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Schöneberg Schöneberg<br />
General Information General Information
Contents<br />
Contents<br />
1 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 2
<strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Tube Map<br />
3 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 4
History History<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> from 1237-1900<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> is a name which conjures many<br />
images: a city at the centre of war, a<br />
confl icted and divided city. A city, if<br />
you will, on the extremes.<br />
Having been the axis of so much of<br />
the world’s recent history, it might<br />
be easy to assume that this was all<br />
that <strong>Berlin</strong> had to offer in terms of<br />
historical interest. But this is not so.<br />
It has been said of <strong>Berlin</strong> that it is the<br />
centre of Germany just as Germany<br />
is the centre of Europe.<br />
In tracing back a few hundred years,<br />
it is possible to see how this came<br />
to be. Geographically speaking,<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> came into existence as an<br />
insignifi cant trade town situated<br />
in between the two older towns of<br />
Spandau and Cölln. This central<br />
position worked to <strong>Berlin</strong>’s favour as<br />
it continued to grow and enveloped<br />
both other towns within its own<br />
boundaries.<br />
Though <strong>Berlin</strong> can only date its own<br />
foundation from the fi rst extant<br />
mention of Cölln in 1237, it was <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
that, by the mid-fourteenth century,<br />
had become the most important<br />
trading town in Brandenburg, with<br />
its own City Council and Stadtbuch.<br />
By the time of the Reformation,<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> had become an important<br />
German town in its own right,<br />
particularly special to many being<br />
one of the fi rst cities in Europe to<br />
embrace Lutheranism. Because of<br />
this, many French Huguenots fl ed<br />
to <strong>Berlin</strong> bringing with them their<br />
intellectual and industrial talents.<br />
Even today, though the name<br />
“Huguenot” has become largely<br />
insignifi cant in modern-day<br />
Europe, this relationship between<br />
French Protestants and <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
is still celebrated in Mitte’s<br />
Gendarmenmarkt.<br />
Here the Französicher Dom and<br />
the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each<br />
other in design, are monuments to<br />
the great respect these two groups<br />
had for each other. Despite the years<br />
between Napoleon’s invasion of<br />
Brandenburg and the Cold War, when<br />
Franco-German relations were at a<br />
very low ebb, it is nice to see these<br />
two rivals still facing each other in<br />
friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt.<br />
Not only a trend-setter in religion,<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> became a leader in the<br />
Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,<br />
Friedrich the Great, transformed<br />
Prussia - with <strong>Berlin</strong> as its capital -<br />
into an enlightened, politically and<br />
economically strong and religiously<br />
tolerant state.<br />
Even defeats in the Thirty Years War<br />
failed to completely destroy Prussia’s<br />
supremacy. This in time transformed<br />
the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of<br />
the greatest in Europe, related by<br />
marriage to most of the great houses<br />
on the continent.<br />
This strength, nobility and stature<br />
were, along with the talents of<br />
5 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 6
History History<br />
Otto von Bismarck, one of the main<br />
reasons why <strong>Berlin</strong> and its monarchy<br />
became the head of the newly unifi ed<br />
Germany.<br />
Despite the later failures of this<br />
system in the early years of the<br />
20th century, this age of a strong<br />
and enlightened German Empire,<br />
led from <strong>Berlin</strong>, remained in the<br />
European psyche for many years.<br />
Jewish History of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
The history of the Jewish community<br />
is plagued by episodic persecution,<br />
Jews often being used as a scapegoat<br />
for economic and social woes.<br />
By 1295 Jewish people in <strong>Berlin</strong> were<br />
barred from many professions and<br />
effectively forbidden to become<br />
members of the artisan guilds.<br />
Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries<br />
Jews were expelled from <strong>Berlin</strong> and<br />
let back in time and again, accused<br />
of acts such as the rampant plague<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong> and Brandenburg, which<br />
had been sweeping across Europe;<br />
and host desecration; which meant<br />
that <strong>Berlin</strong> had virtually no Jewish<br />
community for a century.<br />
Between expulsions and being<br />
banned from most other trades, the<br />
Jewish people of <strong>Berlin</strong> successfully<br />
engaged in money lending and<br />
petty trade. They were confi ned<br />
to living in a ghetto in the Grosser<br />
Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on<br />
Judenstrasse (Jew Street).<br />
Following the devastation of the<br />
Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt<br />
to achieve an economic upswing by<br />
increasing population, the Great<br />
Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50<br />
prosperous Jewish families that were<br />
expelled from Vienna to settle in the<br />
Brandenburg region in 1671. They<br />
were permitted to stay under the<br />
condition that they pay an annual<br />
protection fee, engage in only<br />
certain businesses and worship only<br />
in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish<br />
community of <strong>Berlin</strong> was offi cially<br />
founded.<br />
Despite suffering restrictions on<br />
religion, residence and family size<br />
as well as extra taxes, the Jewish<br />
population of <strong>Berlin</strong> grew and by<br />
1700 the city’s Jewish slums had<br />
approximately 1,000 residents. In<br />
1714 the fi rst synagogue of <strong>Berlin</strong> was<br />
dedicated. As excellent merchants<br />
and bankers, by halfway through the<br />
18th century the Jewish community<br />
totaled close to 2,000 and they had<br />
become among the richest people in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Philosopher and scholar Moses<br />
Mendelssohn arrived in <strong>Berlin</strong> in<br />
1743, and urged Jews to integrate<br />
into secular society and by 1778 these<br />
enlightened ideas found expression<br />
in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish<br />
Free School) that combined religious<br />
learning with general education.<br />
Though the 1812 Emancipation<br />
Edict that declared Jewish people<br />
equal citizens was in the most<br />
part quickly retracted, there was<br />
a general loosening on Prussia’s<br />
restrictions and growing equality for<br />
its Jewish population. By 1869 the<br />
new North German Confederation<br />
passed a law on the equal rights of<br />
religious confession<br />
and declared the<br />
emancipation of<br />
Jewish people<br />
within its territory<br />
and by 1871 German<br />
Jews had equal<br />
rights. Within a<br />
few years members<br />
of the Jewish<br />
community rose to<br />
prominence in government, many<br />
as close advisors to the Kaiser. By<br />
the turn of the century, there were<br />
more than 110,000 Jews in <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />
comprising more than 5% of the total<br />
population.<br />
In the Weimer years (1919-1933)<br />
Jewish citizens of Germany and <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
enjoyed unprecedented levels of<br />
freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt<br />
taking the stage, Jewish composers<br />
including Arnold Schoenberg’s works<br />
being performed, Max Liebermann<br />
and Lesser Ury creating beautiful<br />
paintings and musicians such as the<br />
Comedian Harmonists at the height<br />
of popularity. The Jewish population<br />
continued to grow and by 1933<br />
160,000 Jews called <strong>Berlin</strong> home.<br />
At the same time anti-Semitism was<br />
on the rise and the years leading up<br />
to the ascendance of Nazi power saw<br />
increasing attacks on members of the<br />
Jewish community. Statebacked<br />
persecution<br />
ensued after the<br />
Nazis took power in<br />
1933, and with the<br />
1935<br />
Nüremberger<br />
Gesetze<br />
(Nuremberg<br />
Laws) the Jewish<br />
citizens of Germany<br />
were effectively<br />
deprived of social and<br />
economic rights via the introduction<br />
of apartheid-like classifi cations of<br />
“racial purity”.<br />
Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish<br />
community life increased as Jewish<br />
citizens were forced to send their<br />
7 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 8
History History<br />
children to segregated schools and<br />
forbidden from interacting with<br />
non-Jews. Those who could see the<br />
writing on the wall and had money<br />
escaped while they could, though<br />
even such escape was a limited<br />
opportunity, as other European<br />
countries, the US and Palestine all<br />
restricted Jewish immigration.<br />
In retaliation for the assassination<br />
of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath,<br />
who was killed by a 17-year-old<br />
Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the<br />
Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph<br />
Goebbels called for a nationwide<br />
pogrom on November 9th 1938.<br />
This night is known as<br />
Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken<br />
Glass, a nationwide attack on the<br />
Jewish people that resulted in the<br />
death of 36 of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s Jews, many<br />
were beaten on the streets while<br />
passers-by looked on; the destruction<br />
of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of<br />
hundreds of shops and businesses.<br />
German Jewish citizens were then<br />
required to pay one million marks to<br />
repair the damages.<br />
By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish<br />
citizens to wear a yellow star at all<br />
times, and the fi rst mass deportations<br />
from <strong>Berlin</strong> marked the beginning of<br />
the systematic large-scale genocide<br />
of German Jews. Before the end of<br />
the war over 55,000 Jewish residents<br />
of <strong>Berlin</strong> were deported.<br />
In January 1941 the Wannsee<br />
Conference resolved and planned the<br />
so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage<br />
(Final Solution to the Jewish<br />
Question) – the removal of all Jews<br />
to the East and, implicitly, their<br />
extermination. The Final Solution<br />
began to be put into effect, and<br />
life for the Jewish citizens in <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
became increasingly unbearable.<br />
All Jewish schools and institutions<br />
were closed down, the Jewish<br />
community was disbanded, Jewish<br />
citizens were banned from public<br />
transport, their food rations<br />
were reduced and thousands<br />
were deported, mostly to the<br />
Theresienstadt and Auschwitz<br />
concentration camps.<br />
By the end of the war,<br />
Hitler’s mass genocide<br />
had reduced <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
Jewish population by<br />
around 96 per cent to<br />
about 6,500. Survivors<br />
managed to escape<br />
death often through<br />
being hidden by gentile<br />
families at great<br />
personal risk or by<br />
evading fi nal round-ups<br />
through legal conditions<br />
such as irreplaceable<br />
skills vital to the war<br />
effort or being married to a non-Jew.<br />
Only about 2,000 returned from the<br />
concentration camps.<br />
In 1946 the Jewish community was<br />
offi cially recognized again as a<br />
public body, and a large number of<br />
Eastern European Jews immigrated<br />
to <strong>Berlin</strong>. As a result of intense<br />
anti-Semitic persecution in East<br />
Germany, many members of the<br />
Jewish community fl ed to the west.<br />
As a result, the Jewish community of<br />
East <strong>Berlin</strong> was almost non-existent,<br />
and even by 1988 the East German<br />
Jewish community had less than 200<br />
members.<br />
In West <strong>Berlin</strong>, the German Jewish<br />
community had about 6,000<br />
members, constituting<br />
the largest Jewish<br />
community in Germany.<br />
After the two <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Jewish communities<br />
were reunited with the<br />
fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall,<br />
the federal government<br />
approved refugee status<br />
for Jews from the former<br />
Soviet Union and since<br />
then over 50,000 Jewish<br />
people have immigrated<br />
to Germany, with <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
more than doubling its<br />
congregation members<br />
to over 12,000.<br />
Since reunifi cation several steps<br />
have been taken to preserve Jewish<br />
history including the opening of the<br />
Jewish Museum and the decision by<br />
the German Bundestag to erect the<br />
Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden<br />
Europas (Memorial for the Murdered<br />
Jews of Europe) according to the<br />
design by Peter Eisenman.<br />
9 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 10
History History<br />
The puzzle of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall<br />
An anti-capitalistic protective barrier<br />
with concrete pads, barbwire and<br />
watchtowers held the East German<br />
population from running away.<br />
“A wall is a hell of a lot better than<br />
war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon<br />
hearing about the construction of<br />
the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall.<br />
Nevertheless,<br />
for about<br />
28 years the<br />
160km long<br />
wall encased a<br />
whole nation.<br />
Between 1949<br />
and 1961,<br />
2 . 5 m i l l i o n<br />
p e o p l e<br />
escaped from<br />
the German<br />
Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying<br />
to get over the wall, or hiding in<br />
traffi c that was allowed to go through<br />
the barriers. The accurate number of<br />
people who were shot down when<br />
they tried to escape varies according<br />
to different sources. Many memorials<br />
give an account of the GDR fugitives’<br />
tragic destiny: bleeding to death<br />
after being shot by border patrol<br />
soldiers. Escape from the German<br />
republic was classifi ed as treason,<br />
punishable by death. There was<br />
nothing the Western <strong>Berlin</strong> police<br />
could do to stop this.<br />
A sad chapter in German history was<br />
put to an end when the Wall was<br />
torn down in 1989, and as a result<br />
the unifi cation of Germany ensued.<br />
Of over 100 watchtowers three<br />
are kept. Even some of the former<br />
border crossings<br />
are still clearly<br />
recognizable, with<br />
the most wellknown<br />
transition<br />
at Checkpoint<br />
Charlie.<br />
The wall was<br />
broken up and<br />
the remaining<br />
sections becoming<br />
memorials and<br />
museums for the<br />
fallen. The Todesstreifen (death<br />
zone) can still be seen in many<br />
places. Some have been left as<br />
large areas of brown, uncultivated<br />
land, while other parts have been<br />
turned into parks. The pieces of<br />
wall that were torn down and<br />
demolished were sent to museums<br />
and universities across the world,<br />
and made into souvenirs for tourists.<br />
Wall sections decorate, for example,<br />
the historic port in Cape Town, South<br />
Africa; the entrance of the Basilica<br />
Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal;<br />
the Vatican garden; the 6km long<br />
green stream Cheonggyecheon in<br />
South Korean city of Seoul; the EU<br />
Parliament in Belgium; as well as<br />
places in Strasbourg, Riga, London,<br />
Canberra and Montréal. The biggest<br />
Wall piece outside of Germany is<br />
located in “Freedom Park” near<br />
Arlington, Virginia.<br />
The well-known East Side Gallery was<br />
painted in 1990 by 118 artists from<br />
21 different countries; previously it<br />
was only allowed for West Germans.<br />
The Gallery is not just for the artistic<br />
exploration of the Wall’s demise, but<br />
for the memory of the dead refugees.<br />
During the Wall’s 20th anniversary<br />
former artists were brought to the<br />
capital city to remove the traces<br />
of the last 18 years. The graffi ti<br />
has suffered extensive damage<br />
due to visitors and attacks from<br />
Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).<br />
A €2.5 million renovation is underway<br />
and should be ready by Autumn<br />
General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg<br />
11 Information 12
History History<br />
2009. The maintenance of the wall<br />
plays a major role, since it is both<br />
an important monument to the<br />
reunifi cation, as well as a Certifi cate<br />
of European and world culture.<br />
Anyone can acquire a valuable<br />
memory in the form of a piece of the<br />
Wall. Pieces come in different sizes,<br />
which are also available online, up<br />
to $150. However, if you want to see<br />
more than just a 2x2cm piece, the<br />
opportunity as a tourist in <strong>Berlin</strong> is<br />
huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser<br />
Platz next to the Brandenburger<br />
Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer<br />
Strasse (National Monument, U<br />
Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße<br />
with the longest preserved part of<br />
the wall about 1.3km.<br />
Those interested in the history of<br />
the GDR and the fall of the Wall<br />
should defi nitely go to the following<br />
places. They will clear all important<br />
questions and satisfy your thirst for<br />
knowledge.<br />
City Museum of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
www.stadtmuseum.de<br />
Am Köllnischen Park 5<br />
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke<br />
Tel: +49 3 024 002 159<br />
Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm<br />
Wed 12-8pm<br />
Price: €4<br />
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie<br />
www.mauermuseum.de<br />
U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße<br />
Tel: +49 302 537 250<br />
Mo- Su 9am- 8pm<br />
Price: €7.50-12.50<br />
Chapel of Reconciliation<br />
www.kapelle-versoehnung.de<br />
Bernauerstr. 4<br />
Tel: +49 304 636 034<br />
Service to remember the victims<br />
(Sunday 10am)<br />
Tue-Sun 10am-5pm<br />
Topographie of Terror<br />
www.topographie.de<br />
Niederkirchnerstr. 8<br />
Tel: +49 3 025 450 950<br />
Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am-<br />
BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies<br />
Looking back on <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
history begs the question<br />
of how the bear became<br />
its symbol. Unfortunately<br />
it is not clear what was<br />
here fi rst; <strong>Berlin</strong> or the<br />
bear. It wasn’t until 1280<br />
when the bear became the<br />
heraldic animal of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Today its image is still<br />
used for advertisements<br />
on different logos,<br />
c e r t i f i c a t i o n s ,<br />
newspapers, publications,<br />
agencies, stamps and<br />
even more in and around<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>. The bear even<br />
became a permanent part<br />
of the city’s fl ag in 1908.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> bear art is scattered<br />
all over the city in the<br />
form of sculptures, plastic<br />
models and architecture,<br />
most of which are hidden<br />
amongst the less touristprone<br />
areas. Some have<br />
also just been rebuilt<br />
after they got eliminated<br />
or damaged during the<br />
Nazi regime. Today,<br />
especially in Prenzlauer<br />
Berg, there are many furry<br />
13 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 14
History History<br />
inhabitants decorating the<br />
streets. In the middle of<br />
the public Volkspark lives<br />
the most colorful bear<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>. He was born in<br />
1970 and fell pray to some<br />
graffi ti artists in the last<br />
couple of years. However<br />
they decided to keep him<br />
blue and call him Käpt’n<br />
Blaubär (Captain Blue<br />
bear) which is now a great<br />
attraction for children<br />
who know this bear from<br />
TV.<br />
At the Moabiter Bridge<br />
(Bartningallee) there<br />
are four different bears<br />
designed by four sculptors<br />
each at a different<br />
location. The bridge was<br />
built between 1893 and<br />
1894 and was rebuilt due<br />
to war damage between<br />
1980 and 1981. The stone<br />
bears are positioned on<br />
all fours and appear to<br />
be giant when standing<br />
in front of them, their<br />
huge paws and enormous<br />
claws making them<br />
appear even larger. Their<br />
bodies look big and round,<br />
nevertheless they do not<br />
appear as feared creatures but rather<br />
as cute clumsy bears, which delight<br />
the pedestrians who pass over the<br />
bridge. Around this area small cafes<br />
and a cozy restaurant at the Spree<br />
River invite everybody to sit down<br />
and relax.<br />
One of the most important bear art<br />
pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished<br />
fountain, which was rebuilt after<br />
being destroyed during World War<br />
II. Sutowski made his artwork out<br />
of red Lava Tuff stone which gives<br />
it an interesting pattern. This<br />
fountain is decorated with one bear<br />
in the center and eight smaller bears<br />
around, almost as if the mother bear<br />
is watching her children frolic.<br />
Some of the bear art pieces are also<br />
used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz<br />
had the idea to paint bear sculptures,<br />
sell them at auctions and give the<br />
money to UNICEF and other children<br />
aid organizations. In this way they<br />
could donate more than two million<br />
dollars in the last eight years. Jackie<br />
Chan even brought the idea of the<br />
United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.<br />
Everybody can support this project,<br />
take part in the competition and<br />
maybe get the chance to give a<br />
buddy bear a new fur colour.<br />
If you want to get a shot of this<br />
famous <strong>Berlin</strong> symbol- just keep your<br />
eyes open and wherever you may go<br />
you will always fi nd a bear.<br />
15 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 16
Survival Guide<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> is a lovely place to see and explore, but just<br />
to make your visit that much more enjoyable,<br />
we’ve gathered some useful information to help<br />
you get by in the city.<br />
Culture and etiquette<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> generally has a laid back and accepting<br />
attitude to most things, although there is an<br />
underlying sense of respect for rules and authority.<br />
• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon -<br />
offenders will more frequently be reprimanded<br />
by onlookers than the police.<br />
• Although a smoking ban was recently<br />
introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars.<br />
It is best to ask before you light up.<br />
• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,<br />
although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.<br />
Useful tips<br />
• For a quick view of the main <strong>Berlin</strong> area, bus routes 100 and 200 are<br />
double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the<br />
Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm-<br />
Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz.<br />
• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm.<br />
You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate.<br />
• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,<br />
with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are<br />
available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the<br />
nightlife lists are easy to decipher.<br />
• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for<br />
separate bins for plastic and glass.<br />
Survival Guide<br />
• Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.<br />
• There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and<br />
bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it<br />
to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to<br />
the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass<br />
needs to be returned to get your deposit back.<br />
• It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit<br />
cards.<br />
Transport<br />
The city has a well integrated and<br />
effi cient public transport network.<br />
At fi rst glance it may appear quite<br />
complex, but the interconnecting<br />
suburban (S-Bahn) and underground<br />
(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and<br />
bus services ensure you won’t be left<br />
stranded.<br />
The U-Bahn service closes between<br />
midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during<br />
the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at<br />
midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight<br />
where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.<br />
Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,<br />
undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand<br />
out fi nes of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!<br />
If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them<br />
before your journey.<br />
Cycling in <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffi c<br />
and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why<br />
17 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 18
Survival Guide<br />
don’t you cycle in <strong>Berlin</strong>? It’s fl atter<br />
than London and less chaotic than<br />
Amsterdam. With over 800kms of fl at<br />
land, parks, gardens and bike routes,<br />
look no further than <strong>Berlin</strong>’s cycling<br />
network.<br />
Many hostels will recommend or rent<br />
out bikes from a few hours to a few<br />
days, but if you are spending a few<br />
weeks or longer in <strong>Berlin</strong> it is wellworth<br />
investing your money in a bike.<br />
The average price to rent is €15 per<br />
day, and most places will hold onto<br />
a cash deposit or your passport until<br />
you bring the bike back.<br />
The best place to look for secondhand<br />
bikes are fl ea-markets,<br />
particularly Mauer Park,<br />
where you can pick up a<br />
bike for as little as €40.<br />
Important Information<br />
If you are hardcore and<br />
bring or buy your own bike,<br />
it’s best to remember the<br />
following, whether biking or<br />
walking:<br />
• Remember that traffi c is<br />
on the right-hand side of<br />
the road. Bike paths, even<br />
on the footpath, also follow<br />
this rule.<br />
• Buy a pump and tyre repair<br />
kit, or at least know a few<br />
locations of Bike Doctors,<br />
just in case. There is a lot of<br />
broken glass on the streets<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
• Get a good lock. The fl ea<br />
markets are quite cheap.<br />
• Look before walking across a bike<br />
path. Sometimes cyclists look for<br />
someone to get angry with and will<br />
verbally lash out.<br />
• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take<br />
your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside<br />
of rush hour). Bikes are free when<br />
you have a monthly ticket.<br />
• Get off your bike and walk in busy<br />
areas, or ride on the road.<br />
Fat Tire Bike Tours<br />
Survival Guide<br />
• Keep a good lookout when riding<br />
alongside pedestrians or cars. Both<br />
can be dangerous and you’re in the<br />
worst position to go fl ying.<br />
• Enjoy riding around <strong>Berlin</strong>. It is<br />
good fun, keeps you fi t and gets you<br />
around with a lot less stress.<br />
www.FatTireBikeTours<strong>Berlin</strong>.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:<br />
Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr<br />
16 – Sep 30).<br />
The perfect combination of getting to know <strong>Berlin</strong> and getting active is<br />
to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less<br />
time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.<br />
You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and<br />
past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy<br />
snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each<br />
place.<br />
There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent<br />
out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide<br />
Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.<br />
19 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 20
Survival Guide<br />
Airports<br />
Tegel Airport<br />
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186<br />
Tegel is 8km from the city centre,<br />
which is easy and cheap to reach<br />
by bus. The number 109 stops at<br />
Zoologischer Station, or you can<br />
catch the U-Bahn.<br />
Schönefeld<br />
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186<br />
South of the city centre, Bus 171<br />
can take you from the airport to<br />
Flughafen <strong>Berlin</strong> Schönefeld railway<br />
station. From there you can catch<br />
the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains<br />
into the city, 20kms away.<br />
Accommodation Information<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> has a number of hostels that<br />
provide all the necessary facilities:<br />
bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI;<br />
laundry facilities; plus added bonuses<br />
like leisure and entertainment<br />
facilities – bar; games room; TV room;<br />
and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes<br />
these are free or you may have to<br />
pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to<br />
go through these offers and decide<br />
what is important to you and what<br />
you can do without.<br />
Booking a bed is easy and can be<br />
done in a number of ways: online;<br />
telephone; or the olde traditional<br />
way…visit the hostel and book a<br />
bed there and then. Booking online<br />
however is quick, simple and often<br />
cheaper. You could book via the<br />
hostel’s website, but we recommend<br />
using hostel search engines such<br />
as HostelWorld.com. It is one of<br />
the easiest search engines to use,<br />
even for technophobes. Search by<br />
area, price or browse the customer<br />
ratings to fi nd the best hostel for<br />
you. Keep an eye out for discounts<br />
when booking online.<br />
How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash<br />
on arrival but each is different so<br />
keep that in mind when browsing.<br />
A small deposit is required when<br />
booking over the internet to ensure<br />
your bed is held, and is especially<br />
worth doing during busy holiday<br />
periods (May to September).<br />
Useful words/phrases<br />
English German<br />
Yes, No Ja, Nein<br />
Please Bitte<br />
You’re welcome Bitte<br />
Thank you Danke<br />
Good Morning Guten Morgen<br />
Good Day Guten Tag<br />
Good Evening Guten Abend<br />
Goodbye<br />
(informal)<br />
Tschüss<br />
Goodbye Auf<br />
(formal) Wiedersehen<br />
How are you? Wie geht es<br />
(formal) Ihnen?<br />
How are you?<br />
(informal)<br />
Wie geht’s?<br />
Today Heute<br />
Tomorrow Morgen<br />
Yesterday Gestern<br />
Excuse me Entschuldigung<br />
Where is...? Wo ist...?<br />
How, When, Wie, Wann,<br />
Why?<br />
Warum?<br />
Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen<br />
Men’s toilets Herren/Männer<br />
Survival Guide<br />
Entrance Eingang<br />
Exit Ausgang<br />
I would like... Ich möchte...<br />
Do you speak Sprechen Sie<br />
English? Englisch?<br />
1 eins<br />
2 zwei<br />
3 drei<br />
4 vier<br />
5 fünf<br />
6 sechs<br />
7 sieben<br />
8 acht<br />
9 neun<br />
10 zehn<br />
20 zwanzig<br />
50 fünfzig<br />
100 ein hundert<br />
21 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 22
Day Trips<br />
Day trips out of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
When you just need some time out<br />
from the hustle and bustle of crazy<br />
city life, hop on a train and see<br />
what the end of the line holds. From<br />
castles to beaches and even fi lm<br />
studioes, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s surroundings are<br />
just as fun as the inner city.<br />
Potsdam<br />
S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof<br />
for regional trains.<br />
Only twenty minutes by train,<br />
Potsdam has just as much history as<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>. With the royal Park Sanssouci<br />
and the fi lm park Babelsberg, there<br />
are many activities to fi ll your<br />
time. Historically Potsdam has been<br />
around since AD 993, although it was<br />
bombed heavily during World War II.<br />
Potsdam is a small town and the<br />
main street is your average cafe<br />
and shopping strip. A lot of buildings<br />
are also being rebuilt. Wander a<br />
little further and you will fi nd the<br />
original Brandenburger Tor, smaller<br />
but still impressive. The royal palace<br />
- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to<br />
the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The<br />
important Potsdam Conference was<br />
held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies<br />
all met to discuss how to deal with<br />
Germany after World War II.<br />
When you walk from town, take the<br />
back entrance into Park Sanssouci.<br />
Walk through Friedenskirche, Church<br />
of Peace, where the view between<br />
the concrete pillars will make you<br />
feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking<br />
out into a splash of colour with the<br />
lake, trees and fl owers in full bloom.<br />
Day Trips<br />
Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the<br />
1745 and 1747, is fl anked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700<br />
side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and<br />
paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.<br />
Friedrich’s summer palace stands<br />
above four layers of steps, gardens<br />
and greenhouses – these were<br />
built into the walls to protect the<br />
hundreds of fi g trees during winter.<br />
Maybe they were a personal favourite<br />
of Friedrich the Great?<br />
Head back to town and take in<br />
the fi lm park Babelsberg. This was<br />
where many fi lms, including those of<br />
the silent era and Nazi propaganda<br />
were produced. It is still an active<br />
and important part of European fi lm<br />
production. Some of the more recent<br />
Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace fi lms produced there include The<br />
built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;<br />
guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,<br />
overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.<br />
