Switzerland7 - Basel-Aargau
Switzerland7 - Basel-Aargau
Switzerland7 - Basel-Aargau
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Switzerland<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> & <strong>Aargau</strong><br />
(Chapter)<br />
Edition 7th Edition, June 2012<br />
Pages 14<br />
Page Range 236-249<br />
Useful Links:<br />
PDF<br />
Coverage includes: <strong>Basel</strong>, Augusta Raurica, Rheinfelden, <strong>Aargau</strong> Canton, Baden<br />
and the Aare.<br />
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> & <strong>Aargau</strong><br />
POP 456,900 / AREA 1958 SQ KM / LANGUAGE GERMAN<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> .............................238<br />
Around <strong>Basel</strong> ................246<br />
Augusta Raurica ...........246<br />
<strong>Aargau</strong> Canton ..............246<br />
Rheinfelden ...................246<br />
Baden ............................ 247<br />
Southwest along<br />
the Aare .........................248<br />
Best Places to Eat<br />
» St Alban Stübli (p243)<br />
» Acqua (p243)<br />
» Restaurant Schlüsselzunft<br />
(p243)<br />
» Oliv (p243)<br />
» Charon (p243)<br />
Best Places to<br />
Stay<br />
» Au Violon (p242)<br />
» Hotel Krafft (p243)<br />
» SYHA <strong>Basel</strong> St Alban<br />
Youth Hostel (p242)<br />
» Les Trois Rois (p243)<br />
» Der Teufelhof (p242)<br />
Why Go?<br />
Tucked up against the French and German borders in the<br />
northwest corner of the country, business-like <strong>Basel</strong> straddles<br />
the majestic Rhine. The town is home to top-fl ight<br />
art galleries, museums and avant-garde architecture, and<br />
boasts an enchanting old town centre.<br />
The Beyeler Foundation off ers one of the most important art<br />
collections in Switzerland, there’s an absorbing museum devoted<br />
to madcap sculptor Jean Tinguely and there are showpieces<br />
by some of the world’s best contemporary architects<br />
in nearby Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein, Germany.<br />
Excursions outside <strong>Basel</strong> lead the curious visitor to the<br />
country’s fi nest Roman ruins at Augusta Raurica, a short<br />
train ride east of <strong>Basel</strong> along the Rhine, and to a gaggle of<br />
proud castles and pretty medieval villages scattered across<br />
the rolling countryside of <strong>Aargau</strong> canton. A journey along<br />
the Aare takes in the canton’s coquettish medieval capital,<br />
Aarau, the equally fetching thermal-bath town of Baden and<br />
charming castle-topped Lenzburg.<br />
When to Go<br />
Although <strong>Basel</strong> is famous for its Fasnacht and Vogel Gryff<br />
festivals in spring and winter, the best time to visit is in summer.<br />
The city shucks off its notorious reserve to bask in some<br />
of the hottest weather in Switzerland. As locals bob along in<br />
the fast-moving Rhine, whiz by on motor scooters, and dine<br />
and drink on overcrowded pavements, you might feel like<br />
you’re in Italy, rather than on the border with France and<br />
Germany. The Christkindlmarkt t (Christmas market) in the<br />
Old Town creates a special magic in the four weeks leading<br />
up to Christmas.
<strong>Basel</strong> & <strong>Aargau</strong> Highlights<br />
8 Take a thermal soak in<br />
Baden (p247)<br />
6 Hit the bars (p244) of<br />
Kleinbasel for a big night out<br />
7 Visit the pretty moated<br />
castle of Wasserschloss<br />
Hallwyl (p248)<br />
4 Pop across the border to<br />
Weil am Rhein’s Vitra Design<br />
Museum (p239)<br />
5 Admire Switzerland’s most<br />
extensive Roman remains at<br />
Augusta Raurica (p246)<br />
1 Take in the art at<br />
Fondation Beyeler (p238)<br />
2 Join in the festivities of<br />
Fasnacht (p241)<br />
3 Explore the pretty Old<br />
Town (p238) of <strong>Basel</strong><br />
237<br />
BASEL & AARGAU<br />
BASEL & AARGAU
238 BASEL<br />
BASEL & AARGAU BASEL<br />
POP 166,200 / ELEV 273M<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> is the closest Switzerland comes to<br />
having a seaport; the Rhine is navigable<br />
for decent-sized ships from this point until<br />
it reaches the North Sea in Holland. It<br />
follows a gentle bend through the city,<br />
from southeast to north.<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>’s year-round attractions, including<br />
the engaging Old Town, are mostly<br />
concentrated in Grossbasel (Greater <strong>Basel</strong>)<br />
on the south bank of the Rhine. Over the<br />
river, Kleinbasel (Little <strong>Basel</strong>) is a grittier<br />
area, long home to this rich city’s working<br />
class. The relief bust of Lällekeenig (Tongue<br />
King) – there’s a copy at the crossroads at<br />
the southern end of Mittlere Brücke – sticking<br />
his tongue out at the northern end, just<br />
about sums up the old attitude between the<br />
two sides of town.<br />
History<br />
The Romans founded a colony in Raurica,<br />
east of <strong>Basel</strong>, in Celtic territory in 44<br />
BC. By the time the city (Basileum) was<br />
fi rst mentioned in 3rd-century texts, the<br />
Romans had established a fort on the<br />
heights around what is now the Münster<br />
as part of a defence system along the<br />
Rhine.<br />
Medieval <strong>Basel</strong> changed hands several<br />
times, passing from the Franks to Burgundy<br />
and later to the Habsburgs. In 1501, the<br />
city, which had increasingly come to be run<br />
THE EXPLOSIVE WORLD OF<br />
JEAN TINGUELY<br />
Raised in <strong>Basel</strong>, Jean Tinguely (1925–<br />
91) was indefatigable, working on his art,<br />
including countless installations, until<br />
shortly before his death. Known above<br />
all for his ‘kinetic art’, or sculptural machines,<br />
Tinguely spent much of his life in<br />
Paris, immersed in the artistic<br />
avant-garde. Not all of his machines<br />
were designed for posterity; among his<br />
more spectacular installations (at a time<br />
when installation art was in its infancy)<br />
was his self-destructible Homage to<br />
New York, which failed to completely<br />
self-destruct in the gardens of New<br />
York’s Museum of Modern Art in 1960. A<br />
more successful big bang was his Study<br />
for an End of the World No 2 in the<br />
desert near Las Vegas in 1962.<br />
by its powerful Zünfte (guilds), joined the<br />
Swiss Confederation.<br />
By the beginning of the 20th century,<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> was a busy industrial, trade and banking<br />
centre. Little has changed since, with the<br />
chemical and pharmaceutical industries at<br />
the forefront of an economy that contributes<br />
20% of the country’s exports. Its importance<br />
as a centre of art collections also has a long<br />
tradition. In the 1930s, the Kunstmuseum<br />
