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Schöneberg Schöneberg<br />

General Information General Information


Contents<br />

Contents<br />

1 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 2


<strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Tube Map<br />

3 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 4


History History<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> from 1237-1900<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> is a name which conjures many<br />

images: a city at the centre of war, a<br />

confl icted and divided city. A city, if<br />

you will, on the extremes.<br />

Having been the axis of so much of<br />

the world’s recent history, it might<br />

be easy to assume that this was all<br />

that <strong>Berlin</strong> had to offer in terms of<br />

historical interest. But this is not so.<br />

It has been said of <strong>Berlin</strong> that it is the<br />

centre of Germany just as Germany<br />

is the centre of Europe.<br />

In tracing back a few hundred years,<br />

it is possible to see how this came<br />

to be. Geographically speaking,<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> came into existence as an<br />

insignifi cant trade town situated<br />

in between the two older towns of<br />

Spandau and Cölln. This central<br />

position worked to <strong>Berlin</strong>’s favour as<br />

it continued to grow and enveloped<br />

both other towns within its own<br />

boundaries.<br />

Though <strong>Berlin</strong> can only date its own<br />

foundation from the fi rst extant<br />

mention of Cölln in 1237, it was <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

that, by the mid-fourteenth century,<br />

had become the most important<br />

trading town in Brandenburg, with<br />

its own City Council and Stadtbuch.<br />

By the time of the Reformation,<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> had become an important<br />

German town in its own right,<br />

particularly special to many being<br />

one of the fi rst cities in Europe to<br />

embrace Lutheranism. Because of<br />

this, many French Huguenots fl ed<br />

to <strong>Berlin</strong> bringing with them their<br />

intellectual and industrial talents.<br />

Even today, though the name<br />

“Huguenot” has become largely<br />

insignifi cant in modern-day<br />

Europe, this relationship between<br />

French Protestants and <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

is still celebrated in Mitte’s<br />

Gendarmenmarkt.<br />

Here the Französicher Dom and<br />

the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each<br />

other in design, are monuments to<br />

the great respect these two groups<br />

had for each other. Despite the years<br />

between Napoleon’s invasion of<br />

Brandenburg and the Cold War, when<br />

Franco-German relations were at a<br />

very low ebb, it is nice to see these<br />

two rivals still facing each other in<br />

friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt.<br />

Not only a trend-setter in religion,<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> became a leader in the<br />

Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,<br />

Friedrich the Great, transformed<br />

Prussia - with <strong>Berlin</strong> as its capital -<br />

into an enlightened, politically and<br />

economically strong and religiously<br />

tolerant state.<br />

Even defeats in the Thirty Years War<br />

failed to completely destroy Prussia’s<br />

supremacy. This in time transformed<br />

the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of<br />

the greatest in Europe, related by<br />

marriage to most of the great houses<br />

on the continent.<br />

This strength, nobility and stature<br />

were, along with the talents of<br />

5 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 6


History History<br />

Otto von Bismarck, one of the main<br />

reasons why <strong>Berlin</strong> and its monarchy<br />

became the head of the newly unifi ed<br />

Germany.<br />

Despite the later failures of this<br />

system in the early years of the<br />

20th century, this age of a strong<br />

and enlightened German Empire,<br />

led from <strong>Berlin</strong>, remained in the<br />

European psyche for many years.<br />

Jewish History of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

The history of the Jewish community<br />

is plagued by episodic persecution,<br />

Jews often being used as a scapegoat<br />

for economic and social woes.<br />

By 1295 Jewish people in <strong>Berlin</strong> were<br />

barred from many professions and<br />

effectively forbidden to become<br />

members of the artisan guilds.<br />

Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries<br />

Jews were expelled from <strong>Berlin</strong> and<br />

let back in time and again, accused<br />

of acts such as the rampant plague<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong> and Brandenburg, which<br />

had been sweeping across Europe;<br />

and host desecration; which meant<br />

that <strong>Berlin</strong> had virtually no Jewish<br />

community for a century.<br />

Between expulsions and being<br />

banned from most other trades, the<br />

Jewish people of <strong>Berlin</strong> successfully<br />

engaged in money lending and<br />

petty trade. They were confi ned<br />

to living in a ghetto in the Grosser<br />

Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on<br />

Judenstrasse (Jew Street).<br />

Following the devastation of the<br />

Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt<br />

to achieve an economic upswing by<br />

increasing population, the Great<br />

Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50<br />

prosperous Jewish families that were<br />

expelled from Vienna to settle in the<br />

Brandenburg region in 1671. They<br />

were permitted to stay under the<br />

condition that they pay an annual<br />

protection fee, engage in only<br />

certain businesses and worship only<br />

in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish<br />

community of <strong>Berlin</strong> was offi cially<br />

founded.<br />

Despite suffering restrictions on<br />

religion, residence and family size<br />

as well as extra taxes, the Jewish<br />

population of <strong>Berlin</strong> grew and by<br />

1700 the city’s Jewish slums had<br />

approximately 1,000 residents. In<br />

1714 the fi rst synagogue of <strong>Berlin</strong> was<br />

dedicated. As excellent merchants<br />

and bankers, by halfway through the<br />

18th century the Jewish community<br />

totaled close to 2,000 and they had<br />

become among the richest people in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Philosopher and scholar Moses<br />

Mendelssohn arrived in <strong>Berlin</strong> in<br />

1743, and urged Jews to integrate<br />

into secular society and by 1778 these<br />

enlightened ideas found expression<br />

in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish<br />

Free School) that combined religious<br />

learning with general education.<br />

Though the 1812 Emancipation<br />

Edict that declared Jewish people<br />

equal citizens was in the most<br />

part quickly retracted, there was<br />

a general loosening on Prussia’s<br />

restrictions and growing equality for<br />

its Jewish population. By 1869 the<br />

new North German Confederation<br />

passed a law on the equal rights of<br />

religious confession<br />

and declared the<br />

emancipation of<br />

Jewish people<br />

within its territory<br />

and by 1871 German<br />

Jews had equal<br />

rights. Within a<br />

few years members<br />

of the Jewish<br />

community rose to<br />

prominence in government, many<br />

as close advisors to the Kaiser. By<br />

the turn of the century, there were<br />

more than 110,000 Jews in <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />

comprising more than 5% of the total<br />

population.<br />

In the Weimer years (1919-1933)<br />

Jewish citizens of Germany and <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

enjoyed unprecedented levels of<br />

freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt<br />

taking the stage, Jewish composers<br />

including Arnold Schoenberg’s works<br />

being performed, Max Liebermann<br />

and Lesser Ury creating beautiful<br />

paintings and musicians such as the<br />

Comedian Harmonists at the height<br />

of popularity. The Jewish population<br />

continued to grow and by 1933<br />

160,000 Jews called <strong>Berlin</strong> home.<br />

At the same time anti-Semitism was<br />

on the rise and the years leading up<br />

to the ascendance of Nazi power saw<br />

increasing attacks on members of the<br />

Jewish community. Statebacked<br />

persecution<br />

ensued after the<br />

Nazis took power in<br />

1933, and with the<br />

1935<br />

Nüremberger<br />

Gesetze<br />

(Nuremberg<br />

Laws) the Jewish<br />

citizens of Germany<br />

were effectively<br />

deprived of social and<br />

economic rights via the introduction<br />

of apartheid-like classifi cations of<br />

“racial purity”.<br />

Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish<br />

community life increased as Jewish<br />

citizens were forced to send their<br />

7 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 8


History History<br />

children to segregated schools and<br />

forbidden from interacting with<br />

non-Jews. Those who could see the<br />

writing on the wall and had money<br />

escaped while they could, though<br />

even such escape was a limited<br />

opportunity, as other European<br />

countries, the US and Palestine all<br />

restricted Jewish immigration.<br />

In retaliation for the assassination<br />

of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath,<br />

who was killed by a 17-year-old<br />

Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the<br />

Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph<br />

Goebbels called for a nationwide<br />

pogrom on November 9th 1938.<br />

This night is known as<br />

Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken<br />

Glass, a nationwide attack on the<br />

Jewish people that resulted in the<br />

death of 36 of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s Jews, many<br />

were beaten on the streets while<br />

passers-by looked on; the destruction<br />

of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of<br />

hundreds of shops and businesses.<br />

German Jewish citizens were then<br />

required to pay one million marks to<br />

repair the damages.<br />

By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish<br />

citizens to wear a yellow star at all<br />

times, and the fi rst mass deportations<br />

from <strong>Berlin</strong> marked the beginning of<br />

the systematic large-scale genocide<br />

of German Jews. Before the end of<br />

the war over 55,000 Jewish residents<br />

of <strong>Berlin</strong> were deported.<br />

In January 1941 the Wannsee<br />

Conference resolved and planned the<br />

so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage<br />

(Final Solution to the Jewish<br />

Question) – the removal of all Jews<br />

to the East and, implicitly, their<br />

extermination. The Final Solution<br />

began to be put into effect, and<br />

life for the Jewish citizens in <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

became increasingly unbearable.<br />

All Jewish schools and institutions<br />

were closed down, the Jewish<br />

community was disbanded, Jewish<br />

citizens were banned from public<br />

transport, their food rations<br />

were reduced and thousands<br />

were deported, mostly to the<br />

Theresienstadt and Auschwitz<br />

concentration camps.<br />

By the end of the war,<br />

Hitler’s mass genocide<br />

had reduced <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

Jewish population by<br />

around 96 per cent to<br />

about 6,500. Survivors<br />

managed to escape<br />

death often through<br />

being hidden by gentile<br />

families at great<br />

personal risk or by<br />

evading fi nal round-ups<br />

through legal conditions<br />

such as irreplaceable<br />

skills vital to the war<br />

effort or being married to a non-Jew.<br />

Only about 2,000 returned from the<br />

concentration camps.<br />

In 1946 the Jewish community was<br />

offi cially recognized again as a<br />

public body, and a large number of<br />

Eastern European Jews immigrated<br />

to <strong>Berlin</strong>. As a result of intense<br />

anti-Semitic persecution in East<br />

Germany, many members of the<br />

Jewish community fl ed to the west.<br />

As a result, the Jewish community of<br />

East <strong>Berlin</strong> was almost non-existent,<br />

and even by 1988 the East German<br />

Jewish community had less than 200<br />

members.<br />

In West <strong>Berlin</strong>, the German Jewish<br />

community had about 6,000<br />

members, constituting<br />

the largest Jewish<br />

community in Germany.<br />

After the two <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Jewish communities<br />

were reunited with the<br />

fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall,<br />

the federal government<br />

approved refugee status<br />

for Jews from the former<br />

Soviet Union and since<br />

then over 50,000 Jewish<br />

people have immigrated<br />

to Germany, with <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

more than doubling its<br />

congregation members<br />

to over 12,000.<br />

Since reunifi cation several steps<br />

have been taken to preserve Jewish<br />

history including the opening of the<br />

Jewish Museum and the decision by<br />

the German Bundestag to erect the<br />

Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden<br />

Europas (Memorial for the Murdered<br />

Jews of Europe) according to the<br />

design by Peter Eisenman.<br />

9 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 10


History History<br />

The puzzle of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall<br />

An anti-capitalistic protective barrier<br />

with concrete pads, barbwire and<br />

watchtowers held the East German<br />

population from running away.<br />

“A wall is a hell of a lot better than<br />

war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon<br />

hearing about the construction of<br />

the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall.<br />

Nevertheless,<br />

for about<br />

28 years the<br />

160km long<br />

wall encased a<br />

whole nation.<br />

Between 1949<br />

and 1961,<br />

2 . 5 m i l l i o n<br />

p e o p l e<br />

escaped from<br />

the German<br />

Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying<br />

to get over the wall, or hiding in<br />

traffi c that was allowed to go through<br />

the barriers. The accurate number of<br />

people who were shot down when<br />

they tried to escape varies according<br />

to different sources. Many memorials<br />

give an account of the GDR fugitives’<br />

tragic destiny: bleeding to death<br />

after being shot by border patrol<br />

soldiers. Escape from the German<br />

republic was classifi ed as treason,<br />

punishable by death. There was<br />

nothing the Western <strong>Berlin</strong> police<br />

could do to stop this.<br />

A sad chapter in German history was<br />

put to an end when the Wall was<br />

torn down in 1989, and as a result<br />

the unifi cation of Germany ensued.<br />

Of over 100 watchtowers three<br />

are kept. Even some of the former<br />

border crossings<br />

are still clearly<br />

recognizable, with<br />

the most wellknown<br />

transition<br />

at Checkpoint<br />

Charlie.<br />

The wall was<br />

broken up and<br />

the remaining<br />

sections becoming<br />

memorials and<br />

museums for the<br />

fallen. The Todesstreifen (death<br />

zone) can still be seen in many<br />

places. Some have been left as<br />

large areas of brown, uncultivated<br />

land, while other parts have been<br />

turned into parks. The pieces of<br />

wall that were torn down and<br />

demolished were sent to museums<br />

and universities across the world,<br />

and made into souvenirs for tourists.<br />

Wall sections decorate, for example,<br />

the historic port in Cape Town, South<br />

Africa; the entrance of the Basilica<br />

Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal;<br />

the Vatican garden; the 6km long<br />

green stream Cheonggyecheon in<br />

South Korean city of Seoul; the EU<br />

Parliament in Belgium; as well as<br />

places in Strasbourg, Riga, London,<br />

Canberra and Montréal. The biggest<br />

Wall piece outside of Germany is<br />

located in “Freedom Park” near<br />

Arlington, Virginia.<br />

The well-known East Side Gallery was<br />

painted in 1990 by 118 artists from<br />

21 different countries; previously it<br />

was only allowed for West Germans.<br />

The Gallery is not just for the artistic<br />

exploration of the Wall’s demise, but<br />

for the memory of the dead refugees.<br />

During the Wall’s 20th anniversary<br />

former artists were brought to the<br />

capital city to remove the traces<br />

of the last 18 years. The graffi ti<br />

has suffered extensive damage<br />

due to visitors and attacks from<br />

Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).<br />

A €2.5 million renovation is underway<br />

and should be ready by Autumn<br />

General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg<br />

11 Information 12


History History<br />

2009. The maintenance of the wall<br />

plays a major role, since it is both<br />

an important monument to the<br />

reunifi cation, as well as a Certifi cate<br />

of European and world culture.<br />

Anyone can acquire a valuable<br />

memory in the form of a piece of the<br />

Wall. Pieces come in different sizes,<br />

which are also available online, up<br />

to $150. However, if you want to see<br />

more than just a 2x2cm piece, the<br />

opportunity as a tourist in <strong>Berlin</strong> is<br />

huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser<br />

Platz next to the Brandenburger<br />

Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer<br />

Strasse (National Monument, U<br />

Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße<br />

with the longest preserved part of<br />

the wall about 1.3km.<br />

Those interested in the history of<br />

the GDR and the fall of the Wall<br />

should defi nitely go to the following<br />

places. They will clear all important<br />

questions and satisfy your thirst for<br />

knowledge.<br />

City Museum of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

www.stadtmuseum.de<br />

Am Köllnischen Park 5<br />

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke<br />

Tel: +49 3 024 002 159<br />

Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm<br />

Wed 12-8pm<br />

Price: €4<br />

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie<br />

www.mauermuseum.de<br />

U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße<br />

Tel: +49 302 537 250<br />

Mo- Su 9am- 8pm<br />

Price: €7.50-12.50<br />

Chapel of Reconciliation<br />

www.kapelle-versoehnung.de<br />

Bernauerstr. 4<br />

Tel: +49 304 636 034<br />

Service to remember the victims<br />

(Sunday 10am)<br />

Tue-Sun 10am-5pm<br />

Topographie of Terror<br />

www.topographie.de<br />

Niederkirchnerstr. 8<br />

Tel: +49 3 025 450 950<br />

Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am-<br />

BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies<br />

Looking back on <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

history begs the question<br />

of how the bear became<br />

its symbol. Unfortunately<br />

it is not clear what was<br />

here fi rst; <strong>Berlin</strong> or the<br />

bear. It wasn’t until 1280<br />

when the bear became the<br />

heraldic animal of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Today its image is still<br />

used for advertisements<br />

on different logos,<br />

c e r t i f i c a t i o n s ,<br />

newspapers, publications,<br />

agencies, stamps and<br />

even more in and around<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>. The bear even<br />

became a permanent part<br />

of the city’s fl ag in 1908.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> bear art is scattered<br />

all over the city in the<br />

form of sculptures, plastic<br />

models and architecture,<br />

most of which are hidden<br />

amongst the less touristprone<br />

areas. Some have<br />

also just been rebuilt<br />

after they got eliminated<br />

or damaged during the<br />

Nazi regime. Today,<br />

especially in Prenzlauer<br />

Berg, there are many furry<br />

13 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 14


History History<br />

inhabitants decorating the<br />

streets. In the middle of<br />

the public Volkspark lives<br />

the most colorful bear<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>. He was born in<br />

1970 and fell pray to some<br />

graffi ti artists in the last<br />

couple of years. However<br />

they decided to keep him<br />

blue and call him Käpt’n<br />

Blaubär (Captain Blue<br />

bear) which is now a great<br />

attraction for children<br />

who know this bear from<br />

TV.<br />

At the Moabiter Bridge<br />

(Bartningallee) there<br />

are four different bears<br />

designed by four sculptors<br />

each at a different<br />

location. The bridge was<br />

built between 1893 and<br />

1894 and was rebuilt due<br />

to war damage between<br />

1980 and 1981. The stone<br />

bears are positioned on<br />

all fours and appear to<br />

be giant when standing<br />

in front of them, their<br />

huge paws and enormous<br />

claws making them<br />

appear even larger. Their<br />

bodies look big and round,<br />

nevertheless they do not<br />

appear as feared creatures but rather<br />

as cute clumsy bears, which delight<br />

the pedestrians who pass over the<br />

bridge. Around this area small cafes<br />

and a cozy restaurant at the Spree<br />

River invite everybody to sit down<br />

and relax.<br />

One of the most important bear art<br />

pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished<br />

fountain, which was rebuilt after<br />

being destroyed during World War<br />

II. Sutowski made his artwork out<br />

of red Lava Tuff stone which gives<br />

it an interesting pattern. This<br />

fountain is decorated with one bear<br />

in the center and eight smaller bears<br />

around, almost as if the mother bear<br />

is watching her children frolic.<br />

Some of the bear art pieces are also<br />

used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz<br />

had the idea to paint bear sculptures,<br />

sell them at auctions and give the<br />

money to UNICEF and other children<br />

aid organizations. In this way they<br />

could donate more than two million<br />

dollars in the last eight years. Jackie<br />

Chan even brought the idea of the<br />

United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.<br />

Everybody can support this project,<br />

take part in the competition and<br />

maybe get the chance to give a<br />

buddy bear a new fur colour.<br />

If you want to get a shot of this<br />

famous <strong>Berlin</strong> symbol- just keep your<br />

eyes open and wherever you may go<br />

you will always fi nd a bear.<br />

15 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 16


Survival Guide<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> is a lovely place to see and explore, but just<br />

to make your visit that much more enjoyable,<br />

we’ve gathered some useful information to help<br />

you get by in the city.<br />

Culture and etiquette<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> generally has a laid back and accepting<br />

attitude to most things, although there is an<br />

underlying sense of respect for rules and authority.<br />

• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon -<br />

offenders will more frequently be reprimanded<br />

by onlookers than the police.<br />

• Although a smoking ban was recently<br />

introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars.<br />

It is best to ask before you light up.<br />

• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,<br />

although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.<br />

Useful tips<br />

• For a quick view of the main <strong>Berlin</strong> area, bus routes 100 and 200 are<br />

double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the<br />

Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm-<br />

Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz.<br />

• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm.<br />

You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate.<br />

• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,<br />

with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are<br />

available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the<br />

nightlife lists are easy to decipher.<br />

• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for<br />

separate bins for plastic and glass.<br />

Survival Guide<br />

• Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.<br />

• There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and<br />

bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it<br />

to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to<br />

the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass<br />

needs to be returned to get your deposit back.<br />

• It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit<br />

cards.<br />

Transport<br />

The city has a well integrated and<br />

effi cient public transport network.<br />

At fi rst glance it may appear quite<br />

complex, but the interconnecting<br />

suburban (S-Bahn) and underground<br />

(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and<br />

bus services ensure you won’t be left<br />

stranded.<br />

The U-Bahn service closes between<br />

midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during<br />

the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at<br />

midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight<br />

where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.<br />

Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,<br />

undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand<br />

out fi nes of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!<br />

If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them<br />

before your journey.<br />

Cycling in <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffi c<br />

and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why<br />

17 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 18


Survival Guide<br />

don’t you cycle in <strong>Berlin</strong>? It’s fl atter<br />

than London and less chaotic than<br />

Amsterdam. With over 800kms of fl at<br />

land, parks, gardens and bike routes,<br />

look no further than <strong>Berlin</strong>’s cycling<br />

network.<br />

Many hostels will recommend or rent<br />

out bikes from a few hours to a few<br />

days, but if you are spending a few<br />

weeks or longer in <strong>Berlin</strong> it is wellworth<br />

investing your money in a bike.<br />

The average price to rent is €15 per<br />

day, and most places will hold onto<br />

a cash deposit or your passport until<br />

you bring the bike back.<br />

The best place to look for secondhand<br />

bikes are fl ea-markets,<br />

particularly Mauer Park,<br />

where you can pick up a<br />

bike for as little as €40.<br />

Important Information<br />

If you are hardcore and<br />

bring or buy your own bike,<br />

it’s best to remember the<br />

following, whether biking or<br />

walking:<br />

• Remember that traffi c is<br />

on the right-hand side of<br />

the road. Bike paths, even<br />

on the footpath, also follow<br />

this rule.<br />

• Buy a pump and tyre repair<br />

kit, or at least know a few<br />

locations of Bike Doctors,<br />

just in case. There is a lot of<br />

broken glass on the streets<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

• Get a good lock. The fl ea<br />

markets are quite cheap.<br />

• Look before walking across a bike<br />

path. Sometimes cyclists look for<br />

someone to get angry with and will<br />

verbally lash out.<br />

• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take<br />

your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside<br />

of rush hour). Bikes are free when<br />

you have a monthly ticket.<br />

• Get off your bike and walk in busy<br />

areas, or ride on the road.<br />

Fat Tire Bike Tours<br />

Survival Guide<br />

• Keep a good lookout when riding<br />

alongside pedestrians or cars. Both<br />

can be dangerous and you’re in the<br />

worst position to go fl ying.<br />

• Enjoy riding around <strong>Berlin</strong>. It is<br />

good fun, keeps you fi t and gets you<br />

around with a lot less stress.<br />

www.FatTireBikeTours<strong>Berlin</strong>.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:<br />

Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr<br />

16 – Sep 30).<br />

The perfect combination of getting to know <strong>Berlin</strong> and getting active is<br />

to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less<br />

time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.<br />

You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and<br />

past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy<br />

snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each<br />

place.<br />

There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent<br />

out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide<br />

Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.<br />

19 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 20


Survival Guide<br />

Airports<br />

Tegel Airport<br />

Tel: +49 1 805 000 186<br />

Tegel is 8km from the city centre,<br />

which is easy and cheap to reach<br />

by bus. The number 109 stops at<br />

Zoologischer Station, or you can<br />

catch the U-Bahn.<br />

Schönefeld<br />

Tel: +49 1 805 000 186<br />

South of the city centre, Bus 171<br />

can take you from the airport to<br />

Flughafen <strong>Berlin</strong> Schönefeld railway<br />

station. From there you can catch<br />

the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains<br />

into the city, 20kms away.<br />

Accommodation Information<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> has a number of hostels that<br />

provide all the necessary facilities:<br />

bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI;<br />

laundry facilities; plus added bonuses<br />

like leisure and entertainment<br />

facilities – bar; games room; TV room;<br />

and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes<br />

these are free or you may have to<br />

pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to<br />

go through these offers and decide<br />

what is important to you and what<br />

you can do without.<br />

Booking a bed is easy and can be<br />

done in a number of ways: online;<br />

telephone; or the olde traditional<br />

way…visit the hostel and book a<br />

bed there and then. Booking online<br />

however is quick, simple and often<br />

cheaper. You could book via the<br />

hostel’s website, but we recommend<br />

using hostel search engines such<br />

as HostelWorld.com. It is one of<br />

the easiest search engines to use,<br />

even for technophobes. Search by<br />

area, price or browse the customer<br />

ratings to fi nd the best hostel for<br />

you. Keep an eye out for discounts<br />

when booking online.<br />

How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash<br />

on arrival but each is different so<br />

keep that in mind when browsing.<br />

A small deposit is required when<br />

booking over the internet to ensure<br />

your bed is held, and is especially<br />

worth doing during busy holiday<br />

periods (May to September).<br />

Useful words/phrases<br />

English German<br />

Yes, No Ja, Nein<br />

Please Bitte<br />

You’re welcome Bitte<br />

Thank you Danke<br />

Good Morning Guten Morgen<br />

Good Day Guten Tag<br />

Good Evening Guten Abend<br />

Goodbye<br />

(informal)<br />

Tschüss<br />

Goodbye Auf<br />

(formal) Wiedersehen<br />

How are you? Wie geht es<br />

(formal) Ihnen?<br />

How are you?<br />

(informal)<br />

Wie geht’s?<br />

Today Heute<br />

Tomorrow Morgen<br />

Yesterday Gestern<br />

Excuse me Entschuldigung<br />

Where is...? Wo ist...?<br />

How, When, Wie, Wann,<br />

Why?<br />

Warum?<br />

Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen<br />

Men’s toilets Herren/Männer<br />

Survival Guide<br />

Entrance Eingang<br />

Exit Ausgang<br />

I would like... Ich möchte...<br />

Do you speak Sprechen Sie<br />

English? Englisch?<br />

1 eins<br />

2 zwei<br />

3 drei<br />

4 vier<br />

5 fünf<br />

6 sechs<br />

7 sieben<br />

8 acht<br />

9 neun<br />

10 zehn<br />

20 zwanzig<br />

50 fünfzig<br />

100 ein hundert<br />

21 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 22


Day Trips<br />

Day trips out of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

When you just need some time out<br />

from the hustle and bustle of crazy<br />

city life, hop on a train and see<br />

what the end of the line holds. From<br />

castles to beaches and even fi lm<br />

studioes, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s surroundings are<br />

just as fun as the inner city.<br />

Potsdam<br />

S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof<br />

for regional trains.<br />

Only twenty minutes by train,<br />

Potsdam has just as much history as<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>. With the royal Park Sanssouci<br />

and the fi lm park Babelsberg, there<br />

are many activities to fi ll your<br />

time. Historically Potsdam has been<br />

around since AD 993, although it was<br />

bombed heavily during World War II.<br />

Potsdam is a small town and the<br />

main street is your average cafe<br />

and shopping strip. A lot of buildings<br />

are also being rebuilt. Wander a<br />

little further and you will fi nd the<br />

original Brandenburger Tor, smaller<br />

but still impressive. The royal palace<br />

- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to<br />

the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The<br />

important Potsdam Conference was<br />

held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies<br />

all met to discuss how to deal with<br />

Germany after World War II.<br />

When you walk from town, take the<br />

back entrance into Park Sanssouci.<br />

Walk through Friedenskirche, Church<br />

of Peace, where the view between<br />

the concrete pillars will make you<br />

feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking<br />

out into a splash of colour with the<br />

lake, trees and fl owers in full bloom.<br />

Day Trips<br />

Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the<br />

1745 and 1747, is fl anked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700<br />

side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and<br />

paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.<br />

Friedrich’s summer palace stands<br />

above four layers of steps, gardens<br />

and greenhouses – these were<br />

built into the walls to protect the<br />

hundreds of fi g trees during winter.<br />

Maybe they were a personal favourite<br />

of Friedrich the Great?<br />

Head back to town and take in<br />

the fi lm park Babelsberg. This was<br />

where many fi lms, including those of<br />

the silent era and Nazi propaganda<br />

were produced. It is still an active<br />

and important part of European fi lm<br />

production. Some of the more recent<br />

Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace fi lms produced there include The<br />

built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;<br />

guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,<br />

overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.<br />

23 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 24


Day Trips<br />

Freibad Müggelsee<br />

Fürstenwalder Damm 838,<br />

Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777.<br />

S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61:<br />

Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept<br />

9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions.<br />

Though not <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most central<br />

swimming area, this is a perfectly<br />

pleasant sunny day outing. With<br />

volleyball and basketball courts,<br />

snacks and drinks for sale, and a<br />

restaurant close by, this inland beach<br />

on the north shore of East <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

biggest lake boasts a large sunbathing<br />

and swimming area.<br />

Although a sandy forefront, the<br />

water is natural and fl at. It’s great<br />

for throwing a ball around and<br />

playing horse with your friends. As<br />

the beach does get quite crowded,<br />

especially on sunny weekends,<br />

getting there early to claim a prime<br />

sun-bathing spot is recommended.<br />

From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes<br />

about 45 minutes.<br />

The Freikörperkultur (nudist)<br />

section of the beach is separated<br />

from the Freibad (open-air bathing<br />

area) by 200m of forest. If you’re<br />

interested in experiencing some of<br />

Germany’s nudist culture get off<br />

the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/<br />

Müggelseedamm for the FKK section<br />

of the beach. Tourists who are just<br />

there to gawk will be treated with<br />

some hostility, so make sure you’re<br />

ready to fully participate in this<br />

aspect of German culture if you<br />

choose to visit the nudist area.<br />

Krumme Lanke<br />

S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open<br />

all day, every day; free.<br />

Allied Museum: www.<br />

alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-<br />

Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun<br />

10am-6pm.<br />

Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex<br />

Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee<br />

Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun<br />

10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch<br />

Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop<br />

“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.<br />

If you’re looking for a change from<br />

the busy and hectic city centre, a<br />

short trip to Schlachtensee Station is<br />

a great way to spend a relaxing (and<br />

free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk<br />

from the station, Krumme Lanke<br />

is surrounded by the trees of the<br />

Grunewald Forest and can provide<br />

the tranquillity and rest your feet so<br />

much desire. It’s possible to swim,<br />

row and walk around in the area, and<br />

you can grab lunch from a cheap but<br />

cheerful café next to the station.<br />

Currywurst, bratwurst and more go<br />

Day Trips<br />

for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get<br />

quite busy, so head there early to<br />

claim a spot.<br />

If you can’t beat your sightseeing<br />

addiction, nearby is the Allied<br />

museum, good for a visual<br />

understanding of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Airlift<br />

and American presence in the city<br />

during much of the 20th century.<br />

Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,<br />

where the Nazis mapped out the<br />

fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.<br />

All in all an enjoyable day out worth<br />

having if just to see another side to<br />

the multifaced city.<br />

25 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 26


Day Trips<br />

S a c h s e n h a u s e n<br />

Concentration Camp and<br />

Memorial<br />

www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen.<br />

de. Memorial and Museum<br />

Sachsenhausen. Straße der<br />

Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn:<br />

Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000.<br />

Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free.<br />

Reminders of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s turbulent past<br />

are all over the city, however a visit to<br />

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp<br />

near Oranienberg is particularly<br />

thought-provoking and encompasses<br />

the many horrors of recent German<br />

history.<br />

The camp was built in 1936 under<br />

Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler<br />

as a model for future concentration<br />

camps. Between 1936 and 1945<br />

more than 200,000 people were<br />

interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially,<br />

the majority of these prisoners<br />

were political opponents of Hitler’s<br />

government: communists, social<br />

democrats and trade unionists. This<br />

soon widened to include anyone<br />

that the Nazis deemed as racially<br />

or biologically inferior such as<br />

homosexuals and Jews.<br />

During this period, tens of thousands<br />

died at the camp from starvation,<br />

forced labour, mistreatment and<br />

extermination. Soviet<br />

and Polish forces<br />

liberated the camp on<br />

April 22, 1945 - sadly<br />

however, 300 of the<br />

remaining inmates died<br />

from malnutrition and<br />

illnesses before they had<br />

the chance to leave. The<br />

mass grave in which these<br />

prisoners are interred is<br />

a particularly distressing<br />

part of the camp.<br />

The horrors of<br />

Sachsenhausen did not<br />

cease after the fall of the<br />

Nazis. From August 1945<br />

the Soviet secret police<br />

reopened the camp for<br />

the detention of their<br />

own political prisoners<br />

and war criminals;<br />

this included anyone<br />

suspected of opposition.<br />

By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners<br />

of war, suspected former Nazis and<br />

Soviet political dissenters, were<br />

incarcerated there. After the fall of<br />

Day Trips<br />

the GDR the remains of some 10,000<br />

prisoners were found in mass graves.<br />

The extensive horrors which took<br />

place at Sachsenhausen during the<br />

Nazi and GDR years are memorialised<br />

by the national monument that<br />

towers over the grounds.<br />

The barren landscape<br />

and the original barracks,<br />

prison and security fencing<br />

are eerily suggestive of<br />

the extensive suffering<br />

which occurred. In<br />

particular the grim<br />

sights of the mortuary,<br />

living quarters and<br />

infi rmary invite visitors to<br />

contemplate experiences<br />

of the prisoners. Invest<br />

in the audio guide for €3<br />

in order to fully grasp<br />

the harrowing historical<br />

importance of the site.<br />

First-hand accounts<br />

displayed in the museums<br />

and played on the audio<br />

guide serve to emphasise<br />

the traumatic effect<br />

Hitler’s fascist rule had on<br />

millions of lives.<br />

A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eyeopening<br />

experience which reiterates<br />

the cold reality of World War II and<br />

the subsequent Soviet regime.<br />

27 General Schöneberg Information General Schöneberg Information 28


Mitte Information<br />

Unter den Linden is one of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

most famous Boulevards, a 1.5kmlong<br />

stretch panning east from the<br />

Brandenburg Gate up to Museum<br />

Island. Developed as a showpiece<br />

since the 18th<br />

century, where<br />

it was then<br />

used as a horseriding<br />

route<br />

to Tiergarten,<br />

the road has<br />

become a<br />

gallery for<br />

some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

greatest sights.<br />

Museum Island<br />

is a must see,<br />

with some of<br />

the worlds<br />

fi nest art and sculpture. Whilst<br />

in the area, a quick diversion<br />

to the governmental quarter of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> is defi antly worthwhile. The<br />

Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped<br />

bend of the Spree River, houses<br />

several buildings running in an eastwest<br />

direction to symbolically tie the<br />

two halves of the city together. The<br />

Reichstag, situated in the middle of<br />

this unison, is a favourite amongst<br />

visitors, as the glass dome gives<br />

spectacular views across the city.<br />

Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander<br />

Platz is perhaps one of the busiest<br />

places found in <strong>Berlin</strong>. Cluttered with<br />

shops, a central station and various<br />

fountains, it is something to be seen<br />

if only for the novelty. And of course,<br />

it is home to<br />

the communist<br />

commissioned TV<br />

Tower - a great<br />

landmark to<br />

locate yourself<br />

with when lost.<br />

Pretty much<br />

deserted during<br />

the GDR era,<br />

the Spandauer<br />

Vorstadt has been<br />

overtaken by<br />

squatters, artists<br />

and anyone<br />

with a fl air for renovation. Its focal<br />

point lies in Hackeschen Markt and<br />

the bustling streets surrounding it,<br />

crammed with busy (and expensive)<br />

restaurants and shops. The area to<br />

the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse<br />

and the touristy Oranienburger<br />

Strasse – formed the heart of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

pre-war Jewish district. At the end<br />

of Oranienburger Strasse lies the<br />

graffi ti-covered Tachles, an anarchic<br />

1990s artists’ squat still preserved as<br />

such today, providing a good starting<br />

point for <strong>Berlin</strong>’s nightlife.<br />

29 Mitte Mitte 30


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Brandenburg Gate<br />

Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den<br />

Linden, Bus 100/200.<br />

Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans<br />

and built in 1791, the Brandenburg<br />

Gate has become a focal point in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s turbulent history. Originally,<br />

it was recognised as a symbol of<br />

German solidarity, as it looks out onto<br />

the impressive Siegessäule, marking<br />

Prussian military victories. With<br />

many of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s main roads leading<br />

towards it, the Gate is something<br />

almost impossible to miss.<br />

The site has witnessed many<br />

important events in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history,<br />

including being a meeting place for<br />

revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a<br />

favoured rallying point for the Nazis’<br />

torch-lit marches; and with the wall<br />

enclosing the Gate in the Eastern<br />

sector in 1961, it soon became a<br />

symbol of the city’s division. Nearby<br />

observation posts became a hot spot<br />

for visiting politicians, including<br />

Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them<br />

a rare glimpse at life on the other<br />

side.<br />

Sitting on top of the Gate is the<br />

equally historic Quadriga, the horsedrawn<br />

chariot that was once snatched<br />

up by Napoleon and relocated to<br />

France (only to be returned to its<br />

original home a few years later). The<br />

GDR also did its own fi ddling with the<br />

statue, including the removal of the<br />

cross and it being turned around to<br />

face the West during the cold-war<br />

era.<br />

Today, the Gate serves as a tourist<br />

must-see, with families and<br />

travellers posing for photos in front<br />

of the impressive structure.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> Hauptbanhof<br />

www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1.<br />

Nicknamed the “glass cathedral”<br />

by locals, this central station offers<br />

not only an easy route to almost<br />

anywhere in <strong>Berlin</strong> and Europe,<br />

but also a master class in glass and<br />

steel architecture. The Gothic-style<br />

construction was built primarily<br />

for the 2006 football World Cup,<br />

and hosts many shops, eateries and<br />

meeting points one would expect in<br />

such a large station.<br />

Designed by two Hamburg-based<br />

architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and<br />

Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s<br />

biggest train hub, boasting a capacity<br />

of 300,000 travellers, running on<br />

1,100 trains per day. Unlike other<br />

stations in <strong>Berlin</strong> and across Europe,<br />

its cleanliness and peacefulness are<br />

dominant, with little to no graffi ti or<br />

rubbish in sight.<br />

Since its initial drawing-board stages,<br />

the station was always planned<br />

to observe a north-south, eastwest<br />

axis, cutting through the long<br />

circle line. This axis now serves as<br />

a symbolic central point of Europe,<br />

with trains coming from Rome and<br />

Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.<br />

Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines<br />

going through this station and you<br />

will get a great tour of the main sights<br />

of Mitte, including the Reichstag,<br />

the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you<br />

don’t have a need to travel, simply<br />

a quick trip here to look around is<br />

worthwhile as the architecture is<br />

remarkable.<br />

31 Mitte Mitte 32


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Neue Wache<br />

(New Guard House)<br />

Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter<br />

den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm.<br />

Entrance Free.<br />

Teeming with important historical<br />

sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably<br />

fascinating yet sometimes<br />

exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New<br />

Guard House) is perfect for quiet<br />

contemplation: a momentary repose<br />

amidst a hectic day of sightseeing.<br />

The mourning sculpture by Käthe<br />

Kollwitz stands alone in the centre<br />

of the room, as a powerful symbol of<br />

the emotional torment that ensued<br />

after the Second World War.<br />

It was the fi rst building designed by<br />

the important German architect Karl<br />

Friedrich Schinkel in <strong>Berlin</strong> (1816-<br />

1818). It notably emphasizes the<br />

popular German Neo-Classical style<br />

of architecture, which swept through<br />

Germany in the 19th century. Until<br />

the end of the monarchy in 1918,<br />

the Neue Wache functioned as the<br />

royal guard house. Since then, this<br />

compact, yet simultaneously stately<br />

building has served as a memorial for<br />

victims of war.<br />

The German architect Heinrich<br />

Tessenow fi rst made changes to<br />

the building in 1930-31, creating a<br />

“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the<br />

Great War”. He inserted the oculus<br />

in the centre of the ceiling, through<br />

which light fi lters into the dark<br />

chamber, creating an atmospheric<br />

Neue and almost eerie sensation – when<br />

the building isn’t packed with<br />

tourists.<br />

Bombing from the Second World War<br />

left the building scarred, and as a<br />

result, in need of serious repair. From<br />

1960, the GDR restored the building,<br />

renaming it “Memorial to the Victims<br />

of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the<br />

chamber, an eternal fl ame burned.<br />

In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the<br />

remains of an Unknown Soldier and<br />

concentration camp prisoner. In<br />

1993, after German reunifi cation,<br />

the hall was declared as the “Central<br />

Memorial of the Federal Republic of<br />

Germany”. Having been described as<br />

a “monumentally void interior hall”,<br />

the Neue Wache is nonetheless<br />

worth a visit for its atmospheric and<br />

emotional resonance.<br />

Fernsehturm<br />

www.berlinerfernsehturm.de.<br />

Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn:<br />

Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333.<br />

Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am-<br />

12am. Price: €4.50-9.50.<br />

Towering above <strong>Berlin</strong>, the<br />

Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as<br />

a beacon for visitors and locals alike<br />

to orientate themselves, since it can<br />

be seen from all corners of the city.<br />

The structure offers 360˚ views of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> with a rotating café on the<br />

Nikolaiviertel<br />

(St Nicholas Quarter)<br />

U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined<br />

ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-<br />

Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free<br />

Wednesdays.<br />

A short walk from bustling<br />

Alexanderplatz one fi nds a quiet<br />

square centred around the<br />

Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.<br />

Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel<br />

appears to be one of the last<br />

remainders of medieval <strong>Berlin</strong>, aside<br />

from the Nikolaikirche, founded in<br />

1240, most of the original buildings<br />

in this area were either destroyed by<br />

bombing or pulled down during the<br />

1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist<br />

of irony, many buildings were rebuilt<br />

in 1987 by the GDR government<br />

to look like the originals, using<br />

photographs from the 1920s as<br />

reference.<br />

For historic interest, there is a series<br />

of placards on various buildings<br />

in the area giving information on<br />

personalities who lived there or<br />

events which took place. In terms of<br />

museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,<br />

the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-<br />

Palais, together offering a fairly<br />

comprehensive portrait of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

history from its foundation to the<br />

33 Mitte Mitte 34


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

nineteenth century.<br />

This is a neighbourhood that plays<br />

on its medieval heritage as much as<br />

possible, from cafés proclaiming to<br />

have been established in the 13th<br />

century, to antiquarian booksellers<br />

taking advantage of the archaic<br />

atmosphere. However, there is<br />

an obvious attempt to cash in on<br />

this – you will fi nd a lot of souvenir<br />

shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and<br />

the restaurants tend to be a little<br />

overpriced. The square also backs<br />

onto the river which offers more<br />

restaurants and a nice spot to eat or<br />

rest.<br />

upper fl oor, completing one rotation<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

The Fernsehturm is 368m high and<br />

was completed in 1969. The tower<br />

was built with the intention of<br />

demonstrating how technologically<br />

advanced the East was. This symbol<br />

of progress became a source of<br />

embarrassment for the German<br />

government. When hit with direct<br />

sunlight, the tower creates the<br />

refl ection of a cross, the same<br />

symbol the government had tried so<br />

hard to banish. The West Germans<br />

called this “the Pope’s Revenge”<br />

since all crosses had been removed<br />

from East German churches. No<br />

matter what the East Germans did,<br />

the cross remained.<br />

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe<br />

www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.<br />

Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,<br />

Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.<br />

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city<br />

and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each<br />

block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The<br />

memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to fi nd their own path<br />

through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through<br />

the memorial for wheelchair users.<br />

The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,<br />

gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between<br />

1933 and 1945. Photographs,<br />

personal accounts and biographies<br />

emphasise the harsh reality of<br />

the harassment, expulsion, and<br />

extermination of entire families.<br />

Here you can fi nd information<br />

that documents the geographic<br />

spread of genocide as well as being<br />

presented with the number of<br />

victims from each occupied country<br />

further highlighting the extent of<br />

these horrifi c events. There is also<br />

a room where visitors can search<br />

for victims’ names in a database<br />

that contains more than three<br />

million entries.<br />

Although admission is free, audio<br />

guides available for €3. If you visit<br />

on a Sunday at 4pm you can take<br />

the guided tour, in English, also at<br />

a cost of €3.<br />

35 Mitte Mitte 36


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Hamburger Bahnhof<br />

www.smb.museum/smb/hbf/.<br />

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof.<br />

Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open:<br />

Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3<br />

concession.<br />

An abstract collection of works,<br />

from German artist and theorist<br />

Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol,<br />

are displayed beneath the roof of<br />

this former railway station turned<br />

contemporary art museum. Open<br />

since 1996, the surreal collection<br />

has been in the making since the<br />

mid 1970’s, and highlights both the<br />

limitless boundaries of abstract art<br />

and the strong association Beuys<br />

had with some of the art world’s<br />

most unconventional and reputable<br />

artists.<br />

A modest glimpse into the bizarre<br />

and borderline ridiculous nature<br />

of contemporary modern art itself,<br />

the gallery undeniably reeks of<br />

inspiration and creativity that either<br />

inspires or repels the passing masses.<br />

Although guaranteed to split the<br />

opinions of visitors, the collection is<br />

well worth a look if not for ‘what is’<br />

displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed.<br />

Most visitors pop in for a quick<br />

glimpse of the numerous original<br />

works on display from pop arts front<br />

man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’<br />

(1973). The real gems are found in<br />

the quotes scattered around from the<br />

charismatic and controversial Joseph<br />

Beuys, the clashing placement of<br />

life-like pieces opposing walls of<br />

absurdity, and the general conceited<br />

nature of many of the passing<br />

visitors.<br />

Neue Synagoge<br />

(New Synagogue)<br />

www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger<br />

Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />

Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr.<br />

Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs<br />

10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed<br />

on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays.<br />

Cupola open to visitors April-<br />

September. Price: €1-5.<br />

The New Synagogue of <strong>Berlin</strong> with<br />

its golden cupola rises high above<br />

the center of the city. Though it has<br />

faced desecration and destruction,<br />

it still remains a city landmark. Built<br />

in 1866, the synagogue was once the<br />

center of Jewish worship housing<br />

over 3000 congregants.<br />

The rise of the Nazis, though,<br />

hindered this community. During the<br />

November 1938 pogroms, known as<br />

Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where<br />

most Jewish sites were vandalized<br />

and damaged, this synagogue was<br />

salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the<br />

district police chief of the time,<br />

who forced the arsonists to leave<br />

claiming it was under protection as<br />

a city landmark.<br />

Although services continued<br />

afterwards until 1940, it was then<br />

taken over and used as a storage<br />

place for uniforms. Consequently in<br />

1943, the synagogue was bombed by<br />

the Allied Forces, severely damaging<br />

it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall<br />

was torn down, only the front of the<br />

building remaining.<br />

However in 1988, the main dome<br />

and the two corner towers were<br />

restored to look exactly as they<br />

37 Mitte Mitte 38


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

did before the destruction. It now<br />

functions as a community center<br />

and contains a permanent exhibit,<br />

titled “Open ye the Gates”, which<br />

features pictures and documents on<br />

Jewish history, and more specifi cally<br />

the synagogue’s history, as well as<br />

showcasing artifacts found during<br />

the restoration. The upper fl oor is<br />

used for temporary exhibits as well<br />

as ceremonies and lectures. The<br />

synagogue is still used for services,<br />

though only seating eighty members<br />

as it is no longer the main synagogue<br />

of the Jewish community.<br />

Reichstag<br />

Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter<br />

den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027.<br />

Mon-Sun 8am-12am.<br />

One of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most striking<br />

landmarks, the Reichstag, which<br />

today houses the German parliament,<br />

has undoubtedly played a pivotal role<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history and is defi nitely<br />

worth a visit. The original imposing<br />

neoclassical facade is contrasted<br />

with a striking glass cupola supported<br />

by a soaring mirrored column, which<br />

offers stunning 360-degree views<br />

across the city.<br />

The Reichstag was built in the late<br />

19th century as a parliamentary<br />

offi ce, but in reality had little purpose<br />

under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I.<br />

In 1918 the Weimar Republic was<br />

declared here from a window by<br />

Philip Scheidemann and for the<br />

next 15 years it controlled the fi rst<br />

democratic body in Germany. The<br />

Reichstag fi re in 1933 however gave<br />

Hitler the perfect opportunity to<br />

exercise an emergency degree, thus<br />

effectively allowing him dictatorial<br />

power over the country.<br />

At the end of World War II the<br />

Reichstag was symbolic of the<br />

Allied victory, when Russian soldiers<br />

positioned the Soviet fl ag on the<br />

roof. The building was then left<br />

mainly unoccupied until the fall<br />

of the wall in 1990, when the<br />

government of a reunifi ed Germany<br />

fi nally decided to resurrect it as its<br />

new parliament. Following extensive<br />

remodeling under plans from British<br />

architect Sir Norman Foster, it once<br />

again provides a cornerstone of<br />

the Regierungsviertel (government<br />

quarter) in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Queues are expected, arrive very<br />

early or late in the day to avoid<br />

disappointment. Tours in English<br />

offered on Tuesdays (outside of<br />

parliamentary sessions), book in<br />

advance.<br />

B u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m<br />

(Museum of Letters)<br />

w w w. b u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m . d e .<br />

Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn:<br />

Spittelmarkt. Tel: +49 1 774 201 587.<br />

View by appointment only.<br />

If you are interested in letterforms,<br />

Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit.<br />

The museum is made up of two rooms<br />

of large-scale type examples, mostly<br />

interesting signage from buildings.<br />

The space is small, but there is still<br />

plenty to look at. They have a good<br />

variety of different type styles, from<br />

modern san serifs to black letter.<br />

It is great to see attention brought<br />

to an area of design which is often<br />

39 Mitte Mitte 40


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Tacheles<br />

www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr.<br />

54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr.<br />

Tel: +49 302 826 185.<br />

Originally created as a non-profi t<br />

organisation, a vision that it still<br />

retains to this day, Tacheles is<br />

currently a key centre<br />

for art creation and<br />

exhibition near the<br />

centre of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Not to be confused<br />

