Berlin - michael

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Berlin - michael

Schöneberg Schöneberg

General Information General Information


Contents

Contents

1 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 2


Berlin

Tube Map

3 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 4


History History

Berlin from 1237-1900

Berlin is a name which conjures many

images: a city at the centre of war, a

confl icted and divided city. A city, if

you will, on the extremes.

Having been the axis of so much of

the world’s recent history, it might

be easy to assume that this was all

that Berlin had to offer in terms of

historical interest. But this is not so.

It has been said of Berlin that it is the

centre of Germany just as Germany

is the centre of Europe.

In tracing back a few hundred years,

it is possible to see how this came

to be. Geographically speaking,

Berlin came into existence as an

insignifi cant trade town situated

in between the two older towns of

Spandau and Cölln. This central

position worked to Berlin’s favour as

it continued to grow and enveloped

both other towns within its own

boundaries.

Though Berlin can only date its own

foundation from the fi rst extant

mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin

that, by the mid-fourteenth century,

had become the most important

trading town in Brandenburg, with

its own City Council and Stadtbuch.

By the time of the Reformation,

Berlin had become an important

German town in its own right,

particularly special to many being

one of the fi rst cities in Europe to

embrace Lutheranism. Because of

this, many French Huguenots fl ed

to Berlin bringing with them their

intellectual and industrial talents.

Even today, though the name

“Huguenot” has become largely

insignifi cant in modern-day

Europe, this relationship between

French Protestants and Berlin

is still celebrated in Mitte’s

Gendarmenmarkt.

Here the Französicher Dom and

the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each

other in design, are monuments to

the great respect these two groups

had for each other. Despite the years

between Napoleon’s invasion of

Brandenburg and the Cold War, when

Franco-German relations were at a

very low ebb, it is nice to see these

two rivals still facing each other in

friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt.

Not only a trend-setter in religion,

Berlin became a leader in the

Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,

Friedrich the Great, transformed

Prussia - with Berlin as its capital -

into an enlightened, politically and

economically strong and religiously

tolerant state.

Even defeats in the Thirty Years War

failed to completely destroy Prussia’s

supremacy. This in time transformed

the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of

the greatest in Europe, related by

marriage to most of the great houses

on the continent.

This strength, nobility and stature

were, along with the talents of

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History History

Otto von Bismarck, one of the main

reasons why Berlin and its monarchy

became the head of the newly unifi ed

Germany.

Despite the later failures of this

system in the early years of the

20th century, this age of a strong

and enlightened German Empire,

led from Berlin, remained in the

European psyche for many years.

Jewish History of Berlin

The history of the Jewish community

is plagued by episodic persecution,

Jews often being used as a scapegoat

for economic and social woes.

By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were

barred from many professions and

effectively forbidden to become

members of the artisan guilds.

Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries

Jews were expelled from Berlin and

let back in time and again, accused

of acts such as the rampant plague

in Berlin and Brandenburg, which

had been sweeping across Europe;

and host desecration; which meant

that Berlin had virtually no Jewish

community for a century.

Between expulsions and being

banned from most other trades, the

Jewish people of Berlin successfully

engaged in money lending and

petty trade. They were confi ned

to living in a ghetto in the Grosser

Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on

Judenstrasse (Jew Street).

Following the devastation of the

Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt

to achieve an economic upswing by

increasing population, the Great

Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50

prosperous Jewish families that were

expelled from Vienna to settle in the

Brandenburg region in 1671. They

were permitted to stay under the

condition that they pay an annual

protection fee, engage in only

certain businesses and worship only

in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish

community of Berlin was offi cially

founded.

Despite suffering restrictions on

religion, residence and family size

as well as extra taxes, the Jewish

population of Berlin grew and by

1700 the city’s Jewish slums had

approximately 1,000 residents. In

1714 the fi rst synagogue of Berlin was

dedicated. As excellent merchants

and bankers, by halfway through the

18th century the Jewish community

totaled close to 2,000 and they had

become among the richest people in

Berlin.

Philosopher and scholar Moses

Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in

1743, and urged Jews to integrate

into secular society and by 1778 these

enlightened ideas found expression

in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish

Free School) that combined religious

learning with general education.

Though the 1812 Emancipation

Edict that declared Jewish people

equal citizens was in the most

part quickly retracted, there was

a general loosening on Prussia’s

restrictions and growing equality for

its Jewish population. By 1869 the

new North German Confederation

passed a law on the equal rights of

religious confession

and declared the

emancipation of

Jewish people

within its territory

and by 1871 German

Jews had equal

rights. Within a

few years members

of the Jewish

community rose to

prominence in government, many

as close advisors to the Kaiser. By

the turn of the century, there were

more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin,

comprising more than 5% of the total

population.

In the Weimer years (1919-1933)

Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin

enjoyed unprecedented levels of

freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt

taking the stage, Jewish composers

including Arnold Schoenberg’s works

being performed, Max Liebermann

and Lesser Ury creating beautiful

paintings and musicians such as the

Comedian Harmonists at the height

of popularity. The Jewish population

continued to grow and by 1933

160,000 Jews called Berlin home.

At the same time anti-Semitism was

on the rise and the years leading up

to the ascendance of Nazi power saw

increasing attacks on members of the

Jewish community. Statebacked

persecution

ensued after the

Nazis took power in

1933, and with the

1935

Nüremberger

Gesetze

(Nuremberg

Laws) the Jewish

citizens of Germany

were effectively

deprived of social and

economic rights via the introduction

of apartheid-like classifi cations of

“racial purity”.

Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish

community life increased as Jewish

citizens were forced to send their

7 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 8


History History

children to segregated schools and

forbidden from interacting with

non-Jews. Those who could see the

writing on the wall and had money

escaped while they could, though

even such escape was a limited

opportunity, as other European

countries, the US and Palestine all

restricted Jewish immigration.

In retaliation for the assassination

of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath,

who was killed by a 17-year-old

Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the

Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph

Goebbels called for a nationwide

pogrom on November 9th 1938.

This night is known as

Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken

Glass, a nationwide attack on the

Jewish people that resulted in the

death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many

were beaten on the streets while

passers-by looked on; the destruction

of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of

hundreds of shops and businesses.

German Jewish citizens were then

required to pay one million marks to

repair the damages.

By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish

citizens to wear a yellow star at all

times, and the fi rst mass deportations

from Berlin marked the beginning of

the systematic large-scale genocide

of German Jews. Before the end of

the war over 55,000 Jewish residents

of Berlin were deported.

In January 1941 the Wannsee

Conference resolved and planned the

so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage

(Final Solution to the Jewish

Question) – the removal of all Jews

to the East and, implicitly, their

extermination. The Final Solution

began to be put into effect, and

life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin

became increasingly unbearable.

All Jewish schools and institutions

were closed down, the Jewish

community was disbanded, Jewish

citizens were banned from public

transport, their food rations

were reduced and thousands

were deported, mostly to the

Theresienstadt and Auschwitz

concentration camps.

By the end of the war,

Hitler’s mass genocide

had reduced Berlin’s

Jewish population by

around 96 per cent to

about 6,500. Survivors

managed to escape

death often through

being hidden by gentile

families at great

personal risk or by

evading fi nal round-ups

through legal conditions

such as irreplaceable

skills vital to the war

effort or being married to a non-Jew.

Only about 2,000 returned from the

concentration camps.

In 1946 the Jewish community was

offi cially recognized again as a

public body, and a large number of

Eastern European Jews immigrated

to Berlin. As a result of intense

anti-Semitic persecution in East

Germany, many members of the

Jewish community fl ed to the west.

As a result, the Jewish community of

East Berlin was almost non-existent,

and even by 1988 the East German

Jewish community had less than 200

members.

In West Berlin, the German Jewish

community had about 6,000

members, constituting

the largest Jewish

community in Germany.

After the two Berlin

Jewish communities

were reunited with the

fall of the Berlin Wall,

the federal government

approved refugee status

for Jews from the former

Soviet Union and since

then over 50,000 Jewish

people have immigrated

to Germany, with Berlin

more than doubling its

congregation members

to over 12,000.

Since reunifi cation several steps

have been taken to preserve Jewish

history including the opening of the

Jewish Museum and the decision by

the German Bundestag to erect the

Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden

Europas (Memorial for the Murdered

Jews of Europe) according to the

design by Peter Eisenman.

9 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 10


History History

The puzzle of the Berlin Wall

An anti-capitalistic protective barrier

with concrete pads, barbwire and

watchtowers held the East German

population from running away.

“A wall is a hell of a lot better than

war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon

hearing about the construction of

the Berlin Wall.

Nevertheless,

for about

28 years the

160km long

wall encased a

whole nation.

Between 1949

and 1961,

2 . 5 m i l l i o n

p e o p l e

escaped from

the German

Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying

to get over the wall, or hiding in

traffi c that was allowed to go through

the barriers. The accurate number of

people who were shot down when

they tried to escape varies according

to different sources. Many memorials

give an account of the GDR fugitives’

tragic destiny: bleeding to death

after being shot by border patrol

soldiers. Escape from the German

republic was classifi ed as treason,

punishable by death. There was

nothing the Western Berlin police

could do to stop this.

A sad chapter in German history was

put to an end when the Wall was

torn down in 1989, and as a result

the unifi cation of Germany ensued.

Of over 100 watchtowers three

are kept. Even some of the former

border crossings

are still clearly

recognizable, with

the most wellknown

transition

at Checkpoint

Charlie.

The wall was

broken up and

the remaining

sections becoming

memorials and

museums for the

fallen. The Todesstreifen (death

zone) can still be seen in many

places. Some have been left as

large areas of brown, uncultivated

land, while other parts have been

turned into parks. The pieces of

wall that were torn down and

demolished were sent to museums

and universities across the world,

and made into souvenirs for tourists.

Wall sections decorate, for example,

the historic port in Cape Town, South

Africa; the entrance of the Basilica

Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal;

the Vatican garden; the 6km long

green stream Cheonggyecheon in

South Korean city of Seoul; the EU

Parliament in Belgium; as well as

places in Strasbourg, Riga, London,

Canberra and Montréal. The biggest

Wall piece outside of Germany is

located in “Freedom Park” near

Arlington, Virginia.

The well-known East Side Gallery was

painted in 1990 by 118 artists from

21 different countries; previously it

was only allowed for West Germans.

The Gallery is not just for the artistic

exploration of the Wall’s demise, but

for the memory of the dead refugees.

During the Wall’s 20th anniversary

former artists were brought to the

capital city to remove the traces

of the last 18 years. The graffi ti

has suffered extensive damage

due to visitors and attacks from

Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).

A €2.5 million renovation is underway

and should be ready by Autumn

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11 Information 12


History History

2009. The maintenance of the wall

plays a major role, since it is both

an important monument to the

reunifi cation, as well as a Certifi cate

of European and world culture.

Anyone can acquire a valuable

memory in the form of a piece of the

Wall. Pieces come in different sizes,

which are also available online, up

to $150. However, if you want to see

more than just a 2x2cm piece, the

opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is

huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser

Platz next to the Brandenburger

Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer

Strasse (National Monument, U

Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße

with the longest preserved part of

the wall about 1.3km.

Those interested in the history of

the GDR and the fall of the Wall

should defi nitely go to the following

places. They will clear all important

questions and satisfy your thirst for

knowledge.

City Museum of Berlin

www.stadtmuseum.de

Am Köllnischen Park 5

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke

Tel: +49 3 024 002 159

Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm

Wed 12-8pm

Price: €4

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

www.mauermuseum.de

U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße

Tel: +49 302 537 250

Mo- Su 9am- 8pm

Price: €7.50-12.50

Chapel of Reconciliation

www.kapelle-versoehnung.de

Bernauerstr. 4

Tel: +49 304 636 034

Service to remember the victims

(Sunday 10am)

Tue-Sun 10am-5pm

Topographie of Terror

www.topographie.de

Niederkirchnerstr. 8

Tel: +49 3 025 450 950

Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am-

BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies

Looking back on Berlin’s

history begs the question

of how the bear became

its symbol. Unfortunately

it is not clear what was

here fi rst; Berlin or the

bear. It wasn’t until 1280

when the bear became the

heraldic animal of Berlin.

Today its image is still

used for advertisements

on different logos,

c e r t i f i c a t i o n s ,

newspapers, publications,

agencies, stamps and

even more in and around

Berlin. The bear even

became a permanent part

of the city’s fl ag in 1908.

Berlin bear art is scattered

all over the city in the

form of sculptures, plastic

models and architecture,

most of which are hidden

amongst the less touristprone

areas. Some have

also just been rebuilt

after they got eliminated

or damaged during the

Nazi regime. Today,

especially in Prenzlauer

Berg, there are many furry

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History History

inhabitants decorating the

streets. In the middle of

the public Volkspark lives

the most colorful bear

in Berlin. He was born in

1970 and fell pray to some

graffi ti artists in the last

couple of years. However

they decided to keep him

blue and call him Käpt’n

Blaubär (Captain Blue

bear) which is now a great

attraction for children

who know this bear from

TV.

At the Moabiter Bridge

(Bartningallee) there

are four different bears

designed by four sculptors

each at a different

location. The bridge was

built between 1893 and

1894 and was rebuilt due

to war damage between

1980 and 1981. The stone

bears are positioned on

all fours and appear to

be giant when standing

in front of them, their

huge paws and enormous

claws making them

appear even larger. Their

bodies look big and round,

nevertheless they do not

appear as feared creatures but rather

as cute clumsy bears, which delight

the pedestrians who pass over the

bridge. Around this area small cafes

and a cozy restaurant at the Spree

River invite everybody to sit down

and relax.

One of the most important bear art

pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished

fountain, which was rebuilt after

being destroyed during World War

II. Sutowski made his artwork out

of red Lava Tuff stone which gives

it an interesting pattern. This

fountain is decorated with one bear

in the center and eight smaller bears

around, almost as if the mother bear

is watching her children frolic.

Some of the bear art pieces are also

used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz

had the idea to paint bear sculptures,

sell them at auctions and give the

money to UNICEF and other children

aid organizations. In this way they

could donate more than two million

dollars in the last eight years. Jackie

Chan even brought the idea of the

United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.

Everybody can support this project,

take part in the competition and

maybe get the chance to give a

buddy bear a new fur colour.

If you want to get a shot of this

famous Berlin symbol- just keep your

eyes open and wherever you may go

you will always fi nd a bear.

15 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 16


Survival Guide

Berlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just

to make your visit that much more enjoyable,

we’ve gathered some useful information to help

you get by in the city.

Culture and etiquette

Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting

attitude to most things, although there is an

underlying sense of respect for rules and authority.

• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon -

offenders will more frequently be reprimanded

by onlookers than the police.

• Although a smoking ban was recently

introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars.

It is best to ask before you light up.

• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,

although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.

Useful tips

• For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are

double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the

Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm-

Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz.

• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm.

You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate.

• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,

with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are

available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the

nightlife lists are easy to decipher.

• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for

separate bins for plastic and glass.

Survival Guide

• Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.

• There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and

bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it

to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to

the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass

needs to be returned to get your deposit back.

• It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit

cards.

Transport

The city has a well integrated and

effi cient public transport network.

At fi rst glance it may appear quite

complex, but the interconnecting

suburban (S-Bahn) and underground

(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and

bus services ensure you won’t be left

stranded.

The U-Bahn service closes between

midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during

the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at

midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight

where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.

Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,

undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand

out fi nes of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!

If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them

before your journey.

Cycling in Berlin

If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffi c

and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why

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Survival Guide

don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s fl atter

than London and less chaotic than

Amsterdam. With over 800kms of fl at

land, parks, gardens and bike routes,

look no further than Berlin’s cycling

network.

Many hostels will recommend or rent

out bikes from a few hours to a few

days, but if you are spending a few

weeks or longer in Berlin it is wellworth

investing your money in a bike.

The average price to rent is €15 per

day, and most places will hold onto

a cash deposit or your passport until

you bring the bike back.

The best place to look for secondhand

bikes are fl ea-markets,

particularly Mauer Park,

where you can pick up a

bike for as little as €40.

Important Information

If you are hardcore and

bring or buy your own bike,

it’s best to remember the

following, whether biking or

walking:

• Remember that traffi c is

on the right-hand side of

the road. Bike paths, even

on the footpath, also follow

this rule.

• Buy a pump and tyre repair

kit, or at least know a few

locations of Bike Doctors,

just in case. There is a lot of

broken glass on the streets

in Berlin.

• Get a good lock. The fl ea

markets are quite cheap.

• Look before walking across a bike

path. Sometimes cyclists look for

someone to get angry with and will

verbally lash out.

• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take

your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside

of rush hour). Bikes are free when

you have a monthly ticket.

• Get off your bike and walk in busy

areas, or ride on the road.

Fat Tire Bike Tours

Survival Guide

• Keep a good lookout when riding

alongside pedestrians or cars. Both

can be dangerous and you’re in the

worst position to go fl ying.

• Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is

good fun, keeps you fi t and gets you

around with a lot less stress.

www.FatTireBikeToursBerlin.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:

Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr

16 – Sep 30).

The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin and getting active is

to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less

time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.

You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and

past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy

snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each

place.

There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the

Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent

out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide

Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.

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Survival Guide

Airports

Tegel Airport

Tel: +49 1 805 000 186

Tegel is 8km from the city centre,

which is easy and cheap to reach

by bus. The number 109 stops at

Zoologischer Station, or you can

catch the U-Bahn.

Schönefeld

Tel: +49 1 805 000 186

South of the city centre, Bus 171

can take you from the airport to

Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway

station. From there you can catch

the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains

into the city, 20kms away.

Accommodation Information

Berlin has a number of hostels that

provide all the necessary facilities:

bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI;

laundry facilities; plus added bonuses

like leisure and entertainment

facilities – bar; games room; TV room;

and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes

these are free or you may have to

pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to

go through these offers and decide

what is important to you and what

you can do without.

Booking a bed is easy and can be

done in a number of ways: online;

telephone; or the olde traditional

way…visit the hostel and book a

bed there and then. Booking online

however is quick, simple and often

cheaper. You could book via the

hostel’s website, but we recommend

using hostel search engines such

as HostelWorld.com. It is one of

the easiest search engines to use,

even for technophobes. Search by

area, price or browse the customer

ratings to fi nd the best hostel for

you. Keep an eye out for discounts

when booking online.

How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash

on arrival but each is different so

keep that in mind when browsing.

A small deposit is required when

booking over the internet to ensure

your bed is held, and is especially

worth doing during busy holiday

periods (May to September).

Useful words/phrases

English German

Yes, No Ja, Nein

Please Bitte

You’re welcome Bitte

Thank you Danke

Good Morning Guten Morgen

Good Day Guten Tag

Good Evening Guten Abend

Goodbye

(informal)

Tschüss

Goodbye Auf

(formal) Wiedersehen

How are you? Wie geht es

(formal) Ihnen?

How are you?

(informal)

Wie geht’s?

Today Heute

Tomorrow Morgen

Yesterday Gestern

Excuse me Entschuldigung

Where is...? Wo ist...?

How, When, Wie, Wann,

Why?

Warum?

Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen

Men’s toilets Herren/Männer

Survival Guide

Entrance Eingang

Exit Ausgang

I would like... Ich möchte...

Do you speak Sprechen Sie

English? Englisch?

1 eins

2 zwei

3 drei

4 vier

5 fünf

6 sechs

7 sieben

8 acht

9 neun

10 zehn

20 zwanzig

50 fünfzig

100 ein hundert

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Day Trips

Day trips out of Berlin

When you just need some time out

from the hustle and bustle of crazy

city life, hop on a train and see

what the end of the line holds. From

castles to beaches and even fi lm

studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are

just as fun as the inner city.