23 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 24
Day Trips<br />
Freibad Müggelsee<br />
Fürstenwalder Damm 838,<br />
Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777.<br />
S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61:<br />
Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept<br />
9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions.<br />
Though not <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most central<br />
swimming area, this is a perfectly<br />
pleasant sunny day outing. With<br />
volleyball and basketball courts,<br />
snacks and drinks for sale, and a<br />
restaurant close by, this inland beach<br />
on the north shore of East <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
biggest lake boasts a large sunbathing<br />
and swimming area.<br />
Although a sandy forefront, the<br />
water is natural and fl at. It’s great<br />
for throwing a ball around and<br />
playing horse with your friends. As<br />
the beach does get quite crowded,<br />
especially on sunny weekends,<br />
getting there early to claim a prime<br />
sun-bathing spot is recommended.<br />
From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes<br />
about 45 minutes.<br />
The Freikörperkultur (nudist)<br />
section of the beach is separated<br />
from the Freibad (open-air bathing<br />
area) by 200m of forest. If you’re<br />
interested in experiencing some of<br />
Germany’s nudist culture get off<br />
the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/<br />
Müggelseedamm for the FKK section<br />
of the beach. Tourists who are just<br />
there to gawk will be treated with<br />
some hostility, so make sure you’re<br />
ready to fully participate in this<br />
aspect of German culture if you<br />
choose to visit the nudist area.<br />
Krumme Lanke<br />
S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open<br />
all day, every day; free.<br />
Allied Museum: www.<br />
alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-<br />
Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun<br />
10am-6pm.<br />
Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex<br />
Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee<br />
Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun<br />
10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch<br />
Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop<br />
“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.<br />
If you’re looking for a change from<br />
the busy and hectic city centre, a<br />
short trip to Schlachtensee Station is<br />
a great way to spend a relaxing (and<br />
free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk<br />
from the station, Krumme Lanke<br />
is surrounded by the trees of the<br />
Grunewald Forest and can provide<br />
the tranquillity and rest your feet so<br />
much desire. It’s possible to swim,<br />
row and walk around in the area, and<br />
you can grab lunch from a cheap but<br />
cheerful café next to the station.<br />
Currywurst, bratwurst and more go<br />
Day Trips<br />
for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get<br />
quite busy, so head there early to<br />
claim a spot.<br />
If you can’t beat your sightseeing<br />
addiction, nearby is the Allied<br />
museum, good for a visual<br />
understanding of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Airlift<br />
and American presence in the city<br />
during much of the 20th century.<br />
Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,<br />
where the Nazis mapped out the<br />
fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.<br />
All in all an enjoyable day out worth<br />
having if just to see another side to<br />
the multifaced city.<br />
25 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 26
Day Trips<br />
S a c h s e n h a u s e n<br />
Concentration Camp and<br />
Memorial<br />
www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen.<br />
de. Memorial and Museum<br />
Sachsenhausen. Straße der<br />
Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn:<br />
Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000.<br />
Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free.<br />
Reminders of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s turbulent past<br />
are all over the city, however a visit to<br />
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp<br />
near Oranienberg is particularly<br />
thought-provoking and encompasses<br />
the many horrors of recent German<br />
history.<br />
The camp was built in 1936 under<br />
Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler<br />
as a model for future concentration<br />
camps. Between 1936 and 1945<br />
more than 200,000 people were<br />
interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially,<br />
the majority of these prisoners<br />
were political opponents of Hitler’s<br />
government: communists, social<br />
democrats and trade unionists. This<br />
soon widened to include anyone<br />
that the Nazis deemed as racially<br />
or biologically inferior such as<br />
homosexuals and Jews.<br />
During this period, tens of thousands<br />
died at the camp from starvation,<br />
forced labour, mistreatment and<br />
extermination. Soviet<br />
and Polish forces<br />
liberated the camp on<br />
April 22, 1945 - sadly<br />
however, 300 of the<br />
remaining inmates died<br />
from malnutrition and<br />
illnesses before they had<br />
the chance to leave. The<br />
mass grave in which these<br />
prisoners are interred is<br />
a particularly distressing<br />
part of the camp.<br />
The horrors of<br />
Sachsenhausen did not<br />
cease after the fall of the<br />
Nazis. From August 1945<br />
the Soviet secret police<br />
reopened the camp for<br />
the detention of their<br />
own political prisoners<br />
and war criminals;<br />
this included anyone<br />
suspected of opposition.<br />
By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners<br />
of war, suspected former Nazis and<br />
Soviet political dissenters, were<br />
incarcerated there. After the fall of<br />
Day Trips<br />
the GDR the remains of some 10,000<br />
prisoners were found in mass graves.<br />
The extensive horrors which took<br />
place at Sachsenhausen during the<br />
Nazi and GDR years are memorialised<br />
by the national monument that<br />
towers over the grounds.<br />
The barren landscape<br />
and the original barracks,<br />
prison and security fencing<br />
are eerily suggestive of<br />
the extensive suffering<br />
which occurred. In<br />
particular the grim<br />
sights of the mortuary,<br />
living quarters and<br />
infi rmary invite visitors to<br />
contemplate experiences<br />
of the prisoners. Invest<br />
in the audio guide for €3<br />
in order to fully grasp<br />
the harrowing historical<br />
importance of the site.<br />
First-hand accounts<br />
displayed in the museums<br />
and played on the audio<br />
guide serve to emphasise<br />
the traumatic effect<br />
Hitler’s fascist rule had on<br />
millions of lives.<br />
A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eyeopening<br />
experience which reiterates<br />
the cold reality of World War II and<br />
the subsequent Soviet regime.<br />
27 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 28
Mitte Information<br />
Unter den Linden is one of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
most famous Boulevards, a 1.5kmlong<br />
stretch panning east from the<br />
Brandenburg Gate up to Museum<br />
Island. Developed as a showpiece<br />
since the 18th<br />
century, where<br />
it was then<br />
used as a horseriding<br />
route<br />
to Tiergarten,<br />
the road has<br />
become a<br />
gallery for<br />
some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
greatest sights.<br />
Museum Island<br />
is a must see,<br />
with some of<br />
the worlds<br />
fi nest art and sculpture. Whilst<br />
in the area, a quick diversion<br />
to the governmental quarter of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> is defi antly worthwhile. The<br />
Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped<br />
bend of the Spree River, houses<br />
several buildings running in an eastwest<br />
direction to symbolically tie the<br />
two halves of the city together. The<br />
Reichstag, situated in the middle of<br />
this unison, is a favourite amongst<br />
visitors, as the glass dome gives<br />
spectacular views across the city.<br />
Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander<br />
Platz is perhaps one of the busiest<br />
places found in <strong>Berlin</strong>. Cluttered with<br />
shops, a central station and various<br />
fountains, it is something to be seen<br />
if only for the novelty. And of course,<br />
it is home to<br />
the communist<br />
commissioned TV<br />
Tower - a great<br />
landmark to<br />
locate yourself<br />
with when lost.<br />
Pretty much<br />
deserted during<br />
the GDR era,<br />
the Spandauer<br />
Vorstadt has been<br />
overtaken by<br />
squatters, artists<br />
and anyone<br />
with a fl air for renovation. Its focal<br />
point lies in Hackeschen Markt and<br />
the bustling streets surrounding it,<br />
crammed with busy (and expensive)<br />
restaurants and shops. The area to<br />
the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse<br />
and the touristy Oranienburger<br />
Strasse – formed the heart of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
pre-war Jewish district. At the end<br />
of Oranienburger Strasse lies the<br />
graffi ti-covered Tachles, an anarchic<br />
1990s artists’ squat still preserved as<br />
such today, providing a good starting<br />
point for <strong>Berlin</strong>’s nightlife.<br />
29 Mitte Mitte 30
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Brandenburg Gate<br />
Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den<br />
Linden, Bus 100/200.<br />
Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans<br />
and built in 1791, the Brandenburg<br />
Gate has become a focal point in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s turbulent history. Originally,<br />
it was recognised as a symbol of<br />
German solidarity, as it looks out onto<br />
the impressive Siegessäule, marking<br />
Prussian military victories. With<br />
many of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s main roads leading<br />
towards it, the Gate is something<br />
almost impossible to miss.<br />
The site has witnessed many<br />
important events in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history,<br />
including being a meeting place for<br />
revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a<br />
favoured rallying point for the Nazis’<br />
torch-lit marches; and with the wall<br />
enclosing the Gate in the Eastern<br />
sector in 1961, it soon became a<br />
symbol of the city’s division. Nearby<br />
observation posts became a hot spot<br />
for visiting politicians, including<br />
Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them<br />
a rare glimpse at life on the other<br />
side.<br />
Sitting on top of the Gate is the<br />
equally historic Quadriga, the horsedrawn<br />
chariot that was once snatched<br />
up by Napoleon and relocated to<br />
France (only to be returned to its<br />
original home a few years later). The<br />
GDR also did its own fi ddling with the<br />
statue, including the removal of the<br />
cross and it being turned around to<br />
face the West during the cold-war<br />
era.<br />
Today, the Gate serves as a tourist<br />
must-see, with families and<br />
travellers posing for photos in front<br />
of the impressive structure.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> Hauptbanhof<br />
www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1.<br />
Nicknamed the “glass cathedral”<br />
by locals, this central station offers<br />
not only an easy route to almost<br />
anywhere in <strong>Berlin</strong> and Europe,<br />
but also a master class in glass and<br />
steel architecture. The Gothic-style<br />
construction was built primarily<br />
for the 2006 football World Cup,<br />
and hosts many shops, eateries and<br />
meeting points one would expect in<br />
such a large station.<br />
Designed by two Hamburg-based<br />
architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and<br />
Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s<br />
biggest train hub, boasting a capacity<br />
of 300,000 travellers, running on<br />
1,100 trains per day. Unlike other<br />
stations in <strong>Berlin</strong> and across Europe,<br />
its cleanliness and peacefulness are<br />
dominant, with little to no graffi ti or<br />
rubbish in sight.<br />
Since its initial drawing-board stages,<br />
the station was always planned<br />
to observe a north-south, eastwest<br />
axis, cutting through the long<br />
circle line. This axis now serves as<br />
a symbolic central point of Europe,<br />
with trains coming from Rome and<br />
Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.<br />
Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines<br />
going through this station and you<br />
will get a great tour of the main sights<br />
of Mitte, including the Reichstag,<br />
the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you<br />
don’t have a need to travel, simply<br />
a quick trip here to look around is<br />
worthwhile as the architecture is<br />
remarkable.<br />
31 Mitte Mitte 32
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Neue Wache<br />
(New Guard House)<br />
Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter<br />
den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm.<br />
Entrance Free.<br />
Teeming with important historical<br />
sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably<br />
fascinating yet sometimes<br />
exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New<br />
Guard House) is perfect for quiet<br />
contemplation: a momentary repose<br />
amidst a hectic day of sightseeing.<br />
The mourning sculpture by Käthe<br />
Kollwitz stands alone in the centre<br />
of the room, as a powerful symbol of<br />
the emotional torment that ensued<br />
after the Second World War.<br />
It was the fi rst building designed by<br />
the important German architect Karl<br />
Friedrich Schinkel in <strong>Berlin</strong> (1816-<br />
1818). It notably emphasizes the<br />
popular German Neo-Classical style<br />
of architecture, which swept through<br />
Germany in the 19th century. Until<br />
the end of the monarchy in 1918,<br />
the Neue Wache functioned as the<br />
royal guard house. Since then, this<br />
compact, yet simultaneously stately<br />
building has served as a memorial for<br />
victims of war.<br />
The German architect Heinrich<br />
Tessenow fi rst made changes to<br />
the building in 1930-31, creating a<br />
“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the<br />
Great War”. He inserted the oculus<br />
in the centre of the ceiling, through<br />
which light fi lters into the dark<br />
chamber, creating an atmospheric<br />
Neue and almost eerie sensation – when<br />
the building isn’t packed with<br />
tourists.<br />
Bombing from the Second World War<br />
left the building scarred, and as a<br />
result, in need of serious repair. From<br />
1960, the GDR restored the building,<br />
renaming it “Memorial to the Victims<br />
of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the<br />
chamber, an eternal fl ame burned.<br />
In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the<br />
remains of an Unknown Soldier and<br />
concentration camp prisoner. In<br />
1993, after German reunifi cation,<br />
the hall was declared as the “Central<br />
Memorial of the Federal Republic of<br />
Germany”. Having been described as<br />
a “monumentally void interior hall”,<br />
the Neue Wache is nonetheless<br />
worth a visit for its atmospheric and<br />
emotional resonance.<br />
Fernsehturm<br />
www.berlinerfernsehturm.de.<br />
Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn:<br />
Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333.<br />
Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am-<br />
12am. Price: €4.50-9.50.<br />
Towering above <strong>Berlin</strong>, the<br />
Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as<br />
a beacon for visitors and locals alike<br />
to orientate themselves, since it can<br />
be seen from all corners of the city.<br />
The structure offers 360˚ views of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> with a rotating café on the<br />
Nikolaiviertel<br />
(St Nicholas Quarter)<br />
U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined<br />
ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-<br />
Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free<br />
Wednesdays.<br />
A short walk from bustling<br />
Alexanderplatz one fi nds a quiet<br />
square centred around the<br />
Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.<br />
Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel<br />
appears to be one of the last<br />
remainders of medieval <strong>Berlin</strong>, aside<br />
from the Nikolaikirche, founded in<br />
1240, most of the original buildings<br />
in this area were either destroyed by<br />
bombing or pulled down during the<br />
1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist<br />
of irony, many buildings were rebuilt<br />
in 1987 by the GDR government<br />
to look like the originals, using<br />
photographs from the 1920s as<br />
reference.<br />
For historic interest, there is a series<br />
of placards on various buildings<br />
in the area giving information on<br />
personalities who lived there or<br />
events which took place. In terms of<br />
museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,<br />
the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-<br />
Palais, together offering a fairly<br />
comprehensive portrait of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
history from its foundation to the<br />
33 Mitte Mitte 34
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
nineteenth century.<br />
This is a neighbourhood that plays<br />
on its medieval heritage as much as<br />
possible, from cafés proclaiming to<br />
have been established in the 13th<br />
century, to antiquarian booksellers<br />
taking advantage of the archaic<br />
atmosphere. However, there is<br />
an obvious attempt to cash in on<br />
this – you will fi nd a lot of souvenir<br />
shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and<br />
the restaurants tend to be a little<br />
overpriced. The square also backs<br />
onto the river which offers more<br />
restaurants and a nice spot to eat or<br />
rest.<br />
upper fl oor, completing one rotation<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
The Fernsehturm is 368m high and<br />
was completed in 1969. The tower<br />
was built with the intention of<br />
demonstrating how technologically<br />
advanced the East was. This symbol<br />
of progress became a source of<br />
embarrassment for the German<br />
government. When hit with direct<br />
sunlight, the tower creates the<br />
refl ection of a cross, the same<br />
symbol the government had tried so<br />
hard to banish. The West Germans<br />
called this “the Pope’s Revenge”<br />
since all crosses had been removed<br />
from East German churches. No<br />
matter what the East Germans did,<br />
the cross remained.<br />
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe<br />
www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.<br />
Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,<br />
Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.<br />
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city<br />
and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each<br />
block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The<br />
memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to fi nd their own path<br />
through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through<br />
the memorial for wheelchair users.<br />
The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,<br />
gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between<br />
1933 and 1945. Photographs,<br />
personal accounts and biographies<br />
emphasise the harsh reality of<br />
the harassment, expulsion, and<br />
extermination of entire families.<br />
Here you can fi nd information<br />
that documents the geographic<br />
spread of genocide as well as being<br />
presented with the number of<br />
victims from each occupied country<br />
further highlighting the extent of<br />
these horrifi c events. There is also<br />
a room where visitors can search<br />
for victims’ names in a database<br />
that contains more than three<br />
million entries.<br />
Although admission is free, audio<br />
guides available for €3. If you visit<br />
on a Sunday at 4pm you can take<br />
the guided tour, in English, also at<br />
a cost of €3.<br />
35 Mitte Mitte 36
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Hamburger Bahnhof<br />
www.smb.museum/smb/hbf/.<br />
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.<br />
Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open:<br />
Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3<br />
concession.<br />
An abstract collection of works,<br />
from German artist and theorist<br />
Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol,<br />
are displayed beneath the roof of<br />
this former railway station turned<br />
contemporary art museum. Open<br />
since 1996, the surreal collection<br />
has been in the making since the<br />
mid 1970’s, and highlights both the<br />
limitless boundaries of abstract art<br />
and the strong association Beuys<br />
had with some of the art world’s<br />
most unconventional and reputable<br />
artists.<br />
A modest glimpse into the bizarre<br />
and borderline ridiculous nature<br />
of contemporary modern art itself,<br />
the gallery undeniably reeks of<br />
inspiration and creativity that either<br />
inspires or repels the passing masses.<br />
Although guaranteed to split the<br />
opinions of visitors, the collection is<br />
well worth a look if not for ‘what is’<br />
displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed.<br />
Most visitors pop in for a quick<br />
glimpse of the numerous original<br />
works on display from pop arts front<br />
man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’<br />
(1973). The real gems are found in<br />
the quotes scattered around from the<br />
charismatic and controversial Joseph<br />
Beuys, the clashing placement of<br />
life-like pieces opposing walls of<br />
absurdity, and the general conceited<br />
nature of many of the passing<br />
visitors.<br />
Neue Synagoge<br />
(New Synagogue)<br />
www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger<br />
Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />
Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr.<br />
Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs<br />
10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed<br />
on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays.<br />
Cupola open to visitors April-<br />
September. Price: €1-5.<br />
The New Synagogue of <strong>Berlin</strong> with<br />
its golden cupola rises high above<br />
the center of the city. Though it has<br />
faced desecration and destruction,<br />
it still remains a city landmark. Built<br />
in 1866, the synagogue was once the<br />
center of Jewish worship housing<br />
over 3000 congregants.<br />
The rise of the Nazis, though,<br />
hindered this community. During the<br />
November 1938 pogroms, known as<br />
Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where<br />
most Jewish sites were vandalized<br />
and damaged, this synagogue was<br />
salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the<br />
district police chief of the time,<br />
who forced the arsonists to leave<br />
claiming it was under protection as<br />
a city landmark.<br />
Although services continued<br />
afterwards until 1940, it was then<br />
taken over and used as a storage<br />
place for uniforms. Consequently in<br />
1943, the synagogue was bombed by<br />
the Allied Forces, severely damaging<br />
it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall<br />
was torn down, only the front of the<br />
building remaining.<br />
However in 1988, the main dome<br />
and the two corner towers were<br />
restored to look exactly as they<br />
37 Mitte Mitte 38
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
did before the destruction. It now<br />
functions as a community center<br />
and contains a permanent exhibit,<br />
titled “Open ye the Gates”, which<br />
features pictures and documents on<br />
Jewish history, and more specifi cally<br />
the synagogue’s history, as well as<br />
showcasing artifacts found during<br />
the restoration. The upper fl oor is<br />
used for temporary exhibits as well<br />
as ceremonies and lectures. The<br />
synagogue is still used for services,<br />
though only seating eighty members<br />
as it is no longer the main synagogue<br />
of the Jewish community.<br />
Reichstag<br />
Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter<br />
den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027.<br />
Mon-Sun 8am-12am.<br />
One of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most striking<br />
landmarks, the Reichstag, which<br />
today houses the German parliament,<br />
has undoubtedly played a pivotal role<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history and is defi nitely<br />
worth a visit. The original imposing<br />
neoclassical facade is contrasted<br />
with a striking glass cupola supported<br />
by a soaring mirrored column, which<br />
offers stunning 360-degree views<br />
across the city.<br />
The Reichstag was built in the late<br />
19th century as a parliamentary<br />
offi ce, but in reality had little purpose<br />
under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I.<br />
In 1918 the Weimar Republic was<br />
declared here from a window by<br />
Philip Scheidemann and for the<br />
next 15 years it controlled the fi rst<br />
democratic body in Germany. The<br />
Reichstag fi re in 1933 however gave<br />
Hitler the perfect opportunity to<br />
exercise an emergency degree, thus<br />
effectively allowing him dictatorial<br />
power over the country.<br />
At the end of World War II the<br />
Reichstag was symbolic of the<br />
Allied victory, when Russian soldiers<br />
positioned the Soviet fl ag on the<br />
roof. The building was then left<br />
mainly unoccupied until the fall<br />
of the wall in 1990, when the<br />
government of a reunifi ed Germany<br />
fi nally decided to resurrect it as its<br />
new parliament. Following extensive<br />
remodeling under plans from British<br />
architect Sir Norman Foster, it once<br />
again provides a cornerstone of<br />
the Regierungsviertel (government<br />
quarter) in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Queues are expected, arrive very<br />
early or late in the day to avoid<br />
disappointment. Tours in English<br />
offered on Tuesdays (outside of<br />
parliamentary sessions), book in<br />
advance.<br />
B u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m<br />
(Museum of Letters)<br />
w w w. b u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m . d e .<br />
Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn:<br />
Spittelmarkt. Tel: +49 1 774 201 587.<br />
View by appointment only.<br />
If you are interested in letterforms,<br />
Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit.<br />
The museum is made up of two rooms<br />
of large-scale type examples, mostly<br />
interesting signage from buildings.<br />
The space is small, but there is still<br />
plenty to look at. They have a good<br />
variety of different type styles, from<br />
modern san serifs to black letter.<br />
It is great to see attention brought<br />
to an area of design which is often<br />
39 Mitte Mitte 40
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Tacheles<br />
www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr.<br />
54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr.<br />
Tel: +49 302 826 185.<br />
Originally created as a non-profi t<br />
organisation, a vision that it still<br />
retains to this day, Tacheles is<br />
currently a key centre<br />
for art creation and<br />
exhibition near the<br />
centre of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Not to be confused<br />
with the separate<br />
collection of bars,<br />
commonly referred to<br />
as Studio 54, that are<br />
scattered behind and<br />
in the lower section<br />
of the building, it<br />
aims to focus on the<br />
creative processes<br />
behind art and tries<br />
to do away with the<br />
organisational ties<br />
that offi cial museums<br />
hold. Housed in an old<br />
department department store, the the building has a<br />
strong appeal with graffi ti adorning<br />
every visible space, and all sorts of<br />
characters roaming freely within.<br />
As a result of its volatile history and<br />
unique atmosphere it holds a strong<br />
attraction for tourists, especially<br />
backpackers, as well as the artists<br />
from all over the world that head<br />
there to work and live.<br />
The Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles<br />
was built at the beginning of the 20th<br />
century as a large enclosed space for<br />
small businesses, before becoming<br />
a department store, and has since<br />
served many purposes including<br />
housing an SS offi ce.<br />
The building was<br />
damaged during the<br />
Second World War<br />
and only occasionally<br />
used throughout the<br />
Cold War. The section<br />
that stands today is<br />
just a small part of<br />
the original building.<br />
In 1990, shortly<br />
after the collapse<br />
of the wall and two<br />
months before the<br />
building was due to<br />
be demolished, an<br />
artists’ initiative<br />
group called Tacheles,<br />
which translates as<br />
plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied<br />
the building. From then on the future<br />
of the building, and the non-profi t<br />
organisation housed within, has been<br />
far from certain. A lease was agreed<br />
with the current owners, with a token<br />
rent of €0.50 paid each month. This<br />
lease has recently expired however,<br />
and with the property owner’s bank<br />
seeking administration rights, it is<br />
more uncertain than ever before as<br />
to the future of this unique cultural<br />
site. Problems are also had with the<br />
various bars, also on site, which all<br />
originally had leases agreed with<br />
the Tacheles organisation. Currently<br />
only one bar continues to pay rent<br />
and this causes a large amount of<br />
tension.<br />
Despite the ongoing legal wrangling<br />
and the internal problems it has,<br />
Tacheles still has plans and high<br />
hopes for the future. These include<br />
the creation of a foundation to<br />
support non-profi t cultural projects;<br />
the formation of a limited company<br />
to outsource economic activities;<br />
the creation of a sculpture park<br />
on the roof and the expansion of<br />
brand marketing to gain revenue for<br />
cultural projects.<br />
Tacheles is key to retaining the<br />
spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for<br />
art’s sake’ attitude brought about<br />
in its formation almost 20 years<br />
ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable<br />
position to take, and arguably the<br />
cornerstone that makes Tacheles<br />
such an attraction today, it is also<br />
an aspect that causes it to struggle<br />
in a modern world dominated<br />
by profi table organisations and<br />
establishments with a heavilyrefi<br />
ned corporate image. Despite<br />
this though, and the uncertain future<br />
ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the<br />
original aims of the organisation into<br />
the future and create an artistic<br />
legacy for generations to come.<br />
Mitte 41 Mitte 42
Arts & Culture Food & Drink<br />
Hackesche Höfe<br />
Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn:<br />
Hackesche Markt.<br />
The ivy grows up the walls, framing<br />
the windows and even trying to<br />
creep into them. One courtyard has<br />
a children’s play area, another has a<br />
small fountain.<br />
A newly refurbished complex<br />
of buildings that run from<br />
Oranienburgerstrasse and<br />
Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse<br />
is what makes up the 20th century<br />
Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard)<br />
complex.<br />
Originally designed by Kurt Berendt<br />
and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe<br />
was damaged during the war, but<br />
has since been restored to a place of<br />
many means.<br />
Although the buildings above are<br />
offi ces and apartments, the nine<br />
interconnecting courtyards are fi lled<br />
with bars, restaurants, boutiques and<br />
even its own theatre. The courtyards<br />
are beautiful and green, transporting<br />
you away from the hustle and bustle<br />
of the city.<br />
Designer shops sport trendy clothes,<br />
quirky ornaments and arty books.<br />
The Ampelman store is hidden in one<br />
of the courtyards where you can buy<br />
merchandise with the little green<br />
‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men.<br />
In a city developing so fast, and new<br />
concrete structures appearing daily,<br />
it’s nice to have a hidden piece of<br />
natural beauty in the city.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s Street Food<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. In fact, it may be the best<br />
part of <strong>Berlin</strong> for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers<br />
can fi nd stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst.<br />
In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese takeout<br />
may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and<br />
fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry<br />
powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the<br />
sauce if it’s not to your taste.<br />
Chips are found on many a street corner as well. Besides the usual dipping<br />
sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a<br />
little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry<br />
to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location<br />
to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger<br />
Strasse across from Studio 54.<br />
Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in the numerous <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to<br />
eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up<br />
great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are<br />
also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight in these establishments<br />
are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no more than €2 for either<br />
a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large<br />
sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo.<br />
While <strong>Berlin</strong> can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and<br />
shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though<br />
it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great<br />
setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and<br />
then burn them away.<br />
43 Mitte Mitte 44
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Zur Letzten Instanz<br />
www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse,<br />
Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12pm-1am.<br />
From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are<br />
immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll<br />
fi nd yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented<br />
the Zur Letzten Instanz. His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they<br />
squirm to fi nd a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been<br />
designed to fi t the Lilliputian emperor.<br />
Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery<br />
stands as <strong>Berlin</strong>’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621.<br />
The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched<br />
charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet<br />
reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booze ups.<br />
The food is typical <strong>Berlin</strong> style: Pickled pigs knuckles, bloodwurst, red cabbage<br />
and dumplings. But the fl agship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful<br />
roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almost impossible<br />
to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore<br />
the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone<br />
bisecting the impossibly tender fl esh. A must have for meat lovers.<br />
A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16.<br />
Theodor Tucher<br />
www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/.<br />
Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den<br />
Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon-<br />
Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25<br />
This gem could easily be shrugged<br />
off, taken for another overpriced,<br />
posh, tourist trap. However Theodor<br />
Tucher, tucked away in the right<br />
hand corner of Pariser<br />
Platz under the<br />
looming shadow of the<br />
Brandenburger Tor,<br />
offers so much more<br />
than good, if a little<br />
pricey, fare.<br />
The dining area is<br />
quite large, both<br />
inside and outside<br />
and it is possible to<br />
choose a seat with an<br />
armrest, looking out<br />
over the square for an<br />
afternoon of drinking<br />
and people watching.<br />
The highlight of Theodor Tucher is<br />
their Lunch-special trio, changing<br />
daily to fi t the mood of the chef.<br />
The small plates range from chicken<br />
and potatoes with mustard sauce to<br />
a goat risotto. Included in the special<br />
price of €13.90, a dessert also comes<br />
at the end of the meal.<br />
Those looking for something else<br />
will fi nd it hard to choose between<br />
a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic,<br />
fresh salads topped with spiced nuts<br />
and fried pita bread, hearty meatand-potato<br />
stews or freshly dressed<br />
baguettes, just to name a few. The<br />
desserts will also surely tantalize<br />
the diner with plates such as mousse<br />
of rose petals with chocolate<br />
medallions and<br />
mango salad. There is<br />
even something new<br />
to discover with their<br />
fresh selection of<br />
unique drinks such as<br />
strawberry punch and<br />
red-currant spritzer,<br />
crisp juices that come<br />
in a jug, rather than a<br />
single glass.<br />
After a delicious<br />
meal in this small<br />
café, the diner can<br />
head upstairs to the<br />
literary house, a<br />
loft with hardwood<br />
fl oors, walls lined with old books and<br />
old Victorian style furniture. This<br />
upstairs haven is nearly soundproof,<br />
blocking out the clamor of the other<br />
diners below, leaving the guest in a<br />
relaxed stupor for however long they<br />
would like to visit after their meal.<br />
Mitte 45 Mitte 46
Nightlife Nightlife<br />
Strand Bar Mitte<br />
www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße<br />
1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.<br />
Mon-Sun 10am-late.<br />
Strand Bar Mitte is well known for<br />
having started the urban beach bar<br />
trend, for which <strong>Berlin</strong> is now famous.<br />
This unique bar sits alongside the<br />
River Spree, overlooking Museum<br />
Island. Connected to the theatre<br />
next door, it is a fantastic place to sit<br />
and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable<br />
prices. Lounge in the comfy deck<br />
chairs by the river and watch the<br />
world go by, or try your hand at salsa<br />
on the dance fl oor.<br />
Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is<br />
a delightfully relaxed environment<br />
which is frequented by all ages.<br />
Watch out for the setting sun tinting<br />
the façade of the Bodemuseum<br />
across the river; it is particularly<br />
beautiful. The fairy lights, urban<br />
beach and deck-chairs all add to<br />
the holiday atmosphere, while the<br />
pizzeria by the bar makes for great<br />
mid-evening snacks. If you want a<br />
low-key alfresco evening, then look<br />
no further.<br />
Bang Bang<br />
www.bangbang-club.de. Neue<br />
Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher<br />
Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price:<br />
€5-10.<br />
Her fangs tore into<br />
the body of a raw<br />
whole pineapple,<br />
the juice causing<br />
red lipstick to drip<br />
down her chin<br />
and pool onto the<br />
stage. Dressed in<br />
burlesque, she<br />
reared her head<br />
back and spit the<br />
tropical pulp into<br />
faces of a screaming<br />
crowd pumping<br />
fi sts of devil horns.<br />
Bleeding eardrums pressed against<br />
speakers as the tongue of this rock<br />
goddess slipped pieces of the luscious<br />
fruit between audience members’<br />
drooling lips.<br />
If you’ve been searching for an<br />
intense nightlife scene of live music,<br />
tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale,<br />
then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang<br />
Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous<br />
tracks of the Hackescher Markt<br />
S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall<br />
is a hotspot for colourful characters<br />
that will guarantee an interesting<br />
and usually entertaining night.<br />
The dress code varies from drag and<br />
burlesque to teenagers sporting a<br />
casual attire of shorts and T-shirts.<br />
The music as well is diverse with<br />
DJs spinning 60s<br />
pop hits, indie<br />
tracks, and even<br />
the heavy riffs of<br />
Black Sabbath and<br />
Rage Against the<br />
Machine. The bar<br />
unfortunately is<br />
not cheap, beer<br />
runs €3 for .33L<br />
and cocktails are<br />
€6-7.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s nightlife<br />
typically begins<br />
quite late, in fact<br />
most clubs are not in full swing until<br />
well after midnight. So if you decide<br />
to show up at the Bang Bang around<br />
11pm, make sure that you have<br />
the energy to exercise your dance<br />
skills and head-banging fury to the<br />
early hours of the morning. Visit the<br />
website to see the event lineup and<br />
choose the night that best suits your<br />
interests.<br />
47 Mitte Mitte 48
Prenzlauer Berg Information<br />
Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the<br />
most picturesque areas in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
The area is dominated by wide open<br />
boulevards and many of its buildings<br />
are now occupied by übercool cafes,<br />
shops and restaurants. As a result<br />
the area has undergone a process<br />
of gentrifi cation since reunifi cation<br />
with many of the buildings renovated<br />
after a period of neglect under the<br />
East German government.<br />
Prenzlauer Berg is known for having<br />
a high proportion of young families;<br />
attracting British and American<br />
immigrants, who are drawn by the<br />
area’s continuing reputation for<br />
art; and for students. Only a few<br />
old buildings give a reminder of the<br />
area’s past. Created in the latter<br />
half of the 19th century under the<br />
plans of James Hobrecht, it was<br />
initially intended to be a workingclass<br />
district. After a while the area<br />
became known for punks and then,<br />
having survived much of the post-war<br />
rebuilding, it subsequently became<br />
a hotspot for students, intellectuals<br />
and artists under the GDR. A place<br />
for alternative forms of culture was<br />
established and as a consequence it<br />
was a place where resistance could<br />
be found.<br />
49 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 50
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Kulturbrauerei<br />
w w w. k u l t u r b r a u e r e i - b e r l i n .<br />
de Schonhauser Allee 36.<br />
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe.<br />
Tel: +49 3044 35 260.<br />
Once a Schultheiss brewery, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate<br />
venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts<br />
and markets. The artistic nerve<br />
centre of the creative city includes<br />
an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and<br />
Cigar bar and even a cooking school<br />
for experimental culinary lovers. Why<br />
not head to SODA Club for €4 Salsa<br />
classes every Thursday and Sunday<br />
before practicing your moves at the<br />
evening Salsa party? Or for a unique<br />
fortnightly shopping experience,<br />
visit The White Market for locally<br />
made clothing and accessories from<br />
the likes of Barbara Viktor and<br />
Friederike Porscha.<br />
Jüdischer Friedhof<br />
Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn:<br />
Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33.<br />
Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm.<br />
Along a nondescript road lies a<br />
poignant place of remembrance.<br />
The Jüdischer Friedhof is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
oldest Jewish cemetery and, like<br />
any cemetery, there is something<br />
of a sombre air upon entering. This<br />
is perhaps even more signifi cant in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> when considering the context<br />
of history. Unlike other Jewish<br />
cemeteries in <strong>Berlin</strong> it survived the<br />
wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless<br />
damage was still done in 1988 when<br />
it was attacked by East German neo-<br />
Nazis with fallen tombstones providing<br />
the evidence. Much remains though<br />
and the canopy of trees provides a<br />
fi tting resting place. Indeed nature is<br />
a key theme when visiting, as moss<br />
and ivy are now beginning to wrap<br />
themselves around the weathered<br />
tomb stones. The rows of tomb<br />
stones provide a sense of order but<br />
this is broken by the many small<br />
paths that criss-cross the cemetery<br />
and provide a more natural feel. As a<br />
consequence small corners can easily<br />
be found, especially at the end of<br />
the cemetery, allowing that poignant<br />
moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer<br />
and artist Max Liebermann.<br />
Kollwitzplatz<br />
U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz<br />
Infl uenced by the designs of Reinhold<br />
Linger, Kollwitzplatz is great for any<br />
number of activities. Some may be<br />
inclined to sunbathe, while others<br />
may want to practice their tabletennis<br />
skills, or simply relax with<br />
friends. Alternatively, once past the<br />
trees that encircle the plaz, the<br />
clearing provides a perfect spot for<br />
that refl ective moment or a chance<br />
to simply admire the ornate buildings<br />
that are a feature of the area.<br />
The platz also includes a great<br />
playground, and despite its closed<br />
surroundings, it is still possible to hear<br />
the bustle of various eateries which<br />
surround the platz and provide the<br />
chance for pleasant refreshment. The<br />
platz itself is named after the famous<br />
artist who lived in the area, Katty<br />
Kollwitz, and whose statue watches<br />
over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it<br />
is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’<br />
own work. Indeed the presence of a<br />
work that conveys such sombreness<br />
and refl ection is a theme that could<br />
describe the whole platz.<br />
51 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 52
Arts & Culture<br />
Volkspark Weinberg<br />
Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler<br />
Platz and Fehbelliner Str. U-Bahn:<br />
Rosenthaler Platz.<br />
Don’t let fi nances get in the way of<br />
fun! There are many activities in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> that are free of charge. Not<br />
least of these are the parks and<br />
playgrounds scattered about the city.<br />
For those who are mature enough to<br />
admit they still enjoy a good tire<br />
swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark<br />
Weinberg will provide an enjoyable<br />
cost-free evening. During the day<br />
this park is dominated by parents<br />
and their children, as nightfalls this<br />
place is left empty for the bigger<br />
cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue<br />
pyramids spurting water, and a<br />
behemoth of a jungle gym, even the<br />
most grown-up of people will feel the<br />
urge to summon their inner child. The<br />
shallow wading pool provides a nice<br />
place to cool your feet, or your bum<br />
for that matter after receiving slideburns<br />
over on the play structures.<br />
Even if you stop by in the daytime<br />
and a younger crowd occupies the<br />
games equipment, there are still<br />
two cafes, the lily pond, and the<br />
rose garden to enjoy. Merely sitting<br />
on a bench listening to the church<br />
bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a<br />
relaxing experience. So if your wallet<br />
is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to<br />
let the kid within you out!<br />
Who Killed Bambi?<br />
w w w. w h o k i l l e d b a m b i . o r g<br />
Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel:<br />
+49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Monsat<br />
12pm – 8pm<br />
Note: this clothes store has nothing<br />
to do with Disney. Offering a<br />
generous selection of alternative<br />
attire for both men and women, Who<br />
Killed Bambi is the place to go for<br />
fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a<br />
range of street-wear labels from the<br />
locally produced Made in Paradise<br />
to European favourite Desigual,<br />
Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the<br />
largest of three in <strong>Berlin</strong>. Browse the<br />
racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for<br />
that attention-grabbing purchase,<br />
or lust after the unique Who Killed<br />
Bambi bowling bags.<br />
A little something extra ...<br />
Photobooths<br />
Shopping<br />
Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2.<br />
Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you<br />
four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all<br />
scattered around <strong>Berlin</strong>. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw<br />
Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them by. But keep your eye<br />
keen - for only 2€ fun memories can be captured (and can also be used<br />
to make your friends at home jealous!)<br />
53 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 54
Shopping Shopping<br />
Interview with Karin Nieto,<br />
Organiser of The White<br />
Market.<br />
T h e W h i t e M a r k e t . c o m .<br />
KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee<br />
36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm<br />
– 7pm. Log on to the website for<br />
the next The White<br />
Market event.<br />
The White Market is<br />
a new fashion event<br />
based in the diverse<br />
shopping area of<br />
Prenzlauer Berg.<br />
Locals and tourists<br />
alike visit the chic,<br />
outdoor market for<br />
a taste of original<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> craftsmanship<br />
at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural<br />
hub.<br />
Having hosted only four events<br />
of its kind so far, organiser Karen<br />
Nieto speaks to us about this unique<br />
project and the exciting prospects<br />
for The White Market.<br />
When did you fi rst come up with<br />
the idea for The White Market and<br />
what made you decide to pursue<br />
this venture?<br />
The idea for the White Market was<br />
conceived in 2008, during one of<br />
those shopping ruts everyone gets<br />
into sometimes.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> is a creative city, bustling with<br />
talented designers, but shopping<br />
can be inconvenient and uninspiring<br />
sometimes. Since moving here two<br />
years ago, we’ve been fl ying every<br />
season to New York<br />
or Paris to get our<br />
fashion fi x. In these<br />
cities, shopping<br />
more than just a<br />
means to an end,<br />
it’s an experience.<br />
We recognized<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> already had<br />
all the elements:<br />
talented designers,<br />
good quality<br />
c r a f t s m a n s h i p ,<br />
endless sources of inspiration, etc.<br />
All we had to do was connect the<br />
elements. Our concept was simple:<br />
bring the best designers under one<br />
roof (or umbrella in our case) and<br />
present their collections in a pretty<br />
white package – and voila, the White<br />
Market shopping experience was<br />
born.<br />
How did you come up with the name<br />
‘The White Market’?<br />
We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’<br />
because that’s how we visualized the<br />
beginning: outdoor summer shopping<br />
under rows of white canopies. Plus,<br />
the name suits the philosophy of<br />
the market: all products are unique<br />
and hand-made; the exact opposite<br />
of what you might fi nd in a black<br />
market.<br />
How do you select the designers that<br />
exhibit at The White Market, and<br />
how many do you choose to show at<br />
any one event?<br />
Each designer must submit images<br />
of their collections, and we review<br />
them based on the following criteria:<br />
original design, craftsmanship, and<br />
small production runs. We show<br />
approximately 40 designers per<br />
market, and we make sure there is<br />
an equal number between clothing<br />
and accessory designers.<br />
What items can we fi nd on sale at<br />
The White Market and is there an<br />
average price range?<br />
The White Market only exhibits<br />
handmade items from independent<br />
designers with non mass-produced<br />
collections. In order to remain<br />
true to the initial concept of the<br />
White Market, it is exclusively a<br />
fashion market selling clothing and<br />
accessories. The price range is very<br />
broad starting at ten euros goingup<br />
to 200 euros.<br />
Describe your typical ‘The White<br />
Market’ customer.<br />
The White Market attracts people<br />
from all walks of life who have<br />
one thing in common: an eye for<br />
fashion. Tourists come in droves<br />
and <strong>Berlin</strong> locals are equally excited<br />
by the prospect of a new shopping<br />
experience to discover. You are<br />
located at KulturBrauerei in the<br />
popular shopping area of Prenzlauer<br />
Berg. How did you decide on the area<br />
in which The White Market is held,<br />
and how important do you think this<br />
is to the project’s success?<br />
Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled<br />
out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not<br />
overly-touristy like other districts<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>. The neighbourhood has<br />
a perfect blend of a young creative<br />
set that keeps the area exciting and<br />
inspiring and young families with<br />
a more disposable income keep it<br />
prosperous. The KulturBrauerei is<br />
incredibly charming, and it’s a <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
landmark. The fact that everyone<br />
knows it, means we don’t have to<br />
give directions and the location gave<br />
the market a sense of establishment<br />
from the get go.<br />
Are you a designer yourself, and if so<br />
do you exhibit any of your items at<br />
The White Market?<br />
55 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 56
Shopping Shopping<br />
Yes, I’m an architect and clothing<br />
designer. I’m launching a line<br />
of jewellery to sell at the White<br />
Market – I just need to fi nd time to<br />
make it!<br />
What do you think sets <strong>Berlin</strong> apart<br />
from the rest of the world in terms<br />
of fashion and style?<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s unique history plays an<br />
integral role in local fashion.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>ers take the term ‘eighties or<br />
nineties throwback’ to a new extrem<br />
e that stretches into each fi bre of its<br />
aesthetic culture from furniture to<br />
architecture and clothing. <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
endless array of second hand shops<br />
and various fl ea markets caters to<br />
ones every nostalgic whim. The White<br />
Market has been embraced because<br />
though it exclusively presents is new<br />
things, it encourages home-grown<br />
individuality and creativity: integral<br />
facets of <strong>Berlin</strong> fashion.<br />
Where do you see The White Market<br />
fi ve years from now?<br />
As a destination for trend forecasters<br />
and shopaholics alike –a <strong>Berlin</strong> fashion<br />
establishment. We have already<br />
received international interest in<br />
the White Market which would be<br />
the natural next step for us to take<br />
for the market<br />
to grow organically. In addition, the<br />
possibility of a White Market label is<br />
also on the cards. The label would<br />
present collections of selected<br />
market designers. The designers<br />
would change along with the seasons<br />
and the White Market label would<br />
serve, like the market, as a springboard<br />
into the global world of<br />
fashion.<br />
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark<br />
(Flea Market)<br />
Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8<br />
Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm<br />
Prenzlauer Berg may not have<br />
the alternative edge of areas like<br />
Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but<br />
the now affl uent area retains some<br />
of its bohemian cool. This makes it<br />
the perfect place for secondhand<br />
shoppers who want to snap up<br />
some of the residents’ castoffs. The<br />
massive market on Bernauer Straße<br />
is on every Sunday, and with plenty<br />
of great food stalls and bars, it’s<br />
easy to spend the whole day here.<br />
Everything from household goods<br />
to clothing, records, books and<br />
bicycles can be found here. There’s<br />
undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good<br />
rummage through the cardboard<br />
boxes should yield a worthwhile<br />
reward. Prices start off pretty low,<br />
but if not don’t be afraid to barter,<br />
as there are plenty of bargains to be<br />
had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap<br />
as three euro, books from about 50<br />
cents, and bicycles for about 30 to<br />
50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure<br />
to leave plenty of time to make your<br />
way through the crowds.<br />
57 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 58
Shopping Shopping<br />
Tausche<br />
www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8.<br />
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49<br />
30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon-<br />
Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm.<br />
Tausche is no ordinary bag shop.<br />
This contemporary store sells <strong>Berlin</strong>made,<br />
multi-functional, multifaceted<br />
messenger bags which are<br />
unique in their ability to alter both<br />
purpose and appearance. Tausche<br />
bags are available in eight different<br />
sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and<br />
come with two exchangeable cover<br />
fl aps upon purchase. Just unzip<br />
the front and transform the bag’s<br />
aesthetic in one swift movement<br />
with another cover. Visit the<br />
exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer<br />
Berg and browse through the<br />
collection of covers decorating the<br />
shop’s interior in order to customise<br />
your chosen style. From pretty fl orals,<br />
to iconic local images like the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
TV tower, the range of designs is<br />
seemingly endless. Team these with<br />
an additional inset in black or orange<br />
to accommodate for individual,<br />
practical needs. The cushioned<br />
Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a<br />
15” laptop, while the Rabenvater<br />
offers space for baby food, nappies<br />
and anything else the little one might<br />
need. Insets start at €25 for a simple<br />
separator, with the more expensive<br />
laptop compartment costing €55.<br />
Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz<br />
U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday<br />
9am – 5pm<br />
Arkonaplatz is a smaller market,<br />
with higher quality goods and prices<br />
to match. The focus is on vintage<br />
and retro clothes and household<br />
goods, with a particularly impressive<br />
selection of sunglasses. The market is<br />
also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with<br />
plenty of boxes fi lled with records.<br />
There is also a great collection<br />
of interesting old record players.<br />
Afterwards, you can relax in the<br />
pretty little park next door, which is<br />
and is a perfect spot for a picnic or<br />
sunbathing in the summer.<br />
Pigasus Poster Gallery<br />
www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse<br />
62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz.<br />
Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat<br />
2pm-7pm<br />
A gallery that is a little bit different,<br />
Pigasus offers a broad range of<br />
posters for sale. Among them<br />
are designs that were originally<br />
printed for fi lm, theatre, opera and<br />
exhibitions. There are both vintage<br />
and more contemporary posters,<br />
and those on show are continually<br />
changing. Prices range from €15, to<br />
over €200 for rarer pieces. There<br />
is also a good selection of CDs by<br />
Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists<br />
to buy.<br />
Go downstairs and there is a small<br />
but substantial enough changing<br />
exhibition, focusing on the work<br />
of one particular artist or theme.<br />
A movement known as the Polish<br />
Poster School emerged in the 50s,<br />
the main protagonist being Henryk<br />
Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs<br />
tend to have a handmade feel, even<br />
the more modern ones, and often<br />
contain a political statement. Browse<br />
and enjoy at your own leisure.<br />
Supaife Kiosk<br />
Raumerstr. 40, 10437 <strong>Berlin</strong>, Phone:<br />
44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife.<br />
de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed,<br />
U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz<br />
Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone<br />
interested in street art or graphic<br />
design. This store sells both books on<br />
the subjects as well as small-edition<br />
prints and artists books. Silk-screened<br />
t-shirts, postcards and stickers round<br />
out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also<br />
serves as a gallery for art exhibitions,<br />
with the openings often featuring<br />
live music. With a diverse collection<br />
of various kinds of graphic arts, this<br />
store is the perfect place to pick up<br />
an affordable work of art.<br />
59 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 60
Shopping Shopping<br />
Sentimental Journey<br />
Husemannstr. 5, 10435 <strong>Berlin</strong>, Phone:<br />
030/44328664, Email: journey@<br />
arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun.<br />
closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.<br />
With the funky sequined dresses<br />
hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis<br />
above the door, you know you are<br />
in for a real vintage treat when you<br />
enter Sentimental Journey. Inside,<br />
clothing, shoes and hats from the early<br />
20th century until the present await.<br />
Sentimental Journeys is everything a<br />
vintage shop should be, with crowded<br />
racks of dresses, scary mannequin<br />
heads with ostentatious hats, and<br />
even a white and black checked<br />
fl oor. To top it all off, in one room<br />
there is a shrine to Elvis, complete<br />
with a piano and velvet stool, a<br />
large cut out of The King himself,<br />
and a ceramic band arranged on top<br />
of the piano. Many treasures await<br />
discovery in this store: collapsible top<br />
hats, cocktail dresses, and even a hat<br />
featuring a knitted grand piano made<br />
by the owner herself. Although the<br />
prices may be on the higher end (said<br />
hat costing upwards of 100 euro),<br />
it is still worth a look if just for the<br />
feeling of nostalgia for a time when<br />
you weren’t even around.<br />
Stiefelkombinat<br />
Eberswalder Str. 21/22, Tel: 51 05<br />
12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.<br />
and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed.<br />
Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to<br />
say the least. The experience begins<br />
before even entering the premises,<br />
as its contents spill out onto the<br />
street, making it hard to miss.<br />
Inside, shag rugs and furry stools<br />
are used in abundance, providing<br />
a suitably retro decor on which to<br />
display the clothes. Shoes dominate<br />
the secondhand merchandise. There<br />
is a wide selection of both boots<br />
and heels, which are all helpfully<br />
organized by size with clearly marked<br />
sections. Various choices abound,<br />
ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go<br />
boots. There is also a large collection<br />
of vintage clothing, mostly from the<br />
1960s through to the 1980s. Variety<br />
abounds, with everything from<br />
chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits<br />
and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up<br />
to the rafters, the shop can be a little<br />
hard to take in fully and discover<br />
that perfect fi nd. But when you<br />
do, it is the result of an enjoyable<br />
treasure hunt through the fashions of<br />
yesteryear. Next door there is also<br />
men’s clothing and shoes, as well as<br />
furniture more likely to be spotted in<br />
a 70s sci-fi fl ick. Prices here are not<br />
cheap, but they are justifi ed on the<br />
whole by the quality.<br />
61 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 62
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Babel<br />
K a s t a n i e n a l l e 3 3 ,<br />
U-bahn: Eberswalder<br />
Straße noon -<br />
midnight<br />
For a a kebab you won’t<br />
regret the morning<br />
after, Babel is the<br />
place to go. Serving Serving<br />
deliciously authentic<br />
meals at the walletfriendly<br />
price of of<br />
just just three three Euro, this<br />
makes the perfect perfect<br />
spot to stop off off for<br />
a quick bite between between<br />
bars. Particularly<br />
recommended are<br />
the chicken schwarma<br />
or grilled haloumi.<br />
Sitting on the the terrace<br />
outside is a good spot spot<br />
to watch the the well-towell-todo hipster inhabitants<br />
inhabitants<br />
of the surrounding<br />
area go preening and prancing about<br />
their business. The restaurant itself<br />
is run by a couple of genial Lebanese<br />
guys and attracts a healthy mix of<br />
homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and<br />
boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered<br />
is this place in fact that it has even<br />
made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20<br />
places to eat in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Focacceria Naturale<br />
Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder<br />
Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12.<br />
For a quick pit stop during shopping<br />
ventures on Kastanienalle, this<br />
ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great<br />
alternative from the often meatheavy<br />
Kebab and Currywurst stalls<br />
so readily found in <strong>Berlin</strong>. With<br />
toppings varying from spinach, ham,<br />
tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats<br />
cheese, and a sizeable slice costing<br />
only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect<br />
place for refuelling. What’s more,<br />
the juice bar along the counter offers<br />
similar variety. Freshly stocked from<br />
the vibrant fruit and veg shop next<br />
door, prices range from a pocketfriendly<br />
two to four euro depending<br />
on how much fruit you want thrown<br />
in. All in all, the perfect place to take<br />
a pause and plan your next shopping<br />
venture.<br />
Tabeyo<br />
Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn:<br />
Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402<br />
At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince<br />
on a pauper’s pocket. Offering<br />
freshly made sushi with good quality<br />
ingredients at the overtly generous<br />
price of two euro for six rolls, it is<br />
easy to see why this place has become<br />
a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s<br />
discerning residents.<br />
W-Imbiss<br />
www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee<br />
49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302<br />
0678 noon-midnight.<br />
Best described as an Indian-Italian-<br />
Californian fusion restaurant,<br />
W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of<br />
Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes<br />
its name from the German ‘Imbiss’<br />
meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo is<br />
the notorious golden arches turned<br />
upside down hinting that W-Imbiss<br />
is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef,<br />
Gordon W, dishes out everything from<br />
naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas,<br />
producing scrumptious, eccentric,<br />
gastronomy in minutes. A tannoy<br />
system declares your food is ready to<br />
be collected from the postage stamp<br />
sized kitchen. Choose to take away<br />
or eat outside among large plastic<br />
orange tables.<br />
63 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 64<br />
Fellas<br />
www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder<br />
Straße U-bahn: Schonhauser Allee.<br />
Tel:46796314; 10 am- 1am.<br />
If a big hearty salad is what you’re<br />
looking for, then head to Fellas. With<br />
enough greenery to last you a week<br />
this dimly lit, wooden furnished<br />
restaurant-come-bar is a great<br />
place for private dinners or long lazy<br />
lunches. Although fairly expensive,<br />
you’re money will defi antly go a<br />
long way. Order a Sportsfreund<br />
salad and a mount of crispy leaves,<br />
peppers, tomato, cucumber and<br />
succulent chicken will arrive a short<br />
while after (perhaps a little longer<br />
than you may like). If a salad is not<br />
what you’re after, soups, bagels<br />
and ciabatta sandwiches are also<br />
available for a more pocket friendly<br />
price. There are also generous happy<br />
hour(s) and limitless wifi .