with the separate<br />

collection of bars,<br />

commonly referred to<br />

as Studio 54, that are<br />

scattered behind and<br />

in the lower section<br />

of the building, it<br />

aims to focus on the<br />

creative processes<br />

behind art and tries<br />

to do away with the<br />

organisational ties<br />

that offi cial museums<br />

hold. Housed in an old<br />

department department store, the the building has a<br />

strong appeal with graffi ti adorning<br />

every visible space, and all sorts of<br />

characters roaming freely within.<br />

As a result of its volatile history and<br />

unique atmosphere it holds a strong<br />

attraction for tourists, especially<br />

backpackers, as well as the artists<br />

from all over the world that head<br />

there to work and live.<br />

The Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles<br />

was built at the beginning of the 20th<br />

century as a large enclosed space for<br />

small businesses, before becoming<br />

a department store, and has since<br />

served many purposes including<br />

housing an SS offi ce.<br />

The building was<br />

damaged during the<br />

Second World War<br />

and only occasionally<br />

used throughout the<br />

Cold War. The section<br />

that stands today is<br />

just a small part of<br />

the original building.<br />

In 1990, shortly<br />

after the collapse<br />

of the wall and two<br />

months before the<br />

building was due to<br />

be demolished, an<br />

artists’ initiative<br />

group called Tacheles,<br />

which translates as<br />

plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied<br />

the building. From then on the future<br />

of the building, and the non-profi t<br />

organisation housed within, has been<br />

far from certain. A lease was agreed<br />

with the current owners, with a token<br />

rent of €0.50 paid each month. This<br />

lease has recently expired however,<br />

and with the property owner’s bank<br />

seeking administration rights, it is<br />

more uncertain than ever before as<br />

to the future of this unique cultural<br />

site. Problems are also had with the<br />

various bars, also on site, which all<br />

originally had leases agreed with<br />

the Tacheles organisation. Currently<br />

only one bar continues to pay rent<br />

and this causes a large amount of<br />

tension.<br />

Despite the ongoing legal wrangling<br />

and the internal problems it has,<br />

Tacheles still has plans and high<br />

hopes for the future. These include<br />

the creation of a foundation to<br />

support non-profi t cultural projects;<br />

the formation of a limited company<br />

to outsource economic activities;<br />

the creation of a sculpture park<br />

on the roof and the expansion of<br />

brand marketing to gain revenue for<br />

cultural projects.<br />

Tacheles is key to retaining the<br />

spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for<br />

art’s sake’ attitude brought about<br />

in its formation almost 20 years<br />

ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable<br />

position to take, and arguably the<br />

cornerstone that makes Tacheles<br />

such an attraction today, it is also<br />

an aspect that causes it to struggle<br />

in a modern world dominated<br />

by profi table organisations and<br />

establishments with a heavilyrefi<br />

ned corporate image. Despite<br />

this though, and the uncertain future<br />

ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the<br />

original aims of the organisation into<br />

the future and create an artistic<br />

legacy for generations to come.<br />

Mitte 41 Mitte 42


Arts & Culture Food & Drink<br />

Hackesche Höfe<br />

Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn:<br />

Hackesche Markt.<br />

The ivy grows up the walls, framing<br />

the windows and even trying to<br />

creep into them. One courtyard has<br />

a children’s play area, another has a<br />

small fountain.<br />

A newly refurbished complex<br />

of buildings that run from<br />

Oranienburgerstrasse and<br />

Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse<br />

is what makes up the 20th century<br />

Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard)<br />

complex.<br />

Originally designed by Kurt Berendt<br />

and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe<br />

was damaged during the war, but<br />

has since been restored to a place of<br />

many means.<br />

Although the buildings above are<br />

offi ces and apartments, the nine<br />

interconnecting courtyards are fi lled<br />

with bars, restaurants, boutiques and<br />

even its own theatre. The courtyards<br />

are beautiful and green, transporting<br />

you away from the hustle and bustle<br />

of the city.<br />

Designer shops sport trendy clothes,<br />

quirky ornaments and arty books.<br />

The Ampelman store is hidden in one<br />

of the courtyards where you can buy<br />

merchandise with the little green<br />

‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men.<br />

In a city developing so fast, and new<br />

concrete structures appearing daily,<br />

it’s nice to have a hidden piece of<br />

natural beauty in the city.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s Street Food<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. In fact, it may be the best<br />

part of <strong>Berlin</strong> for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers<br />

can fi nd stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst.<br />

In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese takeout<br />

may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and<br />

fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry<br />

powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the<br />

sauce if it’s not to your taste.<br />

Chips are found on many a street corner as well. Besides the usual dipping<br />

sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a<br />

little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry<br />

to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location<br />

to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger<br />

Strasse across from Studio 54.<br />

Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in the numerous <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to<br />

eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up<br />

great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are<br />

also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight in these establishments<br />

are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no more than €2 for either<br />

a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large<br />

sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo.<br />

While <strong>Berlin</strong> can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and<br />

shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though<br />

it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great<br />

setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and<br />

then burn them away.<br />

43 Mitte Mitte 44


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Zur Letzten Instanz<br />

www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse,<br />

Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12pm-1am.<br />

From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are<br />

immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll<br />

fi nd yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented<br />

the Zur Letzten Instanz. His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they<br />

squirm to fi nd a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been<br />

designed to fi t the Lilliputian emperor.<br />

Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery<br />

stands as <strong>Berlin</strong>’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621.<br />

The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched<br />

charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet<br />

reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booze ups.<br />

The food is typical <strong>Berlin</strong> style: Pickled pigs knuckles, bloodwurst, red cabbage<br />

and dumplings. But the fl agship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful<br />

roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almost impossible<br />

to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore<br />

the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone<br />

bisecting the impossibly tender fl esh. A must have for meat lovers.<br />

A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16.<br />

Theodor Tucher<br />

www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/.<br />

Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den<br />

Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon-<br />

Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25<br />

This gem could easily be shrugged<br />

off, taken for another overpriced,<br />

posh, tourist trap. However Theodor<br />

Tucher, tucked away in the right<br />

hand corner of Pariser<br />

Platz under the<br />

looming shadow of the<br />

Brandenburger Tor,<br />

offers so much more<br />

than good, if a little<br />

pricey, fare.<br />

The dining area is<br />

quite large, both<br />

inside and outside<br />

and it is possible to<br />

choose a seat with an<br />

armrest, looking out<br />

over the square for an<br />

afternoon of drinking<br />

and people watching.<br />

The highlight of Theodor Tucher is<br />

their Lunch-special trio, changing<br />

daily to fi t the mood of the chef.<br />

The small plates range from chicken<br />

and potatoes with mustard sauce to<br />

a goat risotto. Included in the special<br />

price of €13.90, a dessert also comes<br />

at the end of the meal.<br />

Those looking for something else<br />

will fi nd it hard to choose between<br />

a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic,<br />

fresh salads topped with spiced nuts<br />

and fried pita bread, hearty meatand-potato<br />

stews or freshly dressed<br />

baguettes, just to name a few. The<br />

desserts will also surely tantalize<br />

the diner with plates such as mousse<br />

of rose petals with chocolate<br />

medallions and<br />

mango salad. There is<br />

even something new<br />

to discover with their<br />

fresh selection of<br />

unique drinks such as<br />

strawberry punch and<br />

red-currant spritzer,<br />

crisp juices that come<br />

in a jug, rather than a<br />

single glass.<br />

After a delicious<br />

meal in this small<br />

café, the diner can<br />

head upstairs to the<br />

literary house, a<br />

loft with hardwood<br />

fl oors, walls lined with old books and<br />

old Victorian style furniture. This<br />

upstairs haven is nearly soundproof,<br />

blocking out the clamor of the other<br />

diners below, leaving the guest in a<br />

relaxed stupor for however long they<br />

would like to visit after their meal.<br />

Mitte 45 Mitte 46


Nightlife Nightlife<br />

Strand Bar Mitte<br />

www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße<br />

1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz.<br />

Mon-Sun 10am-late.<br />

Strand Bar Mitte is well known for<br />

having started the urban beach bar<br />

trend, for which <strong>Berlin</strong> is now famous.<br />

This unique bar sits alongside the<br />

River Spree, overlooking Museum<br />

Island. Connected to the theatre<br />

next door, it is a fantastic place to sit<br />

and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable<br />

prices. Lounge in the comfy deck<br />

chairs by the river and watch the<br />

world go by, or try your hand at salsa<br />

on the dance fl oor.<br />

Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is<br />

a delightfully relaxed environment<br />

which is frequented by all ages.<br />

Watch out for the setting sun tinting<br />

the façade of the Bodemuseum<br />

across the river; it is particularly<br />

beautiful. The fairy lights, urban<br />

beach and deck-chairs all add to<br />

the holiday atmosphere, while the<br />

pizzeria by the bar makes for great<br />

mid-evening snacks. If you want a<br />

low-key alfresco evening, then look<br />

no further.<br />

Bang Bang<br />

www.bangbang-club.de. Neue<br />

Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher<br />

Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price:<br />

€5-10.<br />

Her fangs tore into<br />

the body of a raw<br />

whole pineapple,<br />

the juice causing<br />

red lipstick to drip<br />

down her chin<br />

and pool onto the<br />

stage. Dressed in<br />

burlesque, she<br />

reared her head<br />

back and spit the<br />

tropical pulp into<br />

faces of a screaming<br />

crowd pumping<br />

fi sts of devil horns.<br />

Bleeding eardrums pressed against<br />

speakers as the tongue of this rock<br />

goddess slipped pieces of the luscious<br />

fruit between audience members’<br />

drooling lips.<br />

If you’ve been searching for an<br />

intense nightlife scene of live music,<br />

tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale,<br />

then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang<br />

Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous<br />

tracks of the Hackescher Markt<br />

S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall<br />

is a hotspot for colourful characters<br />

that will guarantee an interesting<br />

and usually entertaining night.<br />

The dress code varies from drag and<br />

burlesque to teenagers sporting a<br />

casual attire of shorts and T-shirts.<br />

The music as well is diverse with<br />

DJs spinning 60s<br />

pop hits, indie<br />

tracks, and even<br />

the heavy riffs of<br />

Black Sabbath and<br />

Rage Against the<br />

Machine. The bar<br />

unfortunately is<br />

not cheap, beer<br />

runs €3 for .33L<br />

and cocktails are<br />

€6-7.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s nightlife<br />

typically begins<br />

quite late, in fact<br />

most clubs are not in full swing until<br />

well after midnight. So if you decide<br />

to show up at the Bang Bang around<br />

11pm, make sure that you have<br />

the energy to exercise your dance<br />

skills and head-banging fury to the<br />

early hours of the morning. Visit the<br />

website to see the event lineup and<br />

choose the night that best suits your<br />

interests.<br />

47 Mitte Mitte 48


Prenzlauer Berg Information<br />

Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the<br />

most picturesque areas in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

The area is dominated by wide open<br />

boulevards and many of its buildings<br />

are now occupied by übercool cafes,<br />

shops and restaurants. As a result<br />

the area has undergone a process<br />

of gentrifi cation since reunifi cation<br />

with many of the buildings renovated<br />

after a period of neglect under the<br />

East German government.<br />

Prenzlauer Berg is known for having<br />

a high proportion of young families;<br />

attracting British and American<br />

immigrants, who are drawn by the<br />

area’s continuing reputation for<br />

art; and for students. Only a few<br />

old buildings give a reminder of the<br />

area’s past. Created in the latter<br />

half of the 19th century under the<br />

plans of James Hobrecht, it was<br />

initially intended to be a workingclass<br />

district. After a while the area<br />

became known for punks and then,<br />

having survived much of the post-war<br />

rebuilding, it subsequently became<br />

a hotspot for students, intellectuals<br />

and artists under the GDR. A place<br />

for alternative forms of culture was<br />

established and as a consequence it<br />

was a place where resistance could<br />

be found.<br />

49 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 50


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Kulturbrauerei<br />

w w w. k u l t u r b r a u e r e i - b e r l i n .<br />

de Schonhauser Allee 36.<br />

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe.<br />

Tel: +49 3044 35 260.<br />

Once a Schultheiss brewery, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate<br />

venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts<br />

and markets. The artistic nerve<br />

centre of the creative city includes<br />

an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and<br />

Cigar bar and even a cooking school<br />

for experimental culinary lovers. Why<br />

not head to SODA Club for €4 Salsa<br />

classes every Thursday and Sunday<br />

before practicing your moves at the<br />

evening Salsa party? Or for a unique<br />

fortnightly shopping experience,<br />

visit The White Market for locally<br />

made clothing and accessories from<br />

the likes of Barbara Viktor and<br />

Friederike Porscha.<br />

Jüdischer Friedhof<br />

Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn:<br />

Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33.<br />

Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm.<br />

Along a nondescript road lies a<br />

poignant place of remembrance.<br />

The Jüdischer Friedhof is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

oldest Jewish cemetery and, like<br />

any cemetery, there is something<br />

of a sombre air upon entering. This<br />

is perhaps even more signifi cant in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> when considering the context<br />

of history. Unlike other Jewish<br />

cemeteries in <strong>Berlin</strong> it survived the<br />

wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless<br />

damage was still done in 1988 when<br />

it was attacked by East German neo-<br />

Nazis with fallen tombstones providing<br />

the evidence. Much remains though<br />

and the canopy of trees provides a<br />

fi tting resting place. Indeed nature is<br />

a key theme when visiting, as moss<br />

and ivy are now beginning to wrap<br />

themselves around the weathered<br />

tomb stones. The rows of tomb<br />

stones provide a sense of order but<br />

this is broken by the many small<br />

paths that criss-cross the cemetery<br />

and provide a more natural feel. As a<br />

consequence small corners can easily<br />

be found, especially at the end of<br />

the cemetery, allowing that poignant<br />

moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer<br />

and artist Max Liebermann.<br />

Kollwitzplatz<br />

U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz<br />

Infl uenced by the designs of Reinhold<br />

Linger, Kollwitzplatz is great for any<br />

number of activities. Some may be<br />

inclined to sunbathe, while others<br />

may want to practice their tabletennis<br />

skills, or simply relax with<br />

friends. Alternatively, once past the<br />

trees that encircle the plaz, the<br />

clearing provides a perfect spot for<br />

that refl ective moment or a chance<br />

to simply admire the ornate buildings<br />

that are a feature of the area.<br />

The platz also includes a great<br />

playground, and despite its closed<br />

surroundings, it is still possible to hear<br />

the bustle of various eateries which<br />

surround the platz and provide the<br />

chance for pleasant refreshment. The<br />

platz itself is named after the famous<br />

artist who lived in the area, Katty<br />

Kollwitz, and whose statue watches<br />

over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it<br />

is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’<br />

own work. Indeed the presence of a<br />

work that conveys such sombreness<br />

and refl ection is a theme that could<br />

describe the whole platz.<br />

51 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 52


Arts & Culture<br />

Volkspark Weinberg<br />

Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler<br />

Platz and Fehbelliner Str. U-Bahn:<br />

Rosenthaler Platz.<br />

Don’t let fi nances get in the way of<br />

fun! There are many activities in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> that are free of charge. Not<br />

least of these are the parks and<br />

playgrounds scattered about the city.<br />

For those who are mature enough to<br />

admit they still enjoy a good tire<br />

swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark<br />

Weinberg will provide an enjoyable<br />

cost-free evening. During the day<br />

this park is dominated by parents<br />

and their children, as nightfalls this<br />

place is left empty for the bigger<br />

cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue<br />

pyramids spurting water, and a<br />

behemoth of a jungle gym, even the<br />

most grown-up of people will feel the<br />

urge to summon their inner child. The<br />

shallow wading pool provides a nice<br />

place to cool your feet, or your bum<br />

for that matter after receiving slideburns<br />

over on the play structures.<br />

Even if you stop by in the daytime<br />

and a younger crowd occupies the<br />

games equipment, there are still<br />

two cafes, the lily pond, and the<br />

rose garden to enjoy. Merely sitting<br />

on a bench listening to the church<br />

bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a<br />

relaxing experience. So if your wallet<br />

is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to<br />

let the kid within you out!<br />

Who Killed Bambi?<br />

w w w. w h o k i l l e d b a m b i . o r g<br />

Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel:<br />

+49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Monsat<br />

12pm – 8pm<br />

Note: this clothes store has nothing<br />

to do with Disney. Offering a<br />

generous selection of alternative<br />

attire for both men and women, Who<br />

Killed Bambi is the place to go for<br />

fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a<br />

range of street-wear labels from the<br />

locally produced Made in Paradise<br />

to European favourite Desigual,<br />

Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the<br />

largest of three in <strong>Berlin</strong>. Browse the<br />

racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for<br />

that attention-grabbing purchase,<br />

or lust after the unique Who Killed<br />

Bambi bowling bags.<br />

A little something extra ...<br />

Photobooths<br />

Shopping<br />

Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2.<br />

Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you<br />

four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all<br />

scattered around <strong>Berlin</strong>. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw<br />

Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them by. But keep your eye<br />

keen - for only 2€ fun memories can be captured (and can also be used<br />

to make your friends at home jealous!)<br />

53 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 54


Shopping Shopping<br />

Interview with Karin Nieto,<br />

Organiser of The White<br />

Market.<br />

T h e W h i t e M a r k e t . c o m .<br />

KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee<br />

36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm<br />

– 7pm. Log on to the website for<br />

the next The White<br />

Market event.<br />

The White Market is<br />

a new fashion event<br />

based in the diverse<br />

shopping area of<br />

Prenzlauer Berg.<br />

Locals and tourists<br />

alike visit the chic,<br />

outdoor market for<br />

a taste of original<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> craftsmanship<br />

at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural<br />

hub.<br />

Having hosted only four events<br />

of its kind so far, organiser Karen<br />

Nieto speaks to us about this unique<br />

project and the exciting prospects<br />

for The White Market.<br />

When did you fi rst come up with<br />

the idea for The White Market and<br />

what made you decide to pursue<br />

this venture?<br />

The idea for the White Market was<br />

conceived in 2008, during one of<br />

those shopping ruts everyone gets<br />

into sometimes.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> is a creative city, bustling with<br />

talented designers, but shopping<br />

can be inconvenient and uninspiring<br />

sometimes. Since moving here two<br />

years ago, we’ve been fl ying every<br />

season to New York<br />

or Paris to get our<br />

fashion fi x. In these<br />

cities, shopping<br />

more than just a<br />

means to an end,<br />

it’s an experience.<br />

We recognized<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> already had<br />

all the elements:<br />

talented designers,<br />

good quality<br />

c r a f t s m a n s h i p ,<br />

endless sources of inspiration, etc.<br />

All we had to do was connect the<br />

elements. Our concept was simple:<br />

bring the best designers under one<br />

roof (or umbrella in our case) and<br />

present their collections in a pretty<br />

white package – and voila, the White<br />

Market shopping experience was<br />

born.<br />

How did you come up with the name<br />

‘The White Market’?<br />

We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’<br />

because that’s how we visualized the<br />

beginning: outdoor summer shopping<br />

under rows of white canopies. Plus,<br />

the name suits the philosophy of<br />

the market: all products are unique<br />

and hand-made; the exact opposite<br />

of what you might fi nd in a black<br />

market.<br />

How do you select the designers that<br />

exhibit at The White Market, and<br />

how many do you choose to show at<br />

any one event?<br />

Each designer must submit images<br />

of their collections, and we review<br />

them based on the following criteria:<br />

original design, craftsmanship, and<br />

small production runs. We show<br />

approximately 40 designers per<br />

market, and we make sure there is<br />

an equal number between clothing<br />

and accessory designers.<br />

What items can we fi nd on sale at<br />

The White Market and is there an<br />

average price range?<br />

The White Market only exhibits<br />

handmade items from independent<br />

designers with non mass-produced<br />

collections. In order to remain<br />

true to the initial concept of the<br />

White Market, it is exclusively a<br />

fashion market selling clothing and<br />

accessories. The price range is very<br />

broad starting at ten euros goingup<br />

to 200 euros.<br />

Describe your typical ‘The White<br />

Market’ customer.<br />

The White Market attracts people<br />

from all walks of life who have<br />

one thing in common: an eye for<br />

fashion. Tourists come in droves<br />

and <strong>Berlin</strong> locals are equally excited<br />

by the prospect of a new shopping<br />

experience to discover. You are<br />

located at KulturBrauerei in the<br />

popular shopping area of Prenzlauer<br />

Berg. How did you decide on the area<br />

in which The White Market is held,<br />

and how important do you think this<br />

is to the project’s success?<br />

Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled<br />

out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not<br />

overly-touristy like other districts<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>. The neighbourhood has<br />

a perfect blend of a young creative<br />

set that keeps the area exciting and<br />

inspiring and young families with<br />

a more disposable income keep it<br />

prosperous. The KulturBrauerei is<br />

incredibly charming, and it’s a <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

landmark. The fact that everyone<br />

knows it, means we don’t have to<br />

give directions and the location gave<br />

the market a sense of establishment<br />

from the get go.<br />

Are you a designer yourself, and if so<br />

do you exhibit any of your items at<br />

The White Market?<br />

55 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 56


Shopping Shopping<br />

Yes, I’m an architect and clothing<br />

designer. I’m launching a line<br />

of jewellery to sell at the White<br />

Market – I just need to fi nd time to<br />

make it!<br />

What do you think sets <strong>Berlin</strong> apart<br />

from the rest of the world in terms<br />

of fashion and style?<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s unique history plays an<br />

integral role in local fashion.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>ers take the term ‘eighties or<br />

nineties throwback’ to a new extrem<br />

e that stretches into each fi bre of its<br />

aesthetic culture from furniture to<br />

architecture and clothing. <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

endless array of second hand shops<br />

and various fl ea markets caters to<br />

ones every nostalgic whim. The White<br />

Market has been embraced because<br />

though it exclusively presents is new<br />

things, it encourages home-grown<br />

individuality and creativity: integral<br />

facets of <strong>Berlin</strong> fashion.<br />

Where do you see The White Market<br />

fi ve years from now?<br />

As a destination for trend forecasters<br />

and shopaholics alike –a <strong>Berlin</strong> fashion<br />

establishment. We have already<br />

received international interest in<br />

the White Market which would be<br />

the natural next step for us to take<br />

for the market<br />

to grow organically. In addition, the<br />

possibility of a White Market label is<br />

also on the cards. The label would<br />

present collections of selected<br />

market designers. The designers<br />

would change along with the seasons<br />

and the White Market label would<br />

serve, like the market, as a springboard<br />

into the global world of<br />

fashion.<br />

Flohmarkt am Mauerpark<br />

(Flea Market)<br />

Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8<br />

Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm<br />

Prenzlauer Berg may not have<br />

the alternative edge of areas like<br />

Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but<br />

the now affl uent area retains some<br />

of its bohemian cool. This makes it<br />

the perfect place for secondhand<br />

shoppers who want to snap up<br />

some of the residents’ castoffs. The<br />

massive market on Bernauer Straße<br />

is on every Sunday, and with plenty<br />

of great food stalls and bars, it’s<br />

easy to spend the whole day here.<br />

Everything from household goods<br />

to clothing, records, books and<br />

bicycles can be found here. There’s<br />

undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good<br />

rummage through the cardboard<br />

boxes should yield a worthwhile<br />

reward. Prices start off pretty low,<br />

but if not don’t be afraid to barter,<br />

as there are plenty of bargains to be<br />

had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap<br />

as three euro, books from about 50<br />

cents, and bicycles for about 30 to<br />

50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure<br />

to leave plenty of time to make your<br />

way through the crowds.<br />

57 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 58


Shopping Shopping<br />

Tausche<br />

www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8.<br />

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49<br />

30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon-<br />

Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm.<br />

Tausche is no ordinary bag shop.<br />

This contemporary store sells <strong>Berlin</strong>made,<br />

multi-functional, multifaceted<br />

messenger bags which are<br />

unique in their ability to alter both<br />

purpose and appearance. Tausche<br />

bags are available in eight different<br />

sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and<br />

come with two exchangeable cover<br />

fl aps upon purchase. Just unzip<br />

the front and transform the bag’s<br />

aesthetic in one swift movement<br />

with another cover. Visit the<br />

exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer<br />

Berg and browse through the<br />

collection of covers decorating the<br />

shop’s interior in order to customise<br />

your chosen style. From pretty fl orals,<br />

to iconic local images like the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