Potsdam

S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof

for regional trains.

Only twenty minutes by train,

Potsdam has just as much history as

Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci

and the fi lm park Babelsberg, there

are many activities to fi ll your

time. Historically Potsdam has been

around since AD 993, although it was

bombed heavily during World War II.

Potsdam is a small town and the

main street is your average cafe

and shopping strip. A lot of buildings

are also being rebuilt. Wander a

little further and you will fi nd the

original Brandenburger Tor, smaller

but still impressive. The royal palace

- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to

the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The

important Potsdam Conference was

held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies

all met to discuss how to deal with

Germany after World War II.

When you walk from town, take the

back entrance into Park Sanssouci.

Walk through Friedenskirche, Church

of Peace, where the view between

the concrete pillars will make you

feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking

out into a splash of colour with the

lake, trees and fl owers in full bloom.

Day Trips

Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the

1745 and 1747, is fl anked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700

side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and

paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.

Friedrich’s summer palace stands

above four layers of steps, gardens

and greenhouses – these were

built into the walls to protect the

hundreds of fi g trees during winter.

Maybe they were a personal favourite

of Friedrich the Great?

Head back to town and take in

the fi lm park Babelsberg. This was

where many fi lms, including those of

the silent era and Nazi propaganda

were produced. It is still an active

and important part of European fi lm

production. Some of the more recent

Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace fi lms produced there include The

built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;

guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,

overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.

23 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 24


Day Trips

Freibad Müggelsee

Fürstenwalder Damm 838,

Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777.

S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61:

Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept

9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions.

Though not Berlin’s most central

swimming area, this is a perfectly

pleasant sunny day outing. With

volleyball and basketball courts,

snacks and drinks for sale, and a

restaurant close by, this inland beach

on the north shore of East Berlin’s

biggest lake boasts a large sunbathing

and swimming area.

Although a sandy forefront, the

water is natural and fl at. It’s great

for throwing a ball around and

playing horse with your friends. As

the beach does get quite crowded,

especially on sunny weekends,

getting there early to claim a prime

sun-bathing spot is recommended.

From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes

about 45 minutes.

The Freikörperkultur (nudist)

section of the beach is separated

from the Freibad (open-air bathing

area) by 200m of forest. If you’re

interested in experiencing some of

Germany’s nudist culture get off

the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/

Müggelseedamm for the FKK section

of the beach. Tourists who are just

there to gawk will be treated with

some hostility, so make sure you’re

ready to fully participate in this

aspect of German culture if you

choose to visit the nudist area.

Krumme Lanke

S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open

all day, every day; free.

Allied Museum: www.

alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-

Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun

10am-6pm.

Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex

Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee

Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun

10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch

Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop

“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.

If you’re looking for a change from

the busy and hectic city centre, a

short trip to Schlachtensee Station is

a great way to spend a relaxing (and

free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk

from the station, Krumme Lanke

is surrounded by the trees of the

Grunewald Forest and can provide

the tranquillity and rest your feet so

much desire. It’s possible to swim,

row and walk around in the area, and

you can grab lunch from a cheap but

cheerful café next to the station.

Currywurst, bratwurst and more go

Day Trips

for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get

quite busy, so head there early to

claim a spot.

If you can’t beat your sightseeing

addiction, nearby is the Allied

museum, good for a visual

understanding of the Berlin Airlift

and American presence in the city

during much of the 20th century.

Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,

where the Nazis mapped out the

fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.

All in all an enjoyable day out worth

having if just to see another side to

the multifaced city.

25 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 26


Day Trips

S a c h s e n h a u s e n

Concentration Camp and

Memorial

www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen.

de. Memorial and Museum

Sachsenhausen. Straße der

Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn:

Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000.

Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free.

Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past

are all over the city, however a visit to

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

near Oranienberg is particularly

thought-provoking and encompasses

the many horrors of recent German

history.

The camp was built in 1936 under

Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler

as a model for future concentration

camps. Between 1936 and 1945

more than 200,000 people were

interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially,

the majority of these prisoners

were political opponents of Hitler’s

government: communists, social

democrats and trade unionists. This

soon widened to include anyone

that the Nazis deemed as racially

or biologically inferior such as

homosexuals and Jews.

During this period, tens of thousands

died at the camp from starvation,

forced labour, mistreatment and

extermination. Soviet

and Polish forces

liberated the camp on

April 22, 1945 - sadly

however, 300 of the

remaining inmates died

from malnutrition and

illnesses before they had

the chance to leave. The

mass grave in which these

prisoners are interred is

a particularly distressing

part of the camp.

The horrors of

Sachsenhausen did not

cease after the fall of the

Nazis. From August 1945

the Soviet secret police

reopened the camp for

the detention of their

own political prisoners

and war criminals;

this included anyone

suspected of opposition.

By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners

of war, suspected former Nazis and

Soviet political dissenters, were

incarcerated there. After the fall of

Day Trips

the GDR the remains of some 10,000

prisoners were found in mass graves.

The extensive horrors which took

place at Sachsenhausen during the

Nazi and GDR years are memorialised

by the national monument that

towers over the grounds.

The barren landscape

and the original barracks,

prison and security fencing

are eerily suggestive of

the extensive suffering

which occurred. In

particular the grim

sights of the mortuary,

living quarters and

infi rmary invite visitors to

contemplate experiences

of the prisoners. Invest

in the audio guide for €3

in order to fully grasp

the harrowing historical

importance of the site.

First-hand accounts

displayed in the museums

and played on the audio

guide serve to emphasise

the traumatic effect

Hitler’s fascist rule had on

millions of lives.

A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eyeopening

experience which reiterates

the cold reality of World War II and

the subsequent Soviet regime.

27 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 28


Mitte Information

Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s

most famous Boulevards, a 1.5kmlong

stretch panning east from the

Brandenburg Gate up to Museum

Island. Developed as a showpiece

since the 18th

century, where

it was then

used as a horseriding

route

to Tiergarten,

the road has

become a

gallery for

some of Berlin’s

greatest sights.

Museum Island

is a must see,

with some of

the worlds

fi nest art and sculpture. Whilst

in the area, a quick diversion

to the governmental quarter of

Berlin is defi antly worthwhile. The

Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped

bend of the Spree River, houses

several buildings running in an eastwest

direction to symbolically tie the

two halves of the city together. The

Reichstag, situated in the middle of

this unison, is a favourite amongst

visitors, as the glass dome gives

spectacular views across the city.

Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander

Platz is perhaps one of the busiest

places found in Berlin. Cluttered with

shops, a central station and various

fountains, it is something to be seen

if only for the novelty. And of course,

it is home to

the communist

commissioned TV

Tower - a great

landmark to

locate yourself

with when lost.

Pretty much

deserted during

the GDR era,

the Spandauer

Vorstadt has been

overtaken by

squatters, artists

and anyone

with a fl air for renovation. Its focal

point lies in Hackeschen Markt and

the bustling streets surrounding it,

crammed with busy (and expensive)

restaurants and shops. The area to

the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse

and the touristy Oranienburger

Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s

pre-war Jewish district. At the end

of Oranienburger Strasse lies the

graffi ti-covered Tachles, an anarchic

1990s artists’ squat still preserved as

such today, providing a good starting

point for Berlin’s nightlife.

29 Mitte Mitte 30


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Brandenburg Gate

Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den

Linden, Bus 100/200.

Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans

and built in 1791, the Brandenburg

Gate has become a focal point in

Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally,

it was recognised as a symbol of

German solidarity, as it looks out onto

the impressive Siegessäule, marking

Prussian military victories. With

many of Berlin’s main roads leading

towards it, the Gate is something

almost impossible to miss.

The site has witnessed many

important events in Berlin’s history,

including being a meeting place for

revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a

favoured rallying point for the Nazis’

torch-lit marches; and with the wall

enclosing the Gate in the Eastern

sector in 1961, it soon became a

symbol of the city’s division. Nearby

observation posts became a hot spot

for visiting politicians, including

Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them

a rare glimpse at life on the other

side.

Sitting on top of the Gate is the

equally historic Quadriga, the horsedrawn

chariot that was once snatched

up by Napoleon and relocated to

France (only to be returned to its

original home a few years later). The

GDR also did its own fi ddling with the

statue, including the removal of the

cross and it being turned around to

face the West during the cold-war

era.

Today, the Gate serves as a tourist

must-see, with families and

travellers posing for photos in front

of the impressive structure.

Berlin Hauptbanhof

www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1.

Nicknamed the “glass cathedral”

by locals, this central station offers

not only an easy route to almost

anywhere in Berlin and Europe,

but also a master class in glass and

steel architecture. The Gothic-style

construction was built primarily

for the 2006 football World Cup,

and hosts many shops, eateries and

meeting points one would expect in

such a large station.

Designed by two Hamburg-based

architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and

Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s

biggest train hub, boasting a capacity

of 300,000 travellers, running on

1,100 trains per day. Unlike other

stations in Berlin and across Europe,

its cleanliness and peacefulness are

dominant, with little to no graffi ti or

rubbish in sight.

Since its initial drawing-board stages,

the station was always planned

to observe a north-south, eastwest

axis, cutting through the long

circle line. This axis now serves as

a symbolic central point of Europe,

with trains coming from Rome and

Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.

Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines

going through this station and you

will get a great tour of the main sights

of Mitte, including the Reichstag,

the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you

don’t have a need to travel, simply

a quick trip here to look around is

worthwhile as the architecture is

remarkable.

31 Mitte Mitte 32


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Neue Wache

(New Guard House)

Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter

den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm.

Entrance Free.

Teeming with important historical

sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably

fascinating yet sometimes

exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New

Guard House) is perfect for quiet

contemplation: a momentary repose

amidst a hectic day of sightseeing.

The mourning sculpture by Käthe

Kollwitz stands alone in the centre

of the room, as a powerful symbol of

the emotional torment that ensued

after the Second World War.

It was the fi rst building designed by

the important German architect Karl

Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816-

1818). It notably emphasizes the

popular German Neo-Classical style

of architecture, which swept through

Germany in the 19th century. Until

the end of the monarchy in 1918,

the Neue Wache functioned as the

royal guard house. Since then, this

compact, yet simultaneously stately

building has served as a memorial for

victims of war.

The German architect Heinrich

Tessenow fi rst made changes to

the building in 1930-31, creating a

“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the

Great War”. He inserted the oculus

in the centre of the ceiling, through

which light fi lters into the dark

chamber, creating an atmospheric

Neue and almost eerie sensation – when

the building isn’t packed with

tourists.

Bombing from the Second World War

left the building scarred, and as a

result, in need of serious repair. From

1960, the GDR restored the building,

renaming it “Memorial to the Victims

of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the

chamber, an eternal fl ame burned.

In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the

remains of an Unknown Soldier and

concentration camp prisoner. In

1993, after German reunifi cation,

the hall was declared as the “Central

Memorial of the Federal Republic of

Germany”. Having been described as

a “monumentally void interior hall”,

the Neue Wache is nonetheless

worth a visit for its atmospheric and

emotional resonance.

Fernsehturm

www.berlinerfernsehturm.de.

Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn:

Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333.

Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am-

12am. Price: €4.50-9.50.

Towering above Berlin, the

Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as

a beacon for visitors and locals alike

to orientate themselves, since it can

be seen from all corners of the city.

The structure offers 360˚ views of

Berlin with a rotating café on the

Nikolaiviertel

(St Nicholas Quarter)

U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined

ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-

Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free

Wednesdays.

A short walk from bustling

Alexanderplatz one fi nds a quiet

square centred around the

Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.

Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel

appears to be one of the last

remainders of medieval Berlin, aside

from the Nikolaikirche, founded in

1240, most of the original buildings

in this area were either destroyed by

bombing or pulled down during the

1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist

of irony, many buildings were rebuilt

in 1987 by the GDR government

to look like the originals, using

photographs from the 1920s as

reference.

For historic interest, there is a series

of placards on various buildings

in the area giving information on

personalities who lived there or

events which took place. In terms of

museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,

the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-

Palais, together offering a fairly

comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s

history from its foundation to the

33 Mitte Mitte 34


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

nineteenth century.

This is a neighbourhood that plays

on its medieval heritage as much as

possible, from cafés proclaiming to

have been established in the 13th

century, to antiquarian booksellers

taking advantage of the archaic

atmosphere. However, there is

an obvious attempt to cash in on

this – you will fi nd a lot of souvenir

shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and

the restaurants tend to be a little

overpriced. The square also backs

onto the river which offers more

restaurants and a nice spot to eat or

rest.

upper fl oor, completing one rotation

every 30 minutes.

The Fernsehturm is 368m high and

was completed in 1969. The tower

was built with the intention of

demonstrating how technologically

advanced the East was. This symbol

of progress became a source of

embarrassment for the German

government. When hit with direct

sunlight, the tower creates the

refl ection of a cross, the same

symbol the government had tried so

hard to banish. The West Germans

called this “the Pope’s Revenge”

since all crosses had been removed

from East German churches. No

matter what the East Germans did,

the cross remained.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.

Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,

Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city

and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each

block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The

memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to fi nd their own path

through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through

the memorial for wheelchair users.

The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,

gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between

1933 and 1945. Photographs,

personal accounts and biographies

emphasise the harsh reality of

the harassment, expulsion, and

extermination of entire families.

Here you can fi nd information

that documents the geographic

spread of genocide as well as being

presented with the number of

victims from each occupied country

further highlighting the extent of

these horrifi c events. There is also

a room where visitors can search

for victims’ names in a database

that contains more than three

million entries.

Although admission is free, audio

guides available for €3. If you visit

on a Sunday at 4pm you can take

the guided tour, in English, also at

a cost of €3.

35 Mitte Mitte 36


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Hamburger Bahnhof

www.smb.museum/smb/hbf/.

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.

Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open:

Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3

concession.

An abstract collection of works,

from German artist and theorist

Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol,

are displayed beneath the roof of

this former railway station turned

contemporary art museum. Open

since 1996, the surreal collection

has been in the making since the

mid 1970’s, and highlights both the

limitless boundaries of abstract art

and the strong association Beuys

had with some of the art world’s

most unconventional and reputable

artists.

A modest glimpse into the bizarre

and borderline ridiculous nature

of contemporary modern art itself,

the gallery undeniably reeks of

inspiration and creativity that either

inspires or repels the passing masses.

Although guaranteed to split the

opinions of visitors, the collection is

well worth a look if not for ‘what is’

displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed.

Most visitors pop in for a quick

glimpse of the numerous original

works on display from pop arts front

man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’

(1973). The real gems are found in

the quotes scattered around from the

charismatic and controversial Joseph

Beuys, the clashing placement of

life-like pieces opposing walls of

absurdity, and the general conceited

nature of many of the passing

visitors.

Neue Synagoge

(New Synagogue)

www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger

Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:

Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr.

Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs

10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed

on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays.

Cupola open to visitors April-

September. Price: €1-5.

The New Synagogue of Berlin with

its golden cupola rises high above

the center of the city. Though it has

faced desecration and destruction,

it still remains a city landmark. Built

in 1866, the synagogue was once the

center of Jewish worship housing

over 3000 congregants.

The rise of the Nazis, though,

hindered this community. During the

November 1938 pogroms, known as

Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where

most Jewish sites were vandalized

and damaged, this synagogue was

salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the

district police chief of the time,

who forced the arsonists to leave

claiming it was under protection as

a city landmark.

Although services continued

afterwards until 1940, it was then

taken over and used as a storage

place for uniforms. Consequently in

1943, the synagogue was bombed by

the Allied Forces, severely damaging

it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall

was torn down, only the front of the

building remaining.

However in 1988, the main dome

and the two corner towers were

restored to look exactly as they

37 Mitte Mitte 38


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

did before the destruction. It now

functions as a community center

and contains a permanent exhibit,

titled “Open ye the Gates”, which

features pictures and documents on

Jewish history, and more specifi cally

the synagogue’s history, as well as

showcasing artifacts found during

the restoration. The upper fl oor is

used for temporary exhibits as well

as ceremonies and lectures. The

synagogue is still used for services,

though only seating eighty members

as it is no longer the main synagogue

of the Jewish community.

Reichstag

Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter

den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027.

Mon-Sun 8am-12am.

One of Berlin’s most striking

landmarks, the Reichstag, which

today houses the German parliament,

has undoubtedly played a pivotal role

in Berlin’s history and is defi nitely

worth a visit. The original imposing

neoclassical facade is contrasted

with a striking glass cupola supported

by a soaring mirrored column, which

offers stunning 360-degree views

across the city.

The Reichstag was built in the late

19th century as a parliamentary

offi ce, but in reality had little purpose

under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I.

In 1918 the Weimar Republic was

declared here from a window by

Philip Scheidemann and for the

next 15 years it controlled the fi rst

democratic body in Germany. The

Reichstag fi re in 1933 however gave

Hitler the perfect opportunity to

exercise an emergency degree, thus

effectively allowing him dictatorial

power over the country.

At the end of World War II the

Reichstag was symbolic of the

Allied victory, when Russian soldiers

positioned the Soviet fl ag on the

roof. The building was then left

mainly unoccupied until the fall

of the wall in 1990, when the

government of a reunifi ed Germany

fi nally decided to resurrect it as its

new parliament. Following extensive

remodeling under plans from British

architect Sir Norman Foster, it once

again provides a cornerstone of

the Regierungsviertel (government

quarter) in Berlin.

Queues are expected, arrive very

early or late in the day to avoid

disappointment. Tours in English

offered on Tuesdays (outside of

parliamentary sessions), book in

advance.

B u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m

(Museum of Letters)

w w w. b u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m . d e .

Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn:

Spittelmarkt. Tel: +49 1 774 201 587.

View by appointment only.

If you are interested in letterforms,

Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit.

The museum is made up of two rooms

of large-scale type examples, mostly

interesting signage from buildings.

The space is small, but there is still

plenty to look at. They have a good

variety of different type styles, from

modern san serifs to black letter.

It is great to see attention brought

to an area of design which is often

39 Mitte Mitte 40


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Tacheles

www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr.

54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr.

Tel: +49 302 826 185.

Originally created as a non-profi t

organisation, a vision that it still

retains to this day, Tacheles is

currently a key centre

for art creation and

exhibition near the

centre of Berlin.

Not to be confused

with the separate

collection of bars,

commonly referred to

as Studio 54, that are

scattered behind and

in the lower section

of the building, it

aims to focus on the

creative processes

behind art and tries

to do away with the

organisational ties

that offi cial museums

hold. Housed in an old

department department store, the the building has a

strong appeal with graffi ti adorning

every visible space, and all sorts of

characters roaming freely within.

As a result of its volatile history and

unique atmosphere it holds a strong

attraction for tourists, especially

backpackers, as well as the artists

from all over the world that head

there to work and live.

The Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles

was built at the beginning of the 20th

century as a large enclosed space for

small businesses, before becoming

a department store, and has since

served many purposes including

housing an SS offi ce.

The building was

damaged during the

Second World War

and only occasionally

used throughout the

Cold War. The section

that stands today is

just a small part of

the original building.

In 1990, shortly

after the collapse

of the wall and two

months before the

building was due to

be demolished, an

artists’ initiative

group called Tacheles,

which translates as

plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied

the building. From then on the future

of the building, and the non-profi t

organisation housed within, has been

far from certain. A lease was agreed

with the current owners, with a token

rent of €0.50 paid each month. This

lease has recently expired however,

and with the property owner’s bank

seeking administration rights, it is

more uncertain than ever before as

to the future of this unique cultural

site. Problems are also had with the

various bars, also on site, which all

originally had leases agreed with

the Tacheles organisation. Currently

only one bar continues to pay rent

and this causes a large amount of

tension.

