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Stewart Warner Performance Catalog - Auto Electric Service, Inc.

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Voltmeter vs. Ammeter Fuel Gauge Selection<br />

A voltmeter measures electrical potential (pressure) in units<br />

called volts that is necessary for current<br />

measured in amps (a quantity) to<br />

flow through your electrical system.<br />

If there is NO pressure<br />

(volts), there can be NO current<br />

flow (amps). This is analogous<br />

to having no oil pressure and,<br />

therefore, no oil flow. You must<br />

have one to get the other!<br />

Ammeters were popular when<br />

generators and alternators typically<br />

114200<br />

averaged 35-40 amps of output, and<br />

vehicle electrical systems were much less complex. Today,<br />

alternators commonly have output capacities of 100-110<br />

amps with more complex wiring and higher accessory<br />

loads. This makes it more difficult to install an ammeter.<br />

Just as we measure oil pressure rather than oil flow, we<br />

prefer to measure volts rather than amps, so, the overwhelming<br />

choice for performance applications today is the<br />

voltmeter. In fact, ammeters are not available as a <strong>Stewart</strong><br />

<strong>Warner</strong> <strong>Performance</strong> product, but they are available in our<br />

regular <strong>Stewart</strong> <strong>Warner</strong> line should you need one. Contact<br />

our tech support team if you have additional questions<br />

about ammeters or voltmeters.<br />

The bottom-line...an ammeter is NOT an effective solution<br />

for racing applications!<br />

www.SW-<strong>Performance</strong>.com<br />

WHICH FUEL-LEVEL GAUGE DO I USE FOR MY APPLICA-<br />

TION? <strong>Stewart</strong> <strong>Warner</strong> <strong>Performance</strong> can help you figure<br />

out which gauge to use. Fuel-level gauges, like electric<br />

gauges, are designed to work with specific fuel-level senders.<br />

Each sender is designed with a specific resistive input<br />

range so you must first measure the resistance of your existing<br />

sender.<br />

On the top of your sender,<br />

you’ll find a couple of wires.<br />

Since there are thousands of<br />

combinations for different<br />

vehicles, refer to your<br />

Owner’s Manual or Shop<br />

Manual to determine which<br />

wire is linked from the sender directly to the<br />

gauge. To measure the resistance, disconnect<br />

the plug at the sender and use a digital multimeter set for<br />

Ohms. Connect one lead of the multimeter to the sender<br />

wire and the other lead to the body of the sender (if the<br />

sender is grounded through the fuel tank), or to the ground<br />

wire of the sender (when the sender is not grounded<br />

through the fuel tank). Measure the resistance when the<br />

tank is full, and then again when the tank is empty. Once<br />

you know the resistance range of your sender, refer to the<br />

fuel gauge section of our catalog to find the proper gauge.<br />

Then you can “spec” out the right fuel gauge!<br />

OHMS/RESISTANCE POPULAR MODELS<br />

(EMPTY/FULL)<br />

0-90 Ohms Works on most GM cars, 1965 to<br />

present.<br />

73-10 Ohms Works on Fords prior to 1989 &<br />

most Chryslers.<br />

240-33.5 Ohms Industry standard, works on many<br />

popular cars.<br />

0-30 Ohms Works on most GM cars prior to<br />

1965.<br />

16-158 Ohms Works on most Fords, 1989 &<br />

newer.<br />

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