acquired a priceless collection of modern<br />
works from Nazi Germany that Hitler and<br />
company considered to be ‘degenerate art’.<br />
1 Sights<br />
Opening hours are given for high season<br />
(April through October); hours are usually<br />
shorter at other times of the year. For more<br />
on the city’s 30-plus museums and galleries,<br />
grab the relevant tourist offi ce booklet or<br />
check out www.museenbasel.ch.<br />
Altstadt NEIGHBOURHOOD<br />
The medieval Old Town in the heart of<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> is a delight. Start in Marktplatz, which<br />
is dominated by the astonishingly vivid red<br />
facade of the 16th century Rathaus (town<br />
hall). A walk about 400m west of Marktplatz<br />
through the former artisans’ district along<br />
Spalenberg leads uphill to the 600-year-old<br />
Spalentor city gate, one of only three to<br />
survive the walls’ demolition in 1866.<br />
The narrow lanes that riddle the hillside<br />
between Marktplatz and the Spalentor form<br />
the most captivating part of old <strong>Basel</strong>. Lined<br />
by impeccably maintained, centuries-old<br />
houses, lanes like Spalenberg, Heuberg and<br />
Leonhardsberg are worth a gentle stroll.<br />
About 400m south of Marktplatz is<br />
Barfüsserplatz, named after the eponymous<br />
church that was deconsecrated in<br />
the 18th century and long the seat of the<br />
Historisches Museum <strong>Basel</strong>. The lanes<br />
around here are lined with shops and<br />
eateries.<br />
Just south of Barfüsserplatz is the zany<br />
Tinguely Fountain (Theaterplatz), which has<br />
all sorts of wacky machines spewing and<br />
shooting forth water. It is a foretaste of the<br />
madcap moving sculptures in the Museum<br />
Jean Tinguely.<br />
oFondation Beyeler ART MUSEUM<br />
(www.fondationbeyeler.ch; <strong>Basel</strong>strasse 101, Riehen;<br />
adult/child Sfr25/6; h10am-6pm Mon-Tue & Thu-<br />
Sun, 10am-8pm Wed) Of all the private Swiss<br />
collections made public, that of the former<br />
art dealers Hildy and Ernst Beyeler is the
most astounding. In the Beyeler Foundation<br />
collection, sculptures by Miró and Max<br />
Ernst are juxtaposed against tribal fi gures<br />
from Oceania. The walls of this long, low,<br />
light-fi lled, open-plan building designed<br />
by Italian architect Renzo Piano are hung<br />
with 19th- and 20th-century works by the<br />
likes of Picasso and Rothko. The admission<br />
price may seem steep, but the breadth of<br />
the collection is near overwhelming. Take<br />
tram 6 to Riehen from Barfüsserplatz or<br />
Marktplatz.<br />
Vitra Design Museum MUSEUM<br />
(www.design-museum.de; Charles Eames Strasse<br />
1, Weil am Rhein; adult/child €8/free; h10am-<br />
6pm) Always fancied seeing the amazing<br />
Bilbao Guggenheim Museum in Spain and<br />
fi nd yourself in <strong>Basel</strong>? Pop across the German<br />
border to this design museum for a<br />
small taste of the same. Not only is the<br />
main museum building designed by the<br />
Guggenheim’s architect, Frank Gehry, the<br />
surrounding factory complex of famous<br />
furniture manufacturer Vitra comprises<br />
buildings by other cutting-edge architects,<br />
such as Tadao Ando, Zaha Hadid and<br />
Álvaro Siza. Exhibitions cover all aspects<br />
of interior design, starting in the 19th century<br />
and reaching towards contemporary<br />
furniture. Catch bus 55 from Claraplatz in<br />
Kleinbasel to the Vitra stop (30 minutes).<br />
Border checks are possible, so take your<br />
passport.<br />
Historisches Museum <strong>Basel</strong> HISTORY MUSEUM<br />
(www.hmb.ch; Barfüsserplatz; adult/child Sfr7/free,<br />
1st Sun of month free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) One of<br />
the most wide-ranging collections in the city,<br />
the off erings at the <strong>Basel</strong> History Mu seum<br />
include pre–Christian-era archaeological<br />
fi nds, a trove of religious objects from the cathedral<br />
and plenty of material documenting<br />
the city’s development. Centuries of applied<br />
arts, ceramics, weaponry and much more<br />
are housed in the former Barfüsserkirche<br />
(the Barefooted Ones Church, after the barefoot<br />
Franciscan friars who founded it in the<br />
14th century). Highlights include the fi ne<br />
16th-century choir stall and 15th-century<br />
tapestries depicting the dance of death.<br />
Further collections are spread across<br />
three other sites. The Musikmuseum (Im<br />
Lohnhof 9; h2-6pm Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) contains<br />
a veritable orchestra of instruments.<br />
The star item of the Haus zum Kirschgarten<br />
(Elisabethenstrasse 27-29; h10am-5pm Tue-<br />
Fri, 1-5pm Sat) is a collection of fi ne Meissen<br />
porcelain. Admission to each is the same as<br />
for the main museum, or you can purchase a<br />
combined ticket for Sfr14 for all three.<br />
The Kutschenmuseum (Brüglingen, St<br />
Jakob im Botanischen Garten; admission free)<br />
houses 19th- and 20th- century carriages,<br />
sleighs and dog carts.<br />
Münster CATHEDRAL<br />
(www.muensterbasel.ch; Münsterplatz; 10am-5pm<br />
Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, 11.30am-5pm Sun) This<br />
13th-century cathedral is a mix of Gothic<br />
exteriors and Romanesque interiors and<br />
was largely rebuilt after an earthquake in<br />
1356. The tomb of the Renaissance humanist<br />
Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466–1536), who<br />
lived in <strong>Basel</strong>, lies in the cathedral’s northern<br />
aisle. In the crypt are remnants of the<br />
cathedral’s 9th-century predecessor. You<br />
can climb the soaring Gothic towers (Sfr4)<br />
in groups of two or more. The two chunky,<br />
red-stone, late-Gothic cloisters date mostly<br />
to the 15th century but contain Romanesque<br />
vestiges.<br />
Kunstmuseum MUSEUM<br />
(Museum of Fine Arts; www.kunstmuseumbasel<br />
.ch; St Alban-Graben 16; adult/childt Sfr15/free;<br />
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) The city’s principle art<br />
museum concentrates on two periods: from<br />
1400 to 1600, and from 1800 to the present<br />
day. The smaller contemporary collection<br />
features Picassos and Rodins, and has a<br />
spread of works that include artists working<br />
today. That collection spills over into<br />
the nearby Museum für Gegenwartskunst<br />
(Museum of Contemporary Art; %061 206 62 62;<br />
www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch; St Alban-Rheinweg<br />
60; adult/child Sfr12/free; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun),<br />
which is above all the setting for temporary<br />
exhibitions of contemporary art. A<br />
combined ticket for the two museums costs<br />