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Hans Wurst Café<br />
w w w . m y s p a c e . c o m /<br />
hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr<br />
2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse.<br />
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel.<br />
030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm-<br />
12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4-<br />
9, lunch specials from 12-3.<br />
This vegan organic café is an<br />
excellent alternative to those who<br />
like unconventional menus. Its quaint<br />
atmosphere and relaxing ambience<br />
makes you feel welcome right from<br />
the start. It is fi lled with antique<br />
sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you<br />
Lorbeth Feine Kost<br />
Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn:<br />
Eberswalder Straße<br />
Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in<br />
traditional German cuisine with a<br />
contemporary twist. The café come<br />
restaurant provides traditional foods<br />
including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and<br />
Schnitzel, brought into the 21st<br />
century when mixed with usual<br />
and exciting fl avours. Greeted by a<br />
mishmash of tables and umbrellas<br />
surrounded by leafy plants, you can<br />
choose to eat indoors or out. Whether<br />
stopping by for a full-blown dinner or<br />
just tea and cake, the menu changes<br />
daily so you will never get bored of<br />
the delicious food. Fear not if your<br />
German is not yet fl uent, the friendly<br />
staff will help you with translation;<br />
they will happily consult an online<br />
to stay for as long as you please with<br />
access to free wifi . Juxtaposed to the<br />
antique furniture are the modern light<br />
fi xtures, fresh fl owers on every table,<br />
as well as the natural food choices.<br />
All of the dishes contain variations<br />
of tofu, including salads, burgers,<br />
sandwiches, and stir fry. There are<br />
various cakes and cookies for dessert.<br />
Additionally, the cafe hosts several<br />
parties a month introducing bands<br />
from all over the globe.<br />
German translator to decipher the<br />
delectable German menu. Doggy<br />
bags are available as is free WiFi.<br />
The Bird<br />
www.thebirdberlin.com. Am<br />
Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser<br />
Allee. Tel: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6<br />
pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight<br />
Two words: Meat heaven! Vegetarians<br />
are advised to stay away from this<br />
rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where<br />
even the Ceasar salad has steak in<br />
it. Serving the best burgers in <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />
devour a freshly ground Iowa steak<br />
patty, sandwiched between a toasted<br />
English muffi n served up with a crisp<br />
salad and a side of homemade fries.<br />
Its witty menu (which includes an<br />
obituary to a once popular burger no<br />
longer in production) will tempt you<br />
with a wealth of toppings from blue<br />
cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t<br />
whet your appetite then try the<br />
surprisingly cheaper option of steak<br />
also accompanied with salad and<br />
fries. Although cutlery is provided<br />
for the steak, eating burgers with<br />
your fi ngers is strongly advised!<br />
No need to worry about the mess<br />
though as kitchen roll accompanies<br />
the condiments on every table<br />
Nocti Vagus<br />
www.noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker<br />
Str. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder<br />
Platz. Tel: +49 3 074 749 123.<br />
Prices start from €49 including a<br />
show, and Mondays are cheaper<br />
with set menus starting from €29.<br />
Treat yourself to a high quality<br />
dinner in the dark in the original<br />
dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus.<br />
Prepare to awaken and revitalise<br />
the only four senses you have left…<br />
smells of the succulent food passing<br />
by will waft up your nose, noises of<br />
the anonymous patrons and blind<br />
waiters will fi ll your ears as you<br />
orientate yourself at your table by<br />
touch, and fi nally when your food<br />
arrives your taste buds will explode<br />
with the culinary delights the chefs<br />
have prepared especially for you.In<br />
this restaurant you will experience<br />
what it is like to be blind. You will<br />
form judgements, based not on<br />
appearance but, on how a person<br />
speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is<br />
not so easy when you’re blind and<br />
you will have to call for an escort<br />
to lead the way. Even pouring<br />
your drinks in the dark may prove<br />
diffi cult. Choose to eat with a<br />
knife and fork, or just get messy<br />
with your hands. Will you even fi nd<br />
65 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 66
Food & Drink<br />
your food and be able to tell what<br />
it is without sight? The challenges<br />
you’ll experience being blinded by<br />
the dark will open your mind and<br />
may change your preconceptions of<br />
what you thought it was like to have<br />
no vision.On<br />
arrival you will<br />
be welcomed<br />
into the<br />
restaurant bar<br />
which is located<br />
upstairs in the<br />
light. Here<br />
is where you<br />
decide what<br />
you would like<br />
to eat. Ordering<br />
c o u l d n ’ t<br />
be simpler,<br />
with three<br />
set menu’s<br />
incorporating<br />
three courses<br />
including a<br />
v e g e t a r i a n<br />
option and a<br />
fourth tailored<br />
surprise menu<br />
for those feeling<br />
a tad more daring. Once your order<br />
is placed a waiter will lead you down<br />
to the basement restaurant where<br />
the excitement begins.If eating in<br />
the dark does not sound enough of<br />
an experience, this restaurant also<br />
offers various shows to accompany<br />
your meal. These shows include<br />
various readers, singers, and actors<br />
who take to the dark stage for your<br />
entertainment. The timetable for<br />
these events<br />
is available on<br />
the website<br />
with dates for<br />
n o n - G e r m a n<br />
speaking tourists<br />
pointed out.<br />
Once you fi nish<br />
your meal and<br />
are welcomed<br />
back into the<br />
light, prepare<br />
to be surprised<br />
by what you<br />
thought you ate<br />
and what you<br />
thought your<br />
blind waiter<br />
looked like.<br />
Also make sure<br />
you check your<br />
shirt for debris;<br />
you never<br />
know what you<br />
dropped down there in the dark!<br />
Make a call and reserve your table<br />
because this place can get busy,<br />
then prepare for the unexpected.<br />
Zur Rose<br />
Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa-<br />
Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler<br />
platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am-<br />
1am,<br />
Sandwiched between a little row<br />
of the many eateries found in<br />
Rosenthaler<br />
Platz, is<br />
this bustling<br />
hangout. Its<br />
rustic style,<br />
with antique<br />
furnishings<br />
found in<br />
the back<br />
and small<br />
garden tables<br />
squeezed in<br />
the front,<br />
makes a<br />
p l e a s a n t<br />
place to to sit sit back back and contemplate<br />
a days sight seeing. The food comes<br />
in generous portions and budget<br />
friendly prices, where breakfasts<br />
and lunches range from 3-5€, and<br />
dinner plates including pastas and<br />
salads from 5-9€. Make sure to<br />
check out the “tap your own beer”<br />
service, where you can help yourself<br />
to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each).<br />
Cocktails are also good (and strong),<br />
and average around €5.<br />
Erdbeer<br />
Food & Drink<br />
Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa-<br />
Luxembourg Platz Open Summer<br />
2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late<br />
daily. No credit cards.<br />
Erdbeer’s proximity to the array<br />
of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz<br />
and Rosenthaler Platz makes<br />
it the perfect place to start an<br />
evening. Its reputation for mouthwatering<br />
and varied cocktails is well<br />
deserved, and the extensive menu<br />
only presents one problem: which<br />
drink to choose! Be prepared to<br />
splash out, as cocktail prices begin<br />
aaround Seven Euro. However, for<br />
the delicious drinks and intimate<br />
atmosphere, it is money well spent.<br />
During the week, an eclectic mix of<br />
music is played in the background<br />
at a fairly low level, offering guests<br />
the rare chance to have an audible<br />
conversation in such an environment.<br />
Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get<br />
guests revved up for the night ahead.<br />
The candle-lit tables, pink décor and<br />
mismatched chairs all add to the<br />
charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a<br />
low-key and relaxing venue, which also<br />
serves a wide selection of beers and<br />
non-alcoholic refreshments for noncocktail<br />
drinkers. Well worth a visit.<br />
67 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 68
Nightlife<br />
White Trash<br />
www.whitetrashfastfood.com<br />
Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa-<br />
Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668<br />
Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from<br />
6pm.<br />
Dining at White Trash is a sure-fi re<br />
way to induce a sensory overload.<br />
This converted Chinese<br />
restaurant, replete<br />
with gaudy Oriental<br />
fl ourishes and garnished<br />
with bizarre bric-abrac,<br />
serves up decent<br />
American-style dishes<br />
with incendiary titles<br />
such as “The Marquee<br />
de Fuck Burger”.<br />
Wolfi ng this down<br />
whilst being serenaded<br />
by a thrash metal band<br />
in what resembles a<br />
schizophrenic bordello<br />
provides a uniquely<br />
entertaining experience. When<br />
you’ve fi nished, or given up on, your<br />
outrageously large portion, head<br />
downstairs to dance off the calories<br />
in the misnomer that is though if easily<br />
offended. The Diamond Lounge, the<br />
dingy basement club. Here the music<br />
is loud and the acts vary from local<br />
upcoming indie bands to occasional<br />
internationally-known acts. As if all<br />
this wasn’t enough, there’s also an<br />
in-house tattoo parlour if you feel<br />
like permanently marking your body<br />
is the perfect accompaniment to a<br />
meal. The service has been known to<br />
be shoddy at times, and explicitly<br />
rude at others. By all accounts, you’re<br />
more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from<br />
your waiter than “Bon appetit!”<br />
However, go in expecting something<br />
a little different from your average<br />
culinary experience and you’ll be<br />
pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to<br />
steer clear<br />
Dr Pong<br />
Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00late<br />
Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1,<br />
M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late,<br />
Hidden away on a busy street in<br />
Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but<br />
dim lighting and occasional cheers to<br />
suggest it being open for business, is<br />
a cheap and a great way to spend an<br />
evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a<br />
5€ deposit is needed) and head to the<br />
sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged<br />
room whose focal point is a large ping<br />
pong table. The rules are simple:<br />
every time a new round starts, join<br />
the rotating circle of competitors and<br />
take turns in hitting the ball back to<br />
each other. If you miss a shot, join<br />
the many who simply come along to<br />
watch. Hit every shot and you will<br />
fi nd yourself in the fi ve-round-fi nale<br />
where although discreet, the winning<br />
title will gain you respect from<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s tabletennismegafans.<br />
Rounds<br />
can start with<br />
as little as 3<br />
to as many as<br />
30 players, so<br />
be confi dent<br />
to ensure you<br />
get a swing in.<br />
Best to come<br />
Nightlife<br />
in smaller groups, as large swathes<br />
of tourists can irritate the loyal<br />
punters. It empties out after awhile,<br />
so hold on if you’re fi nding it a bit<br />
overwhelming. Chessboards are also<br />
available if table tennis isn’t your<br />
thing.<br />
Rosengarten<br />
www.rosengarten-berlin.de. Weinbergsweg<br />
13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler<br />
Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun<br />
1pm – 12pm.<br />
Rosengarten is an excellent place<br />
to rest your feet with a cool drink<br />
after a day’s sightseeing or shopping.<br />
Beautifully situated by the<br />
eponymous rose garden in Volkspark<br />
Weinberg, the atmosphere<br />
is exceptionally laid back. Striped<br />
deckchairs are set out next to the<br />
small outdoor bar where super<br />
friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft<br />
drinks and cake. A great program of<br />
events is on<br />
offer, such as<br />
fi lm screenings<br />
and live<br />
music. On<br />
Wednesdays<br />
at 7pm there<br />
are even<br />
hula-hoop<br />
workshops.<br />
69 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 70
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
Alkatraz<br />
w w w. a l c a t r a z - b a c k p a c k e r.<br />
de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2<br />
Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30<br />
48496815<br />
S 40, D 25, T 22<br />
4 bedroom dorm 18<br />
8 bedroom dorm 16<br />
Apartments (4 people) 106, (5<br />
people) 116, (6 people) 126<br />
Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand<br />
This urban, hip hostel located on<br />
the busy street of Schönhauser Allee<br />
stands out from the rest. With its<br />
unique exterior of graffi ti, it’s hard<br />
to walk past without being intrigued<br />
by what lies within. You can fi nd<br />
all kinds of travellers residing here<br />
from students, backpackers, walkins<br />
and occasionally families. The<br />
small intimate courtyard is an ideal<br />
place to sit back and unwind. The<br />
common area with TV, table football,<br />
books and leafl ets galore make sure<br />
you will be kept busy. There is a<br />
lobby where computers are located<br />
with free internet access (you can<br />
also access the internet with your<br />
own notebook via wi-fi ). The selfservice<br />
kitchen/lounge is bright and<br />
colourful and has a relaxed vibe.<br />
East Seven Hostel<br />
www.eastseven.de. Schwedter<br />
Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz.<br />
Tel: 936 22 240<br />
Dorm: 17<br />
S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78<br />
Linen: 3<br />
Towels: 1euro<br />
Visa and Mastercard accepted (small<br />
fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover<br />
costs)<br />
Situated just north of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
über-hip Mitte district, this small,<br />
comfortable hostel offers travellers<br />
a wide range of clean, high quality<br />
affordable accommodation. With<br />
spacious bathrooms and hot showers<br />
on every fl oor, what more could<br />
a budding traveller ask for. Not to<br />
mention being surrounded by cafes,<br />
restaurants, nightlife and of course<br />
lots of shops. A trip to the famous<br />
Mauer Park fl eamarket on Sunday is<br />
a must. Or relax in the cosy garden<br />
house/barbeque area among other<br />
guests. The friendly and welcoming<br />
staff are always on hand 24/7 with<br />
tips and tricks to help you make the<br />
most of your time in the city. The<br />
hostel offers a range of services<br />
including: laundry service, free<br />
lockers in rooms, free luggage<br />
storage, free maps and free wi-fi .<br />
The East Seven <strong>Berlin</strong> hostel fosters a<br />
relaxed atmosphere all year round.<br />
Lette’m Sleep<br />
www.backpackers.de. Lettestraße<br />
7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße.<br />
Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49<br />
(0)30 44733625<br />
7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€,<br />
5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€,<br />
3 bed dorms 21€<br />
Twin room: 49€<br />
Apartment: 69€/room a night for<br />
two people<br />
Linen: Included no charge<br />
Towels: 70cent<br />
“Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make<br />
you eat your passport!” – is the note<br />
you will fi nd in the kitchen of this<br />
laidback hostel. The bright<br />
orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep<br />
fi t in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s<br />
vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel<br />
hosts a mixture of nationalities<br />
all year round; backpackers from<br />
Finland, a family from Spain, an<br />
American biker… you’ll fi nd them<br />
here. With its no curfew policy<br />
travellers may come and go as they<br />
please. The little common room has<br />
everything you could need including<br />
free internet, tea, coffee, and a<br />
great DVD collection. This hostel has<br />
the vibe of <strong>Berlin</strong> built in. It’s downto-earth,<br />
nonchalant cool.<br />
71 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 72
Potsdamer Platz<br />
& Tiergarten<br />
Potsdamer Platz is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s newest<br />
quarter. Showcasing architectural<br />
gems such as the dramatic Sony<br />
Centre, the square is dominated by<br />
mainstream commercial success.<br />
Providing three multiplex cinemas,<br />
a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton,<br />
Europe’s largest casino and a<br />
multitude of non-descript bars<br />
and restaurants, the development<br />
of Potsdamer Platz has not been<br />
without its critics. That being said,<br />
the bustling centre continues to<br />
attract tourists and locals alike.<br />
Whether it is for the impressive<br />
architecture, the selection of<br />
museums, events such as the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx),<br />
or simply as a means to witness the<br />
enormous renewal of the square,<br />
there is no doubting that this is one<br />
of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s busiest areas.<br />
It could be said that Potsdamer<br />
Platz is a version of its former self.<br />
In the early 20th Century the square<br />
was one of Europe’s biggest traffi c<br />
centres that defi ned <strong>Berlin</strong> and it is<br />
even said to have housed Europe’s<br />
fi rst electric traffi c lights. While a<br />
replica of the lights can now be seen<br />
as soon as you step off the S-Bahn,<br />
little else exists that acknowledges<br />
the history of the area.<br />
During WW2, much of Potsdamer<br />
Information<br />
Platz turned to rubble, and when<br />
the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall was erected straight<br />
through the heart of the square in<br />
1961, all transport connections were<br />
cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost<br />
town.<br />
Situated close to Potsdamer Platz<br />
is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s answer to Hyde Park:<br />
Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a<br />
hunting ground in the 17th Century,<br />
today Tiergarten is a popular spot<br />
for relaxing in the sun after a day<br />
of cultural activity. Escape from the<br />
city in the green open space or visit<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s zoo situated on the outskirts.<br />
73 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 74
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Kulturforum<br />
Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn:<br />
U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz<br />
The Kulturforum is a complex of<br />
some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s main galleries<br />
and museums. It was planned out<br />
post World War Two, after several<br />
important cultural institutions<br />
were cut off from West <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />
and build on a site that had been<br />
cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The<br />
Neue Nationalgalerie was built<br />
fi rst in 1968, at a time when the<br />
Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel<br />
was separated by the wall on the<br />
Eastern side of the city. It now<br />
contains an unmissable collection<br />
of 20th century art, even if the<br />
permanent collection often gives<br />
way to (also excellent) temporary<br />
exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie<br />
(Painting Gallery) is also world-<br />
Bargain time...<br />
class, with its collection of European Old<br />
Master paintings. Joining this building<br />
are also the Kunstgewerbemuseum<br />
(Museum of Decorative Art), the<br />
Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints<br />
and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek<br />
(Art Library). The Philharmonie is<br />
home to the <strong>Berlin</strong> Philharmonic<br />
Orchestra, and is an astounding<br />
golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped<br />
masterpiece of a building designed by<br />
Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation<br />
for superb acoustics. Next door, the<br />
Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small<br />
museum of musical instruments from<br />
the sixteenth century on, with guides<br />
giving performances on Saturdays at<br />
11am. And if all that wasn’t enough,<br />
the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is<br />
also here, another Scharoun building<br />
(haunted by angels in the classic <strong>Berlin</strong>based<br />
fi lm Wings of Desire) and has a<br />
great selection of books in English.<br />
Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museums at the<br />
kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes<br />
the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum<br />
of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings),<br />
Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-Museum<br />
(Musical Instruments Museum).<br />
Gemäldergalerie<br />
Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266<br />
2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm<br />
Thur. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz<br />
The Gemäldergalerie, part of the<br />
Kulturforum, is impressive to say the<br />
least. This picture gallery houses<br />
European works spanning the 13th<br />
through the 18th centuries. Pieces<br />
by masters such as Jan van Eyck,<br />
Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt,<br />
Vermeer and Dürer are the crown<br />
jewels in an already stunning<br />
collection. Aside from the 1500<br />
works housed here, the other half of<br />
the collection remains in the Bode<br />
Museum in Mitte. The museum itself<br />
consists of a large central hall fl anked<br />
by series of galleries on either side.<br />
Advance through history as you move<br />
through the museum, with the newest<br />
works at the back. Due to the sheer<br />
number of works, it would be advisable<br />
to spare a couple of hours to see the<br />
whole collection. If you don’t have<br />
that much time to spare, then choose<br />
a couple centuries or artists to see for<br />
a shorter, less intensive visit.<br />
75 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 76
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Neue-national Gallerie<br />
www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.<br />
Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S-<br />
Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30<br />
266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am-<br />
6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat<br />
10am-8pm. Price: €5-10.<br />
Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in<br />
itself not to be missed. Designed by<br />
Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts<br />
special temporary exhibitions that<br />
can last for a couple of years as well<br />
as works of classical Modernism and<br />
1960-70s art work. The permanent<br />
exhibition is located in the lower<br />
part of the gallery.<br />
The temporary collections focus<br />
on representations of Cubism,<br />
Expressionism, Surrealism and the<br />
Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume<br />
(Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung<br />
Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition<br />
is running up until November 2009.<br />
The Bilderträume is an unmissable<br />
opportunity to view possibly the<br />
most private collection in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
What makes this exhibition so unique<br />
is the collection is solely based on<br />
two distinctive styles; Surrealism<br />
and Abstract Expressionism. The art<br />
of Surrealism is a style that was fi rst<br />
developed from direct Surrealist<br />
infl uences in New York following<br />
WWII and is still recognised today.<br />
This forms the core of the collection<br />
while the second part of the collection<br />
focuses on the early works of Abstract<br />
Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner<br />
Pietzsch collection began over 40<br />
years ago and comprises of over 180<br />
artistic pieces by some of the world’s<br />
most infl uential artists, such as Max<br />
Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning.<br />
Walking around this remarkable gallery<br />
are amazing pieces of art that go from<br />
stunning to bizarre, fantastical to<br />
grotesque. What’s more the artists’<br />
surreal and abstract styles are<br />
perfectly presented throughout the<br />
exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity<br />
and wonder around each corner.<br />
The exhibition illustrates the<br />
development of abstract expressionism<br />
and surrealism and it is truly amazing<br />
how each artist individually conveys<br />
this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can<br />
be found on the website.<br />
Museum fur Film und<br />
Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum)<br />
www.deutsche-kinemathek.de.<br />
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel:<br />
+49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am-<br />
6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50<br />
concession<br />
A treasure to fi lm enthusiasts and<br />
history nuts alike, this museum Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the<br />
focuses on the last 100 years of permanent exhibition is a temporary<br />
German fi lm history. A particular “Moments in Time 1989/1990” display.<br />
emphasis is placed on the golden Following the fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> wall<br />
era, when <strong>Berlin</strong> came close to and aware that their protest could<br />
matching those of Hollywood. no longer be stopped, <strong>Berlin</strong>ers<br />
Upon entering, be sure to grab the<br />
free audio guide. Take a wander<br />
through the permanent exhibition.<br />
Images invert and skew and refl ect<br />
as mirrors and irregular walls almost<br />
convey a walk within the confi nes<br />
of the lens of a camera. Black<br />
and white fi lms are beautifully<br />
juxtaposed against the modern<br />
interior decor and each exhibit is<br />
insightful and to the point. Presented<br />
chronologically, classic fi lm fans will<br />
relish behind-the-scenes glimpses<br />
of fi lms including “Das Cabinet Des<br />
Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis”<br />
increasingly felt a desire to capture<br />
events on fi lm. Taken by private<br />
individuals in diverse and personal<br />
ways, the presentation sheds some<br />
additional light on the most important<br />
period in post-war German history<br />
in a colourful and insightful manner.<br />
Leaving as much to the imagination as<br />
objectively illustrating the events and<br />
emotions felt at the time, the display<br />
is a rare insight into the events of 1989<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> from the perspectives of directly<br />
affected individuals set comparatively<br />
against worldwide news reports issued<br />
at the same time.<br />
77 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 78
Arts & Culture<br />
Zoologischer Garten<br />
Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn -<br />
Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30<br />
25401- 0, info@zoo-berlin.deOpened<br />
in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in<br />
Germany and one of the largest<br />
zoos in the world, with the widest<br />
variety of species which doesn’t fail<br />
to impress from the moment you<br />
step through the gates. The park<br />
itself is visually stunning with lush<br />
green trees and intermittent water<br />
features.<br />
Even if you’re not interested<br />
in the surrounding the sheer<br />
range of species won’t leave you<br />
disappointed. With around 14,000<br />
animals, there is plenty to see and a<br />
lot of ground to cover. Give yourself<br />
plenty of time for the visit as it is<br />
very easy to spend the best part of the<br />
day there, and comfortable footwear<br />
is defi nitely recommended. There are<br />
plenty of places to get a drink or snack<br />
within the park and also there is a large<br />
restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie,<br />
located at the heart of the zoo.<br />
One of the best times of day to see<br />
the animals is at feeding time and<br />
the times are posted on signs at the<br />
enclosures. Unfortunately there are<br />
no free maps and information leafl ets,<br />
although there is a map in the back of<br />
