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20<br />

the other riviera<br />

Bormida <strong>di</strong> Spigno Valley<br />

Piedmontese Liguria<br />

The Bormida <strong>di</strong> Spigno Valley is a piece of Liguria with<br />

a Piedmontese flavour. This may be due to its history,<br />

marked by feudal struggles and rulers who were sometimes<br />

local (the Del Carretto Marquises) and sometimes from<br />

Monferrato and the House of Savoy; or perhaps to the<br />

river that flows northwards, towards the Po...<br />

In any case, the <strong>di</strong>alects spoken here have a<br />

Piedmontese ring and the excellent local<br />

truffles “smell of the sea”.<br />

ALTARE<br />

An Art Nouveau town<br />

The town of Altare is set amid the green surroun<strong>di</strong>ngs of the<br />

Colle <strong>di</strong> Ca<strong>di</strong>bona, tra<strong>di</strong>tionally the transition point between<br />

the Alps and the Apennines. Its origins are me<strong>di</strong>eval and it<br />

once belonged to the Del Carretto family. It was subsequently<br />

ruled over by the Marquises of Monferrato, who introduced<br />

the craft of glassmaking. Today it is a pretty little town with<br />

2300 inhabitants, set in the lush greenery of the Apennines<br />

and embellished with exuberant Art Nouveau architecture<br />

(dating from the early twentieth century), in the form<br />

of palaces, villas and industrial buil<strong>di</strong>ngs.<br />

The <strong>Savona</strong> Forest<br />

Altare is in the centre of the huge, thickly wooded<br />

<strong>Savona</strong> Forest, which has supplied the area with wood<br />

and clean air for thousands of years. This endless<br />

green expanse is ideal for walking and mountain biking.<br />

Beech, durmast, Turkey oak and chestnut trees grow in<br />

the forest, alongside ferns, butcher’s broom, juniper, holly<br />

and broom. Foxes, hares, squirrels, herons and slow, silentflying<br />

birds of prey can all be seen with a little luck.<br />

The Tecci Fortress stands on the Colle <strong>di</strong> Ca<strong>di</strong>bona and was<br />

built to defend the valley.<br />

SAVONA<br />

Sand, fire and<br />

glass<br />

Sand heated in the fire, blown<br />

and worked into glass: this<br />

art has earned Altare’s<br />

master glassmakers world<br />

renown since the<br />

fifteenth century.<br />

In 1495 the<br />

University of<br />

Glass was<br />

founded in the<br />

town. It laid down<br />

the statutes that<br />

regulated the art.<br />

The finest production<br />

of Altare’s master<br />

glassmakers is housed in the<br />

Museo del Vetro (Glass<br />

Museum), in the splen<strong>di</strong>d Art<br />

Nouveau setting of Villa Rosa.<br />

Antique pieces can be seen<br />

in the museum, while modern<br />

examples can be bought from<br />

the master glassmakers who<br />

still practise their art in the<br />

town: Raffaello and<br />

Costantino Bormioli and<br />

Vanessa Cavallaro.

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