TV tower, the range of designs is<br />

seemingly endless. Team these with<br />

an additional inset in black or orange<br />

to accommodate for individual,<br />

practical needs. The cushioned<br />

Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a<br />

15” laptop, while the Rabenvater<br />

offers space for baby food, nappies<br />

and anything else the little one might<br />

need. Insets start at €25 for a simple<br />

separator, with the more expensive<br />

laptop compartment costing €55.<br />

Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz<br />

U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday<br />

9am – 5pm<br />

Arkonaplatz is a smaller market,<br />

with higher quality goods and prices<br />

to match. The focus is on vintage<br />

and retro clothes and household<br />

goods, with a particularly impressive<br />

selection of sunglasses. The market is<br />

also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with<br />

plenty of boxes fi lled with records.<br />

There is also a great collection<br />

of interesting old record players.<br />

Afterwards, you can relax in the<br />

pretty little park next door, which is<br />

and is a perfect spot for a picnic or<br />

sunbathing in the summer.<br />

Pigasus Poster Gallery<br />

www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse<br />

62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz.<br />

Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat<br />

2pm-7pm<br />

A gallery that is a little bit different,<br />

Pigasus offers a broad range of<br />

posters for sale. Among them<br />

are designs that were originally<br />

printed for fi lm, theatre, opera and<br />

exhibitions. There are both vintage<br />

and more contemporary posters,<br />

and those on show are continually<br />

changing. Prices range from €15, to<br />

over €200 for rarer pieces. There<br />

is also a good selection of CDs by<br />

Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists<br />

to buy.<br />

Go downstairs and there is a small<br />

but substantial enough changing<br />

exhibition, focusing on the work<br />

of one particular artist or theme.<br />

A movement known as the Polish<br />

Poster School emerged in the 50s,<br />

the main protagonist being Henryk<br />

Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs<br />

tend to have a handmade feel, even<br />

the more modern ones, and often<br />

contain a political statement. Browse<br />

and enjoy at your own leisure.<br />

Supaife Kiosk<br />

Raumerstr. 40, 10437 <strong>Berlin</strong>, Phone:<br />

44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife.<br />

de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed,<br />

U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz<br />

Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone<br />

interested in street art or graphic<br />

design. This store sells both books on<br />

the subjects as well as small-edition<br />

prints and artists books. Silk-screened<br />

t-shirts, postcards and stickers round<br />

out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also<br />

serves as a gallery for art exhibitions,<br />

with the openings often featuring<br />

live music. With a diverse collection<br />

of various kinds of graphic arts, this<br />

store is the perfect place to pick up<br />

an affordable work of art.<br />

59 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 60


Shopping Shopping<br />

Sentimental Journey<br />

Husemannstr. 5, 10435 <strong>Berlin</strong>, Phone:<br />

030/44328664, Email: journey@<br />

arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun.<br />

closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.<br />

With the funky sequined dresses<br />

hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis<br />

above the door, you know you are<br />

in for a real vintage treat when you<br />

enter Sentimental Journey. Inside,<br />

clothing, shoes and hats from the early<br />

20th century until the present await.<br />

Sentimental Journeys is everything a<br />

vintage shop should be, with crowded<br />

racks of dresses, scary mannequin<br />

heads with ostentatious hats, and<br />

even a white and black checked<br />

fl oor. To top it all off, in one room<br />

there is a shrine to Elvis, complete<br />

with a piano and velvet stool, a<br />

large cut out of The King himself,<br />

and a ceramic band arranged on top<br />

of the piano. Many treasures await<br />

discovery in this store: collapsible top<br />

hats, cocktail dresses, and even a hat<br />

featuring a knitted grand piano made<br />

by the owner herself. Although the<br />

prices may be on the higher end (said<br />

hat costing upwards of 100 euro),<br />

it is still worth a look if just for the<br />

feeling of nostalgia for a time when<br />

you weren’t even around.<br />

Stiefelkombinat<br />

Eberswalder Str. 21/22, Tel: 51 05<br />

12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.<br />

and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed.<br />

Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to<br />

say the least. The experience begins<br />

before even entering the premises,<br />

as its contents spill out onto the<br />

street, making it hard to miss.<br />

Inside, shag rugs and furry stools<br />

are used in abundance, providing<br />

a suitably retro decor on which to<br />

display the clothes. Shoes dominate<br />

the secondhand merchandise. There<br />

is a wide selection of both boots<br />

and heels, which are all helpfully<br />

organized by size with clearly marked<br />

sections. Various choices abound,<br />

ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go<br />

boots. There is also a large collection<br />

of vintage clothing, mostly from the<br />

1960s through to the 1980s. Variety<br />

abounds, with everything from<br />

chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits<br />

and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up<br />

to the rafters, the shop can be a little<br />

hard to take in fully and discover<br />

that perfect fi nd. But when you<br />

do, it is the result of an enjoyable<br />

treasure hunt through the fashions of<br />

yesteryear. Next door there is also<br />

men’s clothing and shoes, as well as<br />

furniture more likely to be spotted in<br />

a 70s sci-fi fl ick. Prices here are not<br />

cheap, but they are justifi ed on the<br />

whole by the quality.<br />

61 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 62


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Babel<br />

K a s t a n i e n a l l e 3 3 ,<br />

U-bahn: Eberswalder<br />

Straße noon -<br />

midnight<br />

For a a kebab you won’t<br />

regret the morning<br />

after, Babel is the<br />

place to go. Serving Serving<br />

deliciously authentic<br />

meals at the walletfriendly<br />

price of of<br />

just just three three Euro, this<br />

makes the perfect perfect<br />

spot to stop off off for<br />

a quick bite between between<br />

bars. Particularly<br />

recommended are<br />

the chicken schwarma<br />

or grilled haloumi.<br />

Sitting on the the terrace<br />

outside is a good spot spot<br />

to watch the the well-towell-todo hipster inhabitants<br />

inhabitants<br />

of the surrounding<br />

area go preening and prancing about<br />

their business. The restaurant itself<br />

is run by a couple of genial Lebanese<br />

guys and attracts a healthy mix of<br />

homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and<br />

boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered<br />

is this place in fact that it has even<br />

made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20<br />

places to eat in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Focacceria Naturale<br />

Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder<br />

Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12.<br />

For a quick pit stop during shopping<br />

ventures on Kastanienalle, this<br />

ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great<br />

alternative from the often meatheavy<br />

Kebab and Currywurst stalls<br />

so readily found in <strong>Berlin</strong>. With<br />

toppings varying from spinach, ham,<br />

tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats<br />

cheese, and a sizeable slice costing<br />

only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect<br />

place for refuelling. What’s more,<br />

the juice bar along the counter offers<br />

similar variety. Freshly stocked from<br />

the vibrant fruit and veg shop next<br />

door, prices range from a pocketfriendly<br />

two to four euro depending<br />

on how much fruit you want thrown<br />

in. All in all, the perfect place to take<br />

a pause and plan your next shopping<br />

venture.<br />

Tabeyo<br />

Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn:<br />

Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402<br />

At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince<br />

on a pauper’s pocket. Offering<br />

freshly made sushi with good quality<br />

ingredients at the overtly generous<br />

price of two euro for six rolls, it is<br />

easy to see why this place has become<br />

a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s<br />

discerning residents.<br />

W-Imbiss<br />

www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee<br />

49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302<br />

0678 noon-midnight.<br />

Best described as an Indian-Italian-<br />

Californian fusion restaurant,<br />

W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of<br />

Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes<br />

its name from the German ‘Imbiss’<br />

meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo is<br />

the notorious golden arches turned<br />

upside down hinting that W-Imbiss<br />

is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef,<br />

Gordon W, dishes out everything from<br />

naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas,<br />

producing scrumptious, eccentric,<br />

gastronomy in minutes. A tannoy<br />

system declares your food is ready to<br />

be collected from the postage stamp<br />

sized kitchen. Choose to take away<br />

or eat outside among large plastic<br />

orange tables.<br />

63 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 64<br />

Fellas<br />

www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder<br />

Straße U-bahn: Schonhauser Allee.<br />

Tel:46796314; 10 am- 1am.<br />

If a big hearty salad is what you’re<br />

looking for, then head to Fellas. With<br />

enough greenery to last you a week<br />

this dimly lit, wooden furnished<br />

restaurant-come-bar is a great<br />

place for private dinners or long lazy<br />

lunches. Although fairly expensive,<br />

you’re money will defi antly go a<br />

long way. Order a Sportsfreund<br />

salad and a mount of crispy leaves,<br />

peppers, tomato, cucumber and<br />

succulent chicken will arrive a short<br />

while after (perhaps a little longer<br />

than you may like). If a salad is not<br />

what you’re after, soups, bagels<br />

and ciabatta sandwiches are also<br />

available for a more pocket friendly<br />

price. There are also generous happy<br />

hour(s) and limitless wifi .


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Hans Wurst Café<br />

w w w . m y s p a c e . c o m /<br />

hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr<br />

2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse.<br />

U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel.<br />

030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm-<br />

12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4-<br />

9, lunch specials from 12-3.<br />

This vegan organic café is an<br />

excellent alternative to those who<br />

like unconventional menus. Its quaint<br />

atmosphere and relaxing ambience<br />

makes you feel welcome right from<br />

the start. It is fi lled with antique<br />

sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you<br />

Lorbeth Feine Kost<br />

Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn:<br />

Eberswalder Straße<br />

Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in<br />

traditional German cuisine with a<br />

contemporary twist. The café come<br />

restaurant provides traditional foods<br />

including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and<br />

Schnitzel, brought into the 21st<br />

century when mixed with usual<br />

and exciting fl avours. Greeted by a<br />

mishmash of tables and umbrellas<br />

surrounded by leafy plants, you can<br />

choose to eat indoors or out. Whether<br />

stopping by for a full-blown dinner or<br />

just tea and cake, the menu changes<br />

daily so you will never get bored of<br />

the delicious food. Fear not if your<br />

German is not yet fl uent, the friendly<br />

staff will help you with translation;<br />

they will happily consult an online<br />

to stay for as long as you please with<br />

access to free wifi . Juxtaposed to the<br />

antique furniture are the modern light<br />

fi xtures, fresh fl owers on every table,<br />

as well as the natural food choices.<br />

All of the dishes contain variations<br />

of tofu, including salads, burgers,<br />

sandwiches, and stir fry. There are<br />

various cakes and cookies for dessert.<br />

Additionally, the cafe hosts several<br />

parties a month introducing bands<br />

from all over the globe.<br />

German translator to decipher the<br />

delectable German menu. Doggy<br />

bags are available as is free WiFi.<br />

The Bird<br />

www.thebirdberlin.com. Am<br />

Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser<br />

Allee. Tel: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6<br />

pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight<br />

Two words: Meat heaven! Vegetarians<br />

are advised to stay away from this<br />

rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where<br />

even the Ceasar salad has steak in<br />

it. Serving the best burgers in <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />

devour a freshly ground Iowa steak<br />

patty, sandwiched between a toasted<br />

English muffi n served up with a crisp<br />

salad and a side of homemade fries.<br />

Its witty menu (which includes an<br />

obituary to a once popular burger no<br />

longer in production) will tempt you<br />

with a wealth of toppings from blue<br />

cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t<br />

whet your appetite then try the<br />

surprisingly cheaper option of steak<br />

also accompanied with salad and<br />

fries. Although cutlery is provided<br />

for the steak, eating burgers with<br />

your fi ngers is strongly advised!<br />

No need to worry about the mess<br />

though as kitchen roll accompanies<br />

the condiments on every table<br />

Nocti Vagus<br />

www.noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker<br />

Str. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder<br />

Platz. Tel: +49 3 074 749 123.<br />

Prices start from €49 including a<br />

show, and Mondays are cheaper<br />

with set menus starting from €29.<br />

Treat yourself to a high quality<br />

dinner in the dark in the original<br />

dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus.<br />

Prepare to awaken and revitalise<br />

the only four senses you have left…<br />

smells of the succulent food passing<br />

by will waft up your nose, noises of<br />

the anonymous patrons and blind<br />

waiters will fi ll your ears as you<br />

orientate yourself at your table by<br />

touch, and fi nally when your food<br />

arrives your taste buds will explode<br />

with the culinary delights the chefs<br />

have prepared especially for you.In<br />

this restaurant you will experience<br />

what it is like to be blind. You will<br />

form judgements, based not on<br />

appearance but, on how a person<br />

speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is<br />

not so easy when you’re blind and<br />

you will have to call for an escort<br />

to lead the way. Even pouring<br />

your drinks in the dark may prove<br />

diffi cult. Choose to eat with a<br />

knife and fork, or just get messy<br />

with your hands. Will you even fi nd<br />

65 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 66


Food & Drink<br />

your food and be able to tell what<br />

it is without sight? The challenges<br />

you’ll experience being blinded by<br />

the dark will open your mind and<br />

may change your preconceptions of<br />

what you thought it was like to have<br />

no vision.On<br />

arrival you will<br />

be welcomed<br />

into the<br />

restaurant bar<br />

which is located<br />

upstairs in the<br />

light. Here<br />

is where you<br />

decide what<br />

you would like<br />

to eat. Ordering<br />

c o u l d n ’ t<br />

be simpler,<br />

with three<br />

set menu’s<br />

incorporating<br />

three courses<br />

including a<br />

v e g e t a r i a n<br />

option and a<br />

fourth tailored<br />

surprise menu<br />

for those feeling<br />

a tad more daring. Once your order<br />

is placed a waiter will lead you down<br />

to the basement restaurant where<br />

the excitement begins.If eating in<br />

the dark does not sound enough of<br />

an experience, this restaurant also<br />

offers various shows to accompany<br />

your meal. These shows include<br />

various readers, singers, and actors<br />

who take to the dark stage for your<br />

entertainment. The timetable for<br />

these events<br />

is available on<br />

the website<br />

with dates for<br />

n o n - G e r m a n<br />

speaking tourists<br />

pointed out.<br />

Once you fi nish<br />

your meal and<br />

are welcomed<br />

back into the<br />

light, prepare<br />

to be surprised<br />

by what you<br />

thought you ate<br />

and what you<br />

thought your<br />

blind waiter<br />

looked like.<br />

Also make sure<br />

you check your<br />

shirt for debris;<br />

you never<br />

know what you<br />

dropped down there in the dark!<br />

Make a call and reserve your table<br />

because this place can get busy,<br />

then prepare for the unexpected.<br />

Zur Rose<br />

Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa-<br />

Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler<br />

platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am-<br />

1am,<br />

Sandwiched between a little row<br />

of the many eateries found in<br />

Rosenthaler<br />

Platz, is<br />

this bustling<br />

hangout. Its<br />

rustic style,<br />

with antique<br />

furnishings<br />

found in<br />

the back<br />

and small<br />

garden tables<br />

squeezed in<br />

the front,<br />

makes a<br />

p l e a s a n t<br />

place to to sit sit back back and contemplate<br />

a days sight seeing. The food comes<br />

in generous portions and budget<br />

friendly prices, where breakfasts<br />

and lunches range from 3-5€, and<br />

dinner plates including pastas and<br />

salads from 5-9€. Make sure to<br />

check out the “tap your own beer”<br />

service, where you can help yourself<br />

to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each).<br />

Cocktails are also good (and strong),<br />

and average around €5.<br />

Erdbeer<br />

Food & Drink<br />

Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa-<br />

Luxembourg Platz Open Summer<br />

2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late<br />

daily. No credit cards.<br />

Erdbeer’s proximity to the array<br />

of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz<br />

and Rosenthaler Platz makes<br />

it the perfect place to start an<br />

evening. Its reputation for mouthwatering<br />

and varied cocktails is well<br />

deserved, and the extensive menu<br />

only presents one problem: which<br />

drink to choose! Be prepared to<br />

splash out, as cocktail prices begin<br />

aaround Seven Euro. However, for<br />

the delicious drinks and intimate<br />

atmosphere, it is money well spent.<br />

During the week, an eclectic mix of<br />

music is played in the background<br />

at a fairly low level, offering guests<br />

the rare chance to have an audible<br />

conversation in such an environment.<br />

Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get<br />

guests revved up for the night ahead.<br />

The candle-lit tables, pink décor and<br />

mismatched chairs all add to the<br />

charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a<br />

low-key and relaxing venue, which also<br />

serves a wide selection of beers and<br />

non-alcoholic refreshments for noncocktail<br />

drinkers. Well worth a visit.<br />

67 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 68


Nightlife<br />

White Trash<br />

www.whitetrashfastfood.com<br />

Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa-<br />

Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668<br />

Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from<br />

6pm.<br />

Dining at White Trash is a sure-fi re<br />

way to induce a sensory overload.<br />

This converted Chinese<br />

restaurant, replete<br />

with gaudy Oriental<br />

fl ourishes and garnished<br />

with bizarre bric-abrac,<br />

serves up decent<br />

American-style dishes<br />

with incendiary titles<br />

such as “The Marquee<br />

de Fuck Burger”.<br />

Wolfi ng this down<br />

whilst being serenaded<br />

by a thrash metal band<br />

in what resembles a<br />

schizophrenic bordello<br />

provides a uniquely<br />

entertaining experience. When<br />

you’ve fi nished, or given up on, your<br />

outrageously large portion, head<br />

downstairs to dance off the calories<br />

in the misnomer that is though if easily<br />

offended. The Diamond Lounge, the<br />

dingy basement club. Here the music<br />

is loud and the acts vary from local<br />

upcoming indie bands to occasional<br />

internationally-known acts. As if all<br />

this wasn’t enough, there’s also an<br />

in-house tattoo parlour if you feel<br />

like permanently marking your body<br />

is the perfect accompaniment to a<br />

meal. The service has been known to<br />

be shoddy at times, and explicitly<br />

rude at others. By all accounts, you’re<br />

more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from<br />

your waiter than “Bon appetit!”<br />

However, go in expecting something<br />

a little different from your average<br />

culinary experience and you’ll be<br />

pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to<br />

steer clear<br />

Dr Pong<br />

Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00late<br />

Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1,<br />

M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late,<br />

Hidden away on a busy street in<br />

Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but<br />

dim lighting and occasional cheers to<br />

suggest it being open for business, is<br />

a cheap and a great way to spend an<br />

evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a<br />

5€ deposit is needed) and head to the<br />

sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged<br />

room whose focal point is a large ping<br />

pong table. The rules are simple:<br />

every time a new round starts, join<br />

the rotating circle of competitors and<br />

take turns in hitting the ball back to<br />

each other. If you miss a shot, join<br />

the many who simply come along to<br />

watch. Hit every shot and you will<br />

fi nd yourself in the fi ve-round-fi nale<br />

where although discreet, the winning<br />

title will gain you respect from<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s tabletennismegafans.<br />

Rounds<br />

can start with<br />

as little as 3<br />

to as many as<br />

30 players, so<br />

be confi dent<br />

to ensure you<br />

get a swing in.<br />

Best to come<br />

Nightlife<br />

in smaller groups, as large swathes<br />

of tourists can irritate the loyal<br />

punters. It empties out after awhile,<br />

so hold on if you’re fi nding it a bit<br />

overwhelming. Chessboards are also<br />

available if table tennis isn’t your<br />

thing.<br />

Rosengarten<br />

www.rosengarten-berlin.de. Weinbergsweg<br />

13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler<br />

Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun<br />

1pm – 12pm.<br />

Rosengarten is an excellent place<br />

to rest your feet with a cool drink<br />

after a day’s sightseeing or shopping.<br />

Beautifully situated by the<br />

eponymous rose garden in Volkspark<br />

Weinberg, the atmosphere<br />

is exceptionally laid back. Striped<br />

deckchairs are set out next to the<br />

small outdoor bar where super<br />

friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft<br />

drinks and cake. A great program of<br />

events is on<br />

offer, such as<br />

fi lm screenings<br />

and live<br />

music. On<br />

Wednesdays<br />

at 7pm there<br />

are even<br />

hula-hoop<br />

workshops.<br />

69 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 70


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

Alkatraz<br />

w w w. a l c a t r a z - b a c k p a c k e r.<br />

de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2<br />

Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30<br />

48496815<br />

S 40, D 25, T 22<br />

4 bedroom dorm 18<br />

8 bedroom dorm 16<br />

Apartments (4 people) 106, (5<br />

people) 116, (6 people) 126<br />

Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand<br />

This urban, hip hostel located on<br />

the busy street of Schönhauser Allee<br />

stands out from the rest. With its<br />

unique exterior of graffi ti, it’s hard<br />

to walk past without being intrigued<br />

by what lies within. You can fi nd<br />

all kinds of travellers residing here<br />

from students, backpackers, walkins<br />

and occasionally families. The<br />

small intimate courtyard is an ideal<br />

place to sit back and unwind. The<br />

common area with TV, table football,<br />

books and leafl ets galore make sure<br />

you will be kept busy. There is a<br />

lobby where computers are located<br />

with free internet access (you can<br />

also access the internet with your<br />

own notebook via wi-fi ). The selfservice<br />

kitchen/lounge is bright and<br />

colourful and has a relaxed vibe.<br />

East Seven Hostel<br />

www.eastseven.de. Schwedter<br />

Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz.<br />

Tel: 936 22 240<br />

Dorm: 17<br />

S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78<br />

Linen: 3<br />

Towels: 1euro<br />

Visa and Mastercard accepted (small<br />

fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover<br />

costs)<br />

Situated just north of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

über-hip Mitte district, this small,<br />

comfortable hostel offers travellers<br />

a wide range of clean, high quality<br />

affordable accommodation. With<br />

spacious bathrooms and hot showers<br />

on every fl oor, what more could<br />

a budding traveller ask for. Not to<br />

mention being surrounded by cafes,<br />

restaurants, nightlife and of course<br />

lots of shops. A trip to the famous<br />

Mauer Park fl eamarket on Sunday is<br />

a must. Or relax in the cosy garden<br />

house/barbeque area among other<br />

guests. The friendly and welcoming<br />

staff are always on hand 24/7 with<br />

tips and tricks to help you make the<br />

most of your time in the city. The<br />

hostel offers a range of services<br />

including: laundry service, free<br />

lockers in rooms, free luggage<br />

storage, free maps and free wi-fi .<br />

The East Seven <strong>Berlin</strong> hostel fosters a<br />

relaxed atmosphere all year round.<br />

Lette’m Sleep<br />

www.backpackers.de. Lettestraße<br />

7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße.<br />

Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49<br />

(0)30 44733625<br />

7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€,<br />

5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€,<br />

3 bed dorms 21€<br />

Twin room: 49€<br />

Apartment: 69€/room a night for<br />

two people<br />

Linen: Included no charge<br />

Towels: 70cent<br />

“Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make<br />

you eat your passport!” – is the note<br />

you will fi nd in the kitchen of this<br />

laidback hostel. The bright<br />

orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep<br />

fi t in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s<br />

vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel<br />

hosts a mixture of nationalities<br />

all year round; backpackers from<br />

Finland, a family from Spain, an<br />

American biker… you’ll fi nd them<br />

here. With its no curfew policy<br />

travellers may come and go as they<br />

please. The little common room has<br />

everything you could need including<br />

free internet, tea, coffee, and a<br />

great DVD collection. This hostel has<br />

the vibe of <strong>Berlin</strong> built in. It’s downto-earth,<br />

nonchalant cool.<br />

71 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 72


Potsdamer Platz<br />

& Tiergarten<br />

Potsdamer Platz is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s newest<br />

quarter. Showcasing architectural<br />

gems such as the dramatic Sony<br />

Centre, the square is dominated by<br />

mainstream commercial success.<br />

Providing three multiplex cinemas,<br />

a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton,<br />

Europe’s largest casino and a<br />

multitude of non-descript bars<br />

and restaurants, the development<br />

of Potsdamer Platz has not been<br />

without its critics. That being said,<br />

the bustling centre continues to<br />

attract tourists and locals alike.<br />

Whether it is for the impressive<br />

architecture, the selection of<br />

museums, events such as the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx),<br />

or simply as a means to witness the<br />

enormous renewal of the square,<br />

there is no doubting that this is one<br />

of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s busiest areas.<br />

It could be said that Potsdamer<br />

Platz is a version of its former self.<br />

In the early 20th Century the square<br />

was one of Europe’s biggest traffi c<br />

centres that defi ned <strong>Berlin</strong> and it is<br />

even said to have housed Europe’s<br />

fi rst electric traffi c lights. While a<br />

replica of the lights can now be seen<br />

as soon as you step off the S-Bahn,<br />

little else exists that acknowledges<br />

the history of the area.<br />

During WW2, much of Potsdamer<br />

Information<br />

Platz turned to rubble, and when<br />

the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall was erected straight<br />

through the heart of the square in<br />

1961, all transport connections were<br />

cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost<br />

town.<br />

Situated close to Potsdamer Platz<br />

is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s answer to Hyde Park:<br />

Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a<br />

hunting ground in the 17th Century,<br />

today Tiergarten is a popular spot<br />

for relaxing in the sun after a day<br />

of cultural activity. Escape from the<br />

city in the green open space or visit<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s zoo situated on the outskirts.<br />

73 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 74


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Kulturforum<br />

Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn:<br />

U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz<br />

The Kulturforum is a complex of<br />

some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s main galleries<br />

and museums. It was planned out<br />

post World War Two, after several<br />

important cultural institutions<br />

were cut off from West <strong>Berlin</strong>,<br />

and build on a site that had been<br />

cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The<br />

Neue Nationalgalerie was built<br />

fi rst in 1968, at a time when the<br />

Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel<br />

was separated by the wall on the<br />

Eastern side of the city. It now<br />

contains an unmissable collection<br />

of 20th century art, even if the<br />

permanent collection often gives<br />

way to (also excellent) temporary<br />

exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie<br />

(Painting Gallery) is also world-<br />

Bargain time...<br />

class, with its collection of European Old<br />

Master paintings. Joining this building<br />

are also the Kunstgewerbemuseum<br />

(Museum of Decorative Art), the<br />

Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints<br />

and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek<br />

(Art Library). The Philharmonie is<br />

home to the <strong>Berlin</strong> Philharmonic<br />

Orchestra, and is an astounding<br />

golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped<br />

masterpiece of a building designed by<br />

Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation<br />

for superb acoustics. Next door, the<br />

Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small<br />

museum of musical instruments from<br />

the sixteenth century on, with guides<br />

giving performances on Saturdays at<br />

11am. And if all that wasn’t enough,<br />

the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is<br />

also here, another Scharoun building<br />

(haunted by angels in the classic <strong>Berlin</strong>based<br />

fi lm Wings of Desire) and has a<br />

great selection of books in English.<br />

Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museums at the<br />

kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes<br />

the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum<br />

of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings),<br />

Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-Museum<br />

(Musical Instruments Museum).<br />

Gemäldergalerie<br />

Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266<br />

2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm<br />

Thur. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz<br />

The Gemäldergalerie, part of the<br />

Kulturforum, is impressive to say the<br />

least. This picture gallery houses<br />

European works spanning the 13th<br />

through the 18th centuries. Pieces<br />

by masters such as Jan van Eyck,<br />

Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt,<br />

Vermeer and Dürer are the crown<br />

jewels in an already stunning<br />

collection. Aside from the 1500<br />

works housed here, the other half of<br />

the collection remains in the Bode<br />

Museum in Mitte. The museum itself<br />

consists of a large central hall fl anked<br />

by series of galleries on either side.<br />

Advance through history as you move<br />

through the museum, with the newest<br />

works at the back. Due to the sheer<br />

number of works, it would be advisable<br />

to spare a couple of hours to see the<br />

whole collection. If you don’t have<br />

that much time to spare, then choose<br />

a couple centuries or artists to see for<br />

a shorter, less intensive visit.<br />

75 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 76


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Neue-national Gallerie<br />

www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.<br />

Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S-<br />

Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30<br />

266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am-<br />

6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat<br />

10am-8pm. Price: €5-10.<br />

Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in<br />

itself not to be missed. Designed by<br />

Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts<br />

special temporary exhibitions that<br />

can last for a couple of years as well<br />

as works of classical Modernism and<br />

1960-70s art work. The permanent<br />

exhibition is located in the lower<br />

part of the gallery.<br />

The temporary collections focus<br />

on representations of Cubism,<br />

Expressionism, Surrealism and the<br />

Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume<br />

(Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung<br />

Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition<br />

is running up until November 2009.<br />

The Bilderträume is an unmissable<br />

opportunity to view possibly the<br />

most private collection in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

What makes this exhibition so unique<br />

is the collection is solely based on<br />

two distinctive styles; Surrealism<br />

and Abstract Expressionism. The art<br />

of Surrealism is a style that was fi rst<br />

developed from direct Surrealist<br />

infl uences in New York following<br />

WWII and is still recognised today.<br />

This forms the core of the collection<br />

while the second part of the collection<br />

focuses on the early works of Abstract<br />

Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner<br />

Pietzsch collection began over 40<br />

years ago and comprises of over 180<br />

artistic pieces by some of the world’s<br />

most infl uential artists, such as Max<br />

Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning.<br />

Walking around this remarkable gallery<br />

are amazing pieces of art that go from<br />

stunning to bizarre, fantastical to<br />

grotesque. What’s more the artists’<br />

surreal and abstract styles are<br />

perfectly presented throughout the<br />

exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity<br />

and wonder around each corner.<br />

The exhibition illustrates the<br />

development of abstract expressionism<br />

and surrealism and it is truly amazing<br />

how each artist individually conveys<br />

this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can<br />

be found on the website.<br />

Museum fur Film und<br />

Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum)<br />

www.deutsche-kinemathek.de.<br />

U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel:<br />

+49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am-<br />

6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50<br />

concession<br />

A treasure to fi lm enthusiasts and<br />

history nuts alike, this museum Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the<br />

focuses on the last 100 years of permanent exhibition is a temporary<br />

German fi lm history. A particular “Moments in Time 1989/1990” display.<br />

emphasis is placed on the golden Following the fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> wall<br />

era, when <strong>Berlin</strong> came close to and aware that their protest could<br />

matching those of Hollywood. no longer be stopped, <strong>Berlin</strong>ers<br />

