. You do get a free ticket for the fair when 

you volunteer. We need some help before hand to clean up the area. We will be doing intake on Monday at the fair, Tues in our office and at 

the fairgrounds and Wed at the fair. Each shift is 2 hrs to be at our booth and walk around the building. Also please think about entering your 

produce, flowers, etc. Entry info is online at SNMStateFair.com 

Fall MG Class (Juliet Williams) We’re having some problems getting speakers nailed down for specific dates, but the schedule is coming 

along. The class is filled and was cut off at 25 students. Our first class was August 18 for orientation and pretests. MGs are welcome to sit in 

on the class anytime, just let us know ahead of time so will have adequate seating. Schedule of classes will be posted in the office. Bonnie 

Eisenberg is helping out with the class and others have volunteered to help, including Pat Anderson. Other MGs who can help out, please let 

Bonnie or Juliet know. 

IMPORTANT: Get your timesheets in now! Our MG Program year ends September 30 th. If you wait until then, Pam will only take the 

last three months worth of your timesheets. 

MGM Continued on Page 22 

Meeting Minutes Continued on Page 19


! OTHER ISSUES 

• The Compost Tea class at Fabian Garcia was really great. Mona suggested we have a workshop or at least provide this 

information at the 2012 Conference. 

• Ric Rayo, last month’s presenter, is willing to do a class on using natural dyes for MGs. Cost will be $70/pp which includes 

supplies. Location for this workshop would be at the Farm and Ranch Museum. Let Mona know if you are interested. 

• Onion Field Day – We were supposed to have a table, but did not get one. Several MGs attended. The Field Day 

organizers have asked us to cook something with onions next year--they will provide the onions. Ann Shine-Ring will email 

Mona a list of recipes from Carzalia Valley Farms which is located in Luna County. 

! EDUCATIONAL PRESENTATION: Landscape Preferences of Las Cruces Homeowners – Dr. Rolston St. Hilaire 

He presented the findings of a survey of landscape preferences of Las Cruces homeowners and water usage. The survey 

received 52% of its questionnaires back—an outstanding percentage since a similar study in Santa Fe had only a 27% 

return rate. Dr. St. Hilaire stated that 11% to 26% of the value of a homeowner’s property can be attributed to landscape 

choices made. 

If you want a copy of Dr. St. Hilaire’s research findings, go to link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/research/horticulture/RR750.pdf 

Landscape Preferences and Attitudes Toward Water Conservation: A Public Opinion Survey of Homeowners in 

Las Cruces, New Mexico, Research Report 750, by Rolston St. Hilaire, Jane E. Spinti, Dawn VanLeeuwen and 

Curtis Smith (17 pages). (FYI, we will be adding a copy of this report to our Hotline Library soon.) 

Meeting Snacks: Thanks to Jill Klann, Dixie La Rock, and Linden Ranels for our delicious snacks today. 

Next month, Bonnie Hosie, Mona Nelson, and Joan Woodward will be the goodies makers. 

Next MG Business Meeting–Wednesday, September 14, 2011 

Bonnie and Juliet 

HOTLINE PROCEDURES REMINDERS 

Please be considerate of others who work the Hotline and leave the room tidy after your shift. 

It's time-consuming and frustrating to clean up the area before you can start your own shift or 

work there. 

Eating during your Hotline shift: Bringing food is fine but be sure to clean up after yourself. 

And please don't eat over the computer keyboards. 

Copy Reminder: The secretaries are not there to make copies for the MGs but if you need 

help using the copy machine, please ask. 

Copying Forms: Please use a white paper master to copy forms onto the correct colored 

paper. Masters are located in the front hanging file in the "Reports Masters" drawer in the left 

tan file cabinet. The yellow highlight word "MASTER" written on the form will not show up on the 

copy. 

And please remember to make double-sided copies when needed, it really saves paper. 

Thank you!


IMPORTANT: Get your timesheets in now! Our MG Program year ends September 30 th . If you wait until 

then, Pam will only take the last three months worth of your timesheets. 

Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another MG forgets, please give him or 

her a “reminder” call. 

We are in need of many additional volunteers for Hotline Duty for both September and October. Please 

sign up for those open days. Your help will be greatly appreciated. 

The assignments listed below were current as of September 1, 2011 

MG Hotline Assignments for September 

Friday, Sept.2 Juliet Williams 

Intern 

Tuesday, Sept.6 Certified MG 

John Nelson (I) 

Friday, Sept.9 Kelly Covert 

B.G. Hosie (I) 

Tuesday, Sept.13 Dick Hiss 

Friday, Sept.16 Pat Anderson 

Jana Melvin (I) 

John Nelson (I) 

Intern 


Rosanne Weeks (I) 

Friday, Sept.23 Certified MG 

Jana Melvin (I) 


Friday, Sept.30 Pat Anderson 

Intern 

Intern 

MG Hotline Assignments for October 

Tuesday, October 4 Certified MG 

Rosanne Weeks (I) 

Friday, October 7 Alberta Morgan 

Intern 


Intern 

Friday, October 14 Certified MG 

B.G. Hosie (I) 


Intern 


Intern 


Intern 


Next Monthly Meeting of the 

Doña Ana County Master Gardeners 

(We are now meeting on the 2 nd Wednesday of every month) 

" " " 

Wednesday, September 14, 2011 @ Branigan Library 

Roadrunner Room, 2 nd Floor 

9am-11am 

Intern

Master Gardener Monthly Magazine - NMSU's College of Agriculture ...

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?