Colour Chronicle - April 2012 - Clariant

Colour Chronicle
A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication
for Textile, Leather and Paper
33 nd year of publication
Number 1 | 2012

colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Contents
Textile 3
Blue Magic
Foam Eco Care
Foron® S-WF
Nylosan®/ Lanasyn®
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
Paper 14
Cartabond®
Leather 17
Clariant predicts a summer palette to cheer the senses
Clariant at 27th India International Leather Fair
Gleanings from press 22
2 colour chronicle 2 | 2012

Wetting
pH-Collapsor
Stabilizer
Activator
Washing
Steering
Sequestering
textile
Blue Magic
All-in-one solution for discontinuous pretreatment with Imerol ® Blue liq
Minimum time for maximum results
Temperature (°C)
Temperature (°C)
120
100
80
60
40
20
120
100
80
60
40
20
Classical bleaching process
Wetting Agent/
detergent Stabilizer
NaOH+H2O2
0 20 4 0 60 8 0 100 1 20
Blue Magic process
Imerol ® Blue liq
NaOH+H 2O2
15 min at 110 °C
30 min at 95 °C
Drain
Drain
15 min
Bactosol ® SAP liq c
Sirrix ® NE liq
Singulat Bleaching Mechanism
Peroxide
H O 2 2
HO2 Alkali
NaOH
max
Acid neutralization
Dyeing
10’
50%
WATER
Imerol ® BLUE liq
Stabilizer
Singulet
Technology
Parasite
routes
Classical
Bleach
10’
Enormous savings
40%
ENERGY
Savings up to 1 hour
O S
O 2
O 2
Catalase
50%
TIME
0 20 4 0 60 8 0 100 1 20
15’
Active
Singulet
Molecular
Oxygen
Peroxo-anion
Dyeing
Cellulose
hydrolysis
Time (min)
Time (min)
Efficient, economic and
sustainable
Our new Imerol ® Blue liq is a wizard
with a hat full of fantastic magic tools.
One single product delivers an effi cient,
economic and short discontinuous
pretreatment. May you need a ready-fordyeing
grade or the brighter optical white,
the Blue Magic process will deliver it.
Without a separate rinsing, with less water,
shorter time and reduced energy. It is so
simple that it seems Magic!
The benefits
Efficiency
Maximal absorbency
High degree of whiteness
No cellulose degradation
Better uniformity
Better dye ability
Better body-collar matching
Economy:
Less water (

4
textile
Multi-functionality
Imerol ® Blue liq has more than one rabbit in
its hat. The combination of its exceptional
properties, based on the Singulet Bleaching
Technology, opens new doors for the
exhaust bleaching world.
pH
12
11
10
9
8
7
10.5
Classic
Blue
Magic
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Wetting
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
minutes
High penetration power (Tampex penetration test)
% Enzyme-Activity
100
80
60
40
pH2 pH4 pH6 pH8 pH10 pH12
% Enzyme-Activity
Washing 0 g/l 1 g/l 2 g/l 3 g/l
100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
Strong detergency (wash test on standard soiled fabric)
No foaming
No foaming behavior
Alkali stable
Alkali stable up to 6°Bé and biodegradable
Key functions
Oxygen-active donor
Wetting-washing and dispersing agent
Balance activation/stabilization
Collapsor of pH
Bactosol ® SAP liq c Usual Catalase
30°C 40°C 50°C 60°C 70°C
With Imerol ® Blue liq the following features are
granted:
High wetting and penetration power
(Tampex penetration test) to convey quickly
the bleaching bath to the core of the fiber.
Strong detergency (wash test) and dispersing
behavior to remove the contaminants and
keep them away from the fiber.
No foaming behavior. Machine turbulences
are never an issue.
Stable up to 6° Bé NaOH, suitable for all
exhaust bleaching applications.
Protector against cellulose degradation
Removes fatty substances (high
absorbency)
Disperses oiling agents (no
redeposition, no spots)
Economic Flexibility
Bactosol ® SAP liq c is a hybrid catalase
enzyme with a wide scope of application:
fl exible pH (4 – 9), fl exible temperature (20 –
70°C) and fl exible application (discontinuous
– continuous). There is no more need of
perfectly adjusted pH and temperature: the
elimination of peroxide is total in every
case!
The new Blue Magic process can
be used in all the different forms of
discontinuous pretreatment. From yarn
to cotton flocks, over terry towels,
woven and knitwear, Imerol ® Blue liq
delivers great results.
Yarn packages
Woven fabrics
Knitwear
Absorbent cotton

The combination of Imerol ® Blue liq
and optical brighteners makes you able
to achieve highest degree of whiteness.
Either in one step for high whiteness or in
two steps for the brightest optical white,
the Blue Magic process will always dazzle
you.
Full white in one step
Recipe
Imerol ® Blue liq 1.0 %
NaOH 48° Bé 1.8 %
H 2 O 2 50 % 6.0 %
Leucophor ® BSB liq 0.7 %
Process
Treatment: 20 min. at 110°C
Rinsing: 10 min cold
Neutralizing with Sirrix ® NE liq
Liquor ratio: 1 : 10
Full white in two steps
Peroxide bleaching at 110°C – for highest
white ever
Recipe
Imerol ® Blue liq 1.0 %
NaOH 48° Bé 1.8 %
H 2 O 2 50 % 6.0 %
Process
Treatment: 15 min at 110°C
Rinsing: hot
Liquor ratio: 1 : 10
Reductive bleaching at 70°C
Recipe
Arostit ® BLN Gran 4.0 %
Leucophor ® BSB liq 0.8 %
Process
Treatment: 20 min at 70° C
Rinsing: warm and cold
Liquor ratio: 1 : 10
Blue Magic high temperature
120°C
100°C
80°C
60°C
40°C
20°C
Imerol ® Blue liq – High temperature
max up to
5° C/min
Blue Magic atmospheric
120°C
100°C
80°C
60°C
40°C
20°C
110°C 15 min
Drain
max
5 ’ 10’ Dyeing
0.35 % Bactosol ® 2.5 % H2O2 50 %
1.2 % Imerol
SAP liq c
® Blue liq
1.2 % NaOH 48° Bé Sirrix ® NE liq to pH 7.0
textile
All you need to be ready for dyeing
With the following parameters the Blue Magic process creates high absorbency as well as
a good base whiteness while reducing costs and treatment time.
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Time (min)
Results
Good degree of whiteness
Excellent absorbency
Fabric ready for dyeing
Imerol ® Blue liq – Atmospheric
max up to
5° C/min
Recipe
Imerol ® Blue liq 1.2%
NaOH 48°Bé 1.2%
H2O2 50%
Liquor Ratio
2.5%
1:8
95°C 30 min
Drain
5’ 10’ Dyeing
0.35 % Bactosol ® 2.5 % H2O2 50 %
1.0% Imerol
SAP liq c
® Blue liq
2.2 % NaOH 48° Bé Sirrix ® NE liq to pH 7.0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Time (min)
Results
Good degree of whiteness
Very good absorbency
Fabric ready for dyeing
max
Recipe
Imerol ® Blue liq 1.0%
NaOH 48°Bé 2.2%
H 2O 2 50% 2.5%
Liquor Ratio 1:8
Important parameters
Initial pH 10.5
pH after refi lling* 7.5
* with optimal conditions
Important parameters
Initial pH 11.0
pH after refi lling* 8.5
* with optimal conditions
Clariant’s wide range of optical brighteners for cellulosic fi bers and their blends is
perfectly adapted to the one step Blue Magic bleaching and brightening (Brighten Blue).
A separate brightening combined with a reductive bleaching is also possible with selected
optical brighteners.
Product Shade Affinity Reductive pH stability Reductive Light Fastness to
bath 2) bleaching fastness wash 60 / 95°C
Leucophor ® BSB neutral bluish xxx � > 5.5 xxx 3– 4 4/4
Leucophor ® BSBB 1) bluish xxx > 5.5 – 3– 4 3– 4 / 3– 4
Leucophor ® PC neutral reddish xxx � > 3.5 xxx 3– 4 4/4
Hostalux ® CPA01 1) neutral xxx � > 3.5 xxx 4 4/4
Leucophor ® BMB 1) neutral bluish xx � > 5.5 xxx 3– 4 4– 5 / 3– 4
Leucophor ® BMBB bluish violet xx > 5.5 – 3– 4 3– 4 / 3– 4
Leucophor ® BMF.ID 1) neutral reddish xx � > 3.5 xxx 3– 4 4– 5 / 3– 4
Leucophor ® BMFV bluish xx > 3.5 – 3– 4 4– 5 / 3– 4
1) The use of salt (3 g/l Sodium Sulfate) increases the degree of whiteness
2) Suitable for 2-step bleaching (oxidative bleaching + reductive bleaching/brightening)
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 5