Despite the ongoing legal wrangling

and the internal problems it has,

Tacheles still has plans and high

hopes for the future. These include

the creation of a foundation to

support non-profi t cultural projects;

the formation of a limited company

to outsource economic activities;

the creation of a sculpture park

on the roof and the expansion of

brand marketing to gain revenue for

cultural projects.

Tacheles is key to retaining the

spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for

art’s sake’ attitude brought about

in its formation almost 20 years

ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable

position to take, and arguably the

cornerstone that makes Tacheles

such an attraction today, it is also

an aspect that causes it to struggle

in a modern world dominated

by profi table organisations and

establishments with a heavilyrefi

ned corporate image. Despite

this though, and the uncertain future

ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the

original aims of the organisation into

the future and create an artistic

legacy for generations to come.

Mitte 41 Mitte 42


Arts & Culture Food & Drink

Hackesche Höfe

Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn:

Hackesche Markt.

The ivy grows up the walls, framing

the windows and even trying to

creep into them. One courtyard has

a children’s play area, another has a

small fountain.

A newly refurbished complex

of buildings that run from

Oranienburgerstrasse and

Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse

is what makes up the 20th century

Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard)

complex.

Originally designed by Kurt Berendt

and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe

was damaged during the war, but

has since been restored to a place of

many means.

Although the buildings above are

offi ces and apartments, the nine

interconnecting courtyards are fi lled

with bars, restaurants, boutiques and

even its own theatre. The courtyards

are beautiful and green, transporting

you away from the hustle and bustle

of the city.

Designer shops sport trendy clothes,

quirky ornaments and arty books.

The Ampelman store is hidden in one

of the courtyards where you can buy

merchandise with the little green

‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men.

In a city developing so fast, and new

concrete structures appearing daily,

it’s nice to have a hidden piece of

natural beauty in the city.

Berlin’s Street Food

Berlin is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. In fact, it may be the best

part of Berlin for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers

can fi nd stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst.

In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese takeout

may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and

fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.

Berlin loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry

powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the

sauce if it’s not to your taste.

Chips are found on many a street corner as well. Besides the usual dipping

sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a

little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry

to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location

to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger

Strasse across from Studio 54.

Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in the numerous Berlin

bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to

eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up

great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are

also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight in these establishments

are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no more than €2 for either

a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large

sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo.

While Berlin can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and

shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though

it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great

setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and

then burn them away.

43 Mitte Mitte 44


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Zur Letzten Instanz

www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse,

Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12pm-1am.

From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are

immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll

fi nd yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented

the Zur Letzten Instanz. His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they

squirm to fi nd a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been

designed to fi t the Lilliputian emperor.

Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery

stands as Berlin’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621.

The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched

charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet

reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booze ups.

The food is typical Berlin style: Pickled pigs knuckles, bloodwurst, red cabbage

and dumplings. But the fl agship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful

roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almost impossible

to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore

the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone

bisecting the impossibly tender fl esh. A must have for meat lovers.

A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16.

Theodor Tucher

www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/.

Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den

Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon-

Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25

This gem could easily be shrugged

off, taken for another overpriced,

posh, tourist trap. However Theodor

Tucher, tucked away in the right

hand corner of Pariser

Platz under the

looming shadow of the

Brandenburger Tor,

offers so much more

than good, if a little

pricey, fare.

The dining area is

quite large, both

inside and outside

and it is possible to

choose a seat with an

armrest, looking out

over the square for an

afternoon of drinking

and people watching.

The highlight of Theodor Tucher is

their Lunch-special trio, changing

daily to fi t the mood of the chef.

The small plates range from chicken

and potatoes with mustard sauce to

a goat risotto. Included in the special

price of €13.90, a dessert also comes

at the end of the meal.

Those looking for something else

will fi nd it hard to choose between

a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic,

fresh salads topped with spiced nuts

and fried pita bread, hearty meatand-potato

stews or freshly dressed

baguettes, just to name a few. The

desserts will also surely tantalize

the diner with plates such as mousse

of rose petals with chocolate

medallions and

mango salad. There is

even something new

to discover with their

fresh selection of

unique drinks such as

strawberry punch and

red-currant spritzer,

crisp juices that come

in a jug, rather than a

single glass.

After a delicious

meal in this small

café, the diner can

head upstairs to the

literary house, a

loft with hardwood

fl oors, walls lined with old books and

old Victorian style furniture. This

upstairs haven is nearly soundproof,

blocking out the clamor of the other

diners below, leaving the guest in a

relaxed stupor for however long they

would like to visit after their meal.

Mitte 45 Mitte 46


Nightlife Nightlife

Strand Bar Mitte

www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße

1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.

Mon-Sun 10am-late.

Strand Bar Mitte is well known for

having started the urban beach bar

trend, for which Berlin is now famous.

This unique bar sits alongside the

River Spree, overlooking Museum

Island. Connected to the theatre

next door, it is a fantastic place to sit

and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable

prices. Lounge in the comfy deck

chairs by the river and watch the

world go by, or try your hand at salsa

on the dance fl oor.

Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is

a delightfully relaxed environment

which is frequented by all ages.

Watch out for the setting sun tinting

the façade of the Bodemuseum

across the river; it is particularly

beautiful. The fairy lights, urban

beach and deck-chairs all add to

the holiday atmosphere, while the

pizzeria by the bar makes for great

mid-evening snacks. If you want a

low-key alfresco evening, then look

no further.

Bang Bang

www.bangbang-club.de. Neue

Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher

Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price:

€5-10.

Her fangs tore into

the body of a raw

whole pineapple,

the juice causing

red lipstick to drip

down her chin

and pool onto the

stage. Dressed in

burlesque, she

reared her head

back and spit the

tropical pulp into

faces of a screaming

crowd pumping

fi sts of devil horns.

Bleeding eardrums pressed against

speakers as the tongue of this rock

goddess slipped pieces of the luscious

fruit between audience members’

drooling lips.

If you’ve been searching for an

intense nightlife scene of live music,

tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale,

then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang

Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous

tracks of the Hackescher Markt

S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall

is a hotspot for colourful characters

that will guarantee an interesting

and usually entertaining night.

The dress code varies from drag and

burlesque to teenagers sporting a

casual attire of shorts and T-shirts.

The music as well is diverse with

DJs spinning 60s

pop hits, indie

tracks, and even

the heavy riffs of

Black Sabbath and

Rage Against the

Machine. The bar

unfortunately is

not cheap, beer

runs €3 for .33L

and cocktails are

€6-7.

Berlin’s nightlife

typically begins

quite late, in fact

most clubs are not in full swing until

well after midnight. So if you decide

to show up at the Bang Bang around

11pm, make sure that you have

the energy to exercise your dance

skills and head-banging fury to the

early hours of the morning. Visit the

website to see the event lineup and

choose the night that best suits your

interests.

47 Mitte Mitte 48


Prenzlauer Berg Information

Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the

most picturesque areas in Berlin.

The area is dominated by wide open

boulevards and many of its buildings

are now occupied by übercool cafes,

shops and restaurants. As a result

the area has undergone a process

of gentrifi cation since reunifi cation

with many of the buildings renovated

after a period of neglect under the

East German government.

Prenzlauer Berg is known for having

a high proportion of young families;

attracting British and American

immigrants, who are drawn by the

area’s continuing reputation for

art; and for students. Only a few

old buildings give a reminder of the

area’s past. Created in the latter

half of the 19th century under the

plans of James Hobrecht, it was

initially intended to be a workingclass

district. After a while the area

became known for punks and then,

having survived much of the post-war

rebuilding, it subsequently became

a hotspot for students, intellectuals

and artists under the GDR. A place

for alternative forms of culture was

established and as a consequence it

was a place where resistance could

be found.

49 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 50


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturbrauerei

w w w. k u l t u r b r a u e r e i - b e r l i n .

de Schonhauser Allee 36.

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe.

Tel: +49 3044 35 260.

Once a Schultheiss brewery, Berlin’s

Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate

venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts

and markets. The artistic nerve

centre of the creative city includes

an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and

Cigar bar and even a cooking school

for experimental culinary lovers. Why

not head to SODA Club for €4 Salsa

classes every Thursday and Sunday

before practicing your moves at the

evening Salsa party? Or for a unique

fortnightly shopping experience,

visit The White Market for locally

made clothing and accessories from

the likes of Barbara Viktor and

Friederike Porscha.

Jüdischer Friedhof

Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn:

Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33.

Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm.

Along a nondescript road lies a

poignant place of remembrance.

The Jüdischer Friedhof is Berlin’s

oldest Jewish cemetery and, like

any cemetery, there is something

of a sombre air upon entering. This

is perhaps even more signifi cant in

Berlin when considering the context

of history. Unlike other Jewish

cemeteries in Berlin it survived the

wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless

damage was still done in 1988 when

it was attacked by East German neo-

Nazis with fallen tombstones providing

the evidence. Much remains though

and the canopy of trees provides a

fi tting resting place. Indeed nature is

a key theme when visiting, as moss

and ivy are now beginning to wrap

themselves around the weathered

tomb stones. The rows of tomb

stones provide a sense of order but

this is broken by the many small

paths that criss-cross the cemetery

and provide a more natural feel. As a

consequence small corners can easily

be found, especially at the end of

the cemetery, allowing that poignant

moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer

and artist Max Liebermann.

Kollwitzplatz

U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz

Infl uenced by the designs of Reinhold

Linger, Kollwitzplatz is great for any

number of activities. Some may be

inclined to sunbathe, while others

may want to practice their tabletennis

skills, or simply relax with

friends. Alternatively, once past the

trees that encircle the plaz, the

clearing provides a perfect spot for

that refl ective moment or a chance

to simply admire the ornate buildings

that are a feature of the area.

The platz also includes a great

playground, and despite its closed

surroundings, it is still possible to hear

the bustle of various eateries which

surround the platz and provide the

chance for pleasant refreshment. The

platz itself is named after the famous

artist who lived in the area, Katty

Kollwitz, and whose statue watches

over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it

is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’

own work. Indeed the presence of a

work that conveys such sombreness

and refl ection is a theme that could

describe the whole platz.

51 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 52


Arts & Culture

Volkspark Weinberg

Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler

Platz and Fehbelliner Str. U-Bahn:

Rosenthaler Platz.

Don’t let fi nances get in the way of

fun! There are many activities in

Berlin that are free of charge. Not

least of these are the parks and

playgrounds scattered about the city.

For those who are mature enough to

admit they still enjoy a good tire

swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark

Weinberg will provide an enjoyable

cost-free evening. During the day

this park is dominated by parents

and their children, as nightfalls this

place is left empty for the bigger

cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue

pyramids spurting water, and a

behemoth of a jungle gym, even the

most grown-up of people will feel the

urge to summon their inner child. The

shallow wading pool provides a nice

place to cool your feet, or your bum

for that matter after receiving slideburns

over on the play structures.

Even if you stop by in the daytime

and a younger crowd occupies the

games equipment, there are still

two cafes, the lily pond, and the

rose garden to enjoy. Merely sitting

on a bench listening to the church

bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a

relaxing experience. So if your wallet

is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to

let the kid within you out!

Who Killed Bambi?

w w w. w h o k i l l e d b a m b i . o r g

Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel:

+49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Monsat

12pm – 8pm

Note: this clothes store has nothing

to do with Disney. Offering a

generous selection of alternative

attire for both men and women, Who

Killed Bambi is the place to go for

fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a

range of street-wear labels from the

locally produced Made in Paradise

to European favourite Desigual,

Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the

largest of three in Berlin. Browse the

racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for

that attention-grabbing purchase,

or lust after the unique Who Killed

Bambi bowling bags.

A little something extra ...

Photobooths

Shopping

Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2.

Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you

four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all

scattered around Berlin. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw

Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them by. But keep your eye

keen - for only 2€ fun memories can be captured (and can also be used

to make your friends at home jealous!)

53 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 54


Shopping Shopping

Interview with Karin Nieto,

Organiser of The White

Market.

T h e W h i t e M a r k e t . c o m .

KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee

36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm

– 7pm. Log on to the website for

the next The White

Market event.

The White Market is

a new fashion event

based in the diverse

shopping area of

Prenzlauer Berg.

Locals and tourists

alike visit the chic,

outdoor market for

a taste of original

Berlin craftsmanship

at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural

hub.

Having hosted only four events

of its kind so far, organiser Karen

Nieto speaks to us about this unique

project and the exciting prospects

for The White Market.

When did you fi rst come up with

the idea for The White Market and

what made you decide to pursue

this venture?

The idea for the White Market was

conceived in 2008, during one of

those shopping ruts everyone gets

into sometimes.

Berlin is a creative city, bustling with

talented designers, but shopping

can be inconvenient and uninspiring

sometimes. Since moving here two

years ago, we’ve been fl ying every

season to New York

or Paris to get our

fashion fi x. In these

cities, shopping

more than just a

means to an end,

it’s an experience.

We recognized

Berlin already had

all the elements:

talented designers,

good quality

c r a f t s m a n s h i p ,

endless sources of inspiration, etc.

All we had to do was connect the

elements. Our concept was simple:

bring the best designers under one

roof (or umbrella in our case) and

present their collections in a pretty

white package – and voila, the White

Market shopping experience was

born.

How did you come up with the name

‘The White Market’?

We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’

because that’s how we visualized the

beginning: outdoor summer shopping

under rows of white canopies. Plus,

the name suits the philosophy of

the market: all products are unique

and hand-made; the exact opposite

of what you might fi nd in a black

market.

How do you select the designers that

exhibit at The White Market, and

how many do you choose to show at

any one event?

Each designer must submit images

of their collections, and we review

them based on the following criteria:

original design, craftsmanship, and

small production runs. We show

approximately 40 designers per

market, and we make sure there is

an equal number between clothing

and accessory designers.

What items can we fi nd on sale at

The White Market and is there an

average price range?

The White Market only exhibits

handmade items from independent

designers with non mass-produced

collections. In order to remain

true to the initial concept of the

White Market, it is exclusively a

fashion market selling clothing and

accessories. The price range is very

broad starting at ten euros goingup

to 200 euros.

Describe your typical ‘The White

Market’ customer.

The White Market attracts people

from all walks of life who have

one thing in common: an eye for

fashion. Tourists come in droves

and Berlin locals are equally excited

by the prospect of a new shopping

experience to discover. You are

located at KulturBrauerei in the

popular shopping area of Prenzlauer

Berg. How did you decide on the area

in which The White Market is held,

and how important do you think this

is to the project’s success?

Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled

out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not

overly-touristy like other districts

in Berlin. The neighbourhood has

a perfect blend of a young creative

set that keeps the area exciting and

inspiring and young families with

a more disposable income keep it

prosperous. The KulturBrauerei is

incredibly charming, and it’s a Berlin

landmark. The fact that everyone

knows it, means we don’t have to

give directions and the location gave

the market a sense of establishment

from the get go.

Are you a designer yourself, and if so

do you exhibit any of your items at

The White Market?

55 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 56


Shopping Shopping

Yes, I’m an architect and clothing

designer. I’m launching a line

of jewellery to sell at the White

Market – I just need to fi nd time to

make it!

What do you think sets Berlin apart

from the rest of the world in terms

of fashion and style?

Berlin’s unique history plays an

integral role in local fashion.

Berliners take the term ‘eighties or

nineties throwback’ to a new extrem

e that stretches into each fi bre of its

aesthetic culture from furniture to

architecture and clothing. Berlin’s

endless array of second hand shops

and various fl ea markets caters to

ones every nostalgic whim. The White

Market has been embraced because

though it exclusively presents is new

things, it encourages home-grown

individuality and creativity: integral

facets of Berlin fashion.

Where do you see The White Market

fi ve years from now?

As a destination for trend forecasters

and shopaholics alike –a Berlin fashion

establishment. We have already

received international interest in

the White Market which would be

the natural next step for us to take

for the market

to grow organically. In addition, the

possibility of a White Market label is

also on the cards. The label would

present collections of selected

market designers. The designers

would change along with the seasons

and the White Market label would

serve, like the market, as a springboard

into the global world of

fashion.

Flohmarkt am Mauerpark

(Flea Market)

Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8

Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm

Prenzlauer Berg may not have

the alternative edge of areas like

Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but

the now affl uent area retains some

of its bohemian cool. This makes it

the perfect place for secondhand

shoppers who want to snap up

some of the residents’ castoffs. The

massive market on Bernauer Straße

is on every Sunday, and with plenty

of great food stalls and bars, it’s

easy to spend the whole day here.

Everything from household goods

to clothing, records, books and

bicycles can be found here. There’s

undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good

rummage through the cardboard

boxes should yield a worthwhile

reward. Prices start off pretty low,

but if not don’t be afraid to barter,

as there are plenty of bargains to be

had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap

as three euro, books from about 50

cents, and bicycles for about 30 to

50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure

to leave plenty of time to make your

way through the crowds.

57 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 58


Shopping Shopping

Tausche

www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8.

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49

30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon-

Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm.

Tausche is no ordinary bag shop.

This contemporary store sells Berlinmade,

multi-functional, multifaceted

messenger bags which are

unique in their ability to alter both

purpose and appearance. Tausche

bags are available in eight different

sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and

come with two exchangeable cover

fl aps upon purchase. Just unzip

the front and transform the bag’s

aesthetic in one swift movement

with another cover. Visit the

exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer

Berg and browse through the

collection of covers decorating the

shop’s interior in order to customise

your chosen style. From pretty fl orals,

to iconic local images like the Berlin

TV tower, the range of designs is

seemingly endless. Team these with

an additional inset in black or orange

to accommodate for individual,

practical needs. The cushioned

Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a

15” laptop, while the Rabenvater

offers space for baby food, nappies

and anything else the little one might

need. Insets start at €25 for a simple

separator, with the more expensive

laptop compartment costing €55.

Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz

U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday

9am – 5pm

Arkonaplatz is a smaller market,

with higher quality goods and prices

to match. The focus is on vintage

and retro clothes and household

goods, with a particularly impressive

selection of sunglasses. The market is

also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with

plenty of boxes fi lled with records.

There is also a great collection

of interesting old record players.

Afterwards, you can relax in the

pretty little park next door, which is

and is a perfect spot for a picnic or

sunbathing in the summer.

Pigasus Poster Gallery

www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse

62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz.

Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat

2pm-7pm

A gallery that is a little bit different,

Pigasus offers a broad range of

posters for sale. Among them

are designs that were originally

printed for fi lm, theatre, opera and

exhibitions. There are both vintage

and more contemporary posters,

and those on show are continually

changing. Prices range from €15, to

over €200 for rarer pieces. There

is also a good selection of CDs by

Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists

to buy.

Go downstairs and there is a small

but substantial enough changing

exhibition, focusing on the work

of one particular artist or theme.

A movement known as the Polish

Poster School emerged in the 50s,

the main protagonist being Henryk

Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs

tend to have a handmade feel, even

the more modern ones, and often

contain a political statement. Browse

and enjoy at your own leisure.

Supaife Kiosk

Raumerstr. 40, 10437 Berlin, Phone:

44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife.

de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed,

U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz

Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone

interested in street art or graphic

design. This store sells both books on

the subjects as well as small-edition

prints and artists books. Silk-screened

t-shirts, postcards and stickers round

out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also

serves as a gallery for art exhibitions,

with the openings often featuring

live music. With a diverse collection

of various kinds of graphic arts, this

store is the perfect place to pick up

an affordable work of art.

59 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 60


Shopping Shopping

Sentimental Journey

Husemannstr. 5, 10435 Berlin, Phone:

030/44328664, Email: journey@

arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun.

closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.

With the funky sequined dresses

hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis

above the door, you know you are

in for a real vintage treat when you

enter Sentimental Journey. Inside,

clothing, shoes and hats from the early

20th century until the present await.