the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which<br />
will set you back €4.<br />
If you don’t want to shell out for a<br />
book there are maps located at regular<br />
intervals around the zoo and it is fairly<br />
easy to navigate or you can download<br />
a plan of the zoo from their website.<br />
Kunst und Trödel Märkte<br />
www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de.<br />
Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026<br />
550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat-<br />
Sun 10am-5pm<br />
The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring<br />
Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt<br />
are bustling, busy <strong>Berlin</strong> weekend<br />
markets that offer an interesting<br />
and distinctive experience. They<br />
boast unique artifacts and clothing<br />
and there are great bargains to be<br />
had, especially if you’re ready to<br />
haggle.<br />
At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the<br />
muddle of second-hand and vintage<br />
clothing and jewellery, antique<br />
furniture and silverware, old<br />
paintings, collector’s coins and used<br />
records and books, there is sure<br />
to be something that catches your<br />
eye.<br />
The Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt<br />
is located just through the<br />
Charlottenburg Gate and across<br />
the Landswehrkanal from the<br />
Trödelmarkt. Here local artists and<br />
designers display and sell their work<br />
including jewellery, wooden toys,<br />
ceramics, paintings and clothing.<br />
The selection ranges from gaudy to<br />
tasteful but all items are certainly<br />
original.<br />
Arts & Culture<br />
Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz<br />
www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de<br />
Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn:<br />
Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 3025 59270.<br />
Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.<br />
For the mainstream shopping<br />
experience, head to Arkaden. Situated<br />
in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer<br />
Platz, this three-storey complex<br />
epitomises what this oncehistoric<br />
site now has to offer. The commercial<br />
shopping mall houses European fashion<br />
favourites such as Mango, H&M and<br />
Zara as well as Tommy Hilfi ger and<br />
Swarovski for the high-end shoppers.<br />
While including internationally<br />
renowned stores and commonplace<br />
establishments like McDonalds and<br />
Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a<br />
moderate selection of German gems.<br />
Take a look in Bree for a selection<br />
of <strong>Berlin</strong>-made leather handbags or<br />
try Sergio Engel for locally produced<br />
jewellery.<br />
79 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 80
Arts & Culture<br />
Rowing in the Tiergarten<br />
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn:<br />
Tiergarten/Zoological.<br />
25 44 930.<br />
Tel:30<br />
The lake in the Tiergarten is the<br />
perfect place to relax. On the<br />
grassy shores of Neuer See are<br />
relaxing deck chairs where you<br />
can take a nap, or enjoy a beer<br />
from the nearby beer garden<br />
(see page). For those looking<br />
for a bit of fun, you can also<br />
rent rowboats and go exploring.<br />
On jumping into the boats, it<br />
doesn’t seem like you have far<br />
to go. Although the late isn’t<br />
huge, there are many little<br />
passageways that adventurers<br />
can paddle through and explore.<br />
Watch out for fi sh, ducks, and<br />
the rare turtle. The odd collision<br />
with another boat is always a<br />
possibility. Prices for the boats<br />
start at €5 for 30minutes and<br />
€10 for 60minutes. Up to fi ve<br />
people can fi t in the boat and<br />
life vests are provided if needed.<br />
The rental is inexpensive for<br />
budgeting travellers who have<br />
a few friends to share the boat<br />
with.<br />
Cafe an Neuen See<br />
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/<br />
Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:<br />
€5-15.<br />
Charm and atmosphere surround<br />
this quaint little beer garden<br />
nestled in the north-west corner of<br />
the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending<br />
in with the surrounding green areas<br />
the English Garden remains one<br />
of the hidden gems in the massive<br />
park. This particular stop can prove<br />
a bit challenging to fi nd due to its<br />
size and unpretentious demeanour,<br />
however a little navigating and<br />
exploring will yield a highly enjoyable<br />
experience.<br />
Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof<br />
cottage, it’s not diffi cult to see why<br />
the beer garden has been granted its<br />
moniker. Echoing scenes of English<br />
countryside, this establishment<br />
provides a well needed break from<br />
the hustle and bustle of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
outside the Tiergarten boundaries.<br />
Look for the English Garden on a<br />
weekday and you could easily miss it.<br />
Look for it on a weekend, and all you<br />
need to do is follow the jazz music.<br />
Every weekend the English Garden<br />
is host to a slew of jazz ensembles<br />
which draw a large crowd to the<br />
otherwise calm watering hole.<br />
Food & Drink<br />
Music played until sunset combined<br />
with the beautiful urroundings makes<br />
this place an inevitable stop on a<br />
weekend Tiergarten stroll.<br />
Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2<br />
to €4. Food starts from €4 with their<br />
menu (although slightly limited in<br />
hot foods) provides an extensive icecream<br />
and milkshake list. On the<br />
weekends, during jazz concerts the<br />
English Garden also opens additional<br />
food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish<br />
and other world cuisines.<br />
English Garden<br />
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/<br />
Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:<br />
€5-15.<br />
Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer<br />
garden tops the list. Cold beer, good<br />
food and a magical atmosphere awaits<br />
your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden<br />
in the trees, you can rent boats and<br />
row around the lake or take over some<br />
deckchairs on the grass.<br />
Dinner will set you back around 10€.<br />
Grab eine Maß (a pint of beer) and<br />
fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of fi nely<br />
ground corned beef, pork and onions)<br />
with potato salad, snuggle onto one of<br />
the communal tables – don’t be shy,<br />
and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere<br />
with some friends.<br />
81 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 82
Food & Drink<br />
Let’s be honest...<br />
Potsdammer Platz is expensive,<br />
touristy and lacking in quality<br />
when it comes to food and<br />
drink. You would be much<br />
better hopping on the U -Bahn<br />
and going elsewhere. If you<br />
absolutely must dine here,<br />
listed below are a few places<br />
you could try. If they don’t<br />
tempt you numerous generic<br />
restaurants and bars can be<br />
found in the Sony centre.<br />
Weilands Wellfood<br />
www.weilands-wellfood.de<br />
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn:<br />
Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717<br />
If feeling a bit bloated after too<br />
much beer and bratwurst, head<br />
to this wholesome self-service<br />
buffet. Satisfying the most health<br />
conscious consumers, benefi t from<br />
salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat<br />
pasta dishes. Reasonably priced<br />
averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be<br />
warned that fl avours may differ<br />
from what’s advertised. Free WiFi<br />
available.<br />
Billy Wilders<br />
www.billywilders.de Potsdamer<br />
Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz<br />
Tel: 030-26 55 48 60<br />
Much like its namesake, Billy<br />
Wilder’s offers something a little<br />
different from its contemporaries.<br />
Surrounded on all fronts by<br />
corporate brands and identikit bars,<br />
this bar is a pocket of character in<br />
an otherwise bland area. Presided<br />
over by a large portrait of the<br />
acclaimed director, responsible for<br />
the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting<br />
around the curved bar drinking tall<br />
drinks whilst admiring the sleek art<br />
deco interior is glamorous nostalgia,<br />
all the more emphatic in its contrast<br />
to the concrete jungle outside its<br />
doors. Just a lift ride away from<br />
the Museum of Cinema, there is no<br />
more fi tting way to refl ect on the<br />
golden age of Hollywood. They say<br />
they don’t make like they used to;<br />
well, in this case they do. Prices are<br />
however indicative of the area so<br />
best to get there during happy hour.<br />
83 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 84
Freidrichshain Information<br />
An up and coming neighbourhood<br />
in East <strong>Berlin</strong>, Friedrichshain offers<br />
travellers a look into <strong>Berlin</strong>’s vibrant<br />
bar, café, club, and restaurant<br />
culture.<br />
The neighbourhood boasts an<br />
extensive nightlife where travellers<br />
can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse,<br />
enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the<br />
beach bars on the Spree, experience<br />
the underground punk scene, or have<br />
a sleepless weekend gyrating on a<br />
dance fl oor until Sunday afternoon.<br />
Friedrichshain is unmistakeably<br />
a neighbourhood of the East with<br />
Socialist architecture and its grand<br />
boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx-<br />
Allee, formerly Stalinallee.<br />
The East Side Gallery is the star<br />
tourist attraction of this district. It is<br />
the longest intact part of the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Wall, with many murals created by<br />
known and unknown artists alike.<br />
Gentrifi cation is quickly closing in<br />
on this eccentric neighbourhood.<br />
The O2 World Arena recently opened<br />
and there are plans to continue<br />
developing and do away with many of<br />
the quirks like its famed beach bars,<br />
which make this neighbourhood tick.<br />
Hopefully, the area will survive this<br />
demolition and continue to fl ourish<br />
under <strong>Berlin</strong>’s counter culture.<br />
85 Freidrichshain 86
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
East Side Gallery<br />
w w w. e a s t s i d e g a l l e r y. c o m .<br />
Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/<br />
Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission.<br />
Located in an area where sightseeing<br />
is all but void this 1.3km long stretch<br />
of the former <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall is now<br />
home to murals created by 118<br />
artists around the world. Opening<br />
as a gallery in 1990 the section is a<br />
celebration of the fall of the wall and<br />
a symbol of freedom and expression.<br />
It is also the longest remaining<br />
section of this concrete divider left<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Upon approaching this outdoor<br />
gallery the €2.2 million restoration<br />
process taking place is evident.<br />
Freshly reconditioned murals shine<br />
out beside the rawness of original<br />
sections scarred by weathering and<br />
often less artistic graffi ti. The gallery<br />
is now being renovated in stages in<br />
preparation for the 20th anniversary<br />
of the reunifi cation of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’<br />
process as only 80% of the original<br />
artists were able to be contacted to<br />
restore their own pieces.<br />
Famous murals which have been<br />
replicated without the artists’<br />
permission include “God help<br />
me to survive this deadly love”,<br />
by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which<br />
portrays communist leaders Erich<br />
Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked<br />
in a passionate embrace. Another<br />
iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly<br />
illustrates an East German Trabant<br />
bursting through the Wall in a<br />
symbolic representation of a failed<br />
escape attempt. A visit to the sight<br />
before the fi nal section is repainted<br />
allows the visitor the form their own<br />
opinion on which best represents<br />
freedom and expression.<br />
87 88
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Qrazy:Ling’s<br />
www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13<br />
Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493<br />
157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pmlate,<br />
Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to<br />
€9.<br />
The strikingly colourful graffi ti façade<br />
of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out<br />
authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but<br />
on entrance you’ll fi nd an intricate<br />
hand-made décor and an impressive<br />
menu of mouth-watering delights.<br />
Vietnamese food is all about fresh<br />
ingredients and fragrant aromas and<br />
Qrazy:Ling’s food certainly embraces<br />
this tradition.<br />
Whether you go for the traditional<br />
simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho<br />
or the rice noodles with deliciously<br />
marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will<br />
be surprised at how much fl avour<br />
one mouthful can deliver. The main<br />
meals are generously portioned with<br />
affordable prices so you won’t go<br />
home feeling hungry at the slightest.<br />
Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected<br />
via an arch to art store Quality<br />
Lovers which explains why this<br />
traditional Vietnamese restaurant<br />
has such a quirky modern feel and a<br />
relaxed atmosphere to match.<br />
Service can be slow with big groups,<br />
but for Ling’s utterly delectable<br />
food, it is defi nitely worth the wait.<br />
Cayetanom Mediterranean<br />
Restaurant<br />
Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn:<br />
Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730<br />
042. Price: €5-10.<br />
Settled in amongst trendy shops,<br />
ice-cream parlors and cobblestone<br />
pathways, Cayetano is perfectly<br />
located for a mid-day sustenance<br />
break. A number of outdoor tables<br />
provide a cool, shaded atmosphere<br />
for eating, drinking and peoplewatching<br />
and the servers are<br />
courteous and hospitable. The<br />
portions are generous and come<br />
with a fresh side salad as well as<br />
soft, white bread.<br />
The diner can choose between a<br />
number of items, ranging from<br />
American-style burgers, Italian<br />
pasta dishes and typical German<br />
fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly<br />
doused with tangy feta and balsamic,<br />
the salads are perfect for lunch and<br />
not to be missed in the evening is the<br />
fi lling spätzle dishes: small potato<br />
dumplings smothered with fresh herbs<br />
and dotted with mushrooms, carrots<br />
and chicken. Vegetarian options are<br />
also available. Whether it’s for a<br />
fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break<br />
or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers<br />
it all in the way of a smiling staff,<br />
fi lling food and a soothing setting.<br />
If you’re in the area on Sunday,<br />
Cayetano also offers an all-you-caneat<br />
brunch on Sundays from 10am-<br />
3pm.<br />
89 90
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar<br />
www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn:<br />
Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse.<br />
Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49<br />
3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am,<br />
Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10.<br />
Situated on a busy street bursting<br />
with worldwide cuisines at every<br />
turn, Don is the place to be for<br />
deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic<br />
cocktails.<br />
Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour<br />
of up to 50% off selected dishes<br />
from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s<br />
starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish,<br />
it’s a great way of trying the large<br />
range of sushi they have on offer.<br />
You can even watch the sushi chef at<br />
work as he makes your sushi, which<br />
adds a personal touch, and you can<br />
be guaranteed that the fi sh is fresh!<br />
Although the portions are slightly on<br />
the small side the reduced price that<br />
you pay means you are getting your<br />
money’s worth, rather than being<br />
overcharged for normal prices.<br />
Sushi is usually associated with sake<br />
and green tea, so it may seem odd<br />
that Don Sushi offers a variety of<br />
cocktails alongside its sushi menu.<br />
Starting from €4 per glass, they are<br />
refreshing little treats at the end of<br />
a long day or alternatively the start<br />
of a long night of exploring the city.<br />
A handy tip: there is only one sushi<br />
chef so it is recommended to go in<br />
smaller groups to avoid a long wait,<br />
as all orders for the same table arrive<br />
together.<br />
Cafe Sibylle<br />
Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn:<br />
Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz.<br />
Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm.<br />
Price: €0-5.<br />
With a unique history spanning<br />
back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle,<br />
originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles<br />
as both a cafe, and a communist<br />
museum.<br />
The cafe offers an assortment of<br />
freshly baked cakes, ice-cream,<br />
sandwiches, as well as a great<br />
selection of cocktails, and nonalcoholic<br />
drinks. While waiting for<br />
your order, you are free to walk<br />
around, and look at their collection<br />
of Eastern Germany-era artifacts.<br />
Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor<br />
and outdoor seating. This unusual,<br />
half-furnished cafe does a great<br />
job meshing together modern art<br />
with its utilitarian past. Behind<br />
the brightly colored statues and<br />
paintings, it is still possible to see<br />
the bland colourless walls from its<br />
GDR days.<br />
With rhythmic jazz music in the<br />
background and their eclectic décor,<br />
indoors is a great place to sit and<br />
chat, or to get some work done.<br />
Outdoor seating might require a<br />
wait, but it does provide a great view<br />
of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee.<br />
This historical street, renamed after<br />
Stalin was removed from power, was<br />
where East <strong>Berlin</strong>ers used to watch<br />
the tanks roll by during the annual<br />
military parades.<br />
With some coffee, cake, and<br />
communism, this is an enjoyable way<br />
to learn about an important piece of<br />
German history.<br />
91 92
Nightlife Nightlife<br />
Lebowski’s<br />
www.kneipe-lebowski.de.<br />
Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn:<br />
Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733<br />
561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price:<br />
€2-5.<br />
An upside down bowling alley peering<br />
down on patrons as they happily sip<br />
away at their white Russians sets<br />
the scene for this Friedrichshain<br />
institution. Lebowski’s, a bar<br />
based around the cult movie The<br />
Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array<br />
of colourful characters, most of<br />
which have taken the movie’s main<br />
character, The Dude, as a style icon,<br />
donning trench coats, long hair and<br />
even longer unkempt beards.<br />
Lebowski’s manages to avoid the<br />
common corny and trite pitfalls that<br />
other themed bars tend to suffer<br />
from. Managing to perfectly strike a<br />
balance between paying tribute to<br />
the cult movie while maintaining the<br />
charm and charisma of the <strong>Berlin</strong> dive<br />
bar scene, this watering hole serves<br />
up heaps of personality. Wooden<br />
columns and secluded nooks provide<br />
an intimate and fun atmosphere for<br />
a relaxed drink or an absinth-soaked<br />
night of craziness.<br />
The walls are covered with effi gies<br />
of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman<br />
and Steve Buscemi, portraying their<br />
characters in the movie and during<br />
themed nights the movie is played<br />
repeatedly on screens throughout the<br />
bar; walk into the restrooms of this<br />
weird and wonderful bar and you can<br />
hear The Big Lebowski through the<br />
loudspeakers dubbed into German.<br />
This drinking establishment has<br />
certainly been built by fans of the<br />
movie for fans of the movie.<br />
As such, no fan should leave without<br />
having a White Russian, The Dude’s<br />
favourite drink. White Russians will<br />
run at €4.90 while draught beer runs<br />
at under €3.<br />
Cassiopeia<br />
www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler<br />
Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer<br />
Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594.<br />
Entry: €4-8.<br />
Along Friedrichshain’s infamous<br />
Simon-Dach-Straße you can fi nd a<br />
vast array of bars but for something<br />
a bit different head towards Revaler<br />
Straße to stumble across the underworld<br />
that is Cassiopeia.<br />
There are two club fl oors that host a<br />
wide range of musicians and djs from<br />
a local standard right up to internationally<br />
renowned acts. Open every<br />
night of the week except Mondays<br />
you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock,<br />
hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n<br />
bass and much more but be sure to<br />
check on their website to fi nd out<br />
what’s on.<br />
Set in over 4,000m² of old factory<br />
halls there is plenty of space to let<br />
yourself go and soak up the unique<br />
experience that this place has to offer.<br />
Once inside the compound there<br />
is a great feeling of separation from<br />
the outside world due to the high<br />
factory walls and towering trees but<br />
you are given an enormous sense of<br />
freedom by the sheer vastness of it<br />
all.<br />
93 94
Astro<br />
Nightlife Nightlife<br />
Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U-<br />
Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3<br />
029 661 615.<br />
This sci-fi themed bar is always an<br />
excellent place to start or fi nish<br />
the night. It’s often guaranteed to<br />
attract a fairly young crowd including<br />
a number of tourists and with the<br />
intimacy of the place it’s great for<br />
meeting new people from all walks<br />
of life.<br />
Hanging from the ceiling are robots<br />
and behind the bar is made to look like<br />
the control panel of a space shuttle.<br />
Go through to the back room and<br />
they even have the game Asteroids<br />
playing behind glass panels.<br />
Aside from the space adventure the<br />
drinks are reasonably priced and<br />
the bar staff are often very friendly.<br />
There are a wide range of cocktails<br />
which are all large and very strong -<br />
highly recommended is the caipirinha<br />
for €5.<br />
There is always good music playing<br />
from electro to punk to reggae and<br />
on weekends there are live DJ sets.<br />
Granted there is no room to dance<br />
but foot tapping and moderate hip<br />
movements are encouraged.<br />
Kptn A. Müller<br />
www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse<br />
32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer<br />
Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks<br />
€0-4.<br />
There is one reason you have<br />
to visit this bar – the drinks are<br />
cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the<br />
mismatched decor might be as well,<br />
it just adds to the atmosphere and<br />
at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg<br />
who’s complaining?<br />
It’s not just the beer either, cocktails<br />
are mostly available at around €3.50<br />
and they are not shy of alcohol either.<br />
Basically your fi rst €10 will get you a<br />
long way.<br />
The only downside is that it can be<br />
a little cramped and the outside<br />
seating and tables are packed away<br />
at about 11.30pm. However this<br />
should not deter, if all the seats are<br />
taken you can stand up and play<br />
table football in the back room.<br />
Internationales <strong>Berlin</strong>er<br />
Bierfestival<br />
www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl-<br />
Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor<br />
or Strausberger Platz. First weekend<br />
of August. Free admittance.<br />
On the fi rst weekend of every August<br />
Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into<br />
what has been dubbed as ‘the<br />
longest beer garden in the world’.<br />
Running from Frankfurter Tor to<br />
Strausberger Platz, the <strong>Berlin</strong> ‘Beer<br />
Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000<br />
guests sampling 1800 varieties of<br />
beer from around the world.<br />
The International Beer Festival is<br />
a vibrant blend of entertainment,<br />
eating, drinking and a great place<br />
to catch a glimpse of <strong>Berlin</strong>ers at<br />
play. Attracting a mix of young, old,<br />
tourists and locals alike the crowd<br />
is as diverse as the choice of beers.<br />
An assortment of live music keeps<br />
the slow moving crowd entertained<br />
as they amble through. Taster mugs,<br />
available on entry for €3.50, are a<br />
convenient way of sampling the vast<br />
range of beer on offer.<br />
Also be sure to stop at one of the<br />
reasonably priced food stalls for<br />
a beer-complimenting snack such<br />
as currywurst or potato salad. A<br />
mishmash of unique architecture,<br />
novelty hats and quirky waitresses<br />
make this event well worth a visit.<br />
However be aware of a change in<br />
atmosphere after dark as the relaxed<br />
environment is often disrupted by<br />
those who have had one too many in<br />
the sun.<br />
95 96
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
Eastern Comfort Hostel<br />
Boat<br />
www.easterncomfort.com.<br />
Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U-<br />
Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: +<br />
49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am-<br />
12am.<br />
Prices:<br />
1st class cabins:<br />
€64-78<br />
Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19<br />
Dorms: cost €16pp<br />
Camping costs €12pp<br />
For those looking for a bit of<br />
adventure on the open seas, or in<br />
this case the open Spree, the Eastern<br />
Comfort Hostelboat is ideal.<br />
Straddling two up-and-coming<br />
neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and<br />
Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the<br />
ideal location. The hostel itself has<br />
kept its original design and offers<br />
fi rst- and second-class cabins on the<br />
upper and lower decks of the ship.<br />
First class is on the upper deck, and<br />
includes private rooms with their<br />
own bathrooms and views of the<br />
East Side Gallery or the Spree River.<br />
The lower deck is for aspiring sailors<br />
with a tight budget. The rooms are<br />
dorm style complete with their own<br />
bathrooms and portholes overlooking<br />
the river. There is also an option for<br />
campers, who can set up tents on the<br />
back of the boat. The fl oating lounge<br />
on the top deck is a must see.<br />
* Internet available<br />
* Free wi-fi<br />
* Breakfast €4<br />
* Bedding €5/byo<br />
* No curfew<br />
* Bicycle-hire<br />
* Laundry service<br />
Ostel - Das GDR Design<br />
Hostel<br />
www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5.<br />
S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025<br />
768 660.<br />
Prices:<br />
Dorm room: €9<br />
Single room: €33<br />
Double room: €54<br />
Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to<br />
re-live the days of the GDR before<br />
the wall fell? Then the Ostel Hostel<br />
is an excellent choice.<br />
The hostel has embraced the idea of<br />
Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for<br />
life in the former GDR, which is still<br />
present in <strong>Berlin</strong>er society today.<br />
Each room had been decorated to<br />
emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete<br />
with typical GDR household items,<br />
such as patterned wallpaper, mod<br />
lamps, and shag carpeting.<br />
The hostel is not the most social<br />
hostel since rooms are spread out<br />
between a series of apartment<br />
buildings, but each room is<br />
immaculately clean and has its own<br />
bathroom and a balcony.<br />
The staff are very friendly and<br />
helpful and always willing to answer<br />
questions. The hostel is located a few<br />
metres from the Ostbahnhof station,<br />
which is just a few stops away from<br />
Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte.<br />
* Breakfast €4.50<br />
* Bike rental<br />
* Wi-fi<br />
97 98
Kreuzberg Information<br />
Kreuzberg is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s bastion of<br />
counterculture, famous for its<br />
punks, squatters, alternative art<br />
scene and May Day riots. The Eastern<br />
section, from Kottbusser Tor to the<br />
Spree River, is the grittiest, and<br />
the place where the squat scene<br />
developed during the Cold War.<br />
The area remains <strong>Berlin</strong>’s centre of<br />
alternative politics and nightlife,<br />
with a profusion of riverside bars<br />
and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of<br />
the main streets, and Wiener Straβe,<br />
Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische<br />