Sfr25.<br />
Museum Jean Tinguely MUSEUM<br />
(www.tinguely.ch; Paul Sacher-Anlage 2; adult/<br />
child Sfr15/free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun) Built by<br />
leading Ticino architect Mario Botta, this<br />
museum dedicated to the often wacky<br />
artistic concoctions of Jean Tinguely<br />
resonates with playful mischievousness.<br />
Unfortunately, you’re not allowed to touch<br />
most of his ‘kinetic’ sculptures (see boxed<br />
text, opposite), which would rattle, shake<br />
or twirl if you did, but with springs, feathers<br />
and wheels radiating at every angle,<br />
they look appealingly like the work of a<br />
mad scientist. The collection includes his<br />
Leonardi da Vinci–style sketches for yet<br />
239<br />
BASEL SIGHTS & AARGAU SIGHTS BASEL
240<br />
BASEL & AARGAU BASEL<br />
more phantasmagorical thingamajigs and<br />
encompasses items spanning the length of<br />
his career. Catch bus 31 from Claraplatz.<br />
Antikenmuseum <strong>Basel</strong> MUSEUM<br />
(www.antikenmuseumbasel.ch, in German &<br />
French; St Alban-Graben 5; adult/child Sfr10/free;<br />
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Across the road from<br />
the Kunstmuseum, the Antiquities Museum<br />
contains the country’s most impressive<br />
collection of ancient artefacts, most<br />
of which encompass the centuries from<br />
the heyday of the Pharaohs in Egypt to<br />
Roman times.<br />
Papiermuseum MUSEUM<br />
(www.papiermuseum.ch; St Alban-Tal 37; adult/child<br />
Sfr12/free; h2-5pm Tue-Sun) Set in an old paper<br />
mill astride a medieval canal and complete<br />
with a functioning waterwheel, the<br />
Paper Museum evokes centuries past, when<br />
a dozen mills operated around here. This<br />
one produced paper for centuries and the<br />
museum explores that story. Just to the east<br />
stands a stretch of the old city wall.<br />
Puppenhausmuseum MUSEUM<br />
(www.puppenhausmuseum.ch; Steinenvorstadt 1;<br />
adult/child Sfr7/free; h10am-6pm) <strong>Basel</strong>’s Doll
House Museum attracts teddy-bear fans<br />
from all over the place. Indeed, the museum<br />
claims to have the world’s biggest collection<br />
of teddy bears and a total of 6000 objects<br />
displayed over four fl oors. There are doll<br />
houses galore too, many extraordinarily<br />
detailed and on a scale of 1:12.<br />
Schaulager GALLERY<br />
(www.schaulager.org; Ruchfeldstrasse 19, Münchenstein;<br />
adult/child Sfr10/free; h10am-6pm Tue,<br />
Wed & Fri, to 7pm Thu, 1-5pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun<br />
Apr-Sep) A kind of art bunker, the Schaulager<br />
was designed by Herzog & de Meuron.<br />
The sharply contoured, mostly white<br />
gallery is partly rendered in earth dug out<br />
from around the foundations. A huge video<br />
screen on the front facade gives you a foretaste<br />
of the rolling temporary exhibitions<br />
inside. Catch tram 11 from Barfüsserplatz or<br />
Marktplatz.<br />
2 Activities<br />
The tourist offi ce’s Experiencing <strong>Basel</strong>: Five<br />
Walks across the Old Town of <strong>Basel</strong> pamphlet<br />
lists fi ve walks across town. You can<br />
download it from www.basel.com or pick up<br />
an audio-visual version, the iGuide, at the<br />
tourist offi ce for Sfr15 for four hours or Sfr22<br />
for one day.<br />
Between mid-April and mid-October<br />
Basler Personenschiffahrt (%061 639 95<br />
00; www.baslerpersonenschiff fahrt.ch) operates<br />
city/harbour boat cruises (Sfr18; h2pm Tue-<br />
Sat), as well as a range of options for long<br />
trips to Rheinfelden, or brunch, jazz and<br />
dinner jaunts. Cruises depart from Schiffl<br />
ände, near Mittlere Brücke.<br />
Swimming in the Rhine river or sunbathing<br />
on its banks are popular summer pastimes.<br />
z Festivals & Events<br />
Fasnacht CARNIVAL<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> makes much of its huge Fasnacht<br />
spring carnival. The festival kicks off at<br />
exactly 4am on the Monday after Ash<br />
Wednesday with the Morgestraich, when<br />
streetlights are extinguished and a procession<br />
winds its way through the central<br />
district. Participants wear elaborate costumes<br />
and masks. The main parades are<br />
on the Monday and Wednesday afternoons,<br />
with Tuesday afternoon reserved for the<br />
children’s parade. It’s also worth visiting<br />
Liestal (Sfr5.30, 11-16 minutes by train from<br />
241<br />
BASEL ACTIVITIES<br />
& AARGAU ACTIVITIES<br />
BASEL
242<br />
BASEL & AARGAU BASEL<br />
EXPLORING ARCHITECTURAL BASEL<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> and its environs boast buildings designed by seven winners of architecture’s<br />
Pritzker Prize. Four of those winners – Frank Gehry, Álvaro Siza, Tadao Ando and Zaha<br />
Hadid – have works over the German border at the Vitra Design Museum (p239).<br />
Some works by Herzog & de Meuron are more central. The <strong>Basel</strong>-based duo is<br />
renowned for designing London’s Tate Modern and Beijing’s Olympic Stadium. In <strong>Basel</strong>,<br />
as well as the Schaulager (p241) and the stadium at St Jakob Park (p245), you’ll fi nd<br />
their wonderful lace-iron facade at Schützenmattstrasse 11 and the matt-black<br />
Zentralstellwerk at Münchensteinerstrasse 115 – surely the only railway goods depot<br />
to be an architectural icon! Right by the main train station (SBB Bahnhof) is their<br />
surprising glass Elsässer Tor.<br />
The renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano is responsible for the Fondation<br />
Beyeler (p238). Ticino architect Mario Botta hasn’t won the Pritzker as yet, but his Museum<br />
Jean Tinguely (p239) and the offi ces of the Bank for International<br />
Settlements at Aeschenplatz 1 are well worth checking out.<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>) on the Sunday evening before the<br />
Morgestraich for the Chienbäse, a dramatic<br />
fi re parade.<br />
Vogel Gryff TRADITIONAL<br />
This festival is held at the end of January as<br />
a symbolic way of chasing away winter from<br />
Kleinbasel. The three key fi gures – Vogel<br />
Gryff (the griffi n), Wilder Mann (the savage)<br />
and Leu (the lion) – dance to the beat<br />
of drums on a raft on the Rhine and later in<br />
the streets of Kleinbasel.<br />
Leading trade events include the MUBA<br />
(www.muba.ch, in German & French) Swiss industries<br />
fair every spring, the Herbstmesse<br />
(Autumn Fair; www.messen-maerkte.bs.ch) in October,<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>world: The Watch and Jewellery<br />
Show (www.baselworld.ch) in March and ART<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> (www.artbasel.ch), the contemporary art<br />
fair, in June.<br />
Other events include the Swiss Indoors<br />