Sentimental Journeys is everything a

vintage shop should be, with crowded

racks of dresses, scary mannequin

heads with ostentatious hats, and

even a white and black checked

fl oor. To top it all off, in one room

there is a shrine to Elvis, complete

with a piano and velvet stool, a

large cut out of The King himself,

and a ceramic band arranged on top

of the piano. Many treasures await

discovery in this store: collapsible top

hats, cocktail dresses, and even a hat

featuring a knitted grand piano made

by the owner herself. Although the

prices may be on the higher end (said

hat costing upwards of 100 euro),

it is still worth a look if just for the

feeling of nostalgia for a time when

you weren’t even around.

Stiefelkombinat

Eberswalder Str. 21/22, Tel: 51 05

12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.

and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed.

Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to

say the least. The experience begins

before even entering the premises,

as its contents spill out onto the

street, making it hard to miss.

Inside, shag rugs and furry stools

are used in abundance, providing

a suitably retro decor on which to

display the clothes. Shoes dominate

the secondhand merchandise. There

is a wide selection of both boots

and heels, which are all helpfully

organized by size with clearly marked

sections. Various choices abound,

ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go

boots. There is also a large collection

of vintage clothing, mostly from the

1960s through to the 1980s. Variety

abounds, with everything from

chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits

and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up

to the rafters, the shop can be a little

hard to take in fully and discover

that perfect fi nd. But when you

do, it is the result of an enjoyable

treasure hunt through the fashions of

yesteryear. Next door there is also

men’s clothing and shoes, as well as

furniture more likely to be spotted in

a 70s sci-fi fl ick. Prices here are not

cheap, but they are justifi ed on the

whole by the quality.

61 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 62


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Babel

K a s t a n i e n a l l e 3 3 ,

U-bahn: Eberswalder

Straße noon -

midnight

For a a kebab you won’t

regret the morning

after, Babel is the

place to go. Serving Serving

deliciously authentic

meals at the walletfriendly

price of of

just just three three Euro, this

makes the perfect perfect

spot to stop off off for

a quick bite between between

bars. Particularly

recommended are

the chicken schwarma

or grilled haloumi.

Sitting on the the terrace

outside is a good spot spot

to watch the the well-towell-todo hipster inhabitants

inhabitants

of the surrounding

area go preening and prancing about

their business. The restaurant itself

is run by a couple of genial Lebanese

guys and attracts a healthy mix of

homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and

boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered

is this place in fact that it has even

made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20

places to eat in Berlin.

Focacceria Naturale

Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder

Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12.

For a quick pit stop during shopping

ventures on Kastanienalle, this

ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great

alternative from the often meatheavy

Kebab and Currywurst stalls

so readily found in Berlin. With

toppings varying from spinach, ham,

tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats

cheese, and a sizeable slice costing

only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect

place for refuelling. What’s more,

the juice bar along the counter offers

similar variety. Freshly stocked from

the vibrant fruit and veg shop next

door, prices range from a pocketfriendly

two to four euro depending

on how much fruit you want thrown

in. All in all, the perfect place to take

a pause and plan your next shopping

venture.

Tabeyo

Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn:

Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402

At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince

on a pauper’s pocket. Offering

freshly made sushi with good quality

ingredients at the overtly generous

price of two euro for six rolls, it is

easy to see why this place has become

a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s

discerning residents.

W-Imbiss

www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee

49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302

0678 noon-midnight.

Best described as an Indian-Italian-

Californian fusion restaurant,

W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of

Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes

its name from the German ‘Imbiss’

meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo is

the notorious golden arches turned

upside down hinting that W-Imbiss

is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef,

Gordon W, dishes out everything from

naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas,

producing scrumptious, eccentric,

gastronomy in minutes. A tannoy

system declares your food is ready to

be collected from the postage stamp

sized kitchen. Choose to take away

or eat outside among large plastic

orange tables.

63 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 64

Fellas

www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder

Straße U-bahn: Schonhauser Allee.

Tel:46796314; 10 am- 1am.

If a big hearty salad is what you’re

looking for, then head to Fellas. With

enough greenery to last you a week

this dimly lit, wooden furnished

restaurant-come-bar is a great

place for private dinners or long lazy

lunches. Although fairly expensive,

you’re money will defi antly go a

long way. Order a Sportsfreund

salad and a mount of crispy leaves,

peppers, tomato, cucumber and

succulent chicken will arrive a short

while after (perhaps a little longer

than you may like). If a salad is not

what you’re after, soups, bagels

and ciabatta sandwiches are also

available for a more pocket friendly

price. There are also generous happy

hour(s) and limitless wifi .


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Hans Wurst Café

w w w . m y s p a c e . c o m /

hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr

2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse.

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel.

030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm-

12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4-

9, lunch specials from 12-3.

This vegan organic café is an

excellent alternative to those who

like unconventional menus. Its quaint

atmosphere and relaxing ambience

makes you feel welcome right from

the start. It is fi lled with antique

sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you

Lorbeth Feine Kost

Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn:

Eberswalder Straße

Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in

traditional German cuisine with a

contemporary twist. The café come

restaurant provides traditional foods

including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and

Schnitzel, brought into the 21st

century when mixed with usual

and exciting fl avours. Greeted by a

mishmash of tables and umbrellas

surrounded by leafy plants, you can

choose to eat indoors or out. Whether

stopping by for a full-blown dinner or

just tea and cake, the menu changes

daily so you will never get bored of

the delicious food. Fear not if your

German is not yet fl uent, the friendly

staff will help you with translation;

they will happily consult an online

to stay for as long as you please with

access to free wifi . Juxtaposed to the

antique furniture are the modern light

fi xtures, fresh fl owers on every table,

as well as the natural food choices.

All of the dishes contain variations

of tofu, including salads, burgers,

sandwiches, and stir fry. There are

various cakes and cookies for dessert.

Additionally, the cafe hosts several

parties a month introducing bands

from all over the globe.

German translator to decipher the

delectable German menu. Doggy

bags are available as is free WiFi.

The Bird

www.thebirdberlin.com. Am

Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser

Allee. Tel: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6

pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight

Two words: Meat heaven! Vegetarians

are advised to stay away from this

rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where

even the Ceasar salad has steak in

it. Serving the best burgers in Berlin,

devour a freshly ground Iowa steak

patty, sandwiched between a toasted

English muffi n served up with a crisp

salad and a side of homemade fries.

Its witty menu (which includes an

obituary to a once popular burger no

longer in production) will tempt you

with a wealth of toppings from blue

cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t

whet your appetite then try the

surprisingly cheaper option of steak

also accompanied with salad and

fries. Although cutlery is provided

for the steak, eating burgers with

your fi ngers is strongly advised!

No need to worry about the mess

though as kitchen roll accompanies

the condiments on every table

Nocti Vagus

www.noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker

Str. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder

Platz. Tel: +49 3 074 749 123.

Prices start from €49 including a

show, and Mondays are cheaper

with set menus starting from €29.

Treat yourself to a high quality

dinner in the dark in the original

dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus.

Prepare to awaken and revitalise

the only four senses you have left…

smells of the succulent food passing

by will waft up your nose, noises of

the anonymous patrons and blind

waiters will fi ll your ears as you

orientate yourself at your table by

touch, and fi nally when your food

arrives your taste buds will explode

with the culinary delights the chefs

have prepared especially for you.In

this restaurant you will experience

what it is like to be blind. You will

form judgements, based not on

appearance but, on how a person

speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is

not so easy when you’re blind and

you will have to call for an escort

to lead the way. Even pouring

your drinks in the dark may prove

diffi cult. Choose to eat with a

knife and fork, or just get messy

with your hands. Will you even fi nd

65 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 66


Food & Drink

your food and be able to tell what

it is without sight? The challenges

you’ll experience being blinded by

the dark will open your mind and

may change your preconceptions of

what you thought it was like to have

no vision.On

arrival you will

be welcomed

into the

restaurant bar

which is located

upstairs in the

light. Here

is where you

decide what

you would like

to eat. Ordering

c o u l d n ’ t

be simpler,

with three

set menu’s

incorporating

three courses

including a

v e g e t a r i a n

option and a

fourth tailored

surprise menu

for those feeling

a tad more daring. Once your order

is placed a waiter will lead you down

to the basement restaurant where

the excitement begins.If eating in

the dark does not sound enough of

an experience, this restaurant also

offers various shows to accompany

your meal. These shows include

various readers, singers, and actors

who take to the dark stage for your

entertainment. The timetable for

these events

is available on

the website

with dates for

n o n - G e r m a n

speaking tourists

pointed out.

Once you fi nish

your meal and

are welcomed

back into the

light, prepare

to be surprised

by what you

thought you ate

and what you

thought your

blind waiter

looked like.

Also make sure

you check your

shirt for debris;

you never

know what you

dropped down there in the dark!

Make a call and reserve your table

because this place can get busy,

then prepare for the unexpected.

Zur Rose

Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa-

Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler

platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am-

1am,

Sandwiched between a little row

of the many eateries found in

Rosenthaler

Platz, is

this bustling

hangout. Its

rustic style,

with antique

furnishings

found in

the back

and small

garden tables

squeezed in

the front,

makes a

p l e a s a n t

place to to sit sit back back and contemplate

a days sight seeing. The food comes

in generous portions and budget

friendly prices, where breakfasts

and lunches range from 3-5€, and

dinner plates including pastas and

salads from 5-9€. Make sure to

check out the “tap your own beer”

service, where you can help yourself

to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each).

Cocktails are also good (and strong),

and average around €5.

Erdbeer

Food & Drink

Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa-

Luxembourg Platz Open Summer

2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late

daily. No credit cards.

Erdbeer’s proximity to the array

of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz

and Rosenthaler Platz makes

it the perfect place to start an

evening. Its reputation for mouthwatering

and varied cocktails is well

deserved, and the extensive menu

only presents one problem: which

drink to choose! Be prepared to

splash out, as cocktail prices begin

aaround Seven Euro. However, for

the delicious drinks and intimate

atmosphere, it is money well spent.

During the week, an eclectic mix of

music is played in the background

at a fairly low level, offering guests

the rare chance to have an audible

conversation in such an environment.

Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get

guests revved up for the night ahead.

The candle-lit tables, pink décor and

mismatched chairs all add to the

charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a

low-key and relaxing venue, which also

serves a wide selection of beers and

non-alcoholic refreshments for noncocktail

drinkers. Well worth a visit.

67 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 68


Nightlife

White Trash

www.whitetrashfastfood.com

Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa-

Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668

Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from

6pm.

Dining at White Trash is a sure-fi re

way to induce a sensory overload.

This converted Chinese

restaurant, replete

with gaudy Oriental

fl ourishes and garnished

with bizarre bric-abrac,

serves up decent

American-style dishes

with incendiary titles

such as “The Marquee

de Fuck Burger”.

Wolfi ng this down

whilst being serenaded

by a thrash metal band

in what resembles a

schizophrenic bordello

provides a uniquely

entertaining experience. When

you’ve fi nished, or given up on, your

outrageously large portion, head

downstairs to dance off the calories

in the misnomer that is though if easily

offended. The Diamond Lounge, the

dingy basement club. Here the music

is loud and the acts vary from local

upcoming indie bands to occasional

internationally-known acts. As if all

this wasn’t enough, there’s also an

in-house tattoo parlour if you feel

like permanently marking your body

is the perfect accompaniment to a

meal. The service has been known to

be shoddy at times, and explicitly

rude at others. By all accounts, you’re

more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from

your waiter than “Bon appetit!”

However, go in expecting something

a little different from your average

culinary experience and you’ll be

pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to

steer clear

Dr Pong

Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00late

Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1,

M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late,

Hidden away on a busy street in

Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but

dim lighting and occasional cheers to

suggest it being open for business, is

a cheap and a great way to spend an

evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a

5€ deposit is needed) and head to the

sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged

room whose focal point is a large ping

pong table. The rules are simple:

every time a new round starts, join

the rotating circle of competitors and

take turns in hitting the ball back to

each other. If you miss a shot, join

the many who simply come along to

watch. Hit every shot and you will

fi nd yourself in the fi ve-round-fi nale

where although discreet, the winning

title will gain you respect from

Berlin’s tabletennismegafans.

Rounds

can start with

as little as 3

to as many as

30 players, so

be confi dent

to ensure you

get a swing in.

Best to come

Nightlife

in smaller groups, as large swathes

of tourists can irritate the loyal

punters. It empties out after awhile,

so hold on if you’re fi nding it a bit

overwhelming. Chessboards are also

available if table tennis isn’t your

thing.

Rosengarten

www.rosengarten-berlin.de. Weinbergsweg

13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler

Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun

1pm – 12pm.

Rosengarten is an excellent place

to rest your feet with a cool drink

after a day’s sightseeing or shopping.

Beautifully situated by the

eponymous rose garden in Volkspark

Weinberg, the atmosphere

is exceptionally laid back. Striped

deckchairs are set out next to the

small outdoor bar where super

friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft

drinks and cake. A great program of

events is on

offer, such as

fi lm screenings

and live

music. On

Wednesdays

at 7pm there

are even

hula-hoop

workshops.

69 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 70


Accommodation Accommodation

Alkatraz

w w w. a l c a t r a z - b a c k p a c k e r.

de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2

Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30

48496815

S 40, D 25, T 22

4 bedroom dorm 18

8 bedroom dorm 16

Apartments (4 people) 106, (5

people) 116, (6 people) 126

Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand

This urban, hip hostel located on

the busy street of Schönhauser Allee

stands out from the rest. With its

unique exterior of graffi ti, it’s hard

to walk past without being intrigued

by what lies within. You can fi nd

all kinds of travellers residing here

from students, backpackers, walkins

and occasionally families. The

small intimate courtyard is an ideal

place to sit back and unwind. The

common area with TV, table football,

books and leafl ets galore make sure

you will be kept busy. There is a

lobby where computers are located

with free internet access (you can

also access the internet with your

own notebook via wi-fi ). The selfservice

kitchen/lounge is bright and

colourful and has a relaxed vibe.

East Seven Hostel

www.eastseven.de. Schwedter

Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz.

Tel: 936 22 240

Dorm: 17

S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78

Linen: 3

Towels: 1euro

Visa and Mastercard accepted (small

fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover

costs)

Situated just north of Berlin’s

über-hip Mitte district, this small,

comfortable hostel offers travellers

a wide range of clean, high quality

affordable accommodation. With

spacious bathrooms and hot showers

on every fl oor, what more could

a budding traveller ask for. Not to

mention being surrounded by cafes,

restaurants, nightlife and of course

lots of shops. A trip to the famous

Mauer Park fl eamarket on Sunday is

a must. Or relax in the cosy garden

house/barbeque area among other

guests. The friendly and welcoming

staff are always on hand 24/7 with

tips and tricks to help you make the

most of your time in the city. The

hostel offers a range of services

including: laundry service, free

lockers in rooms, free luggage

storage, free maps and free wi-fi .

The East Seven Berlin hostel fosters a

relaxed atmosphere all year round.

Lette’m Sleep

www.backpackers.de. Lettestraße

7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße.

Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49

(0)30 44733625

7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€,

5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€,

3 bed dorms 21€

Twin room: 49€

Apartment: 69€/room a night for

two people

Linen: Included no charge

Towels: 70cent

“Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make

you eat your passport!” – is the note

you will fi nd in the kitchen of this

laidback hostel. The bright

orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep

fi t in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s

vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel

hosts a mixture of nationalities

all year round; backpackers from

Finland, a family from Spain, an

American biker… you’ll fi nd them

here. With its no curfew policy

travellers may come and go as they

please. The little common room has

everything you could need including

free internet, tea, coffee, and a

great DVD collection. This hostel has

the vibe of Berlin built in. It’s downto-earth,

nonchalant cool.

71 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 72


Potsdamer Platz

& Tiergarten

Potsdamer Platz is Berlin’s newest

quarter. Showcasing architectural

gems such as the dramatic Sony

Centre, the square is dominated by

mainstream commercial success.

Providing three multiplex cinemas,

a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton,

Europe’s largest casino and a

multitude of non-descript bars

and restaurants, the development

of Potsdamer Platz has not been

without its critics. That being said,

the bustling centre continues to

attract tourists and locals alike.

Whether it is for the impressive

architecture, the selection of

museums, events such as the Berlin

Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx),

or simply as a means to witness the

enormous renewal of the square,

there is no doubting that this is one

of Berlin’s busiest areas.

It could be said that Potsdamer

Platz is a version of its former self.

In the early 20th Century the square

was one of Europe’s biggest traffi c

centres that defi ned Berlin and it is

even said to have housed Europe’s

fi rst electric traffi c lights. While a

replica of the lights can now be seen

as soon as you step off the S-Bahn,

little else exists that acknowledges

the history of the area.

During WW2, much of Potsdamer

Information

Platz turned to rubble, and when

the Berlin Wall was erected straight

through the heart of the square in

1961, all transport connections were

cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost

town.

Situated close to Potsdamer Platz

is Berlin’s answer to Hyde Park:

Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a

hunting ground in the 17th Century,

today Tiergarten is a popular spot

for relaxing in the sun after a day

of cultural activity. Escape from the

city in the green open space or visit

Berlin’s zoo situated on the outskirts.

73 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 74


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturforum

Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn:

U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz

The Kulturforum is a complex of

some of Berlin’s main galleries

and museums. It was planned out

post World War Two, after several

important cultural institutions

were cut off from West Berlin,

and build on a site that had been

cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The

Neue Nationalgalerie was built

fi rst in 1968, at a time when the

Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel

was separated by the wall on the

Eastern side of the city. It now

contains an unmissable collection

of 20th century art, even if the

permanent collection often gives

way to (also excellent) temporary

exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie

(Painting Gallery) is also world-

Bargain time...

class, with its collection of European Old

Master paintings. Joining this building

are also the Kunstgewerbemuseum

(Museum of Decorative Art), the

Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints

and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek

(Art Library). The Philharmonie is

home to the Berlin Philharmonic

Orchestra, and is an astounding

golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped

masterpiece of a building designed by

Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation

for superb acoustics. Next door, the

Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small

museum of musical instruments from

the sixteenth century on, with guides

giving performances on Saturdays at

11am. And if all that wasn’t enough,

the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is

also here, another Scharoun building

(haunted by angels in the classic Berlinbased

fi lm Wings of Desire) and has a

great selection of books in English.

Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museums at the

kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes

the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum

of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings),

Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-Museum

(Musical Instruments Museum).

Gemäldergalerie

Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266

2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm

Thur. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz

The Gemäldergalerie, part of the

Kulturforum, is impressive to say the

least. This picture gallery houses

European works spanning the 13th

through the 18th centuries. Pieces

by masters such as Jan van Eyck,

Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt,

Vermeer and Dürer are the crown

jewels in an already stunning

collection. Aside from the 1500

works housed here, the other half of

the collection remains in the Bode

Museum in Mitte. The museum itself

consists of a large central hall fl anked

by series of galleries on either side.

Advance through history as you move

through the museum, with the newest

works at the back. Due to the sheer

number of works, it would be advisable

to spare a couple of hours to see the

whole collection. If you don’t have

that much time to spare, then choose

a couple centuries or artists to see for

a shorter, less intensive visit.

75 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 76


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Neue-national Gallerie

www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.

Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S-

Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30

266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am-

6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat

10am-8pm. Price: €5-10.

Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in

itself not to be missed. Designed by

Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts

special temporary exhibitions that

can last for a couple of years as well

as works of classical Modernism and

1960-70s art work. The permanent

exhibition is located in the lower

part of the gallery.

The temporary collections focus

on representations of Cubism,

Expressionism, Surrealism and the

Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume

(Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung

Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition

is running up until November 2009.

The Bilderträume is an unmissable

opportunity to view possibly the

most private collection in Berlin.