Upon entering, be sure to grab the<br />

free audio guide. Take a wander<br />

through the permanent exhibition.<br />

Images invert and skew and refl ect<br />

as mirrors and irregular walls almost<br />

convey a walk within the confi nes<br />

of the lens of a camera. Black<br />

and white fi lms are beautifully<br />

juxtaposed against the modern<br />

interior decor and each exhibit is<br />

insightful and to the point. Presented<br />

chronologically, classic fi lm fans will<br />

relish behind-the-scenes glimpses<br />

of fi lms including “Das Cabinet Des<br />

Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis”<br />

increasingly felt a desire to capture<br />

events on fi lm. Taken by private<br />

individuals in diverse and personal<br />

ways, the presentation sheds some<br />

additional light on the most important<br />

period in post-war German history<br />

in a colourful and insightful manner.<br />

Leaving as much to the imagination as<br />

objectively illustrating the events and<br />

emotions felt at the time, the display<br />

is a rare insight into the events of 1989<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> from the perspectives of directly<br />

affected individuals set comparatively<br />

against worldwide news reports issued<br />

at the same time.<br />

77 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 78


Arts & Culture<br />

Zoologischer Garten<br />

Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn -<br />

Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30<br />

25401- 0, info@zoo-berlin.deOpened<br />

in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in<br />

Germany and one of the largest<br />

zoos in the world, with the widest<br />

variety of species which doesn’t fail<br />

to impress from the moment you<br />

step through the gates. The park<br />

itself is visually stunning with lush<br />

green trees and intermittent water<br />

features.<br />

Even if you’re not interested<br />

in the surrounding the sheer<br />

range of species won’t leave you<br />

disappointed. With around 14,000<br />

animals, there is plenty to see and a<br />

lot of ground to cover. Give yourself<br />

plenty of time for the visit as it is<br />

very easy to spend the best part of the<br />

day there, and comfortable footwear<br />

is defi nitely recommended. There are<br />

plenty of places to get a drink or snack<br />

within the park and also there is a large<br />

restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie,<br />

located at the heart of the zoo.<br />

One of the best times of day to see<br />

the animals is at feeding time and<br />

the times are posted on signs at the<br />

enclosures. Unfortunately there are<br />

no free maps and information leafl ets,<br />

although there is a map in the back of<br />

the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which<br />

will set you back €4.<br />

If you don’t want to shell out for a<br />

book there are maps located at regular<br />

intervals around the zoo and it is fairly<br />

easy to navigate or you can download<br />

a plan of the zoo from their website.<br />

Kunst und Trödel Märkte<br />

www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de.<br />

Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026<br />

550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat-<br />

Sun 10am-5pm<br />

The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring<br />

Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt<br />

are bustling, busy <strong>Berlin</strong> weekend<br />

markets that offer an interesting<br />

and distinctive experience. They<br />

boast unique artifacts and clothing<br />

and there are great bargains to be<br />

had, especially if you’re ready to<br />

haggle.<br />

At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the<br />

muddle of second-hand and vintage<br />

clothing and jewellery, antique<br />

furniture and silverware, old<br />

paintings, collector’s coins and used<br />

records and books, there is sure<br />

to be something that catches your<br />

eye.<br />

The Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt<br />

is located just through the<br />

Charlottenburg Gate and across<br />

the Landswehrkanal from the<br />

Trödelmarkt. Here local artists and<br />

designers display and sell their work<br />

including jewellery, wooden toys,<br />

ceramics, paintings and clothing.<br />

The selection ranges from gaudy to<br />

tasteful but all items are certainly<br />

original.<br />

Arts & Culture<br />

Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz<br />

www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de<br />

Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn:<br />

Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 3025 59270.<br />

Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.<br />

For the mainstream shopping<br />

experience, head to Arkaden. Situated<br />

in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer<br />

Platz, this three-storey complex<br />

epitomises what this oncehistoric<br />

site now has to offer. The commercial<br />

shopping mall houses European fashion<br />

favourites such as Mango, H&M and<br />

Zara as well as Tommy Hilfi ger and<br />

Swarovski for the high-end shoppers.<br />

While including internationally<br />

renowned stores and commonplace<br />

establishments like McDonalds and<br />

Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a<br />

moderate selection of German gems.<br />

Take a look in Bree for a selection<br />

of <strong>Berlin</strong>-made leather handbags or<br />

try Sergio Engel for locally produced<br />

jewellery.<br />

79 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 80


Arts & Culture<br />

Rowing in the Tiergarten<br />

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn:<br />

Tiergarten/Zoological.<br />

25 44 930.<br />

Tel:30<br />

The lake in the Tiergarten is the<br />

perfect place to relax. On the<br />

grassy shores of Neuer See are<br />

relaxing deck chairs where you<br />

can take a nap, or enjoy a beer<br />

from the nearby beer garden<br />

(see page). For those looking<br />

for a bit of fun, you can also<br />

rent rowboats and go exploring.<br />

On jumping into the boats, it<br />

doesn’t seem like you have far<br />

to go. Although the late isn’t<br />

huge, there are many little<br />

passageways that adventurers<br />

can paddle through and explore.<br />

Watch out for fi sh, ducks, and<br />

the rare turtle. The odd collision<br />

with another boat is always a<br />

possibility. Prices for the boats<br />

start at €5 for 30minutes and<br />

€10 for 60minutes. Up to fi ve<br />

people can fi t in the boat and<br />

life vests are provided if needed.<br />

The rental is inexpensive for<br />

budgeting travellers who have<br />

a few friends to share the boat<br />

with.<br />

Cafe an Neuen See<br />

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/<br />

Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:<br />

€5-15.<br />

Charm and atmosphere surround<br />

this quaint little beer garden<br />

nestled in the north-west corner of<br />

the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending<br />

in with the surrounding green areas<br />

the English Garden remains one<br />

of the hidden gems in the massive<br />

park. This particular stop can prove<br />

a bit challenging to fi nd due to its<br />

size and unpretentious demeanour,<br />

however a little navigating and<br />

exploring will yield a highly enjoyable<br />

experience.<br />

Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof<br />

cottage, it’s not diffi cult to see why<br />

the beer garden has been granted its<br />

moniker. Echoing scenes of English<br />

countryside, this establishment<br />

provides a well needed break from<br />

the hustle and bustle of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

outside the Tiergarten boundaries.<br />

Look for the English Garden on a<br />

weekday and you could easily miss it.<br />

Look for it on a weekend, and all you<br />

need to do is follow the jazz music.<br />

Every weekend the English Garden<br />

is host to a slew of jazz ensembles<br />

which draw a large crowd to the<br />

otherwise calm watering hole.<br />

Food & Drink<br />

Music played until sunset combined<br />

with the beautiful urroundings makes<br />

this place an inevitable stop on a<br />

weekend Tiergarten stroll.<br />

Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2<br />

to €4. Food starts from €4 with their<br />

menu (although slightly limited in<br />

hot foods) provides an extensive icecream<br />

and milkshake list. On the<br />

weekends, during jazz concerts the<br />

English Garden also opens additional<br />

food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish<br />

and other world cuisines.<br />

English Garden<br />

Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/<br />

Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:<br />

€5-15.<br />

Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer<br />

garden tops the list. Cold beer, good<br />

food and a magical atmosphere awaits<br />

your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden<br />

in the trees, you can rent boats and<br />

row around the lake or take over some<br />

deckchairs on the grass.<br />

Dinner will set you back around 10€.<br />

Grab eine Maß (a pint of beer) and<br />

fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of fi nely<br />

ground corned beef, pork and onions)<br />

with potato salad, snuggle onto one of<br />

the communal tables – don’t be shy,<br />

and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere<br />

with some friends.<br />

81 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 82


Food & Drink<br />

Let’s be honest...<br />

Potsdammer Platz is expensive,<br />

touristy and lacking in quality<br />

when it comes to food and<br />

drink. You would be much<br />

better hopping on the U -Bahn<br />

and going elsewhere. If you<br />

absolutely must dine here,<br />

listed below are a few places<br />

you could try. If they don’t<br />

tempt you numerous generic<br />

restaurants and bars can be<br />

found in the Sony centre.<br />

Weilands Wellfood<br />

www.weilands-wellfood.de<br />

Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn:<br />

Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717<br />

If feeling a bit bloated after too<br />

much beer and bratwurst, head<br />

to this wholesome self-service<br />

buffet. Satisfying the most health<br />

conscious consumers, benefi t from<br />

salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat<br />

pasta dishes. Reasonably priced<br />

averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be<br />

warned that fl avours may differ<br />

from what’s advertised. Free WiFi<br />

available.<br />

Billy Wilders<br />

www.billywilders.de Potsdamer<br />

Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz<br />

Tel: 030-26 55 48 60<br />

Much like its namesake, Billy<br />

Wilder’s offers something a little<br />

different from its contemporaries.<br />

Surrounded on all fronts by<br />

corporate brands and identikit bars,<br />

this bar is a pocket of character in<br />

an otherwise bland area. Presided<br />

over by a large portrait of the<br />

acclaimed director, responsible for<br />

the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting<br />

around the curved bar drinking tall<br />

drinks whilst admiring the sleek art<br />

deco interior is glamorous nostalgia,<br />

all the more emphatic in its contrast<br />

to the concrete jungle outside its<br />

doors. Just a lift ride away from<br />

the Museum of Cinema, there is no<br />

more fi tting way to refl ect on the<br />

golden age of Hollywood. They say<br />

they don’t make like they used to;<br />

well, in this case they do. Prices are<br />

however indicative of the area so<br />

best to get there during happy hour.<br />

83 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 84


Freidrichshain Information<br />

An up and coming neighbourhood<br />

in East <strong>Berlin</strong>, Friedrichshain offers<br />

travellers a look into <strong>Berlin</strong>’s vibrant<br />

bar, café, club, and restaurant<br />

culture.<br />

The neighbourhood boasts an<br />

extensive nightlife where travellers<br />

can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse,<br />

enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the<br />

beach bars on the Spree, experience<br />

the underground punk scene, or have<br />

a sleepless weekend gyrating on a<br />

dance fl oor until Sunday afternoon.<br />

Friedrichshain is unmistakeably<br />

a neighbourhood of the East with<br />

Socialist architecture and its grand<br />

boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx-<br />

Allee, formerly Stalinallee.<br />

The East Side Gallery is the star<br />

tourist attraction of this district. It is<br />

the longest intact part of the <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Wall, with many murals created by<br />

known and unknown artists alike.<br />

Gentrifi cation is quickly closing in<br />

on this eccentric neighbourhood.<br />

The O2 World Arena recently opened<br />

and there are plans to continue<br />

developing and do away with many of<br />

the quirks like its famed beach bars,<br />

which make this neighbourhood tick.<br />

Hopefully, the area will survive this<br />

demolition and continue to fl ourish<br />

under <strong>Berlin</strong>’s counter culture.<br />

85 Freidrichshain 86


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

East Side Gallery<br />

w w w. e a s t s i d e g a l l e r y. c o m .<br />

Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/<br />

Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission.<br />

Located in an area where sightseeing<br />

is all but void this 1.3km long stretch<br />

of the former <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall is now<br />

home to murals created by 118<br />

artists around the world. Opening<br />

as a gallery in 1990 the section is a<br />

celebration of the fall of the wall and<br />

a symbol of freedom and expression.<br />

It is also the longest remaining<br />

section of this concrete divider left<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Upon approaching this outdoor<br />

gallery the €2.2 million restoration<br />

process taking place is evident.<br />

Freshly reconditioned murals shine<br />

out beside the rawness of original<br />

sections scarred by weathering and<br />

often less artistic graffi ti. The gallery<br />

is now being renovated in stages in<br />

preparation for the 20th anniversary<br />

of the reunifi cation of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’<br />

process as only 80% of the original<br />

artists were able to be contacted to<br />

restore their own pieces.<br />

Famous murals which have been<br />

replicated without the artists’<br />

permission include “God help<br />

me to survive this deadly love”,<br />

by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which<br />

portrays communist leaders Erich<br />

Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked<br />

in a passionate embrace. Another<br />

iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly<br />

illustrates an East German Trabant<br />

bursting through the Wall in a<br />

symbolic representation of a failed<br />

escape attempt. A visit to the sight<br />

before the fi nal section is repainted<br />

allows the visitor the form their own<br />

opinion on which best represents<br />

freedom and expression.<br />

87 88


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Qrazy:Ling’s<br />

www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13<br />

Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493<br />

157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pmlate,<br />

Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to<br />

€9.<br />

The strikingly colourful graffi ti façade<br />

of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out<br />

authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but<br />

on entrance you’ll fi nd an intricate<br />

hand-made décor and an impressive<br />

menu of mouth-watering delights.<br />

Vietnamese food is all about fresh<br />

ingredients and fragrant aromas and<br />

Qrazy:Ling’s food certainly embraces<br />

this tradition.<br />

Whether you go for the traditional<br />

simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho<br />

or the rice noodles with deliciously<br />

marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will<br />

be surprised at how much fl avour<br />

one mouthful can deliver. The main<br />

meals are generously portioned with<br />

affordable prices so you won’t go<br />

home feeling hungry at the slightest.<br />

Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected<br />

via an arch to art store Quality<br />

Lovers which explains why this<br />

traditional Vietnamese restaurant<br />

has such a quirky modern feel and a<br />

relaxed atmosphere to match.<br />

Service can be slow with big groups,<br />

but for Ling’s utterly delectable<br />

food, it is defi nitely worth the wait.<br />

Cayetanom Mediterranean<br />

Restaurant<br />

Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn:<br />

Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730<br />

042. Price: €5-10.<br />

Settled in amongst trendy shops,<br />

ice-cream parlors and cobblestone<br />

pathways, Cayetano is perfectly<br />

located for a mid-day sustenance<br />

break. A number of outdoor tables<br />

provide a cool, shaded atmosphere<br />

for eating, drinking and peoplewatching<br />

and the servers are<br />

courteous and hospitable. The<br />

portions are generous and come<br />

with a fresh side salad as well as<br />

soft, white bread.<br />

The diner can choose between a<br />

number of items, ranging from<br />

American-style burgers, Italian<br />

pasta dishes and typical German<br />

fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly<br />

doused with tangy feta and balsamic,<br />

the salads are perfect for lunch and<br />

not to be missed in the evening is the<br />

fi lling spätzle dishes: small potato<br />

dumplings smothered with fresh herbs<br />

and dotted with mushrooms, carrots<br />

and chicken. Vegetarian options are<br />

also available. Whether it’s for a<br />

fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break<br />

or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers<br />

it all in the way of a smiling staff,<br />

fi lling food and a soothing setting.<br />

If you’re in the area on Sunday,<br />

Cayetano also offers an all-you-caneat<br />

brunch on Sundays from 10am-<br />

3pm.<br />

89 90


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar<br />

www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn:<br />

Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse.<br />

Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49<br />

3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am,<br />

Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10.<br />

Situated on a busy street bursting<br />

with worldwide cuisines at every<br />

turn, Don is the place to be for<br />

deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic<br />

cocktails.<br />

Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour<br />

of up to 50% off selected dishes<br />

from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s<br />

starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish,<br />

it’s a great way of trying the large<br />

range of sushi they have on offer.<br />

You can even watch the sushi chef at<br />

work as he makes your sushi, which<br />

adds a personal touch, and you can<br />

be guaranteed that the fi sh is fresh!<br />

Although the portions are slightly on<br />

the small side the reduced price that<br />

you pay means you are getting your<br />

money’s worth, rather than being<br />

overcharged for normal prices.<br />

Sushi is usually associated with sake<br />

and green tea, so it may seem odd<br />

that Don Sushi offers a variety of<br />

cocktails alongside its sushi menu.<br />

Starting from €4 per glass, they are<br />

refreshing little treats at the end of<br />

a long day or alternatively the start<br />

of a long night of exploring the city.<br />

A handy tip: there is only one sushi<br />

chef so it is recommended to go in<br />

smaller groups to avoid a long wait,<br />

as all orders for the same table arrive<br />

together.<br />

Cafe Sibylle<br />

Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn:<br />

Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz.<br />

Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm.<br />

Price: €0-5.<br />

With a unique history spanning<br />

back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle,<br />

originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles<br />

as both a cafe, and a communist<br />

museum.<br />

The cafe offers an assortment of<br />

freshly baked cakes, ice-cream,<br />

sandwiches, as well as a great<br />

selection of cocktails, and nonalcoholic<br />

drinks. While waiting for<br />

your order, you are free to walk<br />

around, and look at their collection<br />

of Eastern Germany-era artifacts.<br />

Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor<br />

and outdoor seating. This unusual,<br />

half-furnished cafe does a great<br />

job meshing together modern art<br />

with its utilitarian past. Behind<br />

the brightly colored statues and<br />

paintings, it is still possible to see<br />

the bland colourless walls from its<br />

GDR days.<br />

With rhythmic jazz music in the<br />

background and their eclectic décor,<br />

indoors is a great place to sit and<br />

chat, or to get some work done.<br />

Outdoor seating might require a<br />

wait, but it does provide a great view<br />

of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee.<br />

This historical street, renamed after<br />

Stalin was removed from power, was<br />

where East <strong>Berlin</strong>ers used to watch<br />

the tanks roll by during the annual<br />

military parades.<br />

With some coffee, cake, and<br />

communism, this is an enjoyable way<br />

to learn about an important piece of<br />

German history.<br />

91 92


Nightlife Nightlife<br />

Lebowski’s<br />

www.kneipe-lebowski.de.<br />

Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn:<br />

Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733<br />

561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price:<br />

€2-5.<br />

An upside down bowling alley peering<br />

down on patrons as they happily sip<br />

away at their white Russians sets<br />

the scene for this Friedrichshain<br />

institution. Lebowski’s, a bar<br />

based around the cult movie The<br />

Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array<br />

of colourful characters, most of<br />

which have taken the movie’s main<br />

character, The Dude, as a style icon,<br />

donning trench coats, long hair and<br />

even longer unkempt beards.<br />

Lebowski’s manages to avoid the<br />

common corny and trite pitfalls that<br />

other themed bars tend to suffer<br />

from. Managing to perfectly strike a<br />

balance between paying tribute to<br />

the cult movie while maintaining the<br />

charm and charisma of the <strong>Berlin</strong> dive<br />

bar scene, this watering hole serves<br />

up heaps of personality. Wooden<br />

columns and secluded nooks provide<br />

an intimate and fun atmosphere for<br />

a relaxed drink or an absinth-soaked<br />

night of craziness.<br />

The walls are covered with effi gies<br />

of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman<br />

and Steve Buscemi, portraying their<br />

characters in the movie and during<br />

themed nights the movie is played<br />

repeatedly on screens throughout the<br />

bar; walk into the restrooms of this<br />

weird and wonderful bar and you can<br />

hear The Big Lebowski through the<br />

loudspeakers dubbed into German.<br />

This drinking establishment has<br />

certainly been built by fans of the<br />

movie for fans of the movie.<br />

As such, no fan should leave without<br />

having a White Russian, The Dude’s<br />

favourite drink. White Russians will<br />

run at €4.90 while draught beer runs<br />

at under €3.<br />

Cassiopeia<br />

www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler<br />

Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer<br />

Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594.<br />

Entry: €4-8.<br />

Along Friedrichshain’s infamous<br />

Simon-Dach-Straße you can fi nd a<br />

vast array of bars but for something<br />

a bit different head towards Revaler<br />

Straße to stumble across the underworld<br />

that is Cassiopeia.<br />

There are two club fl oors that host a<br />

wide range of musicians and djs from<br />

a local standard right up to internationally<br />

renowned acts. Open every<br />

night of the week except Mondays<br />

you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock,<br />

hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n<br />

bass and much more but be sure to<br />

check on their website to fi nd out<br />

what’s on.<br />

Set in over 4,000m² of old factory<br />

halls there is plenty of space to let<br />

yourself go and soak up the unique<br />

experience that this place has to offer.<br />

Once inside the compound there<br />

is a great feeling of separation from<br />

the outside world due to the high<br />

factory walls and towering trees but<br />

you are given an enormous sense of<br />

freedom by the sheer vastness of it<br />

all.<br />

93 94


Astro<br />

Nightlife Nightlife<br />

Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U-<br />

Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3<br />

029 661 615.<br />

This sci-fi themed bar is always an<br />

excellent place to start or fi nish<br />

the night. It’s often guaranteed to<br />

attract a fairly young crowd including<br />

a number of tourists and with the<br />

intimacy of the place it’s great for<br />

meeting new people from all walks<br />

of life.<br />

Hanging from the ceiling are robots<br />

and behind the bar is made to look like<br />

the control panel of a space shuttle.<br />

Go through to the back room and<br />

they even have the game Asteroids<br />

playing behind glass panels.<br />

Aside from the space adventure the<br />

drinks are reasonably priced and<br />

the bar staff are often very friendly.<br />

There are a wide range of cocktails<br />

which are all large and very strong -<br />

highly recommended is the caipirinha<br />

for €5.<br />

There is always good music playing<br />

from electro to punk to reggae and<br />

on weekends there are live DJ sets.<br />

Granted there is no room to dance<br />

but foot tapping and moderate hip<br />

movements are encouraged.<br />

Kptn A. Müller<br />

www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse<br />

32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer<br />

Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks<br />

€0-4.<br />

There is one reason you have<br />

to visit this bar – the drinks are<br />

cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the<br />

mismatched decor might be as well,<br />

it just adds to the atmosphere and<br />

at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg<br />

who’s complaining?<br />

It’s not just the beer either, cocktails<br />

are mostly available at around €3.50<br />

and they are not shy of alcohol either.<br />

Basically your fi rst €10 will get you a<br />

long way.<br />

The only downside is that it can be<br />

a little cramped and the outside<br />

seating and tables are packed away<br />

at about 11.30pm. However this<br />

should not deter, if all the seats are<br />

taken you can stand up and play<br />

table football in the back room.<br />

Internationales <strong>Berlin</strong>er<br />

Bierfestival<br />

www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl-<br />

Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor<br />

or Strausberger Platz. First weekend<br />

of August. Free admittance.<br />

On the fi rst weekend of every August<br />

Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into<br />

what has been dubbed as ‘the<br />

longest beer garden in the world’.<br />

Running from Frankfurter Tor to<br />

Strausberger Platz, the <strong>Berlin</strong> ‘Beer<br />

Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000<br />

guests sampling 1800 varieties of<br />

beer from around the world.<br />

The International Beer Festival is<br />

a vibrant blend of entertainment,<br />

eating, drinking and a great place<br />

to catch a glimpse of <strong>Berlin</strong>ers at<br />

play. Attracting a mix of young, old,<br />

tourists and locals alike the crowd<br />

is as diverse as the choice of beers.<br />

An assortment of live music keeps<br />

the slow moving crowd entertained<br />

as they amble through. Taster mugs,<br />

available on entry for €3.50, are a<br />

convenient way of sampling the vast<br />

range of beer on offer.<br />

Also be sure to stop at one of the<br />

reasonably priced food stalls for<br />

a beer-complimenting snack such<br />

as currywurst or potato salad. A<br />

mishmash of unique architecture,<br />

novelty hats and quirky waitresses<br />

make this event well worth a visit.<br />

However be aware of a change in<br />

atmosphere after dark as the relaxed<br />

environment is often disrupted by<br />

those who have had one too many in<br />

the sun.<br />

95 96


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

Eastern Comfort Hostel<br />

Boat<br />

www.easterncomfort.com.<br />

Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U-<br />

Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: +<br />

49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am-<br />

12am.<br />

Prices:<br />

1st class cabins:<br />

€64-78<br />

Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19<br />

Dorms: cost €16pp<br />

Camping costs €12pp<br />

For those looking for a bit of<br />

adventure on the open seas, or in<br />

this case the open Spree, the Eastern<br />

Comfort Hostelboat is ideal.<br />

Straddling two up-and-coming<br />

neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and<br />

Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the<br />

ideal location. The hostel itself has<br />

kept its original design and offers<br />

fi rst- and second-class cabins on the<br />

upper and lower decks of the ship.<br />

First class is on the upper deck, and<br />

includes private rooms with their<br />

own bathrooms and views of the<br />

East Side Gallery or the Spree River.<br />

The lower deck is for aspiring sailors<br />

with a tight budget. The rooms are<br />

dorm style complete with their own<br />

bathrooms and portholes overlooking<br />

the river. There is also an option for<br />

campers, who can set up tents on the<br />

back of the boat. The fl oating lounge<br />

on the top deck is a must see.<br />

* Internet available<br />

* Free wi-fi<br />

* Breakfast €4<br />

* Bedding €5/byo<br />

* No curfew<br />

* Bicycle-hire<br />

* Laundry service<br />

Ostel - Das GDR Design<br />

Hostel<br />

www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5.<br />

S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025<br />

768 660.<br />

Prices:<br />

Dorm room: €9<br />

Single room: €33<br />

Double room: €54<br />

Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to<br />

re-live the days of the GDR before<br />

the wall fell? Then the Ostel Hostel<br />

is an excellent choice.<br />

The hostel has embraced the idea of<br />

Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for<br />

life in the former GDR, which is still<br />

present in <strong>Berlin</strong>er society today.<br />

Each room had been decorated to<br />

emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete<br />

with typical GDR household items,<br />

such as patterned wallpaper, mod<br />

lamps, and shag carpeting.<br />

The hostel is not the most social<br />

hostel since rooms are spread out<br />

between a series of apartment<br />

buildings, but each room is<br />

immaculately clean and has its own<br />

bathroom and a balcony.<br />

The staff are very friendly and<br />

helpful and always willing to answer<br />

questions. The hostel is located a few<br />

metres from the Ostbahnhof station,<br />

which is just a few stops away from<br />

Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte.<br />

* Breakfast €4.50<br />

* Bike rental<br />

* Wi-fi<br />

97 98


Kreuzberg Information<br />

Kreuzberg is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s bastion of<br />