(www.swissindoorsbasel.ch) tennis championship,<br />
held in <strong>Basel</strong> in late October and early<br />
November, and one of Switzerland’s biggest<br />
annual sporting events. <strong>Basel</strong>-born recordbreaker<br />
Roger Federer took his eighth<br />
home-town title (out of 12 played) there in<br />
2011. Jazz fans should keep an eye on <strong>Basel</strong>’s<br />
Offbeat Jazz Festival (www.jazzfestivalbasel<br />
.ch), held over two weeks in the second half<br />
of April.<br />
4 Sleeping<br />
Book ahead if coming for a convention or<br />
trade fair. There are no trade fairs in July<br />
or August, but some <strong>Basel</strong> hotels annoyingly<br />
close then. When you check in, remember to<br />
ask for your mobility ticket, which entitles<br />
you to free use of public transport.<br />
For a wide range of B&Bs in the area, visit<br />
www.bbbasel.ch.<br />
GROSSBASEL<br />
oAu Violon HOTEL $$<br />
(%061 269 87 11; www.au-violon.com; Im Lohnhof<br />
4; s Sfr123-185, d Sfr146-208; W) The doors<br />
are one of the few hints that quaint, atmospheric<br />
Au Violon was a prison from 1835 to<br />
1995. Most of the rooms are two cells rolled<br />
into one and either look onto a delightful<br />
cobblestone courtyard or have views of the<br />
Münster. Sitting on a leafy hilltop, it also has<br />
a well-respected restaurant.<br />
Der Teufelhof HOTEL $$$<br />
(%061 261 10 10; www.teufelhof.com; Leonhardsgraben<br />
49; s/d in Galeriehotel from Sfr151/251, r in<br />
Kunsthotel Sfr180-748; p) ‘The Devil’s Court’<br />
fuses two hotels into one. The Kunsthotel’s<br />
nine rooms have varying colour schemes,<br />
parquet fl oors and crisp white bedding. The<br />
larger Galeriehotel annexe, a former convent,<br />
is more about stylish everyday design,<br />
but the rooms vary considerably in size and<br />
atmosphere. An excellent restaurant caps it<br />
all off .<br />
S YHA <strong>Basel</strong> St Alban Youth<br />
Hostel HOSTEL $<br />
(%061 272 05 72; www.youthhostel.ch/basel; St-<br />
Alban Kirchrain 10; dm Sfr41.80, s 120, d Sfr133.60;<br />
W) A swank new youth hostel in a very<br />
pleasant part of town in a building that<br />
mixes old with contemporary design. It’s 15<br />
minutes on foot from the SBB Bahnhof and
a few minutes from the Rhine. Rooms have<br />
up to six beds.<br />
Les Trois Rois LUXURY HOTEL $$$<br />
(%061 260 50 50; www.lestroisrois.com; Blumenrain<br />
8; r from Sfr405; W) Without doubt the top<br />
address in town, The Three Kings off ers public<br />
areas and rooms that combine a dignifi<br />
ed elegance of times gone by (anyone for a<br />
waltz in the ballroom?) with key indispensable<br />
mod cons, such as the state-of-the-art<br />
Bang & Olufsen media centre in each room.<br />
Rates include access to the sauna amd gym,<br />
and a free minibar. Room rates drop around<br />
25% at weekends.<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> Backpack HOSTEL $<br />
(%061 333 00 37; http://baselbackpack.com; Dornacherstrasse<br />
192; dm from Sfr32, s/d Sfr80/100;<br />
i) Converted from a factory, this independent<br />
hostel has cheerful, colour-coded eightbed<br />
dorms and more sedate doubles and<br />
family rooms. It has a crisp feel, and for a<br />
little more you can get yourself a king-size<br />
bed. They rent out bicycles (Sfr20 a day) and<br />
off er internet, breakfast (Sfr8) and laundry<br />
services (for a fee).<br />
Hotel Stadthof HOTEL $<br />
(%061 261 87 11; www.stadthof.ch; Gerbergasse<br />
84; s/d Sfr80/130) You’ll need to book ahead<br />
at this spartan but decent central hotel. Set<br />
above a pizzeria on an Old Town square, the<br />
nine rooms are squeaky clean (with shared<br />
loo and shower) and the owners of this<br />
centuries-old building are very friendly.<br />
KLEINBASEL<br />
Hotel Krafft BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$<br />
(%061 690 91 30; www.hotelkraff t.ch; Rheingasse<br />
12; s/d from Sfr170/270, with river view Sfr200/320)<br />
The Kraff t appeals to design-savvy urbanites.<br />
Sculptural modern chandeliers dangle<br />
in the creaky-fl oored dining room overlooking<br />
the Rhine, and minimalist tea bars (all<br />
stainless steel, grey and Japanese teapots)<br />
adorn each landing of the spiral stairs.<br />
5 Eating<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>’s culinary culture benefi ts from the<br />
city’s location bang up against the French<br />
and German borders and its long history<br />
of immigration, especially from southern<br />
Europe.<br />
GROSSBASEL<br />
oSt Alban Stübli SWISS, EUROPEAN $$$<br />
(%061 272 54 15; www.st-alban-stuebli.ch; St Alban<br />
Vorstadt 74; mains Sfr40-55; hlunch & dinner Mon-<br />
Fri) Set in a quiet street, it looks like a typical<br />
cosy tavern but is an exquisite haven<br />
for gourmet cooking, local and French.<br />
One of many savoury success stories is the<br />
Perlhuhnbrust mit Speck an Salbeijus<br />
mit Saisongemüse und Risotto mit Oliven<br />
und Tomaten (guinea fowl breast with<br />
bacon and sage juice, vegetables and an<br />
olive and tomato risotto).<br />
Acqua ITALIAN $$<br />
(%061 564 66 66; www.acquabasilea.ch; Binningerstrasse<br />
14; mains Sfr18-45; hlunch & dinner Tue-<br />
Fri, dinner Sat) For a special experience, head<br />
to these converted waterworks beside a<br />
quiet stream. The atmosphere is glam postindustrial,<br />
with brown-leather banquettes,<br />
candles and chandeliers inside bare stone<br />
and concrete walls and fl oors. The food is<br />
Tuscan, and <strong>Basel</strong>’s beautiful people drink in<br />
the attached lounge bar.<br />
Restaurant Schlüsselzunft INTERNATIONAL $$$<br />
(%061 261 20 46; www.schluesselzunft.ch; Freie<br />
Strasse 25; mains Sfr36-58; hlunch & dinner, closed<br />
Sun Jun-Aug) Housed in a 15th-century guildhouse<br />
that had a neo-Renaissance remake<br />
early in the 20th century, this restaurant<br />
is an exercise in elegant dining. Tables are<br />
arranged over a vast area, including in a<br />
kind of internal courtyard with sweeping<br />
staircase. How about Thunfischsteak mit<br />
Orangenkruste auf Sesam-Algengemüse<br />
und Basmatireis (orange-crusted tuna<br />
steak with a sesame and algae vegetable<br />
accompaniment and Basmati rice)?<br />
Oliv MEDITERRANEAN $$<br />
(%061 283 03 03; www.restaurantoliv.ch; Bachlettenstrasse<br />
1; mains Sfr30-42; hlunch & dinner<br />
Tue-Fri, dinner Sat) Trendy Oliv leans towards<br />
fresh and varied Mediterranean cooking.<br />
You might be tempted by the aubergine<br />
ravioli or the Wolfsbarsch im Ofen<br />
gebacken auf Zucchetti-Artischockenragout<br />
an Zitronensauce (oven-baked sea bass<br />
with squash-artichoke ragout with lemon<br />
sauce). They have a set lunch for between<br />