What makes this exhibition so unique

is the collection is solely based on

two distinctive styles; Surrealism

and Abstract Expressionism. The art

of Surrealism is a style that was fi rst

developed from direct Surrealist

infl uences in New York following

WWII and is still recognised today.

This forms the core of the collection

while the second part of the collection

focuses on the early works of Abstract

Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner

Pietzsch collection began over 40

years ago and comprises of over 180

artistic pieces by some of the world’s

most infl uential artists, such as Max

Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning.

Walking around this remarkable gallery

are amazing pieces of art that go from

stunning to bizarre, fantastical to

grotesque. What’s more the artists’

surreal and abstract styles are

perfectly presented throughout the

exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity

and wonder around each corner.

The exhibition illustrates the

development of abstract expressionism

and surrealism and it is truly amazing

how each artist individually conveys

this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can

be found on the website.

Museum fur Film und

Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum)

www.deutsche-kinemathek.de.

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel:

+49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am-

6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50

concession

A treasure to fi lm enthusiasts and

history nuts alike, this museum Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the

focuses on the last 100 years of permanent exhibition is a temporary

German fi lm history. A particular “Moments in Time 1989/1990” display.

emphasis is placed on the golden Following the fall of the Berlin wall

era, when Berlin came close to and aware that their protest could

matching those of Hollywood. no longer be stopped, Berliners

Upon entering, be sure to grab the

free audio guide. Take a wander

through the permanent exhibition.

Images invert and skew and refl ect

as mirrors and irregular walls almost

convey a walk within the confi nes

of the lens of a camera. Black

and white fi lms are beautifully

juxtaposed against the modern

interior decor and each exhibit is

insightful and to the point. Presented

chronologically, classic fi lm fans will

relish behind-the-scenes glimpses

of fi lms including “Das Cabinet Des

Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis”

increasingly felt a desire to capture

events on fi lm. Taken by private

individuals in diverse and personal

ways, the presentation sheds some

additional light on the most important

period in post-war German history

in a colourful and insightful manner.

Leaving as much to the imagination as

objectively illustrating the events and

emotions felt at the time, the display

is a rare insight into the events of 1989

Berlin from the perspectives of directly

affected individuals set comparatively

against worldwide news reports issued

at the same time.

77 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 78


Arts & Culture

Zoologischer Garten

Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn -

Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30

25401- 0, info@zoo-berlin.deOpened

in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in

Germany and one of the largest

zoos in the world, with the widest

variety of species which doesn’t fail

to impress from the moment you

step through the gates. The park

itself is visually stunning with lush

green trees and intermittent water

features.

Even if you’re not interested

in the surrounding the sheer

range of species won’t leave you

disappointed. With around 14,000

animals, there is plenty to see and a

lot of ground to cover. Give yourself

plenty of time for the visit as it is

very easy to spend the best part of the

day there, and comfortable footwear

is defi nitely recommended. There are

plenty of places to get a drink or snack

within the park and also there is a large

restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie,

located at the heart of the zoo.

One of the best times of day to see

the animals is at feeding time and

the times are posted on signs at the

enclosures. Unfortunately there are

no free maps and information leafl ets,

although there is a map in the back of

the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which

will set you back €4.

If you don’t want to shell out for a

book there are maps located at regular

intervals around the zoo and it is fairly

easy to navigate or you can download

a plan of the zoo from their website.

Kunst und Trödel Märkte

www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de.

Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026

550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat-

Sun 10am-5pm

The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring

Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt

are bustling, busy Berlin weekend

markets that offer an interesting

and distinctive experience. They

boast unique artifacts and clothing

and there are great bargains to be

had, especially if you’re ready to

haggle.

At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the

muddle of second-hand and vintage

clothing and jewellery, antique

furniture and silverware, old

paintings, collector’s coins and used

records and books, there is sure

to be something that catches your

eye.

The Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt

is located just through the

Charlottenburg Gate and across

the Landswehrkanal from the

Trödelmarkt. Here local artists and

designers display and sell their work

including jewellery, wooden toys,

ceramics, paintings and clothing.

The selection ranges from gaudy to

tasteful but all items are certainly

original.

Arts & Culture

Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz

www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de

Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn:

Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 3025 59270.

Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.

For the mainstream shopping

experience, head to Arkaden. Situated

in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer

Platz, this three-storey complex

epitomises what this oncehistoric

site now has to offer. The commercial

shopping mall houses European fashion

favourites such as Mango, H&M and

Zara as well as Tommy Hilfi ger and

Swarovski for the high-end shoppers.

While including internationally

renowned stores and commonplace

establishments like McDonalds and

Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a

moderate selection of German gems.

Take a look in Bree for a selection

of Berlin-made leather handbags or

try Sergio Engel for locally produced

jewellery.

79 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 80


Arts & Culture

Rowing in the Tiergarten

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn:

Tiergarten/Zoological.

25 44 930.

Tel:30

The lake in the Tiergarten is the

perfect place to relax. On the

grassy shores of Neuer See are

relaxing deck chairs where you

can take a nap, or enjoy a beer

from the nearby beer garden

(see page). For those looking

for a bit of fun, you can also

rent rowboats and go exploring.

On jumping into the boats, it

doesn’t seem like you have far

to go. Although the late isn’t

huge, there are many little

passageways that adventurers

can paddle through and explore.

Watch out for fi sh, ducks, and

the rare turtle. The odd collision

with another boat is always a

possibility. Prices for the boats

start at €5 for 30minutes and

€10 for 60minutes. Up to fi ve

people can fi t in the boat and

life vests are provided if needed.

The rental is inexpensive for

budgeting travellers who have

a few friends to share the boat

with.

Cafe an Neuen See

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/

Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:

€5-15.

Charm and atmosphere surround

this quaint little beer garden

nestled in the north-west corner of

the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending

in with the surrounding green areas

the English Garden remains one

of the hidden gems in the massive

park. This particular stop can prove

a bit challenging to fi nd due to its

size and unpretentious demeanour,

however a little navigating and

exploring will yield a highly enjoyable

experience.

Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof

cottage, it’s not diffi cult to see why

the beer garden has been granted its

moniker. Echoing scenes of English

countryside, this establishment

provides a well needed break from

the hustle and bustle of Berlin

outside the Tiergarten boundaries.

Look for the English Garden on a

weekday and you could easily miss it.

Look for it on a weekend, and all you

need to do is follow the jazz music.

Every weekend the English Garden

is host to a slew of jazz ensembles

which draw a large crowd to the

otherwise calm watering hole.

Food & Drink

Music played until sunset combined

with the beautiful urroundings makes

this place an inevitable stop on a

weekend Tiergarten stroll.

Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2

to €4. Food starts from €4 with their

menu (although slightly limited in

hot foods) provides an extensive icecream

and milkshake list. On the

weekends, during jazz concerts the

English Garden also opens additional

food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish

and other world cuisines.

English Garden

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/

Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:

€5-15.

Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer

garden tops the list. Cold beer, good

food and a magical atmosphere awaits

your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden

in the trees, you can rent boats and

row around the lake or take over some

deckchairs on the grass.

Dinner will set you back around 10€.

Grab eine Maß (a pint of beer) and

fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of fi nely

ground corned beef, pork and onions)

with potato salad, snuggle onto one of

the communal tables – don’t be shy,

and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere

with some friends.

81 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 82


Food & Drink

Let’s be honest...

Potsdammer Platz is expensive,

touristy and lacking in quality

when it comes to food and

drink. You would be much

better hopping on the U -Bahn

and going elsewhere. If you

absolutely must dine here,

listed below are a few places

you could try. If they don’t

tempt you numerous generic

restaurants and bars can be

found in the Sony centre.

Weilands Wellfood

www.weilands-wellfood.de

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn:

Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717

If feeling a bit bloated after too

much beer and bratwurst, head

to this wholesome self-service

buffet. Satisfying the most health

conscious consumers, benefi t from

salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat

pasta dishes. Reasonably priced

averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be

warned that fl avours may differ

from what’s advertised. Free WiFi

available.

Billy Wilders

www.billywilders.de Potsdamer

Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz

Tel: 030-26 55 48 60

Much like its namesake, Billy

Wilder’s offers something a little

different from its contemporaries.

Surrounded on all fronts by

corporate brands and identikit bars,

this bar is a pocket of character in

an otherwise bland area. Presided

over by a large portrait of the

acclaimed director, responsible for

the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting

around the curved bar drinking tall

drinks whilst admiring the sleek art

deco interior is glamorous nostalgia,

all the more emphatic in its contrast

to the concrete jungle outside its

doors. Just a lift ride away from

the Museum of Cinema, there is no

more fi tting way to refl ect on the

golden age of Hollywood. They say

they don’t make like they used to;

well, in this case they do. Prices are

however indicative of the area so

best to get there during happy hour.

83 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 84


Freidrichshain Information

An up and coming neighbourhood

in East Berlin, Friedrichshain offers

travellers a look into Berlin’s vibrant

bar, café, club, and restaurant

culture.

The neighbourhood boasts an

extensive nightlife where travellers

can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse,

enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the

beach bars on the Spree, experience

the underground punk scene, or have

a sleepless weekend gyrating on a

dance fl oor until Sunday afternoon.

Friedrichshain is unmistakeably

a neighbourhood of the East with

Socialist architecture and its grand

boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx-

Allee, formerly Stalinallee.

The East Side Gallery is the star

tourist attraction of this district. It is

the longest intact part of the Berlin

Wall, with many murals created by

known and unknown artists alike.

Gentrifi cation is quickly closing in

on this eccentric neighbourhood.

The O2 World Arena recently opened

and there are plans to continue

developing and do away with many of

the quirks like its famed beach bars,

which make this neighbourhood tick.

Hopefully, the area will survive this

demolition and continue to fl ourish

under Berlin’s counter culture.

85 Freidrichshain 86


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

East Side Gallery

w w w. e a s t s i d e g a l l e r y. c o m .

Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/

Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission.

Located in an area where sightseeing

is all but void this 1.3km long stretch

of the former Berlin Wall is now

home to murals created by 118

artists around the world. Opening

as a gallery in 1990 the section is a

celebration of the fall of the wall and

a symbol of freedom and expression.

It is also the longest remaining

section of this concrete divider left

in Berlin.

Upon approaching this outdoor

gallery the €2.2 million restoration

process taking place is evident.

Freshly reconditioned murals shine

out beside the rawness of original

sections scarred by weathering and

often less artistic graffi ti. The gallery

is now being renovated in stages in

preparation for the 20th anniversary

of the reunifi cation of Berlin.

Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’

process as only 80% of the original

artists were able to be contacted to

restore their own pieces.

Famous murals which have been

replicated without the artists’

permission include “God help

me to survive this deadly love”,

by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which

portrays communist leaders Erich

Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked

in a passionate embrace. Another

iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly

illustrates an East German Trabant

bursting through the Wall in a

symbolic representation of a failed

escape attempt. A visit to the sight

before the fi nal section is repainted

allows the visitor the form their own

opinion on which best represents

freedom and expression.

87 88


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Qrazy:Ling’s

www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13

Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493

157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pmlate,

Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to

€9.

The strikingly colourful graffi ti façade

of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out

authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but

on entrance you’ll fi nd an intricate

hand-made décor and an impressive

menu of mouth-watering delights.

Vietnamese food is all about fresh

ingredients and fragrant aromas and

Qrazy:Ling’s food certainly embraces

this tradition.

Whether you go for the traditional

simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho

or the rice noodles with deliciously

marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will

be surprised at how much fl avour

one mouthful can deliver. The main

meals are generously portioned with

affordable prices so you won’t go

home feeling hungry at the slightest.

Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected

via an arch to art store Quality

Lovers which explains why this

traditional Vietnamese restaurant

has such a quirky modern feel and a

relaxed atmosphere to match.

Service can be slow with big groups,

but for Ling’s utterly delectable

food, it is defi nitely worth the wait.

Cayetanom Mediterranean

Restaurant

Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn:

Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730

042. Price: €5-10.

Settled in amongst trendy shops,

ice-cream parlors and cobblestone

pathways, Cayetano is perfectly

located for a mid-day sustenance

break. A number of outdoor tables

provide a cool, shaded atmosphere

for eating, drinking and peoplewatching

and the servers are

courteous and hospitable. The

portions are generous and come

with a fresh side salad as well as

soft, white bread.

The diner can choose between a

number of items, ranging from

American-style burgers, Italian

pasta dishes and typical German

fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly

doused with tangy feta and balsamic,

the salads are perfect for lunch and

not to be missed in the evening is the

fi lling spätzle dishes: small potato

dumplings smothered with fresh herbs

and dotted with mushrooms, carrots

and chicken. Vegetarian options are

also available. Whether it’s for a

fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break

or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers

it all in the way of a smiling staff,

fi lling food and a soothing setting.

If you’re in the area on Sunday,

Cayetano also offers an all-you-caneat

brunch on Sundays from 10am-

3pm.

89 90


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar

www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn:

Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse.

Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49

3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am,

Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10.

Situated on a busy street bursting

with worldwide cuisines at every

turn, Don is the place to be for

deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic

cocktails.

Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour

of up to 50% off selected dishes

from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s

starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish,

it’s a great way of trying the large

range of sushi they have on offer.

You can even watch the sushi chef at

work as he makes your sushi, which

adds a personal touch, and you can

be guaranteed that the fi sh is fresh!

Although the portions are slightly on

the small side the reduced price that

you pay means you are getting your

money’s worth, rather than being

overcharged for normal prices.

Sushi is usually associated with sake

and green tea, so it may seem odd

that Don Sushi offers a variety of

cocktails alongside its sushi menu.

Starting from €4 per glass, they are

refreshing little treats at the end of

a long day or alternatively the start

of a long night of exploring the city.

A handy tip: there is only one sushi

chef so it is recommended to go in

smaller groups to avoid a long wait,

as all orders for the same table arrive

together.

Cafe Sibylle

Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn:

Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz.

Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm.

Price: €0-5.

With a unique history spanning

back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle,

originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles

as both a cafe, and a communist

museum.

The cafe offers an assortment of

freshly baked cakes, ice-cream,

sandwiches, as well as a great

selection of cocktails, and nonalcoholic

drinks. While waiting for

your order, you are free to walk

around, and look at their collection

of Eastern Germany-era artifacts.

Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor

and outdoor seating. This unusual,

half-furnished cafe does a great

job meshing together modern art

with its utilitarian past. Behind

the brightly colored statues and

paintings, it is still possible to see

the bland colourless walls from its

GDR days.

With rhythmic jazz music in the

background and their eclectic décor,

indoors is a great place to sit and

chat, or to get some work done.

Outdoor seating might require a

wait, but it does provide a great view

of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee.

This historical street, renamed after

Stalin was removed from power, was

where East Berliners used to watch

the tanks roll by during the annual

military parades.

With some coffee, cake, and

communism, this is an enjoyable way

to learn about an important piece of

German history.

91 92


Nightlife Nightlife

Lebowski’s

www.kneipe-lebowski.de.

Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn:

Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733

561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price:

€2-5.

An upside down bowling alley peering

down on patrons as they happily sip

away at their white Russians sets

the scene for this Friedrichshain

institution. Lebowski’s, a bar

based around the cult movie The

Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array

of colourful characters, most of

which have taken the movie’s main

character, The Dude, as a style icon,

donning trench coats, long hair and

even longer unkempt beards.

Lebowski’s manages to avoid the

common corny and trite pitfalls that

other themed bars tend to suffer

from. Managing to perfectly strike a

balance between paying tribute to

the cult movie while maintaining the

charm and charisma of the Berlin dive

bar scene, this watering hole serves

up heaps of personality. Wooden

columns and secluded nooks provide

an intimate and fun atmosphere for

a relaxed drink or an absinth-soaked

night of craziness.

The walls are covered with effi gies

of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman

and Steve Buscemi, portraying their

characters in the movie and during

themed nights the movie is played

repeatedly on screens throughout the

bar; walk into the restrooms of this

weird and wonderful bar and you can

hear The Big Lebowski through the

loudspeakers dubbed into German.

This drinking establishment has

certainly been built by fans of the

movie for fans of the movie.

As such, no fan should leave without

having a White Russian, The Dude’s

favourite drink. White Russians will

run at €4.90 while draught beer runs

at under €3.

Cassiopeia

www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler

Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer

Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594.

Entry: €4-8.

Along Friedrichshain’s infamous

Simon-Dach-Straße you can fi nd a

vast array of bars but for something

a bit different head towards Revaler

Straße to stumble across the underworld

that is Cassiopeia.

There are two club fl oors that host a

wide range of musicians and djs from

a local standard right up to internationally

renowned acts. Open every

night of the week except Mondays

you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock,

hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n

bass and much more but be sure to

check on their website to fi nd out

what’s on.

Set in over 4,000m² of old factory

halls there is plenty of space to let

yourself go and soak up the unique

experience that this place has to offer.

Once inside the compound there

is a great feeling of separation from

the outside world due to the high

factory walls and towering trees but

you are given an enormous sense of

freedom by the sheer vastness of it

all.

93 94


Astro

Nightlife Nightlife

Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U-

Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3

029 661 615.

This sci-fi themed bar is always an

excellent place to start or fi nish

the night. It’s often guaranteed to

attract a fairly young crowd including

a number of tourists and with the

intimacy of the place it’s great for

meeting new people from all walks

of life.

Hanging from the ceiling are robots

and behind the bar is made to look like

the control panel of a space shuttle.

Go through to the back room and

they even have the game Asteroids

playing behind glass panels.

Aside from the space adventure the

drinks are reasonably priced and

the bar staff are often very friendly.

There are a wide range of cocktails

which are all large and very strong -

highly recommended is the caipirinha

for €5.

There is always good music playing

from electro to punk to reggae and

on weekends there are live DJ sets.

Granted there is no room to dance

but foot tapping and moderate hip

movements are encouraged.

Kptn A. Müller

www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse

32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer

Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks

€0-4.

There is one reason you have

to visit this bar – the drinks are

cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the

mismatched decor might be as well,

it just adds to the atmosphere and

at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg

who’s complaining?

It’s not just the beer either, cocktails

are mostly available at around €3.50

and they are not shy of alcohol either.

Basically your fi rst €10 will get you a

long way.

The only downside is that it can be

a little cramped and the outside

seating and tables are packed away

at about 11.30pm. However this

should not deter, if all the seats are

taken you can stand up and play

table football in the back room.

Internationales Berliner

Bierfestival

www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl-

Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor

or Strausberger Platz. First weekend

of August. Free admittance.

On the fi rst weekend of every August

Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into

what has been dubbed as ‘the

longest beer garden in the world’.

Running from Frankfurter Tor to

Strausberger Platz, the Berlin ‘Beer

Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000

guests sampling 1800 varieties of

beer from around the world.

The International Beer Festival is

a vibrant blend of entertainment,

eating, drinking and a great place

to catch a glimpse of Berliners at

play. Attracting a mix of young, old,

tourists and locals alike the crowd

is as diverse as the choice of beers.

An assortment of live music keeps

the slow moving crowd entertained

as they amble through. Taster mugs,

available on entry for €3.50, are a

convenient way of sampling the vast

range of beer on offer.

Also be sure to stop at one of the

reasonably priced food stalls for

a beer-complimenting snack such

as currywurst or potato salad. A

mishmash of unique architecture,

novelty hats and quirky waitresses

make this event well worth a visit.

However be aware of a change in

atmosphere after dark as the relaxed

environment is often disrupted by

those who have had one too many in

the sun.

95 96


Accommodation Accommodation

Eastern Comfort Hostel

Boat

www.easterncomfort.com.

Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U-

Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: +

49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am-

12am.

Prices:

1st class cabins:

€64-78

Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19

Dorms: cost €16pp

Camping costs €12pp

For those looking for a bit of

adventure on the open seas, or in

this case the open Spree, the Eastern

Comfort Hostelboat is ideal.