counterculture, famous for its<br />

punks, squatters, alternative art<br />

scene and May Day riots. The Eastern<br />

section, from Kottbusser Tor to the<br />

Spree River, is the grittiest, and<br />

the place where the squat scene<br />

developed during the Cold War.<br />

The area remains <strong>Berlin</strong>’s centre of<br />

alternative politics and nightlife,<br />

with a profusion of riverside bars<br />

and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of<br />

the main streets, and Wiener Straβe,<br />

Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische<br />

Straβe are also good for nightlife<br />

and cheap eateries.<br />

Along with its bohemian residents,<br />

Kreuzberg is home to <strong>Berlin</strong>’s<br />

largest Turkish community, with<br />

one in three residents of Turkish<br />

origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’<br />

were invited to <strong>Berlin</strong> after cheap<br />

East German labour was made<br />

unavailable when the wall went up.<br />

It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born<br />

Mahmut Aygun invented the doner<br />

kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still<br />

stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The<br />

area teems with kebab shops, and<br />

every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish<br />

market spills out along the river at<br />

the Maybachufer.<br />

The area to the West of Kottbusser<br />

Tor is slightly more upmarket.<br />

Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and<br />

the streets around Viktoriapark are<br />

some of the liveliest for shops and<br />

cafes. The more conventional tourist<br />

attractions are also in the West,<br />

and include the Jewish Museum and<br />

Checkpoint Charlie.<br />

99 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 100


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>ische Galerie<br />

(<strong>Berlin</strong> Gallery)<br />

Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn:<br />

Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26<br />

00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8.<br />

A vivid yellow fi eld of seemingly<br />

jumbled letters initially lures the eye<br />

at the entrance of the <strong>Berlin</strong>ische<br />

Galerie: <strong>Berlin</strong>’s Museum of Modern<br />

Art, Photography, and Architecture.<br />

Inside the gallery almost overfl ows<br />

with themes including the<br />

secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New<br />

Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group,<br />

Russians in <strong>Berlin</strong> and the avante<br />

garde.<br />

Originally a private institution<br />

situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau,<br />

the gallery relocated to its new<br />

location in 2004, designed by Huhn<br />

Malvessi, and has fl ourished into<br />

an excellent national gallery with<br />

an international reputation. The<br />

industrial hall holds many temporary<br />

exhibitions to accompany its<br />

permanent one, as well as lectures,<br />

archives, a library, movies and music.<br />

First Monday of the month has the<br />

cheapest entry at only €2. There is<br />

also reduced admission with a ticket<br />

from the Jewish Museum on the day<br />

of visit and the next two days.<br />

Anhalter Bahnhof<br />

Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn:<br />

Anhalter Bahnhof.<br />

For a fragmentary glimpse of one<br />

of the greatest structural triumphs<br />

of <strong>Berlin</strong>, Anhalter Bahnhof is an<br />

essential place to pay a visit. Today<br />

you are faced only with its imposing<br />

façade on Askanischer Platz. Yet it is<br />

the station’s strong visual presence<br />

and its history that should inspire<br />

you to visit.<br />

Alongside the architectural and<br />

technological grandeur of the<br />

station, lies the horrifi c role that it<br />

played in holocaust history. In total,<br />

the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation<br />

convoys, usually consisting of 50 or<br />

100 people at a time. Nearly 10,000<br />

victims were deported by means<br />

of this station to await their fate.<br />

Bombing in the Second World War<br />

partially ruined the Bahnhof. After<br />

falling into decay and disrepair,<br />

it was sadly demolished in 1961,<br />

leaving only its present remnants.<br />

First built in 1839, in the relatively<br />

early days of locomotives, the train<br />

station was modest in size and<br />

appearance. The 19th century, the<br />

age of mass industry, cried for a<br />

greater demand for passenger and<br />

freight trains. These demands were<br />

before long answered and in 1875<br />

the architect Franz Schwechten<br />

(who also designed Kaiser William<br />

Memorial Church) received the task<br />

of enlarging the station. Considered<br />

a masterpiece of railroad station<br />

construction in its day, Anhalter<br />

101 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 102


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the<br />

South” for <strong>Berlin</strong>ers.<br />

Jüdisches Museum<br />

(Jewish Museum)<br />

www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 –<br />

14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Tel: +49<br />

3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm,<br />

Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission:<br />

€2.50-€5.<br />

Since its inauguration in 2001, the<br />

Jüdisches Museum has attracted over<br />

350,000 visitors. Thousands came<br />

even before the museum was fully<br />

open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold<br />

and innovative architecture. The<br />

museum’s alien appearance demands<br />

attention, and it is worthwhile to<br />

take a moment before entering to<br />

stop and appreciate this.<br />

The museum’s exterior, an angular<br />

external structure, resembles a<br />

thundering lightning bolt, possibly<br />

representing a deconstructed Star<br />

of David. Its modern metallic facing<br />

is at odds with the baroque facade<br />

of the Kollegienhaus, once an<br />

administrative building to the Court<br />

of Justice in the 18th Century. This<br />

now serves as the entrance to the<br />

Jewish Museum, and connects to the<br />

Libeskind building via a black slate<br />

staircase which leads you to the<br />

main exhibition space.<br />

Upon descending the stairs, you are<br />

presented with a path system of<br />

connecting axes, symbolising three<br />

realities in the history of German<br />

Jews. The Axis of Emigration details<br />

the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s,<br />

eventually leading outside to the<br />

Garden of Exile. The slanting fl oors<br />

and narrowing walls channel the<br />

visitor along the corridor, until you<br />

open the heavy iron door to step<br />

outside into the disorientating and<br />

confusing maze of concrete pillars.<br />

In comparison, The Axis of the<br />

Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits<br />

personal items of Holocaust victims,<br />

such as letters and photographs, and<br />

terminates at the end of the passage<br />

with the commemorative Holocaust<br />

Tower. The Axis of Continuity<br />

connects the Old Building with the<br />

main staircase, which leads up to<br />

the vast permanent exhibition on<br />

the second fl oor.<br />

Be sure to stop half-way up the main<br />

staircase and explore Kadishman’s<br />

abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen<br />

Leaves), dedicated to victims of<br />

war and violence. The cavernous<br />

hall is fi lled with 10,000 iron faces,<br />

a look of open-mouth terror hacked<br />

into each one. Strewn across the<br />

fl oor, the faces clank together as<br />

people walk though the room,<br />

shattering the silence.<br />

At the top of the staircase<br />

the permanent exhibition<br />

begins, showcasing 2000<br />

years of Jewish history and<br />

culture in Germany. Whilst<br />

their struggle for integration<br />

is well-documented, it is their<br />

achievements that are the focus<br />

of the exhibition. The museum<br />

uses artwork, photographs,<br />

letters and biographies of<br />

both ordinary Jewish people<br />

and prominent historical<br />

fi gures, to fully illustrate the<br />

impact Jewish people had on<br />

society. The central theme of<br />

the museum is the enormous<br />

contribution the Jewish<br />

population makes to Western<br />

culture, and they are presented<br />

as a race alive with intellect,<br />

creativity, perseverance and<br />

strength of faith.<br />

The Jüdisches Museum is<br />

an example of an architect<br />

wanting visitors to approach<br />

the museum with willingness<br />

to engage with his work and<br />

create an emotional link<br />

between people and exhibits.<br />

The museum is completely out<br />

of the ordinary, and an utterly<br />

103 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 104


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Alternative Living<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s alternative scene is vast<br />

and runs deep within the city’s<br />

districts. From the peculiar cabaret<br />

to the scene of punks that frequently<br />

doze on the lawn at Warshauer<br />

Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and<br />

growing culture here. For many the<br />

attraction of the underground scene<br />

is its secretive and elusive nature.<br />

The remarkable old squats along the<br />

river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer<br />

to remain tourist free – utmost<br />

respect must be practiced at all<br />

times if a visit is made, after all it<br />

is somebody’s home - and those who<br />

are in the know, often like to keep<br />

it top secret. This helps to maintain<br />

the immensely mysterious air to the<br />

scene.<br />

The glowing history of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s squat<br />

scene and the acquisition of such<br />

buildings often follow a similar<br />

story. The fall of the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall saw<br />

a swarm of people move from east<br />

to west which left many buildings in<br />

the east uninhabited. These began<br />

to be snapped up either by artists<br />

who desired such spaces for their<br />

work, or by those who disliked the<br />

capitalist culture of the west. Thus<br />

the squatting culture in East <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

was born. The artistic and political<br />

aspects still remain and may be seen<br />

in the large-scale graffi ti art or the<br />

anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on<br />

fl ags and buildings.<br />

Although Kreuzberg now resembles<br />

the - graffi ti-covered - cloak of<br />

eastern districts, it was actually<br />

located in West <strong>Berlin</strong>. Being<br />

surrounded by the wall on three<br />

sides and a stone’s throw from East<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>, it was deemed an undesirable<br />

location to live, although very<br />

cheap. The low costs attracted a<br />

population of students, immigrants<br />

and artists, subsequently turning<br />

Kreuzberg into an important<br />

hub of multicultural, artistic<br />

and intellectual development.<br />

After the fall of the wall the<br />

migration of artists to eastern<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> allowed Kreuzberg to<br />

fl ourish into the vivacious<br />

district that it is now known to<br />

be.<br />

Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and<br />

often rather quirky, nightlife<br />

means that getting lost is often<br />

an exciting venture and can<br />

be rewarded by a great fi nd.<br />

Despite this, orientating oneself<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong> can also be quite a<br />

struggle at times and although<br />

the prospect of traipsing the<br />

tourist sites of the city with<br />

a large group isn’t everyone’s<br />

cup of tea, tours are a great<br />

way to become familiar with<br />

certain areas. An Alternative<br />

Tour is a great introduction to<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s underground scene as<br />

it offers an historical overview<br />

of the numerous squats and<br />

street graffi ti art. There are a<br />

few companies that run them<br />

on a daily basis (Alternative<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> and New <strong>Berlin</strong>).<br />

Many squats are now categorised<br />

as housing projects as they<br />

have contractual agreements<br />

105 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 106


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

and pay (a very minimal) rent.<br />

They run local community projects<br />

offering, among other things: Kino -<br />

cinema screenings; Voku - low priced<br />

food; and a range of workshops to<br />

disadvantaged people in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

There are art galleries and poetry<br />

readings in others.<br />

The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is<br />

a great place to get a feel for the<br />

community-minded mentality that<br />

runs through<br />

much of the<br />

u n d e r g r o u n d<br />

scene in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

There are around<br />

60 different<br />

projects running<br />

there ranging<br />

from night<br />

clubs to circus<br />

schools. A huge<br />

and impressive skate park has been<br />

built and acts as a centre piece for<br />

the old squat. Residents allow the<br />

public an opportunity to wander<br />

through, grab a coffee, take pictures<br />

of the graffi ti and truly participate in<br />

the projects they run or the parties<br />

they throw.<br />

So take a stroll or get a bike and<br />

explore the streets of Kreuzberg and<br />

Friedrichshain to see what you can<br />

fi nd.<br />

The Alternative Tour<br />

www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel:<br />

+49 1 628 198 264. Meets every<br />

day at 11am and 1pm, outside<br />

Starbucks, under the TV tower at<br />

Alexanderplatz.<br />

The Alternative Tour was a great<br />

way to see a whole different<br />

side to <strong>Berlin</strong>. The fi rst thing<br />

to remember is the difference<br />

between tagging and art, although<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> has a lot of both. The laws<br />

here don’t require building owners<br />

to remove graffi ti, and as it is<br />

such an expensive process, many<br />

just don’t bother. Because of<br />

this, <strong>Berlin</strong>’s street art is forever<br />

changing.<br />

An informative guide takes you<br />

all around the city, through some<br />

of Mitte’s back streets, past the<br />

Raw Temple in Friedrichshain,<br />

and especially around Kreuzberg.<br />

Some artists are well-known, such<br />

as El Bacho; and characters such<br />

as Little Lucy. After the tour you<br />

will see a whole new <strong>Berlin</strong>, and<br />

constantly be on the lookout for<br />

particular artists.<br />

107 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 108


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Deutsches Technikmuseum<br />

www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Strasse 9.<br />

U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke. Telephone:<br />

+49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am-<br />

5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed<br />

Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50.<br />

The German Technical Museum<br />

offers a cultural history of<br />

Germany’s industrial technology.<br />

Don’t be fooled by the title because<br />

this museum offers interest in many<br />

different areas extending from<br />

The Deutsches Technikmuseum.<br />

railways to fi lmography.<br />

Formally one of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s industrial<br />

sites dating back to 1874, which is<br />

easily noticeable in the buildings<br />

architecture, it has become one of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s most appealing museums.<br />

The layout comprises of eight<br />

different sections, each is astounding<br />

and unpredictable. From walking<br />

through the textile and papermaking<br />

machinery visitors come<br />

face to face with life-size ships and<br />

planes, some planes dating as far<br />

back as 1918. From there you go on<br />

to the rail sheds, with some of the<br />

fi rst trains on show.<br />

The next building leads you through<br />

to photo technology, the science<br />

centre and the Vintage Car Depot.<br />

This is a massive insight into how<br />

benefi cial the industrial revolution<br />

was to Germany and there are plenty<br />

of hands-on activities to take part<br />

in. Why not climb aboard the ships<br />

or step under giant locomotives,<br />

watch an old fashioned picture fi lm<br />

or discover the art of brewing? And<br />

to fi nish the tour off visitors can<br />

walk outside into the Museum Park<br />

where there are windmills and the<br />

water tower.<br />

There’s something for everyone and,<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong> museum style, there are<br />

many visitor activities and guided<br />

tours making the visit that much<br />

more impressive and extraordinary.<br />

Schwules Museum<br />

w w w. s c h w u l e s m u s e u m . d e .<br />

Mehringdamm 61. U-Bahn:<br />

Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172.<br />

Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs.<br />

Admission €5, concessions €3.<br />

The only museum in the world<br />

dedicated to the homosexual<br />

lifestyle, this little museum plays<br />

a big part in chronicling nearly<br />

two centuries of Gay history and<br />

social change. The museum houses<br />

a remarkable collection of photos,<br />

paintings and other assorted art<br />

work about Gay life in Germany.<br />

Tracing the gradual acceptance<br />

of the homosexual existence with<br />

its many trials and tribulations in<br />

Europe, there is a big focus on <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

during the World Wars. The ground<br />

fl oor allows for temporary exhibits,<br />

presenting the work of famous Gay<br />

Germans such as Herbert List and<br />

other local Gay artists.<br />

Comprehensive and informative<br />

guides are available in many<br />

languages to assist in your visit and<br />

the volunteer staff are both helpful<br />

and friendly.<br />

109 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 110


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Exploring an Urban<br />

Sculpture Garden<br />

U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor.<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>, famously described as ‘poor<br />

but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public<br />

art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’<br />

sculpture to the provocative work of<br />

street artists such as<br />

Alias and El Bocho,<br />

art is impossible to<br />

avoid in this city.<br />

Visitors are sure to<br />

encounter plenty of<br />

impressive work even<br />

if they never set foot<br />

in a museum.<br />

One of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s most<br />

compelling examples<br />

of public art is the<br />

Menschenlandschaft,<br />

a diverse collection<br />

of sculpture that<br />

sprawls from a<br />

leafy pocket park<br />

near Schlesisches<br />

Tor station toward the River Spree.<br />

Don’t expect to fi nd much respite<br />

here from the grit and gristle of<br />

Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden<br />

is unabashedly urban. In fact, to<br />

walk the length of this ‘human<br />

landscape,’ which features work by<br />

seven different sculptors, visitors<br />

must cross two busy streets and pass<br />

under the U-Bahn tracks.<br />

The experience of visiting the<br />

Menschenlandschaft is punctuated<br />

by urban noise – trains thundering<br />

above and traffi c roaring nearby.<br />

But instead of being an unwelcome<br />

distraction, this setting actually<br />

enhances the meaning<br />

of the work. The<br />

sculpture garden<br />

was commissioned<br />

to address the<br />

immigrant experience<br />

in Kreuzberg, a<br />

neighbourhood which<br />

has absorbed an<br />

enormous immigrant<br />

population, while<br />

more recently<br />

struggling with the<br />

growing pains of<br />

gentrifi cation. The<br />

placement of these<br />

art pieces, in the<br />

‘leftover’ space<br />

surrounding a major transit hub,<br />

encourages the viewer to consider<br />

the extent to which immigrants are<br />

integrated into – or isolated from –<br />

the social and economic fabric of the<br />

city.<br />

Walking east along Schlesisches<br />

Strasse, look for two voluptuous<br />

bronze nudes reclining in<br />

the traffi c median. Follow<br />

the concrete footpath<br />

across the street toward<br />

the garden’s centrepiece,<br />

Turkish sculptor Mehmet<br />

Aksoy’s 1987 work<br />

A r b e i t s m i g r a t i o n .<br />

Emerging from the grass<br />

like alabaster totems,<br />

Aksoy’s sculpture conveys<br />

stylized and sometimes<br />

disturbing human forms:<br />

dislocated body parts,<br />

isolated fi gures, and<br />

huddled masses striving to<br />

‘escape’ from the marble.<br />

Continuing across the<br />

street toward the river,<br />

look for several more<br />

works of sculpture<br />

scattered throughout<br />

the park. Perhaps the<br />

most distinctive is Rudolf<br />

Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a<br />

stainless steel structure<br />

which resembles an<br />

enormous bent paper clip.<br />

At the end of this sculpture<br />

safari on the south bank of<br />

the Spree, sightseers are<br />

rewarded with a perfect<br />

view of the magnifi cent<br />

Oberbaumbrücke.<br />

111 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 112


Shopping Shopping<br />

NGBK<br />

www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25.<br />

U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel:<br />

+49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm,<br />

Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm.<br />

Wander the streets of Kreuzberg<br />

and you are likely to stumble across<br />

many individual art exhibits and<br />

bookstores; visit NGBK and you will<br />

experience a unique combination<br />

of both. The NGBK bookstore is<br />

well-stocked in a number of genres,<br />

particularly the Arts, with many<br />

titles available in English. <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

receives special attention with a<br />

vast selection of books covering all<br />

aspects of the city.<br />

The relaxed and open atmosphere<br />

encourages those browsing to pick<br />

a stool and read at leisure. To the<br />

rear of the store, free entry to the<br />

adjacent NGBK exhibition space<br />

awaits. Here, through the medium<br />

of visual art, questions and issues of<br />

social importance are depicted and<br />

explored. Exhibits change throughout<br />

the year and are often supplemented<br />

by discussions, lectures and other<br />

events.<br />

Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010<br />

include: Shared. Divided. United,<br />

which aims to draw comparison<br />

between the divisive experiences of<br />

Germany and Korea; and Amerikana,<br />

documenting the mythology of US<br />

society and the response of US artists<br />

to such myths.<br />

The NGBK bookstore alone warrants<br />

a visit, but time things correctly<br />

and you may be fortunate enough to<br />

inject some art into your shopping<br />

trip.<br />

Box Off <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

w w w. b o x o f f b e r l i n . d e .<br />

Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn:<br />

Kochstraβe. Tel: +49 (0) 30 44<br />

70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am.<br />

Sidle away from the tacky<br />

tourist shops surrounding<br />

Checkpoint Charlie and<br />

discover a refreshingly<br />

different approach to souvenir<br />

shopping. Box Off <strong>Berlin</strong> offers<br />

a variety of quality souvenirs<br />

created by local designers.<br />

Think more cutting-edge<br />

design, less souvenir shot glass.<br />

Treat yourself to a fashionable<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> print, a unique tote or<br />