6
textile
Foam Eco Care
Energy and cost saving
state-of-the-art resin finish
History
About two years ago Clariant launched
their “Premium LT Cure” resin fi nish
with their newly developed glyoxalic
resin: Arkofi x ® ELF liq conc. With this
system Clariant was able to achieve noniron
properties on 100% cotton fabrics
with a simple pad-dry-cure process (cure
at low temperature and without the need of
an afterwash) which up to then were only
achievable with a moist-curing process.
At about the same time Cotton
Incorporated started to develop a noniron
fi nish on 100% cotton by doing the
application of the chemicals with a foam
applicator.
In September 2009, Clariant and
Cotton Incorporated came in contact on
this subject of developing a non-iron resin
fi nish by foam application (CFS ® ¹ System
from Gaston Systems).
Objectives
Obtain high DP performance
– 3.5 to 4.0 DP ratings by AATCC
TM 124.
Low wet pick-up with foam fi nishing
– Less energy consumption.
– Chemical reduction by optimum
fi nish placement.
Premium LT Cure System
– Developed by Clariant
International Ltd.
– Low temperature curing (less
energy).
– Safer handling than moist curing
(less acidity).
– No afterwashing.
– Low Formaldehyde
< 75 ppm by ISO 14184-1
(Japanese LAW 112).
Benefits of Foam Eco Care finishing versus
traditional Easy Care finish.
Energy and water savings.
– Less energy consumption because
of lower curing temperatures:
• Traditional Easy Care: Cure at 170°C
• Foam Eco Care: Cure at 130°C.
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Experimental
Trial fabrics
Cotton poplin, 130 g/m 2
Liquid ammonia (LA) treated
Fabric pH 7.0 and alkalinity 0.07% (as
NaOH)
Procedure
Foam Eco Care:
400 g/l Arkofix ® ELF liq c
100 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
80 g/l Ceralube ® SVN liq
40 g/l Solusoft ® MW liq
30 g/l nonionic foaming agent
Foam at 30% wet pick-up
Top and bottom foam applicators
Dry – 110°C, 60 seconds dwell time
Cure – 130°C, 3 minutes
Reference (pad process – Premium LT –
Cure):
200 g/l Arkofix ® ELF liq c
50 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
40 g/l Ceralube ® SVN liq
20 g/l Solusoft ® MW liq
2 g/l nonionic wetting agent
Pad with 60% wet pick-up
Dry – 110°C, 80 seconds dwell time
Cure – 130°C, 3 minutes
Remark: Premium LT-Cure is already improved in respect
of curing temperature : 130°C instead of 170°C.
Results on cotton poplin
Smoothness rating
5
4
3
2
1
0
Foam
Tear strength
3
2
1
0
Flex abrasion
Flex, cycles to break
Elmendorf Tear, lbs
400
300
200
100
0
Foam
Foam
Pad
Pad
Pad
Formaldehyde (ISO 18484-1)
Formaldehyde (ppm)
100
80
60
40
20
0
Foam
Warp
Pad
Untreated
Warp Filling
Untreated
Untreated
Untreated

Experimental
Trial fabrics
Cotton denim, indigo dyed, 345 g/m 2
Desized and scoured
Fabric pH 8.1 and alkalinity 0.10%
(as NaOH)
Procedure
Foam Eco Care:
400 g/l Arkofix ® ELF liq c
100 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
80 g/l Ceralube ® SVN liq
40 g/l Solusoft ® MW liq
30 g/l nonionic foaming agent
Foam at 30% wet pick-up
Top and bottom foam applicators
Dry – 110°C, 90 seconds dwell time
Cure – 130°C, 3 minutes
Reference (pad process – Premium LT –
Cure):
200 g/l Arkofix ® ELF liq c
50 g/l Catalyst NKC liq
40 g/l Ceralube ® SVN liq
20 g/l Solusoft ® MW liq
2 g/l nonionic wetting agent
Pad with 60% wet pick-up
Dry – 110°C, 120 seconds dwell time
Cure – 130°C, 3 minutes
Remark: Premium LT-Cure is already improved in respect
of curing temperature : 130°C instead of 170°C
Results on cotton denim
Smoothness rating
Elmendorf Tear, lbs
Tensile, lbs
5
4
3
2
1
0
8
6
4
2
0
240
200
160
120
80
40
0
100
80
60
40
20
0
Foam
Tear strength
Foam
Tensile strength
Warp Filling
Foam
Foam
Pad
Filling
Pad
Pad
Formaldehyde (ISO 18484-1)
Pad
Untreated
Untreated
Untreated
Untreated
textile
– Lower wet pickup of foam
application compared to pad
application (30% compared to
60%) allows for faster speed and
reduced energy consumption in
drying.
– Foam uses less water in the
application.
Performance
– Superior abrasion performance
with foam as compared to pad
application.
– More or less same smoothness
ratings.
– Low formaldehyde (

8
textile
Foron ® S-WF
Innovation in the field of disperse dyestuffs
Innovation in disperse dyes?
Disperse dyes are the dyes that are the
most commoditized class of textile
dyestuffs. The reasons for this are:
Polyester is the biggest of all textile
fi bers
Polyester is the cheapest textile fi ber
that can be dyed
The biggest polyester producers are
in Asia with the main users in close
proximity
The biggest disperse dyestuff producers
are therefore in Asia and are backward
integrated. Therefore they have a very
low cost base
The environmental bureaucracy (with
its associated cost to industry) has not
reached the same level as in developed
countries, even though the basic
legislation is slowly getting in place
The more the elements are commodities
the more they are interchangeable and the
less innovation tends to result.
From Artisil ® to Foron ®
Past major developments of disperse dyes
Innovation steps for disperse dyes:
Acetate fi ber invention (trade name
Artisil ® for disperse dyes, since acetate
fi ber was nicknamed that time “artifi cial
silk”)
Polyester fi ber invention (not all
disperse dyes for acetate are/were
suitable for polyester – the success of
polyester led to change of trade name
to Foron ® )
High temperature dyeing machine
invention (no need for carrier dyeing
anymore led to a wider choice of
available chemistry - Foron ® SE,
Foron ® S)
Thermosol continuous dyeing process
invention (need for high sublimation
dyes to achieve stable dyeing conditions
– Foron ® S)
Alkaline resist printing (dyestuff as
ground color that can be discharged
with alkali whilst alkaline stable,
‘normal’ disperse dyes are used in the
print paste to form the pattern)
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Foron ® RD (dyestuffs with very good
reproducibility on machines with not so
perfect controls)
Past minor developments of disperse dyes
After the advent of Foron ® RD - end 1970s/
beginning 1980s, only minor developments
took place:
Shade gamut extension (Foron ®
Brilliant Blue S-R)
Fastness property improvements
(benzo-di-furanon reds)
Replacement of ‘forbidden’ dyestuffs
Foron ® S-WF
Innovations from 1985 to 2000?
There was no visible innovation in disperse
dyes after Foron ® Brilliant Blue S-R until
the launch of the initial 4 Foron ® S-WF
dyes 2000.
This lengthy period was needed to fi nd
suitable chemistry that overcame the main
defi ciencies of the Foron ® S type disperse
dyes. These were:
Insuffi cient fastness to washing on
polyester/cellulose blends, especially in
continuous dyeing (Thermosol process,
developed by Sandoz – now Clariant –
in cooperation with Monforts), but also
in exhaust dyeing
Insuffi cient fastness to sublimation
in dark shades for yarn dyed fabric of
fi ner fi laments
Too high staining of white ground
in printing with superheated steam
fi xation on fi ner polyester fabrics
Foron ® S-WF innovation
From 2000 to today the Foron ® S-WF dyes
range has expanded to 16 dyes.
The current range covers a wider
coloristic range than the Foron ® S
range did at its peak (wider in the red
and green area, a little less wide in the
violet area). This year we are finishing
the planned shade gamut by launching
3 new dyes:
Foron ® Turquoise S-WF (for bright
greens to be able to match cotton
standards)
Foron ® Vermillion S-WF (for bright
reds)
Foron ® Atlantic Blue S-WF (greenish
blue dyestuff as metamerism control
element)
Foron ® S-WF dyestuff range
The Foron ® S-WF range consists now of
the following elements:
Foron ® Brilliant Yellow S-WF
Foron ® Golden Yellow S-WF
Foron ® Orange S-WF
Foron ® Scarlet S-WF
Foron ® Vermillion S-WF
Foron ® Red S-WF
Foron ® Rubine S-WF
Foron ® Violet S-WF
Foron ® Blue S-WF
Foron ® Cyanine S-WF
Foron ® Turquoise S-WF
Foron ® Atlantic Blue S-WF
Foron ® Dark Blue S-WF
Foron ® Navy S-WF
Foron ® Carbon S-WF
Foron ® Black S-WF
Innovation in disperse dyes
There has been innovation in the fi eld of
disperse dyes.
The innovation did follow initially the
development in fi ber technology. From
acetate to polyester, from carrier dyeing
to high temperature dyeing, from coarse
staple fi ber to fi ne microfi ber fi laments,
all these developments from the fi ber and
dyeing machine industries necessitated
improvements in the dyestuffs available.
Since one can assume that there will be
no major fi ber or machine development in
the near future, the innovation will have
to cover unmet needs that are not very
visible:
Ecological / toxicological market
demands
Fastness demands form retailers and
consumers
But, as can be seen already with the
introduction of Foron ® S-WF:
Innovation takes time!

