UJ #10 - Beaches

PHOTOGRAPHIC REPORT 

LET’S GO NORTH! PARADISE FOR ALL 

NORTHERN 

BEACHES 

THE DRY FOREST AND MANGROVE SWAMPS 

Interview with Belen Alcorta and Sebastian Silva, 

Directors of Pacifico Adventures

CRAFTING MAGNIFICIENT 

EXPERIENCIES IN PERU 

ONE GUEST AT A TIME 

“Morro El Encanto”

(Enchanted Rock), on Peru’s North Coast, has been a source of local legends since ancient times.

INDEX 

12 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ULTIMATE JOURNEYS 

GERARDO SUGAY 

CONTENT EDITOR 

RODRIGO CABRERA / KM CERO 

DIEGO GUERRERO / LIMA TOURS 

EDITOR 

CAROLINA SAN ROMAN / KM CERO 

EDITION ASSISTANT 

GERALDYNE LONGORIA / KM CERO 

COORDINATION 

KM CERO 

ART DIRECTOR 

KM CERO 

PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ / KM CERO 

GRAPHIC DESIGN 

MIGUEL SANTAYA / SONIA ARAUJO 

INFOGRAPHS 

SANDRA FLORIAN 

26 

LET'S GO NORTH 

Paradise for all 

WRITERS 

JOANA CERVILLA 

IÑIGO MANEIRO 

PAOLA MIGLIO 

DIEGO OLIVER 

SANTIAGO PILLADO 

TRANSLATION AND CORRECTION OF TEXT 

PETER SPENCE 

40 

PHOTOGRAPHERS 

ALEX BRYCE 

RODRIGO CABRERA 

CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ 

YURY HOOKER 

JAVIER LARREA 

ARCHIVO PACIFICO ADVENTURES 

ARCHIVO KM CERO 

ARCHIVO LIMA TOURS 

ARCHIVO PROMPERU 

ENJOYING THE SEA 

Info graph

SEE AND LIVE 

Info graph 

INDEX 

6/ Editorial 

8/ Updates 

12/ Photographic report/ 

Let’s go north! 


26/ The sunshine route 

Hotels on the north coast 

38/ Enjoying the sea 

Info graph 

54 66 

40/ Interview with Belen Alcorta 

and Sebastian Silva 

Directors of Pacifico Adventures: 

“The boats enable us to collect 

the data that then form the basis 

for our scientific research.” 

52/ See and live 

Info graph 

54/ The north, naturally 

The dry forest and mangrove 

swamps 

64/ Reserves in the north 

Info graph 

72 

66/ Loving the sea 

A tour of interesting conservation 

initiatives in northern Peru 

72/ Northern cooking 

The traditional gastronomy of 

Piura and Tumbes 

74/ Surfing in an endless summer 

The waves of northern Peru as 

an ideal destination for surfers 

80/ The old man and his marlin 

Ernest Hemingway and his visit 

to Cabo Blanco 

82/ Expat 

80 

86/ Agenda 

74 

/5

EDITORIAL 

Dear reader: 

The north coast of Peru has charms that are difficult to describe. The climate, the sea and the people, among other 

elements, form a vision complemented by artisanal boats and sea birds, like messages hidden in a surrealist painting. 

The ocean is particularly pure and peaceful, making you feel you are in a very special place. The north has an attractive 

coastline, defined by beautiful bays and perpetual sunshine. 

In this new edition of ULTIMATE JOURNEYS – Travel in Peru, our destinations are the beaches of Piura and Tumbes, famous 

for their tropical characteristics, sports, adventure, gastronomy and nature, all of which make them unique. We also include 

an interesting interview with Belen Alcorta and Sebastian Silva of Pacifico Adventures, an ecotourism operator specialising in 

marine excursions. 

A trip to the north provides a sensation of freedom and enchanting scenery. On arrival, the hot sun embraces you and the 

peaceful rhythm of this part of the coast will take you by sandy paths down to its perfect beaches. Piura has resorts such as 

Lobitos, El Ñuro, Cabo Blanco, Los Organos and Vichayito; and near the border with Ecuador, we have Punta Sal and Zorritos. 

Beautiful places with quality hotels varying from health and wellness establishments to rustic lodgings perfect in every detail. 

The food in Piura and Tumbes is exquisite and specialises in seafood. Many activities are available, such as surfing, one of 

Peru’s most practiced sports thanks to our spectacular waves. Cabo Blanco is famous for its waves and because the writer 

Ernest Hemingway came here to direct scenes for the film inspired by The Old Man and the Sea, one of his best-known 

books. You can also dive, snorkel, kite-surf, swim with turtles, whale watch, go canopy walking and more. The zone also 

contains fascinating protected natural areas. Discover the dry forests, such as Cerros de Amotape National park or the Los 

Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary (Puerto Pizarro), and you will appreciate the diverse ecosystems that coexist in 

this part of Peru. 

Finally, we are proud to announce that this is a very special year for Lima Tours: we celebrate our diamond anniversary in 2016. 

Sixty years of sharing our passion for Peru with the world; a vision we bring to life every day for each guest, as the best known 

Peruvian tour operator in the world. But such success would not have been possible without the confidence and support of 

partners like you, and we are very grateful for them. 

Enjoy reading and learning! 