a glossy hardback on <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

street art.<br />

Fair trade and<br />

environmentalism are key<br />

concepts, so enjoy a fair trade<br />

coffee from the coffee bar as<br />

you browse the store and its<br />

compact contemporary art<br />

gallery.<br />

Prices and products are wide<br />

ranging and generally refl ect<br />

the high quality and design of<br />

each item. For those on a tight<br />

budget, key rings and pens are<br />

reasonably priced at under €5.<br />

Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff<br />

113 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 114


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Modern Graphics<br />

w w w. m o d e r n - g r a p h i c s . d e .<br />

Oranienstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer<br />

Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49<br />

6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat<br />

10am-7pm.<br />

This shop is a haven for any fan of<br />

graphic novels, comics or other cult<br />

merchandise. It contains a huge<br />

selection of each with a more than<br />

reasonably-sized section dedicated<br />

to novels in the English language.<br />

The staff are helpful, knowledgeable<br />

and, most importantly, incredibly<br />

enthusiastic about the material they<br />

sell.<br />

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap<br />

Mehringdamm 32.<br />

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm.<br />

Having a several-metre long queue<br />

may be normal for a kebab shop at<br />

four in the morning on a week night,<br />

in an area located next to a street<br />

full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but<br />

when there’s a queue that big the<br />

whole day long...one wonders what<br />

must be so special about the food<br />

that’s being served.<br />

Staying in the constantly long line at<br />

Mustafa’s is certainly worth the wait<br />

as it serves very<br />

possibly the best<br />

kebabs in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

The choice at<br />

Mustafa’s is very<br />

simple: a kebab;<br />

dürüm kebab<br />

(in a wrap); a<br />

vegetarian or<br />

a vegetarian<br />

dürüm. All of the<br />

choices include<br />

deep-fried vegetables, an amazing<br />

selection of salad and best of all<br />

crumbled cheese to top it off. The<br />

meat kebabs include sliced chicken<br />

döner from the large rotating spit.<br />

What is perhaps so surprising about<br />

Mustafa’s is that it’s little more<br />

than a fi xed hut on the pavement,<br />

which can hardly fi t the two men<br />

who serve up the food all day long.<br />

There is no seating and only a large<br />

wooden table to the side where you<br />

can stand and eat. This minimalism<br />

is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm.<br />

To top off the effect, Middle Eastern<br />

music blares from the hut all day, so<br />

you really feel like you’re getting a<br />

full Eastern experience.<br />

Hakata sushi restaurant<br />

Oranienstrasse. U-Bahn: Görlitzer<br />

bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor. Closed<br />

Mondays. Price: €0-5.<br />

This sushi restaurant truly is a must<br />

for any fan of Japanese cuisine.<br />

It may not visually stand out in<br />

comparison with the various other<br />

more colourful sushi restaurants in<br />

the neighbourhood (and there are<br />

several), but what it lacks in visual<br />

splendour it more than makes up<br />

for in superb taste. Herein lies this<br />

establishment’s crowning glory.<br />

The orders are taken on notes<br />

you write yourself and are served<br />

without dialogue. Indeed, you may<br />

fi nd that Japanese can prove to<br />

be more effective than German if<br />

you are blessed with such language<br />

skills. The food orders will also take<br />

a longtime to fi nally emerge at your<br />

table, which can be almost torturous<br />

as you watch it being meticulously<br />

made only a few feet away. Fear<br />

not, however, for this is small price<br />

to pay – along with the pleasingly<br />

small bill - for truly authentic and<br />

delicious sushi in Kreuzberg.<br />

There is a wide range of dishes on<br />

offer along with a satisfying number<br />

of vegetarian options included in the<br />

fray.<br />

Belegschaft<br />

w w w . d i e b e l e g s c h a f t . d e .<br />

Zimmerstraβe 23. U-Bahn:<br />

Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254<br />

Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am-<br />

7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3-<br />

8.<br />

Amongst the hustle and bustle<br />

surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies<br />

a calm oasis in Belegschaft.<br />

This “organic quick food” café<br />

features a range of soups,<br />

sandwiches and daily specials at<br />

reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal<br />

in the café’s fresh, modern interior<br />

or while people watching outside.<br />

Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.<br />

115 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 116


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Curry 36<br />

www.curry36.de Mehringdamm 36.<br />

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 302<br />

51 73 68. Mon-<br />

Sun 9am-5am.<br />

€0-5.<br />

A big fat German<br />

sausage with<br />

curry sprinkled<br />

all over, and<br />

ketchup on<br />

top. One bite<br />

and your mouth<br />

will sizzle with<br />

the contrasting<br />

f l a v o u r s .<br />

Another bite and<br />

you’re hooked<br />

on Currywurst.<br />

The lines move<br />

fast as sausages,<br />

fries and drinks<br />

are dished out<br />

with German<br />

effi ciency.<br />

A delicacy that other places<br />

have tried to re-invent, Curry<br />

36 is a family-owned business<br />

that began as a food cart<br />

and expanded over 30 years<br />

into a popular place to go for<br />

Currywurst. The food is fresh,<br />

the ketchup is homemade, and<br />

if you can’t get enough of a fi x you<br />

can even buy the sausages to take<br />

home vacuum-packed.<br />

You don’t have to ask the customers<br />

twice if they enjoy it,<br />

standing shoulder to<br />

shoulder around tables<br />

some wolf their sausages<br />

down, while others<br />

seems to let the taste<br />

linger before forking<br />

the next piece. Two<br />

Currywurst with fries<br />

will set you back €4.30<br />

or 2 Currywurst with a<br />

bread roll costs €3.20.<br />

A boulette (a German<br />

specialty of herbed<br />

mince meat, but nicer<br />

than a hamburger) with<br />

curry costs €1.50.<br />

Rundum Mehrzweckcafe<br />

www.cafe-rundum.de. Stresemanstr<br />

37.U-Bahn: Mockernbruke or<br />

Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter<br />

Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30<br />

53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat-<br />

Sun 10am-8pm.<br />

Hidden amongst towering concrete<br />

desolate buildings on this<br />

quiet street in Kreuzberg,<br />

Rundum Mehrzweckercafe<br />

is a contemporary,<br />

minimalistic yet charming<br />

café serving generously<br />

sized meals that<br />

burst with fl avour and<br />

freshness.<br />

Highly recommended<br />

are the daily specials,<br />

which are generously<br />

portioned for the price,<br />

with freshly made pasta<br />

with parmesan, walnuts and basil<br />

pesto (fantastic for vegetarians),<br />

succulent pork and mixed greens or<br />

a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup<br />

as just a few tasty examples.<br />

There is also a good selection of<br />

baguette fi llings and with prices<br />

starting from €3.90 you will be<br />

spoilt for choice. The homemade<br />

desserts are worth a try, especially<br />

the blueberry muffi n, which will<br />

guarantee you<br />

another trip<br />

back for more!<br />

On a nice summer<br />

day you can bask<br />

in the sun in the<br />

outdoor area<br />

or alternatively<br />

enjoy your meal<br />

Mountains of pasta at Rundum.<br />

indoors whilst observing strange<br />

abstract canvases of nature and<br />

subtle nudity. Service is friendly and<br />

the staff helpful, so whether you<br />

want to enquire about a dish or to<br />

get directions to the nearest station<br />

they are more than happy to help!<br />

As Rundum say themselves this really<br />

is the place to “eat, drink, chat,<br />

relax and enjoy.”<br />

117 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 118


Food & Drink Nightlife<br />

Max und Moritz<br />

www.maxundmoritzberlin.de.<br />

Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069<br />

515 911. Open daily from 6pm.<br />

Price: €10-15.<br />

A welcome break from the<br />

predominantly Turkish food found in<br />

this part of the city, Max und Moritz<br />

provides traditional German cuisine.<br />

It is famous for cooking up <strong>Berlin</strong>er<br />

dishes in an authentic and relaxing<br />

setting.<br />

There is an impressive range of<br />

these satisfying and hearty dishes.<br />

From the traditional, time-honoured<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>er Eisbein, a pickled pig foot<br />

with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to<br />

Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced<br />

beef stew served<br />

with salad<br />

and dumpling<br />

noodles. The<br />

menu certainly<br />

leans more<br />

towards the<br />

carnivorous in<br />

nature however<br />

there are also a<br />

few vegetarian<br />

dishes on offer.<br />

Whatever your<br />

taste, you will<br />

fi nd something<br />

to your liking here. Its generous<br />

portions, welcoming atmosphere<br />

and wonderful food make this <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

institution a must. The prices may<br />

be a little high for the more budgetconscious<br />

traveller with the more<br />

expensive dishes running up to €14.<br />

However there are less expensive<br />

meals of offer from around €8.50<br />

and the setting and atmosphere is<br />

worth the little extra.<br />

The restaurant can get quite busy at<br />

times, a testament to the quality of<br />

the food, so phone ahead to reserve<br />

a table or go earlier in the evening<br />

to avoid disappointment or a lengthy<br />

wait.<br />

Badeschiff<br />

www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn:<br />

Treptower Park. Bus 265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open from 8am. Admission<br />

€3. Drinks: €3-10.<br />

Badeschiff is <strong>Berlin</strong>’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in the<br />

sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days.<br />

Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river<br />

venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the<br />

river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim<br />

and horse-around in a fl oating pool docked on the river.<br />

Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment<br />

takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of<br />

various description for when the beers have given you some tipsy munchies.<br />

Badeschiff is a must for any summer <strong>Berlin</strong> trip. Even if you’re just around for a<br />

long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and<br />

before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when <strong>Berlin</strong>ers<br />

take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however,<br />

spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fi ll up fast so either get there<br />

early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment.<br />

119 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 120


Nightlife Nightlife<br />

Kiki Blofeld<br />

www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker<br />

Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine.<br />

S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737<br />

828 286.<br />

Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of<br />

Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian catstroking<br />

evil villain and arch-nemesis<br />

of James Bond,<br />

is the patron of<br />

the garden club<br />

named in her<br />

honour. So the<br />

story goes of this<br />

bank-side bar and<br />

nightclub located<br />

on the Spree<br />

River.<br />

Covered in sand<br />

and with plenty<br />

of places to hang<br />

out, this Kikis<br />

really is big, with<br />

enough space to<br />

fi t a lot of minibeach<br />

parties. Scattered across the<br />

outside area are pool- and ping-pong<br />

tables as well as an area for making<br />

bonfi res. Next to the upstairs bar is<br />

a raised lounging area complete with<br />

beach chairs.<br />

The best part about this place is<br />

the downstairs dance fl oor, the<br />

“boathouse” as it is known, which<br />

consists of a platform raised above<br />

the river on stilts. The story of this<br />

underground den is quite fascinating<br />

- it was where the East German police<br />

docked their boats when travelling<br />

across the river to the West. The<br />

platform is a U-shape and the boats<br />

would drive into the middle to dock.<br />

Instead of GDR<br />

police boats, these<br />

days a fl oating<br />

infl atable octopus<br />

decorates the<br />

water.<br />

Downstairs has a<br />

fully stocked bar<br />

as well, serving<br />

beers for around<br />

€3. The music is<br />

techno/house, and<br />

in true <strong>Berlin</strong> style<br />

the club stays open<br />

into the next day<br />

on weekends.<br />

The clientele of<br />

Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists<br />

know of it and it isn’t included<br />

in many guide books. The vibe is<br />

certainly that of the well-kept secret<br />

- a hidden paradise complete with an<br />

underground lair with sinister past -<br />

Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly<br />

approve.<br />

SchwuZ<br />

www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61.<br />

U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49<br />

30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7<br />

entry, €5 before midnight.<br />

Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and<br />

dance the night away at SchwuZ.<br />

This club is a one-stop nightlife<br />

hotspot which<br />

welcomes all,<br />

located within<br />

the Schwulen<br />

Zentrum (Gay<br />

Centre) in<br />

Kreuzberg. Enter<br />

via Café Melitta<br />

Sundstrom, the<br />

destination to<br />

chill out with<br />

pre-drinks and<br />

chat in-between<br />

throwing shapes<br />

on the dance<br />

fl oor.<br />

With three DJ rooms this venue<br />

provides clubbers with choice and<br />

change without having to venture<br />

beyond its very own walls. The<br />

variety extends to an eclectic range<br />

of themed dance parties hosted<br />

throughout the month, ranging<br />

from punk to pop, and embracing<br />

everything in-between.<br />

Parties rotate so that they become<br />

monthly events for the clubbing<br />

calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a<br />

night for the ladies; Madonnamania,<br />

where the name says it all; and listen<br />

to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe<br />

at Bump! Check their website for<br />

more events set to make your body<br />

rock.<br />

A good<br />

night out is<br />

P o p k i c k e r,<br />

where a mix<br />

of pop and<br />

sport – fussball<br />

and pingpong<br />

especially –<br />

are thrown<br />

in for good<br />

measure. The<br />

crowd spices<br />

up their<br />

trendy dress<br />

code with a<br />

sports theme<br />

including football shirts and vest<br />

tops. The music in the main DJ room<br />

has a familiar feel with the beats of<br />

commercial and global pop vibrating<br />

their rhythms through your body and<br />

soul.<br />

Make a calendar date and mix it up at<br />

SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed.<br />

Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.<br />

121 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 122


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

BaxPax Kreuzberg<br />

w w w. b a x p a x - k r e u z b e r g . d e .<br />

Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn:<br />

Gölitzer Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3 069 518<br />

322.<br />

Prices:<br />

Dorm Rooms: €12.<br />

Double Room with ensuite: €25<br />

If you like places with character<br />

then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax<br />

Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere<br />

with a bar/cafe area close to<br />

reception along with lots of tourist<br />

information and advice including<br />

previous guests views, suggestions<br />

and advice on the ‘word of mouth’<br />

board.<br />

The whole hostel is very colourful<br />

and all the dorms are large, fullyfurnished<br />

and are decorated with<br />

Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg.<br />

a different culture theme giving<br />

that added sense of a lively fun<br />

atmosphere. There are two huge<br />

common areas, shared/private<br />

bathrooms and kitchen facilities<br />

with a sun terrace.<br />

The hostel is located on the main<br />

street Skalitzer Strasse, where there<br />

are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and<br />

restaurants to suit all tastes. It is<br />

also close to Warschauer Strasse,<br />

Oranienburger Strasse and many<br />

monuments such as the Jüdisches<br />

Museum and Checkpoint Charlie.<br />

· Lockers and safe available<br />

· Internet access<br />

· Breakfast buffet for €5.20<br />

· Bike hire<br />

3 Little Pigs Hostel<br />

w w w. t h r e e - l i t t l e - p i g s . d e .<br />

Stresemannstrasse 66. S-Bahn:<br />

Anhalter Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3032 662<br />

955. 24-hour reception.<br />

Dorms: (low/high season prices)<br />

8 bed: €13/15<br />

6 bed: €14/16<br />

Private double room: €31/32<br />

Everyone knows the story of the<br />

Three Little Pigs – how the brick<br />

house protected them from the big<br />

bad wolf. This hostel, also made<br />

of brick, acts as a sanctuary for<br />

travellers everywhere.<br />

The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic<br />

art deco building, built in 1910, with<br />

lots of old-fashioned features set<br />

in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s most popular social districts.<br />

The hostel is clean, bright, colourful<br />

and tidy throughout and is in great<br />

condition for the age of the building.<br />

There are many communal areas<br />

throughout as well as the bar and<br />

beer garden. There is a relaxing,<br />

quiet atmosphere and yet it is<br />

close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist<br />

attractions and nightlife.<br />

This hostel has all the essentials<br />

for students and backpackers, from<br />

free guided city tours to the pool<br />

table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer.<br />

The location is walking distance<br />

to some of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s major tourist<br />

sights, such as Brandenburger Tor<br />

and Checkpoint Charlie, as well<br />

as cafes, bars, restaurants and the<br />

local supermarket.<br />

The friendly staff are enthusiastic<br />

to help out with any questions or<br />

queries you have on what to do (and<br />

not to do) in <strong>Berlin</strong> plus heaps of<br />

tourist leafl ets, maps, and popular<br />

places on hand at reception.<br />

· Bed linen: €2.50 obligatory<br />

· Internet access<br />

· Kitchen<br />

· Parking<br />

· Bike rental, €12 per day<br />

· Breakfast, €5 all you can eat<br />

Meininger Hostel <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Hallesches Ufer<br />

w w w. m e i n i n g e r- h o s t e l s . c o m .<br />

Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn:<br />

123 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 124


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke.<br />

Tel: +49 3 066 636 100.<br />

Prices:<br />

Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€<br />

Multi-bed room (triple,<br />

twin, single) from 26€<br />

to 60€.<br />

This newly refurbished<br />

hostel is perfect for<br />

students who love<br />

to party! Meininger<br />

Hostels have two<br />

hostels in <strong>Berlin</strong> plus<br />

more around Germany<br />

and London. One good<br />

thing about chain<br />

hostels is they tend<br />

to meet a certain<br />

living standard and<br />

this particular hostel<br />

certainly meets that.<br />

The hostel has recently been<br />

refurbished complete with clothes<br />

storage space, TV, bathroom, linen<br />

and towels. There are more than 300<br />

beds and all rooms are cleaned daily.<br />

Female only rooms are available for<br />

the same charge as a standard room.<br />

Located on the ground fl oor is the<br />

newly refurbished bar complete with<br />

pool table, comfy couches, TV and<br />

daily discount bar offers. Although<br />

downstairs is the party area it is<br />

separated from upstairs, which has<br />

a more chilled atmosphere. Located<br />

on the top fl oor is a large breakfast<br />

room and outside balcony terrace<br />

area where you can see a fantastic<br />

view of the Kreuzberg area.<br />

The hostel is close to cafes and<br />

restaurants and for those on a budget<br />

€4 Pizza, located round the corner of<br />

the hostel, is highly recommended.<br />

What’s more the hostel offers free<br />

walking tours and is close to the Sony<br />

Centre, Deutches Technik Museum<br />

and Topography of Terrors.<br />

• Laundry €5<br />

• Luggage Storage<br />

• Internet and free WIFI<br />

• Breakfast Buffet €4<br />

Riverside Lodge<br />

w w w . r i v e r s i d e - l o d g e . d e .<br />

Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn:<br />

Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515<br />

510.<br />

Prices:<br />

Dorm rooms €21.<br />

Double rooms €26.<br />

This little charming hostel is perfect<br />

for those who want a place to chill<br />

from the busy atmosphere. Travellers<br />

are close to the action and can get<br />

a good night’s sleep. The hostel,<br />

although small, is modern, bright and<br />

tidy with plenty of space, even with<br />

the giant economy-sized lockers and<br />

the funky canoe in the large dorm.<br />

This hostel consists of one four-bed<br />

dorm, one six-bed dorm and one<br />

double room in the hostel plus three<br />

double rooms next door, which are<br />

apartment style fl ats.<br />

The hostel has all the basics with a<br />

kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near<br />

to cafes, restaurants, shops and the<br />

huge Turkish market on Maybachufer<br />

Straβe every Tuesday and Friday.<br />

The markets are defi nitely worth a<br />

visit and there are so many different<br />

stalls from traditional Turkish meals<br />

and sweets to clothes and jewellery.<br />

Located in one of the Turkish<br />

communities in <strong>Berlin</strong>, this hostel is<br />

in a perfect place for those wanting<br />

to stay elsewhere from the city<br />

centre and enjoy the cultural <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

Turkish atmosphere.<br />

· Internet €2 for the day<br />

· Breakfast for € 4.00.<br />

· Complimentary tea and coffee<br />

are available at all times.<br />

125 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 126


Charlottenburg Information<br />

During the glory days of the GDR,<br />

Charlottenburg was a pocket of West<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> where culture fl ourished.<br />

Surrounded by the <strong>Berlin</strong> Wall, the<br />

area was a protected sanctuary<br />

with exceptional nightlife, cafés,<br />

cinemas and a strong community of<br />

artists, actors, and writers.<br />

After the fall of the wall, these<br />

creative communities moved East<br />

to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and<br />

Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg<br />

lost its edge. Now this area<br />

maintains its former glamour with<br />

Kufürstendamm, locally known as<br />

Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of<br />

the East, lined with ritzy department<br />

stores and boutiques for the wealthy<br />

to splash out whilst on holiday in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>. Charlottenburg is ideal for<br />

those looking for a bit of quiet in the<br />

constant hustle and bustle of a city<br />

that never seems to sleep.<br />

Charlottenburg’s main attraction is<br />

Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque<br />

palace located 3km north of Zoo<br />

Station. The palace was modelled<br />

after Versailles and its former<br />

residents include King Friedrich I,<br />

and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens<br />

are perfect for wandering on a sunny<br />

day.<br />

Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche<br />

is another worthwhile site to check<br />

out in Charlottenburg. Heavily<br />

bombed during World War II, the<br />

church was left as it was and is now<br />

an antiwar memorial and a constant<br />

reminder of the destruction of the<br />

war. The church was constructed in<br />

1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now<br />

tourists can visit the church and view<br />

a collection of photographs and an<br />

explanation of the church’s history.<br />

Many museums are also located in<br />

Charlottenburg, such as the Museum<br />

für Fotografi e that chronicles the life<br />

and work of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s internationally<br />

acclaimed photographer, Helmut<br />

Newton, and the Erotik Museum,<br />

for those looking for something a<br />

little different when it comes to<br />

museums.<br />

127 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg<br />

128


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Schloss Charlottenburg<br />

Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn:<br />

Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn:<br />

Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner-<br />

Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun<br />

10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14.<br />

Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has<br />

something for everyone. There is<br />

a healthy dose of history for those<br />

primarily interested in the whys and<br />

wherefores of this beautiful building,<br />

for art and architecture buffs there<br />

is a huge amount to see in this<br />

Baroque masterpiece, while there is<br />

lots of human interest if you just like<br />

a good story.<br />

Schloss Charlottenburg, originally<br />

called Lietzenburg, was fi rst<br />

c o m m i s s i o n e d<br />

in 1699 by the<br />

Electress of<br />

B r a n d e n b u r g<br />

Sophie Charlotte.<br />

After her death,<br />

the building was<br />

completed and<br />

extended under<br />

the orders of her<br />

husband, then<br />

King of Prussia,<br />

Friedrich I, and<br />

re-named in<br />

her honour. This<br />

relatively small<br />

palace in a minor town outside <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

became the summer residence and<br />

stately home of choice of many of the<br />

later Hohenzollerns, and still bears<br />

the marks of many of their lives and<br />

personalities.<br />

This historic site is of great importance<br />

for those interested in the growth<br />

of one of Europe’s greatest royal<br />

houses. There is special emphasis<br />

here on the women in this dynasty,<br />

particularly Sophie Charlotte herself<br />

and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King<br />

Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom<br />

spent much time and energy on this<br />

building.<br />

For the modern visitor, there is much<br />

to see. The site itself is in fact three<br />

separate exhibitions, each priced<br />

separately (though a Day Ticket can<br />

be bought which incorporates all<br />

three).<br />

The central exhibition here is the<br />

Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s<br />

original building and Friedrich’s<br />

extension. Downstairs, the rooms<br />

are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s<br />

day while the upper fl oor is kept<br />

(as much as possible) to how Queen<br />

Elizabeth would have known it.<br />

Many of the upstairs rooms were<br />

damaged by bombing meaning that<br />

reconstruction in their original form<br />

was largely impossible. These rooms<br />

now contain paintings and furniture<br />

giving a representation of the<br />

thoughts and morals of the time.<br />

The personalities of the two Queens<br />

are presented through these rooms in<br />

a very lively way, helped by the use<br />

of an audioguide, which is included in<br />

the entrance price. A must-see is the<br />

New Wing, which houses the State<br />

Apartments of Kings Friedrich the<br />

Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t<br />

forget to enjoy the nature - take a<br />

stroll around the beautiful gardens<br />

and lakes, or even take a picnic.<br />

129 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 130


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Museum für Fotografi e<br />

(Museum of Photography)<br />

www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn:<br />

Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266<br />

3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur<br />

10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free:<br />

Thursdays after 6pm.<br />

One of history’s most daring and<br />

notorious photographers, <strong>Berlin</strong>born<br />

Helmut Newton had a distinct<br />

risqué style; capturing the dramatic<br />

and often dangerous side of beauty.<br />

Over 1,000 works from Newton<br />

are permanently on display at<br />

the Museum of Photography. The<br />

collection of black and white photos,<br />

often focusing on nude women,<br />

explores the politically incorrect<br />

sexual nature of the human species<br />

which noticeably infl uenced society’s<br />

perspective on fashion, women and<br />

portraiture.<br />

Following Newton’s fatal car crash in<br />

October 2004, shortly after donating<br />

more than 1000 of his works to the<br />

museum, the public exhibition serves<br />

to be a mesh of both bereavement<br />

and celebration; for the art and man<br />

who was Helmut Newton.<br />

On the ground fl oor of the museum<br />

is a rare showcase called “Private<br />

Property” which delves into the<br />

life of the photographer himself. A<br />

replication of his Monte Carlo study,<br />

family photos, and a collection of<br />

letters between Newton and other<br />

prominent members of society,<br />

including Margaret Thatcher, pay<br />

homage to Newton’s work and life.<br />

The eerie collection is a perfect<br />

introduction to the Museum itself as<br />

the display reveals a prudent quality<br />

to Newton’s extensive catalogue of<br />

often misinterpreted pieces.<br />

Situated on the fi rst fl oor and probably<br />

the most highly regarded display<br />

is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”,<br />

which displays 394 black and white<br />

photographs. Originally the contents<br />

of a giant book, once limited to<br />

the coffee tables of a well-heeled<br />

few, the exhibit commemorates<br />

the 10th anniversary of the book’s<br />

publication. Amongst the collection<br />

are rare portraits of the likes of David<br />

Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner<br />

Fassbinder and Andy Warhol.<br />

Complimenting Newton’s works is an<br />

exhibition entitled “Three Boys from<br />

Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz<br />

and Just Loomis, three friends of<br />

Newton’s which he worked alongside<br />

and mentored, have 25 pieces of<br />

their collections on display. Selected<br />

by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s<br />

wife, the cinematic and raw style<br />

of the collections share similar<br />

undertones to a lot of Newton’s<br />

work.<br />

Together the collaborated display<br />

makes for an impressive journey<br />

into the eyes of one of the world’s<br />

most controversial and leading<br />

photographers. Although often<br />

quite confronting and uncensored,<br />

the photographs invite the viewer<br />

to push past the nude subjects and<br />

explore the world around the girl<br />

and the vision of Newton himself.<br />

The extensive collection tastefully<br />

captures the triumph of desire and<br />

the failure of reality rarely seen in<br />

such an audacious and mischievous<br />

manner, which is well worth a visit<br />

for those that search beyond a bare<br />

glance.<br />

Gedenkstätte Plötzensee<br />

www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.<br />

de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />

Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun<br />

9am-5pm. Price: Free.<br />

The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is<br />

a small memorial in the north of<br />

Charlottenburg, dedicated to the<br />

memory of those executed under the<br />

Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a<br />

prison, fi rst built in 1868 to house<br />

convicts with short-term sentences.<br />

It was also where some of the most<br />

famous opponents of Nazi Germany,<br />

including Klaus von Stauffenberg,<br />

were imprisoned and executed. For<br />

fans of the fi lm Valkyrie this site,<br />

which was not allowed to be used<br />

as a location due to the controversy<br />

surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion,<br />

may be of special interest.<br />

The memorial itself is embodied by a<br />

shrine. In the main room, which still<br />

contains the hooks in the wall from<br />

where prisoners were hanged, several<br />

wreaths and fl ags mark the place<br />

where many atrocities occurred. In<br />

addition to this chilling reminder of<br />

the reality of the prison’s history,<br />

there is a small but informative<br />

exhibition on the history of the prison<br />

and the lives of its more prominent<br />

victims. However for a site with<br />

131 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 132


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

such an important history, there is<br />

relatively little else to see.<br />

In a <strong>Berlin</strong> which is full of memorial<br />

after memorial to the victims of<br />

Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small<br />

exhibition may seem like one too<br />

many for the average visitor. The<br />

distance from the centre of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

may also be troublesome – the<br />

Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located<br />

at least a kilometre from the nearest<br />

station, though there is a bus that<br />

stops about a 5 minute walk away,<br />

and you need to walk through an<br />

industrial estate to get there.<br />

In many ways though, this remoteness<br />

adds to the atmosphere perhaps<br />

helping one to understand the<br />

isolation of the condemned prisoners.<br />

Although this memorial is small,<br />

it is very well laid out and gives a<br />

disquieting exposition of the terrible<br />

events that took place here.<br />

Story of <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

www.story-of-berlin.de.<br />

Kurfürstendamm 207-208. U-Bahn:<br />

Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720<br />

100. Price: €8-10.<br />

As the Story of <strong>Berlin</strong> goes, “The only<br />

tradition this city will accept is that<br />

it does not have a tradition”. This<br />

statement is no better proven than<br />

in this eclectic <strong>Berlin</strong> sensation.<br />

Situated on classy Kufürstendamm,<br />

inside a shopping centre, the Story of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> museum makes no pretence of<br />

being overly-scholarly or intellectual.<br />

Instead the museum is very accessible<br />

to all.<br />

Without assuming that the visitor has<br />

any prior knowledge, the exhibition<br />

leads through a quick-fi re tour of<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s history, from 1237-1930,<br />