Nylosan ® / Lanasyn ®
Innovation in the field of acid dyestuffs –
Innovation in acid dyes?
Acid dyestuffs belong to a class which
is believed to be at the end of its
innovation potential. The reason for this
widespread opinion is clear:
Acid dyes are amongst the fi rst synthetic
dyes ever produced
Nearly half of the whole “Colour
Index”, a comprehensive list of
colorants past and present, published
by the professional bodies SDC and
AATCC, consists of acid dyes (more
than reactive, vat, sulphur, disperse
dyes put together)
There are acid dyestuffs that have been
on the market for more than 100 years
(e.g. CI Acid Blue 113, a standard navy
acid dye for polyamide, was invented
in 1892)
The market for acid dyes is not as big as
the market for disperse dyes, vat dyes
or reactive dyes
There is a lot of interaction between
dyes and fi ber, so an acid dyes range
has to have more elements than e.g.
a reactive dyes range. Therefore the
volumes of single dyes are rather
small if compared to other dyestuff
ranges
From Xylene and Alizarinto
Nylosan ® and Lanasyn ®
A review
Clariant (at that time Chemische
Fabrik Kern & Sandoz) started in 1886
as a dyestuff manufacturer with acid
dyestuffs. In 2011, exactly 125 years later,
acid dyestuffs are still a substantial part of
Clariant’s dyestuff portfolio.
Even though other dyestuff classes
were invented as new fibers came
to the market (such as disperse dyes
for polyester) or as chemical science
made progress (like reactive dyes
for cellulose fibers), acid dyestuffs
remained important. Developed
originally for wool and silk, acid dyes
were further advanced for the synthetic
fiber polyamide.
Over the years our products were
improved; old and well loved trade names
appeared and disappeared again (Xylene,
Alizarin, to just name a few), others are
still in existence (Lanasyn ® , Nylosan ® ).
And thanks to polyamide, with its
development of microfi bers, and an early
awareness by Clariant’s management
regarding the environmental and health
impact of heavy metals in acid dyes,
Clariant refocused on acid dyestuff
innovation.
Nylosan ® S
The problems
Wet fastness:
Deep shades on fi ner fi lament counts
of polyamide cannot be achieved with
suffi ciently high fastness to washing with
existing dyestuffs.
Ecology:
Deep shades with good fastness on
polyamide or wool cannot be achieved
without the use of poisonous heavy metals,
either bound in the dyestuff as metal
complex or generated in situ on the fi ber
with mordant dyes.
Depth of shade:
The fi ner a fi ber fi lament the more dyestuff
is needed to achieve a deeper shade.
Polyamide especially has only a limited
number of dyestuff binding sites.
On natural, non chemically treated
wool, good fabric appearance is not easily
achieved due to the effect of sunlight on
the sheep’s fl eece.
The requirements
The initial quest for solving the problem
was not an easy path to follow:
Find new dyestuff chromophores that
are metal-free and at the same time
so strong that dark shades can be
achieved
The dyestuffs have to have the wet
fastness properties of at least that
achievable with metal complex
dyestuffs
They should be relatively easy to apply
textile
They should not impact negatively on
the spinning properties of wool
Due to the above very demanding
list or requirements, it seemed nearly
impossible that such requirements would
be met. A lot of the demands seemed to
be mutually excluding themselves e.g.
improving the wet fastness of an acid
dyestuff by incorporating a fi ber-reactive
system impacts on the reproducibility and
levelness of a dyeing as well as on the
possible depth that can be reached.
The solution
A new range was born – Nylosan ® S. Even
though still incomplete the range is growing
year on year. Currently it consists of
Nylosan ® Yellow S-L
Nylosan ® Orange S-3R
Nylosan ® Red S-GS
Nylosan ® Red S-3B
Nylosan ® Brilliant Red S-3R (new
2011)
Nylosan ® Blue S-R
Nylosan ® Navy S-3G
The research on Nylosan ® S also
led to the discovery of a very special
dyestuff. Even though having Nylosan ®
S wet fastness levels, because of special
combination possibilities we have chosen
to name it:
Lanasyn ® Flavine F-5G (new 2011)
This dye is the most brilliant acid
yellow element in the market and the
ideal partner to turquoise for bright
greens on polyamide. Just have a look
at the dyed samples.
Acid dyestuff innovation!
There is still life in an old dyestuff fi eld:
a) After exactly 125 years in acid
dyestuffs, Clariant launches with
Lanasyn ® Flavine F-5G a very visible
proof of its innovative spirit.
b) Up to now it was not always possible
to match brilliant yellow or brilliant
green shades on wool or on polyamide
to cotton standards. Now the situation
is reversed.
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 9

10
textile
The high use of pesticides on crops
including cotton, lead to augmentation
of pollution of rivers, soils and seas which
in turn resulted in high rates of sickness,
diseases and even deaths for the human
beings. These toxic chemicals (with
minimal or no biodegradability) entered
not only the life cycle of human beings
but also the plants. This initiated the idea
of ‘Organic’ farming which was further
extended to cotton as well. The clothing
that contains no toxic, carcinogenic or
allergenic chemical residues were preferred
by community. During the decade several
‘Organic’ standards were introduced.
The need of formation of specifi c body
and universal standard was identifi ed in
order to achieve uniformity in ‘Organic’
accreditation and the seeds for Global
Organic Textile Standard sowed.
The Global Organic Textile Standard
(GOTS) is one of the widely accepted
textile processing standards across the
Globe. The standard is not only applicable
to Organic Fibers but also serves Ecological
and Social criteria by virtue of Responsible
care.
The standard covers processing,
manufacturing, packaging, labeling,
trading and distribution of all textiles
made from at least 70% certifi ed ‘Organic’
natural fi bers. However, the standard is not
applicable for products made from nonfi
ber materials such as leather, skin, hide
or rubber.
Evolution of Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS) – Chronology
Before, fi rst version of GOTS was agreed
and published in May, 2005 the process
had already begun way back in 2002 with
the formation of International Working
Group (IWG).
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS)
Formation of International Working
Group (IWG) on Global Organic Textile
Standard at the workshop “Global
Standards” at Intercot, Dusseldorf in
August 2002.
Four major Standard Organisations -
– International Association Natural
Textile Industry (IVN), Germany
– Soil Association (SA), England
– Organic Trade Association (OTA),
USA and
– Japan Organic Cotton Association
(JOCA), Japan signed the
“Agreement” on the common
approach and implementation
methods in July 2004, Wallau.
These four organizations agreed on
the First Version of GOTS and its
implementation in May 2005.
The GOTS Certifi cation system came
into force – October, 2006.
Currently valid Version 2.0 of the
GOTS and GOTS label are introduced
in June 2008.
Foundation of Global Standard GmbH,
an operating unit of IWG, formed for
execution of GOTS program.
GOTS Version 3.0 published in 2011.
Consequently, the following Standards
become completely harmonized with
GOTS.
North American Fiber Standard Organic
Trade Association, USA.
Guidelines ‘Naturtextile IVN
Zertifi ziert’ International Association
Natural Textile Industry, Germany.
Standard for processing and
manufacture of Organic Textiles – Soil
Association, England.
EKO Sustainable Textile Standard-
Control Union Certifi cation (CUC)
(formerly Skal International),
Netherlands.
Standard for Organic Textiles –Ecocert,
France.
Organic Textile Standard – ICEA, Italy
Standards for Organic Textile – ETKO,
Turkey.
Organic Fiber Standard, Oregon Tilth,
USA.
Standard for processing of Organic
Textile products OIA, Argentina.
Criteria for Fiber Production and
Processing & Manufacturing under GOTS
In the harmonized standard, stringent
criteria were adopted for processing,
manufacturing, packaging, labeling,
trading and distribution of all textiles
from certifi ed organic natural fi bers. It is
very diffi cult to cover whole standard in
this article for space constraint, however,
overall general factors during few
important stages are discussed particularly
emphasizing the requirements of dyes,
auxiliaries and processing chemicals.
Fiber production:
Organic Certifi cation of fi bers on the
basis of recognized international or
national standard (e.g. EEC 834/2007,
USDA NOP and EC 345/2008)
Certifi cation of fi bers from conversion
period is possible if applicable farming
standard permits such certifi cation
A textile product carrying the GOTS
label of grade “Organic” must contain
a maximum of 95% certifi ed organic
fi bers and a product with label grade
“made with Organic” must contain a
minimum of 70% certifi ed Organic
fi ber.
Processing and Manufacturing:
All the stages of manufacturing
‘Organic’ fi ber and product made
thereof must be separated from
conventional fi ber product/s and must
be clearly identifi ed.
Chemical inputs, including dyes,
auxiliaries and processing chemicals
must be evaluated and meet the basic
requirements on Toxicity, Eco-toxicity
and biodegradability/eliminability.
The basis for assessment of all
chemical inputs (both substances and
preparations) is Material Safety Data