Straddling two up-and-coming

neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and

Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the

ideal location. The hostel itself has

kept its original design and offers

fi rst- and second-class cabins on the

upper and lower decks of the ship.

First class is on the upper deck, and

includes private rooms with their

own bathrooms and views of the

East Side Gallery or the Spree River.

The lower deck is for aspiring sailors

with a tight budget. The rooms are

dorm style complete with their own

bathrooms and portholes overlooking

the river. There is also an option for

campers, who can set up tents on the

back of the boat. The fl oating lounge

on the top deck is a must see.

* Internet available

* Free wi-fi

* Breakfast €4

* Bedding €5/byo

* No curfew

* Bicycle-hire

* Laundry service

Ostel - Das GDR Design

Hostel

www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5.

S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025

768 660.

Prices:

Dorm room: €9

Single room: €33

Double room: €54

Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to

re-live the days of the GDR before

the wall fell? Then the Ostel Hostel

is an excellent choice.

The hostel has embraced the idea of

Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for

life in the former GDR, which is still

present in Berliner society today.

Each room had been decorated to

emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete

with typical GDR household items,

such as patterned wallpaper, mod

lamps, and shag carpeting.

The hostel is not the most social

hostel since rooms are spread out

between a series of apartment

buildings, but each room is

immaculately clean and has its own

bathroom and a balcony.

The staff are very friendly and

helpful and always willing to answer

questions. The hostel is located a few

metres from the Ostbahnhof station,

which is just a few stops away from

Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte.

* Breakfast €4.50

* Bike rental

* Wi-fi

97 98


Kreuzberg Information

Kreuzberg is Berlin’s bastion of

counterculture, famous for its

punks, squatters, alternative art

scene and May Day riots. The Eastern

section, from Kottbusser Tor to the

Spree River, is the grittiest, and

the place where the squat scene

developed during the Cold War.

The area remains Berlin’s centre of

alternative politics and nightlife,

with a profusion of riverside bars

and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of

the main streets, and Wiener Straβe,

Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische

Straβe are also good for nightlife

and cheap eateries.

Along with its bohemian residents,

Kreuzberg is home to Berlin’s

largest Turkish community, with

one in three residents of Turkish

origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’

were invited to Berlin after cheap

East German labour was made

unavailable when the wall went up.

It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born

Mahmut Aygun invented the doner

kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still

stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The

area teems with kebab shops, and

every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish

market spills out along the river at

the Maybachufer.

The area to the West of Kottbusser

Tor is slightly more upmarket.

Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and

the streets around Viktoriapark are

some of the liveliest for shops and

cafes. The more conventional tourist

attractions are also in the West,

and include the Jewish Museum and

Checkpoint Charlie.

99 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 100


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Berlinische Galerie

(Berlin Gallery)

Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn:

Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26

00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8.

A vivid yellow fi eld of seemingly

jumbled letters initially lures the eye

at the entrance of the Berlinische

Galerie: Berlin’s Museum of Modern

Art, Photography, and Architecture.

Inside the gallery almost overfl ows

with themes including the

secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New

Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group,

Russians in Berlin and the avante

garde.

Originally a private institution

situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau,

the gallery relocated to its new

location in 2004, designed by Huhn

Malvessi, and has fl ourished into

an excellent national gallery with

an international reputation. The

industrial hall holds many temporary

exhibitions to accompany its

permanent one, as well as lectures,

archives, a library, movies and music.

First Monday of the month has the

cheapest entry at only €2. There is

also reduced admission with a ticket

from the Jewish Museum on the day

of visit and the next two days.

Anhalter Bahnhof

Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn:

Anhalter Bahnhof.

For a fragmentary glimpse of one

of the greatest structural triumphs

of Berlin, Anhalter Bahnhof is an

essential place to pay a visit. Today

you are faced only with its imposing

façade on Askanischer Platz. Yet it is

the station’s strong visual presence

and its history that should inspire

you to visit.

Alongside the architectural and

technological grandeur of the

station, lies the horrifi c role that it

played in holocaust history. In total,

the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation

convoys, usually consisting of 50 or

100 people at a time. Nearly 10,000

victims were deported by means

of this station to await their fate.

Bombing in the Second World War

partially ruined the Bahnhof. After

falling into decay and disrepair,

it was sadly demolished in 1961,

leaving only its present remnants.

First built in 1839, in the relatively

early days of locomotives, the train

station was modest in size and

appearance. The 19th century, the

age of mass industry, cried for a

greater demand for passenger and

freight trains. These demands were

before long answered and in 1875

the architect Franz Schwechten

(who also designed Kaiser William

Memorial Church) received the task

of enlarging the station. Considered

a masterpiece of railroad station

construction in its day, Anhalter

101 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 102


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the

South” for Berliners.

Jüdisches Museum

(Jewish Museum)

www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 –

14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Tel: +49

3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm,

Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission:

€2.50-€5.

Since its inauguration in 2001, the

Jüdisches Museum has attracted over

350,000 visitors. Thousands came

even before the museum was fully

open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold

and innovative architecture. The

museum’s alien appearance demands

attention, and it is worthwhile to

take a moment before entering to

stop and appreciate this.

The museum’s exterior, an angular

external structure, resembles a

thundering lightning bolt, possibly

representing a deconstructed Star

of David. Its modern metallic facing

is at odds with the baroque facade

of the Kollegienhaus, once an

administrative building to the Court

of Justice in the 18th Century. This

now serves as the entrance to the

Jewish Museum, and connects to the

Libeskind building via a black slate

staircase which leads you to the

main exhibition space.

Upon descending the stairs, you are

presented with a path system of

connecting axes, symbolising three

realities in the history of German

Jews. The Axis of Emigration details

the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s,

eventually leading outside to the

Garden of Exile. The slanting fl oors

and narrowing walls channel the

visitor along the corridor, until you

open the heavy iron door to step

outside into the disorientating and

confusing maze of concrete pillars.

In comparison, The Axis of the

Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits

personal items of Holocaust victims,

such as letters and photographs, and

terminates at the end of the passage

with the commemorative Holocaust

Tower. The Axis of Continuity

connects the Old Building with the

main staircase, which leads up to

the vast permanent exhibition on

the second fl oor.

Be sure to stop half-way up the main

staircase and explore Kadishman’s

abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen

Leaves), dedicated to victims of

war and violence. The cavernous

hall is fi lled with 10,000 iron faces,

a look of open-mouth terror hacked

into each one. Strewn across the

fl oor, the faces clank together as

people walk though the room,

shattering the silence.

At the top of the staircase

the permanent exhibition

begins, showcasing 2000

years of Jewish history and

culture in Germany. Whilst

their struggle for integration

is well-documented, it is their

achievements that are the focus

of the exhibition. The museum

uses artwork, photographs,

letters and biographies of

both ordinary Jewish people

and prominent historical

fi gures, to fully illustrate the

impact Jewish people had on

society. The central theme of

the museum is the enormous

contribution the Jewish

population makes to Western

culture, and they are presented

as a race alive with intellect,

creativity, perseverance and

strength of faith.

The Jüdisches Museum is

an example of an architect

wanting visitors to approach

the museum with willingness

to engage with his work and

create an emotional link

between people and exhibits.

The museum is completely out

of the ordinary, and an utterly

103 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 104


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Alternative Living

Berlin’s alternative scene is vast

and runs deep within the city’s

districts. From the peculiar cabaret

to the scene of punks that frequently

doze on the lawn at Warshauer

Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and

growing culture here. For many the

attraction of the underground scene

is its secretive and elusive nature.

The remarkable old squats along the

river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer

to remain tourist free – utmost

respect must be practiced at all

times if a visit is made, after all it

is somebody’s home - and those who

are in the know, often like to keep

it top secret. This helps to maintain

the immensely mysterious air to the

scene.

The glowing history of Berlin’s squat

scene and the acquisition of such

buildings often follow a similar

story. The fall of the Berlin Wall saw

a swarm of people move from east

to west which left many buildings in

the east uninhabited. These began

to be snapped up either by artists

who desired such spaces for their

work, or by those who disliked the

capitalist culture of the west. Thus

the squatting culture in East Berlin

was born. The artistic and political

aspects still remain and may be seen

in the large-scale graffi ti art or the

anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on

fl ags and buildings.

Although Kreuzberg now resembles

the - graffi ti-covered - cloak of

eastern districts, it was actually

located in West Berlin. Being

surrounded by the wall on three

sides and a stone’s throw from East

Berlin, it was deemed an undesirable

location to live, although very

cheap. The low costs attracted a

population of students, immigrants

and artists, subsequently turning

Kreuzberg into an important

hub of multicultural, artistic

and intellectual development.

After the fall of the wall the

migration of artists to eastern

Berlin allowed Kreuzberg to

fl ourish into the vivacious

district that it is now known to

be.

Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and

often rather quirky, nightlife

means that getting lost is often

an exciting venture and can

be rewarded by a great fi nd.

Despite this, orientating oneself

in Berlin can also be quite a

struggle at times and although

the prospect of traipsing the

tourist sites of the city with

a large group isn’t everyone’s

cup of tea, tours are a great

way to become familiar with

certain areas. An Alternative

Tour is a great introduction to

Berlin’s underground scene as

it offers an historical overview

of the numerous squats and

street graffi ti art. There are a

few companies that run them

on a daily basis (Alternative

Berlin and New Berlin).

Many squats are now categorised

as housing projects as they

have contractual agreements

105 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 106


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

and pay (a very minimal) rent.

They run local community projects

offering, among other things: Kino -

cinema screenings; Voku - low priced

food; and a range of workshops to

disadvantaged people in Berlin.

There are art galleries and poetry

readings in others.

The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is

a great place to get a feel for the

community-minded mentality that

runs through

much of the

u n d e r g r o u n d

scene in Berlin.

There are around

60 different

projects running

there ranging

from night

clubs to circus

schools. A huge

and impressive skate park has been

built and acts as a centre piece for

the old squat. Residents allow the

public an opportunity to wander

through, grab a coffee, take pictures

of the graffi ti and truly participate in

the projects they run or the parties

they throw.

So take a stroll or get a bike and

explore the streets of Kreuzberg and

Friedrichshain to see what you can

fi nd.

The Alternative Tour

www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel:

+49 1 628 198 264. Meets every

day at 11am and 1pm, outside

Starbucks, under the TV tower at

Alexanderplatz.

The Alternative Tour was a great

way to see a whole different

side to Berlin. The fi rst thing

to remember is the difference

between tagging and art, although

Berlin has a lot of both. The laws

here don’t require building owners

to remove graffi ti, and as it is

such an expensive process, many

just don’t bother. Because of

this, Berlin’s street art is forever

changing.

An informative guide takes you

all around the city, through some

of Mitte’s back streets, past the

Raw Temple in Friedrichshain,

and especially around Kreuzberg.

Some artists are well-known, such

as El Bacho; and characters such

as Little Lucy. After the tour you

will see a whole new Berlin, and

constantly be on the lookout for

particular artists.

107 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 108


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Deutsches Technikmuseum

www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Strasse 9.

U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke. Telephone:

+49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am-

5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed

Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50.

The German Technical Museum

offers a cultural history of

Germany’s industrial technology.

Don’t be fooled by the title because

this museum offers interest in many

different areas extending from

The Deutsches Technikmuseum.

railways to fi lmography.

Formally one of Berlin’s industrial

sites dating back to 1874, which is

easily noticeable in the buildings

architecture, it has become one of

Berlin’s most appealing museums.

The layout comprises of eight

different sections, each is astounding

and unpredictable. From walking

through the textile and papermaking

machinery visitors come

face to face with life-size ships and

planes, some planes dating as far

back as 1918. From there you go on

to the rail sheds, with some of the

fi rst trains on show.

The next building leads you through

to photo technology, the science

centre and the Vintage Car Depot.

This is a massive insight into how

benefi cial the industrial revolution

was to Germany and there are plenty

of hands-on activities to take part

in. Why not climb aboard the ships

or step under giant locomotives,

watch an old fashioned picture fi lm

or discover the art of brewing? And

to fi nish the tour off visitors can

walk outside into the Museum Park

where there are windmills and the

water tower.

There’s something for everyone and,

in Berlin museum style, there are

many visitor activities and guided

tours making the visit that much

more impressive and extraordinary.

Schwules Museum

w w w. s c h w u l e s m u s e u m . d e .

Mehringdamm 61. U-Bahn:

Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172.

Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs.

Admission €5, concessions €3.

The only museum in the world

dedicated to the homosexual

lifestyle, this little museum plays

a big part in chronicling nearly

two centuries of Gay history and

social change. The museum houses

a remarkable collection of photos,

paintings and other assorted art

work about Gay life in Germany.

Tracing the gradual acceptance

of the homosexual existence with

its many trials and tribulations in

Europe, there is a big focus on Berlin

during the World Wars. The ground

fl oor allows for temporary exhibits,

presenting the work of famous Gay

Germans such as Herbert List and

other local Gay artists.

Comprehensive and informative

guides are available in many

languages to assist in your visit and

the volunteer staff are both helpful

and friendly.

109 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 110


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Exploring an Urban

Sculpture Garden

U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.

Berlin, famously described as ‘poor

but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public

art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’

sculpture to the provocative work of

street artists such as

Alias and El Bocho,

art is impossible to

avoid in this city.

Visitors are sure to

encounter plenty of

impressive work even

if they never set foot

in a museum.

One of Berlin’s most

compelling examples

of public art is the

Menschenlandschaft,

a diverse collection

of sculpture that

sprawls from a

leafy pocket park

near Schlesisches

Tor station toward the River Spree.

Don’t expect to fi nd much respite

here from the grit and gristle of

Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden

is unabashedly urban. In fact, to

walk the length of this ‘human

landscape,’ which features work by

seven different sculptors, visitors

must cross two busy streets and pass

under the U-Bahn tracks.

The experience of visiting the

Menschenlandschaft is punctuated

by urban noise – trains thundering

above and traffi c roaring nearby.

But instead of being an unwelcome

distraction, this setting actually

enhances the meaning

of the work. The

sculpture garden

was commissioned

to address the

immigrant experience

in Kreuzberg, a

neighbourhood which

has absorbed an

enormous immigrant

population, while

more recently

struggling with the

growing pains of

gentrifi cation. The

placement of these

art pieces, in the

‘leftover’ space

surrounding a major transit hub,

encourages the viewer to consider

the extent to which immigrants are

integrated into – or isolated from –

the social and economic fabric of the

city.

Walking east along Schlesisches

Strasse, look for two voluptuous

bronze nudes reclining in

the traffi c median. Follow

the concrete footpath

across the street toward

the garden’s centrepiece,

Turkish sculptor Mehmet

Aksoy’s 1987 work

A r b e i t s m i g r a t i o n .

Emerging from the grass

like alabaster totems,

Aksoy’s sculpture conveys

stylized and sometimes

disturbing human forms:

dislocated body parts,

isolated fi gures, and

huddled masses striving to

‘escape’ from the marble.

Continuing across the

street toward the river,

look for several more

works of sculpture

scattered throughout

the park. Perhaps the

most distinctive is Rudolf

Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a

stainless steel structure

which resembles an

enormous bent paper clip.

At the end of this sculpture

safari on the south bank of

the Spree, sightseers are

rewarded with a perfect

view of the magnifi cent

Oberbaumbrücke.

111 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 112


Shopping Shopping

NGBK

www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25.

U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel:

+49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm,

Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm.

Wander the streets of Kreuzberg

and you are likely to stumble across

many individual art exhibits and

bookstores; visit NGBK and you will

experience a unique combination

of both. The NGBK bookstore is

well-stocked in a number of genres,

particularly the Arts, with many

titles available in English. Berlin

receives special attention with a

vast selection of books covering all

aspects of the city.

The relaxed and open atmosphere

encourages those browsing to pick

a stool and read at leisure. To the

rear of the store, free entry to the

adjacent NGBK exhibition space

awaits. Here, through the medium

of visual art, questions and issues of

social importance are depicted and

explored. Exhibits change throughout

the year and are often supplemented

by discussions, lectures and other

events.

Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010

include: Shared. Divided. United,

which aims to draw comparison

between the divisive experiences of

Germany and Korea; and Amerikana,

documenting the mythology of US

society and the response of US artists

to such myths.

The NGBK bookstore alone warrants

a visit, but time things correctly

and you may be fortunate enough to

inject some art into your shopping

trip.

Box Off Berlin

w w w. b o x o f f b e r l i n . d e .

Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn:

Kochstraβe. Tel: +49 (0) 30 44

70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am.

Sidle away from the tacky

tourist shops surrounding

Checkpoint Charlie and

discover a refreshingly

different approach to souvenir

shopping. Box Off Berlin offers

a variety of quality souvenirs

created by local designers.

Think more cutting-edge

design, less souvenir shot glass.

Treat yourself to a fashionable

Berlin print, a unique tote or

a glossy hardback on Berlin

street art.

Fair trade and

environmentalism are key

concepts, so enjoy a fair trade

coffee from the coffee bar as

you browse the store and its

compact contemporary art

gallery.

Prices and products are wide

ranging and generally refl ect

the high quality and design of

each item. For those on a tight

budget, key rings and pens are

reasonably priced at under €5.

Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff

113 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 114


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Modern Graphics

w w w. m o d e r n - g r a p h i c s . d e .

Oranienstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer

Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49

6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat

10am-7pm.

This shop is a haven for any fan of

graphic novels, comics or other cult

merchandise. It contains a huge

selection of each with a more than

reasonably-sized section dedicated

to novels in the English language.

The staff are helpful, knowledgeable

and, most importantly, incredibly

enthusiastic about the material they

sell.

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap

Mehringdamm 32.

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.

Having a several-metre long queue

may be normal for a kebab shop at

four in the morning on a week night,

in an area located next to a street

full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but

when there’s a queue that big the

whole day long...one wonders what

must be so special about the food

that’s being served.

Staying in the constantly long line at

Mustafa’s is certainly worth the wait

as it serves very

possibly the best

kebabs in Berlin.

The choice at

Mustafa’s is very

simple: a kebab;

dürüm kebab

(in a wrap); a

vegetarian or

a vegetarian

dürüm. All of the

choices include

deep-fried vegetables, an amazing

selection of salad and best of all

crumbled cheese to top it off. The

meat kebabs include sliced chicken

döner from the large rotating spit.

What is perhaps so surprising about

Mustafa’s is that it’s little more

than a fi xed hut on the pavement,

which can hardly fi t the two men

who serve up the food all day long.

There is no seating and only a large

wooden table to the side where you

can stand and eat. This minimalism

is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm.

To top off the effect, Middle Eastern

music blares from the hut all day, so

you really feel like you’re getting a

full Eastern experience.

Hakata sushi restaurant

Oranienstrasse. U-Bahn: Görlitzer

bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor. Closed

Mondays. Price: €0-5.

This sushi restaurant truly is a must

for any fan of Japanese cuisine.

It may not visually stand out in

comparison with the various other

more colourful sushi restaurants in

the neighbourhood (and there are

several), but what it lacks in visual

splendour it more than makes up

for in superb taste. Herein lies this

establishment’s crowning glory.

The orders are taken on notes

you write yourself and are served

without dialogue. Indeed, you may

fi nd that Japanese can prove to

be more effective than German if

you are blessed with such language

skills. The food orders will also take

a longtime to fi nally emerge at your

table, which can be almost torturous

as you watch it being meticulously

made only a few feet away. Fear

not, however, for this is small price

to pay – along with the pleasingly

small bill - for truly authentic and

delicious sushi in Kreuzberg.

There is a wide range of dishes on

offer along with a satisfying number

of vegetarian options included in the

fray.