Sfr25 and Sfr32 and in summer they open a<br />
pleasing little outdoor dining area.<br />
Charon SWISS, FRENCH $$<br />
(%061 261 99 80; Schützengraben 62; mains Sfr40-<br />
52; hlunch & dinner Mon-Fri May-Sep, Tue-Sun Oct-<br />
Apr) In what looks like someone’s home, this<br />
understated restaurant with art-nouveau<br />
decorative touches off ers carefully prepared<br />
dishes leaning slightly to French tastes. One<br />
of the house specialities is the Seezunge<br />
243<br />
BASEL EATING & AARGAU EATING BASEL
244<br />
BASEL & AARGAU BASEL<br />
gebraten mit Minikapern (a whole slab of<br />
sole baked with baby capers). Or tuck into<br />
a pistacchio sausage from Vaud on a bed of<br />
lentils.<br />
Zum Isaak EUROPEAN $$<br />
(%061 261 47 12; www.zum-isaak.ch; Münsterplatz<br />
16; dishes Sfr22-38; hlunch & dinner) With a sober<br />
but pleasant interior and a charming,<br />
leafy and cobblestone garden dining area<br />
out the back, this handy spot for the Münster<br />
off ers a brief but eclectic menu. You<br />
might plump for the Entenbrust, strips of<br />
duck breast dripping in a honey and balsamic<br />
sauce and served with rosemary-speckled<br />
oven potatoes.<br />
KLEINBASEL<br />
Parterre VEGETARIAN $$<br />
(%061 695 89 98; www.parterre.net; Klybeckstrasse<br />
1b; mains Sfr19-35; h10am-11pm Mon-Wed, to<br />
midnight Thu-Sat) An eclectic mix of dishes,<br />
with a hefty vegetarian contingent, stud<br />
the menu in this alternative, post-industrial<br />
canteen-style place overlooking the Kaserne<br />
Park. In summer, grab a table outside!<br />
6 Drinking<br />
Steinenvorstadt and Barfüsserplatz teem<br />
with teens and 20-somethings on the weekends.<br />
A more interesting area is Kleinbasel,<br />
around Rheingasse and Utengasse. There is<br />
a slight air of grunge, quite a few watering<br />
holes and something of a red-light zone to<br />
lend it edge.<br />
GROSSBASEL<br />
Zum Roten Engel BAR, CAFE<br />
(%061 261 20 08; Andreasplatz 15; h9ammidnight<br />
Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun) This studentfi<br />
lled venue, spilling onto an irresistible, tiny<br />
cobblestone square, is great for a latte and<br />
snacks by day and a glass of wine or three in<br />
the evening. It’s a temperate way to start the<br />
ONE-STOP, TRI-<br />
NATIONAL CULTURE PASS<br />
If you’re planning on travelling<br />
extensively from <strong>Basel</strong> through Alsace<br />
in France and as far north as Mannheim<br />
in Germany, consider investing in a<br />
Museumspass, which gives admission<br />
to 190 museums over one year. The<br />
pass for one adult costs Sfr118 (or €73)<br />
and includes up to fi ve children under<br />
18 years of age.<br />
night. They do a relaxed brunch from 11am<br />
to 4pm on Sundays (Sfr18.80).<br />
Cargo Bar BAR<br />
(%061 321 00 72; www.cargobar.ch; St Johanns<br />
Rheinweg 46; h4pm-late) A nice halfway house<br />
between cool and alternative, located in a<br />
tucked-away spot on the river. Art installations,<br />
live gigs, video shows and DJ performances<br />
pepper this art bar’s busy calendar.<br />
Gigs, ranging from jazz through folk to<br />
electro, generally start at 9pm. In summer,<br />
they scatter a few tables out along the<br />
riverside street.<br />
Campari Bar BAR<br />
(%061 272 83 83; www.restaurant-kunsthalle.ch;<br />
Steinenberg 7; h8am-late) A soothing spot for<br />
an upscale cocktail moment. Especially in<br />
warmer weather, the terrace is perfect for a<br />
sip, natter and a listen to the water play of<br />
the Tinguely Fountain.<br />
Atlantis BAR<br />
(%061 228 96 96; www.atlan-tis.ch; Klosterberg<br />
13; h5pm-late Tue-Sat) Leather-topped<br />
stools are strung behind the long, curving<br />
and – on DJ weekend nights – packed bar.<br />
Themes change constantly and range from<br />
funk to ’90s. Maybe this is why it attracts a<br />
mostly 30-something crowd. It has a<br />
summer rooftop terrace and does lunch<br />
Monday to Friday.<br />
KLEINBASEL<br />
oConsum BAR<br />
(%061 690 91 35; Rheingasse 19; h5pm-midnight)<br />
With its chilled music, exquisite tiled fl oor,<br />
timber furniture and breezy feel, this is a<br />
marvellous spot to take your wine tastebuds<br />
around the world. They will open one of more<br />
than 100 bottles for you if you order just three<br />
decilitres (about three glasses). Accompany<br />
with tasty cheese and cold meat platters.<br />
Bar Rouge BAR<br />
(%061 361 30 21; www.barrouge.ch; Level 31, Messeplatz<br />
10; h5pm-late) This plush red bar, with<br />
panoramic views from the 31st fl oor of the<br />
ugly glass Messeturm (trade fair tower), is<br />
the city’s most memorable. Hipsters, and a<br />
few suits early on weekday evenings, come to<br />
appreciate the regular DJs and events. There’s<br />
jazz on Mondays, ladies’ night on Thursdays<br />
and a disco versus salsa duel on Saturdays.<br />
Hirscheneck BAR<br />
(%061 692 73 33; Lindenberg 23; h9am-midnight<br />
Sun-Thu, 10am-2am Fri & Sat) A relaxed, grungy,
ACID HOUSE<br />
Home to the Roche and Novartis<br />
companies, the <strong>Basel</strong> region is the<br />
epicentre of Switzerland’s multibillionfranc<br />
pharmaceutical industry.<br />
In 1943 a chemist at the Sandoz<br />
company, Albert Hofmann (1906–<br />
2008), accidentally absorbed an<br />
experimental compound through the<br />
skin of his fi ngertips while searching for<br />
a migraine cure and (oops!) took the<br />
world’s fi rst ‘acid trip’.<br />
The lysergic acid diethylamide (LSD)<br />
provoked a series of psychedelic<br />
hallucinations. Hofmann liked it so<br />
much, he tried it again.<br />
Later, LSD was taken up by writers<br />
and artists, such as Aldous Huxley, who<br />
saw it as a creative force. Its mindbending<br />
properties also made it a<br />
favourite with the ‘far out’ fl ower-power<br />
generation of the 1960s, around which<br />
time it was outlawed in most countries.<br />
almost knockabout place with an urban vibe<br />
(try to spot someone without piercings), this<br />
corner bar has tables on the footpath and<br />
regular gigs and DJs – it would be right at<br />
home in the eastern half of Berlin.<br />
Kaserne BAR<br />
(www.kaserne-basel.ch; Klybeckstrasse 1b) Opening<br />
times depend on what’s on at this busy<br />
location for alternative theatre as well as<br />
drinking and dancing.<br />
3 Entertainment<br />
For a comprehensive rundown on what’s<br />
happening in town, pick up the monthly<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> Live brochure from the tourist offi ce.<br />
The Stadtcasino (www.stadtcasino.ch) and<br />
other big venues about town like the Messe<br />
(trade fair) buildings are often used to host<br />
big musical acts.<br />
Live Music<br />
The <strong>Basel</strong> Symphony Orchestra (www<br />
