BLACKBOOK THE PERIPATETIC GOURMET CHICAGO’S RESTAURANT ROW As boîtes on the ever-changing Randolph Street in the city’s West Loop neighbourhood come and go, here’s the ultimate guide to eating and drinking the corridor now MINOR DETOURS The blocks just north and south of West Randolph Street are also packed with great bites For years in south Chicago, West Randolph Street and the West Loop, the district that coils around the industrial thoroughfare, were a veritable wasteland of warehouses and abandoned industry. When chef Paul Kahan opened Blackbird in 1997 and then Avec in 2003, he brought fine dining to the area like manna in the desert. But it was a good seven years later, when WEST RANDOLPH STREET Stephanie Izard’s Girl and the Goat opened in 2010, that Randolph Street really exploded. Now Chicagoans refer to it as Restaurant Row, with its lineup of culinary world heavy hitters making it the city’s ultimate dining destination – one that never seems to stop evolving and attracting talent. Why not start on the west end of the street and feast all the way east? ELIZABETH TULIPANA TRIED-AND-TRUE VERA The A+ Spanish wine and tapas bar has the city’s best sherry list. 1023 W Lake St; verachicago.com COMING SOON CHRIS PANDEL’S STEAK SPOT Next year the well-known chef is expected to open a carnivore-centric spot in the same building as Chicago’s forthcoming Google headquarters. 1000 W Fulton St NEW NEW STAR CHEF TRIED-AND-TRUE WEST LOOP SALUMI Insiders know to BYOB and grab a picnic bench out front at this house of Italian-style charcuterie. Bring cheese and crackers; owner Greg Laketek will plate them alongside his salumi. No 1111; westloopsalumi.com STAR CHEF LITTLE GOAT Stephanie Izard’s diner is a late-night favourite. Dishes range from the Smoked Pork & Toffee Crunch milkshake to the Kimchee & Bacon & Eggs & Pancakes Asian-Style Breakfast Tasty Thing. No. 820; littlegoatchicago.com THE SALSA TRUCK Basically on West Randolph (it’s parked in The Garage, just around the corner on Aberdeen Street), the taco truck is open during weekdays and closes when food sells out. At 116 N Aberdeen St; thesalsatruck.com GRAHAM ELLIOT BISTRO There’s no liquid nitrogen here. Unlike Elliot’s shuttered namesake flagship, the bistro is less gastronomic and more grilling and roasting – think smoked sirloin and roasted chicken. No 841; gebistro.com The dining room at Nellcôte MAUDE’S LIQUOR BAR Come for the French fare (try the crème brûlée, with the topping burnt with an iron, not a blowtorch), but stay for the bar’s shaken, stirred, sparkling and smashed cocktails. No 840; maudesliquorbar.com TRIED-AND-TRUE NELLCÔTE It specialises in awesome cocktails and Europeaninspired small plates, but the devil here is in the details: crystal chandeliers, Parisian herringbone wood floors, a white marble bar. It’s the grandest restaurant on Randolph. No 833; nellcoterestaurant.com STAR CHEF AVIARY A stylish mixology lounge from chef Grant Achatz and partner Nick Kokonas of Alinea (1723 N Halsted; alinea restaurant. com). Try the Ginger cocktail. 955 W Fulton Market; theaviary.com STAR CHEF NEXT Also by Achatz and Kokonas, Next changes its ten-course prix fixe menu three times a year. In lieu of reservations, diners buy tickets, which cover the price of the meal and drinks; ticket prices fluctuate depending on the menu. 953 W Fulton Market; next restaurant.com NEW MOMOTARO Boka Restaurant Group (of The Goat empire) opened a Japanese sushi spot last month. 820 W Lake St; bokagrp.com PHOTO POTLUCK CREATIVE 40 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
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