Belegschaft

w w w . d i e b e l e g s c h a f t . d e .

Zimmerstraβe 23. U-Bahn:

Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254

Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am-

7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3-

8.

Amongst the hustle and bustle

surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies

a calm oasis in Belegschaft.

This “organic quick food” café

features a range of soups,

sandwiches and daily specials at

reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal

in the café’s fresh, modern interior

or while people watching outside.

Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.

115 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 116


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Curry 36

www.curry36.de Mehringdamm 36.

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 302

51 73 68. Mon-

Sun 9am-5am.

€0-5.

A big fat German

sausage with

curry sprinkled

all over, and

ketchup on

top. One bite

and your mouth

will sizzle with

the contrasting

f l a v o u r s .

Another bite and

you’re hooked

on Currywurst.

The lines move

fast as sausages,

fries and drinks

are dished out

with German

effi ciency.

A delicacy that other places

have tried to re-invent, Curry

36 is a family-owned business

that began as a food cart

and expanded over 30 years

into a popular place to go for

Currywurst. The food is fresh,

the ketchup is homemade, and

if you can’t get enough of a fi x you

can even buy the sausages to take

home vacuum-packed.

You don’t have to ask the customers

twice if they enjoy it,

standing shoulder to

shoulder around tables

some wolf their sausages

down, while others

seems to let the taste

linger before forking

the next piece. Two

Currywurst with fries

will set you back €4.30

or 2 Currywurst with a

bread roll costs €3.20.

A boulette (a German

specialty of herbed

mince meat, but nicer

than a hamburger) with

curry costs €1.50.

Rundum Mehrzweckcafe

www.cafe-rundum.de. Stresemanstr

37.U-Bahn: Mockernbruke or

Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter

Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30

53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat-

Sun 10am-8pm.

Hidden amongst towering concrete

desolate buildings on this

quiet street in Kreuzberg,

Rundum Mehrzweckercafe

is a contemporary,

minimalistic yet charming

café serving generously

sized meals that

burst with fl avour and

freshness.

Highly recommended

are the daily specials,

which are generously

portioned for the price,

with freshly made pasta

with parmesan, walnuts and basil

pesto (fantastic for vegetarians),

succulent pork and mixed greens or

a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup

as just a few tasty examples.

There is also a good selection of

baguette fi llings and with prices

starting from €3.90 you will be

spoilt for choice. The homemade

desserts are worth a try, especially

the blueberry muffi n, which will

guarantee you

another trip

back for more!

On a nice summer

day you can bask

in the sun in the

outdoor area

or alternatively

enjoy your meal

Mountains of pasta at Rundum.

indoors whilst observing strange

abstract canvases of nature and

subtle nudity. Service is friendly and

the staff helpful, so whether you

want to enquire about a dish or to

get directions to the nearest station

they are more than happy to help!

As Rundum say themselves this really

is the place to “eat, drink, chat,

relax and enjoy.”

117 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 118


Food & Drink Nightlife

Max und Moritz

www.maxundmoritzberlin.de.

Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069

515 911. Open daily from 6pm.

Price: €10-15.

A welcome break from the

predominantly Turkish food found in

this part of the city, Max und Moritz

provides traditional German cuisine.

It is famous for cooking up Berliner

dishes in an authentic and relaxing

setting.

There is an impressive range of

these satisfying and hearty dishes.

From the traditional, time-honoured

Berliner Eisbein, a pickled pig foot

with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to

Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced

beef stew served

with salad

and dumpling

noodles. The

menu certainly

leans more

towards the

carnivorous in

nature however

there are also a

few vegetarian

dishes on offer.

Whatever your

taste, you will

fi nd something

to your liking here. Its generous

portions, welcoming atmosphere

and wonderful food make this Berlin

institution a must. The prices may

be a little high for the more budgetconscious

traveller with the more

expensive dishes running up to €14.

However there are less expensive

meals of offer from around €8.50

and the setting and atmosphere is

worth the little extra.

The restaurant can get quite busy at

times, a testament to the quality of

the food, so phone ahead to reserve

a table or go earlier in the evening

to avoid disappointment or a lengthy

wait.

Badeschiff

www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn:

Treptower Park. Bus 265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open from 8am. Admission

€3. Drinks: €3-10.

Badeschiff is Berlin’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in the

sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days.

Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river

venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the

river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim

and horse-around in a fl oating pool docked on the river.

Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment

takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of

various description for when the beers have given you some tipsy munchies.

Badeschiff is a must for any summer Berlin trip. Even if you’re just around for a

long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and

before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when Berliners

take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however,

spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fi ll up fast so either get there

early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment.

119 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 120


Nightlife Nightlife

Kiki Blofeld

www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker

Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine.

S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737

828 286.

Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of

Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian catstroking

evil villain and arch-nemesis

of James Bond,

is the patron of

the garden club

named in her

honour. So the

story goes of this

bank-side bar and

nightclub located

on the Spree

River.

Covered in sand

and with plenty

of places to hang

out, this Kikis

really is big, with

enough space to

fi t a lot of minibeach

parties. Scattered across the

outside area are pool- and ping-pong

tables as well as an area for making

bonfi res. Next to the upstairs bar is

a raised lounging area complete with

beach chairs.

The best part about this place is

the downstairs dance fl oor, the

“boathouse” as it is known, which

consists of a platform raised above

the river on stilts. The story of this

underground den is quite fascinating

- it was where the East German police

docked their boats when travelling

across the river to the West. The

platform is a U-shape and the boats

would drive into the middle to dock.

Instead of GDR

police boats, these

days a fl oating

infl atable octopus

decorates the

water.

Downstairs has a

fully stocked bar

as well, serving

beers for around

€3. The music is

techno/house, and

in true Berlin style

the club stays open

into the next day

on weekends.

The clientele of

Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists

know of it and it isn’t included

in many guide books. The vibe is

certainly that of the well-kept secret

- a hidden paradise complete with an

underground lair with sinister past -

Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly

approve.

SchwuZ

www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61.

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49

30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7

entry, €5 before midnight.

Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and

dance the night away at SchwuZ.

This club is a one-stop nightlife

hotspot which

welcomes all,

located within

the Schwulen

Zentrum (Gay

Centre) in

Kreuzberg. Enter

via Café Melitta

Sundstrom, the

destination to

chill out with

pre-drinks and

chat in-between

throwing shapes

on the dance

fl oor.

With three DJ rooms this venue

provides clubbers with choice and

change without having to venture

beyond its very own walls. The

variety extends to an eclectic range

of themed dance parties hosted

throughout the month, ranging

from punk to pop, and embracing

everything in-between.

Parties rotate so that they become

monthly events for the clubbing

calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a

night for the ladies; Madonnamania,

where the name says it all; and listen

to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe

at Bump! Check their website for

more events set to make your body

rock.

A good

night out is

P o p k i c k e r,

where a mix

of pop and

sport – fussball

and pingpong

especially –

are thrown

in for good

measure. The

crowd spices

up their

trendy dress

code with a

sports theme

including football shirts and vest

tops. The music in the main DJ room

has a familiar feel with the beats of

commercial and global pop vibrating

their rhythms through your body and

soul.

Make a calendar date and mix it up at

SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed.

Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.

121 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 122


Accommodation Accommodation

BaxPax Kreuzberg

w w w. b a x p a x - k r e u z b e r g . d e .

Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn:

Gölitzer Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3 069 518

322.

Prices:

Dorm Rooms: €12.

Double Room with ensuite: €25

If you like places with character

then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax

Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere

with a bar/cafe area close to

reception along with lots of tourist

information and advice including

previous guests views, suggestions

and advice on the ‘word of mouth’

board.

The whole hostel is very colourful

and all the dorms are large, fullyfurnished

and are decorated with

Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg.

a different culture theme giving

that added sense of a lively fun

atmosphere. There are two huge

common areas, shared/private

bathrooms and kitchen facilities

with a sun terrace.

The hostel is located on the main

street Skalitzer Strasse, where there

are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and

restaurants to suit all tastes. It is

also close to Warschauer Strasse,

Oranienburger Strasse and many

monuments such as the Jüdisches

Museum and Checkpoint Charlie.

· Lockers and safe available

· Internet access

· Breakfast buffet for €5.20

· Bike hire

3 Little Pigs Hostel

w w w. t h r e e - l i t t l e - p i g s . d e .

Stresemannstrasse 66. S-Bahn:

Anhalter Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3032 662

955. 24-hour reception.

Dorms: (low/high season prices)

8 bed: €13/15

6 bed: €14/16

Private double room: €31/32

Everyone knows the story of the

Three Little Pigs – how the brick

house protected them from the big

bad wolf. This hostel, also made

of brick, acts as a sanctuary for

travellers everywhere.

The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic

art deco building, built in 1910, with

lots of old-fashioned features set

in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of

Berlin’s most popular social districts.

The hostel is clean, bright, colourful

and tidy throughout and is in great

condition for the age of the building.

There are many communal areas

throughout as well as the bar and

beer garden. There is a relaxing,

quiet atmosphere and yet it is

close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist

attractions and nightlife.

This hostel has all the essentials

for students and backpackers, from

free guided city tours to the pool

table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer.

The location is walking distance

to some of Berlin’s major tourist

sights, such as Brandenburger Tor

and Checkpoint Charlie, as well

as cafes, bars, restaurants and the

local supermarket.

The friendly staff are enthusiastic

to help out with any questions or

queries you have on what to do (and

not to do) in Berlin plus heaps of

tourist leafl ets, maps, and popular

places on hand at reception.

· Bed linen: €2.50 obligatory

· Internet access

· Kitchen

· Parking

· Bike rental, €12 per day

· Breakfast, €5 all you can eat

Meininger Hostel Berlin

Hallesches Ufer

w w w. m e i n i n g e r- h o s t e l s . c o m .

Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn:

123 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 124


Accommodation Accommodation

Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke.

Tel: +49 3 066 636 100.

Prices:

Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€

Multi-bed room (triple,

twin, single) from 26€

to 60€.

This newly refurbished

hostel is perfect for

students who love

to party! Meininger

Hostels have two

hostels in Berlin plus

more around Germany

and London. One good

thing about chain

hostels is they tend

to meet a certain

living standard and

this particular hostel

certainly meets that.

The hostel has recently been

refurbished complete with clothes

storage space, TV, bathroom, linen

and towels. There are more than 300

beds and all rooms are cleaned daily.

Female only rooms are available for

the same charge as a standard room.

Located on the ground fl oor is the

newly refurbished bar complete with

pool table, comfy couches, TV and

daily discount bar offers. Although

downstairs is the party area it is

separated from upstairs, which has

a more chilled atmosphere. Located

on the top fl oor is a large breakfast

room and outside balcony terrace

area where you can see a fantastic

view of the Kreuzberg area.

The hostel is close to cafes and

restaurants and for those on a budget

€4 Pizza, located round the corner of

the hostel, is highly recommended.

What’s more the hostel offers free

walking tours and is close to the Sony

Centre, Deutches Technik Museum

and Topography of Terrors.

• Laundry €5

• Luggage Storage

• Internet and free WIFI

• Breakfast Buffet €4

Riverside Lodge

w w w . r i v e r s i d e - l o d g e . d e .

Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn:

Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515

510.

Prices:

Dorm rooms €21.

Double rooms €26.

This little charming hostel is perfect

for those who want a place to chill

from the busy atmosphere. Travellers

are close to the action and can get

a good night’s sleep. The hostel,

although small, is modern, bright and

tidy with plenty of space, even with

the giant economy-sized lockers and

the funky canoe in the large dorm.

This hostel consists of one four-bed

dorm, one six-bed dorm and one

double room in the hostel plus three

double rooms next door, which are

apartment style fl ats.

The hostel has all the basics with a

kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near

to cafes, restaurants, shops and the

huge Turkish market on Maybachufer

Straβe every Tuesday and Friday.

The markets are defi nitely worth a

visit and there are so many different

stalls from traditional Turkish meals

and sweets to clothes and jewellery.

Located in one of the Turkish

communities in Berlin, this hostel is

in a perfect place for those wanting

to stay elsewhere from the city

centre and enjoy the cultural Berlin

Turkish atmosphere.

· Internet €2 for the day

· Breakfast for € 4.00.

· Complimentary tea and coffee

are available at all times.

125 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 126


Charlottenburg Information

During the glory days of the GDR,

Charlottenburg was a pocket of West

Berlin where culture fl ourished.

Surrounded by the Berlin Wall, the

area was a protected sanctuary

with exceptional nightlife, cafés,

cinemas and a strong community of

artists, actors, and writers.

After the fall of the wall, these

creative communities moved East

to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and

Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg

lost its edge. Now this area

maintains its former glamour with

Kufürstendamm, locally known as

Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of

the East, lined with ritzy department

stores and boutiques for the wealthy

to splash out whilst on holiday in

Berlin. Charlottenburg is ideal for

those looking for a bit of quiet in the

constant hustle and bustle of a city

that never seems to sleep.

Charlottenburg’s main attraction is

Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque

palace located 3km north of Zoo

Station. The palace was modelled

after Versailles and its former

residents include King Friedrich I,

and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens

are perfect for wandering on a sunny

day.

Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche

is another worthwhile site to check

out in Charlottenburg. Heavily

bombed during World War II, the

church was left as it was and is now

an antiwar memorial and a constant

reminder of the destruction of the

war. The church was constructed in

1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now

tourists can visit the church and view

a collection of photographs and an

explanation of the church’s history.

Many museums are also located in

Charlottenburg, such as the Museum

für Fotografi e that chronicles the life

and work of Berlin’s internationally

acclaimed photographer, Helmut

Newton, and the Erotik Museum,

for those looking for something a

little different when it comes to

museums.

127 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg

128


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Schloss Charlottenburg

Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn:

Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn:

Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner-

Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun

10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14.

Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has

something for everyone. There is

a healthy dose of history for those

primarily interested in the whys and

wherefores of this beautiful building,

for art and architecture buffs there

is a huge amount to see in this

Baroque masterpiece, while there is

lots of human interest if you just like

a good story.

Schloss Charlottenburg, originally

called Lietzenburg, was fi rst

c o m m i s s i o n e d

in 1699 by the

Electress of

B r a n d e n b u r g

Sophie Charlotte.

After her death,

the building was

completed and

extended under

the orders of her

husband, then

King of Prussia,

Friedrich I, and

re-named in

her honour. This

relatively small

palace in a minor town outside Berlin

became the summer residence and

stately home of choice of many of the

later Hohenzollerns, and still bears

the marks of many of their lives and

personalities.

This historic site is of great importance

for those interested in the growth

of one of Europe’s greatest royal

houses. There is special emphasis

here on the women in this dynasty,

particularly Sophie Charlotte herself

and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King

Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom

spent much time and energy on this

building.

For the modern visitor, there is much

to see. The site itself is in fact three

separate exhibitions, each priced

separately (though a Day Ticket can

be bought which incorporates all

three).

The central exhibition here is the

Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s

original building and Friedrich’s

extension. Downstairs, the rooms

are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s

day while the upper fl oor is kept

(as much as possible) to how Queen

Elizabeth would have known it.

Many of the upstairs rooms were

damaged by bombing meaning that

reconstruction in their original form

was largely impossible. These rooms

now contain paintings and furniture

giving a representation of the

thoughts and morals of the time.

The personalities of the two Queens

are presented through these rooms in

a very lively way, helped by the use

of an audioguide, which is included in

the entrance price. A must-see is the

New Wing, which houses the State

Apartments of Kings Friedrich the

Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t

forget to enjoy the nature - take a

stroll around the beautiful gardens

and lakes, or even take a picnic.

129 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 130


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Museum für Fotografi e

(Museum of Photography)

www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn:

Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266

3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur

10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free:

Thursdays after 6pm.

One of history’s most daring and

notorious photographers, Berlinborn

Helmut Newton had a distinct

risqué style; capturing the dramatic

and often dangerous side of beauty.

Over 1,000 works from Newton

are permanently on display at

the Museum of Photography. The

collection of black and white photos,

often focusing on nude women,

explores the politically incorrect

sexual nature of the human species

which noticeably infl uenced society’s

perspective on fashion, women and

portraiture.

Following Newton’s fatal car crash in

October 2004, shortly after donating

more than 1000 of his works to the

museum, the public exhibition serves

to be a mesh of both bereavement

and celebration; for the art and man

who was Helmut Newton.

On the ground fl oor of the museum

is a rare showcase called “Private

Property” which delves into the

life of the photographer himself. A

replication of his Monte Carlo study,

family photos, and a collection of

letters between Newton and other

prominent members of society,

including Margaret Thatcher, pay

homage to Newton’s work and life.

The eerie collection is a perfect

introduction to the Museum itself as

the display reveals a prudent quality

to Newton’s extensive catalogue of

often misinterpreted pieces.

Situated on the fi rst fl oor and probably

the most highly regarded display

is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”,

which displays 394 black and white

photographs. Originally the contents

of a giant book, once limited to

the coffee tables of a well-heeled

few, the exhibit commemorates

the 10th anniversary of the book’s

publication. Amongst the collection

are rare portraits of the likes of David

Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner

Fassbinder and Andy Warhol.

Complimenting Newton’s works is an

exhibition entitled “Three Boys from

Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz

and Just Loomis, three friends of

Newton’s which he worked alongside

and mentored, have 25 pieces of

their collections on display. Selected

by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s

wife, the cinematic and raw style

of the collections share similar

undertones to a lot of Newton’s

work.

Together the collaborated display

makes for an impressive journey

into the eyes of one of the world’s

most controversial and leading

photographers. Although often

quite confronting and uncensored,

the photographs invite the viewer

to push past the nude subjects and

explore the world around the girl

and the vision of Newton himself.

The extensive collection tastefully

captures the triumph of desire and

the failure of reality rarely seen in

such an audacious and mischievous

manner, which is well worth a visit

for those that search beyond a bare

glance.

Gedenkstätte Plötzensee

www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.

de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:

Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun

9am-5pm. Price: Free.

The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is

a small memorial in the north of

Charlottenburg, dedicated to the

memory of those executed under the

Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a

prison, fi rst built in 1868 to house

convicts with short-term sentences.

It was also where some of the most

famous opponents of Nazi Germany,

including Klaus von Stauffenberg,

were imprisoned and executed. For

fans of the fi lm Valkyrie this site,

which was not allowed to be used

as a location due to the controversy

surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion,

may be of special interest.

The memorial itself is embodied by a

shrine. In the main room, which still

contains the hooks in the wall from

where prisoners were hanged, several

wreaths and fl ags mark the place

where many atrocities occurred. In

addition to this chilling reminder of

the reality of the prison’s history,

there is a small but informative

exhibition on the history of the prison

and the lives of its more prominent

victims. However for a site with

131 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 132


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

such an important history, there is

relatively little else to see.

In a Berlin which is full of memorial

after memorial to the victims of

Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small

exhibition may seem like one too

many for the average visitor. The

distance from the centre of Berlin

may also be troublesome – the

Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located

at least a kilometre from the nearest

station, though there is a bus that

stops about a 5 minute walk away,

and you need to walk through an

industrial estate to get there.

In many ways though, this remoteness

adds to the atmosphere perhaps

helping one to understand the

isolation of the condemned prisoners.

Although this memorial is small,

it is very well laid out and gives a

disquieting exposition of the terrible

events that took place here.

Story of Berlin

www.story-of-berlin.de.

Kurfürstendamm 207-208. U-Bahn:

Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720

100. Price: €8-10.

As the Story of Berlin goes, “The only

tradition this city will accept is that

it does not have a tradition”. This

statement is no better proven than

in this eclectic Berlin sensation.

Situated on classy Kufürstendamm,

inside a shopping centre, the Story of

Berlin museum makes no pretence of

being overly-scholarly or intellectual.

Instead the museum is very accessible

to all.