Sheet (MSDS), prepared according
to an applicable recognized norms
or directive. (ANSI Z400.1 -2004,
1272/2007/EEC,ISO 11014-1,2001/58/
EEC, GHS, and JIS Z 7250:2005,
Part-1).
Following are strictly prohibited:
Chemical inputs containing aromatic
and chlorinated solvents
Surfactants nonyl and octylphenols,
their ethoxylates (NPEOs) and APEOs,
LAS, alpha-MES
Inputs containing functional nano
particles (particles with a size 1-100
nm)
Genetically modifi ed Organisms
(GMO’s) and their derivatives including
enzymes derived from genetically
modifi ed organisms
Complexing agents like EDTA,DTPA,
NTA
Formaldehyde and other short-chain
aldehydes (aldehydes up to 6 carbon
and both momo- and dialdehydes are
considered as “short chain aldehydes)
The use of synthetic sizing agents is
restricted. Knitting and weaving oils
must not contain heavy metals.
No chlorine containing bleaching
agents permitted. Bleaches must be
based on Oxygen.
Fluorocarbons such as PFOS, PFOA
Organotin compounds such as
DBT,MBT,TBT,DOT,TPhT
Plasticizers such as Phthalates,
Bisphenol A and all other ones which
are potentially endocrine disruptors
Polynuclear hydrocarbons (PHA)
All the chemical inputs must be ‘heavy
metal free’ with the exceptions of Dyes
and Pigments containing metals with
restricted values.
Azo dyes that releases carcinogenic
amines upon cleavage. The limit value
for aryl amines on fabric has been
revised to 20 from 30 mg/kg in new
version.
Disperse dyes classifi ed as allergenic
Pigments that releases carcinogenic aryl
amines (MAC III category 1,2 & 3)
Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP etc.)
including their salts and esters
Though the total ban on Quaternary
Ammonium Compound are is dropped
DTDMAC, DSDMAC & DHTDMAC
are banned.
Similarly, ban on biocides used as
“In-can” preservatives has now been
dropped, still they are banned in
fi nishing.
The limit value for AOX has been
changed from 0.5 to 5.0 mg/kg in new
version.
pH levels for products with skin contact
has been limited to 4.5 – 7.5
Limit value for tin, TphT, DOT,PAH,
and Phthalates as well as Cadmium
and Lead in digested samples will be in
accordance with CPSIA.
Substances listed in regulation
552/2009 amending regulation EC
1907/2006 (REACH), Annex XVII
or the “Candidate” list of substances
of very high concern (SVHC) for
Authorization published by European
Chemicals Agency (ECHA) are
prohibited now.
Substances and preparations are banned
if assigned to listed risk phrases related
to Health hazards.
Preparations are also banned if
assigned to listed risk phrases related
to environmental hazards. Now newly
preparations are banned if assigned to
R-51/53,R-55 &R-56.
New preparations are no longer banned
if a contained substance is assigned to
R-50, R-50/53. R-58 and R-59 as long
as this does not trigger a classifi cation
of the product itself.
New animal /Fish tests to determine
toxicity and Eco-toxicity (LD50 and
LC50 Values) are banned.
Wastewater from all wet processing
sites must be treated in an internal
or external functional wastewater
treatment plant before discharged to
surface waters.
For adequate implementation and
assessment for the minimum social
criteria, corresponding key conventions
of the International Labour Organisation
(ILO) is to be considered as basis for
interpretation.
Processors, manufacturers and traders
of GOTS goods must undergo an onsite
annual inspection cycle and must
hold a valid conformity certifi cate.
Gots certifying bodies in india
Presently there are two main organizations
textile
which issues GOTS certifi cates for the
textile dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries and
are located in Bangalore, India.
The Institute of Market ecology (IMO)
which certifi es more than 300 smallholder
farmers groups world wide. The certifi ed
groups vary in size from 20 to 25000
farmers and produce great variety of crops
including cotton.
On the other hand, Control Union
Certifi cation (CUC) is another body which
certifi es approximately 1500 companies
with a total of 2754 facilities in 54
countries.
The top twenty countries based on the
number of GOTS-certifi ed facilities are (in
order of Ranking): India, Turkey, China,
Pakistan, South Korea, Japan, Germany,
Italy, United Kingdom, Bangladesh,
France, Hong kong, Mauritius, Peru, USA,
Netherland, Sri Lanka, Portugal, Greece
and Belgium.
GOTS at Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., reviewed
and revised its existing product list
(meeting GOTS Ver.2.0) for complying
with new GOTS Version 3.0. The whole
process was completed in December 2011
and the certifying body Control Union
Certifi cation (CUC) issued a certifi cate to
that effect consisting in all 71 products.
According to new administrative policy
the certifi cate will be valid till November
29, 2012 and will subsequently be renewed
further depending on the procedures
existing then. The related data on the
various prohibited substances mentioned
earlier was generated in newly established
in-house Clariant Process and Product
Safety Laboratory (CPPSL), located at
Kolshet, India. The laboratory which was
made operational in December 2007 and
is only of its kind in India and Clariant
affi liates caters to the need of Clariant
products predominantly for establishing
process and product safety parameters. The
laboratory is engaged in Physico-chemical,
Ecological and Restricted Substances
Testing under one roof and is accredetated
by National Accredetation Board for
Testing and Calibration Laboratories
(NABL), Department of Science &
Technology, Government of India for ISO
17025:2005 since 2008.
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 11