.sinfonieorchesterbasel.ch) and <strong>Basel</strong> Chamber<br />
Orchestra (www.kammerorchesterbasel.ch)<br />
both play at the Stadtcasino.<br />
oBird’s Eye Jazz Club JAZZ<br />
(%061 263 33 41; www.birdseye.ch; Kohlenberg<br />
20; h8-11.30pm Tue-Sat Sep-May, Wed-Sat Jun-<br />
Aug) This is among Europe’s top jazz dens,<br />
attracting local and headline foreign acts.<br />
Concerts start most evenings at 8.30pm.<br />
Sudhaus Warteck MUSIC<br />
(%061 681 44 10; www.sudhaus.ch; Burgweg 15;<br />
hAug-May) Off ers a colourful cultural calendar,<br />
with anything from African percussion<br />
to ’50s dance tunes on the menu.<br />
Nightclubs<br />
Die Kuppel CLUB<br />
(%061 564 66 00; www.kuppel.ch, in German;<br />
Binningerstrasse 14; hfrom 9pm Tue, 11pm Thu &<br />
10pm Fri & Sat) This is an atmospheric wooden<br />
dome, with a dance fl oor and cocktail bar,<br />
located in a secluded park. Salsa, soul, house<br />
and ’70s and ‘80s music are regularly on the<br />
bill. The closing time is late and fl exible. The<br />
place is set to get a major overhaul.<br />
Sport<br />
F C <strong>Basel</strong> SPECTATOR SPORT<br />
(www.fcb.ch) <strong>Basel</strong> is home to one of Switzerland’s<br />
top football teams, which plays at St<br />
Jakob Park, 2km east of the main train<br />
station (SBB Bahnhof). Take tram 14 from<br />
Barfüsserplatz or Marktplatz.<br />
7 Shopping<br />
The area around Marktplatz and Barfüsserplatz<br />
teems with shops, selling everything<br />
from fashion to fi ne foods.<br />
Long, pedestrian-only Freie Strasse,<br />
which runs southeast from Marktplatz, is<br />
lined with stores of all persuasions.<br />
Spalenberg, a lovely climbing lane to<br />
explore in its own right, is home to a line-up<br />
of intriguing boutiques. Weihnachtshaus<br />
Johann Wanner (%061 261 48 26; www<br />
.johannwanner.ch; Spalenberg 14) is a wellknown<br />
Christmas store – pick up festive<br />
decorations year-round.<br />
If you’re in <strong>Basel</strong> in the run-up to Christmas,<br />
you’ll sample plenty of the season’s<br />
cheer at the Christmas markets set up in<br />
Barfüsserplatz and Marktplatz. Grab some<br />
glühwein and meander.<br />
Marktplatz hosts a food market on the<br />
weekends year-round.<br />
8 Information<br />
Discount Card<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>Card (24/48/72hr from Sfr20/27/35)<br />
off ers entry to nine museums (permanent<br />
collections only) and <strong>Basel</strong> Zoo (www.zoobasel<br />
.ch, in German), plus guided tours and ferry<br />
rides. If you don’t have a mobility ticket<br />
(available from your hotel), consider the 24-hour<br />
245<br />
BASEL ENTERTAINMENT<br />
& AARGAU ENTERTAINMENT<br />
BASEL
246<br />
BASEL & AARGAU AUGUSTA RAURICA<br />
version for Sfr25, which includes unlimited free<br />
public transport.<br />
Medical Services<br />
Universitätsspital (%061 265 25 25; www<br />
.unispital-basel.ch; Petersgraben 4)<br />
Post<br />
Main post office (Rüdengasse 1; h7.30am-<br />
6.30pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat)<br />
Tourist Information<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> Tourismus (%061 268 68 68; www<br />
.basel.com) SBB Bahnhof (Bahnhof; h8.30am-<br />
6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, to 3pm Sun &<br />
holidays); Stadtcasino (Steinenberg 14; h9am-<br />
6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun &<br />
holidays) The Stadtcasino branch organises twohour<br />
English-language walking tours of the city<br />
centre (adult/child Sfr15/7.50), usually starting<br />
at 2.30pm Monday to Saturday May through<br />
October, and on Saturdays the rest of the year.<br />
Websites<br />
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com<br />
/switzerland/basel)<br />
8 Getting There & Away<br />
Air<br />
EuroAirport (%061 325 31 11; www.euroairport<br />
.com) serves <strong>Basel</strong> (as well as Mulhouse in<br />
France and Freiburg in Germany). Located 5km<br />
north in France, it has fl ights to and from a host<br />
of European cities.<br />
Boat<br />
An enjoyable, if slow, way to travel to/from <strong>Basel</strong> is<br />
by boat along the Rhine. The main landing stage is<br />
between Johanniterbrücke and Dreirosenbrücke.<br />
Viking River Cruises (www.vikingrivers.com)<br />
runs an eight-day trip from Amsterdam starting<br />
from around UK£1195.<br />
Car & Motorcycle<br />
The A35 freeway heads down from Strasbourg<br />
and passes by EuroAirport, and the A5 hugs the<br />
German side of the Rhine.<br />
Train<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> has two main train stations: the Swiss/<br />
French train station SBB Bahnhof, in the city’s<br />
south, and the German train station BBF<br />
(Badischer) Bahnhof, in the north.<br />
Two trains an hour run from SBB Bahnhof via<br />
Olten to Geneva (Sfr70, 2¾ hours). As many as<br />
seven, mostly direct, leave every hour for Zürich<br />
(Sfr31, 55 minutes to 1¼ hours).<br />
8 Getting Around<br />
Buses run every 20 to 30 minutes from 5am to<br />
around 11.30pm between the airport and SBB<br />
Bahnhof (Sfr3.80, 20 minutes). The trip by taxi<br />
(%061 325 27 00, 061 444 44 44) costs around<br />
Sfr40.<br />
If you’re not staying in a hotel in town, tickets<br />
for buses and trams cost Sfr2, Sf3.20 and<br />
Sfr8.50 for up to four stops, the central zone and<br />
a day pass respectively.<br />
Small ferries cross the Rhine at four points<br />
(Sfr1.60, day passes not valid) constantly from<br />
about 9am to 5pm or dusk, whichever comes<br />
sooner.<br />
AROUND BASEL<br />
Augusta Raurica<br />
By the Rhine, these Roman ruins (%061<br />
816 22 22; www.augustaraurica.ch; admission<br />
free; h10am-5pm) are Switzerland’s largest.<br />
They’re the last remnants of a colony<br />
founded in 43 BC, the population of which<br />
grew to 20,000 by the 2nd century AD.<br />
Today, restored features include an<br />
open-air theatre and several temples.<br />
There’s also a Römermuseum (Roman<br />
Museum; Giebenacherstrasse 17; adult/reduced<br />
Sfr7/5; h1-5pm Mon, from 10am Tue-Sun), in the<br />
Kaiseraugst, which features an authentic<br />
Roman house among its exhibits.<br />
The train from <strong>Basel</strong> to Kaiseraugst takes<br />
11 minutes (Sfr5.30); it’s then a 10-minute<br />
walk to the site.<br />
AARGAU CANTON<br />
Stretching between Zürich to the east and<br />
the canton of <strong>Basel</strong> Land to the west, <strong>Aargau</strong><br />
is the homeland of the Habsburgs, the clan<br />
that eventually came to rule over the Austro-<br />
Hungarian Empire but lost all its terri tories<br />
here to the independent-minded Swiss.<br />
Pretty towns and craggy castles dot its main<br />
waterway, the Aare river.<br />