Without assuming that the visitor has

any prior knowledge, the exhibition

leads through a quick-fi re tour of

Berlin’s history, from 1237-1930,

establishing the scene for later, much

more familiar, events.

A lot of different media are used to

create the feeling of moving through

time; sound effects, videos and lifesize

models in particular help the

visitor to feel that they are actually

there. Moving forward into the Nazi

period (descending down an eerily lit

narrow staircase), these effects only

become more prominent.

The sound of breaking glass is

used to establish the presence of

Kristallnacht and, almost before

realising, the visitor walks over

real book spines encased within the

fl oor, symbolising the infamous Book

Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles

of rubble to evoke post-war Berlin

may seem a little heavy-handed

and melodramatic to some, but the

decorated living rooms of both East

and West offer interesting points of

comparison.

Be warned that there is a lot to read

and take in at once. In addition to

this no-senses-bared journey through

time, there is also the chance to tour

one of West Berlin’s largest nuclear

bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of

over 3,200 people this bunker was

never used for its intended purpose,

but the site remains almost exactly

as it was in the 1970s. Informed

tour guides give a fascinating insight

into how life in the bunker might

have been like had the bomb ever

dropped.

The sheer variety of topics covered

by this large museum would almost

defy belief, if they were not all

linked by their relationship to the

city of Berlin.

This only goes to show how much

depth and diversity Berlin itself

has. Seeing all of Berlin’s history

together in this way indicates how

much this city has led the world in so

many areas, yet somehow it remains

utterly unique.

133 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 134


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Käthe Kollwitz Museum

www.kaethe-kollwitz.de.

Fasanenstaβe 24. U-Bahn:

Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825

210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price:

€2.50-5.

Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist

working in the fi rst half of the 20th

century. Unusually for

a female artist, she

was highly successful

and infl uential in her

own lifetime. She

was also a dedicated

socialist and, having

lost both her son

and her grandson in

World War One and

Two respectively, was

defi antly anti-war.

These convictions

made her a target

for the Nazis, who

removed her from a

prestigious position at

the Academy of Art and banned all

exhibitions of her work from 1937

on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly

before the end of the war.

Pacifi st, socialist and maternal

themes are a recurrent feature of

her work, exemplifi ed by famous

prints such as the Memorial to Karl

Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924),

and the Krieg series of woodcuts

(1922/23).

Her work is highly politicised and

emotive. It is often bleak, executed

almost entirely in monochrome,

and displaying an empathy with

the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz

museum houses a

collection of drawings,

prints and sculptures

over four fl oors, and you

can see more sculptures

in the garden. The

museum also contains

a collection of selfportraits

from 1888 –

1938.

Kollwitz’ signifi cance

can be seen all over

Berlin: the central

square in Prenzlauer

Berg, where the

artist lived, is named

Kollwitzplatz and

contains a sculpture of her. An

enlarged copy of one of her most

famous works, the sculpture Mother

with Dead Son, is the focal point of

the war memorial Neue Wache on

Unter den Linden. Her importance

to the culture of the city is clear,

making a trip to this small museum

a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s

135 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 136


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Olympiastadion

Olympische Platz 3.

U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn:

Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688

100. Closed during sporting events.

Price: €3-4, Family: €8.

Going to watch Hertha Berlin play

at the Olympiastadion is more than

just seeing a football match. The

iconic stadium provides a great site

for football, and entry through the

Olympic rings gives a sense of how

history and sport have come to mix.

Once inside the home support is

immediately recognisable, mainly

dominating one area of the ground

with customary continental fl ag

waving and group jumping.

The atmosphere is good especially

when the home fans decide to get

the drums and chants going. However

this can be slightly lost, due to its

large capacity, as the stadium only

sells out when the big teams arrive

in town.

This though does have the advantage

of tickets often being readily available

History...

The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in

world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by

Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk

underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time

but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided

to give Berlin the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to

build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one.

The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals

which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race

policy. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime example of the neoclassical

architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features

such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war

the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha

Berlin played there and in 1974 it played host to some World Cup games.

After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a stateof-the-art

roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World

Cup matches in 2006, including the fi nal; and the 2009 World Athletics

Championships.

with a decent price range to choose

from, although it is probably best to

aim for a mid-range ticket.

The team itself is a founding

member of the German FA and their

performances have picked up in

recent seasons but they still have

not reached the illustrious heights of

other German teams such as Bayern

Munich.

137 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 138


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Aroma

www.cafe-aroma.de. Kantstrasse 35.

U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf Strasse. Tel:

+49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm-

3am. Price: €3-15.

On the corner of Kantstrasse

and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a

Cantonese style restaurant, and one

of the bigger and older establishments

in Berlin’s modest Chinatown. Aroma

is one of the few places in Berlin that

serves authentic dim-sum.

Though it can get quite busy around

noon, and on weekends, it is a nice

and relaxing place to have a late

lunch. The German/Chinese speaking

staff are quick to serve and though

the menus are scarce of any English,

the colourful pictures make it much

easier to pick your meal.

Lon-Men’s Noodle House

Kantstrasse 33. U-Bahn Wilmersdorf

Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 519 678. Mon-

Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8.

Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a familyrun

Taiwanese eatery that serves

some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle

dishes. This small, simplistically

decorated restaurant resembles

one you would fi nd on the streets of

Taiwan. Not to be confused by the

name, you can order dishes aside

from noodles.

Although they offer a number of

rice entrees, spring rolls, and other

appetizers, the dish to try is the

beef noodle soup. This comes with

a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn

noodles and carefully seasoned

soup. It is topped with savoury slices

of masterfully marinated beef,

and sprinkled with tangy, pickled

vegetables.

The meals come in two sizes: €4

for a small bowl (typical meal

sized), or €8 for a large one (for the

hearty traveller). This little piece of

Taiwan in Berlin is defi nitely worth

a visit, and though there are some

differences from the meals served

over 5000 miles away, they are a

close second best.

Der Kuchenladen

w w w. d e r - k u c h e n l a d e n . d e .

Kantstrasse 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf

Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue-

Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm.

Price: €2-5.

Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint

cake shop called Der Kuchenladen

(literally, the cakeshop). The brightly

coloured wallpaper catches the

eyes and draws you in, as do the

chandeliers adorned with crystal

ornaments. Upon walking in, you are

immediately greeted by the aroma of

baking chocolate.

Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a

storybook sweets shop. The room is

lined with a myriad of freshly baked

cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The

small, but well-equipped tables look

fi t for a tea party.

Their selections of cakes are changed

daily, and range from a simple piece

of cheesecake to the more exotic

Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable

cake made with rice, pistachios,

cherries, and topped with a light

layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries

are fairly priced, with the generous

portions big enough for two.

139 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 140


Accommodation Accommodation

Pension Peters

www.pension-peters-berlin.de.

Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn:

Savignyplatz. Tel: +49 303 122 278.

Price:

Singles: from €58

Doubles: €79-85

Triples: €95

Quads: €105

Located just aound the corner from

Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is

perfect for groups of travellers on a

budget or couples with a little looser

budget than the average traveller.

Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles

are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros,

quads are 105 euros, and fi ve beds

are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is

included in the price.

The pension was opened in the 1930s

and has been run by the same family

for the last fourteen years. It has

brand new facilities and a simple

and artistic design that fi ts perfectly

with the pension’s sleek atmosphere.

Although the pension is on a busy

street, most rooms surround a

courtyard set back from the main

road, so there is not much of a

problem with noise. The quad rooms

are ideal for groups because if four

people split the price, the cost ends

up being comparable to a hostel, and

groups do not have to share their

bedroom or bathroom.

The pension is walking distance

to many cafés, restaurants and

shops, so travellers will be spoilt

for choice when trying to decide

where to get a meal, or where to go

shopping. The main shopping street,

Kurfurstendamm, is a fi ve to ten

minute walk away from the pension.

* Free wi-fi

* Breakfast buffet included

* Includes shower, toilet, TV.

141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 142


Schöneburg Information

Schöneberg is now one of the more

gentrifi ed areas of Berlin, but it has

a surprisingly radical past. Around

Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is

the city’s oldest gay quarter, and

Schöneberg is still home to the

largest gay community in Berlin.

Nollendorfplatz is the scene of

much of the nightlife, and inside the

U-Bahn station there is a memorial

to homosexuals murdered by the

Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of

fascism in pre-war Berlin are vividly

described in Christopher Isherwood’s

Berlin Stories, which are based on

his experiences living at Nollendorf

Straβe 17.

Other famous former residents of the

borough include David Bowie and Iggy

Pop, who rented a fl at at Hauptstraβe

155 in the late seventies. Sixties

chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did

Marlene Dietrich who is now buried

in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery.

Fans of famous gravestones can also

visit the fi nal resting place of the

Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus-

Kirchhof.

The area’s best known sight is

Rathaus Schöneberg where John F

Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin

ein Berliner’ speech in 1963. The

well-known story that the president

actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’

is false. In fact, Berliners had such

high regard for him after the speech

that, the day after his assassination,

the square outside the Rathaus was

renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For

cafes and bars try the area around

Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also

a busy Saturday market.

143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus

Schöneberg

John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn:

Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun

9am – 4pm.

This small but perfectly formed

antiques haven is a cut above

Berlin’s numerous other fl ea

markets. The goods on offer

are of high quality and there is

much to choose from.

In front of the impressive

Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls

overfl ow with furniture, arts and

crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl

records, books and jewellery.

Whilst others may come away

from Moritzplatz with a pair

of tie-dyed Harem pants, at

Schöneberg visitors barter for

Art Deco chandeliers, mink

stoles, antique books and

silverware.

Prices start out high, given

the nature of what’s on offer,

but haggling is both the norm

and expected. Books written

in English are also widely

available, which sell for around

€3 each. There are bargains

to be had if you are ready and

willing to search.

Botanical Gardens

www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise-

Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer

Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am-

9pm in summer. Price: €2-5.

Being the second

largest botanical

garden in the

world this beautiful

reserve allows for

endless wanderings

and musings while

offering a haven

from Berlin’s nearby

urban landscape.

It boasts 126 acres

of lawns, forests and

lakes and is home

to 22,000 species

of fl ora nurtured

in the many

different gardens

and habitats of the

park.

Amongst the tall trees and idyllic

lakes there is an elegant Italian

garden, a medicinal plant garden,

and a section where you can handle

unusually shaped and scented

varieties of plant and fl ower – the

fragrance and touch garden.

The striking bio domes house tropical,

sub-tropical and desert climatic

zones. After you’ve walked through

the extensive displays of cacti, visit

the carnivorous plant section.

The orchid exhibit and the tropical

dome are a must.

You may also be

lucky to spot an

u n s u s p e c t i n g

gecko or one

of the green

woodpeckers that

were introduced

to create a more

authentic and

stable ecosystem.

The park’s museum

consolidates many

aspects of the

garden itself, and

enables visitors to

see the gardens

as they are in

different seasons.

There are exhibits that explore the

different scientifi c plant structures

and others that focus more on the

complex relationship between plants

and culture.

So whether a nature buff, a treehugging

hippy or just in need of an

escape this is something that should

not be missed.

145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146


Shopping

KaDeWe

www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe

21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz.

Tel: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am-

8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am-

8pm.

For those in need of some highend

retail therapy, this seven fl oor

“department store of the West” holds

claim to being the second largest in

Europe.

As expected from somewhere bearing

such an accolade, the assortment of

goods on sale is vast, ranging from

evening and cocktail fashion to

accessories for dogs.

If the enormity of this Berlin

establishment seems overwhelming,

then direct your energy towards the

gastronomic glory of the sixth-fl oor

food hall. The incredible array of fi ne

foods and wines on offer cannot fail

to impress.

Treat yourself to some quality

German confectionary or limited

edition designer mineral water as you

pass through. Alternatively, linger

for longer and enjoy an informal

meal from one of the many eateries

nestled amongst the food and drink

counters.

The grandeur of the designerlined

“Luxury Boulevard” is equally

worth perusing. Whether or not you

have the appropriate-sized wallet

to tackle this Berlin institution,

KaDeWe is certainly worth any

ardent shopper’s time.

Route 66

http://route66diner.de. Pariser

Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. Tel:

+49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am-

2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am.

This 1950’s American diner-themed

restaurant offers a broad menu of

typical US and Mexican cuisine.

The restaurant utterly

indulges in kitsch, and

is kitted out with an

excess of neon lights,

eating booths and mini

duke boxes at each

table.

The steaks are juicy,

the burgers wholesome

and milkshakes are

thick and creamy.

There is substantial in and outdoor

seating space and a selection of

Food & Drink

plasma televisions that screen sport

regularly.

Sunday brunch is offered from 10am-

3pm where pancakes, muffi ns and

eggs cooked to your preference may

be guzzled. Substantial portions,

with main courses starting from €5.

147 Schöneberg Schöneberg 148

Rani

Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn:

Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel:

+49 30 215 267. Open daily from

11am. Main dishes from €5, side

dishes from €2.

Slightly hidden away in the streets

of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian

restaurant. There is a large selection

of incredibly fl avoursome traditional

Indian meals available at very

reasonable prices.

The atmosphere is

suitably casual as diners

tuck into what inevitably

becomes a monstrous

feast as the aromas and

fl avours lure you into

trying many of the dishes

on offer.

A highlight on the menu

is defi nitely the Tikka dishes that that

come served to the table on a frying

skillet, much to the allure of other

guests in the restaurant.


Food & Drink

Joseph Roth Diele

www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer

Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten

Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon-

Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials

from €3.

At fi rst glance this small but

charming German restaurant along

Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost

resemble a 1920’s American diner.

However, the only

similarity here lies

in its collection of

old photographs and

memorabilia that

give testament to

the establishment’s

rooted history.

Named after a

Jewish writer whose

material can be

found throughout

the dining room, it

provides a limited

but delicious

selection of meals

that vary throughout

the week.

During the daytime, the menu is

limited to a daily special (one meat

and one vegetarian), and in the

evening there is a slightly more

expansive range of meals on offer.

Value for money is key here with

average daytime meal prices starting

from as low as €4. In spite of the

low price, the food is delicious and

hearty, if not totally inspiring, and

is perfect to be enjoyed in such a

humble establishment.

The most appealing aspect of the

restaurant however can be found

its art-deco style. A wonderful

contrast of abstract furnishings

and old photos can be found within

to suitably accompany your meal.

There are a wide range of barrel and

bottled beers on offer, in addition to

a respectable selection of wines.

Munch’s Hus Restaurant

www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße

66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49

30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am.

Prices range from €4-€17.

As the only Norwegian restaurant in

Berlin, this place is defi nitely worth

a visit if you fancy a change from

Currywurst.

Situated in the Schöneberg district,

Munch’s Hus boasts a range of

traditional Norwegian delicacies

including fresh fi sh dishes and

Food & Drink

delicious meatballs. For those

seeking a light lunch, sandwiches

and salads are also available.

The restaurant’s interior adds a

sophisticated touch, with large open

windows, summery yellow walls and

paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard

Munch who lived in Berlin in the

1890’s.

The light atmosphere and the

affordable yet high quality food make

this restaurant a hit with everyone

from businessmen to students.

149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150


Accommodation Accommodation

Jungen House Aletto

www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse

33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel:

+49 3 021 003 680.

Prices:

Dorm rooms: €15.

Single Rooms: €35.

Double Rooms: €39.

This modern style hostel at fi rst

glance looks like a hotel with

plenty of places to wind down after

sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto

has a relaxing sociable atmosphere

where you can meet other travellers

while drinking tea or coffee courtesy

of the hostel.

There’s a lot to do in and around

this area as the hostel is a stone’s

throw away from the U-Bahn and

tram stops, which can take you to

popular streets like Goltzstraβe and

Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots

such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche

and the Zoo.

Each room has all the essentials and

are ensuite. The rooms are compact

as they’ve certainly made use of

their space but there is heaps of

storage so you won’t be tripping

over people’s luggage. All the rooms

are modern, clean and each bed is

provided with linen and towels.

Although the hostel is on the main

road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole

hostel is quiet – something they pride

themselves on. The only drawback

is there’s no lift to this fi ve storey

building.

· 24-Hour Reception

· All-you-can-eat breakfast

· Linen provided

Sunshine Hostel

www.sunshinehouse-berlin.de.

Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn:

Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262

079.

Prices: rooms from €19.50

This colourful hostel is a place for

travellers of all ages. The hostel has

a defi nite community feeling with

friendly English-speaking staff who

are very considerate to their guests

needs. Although the hostel is close to

the motorway it has a huge courtyard

area with plenty of places to relax in

the sun or have a BBQ lunch.

The hostel has four separate blocks

with four levels. Each level is similar

to that of an apartment building with

four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a

small fully-equipped kitchen.

All the rooms are furnished and

there’s heaps of space for even the

largest suitcases. There are keys to

each room and each fl oor as well as

the gates to the grounds so it is very

safe.

There is also a lounge/basement area

with TV, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s

very light, spacious and is kept clean

and tidy, ready for use. Although

there’s not 24-hour reception there

is a code lock system to retrieve your

key if you arrive late at night.

The staff can also prepare breakfast

for hungry travellers, which is lovely

to eat outside in the courtyard or

in the apartment if it’s cold. If you

fancy eating out there are plenty

of cafes and restaurants as well as

shops round the corner from the

hostel.

· BYO towels

· Breakfast €5 by request

· Internet and WIF

151 Schöneberg Schöneberg 152


Contributors Contributors

153 154


Contributors Credits

Zaineb Al Hassani

Talya Friedman

Natascha Vogel

Ben Dillman

Adam Willsmore

Sebastian Cure

Emily Vindler

Pamela Mair

Kaye Nicolson

Daniel Smith

Karolin Hosenfelder

Michael McKay

Sierra Bucher

Sara Johnstone

Jason Chen

David Vanderhoff

Nadine Truong

Charlotte Nettleship

Matt Wilson

Amy Yu

Jessica Davidson

Mara Pattison-Sowden

Elizabeth Janowski

Lucy Bates

Rebecca Dopson

Kirsten Rumbles

Helen McFadridge

Piers Leonard

Tom Foster

Rosanne Visser

Alison Holland

Kieren Monaghan

Jay Patani

Alana Marmion-Warr

Katie Clark

Peter Bolton

Michael Alhadeff

Dorothy Melander-Dayton

Zoe Milne

Nicky Branagh

Sheena Odwyer

Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden

Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden

Zoe Milne

Matt Wilson

Graphic Design: Matt Wilson

Art Direction: Matt Wilson

Mara Pattison-Sowden

Zoe Milne

Sebastian Cure

Rosanne Visser

Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser

Tom Foster

Matt Wilson

Nadine Truong

Project City Travel Review by:

www.citytravelreview.co.uk

www.curso24.de

155 156


Credits Credits

© All Contributors 2009

This document or part thereof may

not be reproduced without express

permission from the authors.

©:

Zaineb Al Hassani

Talya Friedman

Natascha Vogel

Ben Dillman

Adam Willsmore

Sebastian Cure

Emily Vindler

Pamela Mair

Kaye Nicolson

Daniel Smith

Karolin Hosenfelder

Michael McKay

Sierra Bucher

Sara Johnstone

Jason Chen

David Vanderhoff

Nadine Truong

Charlotte Nettleship

Matt Wilson

Amy Yu

Jessica Davidson

Mara Pattison-Sowden

Elizabeth Janowski

Lucy Bates

Rebecca Dopson

Kirsten Rumbles

Helen McFadridge

Piers Leonard

Tom Foster

Rosanne Visser

Alison Holland

Kieren Monaghan

Jay Patani

Alana Marmion-Warr

Katie Clark

Peter Bolton

Michael Alhadeff

Dorothy Melander-Dayton

Zoe Milne

Nicky Branagh

Sheena Odwyer

157 158

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