12
textile
Some Important Definitions
Diffusion
The molecules adsorbed onto the surface of
the fi ber immediately begin to diffuse into the
fi ber. Hence further sites become available
on the cellulose surface for adsorption, and
these are immediately occupied by new dye
molecules exhausted from the bath.
The uptake phase thus consists of a series
of states of equilibrium, the fi nal objective
of which is uniform distribution of the dye
over the accessible areas of the fi ber.
It is self-evident that diffusion is
interrupted by reaction with fi ber.
It is above all the diffusion rate of day,
and not as often claimed, its substantivity
that decides its rate of exhaustion.
Substantivity is only one of the numerous
parameters affecting diffusion rate.
Of all the parameters available to the
dyers, temperature has by far the greatest
effect on diffusion (and hence on migration,
wash-off etc…)
The activation energy of diffusion is
usually between 10-20 kcal/kg which is
equivalent to an increase of the diffusion
rate by a factor of 3 for a temperature
increase of 10°C.
High affi nity reactive dyes, which
exhaust best from the bath, diffuse, migrate
and level fairly slowly and many times
poorly.
Dye reactivity
The reactivity of commercial dye has
greatest infl uencing factor of Reactive
Group itself, Nucleophilic substitution SN2;
the leaving group decides the Reactivity.
With every 1 unit pH increase, the
concentration of secondary alcohol
position of cellulose ionizes to increase by
a factor of 10.
Concentration of – OH in the dyebath
will decide the concentration of cell – O
which is crucial for reaction. Meaning
pH 10-12 the reaction rate will be 1000 -
100,000 times higher than at neutral pH
(for a dye). It is not suffi cient to adjust
the pH of fi xation to a suitable level and
relax as the reaction consumes alkali and
therefore, without a proper buffer capacity,
the pH therefore promptly falls to a level at
which the reaction is too slow.
Standard Affinity
Standard affi nity, like substantivity, is
a measure for the distribution of a dye
between fi ber and the dyebath and thus for
the difference between the dyes affi nity
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
for water (hydrophilic properties) and for
cellulose.
Unlike substantivity, affi nity is always
determined in equilibrium but under
standard dyeing conditions. This may
require many many hours and even days.
Factors like ‘V’ volume of cellulose has to
be worked out before we derive – K cal
affi nity value for one dye under one set of
defi ned conditions including V factor of
the cellulosic sustrate. Negative K cal as
the dyeing is an exothermic reaction.
It is a true dye–specifi c characteristics.
Factors like
Number of coplanar chromophores.
High number of conjugated double
bonds
Every discountinuity in the planarity of
the chromophore that is every decrease
in the size of the delocalized pi electron
system
Polarity
Substituents
Van der waal forces and hydrophobic
forces
Number of solubilising groups like –
SO 3 in the chromophores.
Substantivity
Substantivity of the Dye i.e. the Quotient
of the dye concentration in the fi ber and
the Dye concentration in the bath in the
equilibrium state.
Equlibrium = [ F ] bath > < [F ] cellulose
It is thus a measure for distribution of a dye
between fi ber and aqueous dyebath under
the prevailing dyeing conditions.
Substantivity = f { [F] (cell) / [F] (bath) }
It is thus only a state, which is dependant on
numerous dye, dyebath and fi ber-specifi c
parameters, such as:
Dye concentration, dye affi nity,
electrolyte concentration, liquor ratio,
temperature, pH and type of fi ber.
Moreover, equilibrium is by no
means achieved in most bulk-working
dyeing methods, so that it would often be
more accurate to use the term ‘apparent
substantivity’.
In exhaust dyeing, dyes with no
substantivity will naturally remain in the
dyebath and hydrolyse, i.e. react with
water.
Even in Pad method, in which the dry
fabric instantaneously absorbs dye liquor by
capillary action until completely saturated,
minimum dye substantivity is nonetheless
required. A completely non-substantive
dye that is of necessity in a capillary of the
cellulose will, however, only rarely come
into contact with the capillary wall.The
probability of hydroxyl groups reacting with
cellulose is thus small.
Dye-fiber reaction
Two reaction mechanisms give rise to a
covalent bond between cellulose and the dye
which in terms of degree of fi xation, rate of
fi xation and stability of the dye/fi ber bond
complies with industrial requirements:
Nucleophilic SN2 substitution and
nucleophilic addition.
In nucleophilic SN2 substitution a mobile
halogen atom of the dye is substituted by
the ionized nucleophilic – O group of the
cellulose. Chloro triazenes and groups
like pyrimidine etc. reactive groups of the
reactive system follow this route.
In nucleophilic addition a portion of the
ionized – O group of the cellulose are added
to the active group of the dye. Vinyl sulphone
reactive groups of the dye follow this route.
In cases of Bi reactive dyes, where more
than one group of the above two types or
one of each type are present, they follow the
respective routes.
This is the reason of popularity of these
type of dyes as the probability of dye-fi ber
bonding is higher and even if one of the
reactive groups get hydrolysed with water
reaction, the second may be still available
for dye-fi ber reaction.
By combining two different groups in a
dye, the specifi c weaknesses of each can be
largely eliminated.
Incorporation of the second reactive
group often makes the molecule bulkier,
and this can reduce the diffusion of the
dye in the fi ber and for example impair
washing–off properties (though extent of
wasteful hydrolysed dye is lesser than mono
functional dye) or fi ber levelness. The
second reactive group can impair affi nity
(mostly reducing it). In the exhaust method,
a change such as this can impair levelness.
Therefore skillful selection of the
reactive groups and their positioning
is important to control bulkiness of the
molecule, affi nity, diffusion, wash-off and
levelness.

® Archroma Color Management is a registered trademark of Clariant.
Which shade will make my
creation a fashion statement?
Inspiration has a new name: Archroma ® Color Management.
In fashion, nothing could be more important than color. Get it right, and see sales soar. Get it wrong, and your collection
litters the clearance rack. Archroma’s aim is to get it right, from the design studio all the way through the supply
Clariant Vertrieb (Deutschland) GmbH & Co. KG, c/o Clariant Service (Schweiz) AG, Kundendienst Papier Mitteleuropa,
Rothausstrasse chain to the end 61, customer. 4132 Muttenz, We combine Switzerland, vast Phone: expertise +41 61 in 469 dyestuffs, 7638, www.paper.clariant.com
textiles and customized color standards with
state-of-the-art, web-based tools that keep color on track. No matter how far-flung your operations are, Clariant
is close to you. Any time. Any place. So visit us today at www.archroma.com, and let your inspiration take color.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., Textile Business, Kolshet Office, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet, Thane (W) 400 607, India.
www.clariant.in
What do you need?

14
paper title
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Cartabond ®
Cross linkers for improved offset printing
and converting
Many problems occurring during
papermaking, converting and printing
operations are due to the presence at the
paper surface of free or weakly-bound
particles and fi bers.
Crosslinkers offer improved wet
surface strength by decreasing the water
solubility and/or aqueous swelling of
binders and fi bers close to the paper
surface. They create additional links
between the binder polymer molecules,
the cellulosic fi bers and the fi ller or
surface pigment particles.
The Cartabond range of crosslinkers
comprises:
– Cartabond TSI liquid (Glyoxalbased)
– Cartabond EPI liquid (Glyoxalbased)
– Cartabond MZI liquid (Zirconiumbased)
– Cartabond EZI liquid (Zirconiumbased)
Cartabond crosslinkers are highly
reactive. They quickly crosslink binders
as soon as water is evaporated from the
paper surface in the drying section of
the paper machine.
Cartabond Crosslinkers are selected both on the Chemical properties and the type of the
Paper being produced.
Product Application Benefits Food contact
compliance
Cartabond TSI Multipurpose strength improver. Resistant to high temperature BfR 36
Uncoated and coated and pH conditions in coating color (resp. up to 70ºC and 9.5) FDA 176.180
offset printing paper,
Cartabond EPI office paper, silicon- Multipurpose surface strength improver with optimized BfR 36
release, carbonless paper FDA 176.180
FDA 176. 170
Cartabond MZI Activated Zirconium technology BfR 36
offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180
Coated offset printing compared to benchmark FDA 176. 170
Cartabond KZI paper (LWC, MWC) Activated Zirconium technology BfR 36
offers superior cost performance FDA 176.180
compared to benchmark. No ammonia smell FDA 176. 170
Which Cartabond to select
Cartabond name Reactive on Reaction Formaldehyde Permanent Reaction
OH group COOH group speed Not easy repulping
TSI, EPI ++ 0 +++ No No
MZI, EZI ++ +++ No No
CXI ++ ++ ++ No Yes
0 - Low level : Not recommended + + - Medium level : Recommended +++ - High level : Highly recommended