establishing the scene for later, much<br />

more familiar, events.<br />

A lot of different media are used to<br />

create the feeling of moving through<br />

time; sound effects, videos and lifesize<br />

models in particular help the<br />

visitor to feel that they are actually<br />

there. Moving forward into the Nazi<br />

period (descending down an eerily lit<br />

narrow staircase), these effects only<br />

become more prominent.<br />

The sound of breaking glass is<br />

used to establish the presence of<br />

Kristallnacht and, almost before<br />

realising, the visitor walks over<br />

real book spines encased within the<br />

fl oor, symbolising the infamous Book<br />

Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles<br />

of rubble to evoke post-war <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

may seem a little heavy-handed<br />

and melodramatic to some, but the<br />

decorated living rooms of both East<br />

and West offer interesting points of<br />

comparison.<br />

Be warned that there is a lot to read<br />

and take in at once. In addition to<br />

this no-senses-bared journey through<br />

time, there is also the chance to tour<br />

one of West <strong>Berlin</strong>’s largest nuclear<br />

bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of<br />

over 3,200 people this bunker was<br />

never used for its intended purpose,<br />

but the site remains almost exactly<br />

as it was in the 1970s. Informed<br />

tour guides give a fascinating insight<br />

into how life in the bunker might<br />

have been like had the bomb ever<br />

dropped.<br />

The sheer variety of topics covered<br />

by this large museum would almost<br />

defy belief, if they were not all<br />

linked by their relationship to the<br />

city of <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

This only goes to show how much<br />

depth and diversity <strong>Berlin</strong> itself<br />

has. Seeing all of <strong>Berlin</strong>’s history<br />

together in this way indicates how<br />

much this city has led the world in so<br />

many areas, yet somehow it remains<br />

utterly unique.<br />

133 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 134


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Käthe Kollwitz Museum<br />

www.kaethe-kollwitz.de.<br />

Fasanenstaβe 24. U-Bahn:<br />

Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825<br />

210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price:<br />

€2.50-5.<br />

Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist<br />

working in the fi rst half of the 20th<br />

century. Unusually for<br />

a female artist, she<br />

was highly successful<br />

and infl uential in her<br />

own lifetime. She<br />

was also a dedicated<br />

socialist and, having<br />

lost both her son<br />

and her grandson in<br />

World War One and<br />

Two respectively, was<br />

defi antly anti-war.<br />

These convictions<br />

made her a target<br />

for the Nazis, who<br />

removed her from a<br />

prestigious position at<br />

the Academy of Art and banned all<br />

exhibitions of her work from 1937<br />

on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly<br />

before the end of the war.<br />

Pacifi st, socialist and maternal<br />

themes are a recurrent feature of<br />

her work, exemplifi ed by famous<br />

prints such as the Memorial to Karl<br />

Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924),<br />

and the Krieg series of woodcuts<br />

(1922/23).<br />

Her work is highly politicised and<br />

emotive. It is often bleak, executed<br />

almost entirely in monochrome,<br />

and displaying an empathy with<br />

the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz<br />

museum houses a<br />

collection of drawings,<br />

prints and sculptures<br />

over four fl oors, and you<br />

can see more sculptures<br />

in the garden. The<br />

museum also contains<br />

a collection of selfportraits<br />

from 1888 –<br />

1938.<br />

Kollwitz’ signifi cance<br />

can be seen all over<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>: the central<br />

square in Prenzlauer<br />

Berg, where the<br />

artist lived, is named<br />

Kollwitzplatz and<br />

contains a sculpture of her. An<br />

enlarged copy of one of her most<br />

famous works, the sculpture Mother<br />

with Dead Son, is the focal point of<br />

the war memorial Neue Wache on<br />

Unter den Linden. Her importance<br />

to the culture of the city is clear,<br />

making a trip to this small museum<br />

a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s<br />

135 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 136


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Olympiastadion<br />

Olympische Platz 3.<br />

U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn:<br />

Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688<br />

100. Closed during sporting events.<br />

Price: €3-4, Family: €8.<br />

Going to watch Hertha <strong>Berlin</strong> play<br />

at the Olympiastadion is more than<br />

just seeing a football match. The<br />

iconic stadium provides a great site<br />

for football, and entry through the<br />

Olympic rings gives a sense of how<br />

history and sport have come to mix.<br />

Once inside the home support is<br />

immediately recognisable, mainly<br />

dominating one area of the ground<br />

with customary continental fl ag<br />

waving and group jumping.<br />

The atmosphere is good especially<br />

when the home fans decide to get<br />

the drums and chants going. However<br />

this can be slightly lost, due to its<br />

large capacity, as the stadium only<br />

sells out when the big teams arrive<br />

in town.<br />

This though does have the advantage<br />

of tickets often being readily available<br />

History...<br />

The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in<br />

world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by<br />

Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk<br />

underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time<br />

but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided<br />

to give <strong>Berlin</strong> the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to<br />

build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one.<br />

The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals<br />

which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race<br />

policy. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime example of the neoclassical<br />

architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features<br />

such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war<br />

the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> played there and in 1974 it played host to some World Cup games.<br />

After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a stateof-the-art<br />

roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World<br />

Cup matches in 2006, including the fi nal; and the 2009 World Athletics<br />

Championships.<br />

with a decent price range to choose<br />

from, although it is probably best to<br />

aim for a mid-range ticket.<br />

The team itself is a founding<br />

member of the German FA and their<br />

performances have picked up in<br />

recent seasons but they still have<br />

not reached the illustrious heights of<br />

other German teams such as Bayern<br />

Munich.<br />

137 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 138


Food & Drink Food & Drink<br />

Aroma<br />

www.cafe-aroma.de. Kantstrasse 35.<br />

U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf Strasse. Tel:<br />

+49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm-<br />

3am. Price: €3-15.<br />

On the corner of Kantstrasse<br />

and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a<br />

Cantonese style restaurant, and one<br />

of the bigger and older establishments<br />

in <strong>Berlin</strong>’s modest Chinatown. Aroma<br />

is one of the few places in <strong>Berlin</strong> that<br />

serves authentic dim-sum.<br />

Though it can get quite busy around<br />

noon, and on weekends, it is a nice<br />

and relaxing place to have a late<br />

lunch. The German/Chinese speaking<br />

staff are quick to serve and though<br />

the menus are scarce of any English,<br />

the colourful pictures make it much<br />

easier to pick your meal.<br />

Lon-Men’s Noodle House<br />

Kantstrasse 33. U-Bahn Wilmersdorf<br />

Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 519 678. Mon-<br />

Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8.<br />

Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a familyrun<br />

Taiwanese eatery that serves<br />

some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle<br />

dishes. This small, simplistically<br />

decorated restaurant resembles<br />

one you would fi nd on the streets of<br />

Taiwan. Not to be confused by the<br />

name, you can order dishes aside<br />

from noodles.<br />

Although they offer a number of<br />

rice entrees, spring rolls, and other<br />

appetizers, the dish to try is the<br />

beef noodle soup. This comes with<br />

a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn<br />

noodles and carefully seasoned<br />

soup. It is topped with savoury slices<br />

of masterfully marinated beef,<br />

and sprinkled with tangy, pickled<br />

vegetables.<br />

The meals come in two sizes: €4<br />

for a small bowl (typical meal<br />

sized), or €8 for a large one (for the<br />

hearty traveller). This little piece of<br />

Taiwan in <strong>Berlin</strong> is defi nitely worth<br />

a visit, and though there are some<br />

differences from the meals served<br />

over 5000 miles away, they are a<br />

close second best.<br />

Der Kuchenladen<br />

w w w. d e r - k u c h e n l a d e n . d e .<br />

Kantstrasse 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf<br />

Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue-<br />

Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm.<br />

Price: €2-5.<br />

Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint<br />

cake shop called Der Kuchenladen<br />

(literally, the cakeshop). The brightly<br />

coloured wallpaper catches the<br />

eyes and draws you in, as do the<br />

chandeliers adorned with crystal<br />

ornaments. Upon walking in, you are<br />

immediately greeted by the aroma of<br />

baking chocolate.<br />

Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a<br />

storybook sweets shop. The room is<br />

lined with a myriad of freshly baked<br />

cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The<br />

small, but well-equipped tables look<br />

fi t for a tea party.<br />

Their selections of cakes are changed<br />

daily, and range from a simple piece<br />

of cheesecake to the more exotic<br />

Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable<br />

cake made with rice, pistachios,<br />

cherries, and topped with a light<br />

layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries<br />

are fairly priced, with the generous<br />

portions big enough for two.<br />

139 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 140


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

Pension Peters<br />

www.pension-peters-berlin.de.<br />

Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn:<br />

Savignyplatz. Tel: +49 303 122 278.<br />

Price:<br />

Singles: from €58<br />

Doubles: €79-85<br />

Triples: €95<br />

Quads: €105<br />

Located just aound the corner from<br />

Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is<br />

perfect for groups of travellers on a<br />

budget or couples with a little looser<br />

budget than the average traveller.<br />

Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles<br />

are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros,<br />

quads are 105 euros, and fi ve beds<br />

are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is<br />

included in the price.<br />

The pension was opened in the 1930s<br />

and has been run by the same family<br />

for the last fourteen years. It has<br />

brand new facilities and a simple<br />

and artistic design that fi ts perfectly<br />

with the pension’s sleek atmosphere.<br />

Although the pension is on a busy<br />

street, most rooms surround a<br />

courtyard set back from the main<br />

road, so there is not much of a<br />

problem with noise. The quad rooms<br />

are ideal for groups because if four<br />

people split the price, the cost ends<br />

up being comparable to a hostel, and<br />

groups do not have to share their<br />

bedroom or bathroom.<br />

The pension is walking distance<br />

to many cafés, restaurants and<br />

shops, so travellers will be spoilt<br />

for choice when trying to decide<br />

where to get a meal, or where to go<br />

shopping. The main shopping street,<br />

Kurfurstendamm, is a fi ve to ten<br />

minute walk away from the pension.<br />

* Free wi-fi<br />

* Breakfast buffet included<br />

* Includes shower, toilet, TV.<br />

141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 142


Schöneburg Information<br />

Schöneberg is now one of the more<br />

gentrifi ed areas of <strong>Berlin</strong>, but it has<br />

a surprisingly radical past. Around<br />

Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is<br />

the city’s oldest gay quarter, and<br />

Schöneberg is still home to the<br />

largest gay community in <strong>Berlin</strong>.<br />

Nollendorfplatz is the scene of<br />

much of the nightlife, and inside the<br />

U-Bahn station there is a memorial<br />

to homosexuals murdered by the<br />

Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of<br />

fascism in pre-war <strong>Berlin</strong> are vividly<br />

described in Christopher Isherwood’s<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong> Stories, which are based on<br />

his experiences living at Nollendorf<br />

Straβe 17.<br />

Other famous former residents of the<br />

borough include David Bowie and Iggy<br />

Pop, who rented a fl at at Hauptstraβe<br />

155 in the late seventies. Sixties<br />

chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did<br />

Marlene Dietrich who is now buried<br />

in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery.<br />

Fans of famous gravestones can also<br />

visit the fi nal resting place of the<br />

Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus-<br />

Kirchhof.<br />

The area’s best known sight is<br />

Rathaus Schöneberg where John F<br />

Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin<br />

ein <strong>Berlin</strong>er’ speech in 1963. The<br />

well-known story that the president<br />

actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’<br />

is false. In fact, <strong>Berlin</strong>ers had such<br />

high regard for him after the speech<br />

that, the day after his assassination,<br />

the square outside the Rathaus was<br />

renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For<br />

cafes and bars try the area around<br />

Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also<br />

a busy Saturday market.<br />

143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture<br />

Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus<br />

Schöneberg<br />

John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn:<br />

Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun<br />

9am – 4pm.<br />

This small but perfectly formed<br />

antiques haven is a cut above<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>’s numerous other fl ea<br />

markets. The goods on offer<br />

are of high quality and there is<br />

much to choose from.<br />

In front of the impressive<br />

Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls<br />

overfl ow with furniture, arts and<br />

crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl<br />

records, books and jewellery.<br />

Whilst others may come away<br />

from Moritzplatz with a pair<br />

of tie-dyed Harem pants, at<br />

Schöneberg visitors barter for<br />

Art Deco chandeliers, mink<br />

stoles, antique books and<br />

silverware.<br />

Prices start out high, given<br />

the nature of what’s on offer,<br />

but haggling is both the norm<br />

and expected. Books written<br />

in English are also widely<br />

available, which sell for around<br />

€3 each. There are bargains<br />

to be had if you are ready and<br />

willing to search.<br />

Botanical Gardens<br />

www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise-<br />

Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer<br />

Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am-<br />

9pm in summer. Price: €2-5.<br />

Being the second<br />

largest botanical<br />

garden in the<br />

world this beautiful<br />

reserve allows for<br />

endless wanderings<br />

and musings while<br />

offering a haven<br />

from <strong>Berlin</strong>’s nearby<br />

urban landscape.<br />

It boasts 126 acres<br />

of lawns, forests and<br />

lakes and is home<br />

to 22,000 species<br />

of fl ora nurtured<br />

in the many<br />

different gardens<br />

and habitats of the<br />

park.<br />

Amongst the tall trees and idyllic<br />

lakes there is an elegant Italian<br />

garden, a medicinal plant garden,<br />

and a section where you can handle<br />

unusually shaped and scented<br />

varieties of plant and fl ower – the<br />

fragrance and touch garden.<br />

The striking bio domes house tropical,<br />

sub-tropical and desert climatic<br />

zones. After you’ve walked through<br />

the extensive displays of cacti, visit<br />

the carnivorous plant section.<br />

The orchid exhibit and the tropical<br />

dome are a must.<br />

You may also be<br />

lucky to spot an<br />

u n s u s p e c t i n g<br />

gecko or one<br />

of the green<br />

woodpeckers that<br />

were introduced<br />

to create a more<br />

authentic and<br />

stable ecosystem.<br />

The park’s museum<br />

consolidates many<br />

aspects of the<br />

garden itself, and<br />

enables visitors to<br />

see the gardens<br />

as they are in<br />

different seasons.<br />

There are exhibits that explore the<br />

different scientifi c plant structures<br />

and others that focus more on the<br />

complex relationship between plants<br />

and culture.<br />

So whether a nature buff, a treehugging<br />

hippy or just in need of an<br />

escape this is something that should<br />

not be missed.<br />

145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146


Shopping<br />

KaDeWe<br />

www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe<br />

21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz.<br />

Tel: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am-<br />

8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am-<br />

8pm.<br />

For those in need of some highend<br />

retail therapy, this seven fl oor<br />

“department store of the West” holds<br />

claim to being the second largest in<br />

Europe.<br />

As expected from somewhere bearing<br />

such an accolade, the assortment of<br />

goods on sale is vast, ranging from<br />

evening and cocktail fashion to<br />

accessories for dogs.<br />

If the enormity of this <strong>Berlin</strong><br />

establishment seems overwhelming,<br />

then direct your energy towards the<br />

gastronomic glory of the sixth-fl oor<br />

food hall. The incredible array of fi ne<br />

foods and wines on offer cannot fail<br />

to impress.<br />

Treat yourself to some quality<br />

German confectionary or limited<br />

edition designer mineral water as you<br />

pass through. Alternatively, linger<br />

for longer and enjoy an informal<br />

meal from one of the many eateries<br />

nestled amongst the food and drink<br />

counters.<br />

The grandeur of the designerlined<br />

“Luxury Boulevard” is equally<br />

worth perusing. Whether or not you<br />

have the appropriate-sized wallet<br />

to tackle this <strong>Berlin</strong> institution,<br />

KaDeWe is certainly worth any<br />

ardent shopper’s time.<br />

Route 66<br />

http://route66diner.de. Pariser<br />

Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. Tel:<br />

+49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am-<br />

2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am.<br />

This 1950’s American diner-themed<br />

restaurant offers a broad menu of<br />

typical US and Mexican cuisine.<br />

The restaurant utterly<br />

indulges in kitsch, and<br />

is kitted out with an<br />

excess of neon lights,<br />

eating booths and mini<br />

duke boxes at each<br />

table.<br />

The steaks are juicy,<br />

the burgers wholesome<br />

and milkshakes are<br />

thick and creamy.<br />

There is substantial in and outdoor<br />

seating space and a selection of<br />

Food & Drink<br />

plasma televisions that screen sport<br />

regularly.<br />

Sunday brunch is offered from 10am-<br />

3pm where pancakes, muffi ns and<br />

eggs cooked to your preference may<br />

be guzzled. Substantial portions,<br />

with main courses starting from €5.<br />

147 Schöneberg Schöneberg 148<br />

Rani<br />

Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn:<br />

Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel:<br />

+49 30 215 267. Open daily from<br />

11am. Main dishes from €5, side<br />

dishes from €2.<br />

Slightly hidden away in the streets<br />

of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian<br />

restaurant. There is a large selection<br />

of incredibly fl avoursome traditional<br />

Indian meals available at very<br />

reasonable prices.<br />

The atmosphere is<br />

suitably casual as diners<br />

tuck into what inevitably<br />

becomes a monstrous<br />

feast as the aromas and<br />

fl avours lure you into<br />

trying many of the dishes<br />

on offer.<br />

A highlight on the menu<br />

is defi nitely the Tikka dishes that that<br />

come served to the table on a frying<br />

skillet, much to the allure of other<br />

guests in the restaurant.


Food & Drink<br />

Joseph Roth Diele<br />

www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer<br />

Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten<br />

Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon-<br />

Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials<br />

from €3.<br />

At fi rst glance this small but<br />

charming German restaurant along<br />

Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost<br />

resemble a 1920’s American diner.<br />

However, the only<br />

similarity here lies<br />

in its collection of<br />

old photographs and<br />

memorabilia that<br />

give testament to<br />

the establishment’s<br />

rooted history.<br />

Named after a<br />

Jewish writer whose<br />

material can be<br />

found throughout<br />

the dining room, it<br />

provides a limited<br />

but delicious<br />

selection of meals<br />

that vary throughout<br />

the week.<br />

During the daytime, the menu is<br />

limited to a daily special (one meat<br />

and one vegetarian), and in the<br />

evening there is a slightly more<br />

expansive range of meals on offer.<br />

Value for money is key here with<br />

average daytime meal prices starting<br />

from as low as €4. In spite of the<br />

low price, the food is delicious and<br />

hearty, if not totally inspiring, and<br />

is perfect to be enjoyed in such a<br />

humble establishment.<br />

The most appealing aspect of the<br />

restaurant however can be found<br />

its art-deco style. A wonderful<br />

contrast of abstract furnishings<br />

and old photos can be found within<br />

to suitably accompany your meal.<br />

There are a wide range of barrel and<br />

bottled beers on offer, in addition to<br />

a respectable selection of wines.<br />

Munch’s Hus Restaurant<br />

www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße<br />

66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49<br />

30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am.<br />

Prices range from €4-€17.<br />

As the only Norwegian restaurant in<br />

<strong>Berlin</strong>, this place is defi nitely worth<br />

a visit if you fancy a change from<br />

Currywurst.<br />

Situated in the Schöneberg district,<br />

Munch’s Hus boasts a range of<br />

traditional Norwegian delicacies<br />

including fresh fi sh dishes and<br />

Food & Drink<br />

delicious meatballs. For those<br />

seeking a light lunch, sandwiches<br />

and salads are also available.<br />

The restaurant’s interior adds a<br />

sophisticated touch, with large open<br />

windows, summery yellow walls and<br />

paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard<br />

Munch who lived in <strong>Berlin</strong> in the<br />

1890’s.<br />

The light atmosphere and the<br />

affordable yet high quality food make<br />

this restaurant a hit with everyone<br />

from businessmen to students.<br />

149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150


Accommodation Accommodation<br />

Jungen House Aletto<br />

www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse<br />

33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel:<br />

+49 3 021 003 680.<br />

Prices:<br />

Dorm rooms: €15.<br />

Single Rooms: €35.<br />

Double Rooms: €39.<br />

This modern style hostel at fi rst<br />

glance looks like a hotel with<br />

plenty of places to wind down after<br />

sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto<br />

has a relaxing sociable atmosphere<br />

where you can meet other travellers<br />

while drinking tea or coffee courtesy<br />

of the hostel.<br />

There’s a lot to do in and around<br />

this area as the hostel is a stone’s<br />

throw away from the U-Bahn and<br />

tram stops, which can take you to<br />

popular streets like Goltzstraβe and<br />

Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots<br />

such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche<br />

and the Zoo.<br />

Each room has all the essentials and<br />

are ensuite. The rooms are compact<br />

as they’ve certainly made use of<br />

their space but there is heaps of<br />

storage so you won’t be tripping<br />

over people’s luggage. All the rooms<br />

are modern, clean and each bed is<br />

provided with linen and towels.<br />

Although the hostel is on the main<br />

road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole<br />

hostel is quiet – something they pride<br />

themselves on. The only drawback<br />

is there’s no lift to this fi ve storey<br />

building.<br />

· 24-Hour Reception<br />

· All-you-can-eat breakfast<br />

· Linen provided<br />

Sunshine Hostel<br />

www.sunshinehouse-berlin.de.<br />

Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn:<br />

Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262<br />

079.<br />

Prices: rooms from €19.50<br />

This colourful hostel is a place for<br />

travellers of all ages. The hostel has<br />

a defi nite community feeling with<br />

friendly English-speaking staff who<br />

are very considerate to their guests<br />

needs. Although the hostel is close to<br />

the motorway it has a huge courtyard<br />

area with plenty of places to relax in<br />

the sun or have a BBQ lunch.<br />

The hostel has four separate blocks<br />

with four levels. Each level is similar<br />

to that of an apartment building with<br />

four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a<br />

small fully-equipped kitchen.<br />

All the rooms are furnished and<br />

there’s heaps of space for even the<br />

largest suitcases. There are keys to<br />

each room and each fl oor as well as<br />

the gates to the grounds so it is very<br />

safe.<br />

There is also a lounge/basement area<br />

with TV, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s<br />

very light, spacious and is kept clean<br />

and tidy, ready for use. Although<br />

there’s not 24-hour reception there<br />

is a code lock system to retrieve your<br />

key if you arrive late at night.<br />

The staff can also prepare breakfast<br />

for hungry travellers, which is lovely<br />

to eat outside in the courtyard or<br />

in the apartment if it’s cold. If you<br />

fancy eating out there are plenty<br />

of cafes and restaurants as well as<br />

shops round the corner from the<br />

hostel.<br />

· BYO towels<br />

· Breakfast €5 by request<br />

· Internet and WIF<br />

151 Schöneberg Schöneberg 152


Contributors Contributors<br />

153 154


Contributors Credits<br />

Zaineb Al Hassani<br />

Talya Friedman<br />

Natascha Vogel<br />

Ben Dillman<br />

Adam Willsmore<br />

Sebastian Cure<br />

Emily Vindler<br />

Pamela Mair<br />

Kaye Nicolson<br />

Daniel Smith<br />

Karolin Hosenfelder<br />

Michael McKay<br />

Sierra Bucher<br />

Sara Johnstone<br />

Jason Chen<br />

David Vanderhoff<br />

Nadine Truong<br />

Charlotte Nettleship<br />

Matt Wilson<br />

Amy Yu<br />

Jessica Davidson<br />

Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />

Elizabeth Janowski<br />

Lucy Bates<br />

Rebecca Dopson<br />

Kirsten Rumbles<br />

Helen McFadridge<br />

Piers Leonard<br />

Tom Foster<br />

Rosanne Visser<br />

Alison Holland<br />

Kieren Monaghan<br />

Jay Patani<br />

Alana Marmion-Warr<br />

Katie Clark<br />

Peter Bolton<br />

Michael Alhadeff<br />

Dorothy Melander-Dayton<br />

Zoe Milne<br />

Nicky Branagh<br />

Sheena Odwyer<br />

Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />

Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />

Zoe Milne<br />

Matt Wilson<br />

Graphic Design: Matt Wilson<br />

Art Direction: Matt Wilson<br />

Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />

Zoe Milne<br />

Sebastian Cure<br />

Rosanne Visser<br />

Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser<br />

Tom Foster<br />

Matt Wilson<br />

Nadine Truong<br />

Project City Travel Review by:<br />

www.citytravelreview.co.uk<br />

www.curso24.de<br />

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Credits Credits<br />

© All Contributors 2009<br />

This document or part thereof may<br />

not be reproduced without express<br />

permission from the authors.<br />

©:<br />

Zaineb Al Hassani<br />

Talya Friedman<br />

Natascha Vogel<br />

Ben Dillman<br />

Adam Willsmore<br />

Sebastian Cure<br />

Emily Vindler<br />

Pamela Mair<br />

Kaye Nicolson<br />

Daniel Smith<br />

Karolin Hosenfelder<br />

Michael McKay<br />

Sierra Bucher<br />

Sara Johnstone<br />

Jason Chen<br />

David Vanderhoff<br />

Nadine Truong<br />

Charlotte Nettleship<br />

Matt Wilson<br />

Amy Yu<br />

Jessica Davidson<br />

Mara Pattison-Sowden<br />

Elizabeth Janowski<br />

Lucy Bates<br />

Rebecca Dopson<br />

Kirsten Rumbles<br />

Helen McFadridge<br />

Piers Leonard<br />

Tom Foster<br />

Rosanne Visser<br />

Alison Holland<br />

Kieren Monaghan<br />

Jay Patani<br />

Alana Marmion-Warr<br />

Katie Clark<br />

Peter Bolton<br />

Michael Alhadeff<br />

Dorothy Melander-Dayton<br />

Zoe Milne<br />

Nicky Branagh<br />

Sheena Odwyer<br />

157 158

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