Rheinfelden<br />
POP 11,200 / ELEV 285M<br />
Home to Feldschlösschen beer, Rheinfelden,<br />
which is just inside <strong>Aargau</strong> canton<br />
on the south bank of the Rhine, 24km east of<br />
<strong>Basel</strong>, has a pretty, semi-circular Altstadt<br />
(Old Town). Several medieval city gates,<br />
defensive towers and parts of the old<br />
walls still stand. They say the triangular<br />
Messerturm (Knife Tower) is so named<br />
because it once contained a shaft lined
with knives. Anyone thrown in would be<br />
sliced to bits.<br />
The pedestrianised main street, Marktgasse,<br />
is lined with shops, eateries and<br />
the occasional tavern. At its western end,<br />
an early 20th-century bridge leads to the<br />
Inseli, a once-fortifi ed island that lies in<br />
the middle of the Rhine and forms a part<br />
of German Rheinfelden on the north bank.<br />
Bring your passport.<br />
The Feldschlösschen brewery (%084<br />
812 50 00; www.feldschloesschen.ch; Theophil-<br />
Roniger Strasse; tours Sfr12) is housed in a<br />
19th-century building that could be a<br />
rough imitation of Hampton Court, only<br />
with its own railway and smelling like,<br />
well, a brewery. Its name means ‘little<br />
castle in the fi eld’ – a pretty accurate tag.<br />
Two-hour tours (in German) with beer<br />
tastings theoretically take place twice a<br />
day Monday to Friday and on alternate<br />
Saturdays. You are supposed to book but<br />
you might get on the list just by wandering<br />
by in the morning. The brewery is a<br />
10-minute walk from the train station.<br />
Rheinfelden is a short train ride from<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> (Sfr7.40, 11 to 17 minutes).<br />
Baden<br />
POP 17,500 / ELEV 388M<br />
People have been coming to Baden since<br />
Roman times for its mineral baths. Its<br />
health-resort hotels, bunched together at a<br />
bend in the river, could come straight from<br />
Thomas Mann’s The Magic Mountain.<br />
1 Sights & Activities<br />
Sulphure Springs BATHS<br />
Baden has 19 mineral-rich springs, which<br />
are believed to be helpful in treating<br />
rheumatic, respiratory, cardiovascular and<br />
even some neurological disorders. Head<br />
for the public ThermalBaden (%056 203<br />
91 12; www.thermalbaden.ch; Kurplatz 1; adult/<br />
child Sfr16/10; h7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm<br />
Sat & Sun), where you can opt for sauna and<br />
massage add-ons. A major revamp of the<br />
MOVING ON?<br />
For tips, recommendations and reviews,<br />
head to http://shop.lonelyplanet.com<br />
to purchase a downloadable PDF of the<br />
Germany chapter from Lonely Planet’s<br />
Western Europe guide.<br />
facility, designed by architect Mario Botta,<br />
is planned for the coming years.<br />
Some of the spa hotels allow nonguests<br />
into their bathing facilities. Various spas and<br />
wellness centres are also available – count<br />
on a minimum of around Sfr40 for basic<br />
facilities.<br />
Altstadt NEIGHBOURHOOD<br />
The Old Town is adorned by a fetching<br />
covered timber bridge, or Holzbrücke,<br />
cobbled lanes and an assortment of stepgabled<br />
houses. Climb the hundreds of stairs<br />
near the Stadtturm (city tower) for a bird’seye<br />
view from the ruined hilltop castle.<br />
Stiftung Langmatt ART MUSEUM<br />
(%056 200 86 70; www.langmatt.ch; Römerstrasse<br />
30; adult/child Sfr12/free; h2-5pm Tue-<br />
Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov) West of the<br />
spas, the Langmatt Foundation houses a<br />
cornucopia of French Impressionist art in<br />
a stately home.<br />
4 Sleeping & Eating<br />
S YHA Hostel HOSTEL $<br />
(%056 221 67 36; www.youthhostel.ch/baden;<br />
Kanalstrasse 7; dm Sfr40, s/d Sfr92/105; hclosed<br />
mid-Dec–mid-Mar; pi) One of Switzerland’s<br />
best-looking hostels, this has grey slate<br />
fl oors, earth-red walls and top-quality<br />
materials. Members of Hostelling International<br />
pay about 20% less. Walk from<br />
the train station to the Old Town, cross the<br />
Limmat river at Holzbrücke and take the<br />
fi rst right into Kanalstrasse to fi nd it.<br />
Atrium-Hotel Blume HOTEL $$<br />
(%056 200 02 00; www.blume-baden.ch; Kurplatz<br />
4; s Sfr170-200, d Sfr220-330; W) An atmospheric<br />
old place featuring a wonderful inner<br />
courtyard with a fountain and plants; it also<br />
has a small thermal pool. Rooms give on<br />
to inner galleries that, on the 1st fl oor, are<br />
crammed with breakfast tables and sometimes<br />
rowdy diners. No matter, they usually<br />
fi nish dessert by 8pm!<br />
Roter Turm MODERN EUROPEAN $$<br />
(%056 222 85 25; www.restaurant-roterturm.ch;<br />
Rathausgasse 5; mains Sfr24-39; h9am-midnight<br />
Mon-Sat) A hip diner and bar in the heart of<br />
the Old Town, this Slow Food member off ers<br />
a mix of modern European, mainly Italian,<br />
cuisine alongside more traditional dishes.<br />
Gather in the inner courtyard and look out<br />
for temporary art exhibitions.<br />
247<br />
AARGAU BASEL & CANTON AARGAU SIGHTS BADEN & ACTIVITIES
248 6 Drinking<br />
Baden is a quiet town, but a few bars bring<br />
some weekend life to the centre.<br />
BASEL & AARGAU SOUTHWEST ALONG THE AARE<br />
UnvermeidBAR BAR<br />
(%056 200 84 84; Rathausgasse 22; h10am-late<br />
Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun) A relaxing place to sip wine<br />
is the Bohemian UnvermeidBAR (a play on<br />
words in which BAR is part of the word for<br />
inevitable), with its grand piano, chandelier,<br />
giant mirrors and disturbing artwork.<br />
8 Information<br />
Tourist offi ce (%056 200 87 87; www.baden.ch;<br />
Oberer Bahnhofplatz 1; hnoon-6.30pm Mon, 9am-<br />
6.30pm Tue-Fri, to 4pm Sat). Just opposite the<br />
train station.<br />
8 Getting There & Away<br />
Baden is 16 minutes away from Zürich by<br />
train (Sfr10.40). It is also within Zürich’s<br />
S-Bahn network (lines S6 and S12, Sfr4.10,<br />
30 minutes).<br />
Southwest along the Aare<br />
The Aare is the longest river located<br />
entirely in Switzerland. This tributary of the<br />
Rhine rises in glaciers in the Bernese Alps<br />
and numerous captivating spots dot its way<br />
through <strong>Aargau</strong>.<br />
BRUGG & WINDISCH<br />
POP 15,800 / ELEV 351M<br />
Ten minutes west of Baden by train lies the<br />
Habsburg settlement of Brugg, created as a<br />
toll stop on the Aare. Hauptstrasse (Main<br />
St), lined by step-gabled houses and pretty<br />
facades, winds down to the one-time toll<br />
bridge, still guarded by the 13th-century<br />
stone Schwarzer Turm (Black Tower). The<br />
tower was in use as a prison until 1951.<br />
Attached at the hip to Brugg is Windisch,<br />
which started life as Roman Vindonissa.<br />
Sparse remnants of the one-time Roman<br />