Why use Cartabond ?
Consequences of a Weak Paper Surface
strength
Damaging Factors
Mechanical stress: rubbing forces on
rolls, pull of printing ink (printing nip),
high speed copies..
Moisture: in drying roll sections,
rewetting before calendering, fountain
water (offset printing)…
Physical Consequences
Free and weakly bonded fi ller particles /
fi bers / coated areas are easily pulled out
of the surface
dusting, linting, picking problems
uneven surface properties (smoothness,
gloss, adhesion, printability…
Operational consequences
Paper Processing: deposits on rolls (drying,
calendering) & coating defaults (uneven
coated layer)
Printing process: degraded printability and
print quality:
Offset: deposits on blanket (piling,
white spots due to picking, uneven print
quality, ink contamination, equipment
contamination (dust).
Offset Printing & Wet Picking
Water is absorbed on the hydrophilic areas
of the printing plate, ink on the hydrophobic
ones.
Ink and water are transferred from
the printing plate to the blanket and from
the blanket to the paper. The paper goes
through several presses to be printed by
each colour before drying.
Picking occurs when the ink fi lm is split
between the paper and the rubber blanket if
the paper is weakened by water addition on
the previous presses.
Growing needs for Wet Surface Strength
Upgrading
Increase of fi ller contents - Use of
PCC
Increased use of Recycled Fibers
Increase use of Eucalpytus, Bagasse
High-speet Photo copiers / Offset
Printers
Development of Newspapers Upgrading
(size press)
How does Cartabond work ?
Cartabond creates new bonds between
cellulosic fi bers, binder and pigment
particles at the paper surface. The
surface structure is more resistant:
dusting, picking and linting problems
can be signifi cantly reduced.
Cartabond TSI liquid decreases the
sensitivity to water of hydrophilic
binders, such as starch, proteins, CMC,
PVOH
Printing Ink
Next
Press
Picking Area
on Printing Nip
Fountain Water
Printing
Plater
Rubber
Blanker
paper title
– swelling of binder molecules is
considerably reduced.
– bonds between cellulosic fi bers and
pigment particiles are more resistant.
The Wet Surface Strength of Papers
and Boards is improved considerably.
This result in:
– Better Printability
– Reduced Deposits on operating
rolls in wet conditions (offset
printing, calendering.)
Paper
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 15

® Trademark protected by Clariant in many countries.
What’
s the
smart
way
to fix a sticky problem?
With Cartaspers ® PSM and SCH liquids:
designed to remove stickies at source
Papermakers today are confronted with increasingly poor quality recycled fibers, which is pushing
up the cost of deposit control. Now Clariant offers two solutions designed to tackle the problem at
source. Added to shower water, Cartaspers ® PSM creates a hydrophilic coating that prevents stickies
from adhering to machine wire, while Cartaspers ® SCH introduces trillions of tiny polymer particles that
attach themselves to stickies and stop them clogging machines. The bottom line for paper producers
is lower costs, less downtime and improved productivity, while the reduced use of solvents and detergents
is good news for the environment. And that’s a win-win situation whichever way you look at it.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd, BU Paper Specialties, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane – 400 607, India.
Tel: +91 22 2531 5392, Fax: +91 22 2531 5092, E-mail: ccilpaper.group@clariant.com, www.clariant.in
What do you need?

leather
Clariant predicts a summer palette
to cheer the senses
Clariant has introduced its new leather
trend booklet ‘Fashion Up!, illustrating
the four new trends in leather for Spring/
Summer 2013 which indicate gradual rather
than sweeping changes. This is illustrated
in Clariant’s ‘Modern World’ story that
subtly updates minimalism. Classic
summer trend stories such as ‘Castaway’
and ‘Bon Voyage’ are based around the
coast and beach holidays and offer a
relaxed and a dressy way to cover the look.
Last but not least, the youth market is not
forgotten with an urban-based trend called
‘Youthquake’.
Clariant’s Leather Trends -
Spring Summer 2013
Castaway
Seashells, fl otsam and jetsam washed
up on the white sandy shoreline are the
inspiration for dry organic textures and a
soft palette of summer pastels. Wooden
soled sandals and dressier pumps in pale
natural leathers look to the ocean with
coral shaped heels and cowrie shell trims.
This island theme works equally well
for laid-back looks or more elegant styles.
For men, desert boots and soft casuals
emphasize large natural grains.
The Look - “Natural with a free Spirit”
Bon Voyage
A retro Mediterranean cruise is the theme,
reminders of summer vacation wear circa
the sixties and seventies. Multi-colored
weaves, exotic reptile, large grains, suede
and veg-tan leathers are introduced in
spicy Mediterranean brights. This is an
upbeat story, combining high summer fun
with a touch of nostalgia, spanning dressy
beachwear to after dark glamour.
The Look – “Old time glamour with a
sun-kissed appeal”
Modern World
Clean angular shapes inspired by modern
architecture and interior design update the
minimalist fashion story. Smart offi cewear
and formal mean business, with sharply
contrasting blocks of color and bold
graphic patterns. Smooth shiny textures
with a fi rm handle are required for the
sculptured silhouettes. Clear bold colors,
subtle metallics and shimmer effects add
impact to the simple lines.
The Look - “Sharp, clean and very well
groomed”
Youthquake
This young urban fashion story celebrates
inner city life. It is the development of the
current nineties grunge revival, and also
moves on the long running, man-tailored
story. City neutrals spiked with acid brights
are seen for a mix of heavily distressed
leathers and technical textures.
The Look –“Young and streetwise with
attitude”
Feel The Fashion - Colour Trends
for Spring Summer 2013
Colors undisputedly will remain an
important fashion driver in Spring-Summer
2013 and range through the entire spectrum
of the rainbow. Everything seems possible
– there is not just one theme, one look. On
the contrary, it is increasingly a question
of versatility, of variable combinations
and of nuances. The new colors appear
more sophisticated, subtler and more
delicate – working with them calls for
great sensitivity. Many recall times past,
with inspiration coming foremost from
the 1950s. The overall impression is fresh,
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 17

18
leather
bright and very summery, conveying
optimism and lightness of emotion.
Everything is now fi ner and frequently
represented with signifi cantly more gloss
and metallic sparkles.
Clariant has launched its new Global
Color Card Spring/Summer 2013
developed in close cooperation with
MODEUROP, the Fashion Pool at DSI (Das
Schuhinstitute GmbH). The three color
themes ‘Luminous Brights’, ‘Powered
Pastels’ and ‘Vivid Naturals’ present a color
palette which ranges through the entire
spectrum of the rainbow. The new colors
appear more sophisticated, subtler, and
more delicate – working with them calls for
great sensitivity. The overall impression is
fresh, bright and very summery, conveying
Luminous Brights
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
optimism and lightness of emotion.
EasyWhite Tan – ICIS Innovation
Award Honors Clariant’s
Revolutionary Tanning Process
Clariant’s new EasyWhite Tan Tanning
process, introduced to the global leather
industry earlier this year, has been
recognized by the 2011 ICIS Innovation
Awards, receiving special mention within
the Environmental Benefi t Award. ICIS,
the world’s largest information provider for
the chemical and oil industries, assembled
a distinguished panel of judges to consider
entries from around the world.
In the category of Innovation with Best
Environmental Benefi t, the judges cited
the way Clariant, a leader in the fi eld of
Soft, very quiet, and tranquil. Peaceful – barely there. The minimalist color theme ranges from
white to beige, from gently shimmering natural gold to cooler silver shades. Everything appears
neat, discreet and bright, as if flooded with light, transparent and uncommonly sensitive – just like
the air, a delicate breath.
Powered Pastels
A little kitschy and seductive, yet still cool with a pinch of romanticism and the charm of the 1950s.
Inspired by the world of candies, the pastel colors appear slightly sweet and just ask for contrasts
with black and grey. A theme suggesting the perfect Florida holiday mood – it’s pure joie de vivre!
Vivid Naturals
The vital energy of nature serves as inspiration. With the opulent vegetation and exotic fruits of the
tropical rainforest in mind, the color palette is wide. It streams from sun yellow to fiery orange and
rich red as well as from natural green to variations in brown.
“Feel the Fashion with Color Trends for Spring/Summer 2013”
specialty chemicals, had developed a more
environmentally friendly leather-tanning
product, and singled out the company for
special mention. According to Judge Dr.
Gregg Zank, senior vice president and chief
technology offi cer at Dow Corning, the
panel wanted “to recognize that Clariant is
doing something signifi cant here, with an
interesting innovation that has an impact
on sustainability.”
Clariant’s EasyWhite Tan process
is considered the fi rst fundamental
advancement in tanning for 125 years.
This simpler, safer way to tan leather
reduces water and chemical consumption
and waste-water salinity, compared
with tanning based on chrome, phenols,
aldehydes or vegetable extracts.
“We are extremely proud that our
company has received recognition of
this kind and from an organization with
the reputation of the ICIS,” said Claus
Reineking, the product manager for Wet
End Chemicals. He is the third member of
the Easy White Tan core development team,
along with chemists Roberta Gamarino and
Licia Trimarco, who conducted research in
2006 at Clariant’s R&D facility in Italy.
Claus Reineking: “Our process uses 80%
less salt and 50% less water than traditional
tanning, with production times cut almost
in half, from 14 to eight hours.”
Roberta Gamarino (left) and Licia Trimarco
(right) from the Clariant Wet End Leather
Application & Development Center in
Palazzolo, Italy showing their ICIS Innovation
Award at the award ceremony in London
on December 2, 2011. Together with Claus
Reineking, who could not take part at the
ceremony, Roberta and Licia built the core
invention team of EasyWhite Tan.

