cottonclassics_2017_cn

Certifications/Labels/Textile Associations/Initiatives of
PRODUCT-RELATED LABELS AND CERTIFICATIONS
EN ISO 20471:
Warning protection standard to certificate clothing, worn at work in
situations at high risk to be overlooked. The articles are divided into three
different categories, according to the permitted driving speeds (category
1: (≤ 30km/h (Klasse 1), 31-60km/h (Klasse 2), > 60km/h (Klasse 3)), as
well as according to the amount of used fluorescent background material
and reflective material, which are necessary for 360° visibility day and
night. The classification can also be achieved by combining different articles, e.g. combining a
jacket and a trouser. The overall surface of logos needs to be subtracted from the visible surface.
Therefore it is necessary to check out before finishing, that the articles reach the given
minimum standards in order to keep the obligated high visibility zones big enough.
The clothes are marked with the pictogram, where instead of the “x”, the applying category
is filled in.
FAIRTRADE certified cotton:
You can find this label on your clothes. FLO-CERT GmbH is certificating this
quality seal which is dealing with the production of cotton. Manufacturers
have to pay at least a cost covering price to their farmers as well as an additional
bonus for infrastructure, education and social affairs. The decision for
the use of this extra money is taken collectively by the farmers. This additional
bonus is often used to change production to organic farming. If desired, buyers have to pay a
part of the harvest in advance and both sides have to focus on stable and long term trade relationships.
The certification authority is controlling the farmers that have to join together in
cooperations to make decisions about the bonus they receive. They have to keep the agreed
social (improvement of working conditions according to the ILO guidelines), economical (flow
of goods and money) and environmental (environment and climate protection) conditions.
Oeko-Tex Standard 100:
The use of that product seal in clothes ensures the testing in all
steps of production on substances prohibited, or regulated by law,
health concerning substances and also ensures health parameters.
All components of the final product (sewing cotton, buttons, etc.)
have to comply with the basic limit values. Depending on the extent of skin contact, the
products are divided into four classes. The most stringent requirements are for toddlers and
babies. The certification must be renewed once a year.
Organic Content Standard 100 (OCS 100):
The organic content standard certification, which is directly fixed on clothing,
is awarded by the charitable organisation named Textil Exchange. This
certification is replacing the OE 100 Standard. Depending on the amount
of biological material, different logos are used (OCS 100: 95-100% kbA/
kbt fibres; OCS Blended: 5-94% kbA/kbt fibres). Through this verification,
contamination should be avoided and the use of organic natural fibers is
clearly documented. All companies along the supply chain have to follow this
standard.
TEXTILE ASSOCIATIONS/INITIATIVES
Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI):
This corporate initiative was founded in 2003 by the Foreign Trade
Association. Companies of all sectors and regions can use their code of conduct and implementation
system. However, there is no identification on the goods. The Code of Conduct
covers the following 11 topics: freedom of assembly and collective bargaining, fair wages,
health and safety, protection of young employees, forced labour, ethical conduct, discrimination,
working time, no critical employment, environmental protection and child labour.
It is based on the ILO conventions and declarations, UN guidelines and OECD guidelines.
Companies commit to the BSCI by signing the Code of Conduct. The auditing procedures take
place every 3 years and are proven by an external testing company.
Fair Labor Association (FLA):
The Fair Labor Association which was founded in 1999 believes that
all goods should be produced fairly and ethically. FLA brings together
universities, civil society organizations (CSOs) and companies to find
sustainable solutions to systemic labor issues. All companies, that are part of the FLA are
committing themselves to the FLA Code of Conduct, built on the ILO core labour standards.
The FLA code of conduct contains regulations of working conditions, working hours, abuse,
child labour, forced labour, collective bargaining, health, safety, environment and payment.
The FLA is controlling the implementation of the code of conduct on a yearly basis. Moreover,
the companies are supported by guidance and benchmarking is used for further improvements.
It is expected that the companies are taking steps to improve, as long as standards
are not fulfilled. The successful verification is valid for 2-3 years.
Fair Wear Foundation:
Fair Wear Foundation is an independent, non-profit organisation that
works with companies and factories to improve labour conditions for
garment workers. The base of the collaboration between FWF and a
member is the Code of Labour Practices. It includes the following 8 statements:
employment is freely chosen, no discrimination in employment,
no child labour, freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining, payment of a
living wage, no excessive working hours, safe and healthy working conditions, legally binding
employment relationships. These standards are based on the ILO core labour standards and
the UN Declaration of Human Rights. The use of the label on clothes is only allowed, if the
company is integrating at least 90% of the production volume in the Monitoring System
and as a consequence is reaching the score of 75+ in the benchmarking brand performance
check. FWF examines and rates its members and subsequently reports the results officially. If
necessary, the companies have to improve their standards and document the process.
SA 8000:
SAI was founded in 1989 and has established criteria, which all certificated
SAI companies have to fulfil to receive the certification. This criteria list is
based on the UN Declaration of Human Rights, conventions of the ILO,
UN and national law, and spans industry and corporate codes to create a
common language to measure social performance. All decisions must be
taken by companies, governments, trade unions and NGOs together. Each
production facility needs its own certification, which lasts for 3 years. This
certification is valid across all industrial sectors regardless of the size or other critical factors.
The list is including the following topics: child labour, forced or compulsory labour, health and
safety, freedom of association and right to collective bargaining, discrimination, disciplinary
practices, working hours, remuneration and management system.
Supplier Ethical Data Exchange (SEDEX):
Sedex is a not for profit membership organisation dedicated to driving
improvements in responsible and ethical business practices in global supply
chains. Its core product is an online database, which allows members
to store, share and report information on four key areas: labour standards,
health and safety, environment and business ethics. On the platform you can find information
about ethical and responsible practices based on the following codices: ILO convention, ETI
Basis Codex, SA8000, ISO 14001 and further specific sectoral codes of conduct. On the
provided platform suppliers can enter their ethical information and choose to share it with
multiple customers on Sedex. For purchasers Sedex offers an electronic system for collecting
and analyzing information on ethical and responsible business practices in their supply chain.
A variety of reporting tools are enabling buyers to keep track of their suppliers’ performance
and they also have access to an advanced risk assessment tool. Any company can be part of
this organization, but all registered members have to make sure to provide correct and honest
information. However, the stated data is not audited by Sedex.
Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP):
WRAP was founded in 2000 by an US garment trading organisation.
WRAP is an independent, objective, non-profit team of global social
compliance experts dedicated to promoting safe, lawful, humane and
ethical manufacturing around the world through certification and education. Only specific
production sites can be certificated, no brands or companies. Therefore the label is not directly
fixed on the clothes. WRAP is adherent to the following 12 principles: compliance with
local laws, prohibition of forced labour, prohibition of child labour, prohibition of harassment
or abuse, compensation and benefits, hours of work, prohibition of discrimination, health and
safety, freedom of association, environment, customs compliance and security. Depending on
the fulfilment of the principles the factories are rated with gold, silver or platin certifications.
WRAP audits are primarily carried out by accredited monitoring partners. They are analysing
the self-evaluation, created by the audited factories. Based on that report WRAP, is deciding
if the factory can be certificated. Additionally, all certified facilities, regardless of certification
level, are also subject to randomized, unannounced post-certification audits, which can occur
at any time.
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