Straβe are also good for nightlife<br />
and cheap eateries.<br />
Along with its bohemian residents,<br />
Kreuzberg is home to <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />
largest Turkish community, with<br />
one in three residents of Turkish<br />
origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’<br />
were invited to <strong>Berlin</strong> after cheap<br />
East German labour was made<br />
unavailable when the wall went up.<br />
It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born<br />
Mahmut Aygun invented the doner<br />
kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still<br />
stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The<br />
area teems with kebab shops, and<br />
every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish<br />
market spills out along the river at<br />
the Maybachufer.<br />
The area to the West of Kottbusser<br />
Tor is slightly more upmarket.<br />
Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and<br />
the streets around Viktoriapark are<br />
some of the liveliest for shops and<br />
cafes. The more conventional tourist<br />
attractions are also in the West,<br />
and include the Jewish Museum and<br />
Checkpoint Charlie.<br />
99 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 100
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>ische Galerie<br />
(<strong>Berlin</strong> Gallery)<br />
Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn:<br />
Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26<br />
00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8.<br />
A vivid yellow fi eld of seemingly<br />
jumbled letters initially lures the eye<br />
at the entrance of the <strong>Berlin</strong>ische<br />
Galerie: <strong>Berlin</strong>’s Museum of Modern<br />
Art, Photography, and Architecture.<br />
Inside the gallery almost overfl ows<br />
with themes including the<br />
secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New<br />
Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group,<br />
Russians in <strong>Berlin</strong> and the avante<br />
garde.<br />
Originally a private institution<br />
situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau,<br />
the gallery relocated to its new<br />
location in 2004, designed by Huhn<br />
Malvessi, and has fl ourished into<br />
an excellent national gallery with<br />
an international reputation. The<br />
industrial hall holds many temporary<br />
exhibitions to accompany its<br />
permanent one, as well as lectures,<br />
archives, a library, movies and music.<br />
First Monday of the month has the<br />
cheapest entry at only €2. There is<br />
also reduced admission with a ticket<br />
from the Jewish Museum on the day<br />
of visit and the next two days.<br />
Anhalter Bahnhof<br />
Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn:<br />
Anhalter Bahnhof.<br />
For a fragmentary glimpse of one<br />
of the greatest structural triumphs<br />
of <strong>Berlin</strong>, Anhalter Bahnhof is an<br />
essential place to pay a visit. Today<br />
you are faced only with its imposing<br />
façade on Askanischer Platz. Yet it is<br />
the station’s strong visual presence<br />
and its history that should inspire<br />
you to visit.<br />
Alongside the architectural and<br />
technological grandeur of the<br />
station, lies the horrifi c role that it<br />
played in holocaust history. In total,<br />
the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation<br />
convoys, usually consisting of 50 or<br />
100 people at a time. Nearly 10,000<br />
victims were deported by means<br />
of this station to await their fate.<br />
Bombing in the Second World War<br />
partially ruined the Bahnhof. After<br />
falling into decay and disrepair,<br />
it was sadly demolished in 1961,<br />
leaving only its present remnants.<br />
First built in 1839, in the relatively<br />
early days of locomotives, the train<br />
station was modest in size and<br />
appearance. The 19th century, the<br />
age of mass industry, cried for a<br />
greater demand for passenger and<br />
freight trains. These demands were<br />
before long answered and in 1875<br />
the architect Franz Schwechten<br />
(who also designed Kaiser William<br />
Memorial Church) received the task<br />
of enlarging the station. Considered<br />
a masterpiece of railroad station<br />
construction in its day, Anhalter<br />
101 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 102
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the<br />
South” for <strong>Berlin</strong>ers.<br />
Jüdisches Museum<br />
(Jewish Museum)<br />
www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 –<br />
14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Tel: +49<br />
3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm,<br />
Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission:<br />
€2.50-€5.<br />
Since its inauguration in 2001, the<br />
Jüdisches Museum has attracted over<br />
350,000 visitors. Thousands came<br />
even before the museum was fully<br />
open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold<br />
and innovative architecture. The<br />
museum’s alien appearance demands<br />
attention, and it is worthwhile to<br />
take a moment before entering to<br />
stop and appreciate this.<br />
The museum’s exterior, an angular<br />
external structure, resembles a<br />
thundering lightning bolt, possibly<br />
representing a deconstructed Star<br />
of David. Its modern metallic facing<br />
is at odds with the baroque facade<br />
of the Kollegienhaus, once an<br />
administrative building to the Court<br />
of Justice in the 18th Century. This<br />
now serves as the entrance to the<br />
Jewish Museum, and connects to the<br />
Libeskind building via a black slate<br />
staircase which leads you to the<br />
main exhibition space.<br />
Upon descending the stairs, you are<br />
presented with a path system of<br />
connecting axes, symbolising three<br />
realities in the history of German<br />
Jews. The Axis of Emigration details<br />
the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s,<br />
eventually leading outside to the<br />
Garden of Exile. The slanting fl oors<br />
and narrowing walls channel the<br />
visitor along the corridor, until you<br />
open the heavy iron door to step<br />
outside into the disorientating and<br />
confusing maze of concrete pillars.<br />
In comparison, The Axis of the<br />
Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits<br />
personal items of Holocaust victims,<br />
such as letters and photographs, and<br />
terminates at the end of the passage<br />
with the commemorative Holocaust<br />
Tower. The Axis of Continuity<br />
connects the Old Building with the<br />
main staircase, which leads up to<br />
the vast permanent exhibition on<br />
the second fl oor.<br />
Be sure to stop half-way up the main<br />
staircase and explore Kadishman’s<br />
abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen<br />
Leaves), dedicated to victims of<br />
war and violence. The cavernous<br />
hall is fi lled with 10,000 iron faces,<br />
a look of open-mouth terror hacked<br />
into each one. Strewn across the<br />
fl oor, the faces clank together as<br />
people walk though the room,<br />
shattering the silence.<br />
At the top of the staircase<br />
the permanent exhibition<br />
begins, showcasing 2000<br />
years of Jewish history and<br />
culture in Germany. Whilst<br />
their struggle for integration<br />
is well-documented, it is their<br />
achievements that are the focus<br />
of the exhibition. The museum<br />
uses artwork, photographs,<br />
letters and biographies of<br />
both ordinary Jewish people<br />
and prominent historical<br />
fi gures, to fully illustrate the<br />
impact Jewish people had on<br />
society. The central theme of<br />
the museum is the enormous<br />
contribution the Jewish<br />
population makes to Western<br />
culture, and they are presented<br />
as a race alive with intellect,<br />
creativity, perseverance and<br />
strength of faith.<br />
The Jüdisches Museum is<br />
an example of an architect<br />
wanting visitors to approach<br />
the museum with willingness<br />
to engage with his work and<br />
create an emotional link<br />
between people and exhibits.<br />
The museum is completely out<br />
of the ordinary, and an utterly<br />
103 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 104
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Alternative Living<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s alternative scene is vast<br />
and runs deep within the city’s<br />
districts. From the peculiar cabaret<br />
to the scene of punks that frequently<br />
doze on the lawn at Warshauer<br />
Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and<br />
growing culture here. For many the<br />
attraction of the underground scene<br />
is its secretive and elusive nature.<br />
The remarkable old squats along the<br />
river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer<br />
to remain tourist free – utmost<br />
respect must be practiced at all<br />
times if a visit is made, after all it<br />
is somebody’s home - and those who<br />
are in the know, often like to keep<br />
it top secret. This helps to maintain<br />
the immensely mysterious air to the<br />
scene.<br />
The glowing history of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s squat<br />
scene and the acquisition of such<br />
buildings often follow a similar<br />
story. The fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall saw<br />
a swarm of people move from east<br />
to west which left many buildings in<br />
the east uninhabited. These began<br />
to be snapped up either by artists<br />
who desired such spaces for their<br />
work, or by those who disliked the<br />
capitalist culture of the west. Thus<br />
the squatting culture in East <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
was born. The artistic and political<br />
aspects still remain and may be seen<br />
in the large-scale graffi ti art or the<br />
anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on<br />
fl ags and buildings.<br />
Although Kreuzberg now resembles<br />
the - graffi ti-covered - cloak of<br />
eastern districts, it was actually<br />
located in West <strong>Berlin</strong>. Being<br />
surrounded by the wall on three<br />
sides and a stone’s throw from East<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>, it was deemed an undesirable<br />
location to live, although very<br />
cheap. The low costs attracted a<br />
population of students, immigrants<br />
and artists, subsequently turning<br />
Kreuzberg into an important<br />
hub of multicultural, artistic<br />
and intellectual development.<br />
After the fall of the wall the<br />
migration of artists to eastern<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> allowed Kreuzberg to<br />
fl ourish into the vivacious<br />
district that it is now known to<br />
be.<br />
Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and<br />
often rather quirky, nightlife<br />
means that getting lost is often<br />
an exciting venture and can<br />
be rewarded by a great fi nd.<br />
Despite this, orientating oneself<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong> can also be quite a<br />
struggle at times and although<br />
the prospect of traipsing the<br />
tourist sites of the city with<br />
a large group isn’t everyone’s<br />
cup of tea, tours are a great<br />
way to become familiar with<br />
certain areas. An Alternative<br />
Tour is a great introduction to<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s underground scene as<br />
it offers an historical overview<br />
of the numerous squats and<br />
street graffi ti art. There are a<br />
few companies that run them<br />
on a daily basis (Alternative<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> and New <strong>Berlin</strong>).<br />
Many squats are now categorised<br />
as housing projects as they<br />
have contractual agreements<br />
105 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 106
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
and pay (a very minimal) rent.<br />
They run local community projects<br />
offering, among other things: Kino -<br />
cinema screenings; Voku - low priced<br />
food; and a range of workshops to<br />
disadvantaged people in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
There are art galleries and poetry<br />
readings in others.<br />
The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is<br />
a great place to get a feel for the<br />
community-minded mentality that<br />
runs through<br />
much of the<br />
u n d e r g r o u n d<br />
scene in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
There are around<br />
60 different<br />
projects running<br />
there ranging<br />
from night<br />
clubs to circus<br />
schools. A huge<br />
and impressive skate park has been<br />
built and acts as a centre piece for<br />
the old squat. Residents allow the<br />
public an opportunity to wander<br />
through, grab a coffee, take pictures<br />
of the graffi ti and truly participate in<br />
the projects they run or the parties<br />
they throw.<br />
So take a stroll or get a bike and<br />
explore the streets of Kreuzberg and<br />
Friedrichshain to see what you can<br />
fi nd.<br />
The Alternative Tour<br />
www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel:<br />
+49 1 628 198 264. Meets every<br />
day at 11am and 1pm, outside<br />
Starbucks, under the TV tower at<br />
Alexanderplatz.<br />
The Alternative Tour was a great<br />
way to see a whole different<br />
side to <strong>Berlin</strong>. The fi rst thing<br />
to remember is the difference<br />
between tagging and art, although<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> has a lot of both. The laws<br />
here don’t require building owners<br />
to remove graffi ti, and as it is<br />
such an expensive process, many<br />
just don’t bother. Because of<br />
this, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s street art is forever<br />
changing.<br />
An informative guide takes you<br />
all around the city, through some<br />
of Mitte’s back streets, past the<br />
Raw Temple in Friedrichshain,<br />
and especially around Kreuzberg.<br />
Some artists are well-known, such<br />
as El Bacho; and characters such<br />
as Little Lucy. After the tour you<br />
will see a whole new <strong>Berlin</strong>, and<br />
constantly be on the lookout for<br />
particular artists.<br />
107 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 108
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Deutsches Technikmuseum<br />
www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Strasse 9.<br />
U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke. Telephone:<br />
+49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am-<br />
5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed<br />
Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50.<br />
The German Technical Museum<br />
offers a cultural history of<br />
Germany’s industrial technology.<br />
Don’t be fooled by the title because<br />
this museum offers interest in many<br />
different areas extending from<br />
The Deutsches Technikmuseum.<br />
railways to fi lmography.<br />
Formally one of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s industrial<br />
sites dating back to 1874, which is<br />
easily noticeable in the buildings<br />
architecture, it has become one of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s most appealing museums.<br />
The layout comprises of eight<br />
different sections, each is astounding<br />
and unpredictable. From walking<br />
through the textile and papermaking<br />
machinery visitors come<br />
face to face with life-size ships and<br />
planes, some planes dating as far<br />
back as 1918. From there you go on<br />
to the rail sheds, with some of the<br />
fi rst trains on show.<br />
The next building leads you through<br />
to photo technology, the science<br />
centre and the Vintage Car Depot.<br />
This is a massive insight into how<br />
benefi cial the industrial revolution<br />
was to Germany and there are plenty<br />
of hands-on activities to take part<br />
in. Why not climb aboard the ships<br />
or step under giant locomotives,<br />
watch an old fashioned picture fi lm<br />
or discover the art of brewing? And<br />
to fi nish the tour off visitors can<br />
walk outside into the Museum Park<br />
where there are windmills and the<br />
water tower.<br />
There’s something for everyone and,<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong> museum style, there are<br />
many visitor activities and guided<br />
tours making the visit that much<br />
more impressive and extraordinary.<br />
Schwules Museum<br />
w w w. s c h w u l e s m u s e u m . d e .<br />
Mehringdamm 61. U-Bahn:<br />
Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172.<br />
Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs.<br />
Admission €5, concessions €3.<br />
The only museum in the world<br />
dedicated to the homosexual<br />
lifestyle, this little museum plays<br />
a big part in chronicling nearly<br />
two centuries of Gay history and<br />
social change. The museum houses<br />
a remarkable collection of photos,<br />
paintings and other assorted art<br />
work about Gay life in Germany.<br />
Tracing the gradual acceptance<br />
of the homosexual existence with<br />
its many trials and tribulations in<br />
Europe, there is a big focus on <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
during the World Wars. The ground<br />
fl oor allows for temporary exhibits,<br />
presenting the work of famous Gay<br />
Germans such as Herbert List and<br />
other local Gay artists.<br />
Comprehensive and informative<br />
guides are available in many<br />
languages to assist in your visit and<br />
the volunteer staff are both helpful<br />
and friendly.<br />
109 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 110
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Exploring an Urban<br />
Sculpture Garden<br />
U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>, famously described as ‘poor<br />
but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public<br />
art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’<br />
sculpture to the provocative work of<br />
street artists such as<br />
Alias and El Bocho,<br />
art is impossible to<br />
avoid in this city.<br />
Visitors are sure to<br />
encounter plenty of<br />
impressive work even<br />
if they never set foot<br />
in a museum.<br />
One of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most<br />
compelling examples<br />
of public art is the<br />
Menschenlandschaft,<br />
a diverse collection<br />
of sculpture that<br />
sprawls from a<br />
leafy pocket park<br />
near Schlesisches<br />
Tor station toward the River Spree.<br />
Don’t expect to fi nd much respite<br />
here from the grit and gristle of<br />
Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden<br />
is unabashedly urban. In fact, to<br />
walk the length of this ‘human<br />
landscape,’ which features work by<br />
seven different sculptors, visitors<br />
must cross two busy streets and pass<br />
under the U-Bahn tracks.<br />
The experience of visiting the<br />
Menschenlandschaft is punctuated<br />
by urban noise – trains thundering<br />
above and traffi c roaring nearby.<br />
But instead of being an unwelcome<br />
distraction, this setting actually<br />
enhances the meaning<br />
of the work. The<br />
sculpture garden<br />
was commissioned<br />
to address the<br />
immigrant experience<br />
in Kreuzberg, a<br />
neighbourhood which<br />
has absorbed an<br />
enormous immigrant<br />
population, while<br />
more recently<br />
struggling with the<br />
growing pains of<br />
gentrifi cation. The<br />
placement of these<br />
art pieces, in the<br />
‘leftover’ space<br />
surrounding a major transit hub,<br />
encourages the viewer to consider<br />
the extent to which immigrants are<br />
integrated into – or isolated from –<br />
the social and economic fabric of the<br />
city.<br />
Walking east along Schlesisches<br />
Strasse, look for two voluptuous<br />
bronze nudes reclining in<br />
the traffi c median. Follow<br />
the concrete footpath<br />
across the street toward<br />
the garden’s centrepiece,<br />
Turkish sculptor Mehmet<br />
Aksoy’s 1987 work<br />
A r b e i t s m i g r a t i o n .<br />
Emerging from the grass<br />
like alabaster totems,<br />
Aksoy’s sculpture conveys<br />
stylized and sometimes<br />
disturbing human forms:<br />
dislocated body parts,<br />
isolated fi gures, and<br />
huddled masses striving to<br />
‘escape’ from the marble.<br />
Continuing across the<br />
street toward the river,<br />
look for several more<br />
works of sculpture<br />
scattered throughout<br />
the park. Perhaps the<br />
most distinctive is Rudolf<br />
Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a<br />
stainless steel structure<br />
which resembles an<br />
enormous bent paper clip.<br />
At the end of this sculpture<br />
safari on the south bank of<br />
the Spree, sightseers are<br />
rewarded with a perfect<br />
view of the magnifi cent<br />
Oberbaumbrücke.<br />
111 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 112
Shopping Shopping<br />
NGBK<br />
www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25.<br />
U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel:<br />
+49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm,<br />
Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm.<br />
Wander the streets of Kreuzberg<br />
and you are likely to stumble across<br />
many individual art exhibits and<br />
bookstores; visit NGBK and you will<br />
experience a unique combination<br />
of both. The NGBK bookstore is<br />
well-stocked in a number of genres,<br />
particularly the Arts, with many<br />
titles available in English. <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
receives special attention with a<br />
vast selection of books covering all<br />
aspects of the city.<br />
The relaxed and open atmosphere<br />
encourages those browsing to pick<br />
a stool and read at leisure. To the<br />
rear of the store, free entry to the<br />
adjacent NGBK exhibition space<br />
awaits. Here, through the medium<br />
of visual art, questions and issues of<br />
social importance are depicted and<br />
explored. Exhibits change throughout<br />
the year and are often supplemented<br />
by discussions, lectures and other<br />
events.<br />
Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010<br />
include: Shared. Divided. United,<br />
which aims to draw comparison<br />
between the divisive experiences of<br />
Germany and Korea; and Amerikana,<br />
documenting the mythology of US<br />
society and the response of US artists<br />
to such myths.<br />
The NGBK bookstore alone warrants<br />
a visit, but time things correctly<br />
and you may be fortunate enough to<br />
inject some art into your shopping<br />
trip.<br />
Box Off <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
w w w. b o x o f f b e r l i n . d e .<br />
Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn:<br />
Kochstraβe. Tel: +49 (0) 30 44<br />
70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am.<br />
Sidle away from the tacky<br />
tourist shops surrounding<br />
Checkpoint Charlie and<br />
discover a refreshingly<br />
different approach to souvenir<br />
shopping. Box Off <strong>Berlin</strong> offers<br />
a variety of quality souvenirs<br />
created by local designers.<br />
Think more cutting-edge<br />
design, less souvenir shot glass.<br />
Treat yourself to a fashionable<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> print, a unique tote or<br />
a glossy hardback on <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
street art.<br />
Fair trade and<br />
environmentalism are key<br />
concepts, so enjoy a fair trade<br />
coffee from the coffee bar as<br />
you browse the store and its<br />
compact contemporary art<br />
gallery.<br />
Prices and products are wide<br />
ranging and generally refl ect<br />
the high quality and design of<br />
each item. For those on a tight<br />
budget, key rings and pens are<br />
reasonably priced at under €5.<br />
Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff<br />
113 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 114
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Modern Graphics<br />
w w w. m o d e r n - g r a p h i c s . d e .<br />
Oranienstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer<br />
Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49<br />
6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat<br />
10am-7pm.<br />
This shop is a haven for any fan of<br />
graphic novels, comics or other cult<br />
merchandise. It contains a huge<br />
selection of each with a more than<br />
reasonably-sized section dedicated<br />
to novels in the English language.<br />
The staff are helpful, knowledgeable<br />
and, most importantly, incredibly<br />
enthusiastic about the material they<br />
sell.<br />
Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap<br />
Mehringdamm 32.<br />
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.<br />
Having a several-metre long queue<br />
may be normal for a kebab shop at<br />
four in the morning on a week night,<br />
in an area located next to a street<br />
full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but<br />
when there’s a queue that big the<br />
whole day long...one wonders what<br />
must be so special about the food<br />
that’s being served.<br />
Staying in the constantly long line at<br />
Mustafa’s is certainly worth the wait<br />
as it serves very<br />
possibly the best<br />
kebabs in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
The choice at<br />
Mustafa’s is very<br />
simple: a kebab;<br />
dürüm kebab<br />
(in a wrap); a<br />
vegetarian or<br />
a vegetarian<br />
dürüm. All of the<br />
choices include<br />
deep-fried vegetables, an amazing<br />
selection of salad and best of all<br />
crumbled cheese to top it off. The<br />
meat kebabs include sliced chicken<br />
döner from the large rotating spit.<br />
What is perhaps so surprising about<br />
Mustafa’s is that it’s little more<br />
than a fi xed hut on the pavement,<br />
which can hardly fi t the two men<br />
who serve up the food all day long.<br />
There is no seating and only a large<br />
wooden table to the side where you<br />
can stand and eat. This minimalism<br />
is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm.<br />
To top off the effect, Middle Eastern<br />
music blares from the hut all day, so<br />
you really feel like you’re getting a<br />
full Eastern experience.<br />
Hakata sushi restaurant<br />
Oranienstrasse. U-Bahn: Görlitzer<br />
bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor. Closed<br />
Mondays. Price: €0-5.<br />
This sushi restaurant truly is a must<br />
for any fan of Japanese cuisine.<br />
It may not visually stand out in<br />
comparison with the various other<br />
more colourful sushi restaurants in<br />
the neighbourhood (and there are<br />
several), but what it lacks in visual<br />
splendour it more than makes up<br />
for in superb taste. Herein lies this<br />
establishment’s crowning glory.<br />
The orders are taken on notes<br />
you write yourself and are served<br />
without dialogue. Indeed, you may<br />
fi nd that Japanese can prove to<br />
be more effective than German if<br />
you are blessed with such language<br />
skills. The food orders will also take<br />
a longtime to fi nally emerge at your<br />
table, which can be almost torturous<br />
as you watch it being meticulously<br />
made only a few feet away. Fear<br />
not, however, for this is small price<br />
to pay – along with the pleasingly<br />
small bill - for truly authentic and<br />
delicious sushi in Kreuzberg.<br />
There is a wide range of dishes on<br />
offer along with a satisfying number<br />
of vegetarian options included in the<br />
fray.<br />
Belegschaft<br />
w w w . d i e b e l e g s c h a f t . d e .<br />
Zimmerstraβe 23. U-Bahn:<br />
Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254<br />
Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am-<br />
7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3-<br />
8.<br />
Amongst the hustle and bustle<br />
surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies<br />
a calm oasis in Belegschaft.<br />
This “organic quick food” café<br />
features a range of soups,<br />
sandwiches and daily specials at<br />
reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal<br />
in the café’s fresh, modern interior<br />
or while people watching outside.<br />
Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.<br />
115 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 116
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Curry 36<br />
www.curry36.de Mehringdamm 36.<br />
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 302<br />
51 73 68. Mon-<br />
Sun 9am-5am.<br />
€0-5.<br />
A big fat German<br />
sausage with<br />
curry sprinkled<br />
all over, and<br />
ketchup on<br />
top. One bite<br />
and your mouth<br />
will sizzle with<br />
the contrasting<br />
f l a v o u r s .<br />
Another bite and<br />
you’re hooked<br />
on Currywurst.<br />
The lines move<br />
fast as sausages,<br />
fries and drinks<br />
are dished out<br />
with German<br />
effi ciency.<br />
A delicacy that other places<br />
have tried to re-invent, Curry<br />
36 is a family-owned business<br />
that began as a food cart<br />
and expanded over 30 years<br />
into a popular place to go for<br />
Currywurst. The food is fresh,<br />
the ketchup is homemade, and<br />
if you can’t get enough of a fi x you<br />
can even buy the sausages to take<br />
home vacuum-packed.<br />
You don’t have to ask the customers<br />
twice if they enjoy it,<br />
standing shoulder to<br />
shoulder around tables<br />
some wolf their sausages<br />
down, while others<br />
seems to let the taste<br />
linger before forking<br />
the next piece. Two<br />
Currywurst with fries<br />
will set you back €4.30<br />