leather
Clariant at 27th India International
Leather Fair
Inauguration of Clariant Booth by Mr. Claus Reineking – Head, PM Wet end Chemicals and
Mr. Ralph Schneider – Head PM Finishing.
Clariant’s Leather Business Unit presented
the new Innovations, performance
products, breathtaking fashion trends, eye
catching leathers and exciting advances
under the motto “Sense the Difference” at
27th edition of India International Leather
Fair organized by ITPO (Indian Trade
Promotion organization) at Chennai trade
centre, Nandambakkam. Our exciting
innovations were showcased in Booth
No 3-17-B of hall 2/3.
The India International Leather Fair is a
one-of-a-kind expo that brings together the
leather industry leaders to encourage new
developments and advancements, enable
the industry to assess the new global
challenges and prepare to compete with
the best in the world. The event aimed to
showcase the latest technologies, designs,
fashion trends and processes involved
in the manufacturing of leather related
products from raw material to fi nished
products. It also focused on auxiliary
products such as fi nished leather; shoes;
shoe components - uppers, soles, heels,
counters, lasts; leather garments, fashion
accessories, leather goods - wallets, belts,
gloves, portfolios, hand bags; saddlery and
harness; machinery and equipment and
chemicals.
Our Clariant booth was formally
inaugurated by Mr. Claus Reineking
– Head, PM Wet End Chemicals and
Mr. Ralph Schneider – Head PM Finishing
on the evening of January 31, 2012.
Mr R. Kumaresan (Head, BU – Leather
services), Mr. Sumanta Mukherjee (Head
– Marketing & Product Management),
Mr Surjit Singh from Germany along
with our sales & Marketing team were
also present during the ribbon cutting
ceremony.
The next three days of the fair witnessed
the fl ow of visitors from all over India and
there were also many overseas visitors to
our booth. Sustainability, Innovation and
serving the Industry are the key messages
emphasized by us.
Taking center stage at the event
was Easy White Tan, Clariant’s new
industry standard-setting innovation. This
technology has been developed using
Clariant’s Granofi n ® Easy F-90 Liquid,
an organic compound that is not based on
chrome, phenols or aldehydes. It provides
a more environmentally friendly, safer
and simplifi ed tanning process that will
have major benefi ts for tanners supplying
almost every sector, from automotive
leather to footwear. It removes the need
to add salt during the tanning process as
well as reducing the number of stages in
the tanning process itself.
A highlight from Clariant’s wet end
range was the new waterproofi ng agent
Dermaphob ® WA-71, specially developed
for high-performance Water Repellent shoe
uppers. The product is highly effective,
even with very low application levels.
In Finishing, the main focus was on
more eco-friendly products and systems,
eliminating or strongly reducing the
solvents, combined with the fi nest
aesthetics and high performance. Clariant’s
new Aqualen ® topcoat systems, including
Melio ® 09-W-66 and Aqualen ® Top GC-
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 19

20
leather
Unveiling ceremony of the SS13 collection by Mr. I.S.Paul of Drish Shoes Ltd.
2033 are designed to generate a wet,
pleasant feel combined with excellent wet
rub-resistance.
The specialty chemical expert’s
approach to improved environmental
performance is further strengthened with
Aqualen ® Top IL, which provides an easy
and effective intermediate lacquer for base
coated leathers without the use of solvents.
The new high gloss aqueous patent
topcoat Melio ® 09-T-42 is recognized as
a breakthrough in water-based fi nishing
systems replacing solvent-based topcoats.
There also have been major
developments in Clariant’s Oils & Waxes
Team Up !!!
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
Range; with Clariant’s diversifi ed range
of special oil & wax products like Melio ®
Wax PO-418, Melio ® Oil PO-210, Melio ®
Oil PO-212, it is possible to achieve special
effects with specifi c surface textures.
We have also presented the new Global
Color Card for the season developed in
close cooperation with MODEUROP, the
Fashion Pool at DSI (Das Schuhinstitut
GmbH) – as well as its leather trend
booklet Fashion Up!, in preparation for
Spring / Summer 2013.
Our delightful dyeing with Melioderm ®
and Supronil ® HK dyes added fl avour to
the set.
The show ended on 3rd February with
a positive note and overwhelming response
from our customers.
“It was indeed a great pleasure to
participate in such Fairs as events like this
are giving us the opportunity to collaborate
with tanners, buyers, traders and designers
from across the country to exchange
ideas and business opportunities in the
fi eld of leather and chemicals. This is a
wonderful platform to showcase our new
developments, innovative products and
technologies and our expertise in meeting
the customer needs”, says Mr. Kumaresan,
Head-BU Leather Services.

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®
Wh W o lo look ok o s af afte te t r ou our r he heal al alth th aand
nd tthe
t he h env e nv nvir ir iron on o me m nt nt?
Clariant, with its Aqualen ® Topcoats – NMP-free for years
Due to our philosophy of protecting ecology and health, Clariant’s Aqualen ® Topcoat range has been free of
®
N -Methylp
yrrolidone
for
years.
The
environmentall
y friendly
Aqualen
range
offers
high-perf
ormance
topcoats
for all kinds of applications, from glazed kid imitation to high-wear-resistant automotive leather. Enjoy the
good feeling to be on the safe side: high performance topcoats – without N-Methylpyrrolidone and low VOCs.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, Leather Business, Kences Towers, 2nd Floor, 1 Ramakrishna Road, Tamil Nadu – 600017, India.
Tel: +91 44 2814 4136 / 7 / 8; Fax: +91 44 2814 4151. www.clariant.in
title
What do you need?
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 21