garrison town include the foundations of<br />
the east gate, along the road leading out of<br />
town towards Baden. The gate stands just<br />
in front of what was a Franciscan monastery,<br />
founded by the Habsburgs in 1311. The<br />
pleasant three-sided cloister and adjacent<br />
Gothic church are now part of a psychiatric<br />
institution, set in fi elds in which you are at<br />
liberty to wander.<br />
You can get to Brugg by regional train or<br />
the S12 line of the Zürich S-Bahn network<br />
(Sfr4.10).<br />
HABSBURG<br />
A vertical stone fortress that would not be<br />
out of place in Arthurian legend or a Monty<br />
Python sketch, the Habsburg castle was<br />
built in 1020 and gave its name to a house<br />
that would one day become one of Europe’s<br />
greatest ruling dynasties.<br />
As in Monty Python’s version of Camelot,<br />
however, the Habsburgs soon tired of this<br />
particular fortress castle (in spite of the<br />
views over broad green fi elds and nearby<br />
villages) and it changed hands many times<br />
before winding up property of <strong>Aargau</strong> canton<br />
in 1804. It houses administrative offi ces,<br />
a small display on Habsburg history and<br />
a hearty restaurant (%056 441 16 73; www<br />
.schlosshabsburg.ch; mains Sfr30-55; h9ammidnight<br />
Tue-Sun May-Sep, Wed-Sun Oct-Apr).<br />
Buses run every two hours from Brugg<br />
train station to Habsburg village (Sfr4, 11<br />
minutes), from where it’s a 10-minute uphill<br />
walk to the fortress.<br />
WILDEGG<br />
Another tall beauty of a castle awaits<br />
5.5km south of Habsburg atop a green hill<br />
at Schloss Wildegg (%062 887 08 30; adult/<br />
child Sfr10/2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct).<br />
The location is lovely and inside the castle<br />
is a display on centuries of Swiss history,<br />
as seen through the archives and possessions<br />
of the Effi nger clan, who took over<br />
the castle in 1483.<br />
Trains run from Brugg to Wildegg<br />
(Sfr5.80, fi ve to 10 minutes).<br />
LENZBURG<br />
POP 8000 / ELEV 406M<br />
From Lenzburg train station, a 30-minute<br />
stroll takes you through the once-medieval<br />
village, whose fi ne houses were rebuilt in a<br />
low-key baroque fashion after a fi re in the<br />
18th century, and on up a leafy hill path to<br />
the Kyburg clan’s Schloss Lenzburg (%062<br />
888 48 40; www.schloss-lenzburg.ch; adult/child<br />
Sfr12/6, gardens only Sfr4/2; h10am-5pm Tue-<br />
Sun Apr-Oct). Inside the castle’s main tower<br />
and one-time dungeon are several fl oors of<br />
period furniture, ranging from medieval<br />
times to the 19th century.<br />
Direct trains from Baden (via Brugg) run<br />
hourly to Lenzburg train station (Sfr9.60, 25<br />
minutes), from where there are occasional<br />
buses to the village and castle.<br />
WASSERSCHLOSS HALLWYL<br />
About 20km south of Lenzburg is one of<br />
the prettiest castles (%062 767 60 10; www<br />
.schlosshallwyl.ch; adult/child Sfr12/6; h10am-
CASTLE PASS<br />
A single ticket for castle fanatics<br />
includes the castles of Hallwyl, Lenzburg<br />
and Wildegg and costs Sfr27 for<br />
adults and Sfr11 for children.<br />
5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) in northern Switzerland.<br />
This ‘Water Castle’ is so named because it<br />
is built in the middle of a river – a natural<br />
moat. It is, in fact, two modest castles joined<br />
by a bridge.<br />
Walking paths wind out southwards towards<br />
Hallwilersee, a peaceful lake that can<br />
be criss-crossed by ferry.<br />
A half-hourly S-Bahn (running between<br />
Lucerne and Lenzburg) calls in at Boniswil<br />
(Sfr5.80, 22 minutes from Lenzburg), from<br />
where it’s a 1km walk east to the castle on<br />
the way to Seengen.<br />
AARAU<br />
POP 15,800 / ELEV 383M<br />
The cantonal capital is the charming result<br />
of medieval town planning draped on a<br />
rising spur of land overlooking the broad<br />
fl ow of the Aare river. Founded by the<br />
Kyburgs, the city passed for a time under<br />
Habsburg rule before being overrun<br />
by Bern canton in 1415. In March 1798,<br />
occupy ing French revolutionary authorities<br />
declared Aarau capital of the Swiss<br />
republic. This moment of glory was shortlived,<br />
as the republican government moved<br />
to Lucerne in September.<br />
1 Sights<br />
Altstadt NEIGHBOURHOOD<br />
Built on a rising spur that, at its highest end<br />
(where the 15th-century church is), juts high<br />
above the Aare river, the walled Old Town<br />
of Aarau is irresistible. Its grid of streets is<br />
lined with gracious, centuries-old buildings,<br />
all quite diff erent and diverting. More than<br />
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd<br />
70 buildings have in common grand roofs<br />
hanging out well beyond the facades over<br />
the streets, their timber undersides gaily<br />
decorated.<br />
<strong>Aargau</strong>er Kunsthaus ART MUSEUM<br />
(%062 835 23 30; www.aargauerkunsthaus.ch;<br />
<strong>Aargau</strong>erplatz; adult/child Sfr15/free; h10am-<br />
5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu) For a dose<br />
of centuries of Swiss art and the occasional<br />
temporary exhibition, call by <strong>Aargau</strong>’s home<br />
to the fi ne arts, about 250m south of the Old<br />
Town along Vordere Vorstadt and housed in<br />
a striking building that was renovated by<br />
Herzog & de Meuron in 2003.<br />
4 Sleeping & Eating<br />
You’ll fi nd plenty of restaurants and bars in<br />
the medieval core, but Aarau’s three hotels<br />
lie just outside.<br />
Gasthof zum Schützen HOTEL $$<br />
(%062 823 01 24; www.gasthofschuetzen.ch;<br />
Schachenallee 39; s/d Sfr118/184) The cheapest<br />
option in town, these friendly and functional<br />
digs are modern and aimed in part at<br />
the business crowd. Rooms are spotless and<br />
mostly spacious.<br />
Restaurant Halde 20 SWISS, ITALIAN $$<br />
(%062 823 45 65; www.halde20.ch; Halde 20;<br />
mains Sfr25-65; hlunch Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-<br />
Fri, dinner Sat) Down from the main bustle,<br />
but still inside the Old Town, is this homey<br />
Swiss-Italian mix, where you can try anything<br />
from good pasta to a juicy veal steak<br />
with chanterelles in a whisky sauce.<br />
8 Information<br />
<strong>Aargau</strong> Tourismus (%062 823 00 73; www<br />
.aargautourismus.ch; Hintere Vorstadt 5;<br />
h9am-noon & 1-5pm)<br />
8 Getting There & Away<br />
There are direct trains from Baden (Sfr13.40, 25<br />
to 35 minutes, three or four times an hour) and<br />
<strong>Basel</strong> (Sfr20.20, 35 minutes, hourly).<br />
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249<br />
AARGAU BASEL & CANTON AARGAU 8 8SOUTHWEST<br />
ALONG THE AARE