or 2 Currywurst with a<br />
bread roll costs €3.20.<br />
A boulette (a German<br />
specialty of herbed<br />
mince meat, but nicer<br />
than a hamburger) with<br />
curry costs €1.50.<br />
Rundum Mehrzweckcafe<br />
www.cafe-rundum.de. Stresemanstr<br />
37.U-Bahn: Mockernbruke or<br />
Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter<br />
Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30<br />
53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat-<br />
Sun 10am-8pm.<br />
Hidden amongst towering concrete<br />
desolate buildings on this<br />
quiet street in Kreuzberg,<br />
Rundum Mehrzweckercafe<br />
is a contemporary,<br />
minimalistic yet charming<br />
café serving generously<br />
sized meals that<br />
burst with fl avour and<br />
freshness.<br />
Highly recommended<br />
are the daily specials,<br />
which are generously<br />
portioned for the price,<br />
with freshly made pasta<br />
with parmesan, walnuts and basil<br />
pesto (fantastic for vegetarians),<br />
succulent pork and mixed greens or<br />
a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup<br />
as just a few tasty examples.<br />
There is also a good selection of<br />
baguette fi llings and with prices<br />
starting from €3.90 you will be<br />
spoilt for choice. The homemade<br />
desserts are worth a try, especially<br />
the blueberry muffi n, which will<br />
guarantee you<br />
another trip<br />
back for more!<br />
On a nice summer<br />
day you can bask<br />
in the sun in the<br />
outdoor area<br />
or alternatively<br />
enjoy your meal<br />
Mountains of pasta at Rundum.<br />
indoors whilst observing strange<br />
abstract canvases of nature and<br />
subtle nudity. Service is friendly and<br />
the staff helpful, so whether you<br />
want to enquire about a dish or to<br />
get directions to the nearest station<br />
they are more than happy to help!<br />
As Rundum say themselves this really<br />
is the place to “eat, drink, chat,<br />
relax and enjoy.”<br />
117 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 118
Food & Drink Nightlife<br />
Max und Moritz<br />
www.maxundmoritzberlin.de.<br />
Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069<br />
515 911. Open daily from 6pm.<br />
Price: €10-15.<br />
A welcome break from the<br />
predominantly Turkish food found in<br />
this part of the city, Max und Moritz<br />
provides traditional German cuisine.<br />
It is famous for cooking up <strong>Berlin</strong>er<br />
dishes in an authentic and relaxing<br />
setting.<br />
There is an impressive range of<br />
these satisfying and hearty dishes.<br />
From the traditional, time-honoured<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>er Eisbein, a pickled pig foot<br />
with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to<br />
Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced<br />
beef stew served<br />
with salad<br />
and dumpling<br />
noodles. The<br />
menu certainly<br />
leans more<br />
towards the<br />
carnivorous in<br />
nature however<br />
there are also a<br />
few vegetarian<br />
dishes on offer.<br />
Whatever your<br />
taste, you will<br />
fi nd something<br />
to your liking here. Its generous<br />
portions, welcoming atmosphere<br />
and wonderful food make this <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
institution a must. The prices may<br />
be a little high for the more budgetconscious<br />
traveller with the more<br />
expensive dishes running up to €14.<br />
However there are less expensive<br />
meals of offer from around €8.50<br />
and the setting and atmosphere is<br />
worth the little extra.<br />
The restaurant can get quite busy at<br />
times, a testament to the quality of<br />
the food, so phone ahead to reserve<br />
a table or go earlier in the evening<br />
to avoid disappointment or a lengthy<br />
wait.<br />
Badeschiff<br />
www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn:<br />
Treptower Park. Bus 265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open from 8am. Admission<br />
€3. Drinks: €3-10.<br />
Badeschiff is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in the<br />
sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days.<br />
Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river<br />
venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the<br />
river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim<br />
and horse-around in a fl oating pool docked on the river.<br />
Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment<br />
takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of<br />
various description for when the beers have given you some tipsy munchies.<br />
Badeschiff is a must for any summer <strong>Berlin</strong> trip. Even if you’re just around for a<br />
long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and<br />
before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when <strong>Berlin</strong>ers<br />
take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however,<br />
spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fi ll up fast so either get there<br />
early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment.<br />
119 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 120
Nightlife Nightlife<br />
Kiki Blofeld<br />
www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker<br />
Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine.<br />
S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737<br />
828 286.<br />
Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of<br />
Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian catstroking<br />
evil villain and arch-nemesis<br />
of James Bond,<br />
is the patron of<br />
the garden club<br />
named in her<br />
honour. So the<br />
story goes of this<br />
bank-side bar and<br />
nightclub located<br />
on the Spree<br />
River.<br />
Covered in sand<br />
and with plenty<br />
of places to hang<br />
out, this Kikis<br />
really is big, with<br />
enough space to<br />
fi t a lot of minibeach<br />
parties. Scattered across the<br />
outside area are pool- and ping-pong<br />
tables as well as an area for making<br />
bonfi res. Next to the upstairs bar is<br />
a raised lounging area complete with<br />
beach chairs.<br />
The best part about this place is<br />
the downstairs dance fl oor, the<br />
“boathouse” as it is known, which<br />
consists of a platform raised above<br />
the river on stilts. The story of this<br />
underground den is quite fascinating<br />
- it was where the East German police<br />
docked their boats when travelling<br />
across the river to the West. The<br />
platform is a U-shape and the boats<br />
would drive into the middle to dock.<br />
Instead of GDR<br />
police boats, these<br />
days a fl oating<br />
infl atable octopus<br />
decorates the<br />
water.<br />
Downstairs has a<br />
fully stocked bar<br />
as well, serving<br />
beers for around<br />
€3. The music is<br />
techno/house, and<br />
in true <strong>Berlin</strong> style<br />
the club stays open<br />
into the next day<br />
on weekends.<br />
The clientele of<br />
Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists<br />
know of it and it isn’t included<br />
in many guide books. The vibe is<br />
certainly that of the well-kept secret<br />
- a hidden paradise complete with an<br />
underground lair with sinister past -<br />
Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly<br />
approve.<br />
SchwuZ<br />
www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61.<br />
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49<br />
30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7<br />
entry, €5 before midnight.<br />
Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and<br />
dance the night away at SchwuZ.<br />
This club is a one-stop nightlife<br />
hotspot which<br />
welcomes all,<br />
located within<br />
the Schwulen<br />
Zentrum (Gay<br />
Centre) in<br />
Kreuzberg. Enter<br />
via Café Melitta<br />
Sundstrom, the<br />
destination to<br />
chill out with<br />
pre-drinks and<br />
chat in-between<br />
throwing shapes<br />
on the dance<br />
fl oor.<br />
With three DJ rooms this venue<br />
provides clubbers with choice and<br />
change without having to venture<br />
beyond its very own walls. The<br />
variety extends to an eclectic range<br />
of themed dance parties hosted<br />
throughout the month, ranging<br />
from punk to pop, and embracing<br />
everything in-between.<br />
Parties rotate so that they become<br />
monthly events for the clubbing<br />
calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a<br />
night for the ladies; Madonnamania,<br />
where the name says it all; and listen<br />
to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe<br />
at Bump! Check their website for<br />
more events set to make your body<br />
rock.<br />
A good<br />
night out is<br />
P o p k i c k e r,<br />
where a mix<br />
of pop and<br />
sport – fussball<br />
and pingpong<br />
especially –<br />
are thrown<br />
in for good<br />
measure. The<br />
crowd spices<br />
up their<br />
trendy dress<br />
code with a<br />
sports theme<br />
including football shirts and vest<br />
tops. The music in the main DJ room<br />
has a familiar feel with the beats of<br />
commercial and global pop vibrating<br />
their rhythms through your body and<br />
soul.<br />
Make a calendar date and mix it up at<br />
SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed.<br />
Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.<br />
121 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 122
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
BaxPax Kreuzberg<br />
w w w. b a x p a x - k r e u z b e r g . d e .<br />
Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn:<br />
Gölitzer Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3 069 518<br />
322.<br />
Prices:<br />
Dorm Rooms: €12.<br />
Double Room with ensuite: €25<br />
If you like places with character<br />
then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax<br />
Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere<br />
with a bar/cafe area close to<br />
reception along with lots of tourist<br />
information and advice including<br />
previous guests views, suggestions<br />
and advice on the ‘word of mouth’<br />
board.<br />
The whole hostel is very colourful<br />
and all the dorms are large, fullyfurnished<br />
and are decorated with<br />
Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg.<br />
a different culture theme giving<br />
that added sense of a lively fun<br />
atmosphere. There are two huge<br />
common areas, shared/private<br />
bathrooms and kitchen facilities<br />
with a sun terrace.<br />
The hostel is located on the main<br />
street Skalitzer Strasse, where there<br />
are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and<br />
restaurants to suit all tastes. It is<br />
also close to Warschauer Strasse,<br />
Oranienburger Strasse and many<br />
monuments such as the Jüdisches<br />
Museum and Checkpoint Charlie.<br />
· Lockers and safe available<br />
· Internet access<br />
· Breakfast buffet for €5.20<br />
· Bike hire<br />
3 Little Pigs Hostel<br />
w w w. t h r e e - l i t t l e - p i g s . d e .<br />
Stresemannstrasse 66. S-Bahn:<br />
Anhalter Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3032 662<br />
955. 24-hour reception.<br />
Dorms: (low/high season prices)<br />
8 bed: €13/15<br />
6 bed: €14/16<br />
Private double room: €31/32<br />
Everyone knows the story of the<br />
Three Little Pigs – how the brick<br />
house protected them from the big<br />
bad wolf. This hostel, also made<br />
of brick, acts as a sanctuary for<br />
travellers everywhere.<br />
The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic<br />
art deco building, built in 1910, with<br />
lots of old-fashioned features set<br />
in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s most popular social districts.<br />
The hostel is clean, bright, colourful<br />
and tidy throughout and is in great<br />
condition for the age of the building.<br />
There are many communal areas<br />
throughout as well as the bar and<br />
beer garden. There is a relaxing,<br />
quiet atmosphere and yet it is<br />
close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist<br />
attractions and nightlife.<br />
This hostel has all the essentials<br />
for students and backpackers, from<br />
free guided city tours to the pool<br />
table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer.<br />
The location is walking distance<br />
to some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s major tourist<br />
sights, such as Brandenburger Tor<br />
and Checkpoint Charlie, as well<br />
as cafes, bars, restaurants and the<br />
local supermarket.<br />
The friendly staff are enthusiastic<br />
to help out with any questions or<br />
queries you have on what to do (and<br />
not to do) in <strong>Berlin</strong> plus heaps of<br />
tourist leafl ets, maps, and popular<br />
places on hand at reception.<br />
· Bed linen: €2.50 obligatory<br />
· Internet access<br />
· Kitchen<br />
· Parking<br />
· Bike rental, €12 per day<br />
· Breakfast, €5 all you can eat<br />
Meininger Hostel <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Hallesches Ufer<br />
w w w. m e i n i n g e r- h o s t e l s . c o m .<br />
Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn:<br />
123 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 124
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke.<br />
Tel: +49 3 066 636 100.<br />
Prices:<br />
Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€<br />
Multi-bed room (triple,<br />
twin, single) from 26€<br />
to 60€.<br />
This newly refurbished<br />
hostel is perfect for<br />
students who love<br />
to party! Meininger<br />
Hostels have two<br />
hostels in <strong>Berlin</strong> plus<br />
more around Germany<br />
and London. One good<br />
thing about chain<br />
hostels is they tend<br />
to meet a certain<br />
living standard and<br />
this particular hostel<br />
certainly meets that.<br />
The hostel has recently been<br />
refurbished complete with clothes<br />
storage space, TV, bathroom, linen<br />
and towels. There are more than 300<br />
beds and all rooms are cleaned daily.<br />
Female only rooms are available for<br />
the same charge as a standard room.<br />
Located on the ground fl oor is the<br />
newly refurbished bar complete with<br />
pool table, comfy couches, TV and<br />
daily discount bar offers. Although<br />
downstairs is the party area it is<br />
separated from upstairs, which has<br />
a more chilled atmosphere. Located<br />
on the top fl oor is a large breakfast<br />
room and outside balcony terrace<br />
area where you can see a fantastic<br />
view of the Kreuzberg area.<br />
The hostel is close to cafes and<br />
restaurants and for those on a budget<br />
€4 Pizza, located round the corner of<br />
the hostel, is highly recommended.<br />
What’s more the hostel offers free<br />
walking tours and is close to the Sony<br />
Centre, Deutches Technik Museum<br />
and Topography of Terrors.<br />
• Laundry €5<br />
• Luggage Storage<br />
• Internet and free WIFI<br />
• Breakfast Buffet €4<br />
Riverside Lodge<br />
w w w . r i v e r s i d e - l o d g e . d e .<br />
Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn:<br />
Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515<br />
510.<br />
Prices:<br />
Dorm rooms €21.<br />
Double rooms €26.<br />
This little charming hostel is perfect<br />
for those who want a place to chill<br />
from the busy atmosphere. Travellers<br />
are close to the action and can get<br />
a good night’s sleep. The hostel,<br />
although small, is modern, bright and<br />
tidy with plenty of space, even with<br />
the giant economy-sized lockers and<br />
the funky canoe in the large dorm.<br />
This hostel consists of one four-bed<br />
dorm, one six-bed dorm and one<br />
double room in the hostel plus three<br />
double rooms next door, which are<br />
apartment style fl ats.<br />
The hostel has all the basics with a<br />
kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near<br />
to cafes, restaurants, shops and the<br />
huge Turkish market on Maybachufer<br />
Straβe every Tuesday and Friday.<br />
The markets are defi nitely worth a<br />
visit and there are so many different<br />
stalls from traditional Turkish meals<br />
and sweets to clothes and jewellery.<br />
Located in one of the Turkish<br />
communities in <strong>Berlin</strong>, this hostel is<br />
in a perfect place for those wanting<br />
to stay elsewhere from the city<br />
centre and enjoy the cultural <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
Turkish atmosphere.<br />
· Internet €2 for the day<br />
· Breakfast for € 4.00.<br />
· Complimentary tea and coffee<br />
are available at all times.<br />
125 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 126
Charlottenburg Information<br />
During the glory days of the GDR,<br />
Charlottenburg was a pocket of West<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> where culture fl ourished.<br />
Surrounded by the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall, the<br />
area was a protected sanctuary<br />
with exceptional nightlife, cafés,<br />
cinemas and a strong community of<br />
artists, actors, and writers.<br />
After the fall of the wall, these<br />
creative communities moved East<br />
to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and<br />
Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg<br />
lost its edge. Now this area<br />
maintains its former glamour with<br />
Kufürstendamm, locally known as<br />
Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of<br />
the East, lined with ritzy department<br />
stores and boutiques for the wealthy<br />
to splash out whilst on holiday in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>. Charlottenburg is ideal for<br />
those looking for a bit of quiet in the<br />
constant hustle and bustle of a city<br />
that never seems to sleep.<br />
Charlottenburg’s main attraction is<br />
Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque<br />
palace located 3km north of Zoo<br />
Station. The palace was modelled<br />
after Versailles and its former<br />
residents include King Friedrich I,<br />
and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens<br />
are perfect for wandering on a sunny<br />
day.<br />
Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche<br />
is another worthwhile site to check<br />
out in Charlottenburg. Heavily<br />
bombed during World War II, the<br />
church was left as it was and is now<br />
an antiwar memorial and a constant<br />
reminder of the destruction of the<br />
war. The church was constructed in<br />
1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now<br />
tourists can visit the church and view<br />
a collection of photographs and an<br />
explanation of the church’s history.<br />
Many museums are also located in<br />
Charlottenburg, such as the Museum<br />
für Fotografi e that chronicles the life<br />
and work of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s internationally<br />
acclaimed photographer, Helmut<br />
Newton, and the Erotik Museum,<br />
for those looking for something a<br />
little different when it comes to<br />
museums.<br />
127 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg<br />
128
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Schloss Charlottenburg<br />
Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn:<br />
Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn:<br />
Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner-<br />
Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun<br />
10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14.<br />
Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has<br />
something for everyone. There is<br />
a healthy dose of history for those<br />
primarily interested in the whys and<br />
wherefores of this beautiful building,<br />
for art and architecture buffs there<br />
is a huge amount to see in this<br />
Baroque masterpiece, while there is<br />
lots of human interest if you just like<br />
a good story.<br />
Schloss Charlottenburg, originally<br />
called Lietzenburg, was fi rst<br />
c o m m i s s i o n e d<br />
in 1699 by the<br />
Electress of<br />
B r a n d e n b u r g<br />
Sophie Charlotte.<br />
After her death,<br />
the building was<br />
completed and<br />
extended under<br />
the orders of her<br />
husband, then<br />
King of Prussia,<br />
Friedrich I, and<br />
re-named in<br />
her honour. This<br />
relatively small<br />
palace in a minor town outside <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
became the summer residence and<br />
stately home of choice of many of the<br />
later Hohenzollerns, and still bears<br />
the marks of many of their lives and<br />
personalities.<br />
This historic site is of great importance<br />
for those interested in the growth<br />
of one of Europe’s greatest royal<br />
houses. There is special emphasis<br />
here on the women in this dynasty,<br />
particularly Sophie Charlotte herself<br />
and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King<br />
Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom<br />
spent much time and energy on this<br />
building.<br />
For the modern visitor, there is much<br />
to see. The site itself is in fact three<br />
separate exhibitions, each priced<br />
separately (though a Day Ticket can<br />
be bought which incorporates all<br />
three).<br />
The central exhibition here is the<br />
Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s<br />
original building and Friedrich’s<br />
extension. Downstairs, the rooms<br />
are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s<br />
day while the upper fl oor is kept<br />
(as much as possible) to how Queen<br />
Elizabeth would have known it.<br />
Many of the upstairs rooms were<br />
damaged by bombing meaning that<br />
reconstruction in their original form<br />
was largely impossible. These rooms<br />
now contain paintings and furniture<br />
giving a representation of the<br />
thoughts and morals of the time.<br />
The personalities of the two Queens<br />
are presented through these rooms in<br />
a very lively way, helped by the use<br />
of an audioguide, which is included in<br />
the entrance price. A must-see is the<br />
New Wing, which houses the State<br />
Apartments of Kings Friedrich the<br />
Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t<br />
forget to enjoy the nature - take a<br />
stroll around the beautiful gardens<br />
and lakes, or even take a picnic.<br />
129 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 130
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Museum für Fotografi e<br />
(Museum of Photography)<br />
www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn:<br />
Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266<br />
3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur<br />
10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free:<br />
Thursdays after 6pm.<br />
One of history’s most daring and<br />
notorious photographers, <strong>Berlin</strong>born<br />
Helmut Newton had a distinct<br />
risqué style; capturing the dramatic<br />
and often dangerous side of beauty.<br />
Over 1,000 works from Newton<br />
are permanently on display at<br />
the Museum of Photography. The<br />
collection of black and white photos,<br />
often focusing on nude women,<br />
explores the politically incorrect<br />
sexual nature of the human species<br />
which noticeably infl uenced society’s<br />
perspective on fashion, women and<br />
portraiture.<br />
Following Newton’s fatal car crash in<br />
October 2004, shortly after donating<br />
more than 1000 of his works to the<br />
museum, the public exhibition serves<br />
to be a mesh of both bereavement<br />
and celebration; for the art and man<br />
who was Helmut Newton.<br />
On the ground fl oor of the museum<br />
is a rare showcase called “Private<br />
Property” which delves into the<br />
life of the photographer himself. A<br />
replication of his Monte Carlo study,<br />
family photos, and a collection of<br />
letters between Newton and other<br />
prominent members of society,<br />
including Margaret Thatcher, pay<br />
homage to Newton’s work and life.<br />
The eerie collection is a perfect<br />
introduction to the Museum itself as<br />
the display reveals a prudent quality<br />
to Newton’s extensive catalogue of<br />
often misinterpreted pieces.<br />
Situated on the fi rst fl oor and probably<br />
the most highly regarded display<br />
is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”,<br />
which displays 394 black and white<br />
photographs. Originally the contents<br />
of a giant book, once limited to<br />
the coffee tables of a well-heeled<br />
few, the exhibit commemorates<br />
the 10th anniversary of the book’s<br />
publication. Amongst the collection<br />
are rare portraits of the likes of David<br />
Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner<br />
Fassbinder and Andy Warhol.<br />
Complimenting Newton’s works is an<br />
exhibition entitled “Three Boys from<br />
Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz<br />
and Just Loomis, three friends of<br />
Newton’s which he worked alongside<br />
and mentored, have 25 pieces of<br />
their collections on display. Selected<br />
by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s<br />
wife, the cinematic and raw style<br />
of the collections share similar<br />
undertones to a lot of Newton’s<br />
work.<br />
Together the collaborated display<br />
makes for an impressive journey<br />
into the eyes of one of the world’s<br />
most controversial and leading<br />
photographers. Although often<br />
quite confronting and uncensored,<br />
the photographs invite the viewer<br />
to push past the nude subjects and<br />
explore the world around the girl<br />
and the vision of Newton himself.<br />
The extensive collection tastefully<br />
captures the triumph of desire and<br />
the failure of reality rarely seen in<br />
such an audacious and mischievous<br />
manner, which is well worth a visit<br />
for those that search beyond a bare<br />
glance.<br />
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee<br />
www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.<br />
de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />
Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun<br />
9am-5pm. Price: Free.<br />
The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is<br />
a small memorial in the north of<br />
Charlottenburg, dedicated to the<br />
memory of those executed under the<br />
Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a<br />
prison, fi rst built in 1868 to house<br />
convicts with short-term sentences.<br />
It was also where some of the most<br />
famous opponents of Nazi Germany,<br />
including Klaus von Stauffenberg,<br />
were imprisoned and executed. For<br />
fans of the fi lm Valkyrie this site,<br />
which was not allowed to be used<br />
as a location due to the controversy<br />
surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion,<br />
may be of special interest.<br />
The memorial itself is embodied by a<br />
shrine. In the main room, which still<br />
contains the hooks in the wall from<br />
where prisoners were hanged, several<br />
wreaths and fl ags mark the place<br />
where many atrocities occurred. In<br />
addition to this chilling reminder of<br />
the reality of the prison’s history,<br />
there is a small but informative<br />
exhibition on the history of the prison<br />
and the lives of its more prominent<br />
victims. However for a site with<br />
131 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 132
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
such an important history, there is<br />
relatively little else to see.<br />
In a <strong>Berlin</strong> which is full of memorial<br />
after memorial to the victims of<br />
Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small<br />
exhibition may seem like one too<br />
many for the average visitor. The<br />
distance from the centre of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
may also be troublesome – the<br />
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located<br />
at least a kilometre from the nearest<br />
station, though there is a bus that<br />
stops about a 5 minute walk away,<br />
and you need to walk through an<br />
industrial estate to get there.<br />
In many ways though, this remoteness<br />
adds to the atmosphere perhaps<br />
helping one to understand the<br />
isolation of the condemned prisoners.<br />
Although this memorial is small,<br />
it is very well laid out and gives a<br />
disquieting exposition of the terrible<br />
events that took place here.<br />
Story of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
www.story-of-berlin.de.<br />
Kurfürstendamm 207-208. U-Bahn:<br />
Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720<br />
100. Price: €8-10.<br />
As the Story of <strong>Berlin</strong> goes, “The only<br />
tradition this city will accept is that<br />
it does not have a tradition”. This<br />
statement is no better proven than<br />
in this eclectic <strong>Berlin</strong> sensation.<br />
Situated on classy Kufürstendamm,<br />
inside a shopping centre, the Story of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> museum makes no pretence of<br />
being overly-scholarly or intellectual.<br />
Instead the museum is very accessible<br />
to all.<br />
Without assuming that the visitor has<br />
any prior knowledge, the exhibition<br />
leads through a quick-fi re tour of<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s history, from 1237-1930,<br />
establishing the scene for later, much<br />
more familiar, events.<br />
A lot of different media are used to<br />
create the feeling of moving through<br />
time; sound effects, videos and lifesize<br />
models in particular help the<br />
visitor to feel that they are actually<br />
there. Moving forward into the Nazi<br />
period (descending down an eerily lit<br />
narrow staircase), these effects only<br />
become more prominent.<br />