22
gleanings from press
Clariant awarded the EU
Ecolabel for its Advanced
Denim Illustration Collection
Clariant has become one of the fi rst
companies to be awarded an EU
Ecolabel (Certifi cate number: ES-
CA/016/007) for denim, in recognition of
the sustainability benefi ts of its Advanced
Denim process.
The EU Ecolabel, also known as the
“EU Flower label”, is considered one of
the highest certifi cations, acknowledging
that all stages in the production of
a fi nished article have met the EU’s
stringent environmental protocols.
Award recognizes Clariant’s groundbreaking
innovation in sustainable
denim production for textile industry.
Clariant, global textiles solutions
provider, developed its own denim
prototype clothing collection, working
with a textile mill and laundry, in order
to demonstrate that achieving Ecolabel
certifi cation for denim is a practical reality
with its Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing technology.
Problems associated with traditional
denim fabric production have contributed
towards making Ecolabel certifi cation for
denim diffi cult to attain.
Clariant’s new Advanced Denim
technology has simplifi ed the fi nishing
World Cotton Production to
Decline Next Season
Cotton experts have lowered their
estimates for cotton production for
next season as falling prices lead farmers
to focus on alternative crops-but say rising
mill use and lower cotton prices could fuel
a rebound in world cotton trade.
colour chronicle 2 | 2012
and dyeing of a fabric that accounts for
some 14% of global cotton production.
In the conventional denim indigo
dyeing process, the fabric passes through
a line of 10 to 14 vats, depending on the
equipment used. Clariant’s Denim-Ox
process brings this sequence down to 4,
and its Pad/Sizing Ox reduces this further
to just 1 vat. Both methods utilize the
company’s Diresul ® RDT dyes, which
generate a broader spectrum of shades
than usually associated with conventional
indigo dyes but without its environmental
problems.
An environmental revolution is possible –
with Clariant’s Advanced Denim
It has been calculated that if Clariant’s
new Advanced Denim technology were
adopted in the production of 25% of jeans
worldwide, it would save 62 million m 3
of water/year, the equivalent of the water
consumption of 1.7 million people.
The new chemistry available would
also eliminate the need to treat 8.3 million
m 3 /year of wastewater, 220 million kWh
of power would be saved and the carbon
footprint of the industry in CO 2 emissions
reduced accordingly.
Added-value Advanced Denim
process supports industry’s global
fashion trends and efficiency goals.
“We needed to show our partners in
the denim production chain that our new
process could fundamentally improve their
own environmental credentials and their
ability to promote and market them,” says
Miguel Sanchez, head of global PL dyes
in the Textile Chemicals business unit of
Clariant. “The EU Ecolabel endorsement
illustrates that the Advanced Denim
process is an essential element for those
denim manufacturers who wish to benefi t
from the retail and consumer benefi ts that
fl ow from Ecolabel status.”
The forecast from inter-governmental
group the International Cotton Advisory
Committee (ICAC) comes after cotton
prices jumped to a record high of US$1.64
per pound in 2010/11, but dropped sharply
in the current season.
For the fi rst time in three years, it says,
the crop is less attractive than the main
alternatives. As a result, the Secretariat
projects global cotton area to fall by 8% in
2012/13 to 33.3m hectares and production
to drop by 6% to 25.1m tons.
Cotton production is expected to
decline in most large producing countries,
with the exception of the US, Uzbekistan
and Australia. However, after two seasons
at depressed levels, global cotton mill
use is forecast to start again in 2012/13
– providing there is a recovery in global
economic growth that boosts purchases of
textiles products and consumption of raw
fi bers. Largely driven by demand in Asia,
global cotton mill used could rise by 3% in
2012/13 to 25.0 m tons.
Together, rising mill use and lower
cotton prices could fuel a rebound in
world cotton trade in 2012/13. Imports and
expected to jump by 9% to 8.4m tons. As
global production and consumption are
expected to roughly balance in 2012/13
global cotton stocks are forecast to
increases only slightly, to 11.6m tons.
Textile machinery firms line up
at ITMA Asia 2012
Despite the current global economic
slowdown, leading textile machinery
manufacturers around the world are still
attracted to prospects offered by the
world’s largest textile producer China.
This can be seen from the overwhelming
response received by the combined textile
machinery show, ITMA ASIA + CITME
2012, which will be held at the Shanghai
New International Expo Center from 12 to
16 June 2012.
India: Textiles & other clusters
will increase India-Africa trade
The core sectors of cooperation
which will be explored by IABC are
Agriculture, including Agro-processing,
Manufacturing, pharmaceutical, Textiles,
Mining, Petroleum & Natural Gas,
Information Technology and Information
Technology Enabled Service, Gems and
Jewellery, Banking, Financial Service
(including microfi nance), Energy, Core
Infrastructure including Roads and
Railways. The council met later in the
day.
During the meeting, the Cotton
Technical Assistance Programme in
the C-4 Countries (Burkina Faso, Benin,

Chad, and Mali), Malawi, Nigeria and
Uganda were also launched. The Technical
Assistance Programmer in the cotton sector
is an initiative of the Government of India
under the umbrella of the ‘India-Africa
Forum Summit’ towards helping the abovementioned
cotton growing countries of
Africa to build capacity, technical expertise
and thereby competitiveness in the fi eld.
IL&FS Cluster Development Initiative
Limited is the Project Management Agency
for implementing the project.
Clariant Steps up innovation
and expansion strategy in flame
retardants
With demand for safer, more
environmentally-compatible
materials in smartphones, tablets and
laptops, showing a steady increase, Clariant
steps up its support for the electrical and
electronics (E & E) industry with capacity
expansion and a pioneering manufacturingeffi
ciency advance for non-halogenated
fl ame retardants.
The speciality chemicals expert is
adding a third production unit for its Exolit
OP non-halogenated fl ame retardant at
its site in Hurth-Knapsack, near cologne,
Germany. It is the latest phase in Clariant’s
on going capacity expansion for its
phosphinate-based fl ame retardant product
line, which has become a well-established
halogen free alternative to brominated
fl ame retardants for engineering thermoplastics
and other polymers in electric and
electronic equipment.
Government bans cotton exports
with immediate effect
The Directorate General of Foreign
Trade has banned the exports of cotton
from India, the second largest producer and
exporter of the commodity with immediate
effect, reports said.
The move extends to expert for which
registration certifi cates have already been
accepted.
“Export against registration certifi cates
already issued will also not be allowed”
Feedback ?
Send your suggestions/entries to
rajendra.gode@clariant.com
Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
www.clariant.in
DGFT’s notifi cation said.
India has already exported 9.4mn bales
(1bale=170kg) in the current marketing
year (October to September), higher than
Government estimates of 8.4mn bales.
Reports said that contracts were signed
for exports of 10-12mn bales, including
the shipped amount.
“The decision to ban further exports
took into account the trend of domestic
consumption and depletion of domestic
availability” the Union Ministry of Textiles
said in a statement.
Availability has reduced to less than
the production levels of 2009-10, and also
reduced the carry forward fi gure below the
advisable inventory level, it added.
Higher export than anticipated in cotton
season 2010-11 reduced the expected
carryover of stock for the current cotton
season 2011-12, from 4.83 bales estimated
by the Cotton Advisory Board (CAB) to
about 3.3mn bales.
Protect textiles firms by
reserving 2.5mn cotton bales:
AEPC
Unlike china, the textiles industry is
facing exceptional hike of cotton
prices and scarcity of cotton as India dose
not have the policy of keeping cotton
reserve.
The surplus in cotton exports from
India to China is creating a negative impact
in the industry. A total cotton export in the
current year has been more than 85% which
has been shipped to China. The reason for
China importing a huge quantity of cotton
from India is to increases their cotton
reserve to offset the price fl uctuation in
future and also to maintain a regular cotton
supply to the textiles mills.
Tirupur gets SGS testing Facilty
SGS India, a leader in the inspection
verifi cation, testing and certifi cation
services, announced that the company has
recently inaugurated a new lab in Tirupur
to serve the Knit city’s textile and home
textile manufactures, exporters, buyers and
Printed and Published by
Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited
Design by Point-n-Pixel
Printed by Multiple Images
gleanings from press
domestic retailers.
The new world class testing facility
located at College Road was inaugurated
by Mr A Sakthivel, president of the Tirupur
Exporters Association. The lab will serve
clients with its enhanced restricted substance
testing capabilities to meet requirements of
International and Indian standards.
Eastman completes expansion of
hydrocarbon resins
Eastman chemical company has completed
the expansion of its hydrogenated
hydrocarbon resins facility in Middleburg,
Netherlands. The Middleburg expansion,
which is the third expansion of its Regalite
hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins, has
doubled capacity at the site since 2006.
We continue to see the demand of
our hydrogenated hydrocarbon resins
grow around the world, ‘said Brad Lich’
vice president and general manager
of Eastman’s coatings, adhesives,
specialty polymers and inks business.
This expansion, in combination with our
de-bottlenecking of Eastotac hydrogenated
hydrocarbon resins capacity in Longview,
Texas, and our expansion of hydrocarbon
capacity in Jefferson, Pennsylvania,
demonstrates our commitment to growing
with our customers and meeting demand in
developing regions.
EURO crisis to hit export growth
Credit rating agency CARE recently
said that India’s export growth is likely
to be hit in the coming months due to Euro
zone crisis.
Though India is primarily a domestic
economy. India’s exports are positively
linked to the global economic growth. This
is likely to adversely impact India’s export
growth in the coming months,’CARE
said in a report entitled ‘Impact of Euro
Crisis and Global Slowdown on India’.
However it said that the growth will be
only marginaly affected by the slowdown
in the Euro region debt-stricken countries
as India’s exposure is low.
Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi
Editorial Co-ordinator: Rajendra Gode
Consulting Editor: Philips Abraham
Editorial Board: Tushar Choudhary
U.S. Shashikeerthy
Nirmal Punjabi
colour chronicle 2 | 2012 23

Why do the seats look as if
this has never happened before?
Our textiles’ expertise delivers outstanding effects.
Clariant is your partner for specialty chemicals and dyes, in every step of the textiles chain. Textile mills,
retailers and brand owners – we know what drives your markets, and we support you with a global
presence, technical know-how and innovative solutions. Achieve outstanding effects through Clariant’s
products, which impart flame retardance, water and oil repellency, antimicrobial protection, moisture
management, soil release properties, UV-protection and more. Clariant is close to you. Any time. Any place.
Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd., BU Textile Chemicals, Kolshet Office, P. O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet, Thane (W) 400 607, India.
www.textiles.clariant.com, www.clariant.in
What do you need?