The sound of breaking glass is<br />
used to establish the presence of<br />
Kristallnacht and, almost before<br />
realising, the visitor walks over<br />
real book spines encased within the<br />
fl oor, symbolising the infamous Book<br />
Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles<br />
of rubble to evoke post-war <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
may seem a little heavy-handed<br />
and melodramatic to some, but the<br />
decorated living rooms of both East<br />
and West offer interesting points of<br />
comparison.<br />
Be warned that there is a lot to read<br />
and take in at once. In addition to<br />
this no-senses-bared journey through<br />
time, there is also the chance to tour<br />
one of West <strong>Berlin</strong>’s largest nuclear<br />
bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of<br />
over 3,200 people this bunker was<br />
never used for its intended purpose,<br />
but the site remains almost exactly<br />
as it was in the 1970s. Informed<br />
tour guides give a fascinating insight<br />
into how life in the bunker might<br />
have been like had the bomb ever<br />
dropped.<br />
The sheer variety of topics covered<br />
by this large museum would almost<br />
defy belief, if they were not all<br />
linked by their relationship to the<br />
city of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
This only goes to show how much<br />
depth and diversity <strong>Berlin</strong> itself<br />
has. Seeing all of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history<br />
together in this way indicates how<br />
much this city has led the world in so<br />
many areas, yet somehow it remains<br />
utterly unique.<br />
133 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 134
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Käthe Kollwitz Museum<br />
www.kaethe-kollwitz.de.<br />
Fasanenstaβe 24. U-Bahn:<br />
Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825<br />
210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price:<br />
€2.50-5.<br />
Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist<br />
working in the fi rst half of the 20th<br />
century. Unusually for<br />
a female artist, she<br />
was highly successful<br />
and infl uential in her<br />
own lifetime. She<br />
was also a dedicated<br />
socialist and, having<br />
lost both her son<br />
and her grandson in<br />
World War One and<br />
Two respectively, was<br />
defi antly anti-war.<br />
These convictions<br />
made her a target<br />
for the Nazis, who<br />
removed her from a<br />
prestigious position at<br />
the Academy of Art and banned all<br />
exhibitions of her work from 1937<br />
on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly<br />
before the end of the war.<br />
Pacifi st, socialist and maternal<br />
themes are a recurrent feature of<br />
her work, exemplifi ed by famous<br />
prints such as the Memorial to Karl<br />
Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924),<br />
and the Krieg series of woodcuts<br />
(1922/23).<br />
Her work is highly politicised and<br />
emotive. It is often bleak, executed<br />
almost entirely in monochrome,<br />
and displaying an empathy with<br />
the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz<br />
museum houses a<br />
collection of drawings,<br />
prints and sculptures<br />
over four fl oors, and you<br />
can see more sculptures<br />
in the garden. The<br />
museum also contains<br />
a collection of selfportraits<br />
from 1888 –<br />
1938.<br />
Kollwitz’ signifi cance<br />
can be seen all over<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>: the central<br />
square in Prenzlauer<br />
Berg, where the<br />
artist lived, is named<br />
Kollwitzplatz and<br />
contains a sculpture of her. An<br />
enlarged copy of one of her most<br />
famous works, the sculpture Mother<br />
with Dead Son, is the focal point of<br />
the war memorial Neue Wache on<br />
Unter den Linden. Her importance<br />
to the culture of the city is clear,<br />
making a trip to this small museum<br />
a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s<br />
135 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 136
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Olympiastadion<br />
Olympische Platz 3.<br />
U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn:<br />
Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688<br />
100. Closed during sporting events.<br />
Price: €3-4, Family: €8.<br />
Going to watch Hertha <strong>Berlin</strong> play<br />
at the Olympiastadion is more than<br />
just seeing a football match. The<br />
iconic stadium provides a great site<br />
for football, and entry through the<br />
Olympic rings gives a sense of how<br />
history and sport have come to mix.<br />
Once inside the home support is<br />
immediately recognisable, mainly<br />
dominating one area of the ground<br />
with customary continental fl ag<br />
waving and group jumping.<br />
The atmosphere is good especially<br />
when the home fans decide to get<br />
the drums and chants going. However<br />
this can be slightly lost, due to its<br />
large capacity, as the stadium only<br />
sells out when the big teams arrive<br />
in town.<br />
This though does have the advantage<br />
of tickets often being readily available<br />
History...<br />
The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in<br />
world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by<br />
Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk<br />
underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time<br />
but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided<br />
to give <strong>Berlin</strong> the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to<br />
build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one.<br />
The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals<br />
which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race<br />
policy. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime example of the neoclassical<br />
architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features<br />
such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war<br />
the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> played there and in 1974 it played host to some World Cup games.<br />
After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a stateof-the-art<br />
roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World<br />
Cup matches in 2006, including the fi nal; and the 2009 World Athletics<br />
Championships.<br />
with a decent price range to choose<br />
from, although it is probably best to<br />
aim for a mid-range ticket.<br />
The team itself is a founding<br />
member of the German FA and their<br />
performances have picked up in<br />
recent seasons but they still have<br />
not reached the illustrious heights of<br />
other German teams such as Bayern<br />
Munich.<br />
137 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 138
Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />
Aroma<br />
www.cafe-aroma.de. Kantstrasse 35.<br />
U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf Strasse. Tel:<br />
+49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm-<br />
3am. Price: €3-15.<br />
On the corner of Kantstrasse<br />
and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a<br />
Cantonese style restaurant, and one<br />
of the bigger and older establishments<br />
in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s modest Chinatown. Aroma<br />
is one of the few places in <strong>Berlin</strong> that<br />
serves authentic dim-sum.<br />
Though it can get quite busy around<br />
noon, and on weekends, it is a nice<br />
and relaxing place to have a late<br />
lunch. The German/Chinese speaking<br />
staff are quick to serve and though<br />
the menus are scarce of any English,<br />
the colourful pictures make it much<br />
easier to pick your meal.<br />
Lon-Men’s Noodle House<br />
Kantstrasse 33. U-Bahn Wilmersdorf<br />
Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 519 678. Mon-<br />
Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8.<br />
Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a familyrun<br />
Taiwanese eatery that serves<br />
some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle<br />
dishes. This small, simplistically<br />
decorated restaurant resembles<br />
one you would fi nd on the streets of<br />
Taiwan. Not to be confused by the<br />
name, you can order dishes aside<br />
from noodles.<br />
Although they offer a number of<br />
rice entrees, spring rolls, and other<br />
appetizers, the dish to try is the<br />
beef noodle soup. This comes with<br />
a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn<br />
noodles and carefully seasoned<br />
soup. It is topped with savoury slices<br />
of masterfully marinated beef,<br />
and sprinkled with tangy, pickled<br />
vegetables.<br />
The meals come in two sizes: €4<br />
for a small bowl (typical meal<br />
sized), or €8 for a large one (for the<br />
hearty traveller). This little piece of<br />
Taiwan in <strong>Berlin</strong> is defi nitely worth<br />
a visit, and though there are some<br />
differences from the meals served<br />
over 5000 miles away, they are a<br />
close second best.<br />
Der Kuchenladen<br />
w w w. d e r - k u c h e n l a d e n . d e .<br />
Kantstrasse 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf<br />
Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue-<br />
Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm.<br />
Price: €2-5.<br />
Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint<br />
cake shop called Der Kuchenladen<br />
(literally, the cakeshop). The brightly<br />
coloured wallpaper catches the<br />
eyes and draws you in, as do the<br />
chandeliers adorned with crystal<br />
ornaments. Upon walking in, you are<br />
immediately greeted by the aroma of<br />
baking chocolate.<br />
Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a<br />
storybook sweets shop. The room is<br />
lined with a myriad of freshly baked<br />
cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The<br />
small, but well-equipped tables look<br />
fi t for a tea party.<br />
Their selections of cakes are changed<br />
daily, and range from a simple piece<br />
of cheesecake to the more exotic<br />
Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable<br />
cake made with rice, pistachios,<br />
cherries, and topped with a light<br />
layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries<br />
are fairly priced, with the generous<br />
portions big enough for two.<br />
139 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 140
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
Pension Peters<br />
www.pension-peters-berlin.de.<br />
Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn:<br />
Savignyplatz. Tel: +49 303 122 278.<br />
Price:<br />
Singles: from €58<br />
Doubles: €79-85<br />
Triples: €95<br />
Quads: €105<br />
Located just aound the corner from<br />
Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is<br />
perfect for groups of travellers on a<br />
budget or couples with a little looser<br />
budget than the average traveller.<br />
Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles<br />
are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros,<br />
quads are 105 euros, and fi ve beds<br />
are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is<br />
included in the price.<br />
The pension was opened in the 1930s<br />
and has been run by the same family<br />
for the last fourteen years. It has<br />
brand new facilities and a simple<br />
and artistic design that fi ts perfectly<br />
with the pension’s sleek atmosphere.<br />
Although the pension is on a busy<br />
street, most rooms surround a<br />
courtyard set back from the main<br />
road, so there is not much of a<br />
problem with noise. The quad rooms<br />
are ideal for groups because if four<br />
people split the price, the cost ends<br />
up being comparable to a hostel, and<br />
groups do not have to share their<br />
bedroom or bathroom.<br />
The pension is walking distance<br />
to many cafés, restaurants and<br />
shops, so travellers will be spoilt<br />
for choice when trying to decide<br />
where to get a meal, or where to go<br />
shopping. The main shopping street,<br />
Kurfurstendamm, is a fi ve to ten<br />
minute walk away from the pension.<br />
* Free wi-fi<br />
* Breakfast buffet included<br />
* Includes shower, toilet, TV.<br />
141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 142
Schöneburg Information<br />
Schöneberg is now one of the more<br />
gentrifi ed areas of <strong>Berlin</strong>, but it has<br />
a surprisingly radical past. Around<br />
Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is<br />
the city’s oldest gay quarter, and<br />
Schöneberg is still home to the<br />
largest gay community in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />
Nollendorfplatz is the scene of<br />
much of the nightlife, and inside the<br />
U-Bahn station there is a memorial<br />
to homosexuals murdered by the<br />
Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of<br />
fascism in pre-war <strong>Berlin</strong> are vividly<br />
described in Christopher Isherwood’s<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong> Stories, which are based on<br />
his experiences living at Nollendorf<br />
Straβe 17.<br />
Other famous former residents of the<br />
borough include David Bowie and Iggy<br />
Pop, who rented a fl at at Hauptstraβe<br />
155 in the late seventies. Sixties<br />
chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did<br />
Marlene Dietrich who is now buried<br />
in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery.<br />
Fans of famous gravestones can also<br />
visit the fi nal resting place of the<br />
Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus-<br />
Kirchhof.<br />
The area’s best known sight is<br />
Rathaus Schöneberg where John F<br />
Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin<br />
ein <strong>Berlin</strong>er’ speech in 1963. The<br />
well-known story that the president<br />
actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’<br />
is false. In fact, <strong>Berlin</strong>ers had such<br />
high regard for him after the speech<br />
that, the day after his assassination,<br />
the square outside the Rathaus was<br />
renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For<br />
cafes and bars try the area around<br />
Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also<br />
a busy Saturday market.<br />
143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />
Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus<br />
Schöneberg<br />
John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn:<br />
Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun<br />
9am – 4pm.<br />
This small but perfectly formed<br />
antiques haven is a cut above<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>’s numerous other fl ea<br />
markets. The goods on offer<br />
are of high quality and there is<br />
much to choose from.<br />
In front of the impressive<br />
Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls<br />
overfl ow with furniture, arts and<br />
crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl<br />
records, books and jewellery.<br />
Whilst others may come away<br />
from Moritzplatz with a pair<br />
of tie-dyed Harem pants, at<br />
Schöneberg visitors barter for<br />
Art Deco chandeliers, mink<br />
stoles, antique books and<br />
silverware.<br />
Prices start out high, given<br />
the nature of what’s on offer,<br />
but haggling is both the norm<br />
and expected. Books written<br />
in English are also widely<br />
available, which sell for around<br />
€3 each. There are bargains<br />
to be had if you are ready and<br />
willing to search.<br />
Botanical Gardens<br />
www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise-<br />
Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer<br />
Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am-<br />
9pm in summer. Price: €2-5.<br />
Being the second<br />
largest botanical<br />
garden in the<br />
world this beautiful<br />
reserve allows for<br />
endless wanderings<br />
and musings while<br />
offering a haven<br />
from <strong>Berlin</strong>’s nearby<br />
urban landscape.<br />
It boasts 126 acres<br />
of lawns, forests and<br />
lakes and is home<br />
to 22,000 species<br />
of fl ora nurtured<br />
in the many<br />
different gardens<br />
and habitats of the<br />
park.<br />
Amongst the tall trees and idyllic<br />
lakes there is an elegant Italian<br />
garden, a medicinal plant garden,<br />
and a section where you can handle<br />
unusually shaped and scented<br />
varieties of plant and fl ower – the<br />
fragrance and touch garden.<br />
The striking bio domes house tropical,<br />
sub-tropical and desert climatic<br />
zones. After you’ve walked through<br />
the extensive displays of cacti, visit<br />
the carnivorous plant section.<br />
The orchid exhibit and the tropical<br />
dome are a must.<br />
You may also be<br />
lucky to spot an<br />
u n s u s p e c t i n g<br />
gecko or one<br />
of the green<br />
woodpeckers that<br />
were introduced<br />
to create a more<br />
authentic and<br />
stable ecosystem.<br />
The park’s museum<br />
consolidates many<br />
aspects of the<br />
garden itself, and<br />
enables visitors to<br />
see the gardens<br />
as they are in<br />
different seasons.<br />
There are exhibits that explore the<br />
different scientifi c plant structures<br />
and others that focus more on the<br />
complex relationship between plants<br />
and culture.<br />
So whether a nature buff, a treehugging<br />
hippy or just in need of an<br />
escape this is something that should<br />
not be missed.<br />
145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146
Shopping<br />
KaDeWe<br />
www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe<br />
21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz.<br />
Tel: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am-<br />
8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am-<br />
8pm.<br />
For those in need of some highend<br />
retail therapy, this seven fl oor<br />
“department store of the West” holds<br />
claim to being the second largest in<br />
Europe.<br />
As expected from somewhere bearing<br />
such an accolade, the assortment of<br />
goods on sale is vast, ranging from<br />
evening and cocktail fashion to<br />
accessories for dogs.<br />
If the enormity of this <strong>Berlin</strong><br />
establishment seems overwhelming,<br />
then direct your energy towards the<br />
gastronomic glory of the sixth-fl oor<br />
food hall. The incredible array of fi ne<br />
foods and wines on offer cannot fail<br />
to impress.<br />
Treat yourself to some quality<br />
German confectionary or limited<br />
edition designer mineral water as you<br />
pass through. Alternatively, linger<br />
for longer and enjoy an informal<br />
meal from one of the many eateries<br />
nestled amongst the food and drink<br />
counters.<br />
The grandeur of the designerlined<br />
“Luxury Boulevard” is equally<br />
worth perusing. Whether or not you<br />
have the appropriate-sized wallet<br />
to tackle this <strong>Berlin</strong> institution,<br />
KaDeWe is certainly worth any<br />
ardent shopper’s time.<br />
Route 66<br />
http://route66diner.de. Pariser<br />
Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. Tel:<br />
+49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am-<br />
2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am.<br />
This 1950’s American diner-themed<br />
restaurant offers a broad menu of<br />
typical US and Mexican cuisine.<br />
The restaurant utterly<br />
indulges in kitsch, and<br />
is kitted out with an<br />
excess of neon lights,<br />
eating booths and mini<br />
duke boxes at each<br />
table.<br />
The steaks are juicy,<br />
the burgers wholesome<br />
and milkshakes are<br />
thick and creamy.<br />
There is substantial in and outdoor<br />
seating space and a selection of<br />
Food & Drink<br />
plasma televisions that screen sport<br />
regularly.<br />
Sunday brunch is offered from 10am-<br />
3pm where pancakes, muffi ns and<br />
eggs cooked to your preference may<br />
be guzzled. Substantial portions,<br />
with main courses starting from €5.<br />
147 Schöneberg Schöneberg 148<br />
Rani<br />
Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn:<br />
Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel:<br />
+49 30 215 267. Open daily from<br />
11am. Main dishes from €5, side<br />
dishes from €2.<br />
Slightly hidden away in the streets<br />
of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian<br />
restaurant. There is a large selection<br />
of incredibly fl avoursome traditional<br />
Indian meals available at very<br />
reasonable prices.<br />
The atmosphere is<br />
suitably casual as diners<br />
tuck into what inevitably<br />
becomes a monstrous<br />
feast as the aromas and<br />
fl avours lure you into<br />
trying many of the dishes<br />
on offer.<br />
A highlight on the menu<br />
is defi nitely the Tikka dishes that that<br />
come served to the table on a frying<br />
skillet, much to the allure of other<br />
guests in the restaurant.
Food & Drink<br />
Joseph Roth Diele<br />
www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer<br />
Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten<br />
Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon-<br />
Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials<br />
from €3.<br />
At fi rst glance this small but<br />
charming German restaurant along<br />
Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost<br />
resemble a 1920’s American diner.<br />
However, the only<br />
similarity here lies<br />
in its collection of<br />
old photographs and<br />
memorabilia that<br />
give testament to<br />
the establishment’s<br />
rooted history.<br />
Named after a<br />
Jewish writer whose<br />
material can be<br />
found throughout<br />
the dining room, it<br />
provides a limited<br />
but delicious<br />
selection of meals<br />
that vary throughout<br />
the week.<br />
During the daytime, the menu is<br />
limited to a daily special (one meat<br />
and one vegetarian), and in the<br />
evening there is a slightly more<br />
expansive range of meals on offer.<br />
Value for money is key here with<br />
average daytime meal prices starting<br />
from as low as €4. In spite of the<br />
low price, the food is delicious and<br />
hearty, if not totally inspiring, and<br />
is perfect to be enjoyed in such a<br />
humble establishment.<br />
The most appealing aspect of the<br />
restaurant however can be found<br />
its art-deco style. A wonderful<br />
contrast of abstract furnishings<br />
and old photos can be found within<br />
to suitably accompany your meal.<br />
There are a wide range of barrel and<br />
bottled beers on offer, in addition to<br />
a respectable selection of wines.<br />
Munch’s Hus Restaurant<br />
www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße<br />
66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49<br />
30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am.<br />
Prices range from €4-€17.<br />
As the only Norwegian restaurant in<br />
<strong>Berlin</strong>, this place is defi nitely worth<br />
a visit if you fancy a change from<br />
Currywurst.<br />
Situated in the Schöneberg district,<br />
Munch’s Hus boasts a range of<br />
traditional Norwegian delicacies<br />
including fresh fi sh dishes and<br />
Food & Drink<br />
delicious meatballs. For those<br />
seeking a light lunch, sandwiches<br />
and salads are also available.<br />
The restaurant’s interior adds a<br />
sophisticated touch, with large open<br />
windows, summery yellow walls and<br />
paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard<br />
Munch who lived in <strong>Berlin</strong> in the<br />
1890’s.<br />
The light atmosphere and the<br />
affordable yet high quality food make<br />
this restaurant a hit with everyone<br />
from businessmen to students.<br />
149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150
Accommodation Accommodation<br />
Jungen House Aletto<br />
www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse<br />
33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel:<br />
+49 3 021 003 680.<br />
Prices:<br />
Dorm rooms: €15.<br />
Single Rooms: €35.<br />
Double Rooms: €39.<br />
This modern style hostel at fi rst<br />
glance looks like a hotel with<br />
plenty of places to wind down after<br />
sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto<br />
has a relaxing sociable atmosphere<br />
where you can meet other travellers<br />
while drinking tea or coffee courtesy<br />
of the hostel.<br />
There’s a lot to do in and around<br />
this area as the hostel is a stone’s<br />
throw away from the U-Bahn and<br />
tram stops, which can take you to<br />
popular streets like Goltzstraβe and<br />
Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots<br />
such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche<br />
and the Zoo.<br />
Each room has all the essentials and<br />
are ensuite. The rooms are compact<br />
as they’ve certainly made use of<br />
their space but there is heaps of<br />
storage so you won’t be tripping<br />
over people’s luggage. All the rooms<br />
are modern, clean and each bed is<br />
provided with linen and towels.<br />
Although the hostel is on the main<br />
road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole<br />
hostel is quiet – something they pride<br />
themselves on. The only drawback<br />
is there’s no lift to this fi ve storey<br />
building.<br />
· 24-Hour Reception<br />
· All-you-can-eat breakfast<br />
· Linen provided<br />
Sunshine Hostel<br />
www.sunshinehouse-berlin.de.<br />
Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />
Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262<br />
079.<br />
Prices: rooms from €19.50<br />
This colourful hostel is a place for<br />
travellers of all ages. The hostel has<br />
a defi nite community feeling with<br />
friendly English-speaking staff who<br />
are very considerate to their guests<br />
needs. Although the hostel is close to<br />
the motorway it has a huge courtyard<br />
area with plenty of places to relax in<br />
the sun or have a BBQ lunch.<br />
The hostel has four separate blocks<br />
with four levels. Each level is similar<br />
to that of an apartment building with<br />
four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a<br />
small fully-equipped kitchen.<br />
All the rooms are furnished and<br />
there’s heaps of space for even the<br />
largest suitcases. There are keys to<br />
each room and each fl oor as well as<br />
the gates to the grounds so it is very<br />
safe.<br />
There is also a lounge/basement area<br />
with TV, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s<br />
very light, spacious and is kept clean<br />
and tidy, ready for use. Although<br />
there’s not 24-hour reception there<br />
is a code lock system to retrieve your<br />
key if you arrive late at night.<br />
The staff can also prepare breakfast<br />
for hungry travellers, which is lovely<br />
to eat outside in the courtyard or<br />
in the apartment if it’s cold. If you<br />
fancy eating out there are plenty<br />
of cafes and restaurants as well as<br />
shops round the corner from the<br />
hostel.<br />
· BYO towels<br />
· Breakfast €5 by request<br />
· Internet and WIF<br />
151 Schöneberg Schöneberg 152
Contributors Contributors<br />
153 154
Contributors Credits<br />
Zaineb Al Hassani<br />
Talya Friedman<br />
Natascha Vogel<br />
Ben Dillman<br />
Adam Willsmore<br />
Sebastian Cure<br />
Emily Vindler<br />
Pamela Mair<br />
Kaye Nicolson<br />
Daniel Smith<br />
Karolin Hosenfelder<br />
Michael McKay<br />
Sierra Bucher<br />
Sara Johnstone<br />
Jason Chen<br />
David Vanderhoff<br />
Nadine Truong<br />
Charlotte Nettleship<br />
Matt Wilson<br />
Amy Yu<br />
Jessica Davidson<br />
Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />
Elizabeth Janowski<br />
Lucy Bates<br />
Rebecca Dopson<br />
Kirsten Rumbles<br />
Helen McFadridge<br />
Piers Leonard<br />
Tom Foster<br />
Rosanne Visser<br />
Alison Holland<br />
Kieren Monaghan<br />
Jay Patani<br />
Alana Marmion-Warr<br />
Katie Clark<br />
Peter Bolton<br />
Michael Alhadeff<br />
Dorothy Melander-Dayton<br />
Zoe Milne<br />
Nicky Branagh<br />
Sheena Odwyer<br />
Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />
Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />
Zoe Milne<br />
Matt Wilson<br />
Graphic Design: Matt Wilson<br />
Art Direction: Matt Wilson<br />
Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />
Zoe Milne<br />
Sebastian Cure<br />
Rosanne Visser<br />
Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser<br />
Tom Foster<br />
Matt Wilson<br />
Nadine Truong<br />
Project City Travel Review by:<br />
www.citytravelreview.co.uk<br />
www.curso24.de<br />
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Credits Credits<br />
© All Contributors 2009<br />
This document or part thereof may<br />
not be reproduced without express<br />
permission from the authors.<br />
©:<br />
Zaineb Al Hassani<br />
Talya Friedman<br />
Natascha Vogel<br />
Ben Dillman<br />
Adam Willsmore<br />
Sebastian Cure<br />
Emily Vindler<br />
Pamela Mair<br />
Kaye Nicolson<br />
Daniel Smith<br />
Karolin Hosenfelder<br />
Michael McKay<br />
Sierra Bucher<br />
Sara Johnstone<br />
Jason Chen<br />
David Vanderhoff<br />
Nadine Truong<br />
Charlotte Nettleship<br />
Matt Wilson<br />
Amy Yu<br />
Jessica Davidson<br />
Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />
Elizabeth Janowski<br />
Lucy Bates<br />
Rebecca Dopson<br />
Kirsten Rumbles<br />
Helen McFadridge<br />
Piers Leonard<br />
Tom Foster<br />
Rosanne Visser<br />
Alison Holland<br />
Kieren Monaghan<br />
Jay Patani<br />
Alana Marmion-Warr<br />
Katie Clark<br />
Peter Bolton<br />
Michael Alhadeff<br />
Dorothy Melander-Dayton<br />
Zoe Milne<br />
Nicky Branagh<br />
Sheena Odwyer<br />
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