Your friends from Lima Tours 

OHSAS 18001 

BUREAU VERITAS 

Certification

UPDATES 

UPDATES 

PERU: CHOSEN AS THE MUST SEE DESTINATION IN SOUTH AMERICA 

IN 2016 

Readers of the Rough Guide series chose Peru as the South American 

destination that everyone should visit in 2016; it is in ninth place in The 

People’s Choice of ten countries you should visit this year. They emphasise 

not only the emblematic attractions of Machu Picchu and the Nasca 

Lines, but also the new Tucume Museum in Lambayeque. 

Talia Barreda 

FIRST HILTON GARDEN INN HOTEL IN PERU OPENED IN CUSCO 

The first Garden Inn in Peru, the fourth of the Hilton Worldwide 

chain in the country, has opened in the city of Cusco, thus expanding 

the number of hotel options in that destination. The Hilton 

Garden Inn has 137 rooms and its architecture follows the colonial 

era style that characterises the city.

VICHAMA SCULPTURES PRAISED 

BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 

Three anthropomorphic sculptures found in the 

Las Hornacinas section of Vichama, a farming 

and fishing settlement belonging to the Caral 

civilisation, have been considered by National 

Geographic magazine as one of the ten best 

finds of the past year, together with discoveries 

in countries such as Spain, Egypt and Greece, 

among others. 

National Geographic 

OFFICIAL RECOGNITION FOR ALPHABET OF THE 

KAPANAWA NATIVE LANGUAGE 

The Ministry of Education has officially recognised the 

alphabet of the Kapanawa native community, consisting 

of twenty letters. This Amazonian ethnic group lives 

on the banks of the Rivers Tapiche and Buncuya, 

in Loreto Region and speaks Kapanawa, a member of 

the Pano family of languages.

UPDATES 

UPDATES 

SPECIALISTS FROM 7 COUNTRIES OF LATIN AMERICA TOOK 

PART IN THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL TOURISM MANAGEMENT 

CONGRESS IN NPA 

The National State-Protected Areas Service (Sernanp) organised the 

First International Tourism Management Congress in NPA (natural 

protected areas). Senior officials and specialists from institutions in 

Costa Rica, Mexico, Colombia, Cuba, Ecuador, the Dominican Republic 

and Peru shared successful experiences of tourism as an activity 

compatible with the preservation of their natural protected areas. 

Ernesto Benavides 

WITITI DANCE FROM AREQUIPA DECLARED INTANGIBLE WORLD 

HERITAGE 

UNESCO has declared the traditional dance known as Wititi, popular 

in the Colca Valley, Arequipa, as an item of intangible world heritage. 

There are two versions of how it originated: the first says that the 

men wore long skirts and costumes similar to those worn by women 

in order to woo them without their parents suspecting. The second 

version claims that it is of military origin, as the warriors known as 

wititis dressed as women to confuse their enemies and thus gain an 

advantage in battle.

AGREEMENT SIGNED TO MAKE USE OF TREES 

UPROOTED BY THE RIVER MANU 

On the 12th of January the National State-Protected 

Areas Service (Sernanp) signed an agreement with 

the Boca Manu Association of Environmental Collectors 

to make use of the timber from trees uprooted 

by the River Manu, which will make preservation of 

Manu National Park possible through the sustainable 

use of its resources. The Association is made up of 

inhabitants of Boca Manu and Isla de los Valles, as 

well as the indigenous communities of Tayacome and 

Tomibato. 

Heinz Plenge 

DENMARK BUYS ORGANIC COFFEE FROM 

PRODUCERS IN THE ALTO MAYO PROTECTED 

WOODLAND. 

Cooperativa de Servicios Multiples Bosque de Alto 

Mayo Ltda. is the first Peruvian association to export 

a container of organic coffee produced in the Alto 

Mayo Protected Woodland (BPAM) and the only one 

in the whole country to hold organic certification from 

Sernanp. This coffee was acquired by NAF Trading, a 

Danish company with more than ninety years of experience 

in the worldwide coffee trade.

LET’S GO NORTH! 

THE BEACHES OF 

NORTHERN PERU HAVE 

BEEN SYNONYMOUS 

WITH RELAXATION, A 

GASTRONOMY FEATURING 

DELICIOUS FLAVOURS 

AND FRESH INGREDIENTS, 

HOT SAND, GOOD WAVES, 

ETERNAL SUNSHINE AND 

NIGHTS OF FUN. THE 

PERFECT EXCUSE TO GET 

AWAY FROM THE NOISE 

AND DAILY LIFE OF THE 

BIG CITY. THE NORTH 

HAS ADDED NATURE 

TOURISM TO ITS MENU 

OF SUN AND PLEASURE, 

THE RESULT OF ITS 

PRIVILEGED GEOGRAPHY 

THAT COMBINES THE 

SEA, THE DESERT 

AND ITS PROXIMITY 

TO THE EQUATOR, 

CHARACTERISTICS THAT 

MAKE IT AN UNBEATABLE 

PART OF THE WORLD. 

By 

Joana Cervilla 

Artisanal fishing 

boats in El Ñuro, 

Piura, Peru. 

Christian Declercq

Let’s go north! 


/13


Left: Green 

turtle 

(Cheledonia 

mydas). 

Right: Blue 

footed booby 

(Sula nebouxii) 

one of the 

characteristic 

birds of the 

zone. 

Christian Declercq 


In addition to its spectacular beaches, the pleasures associated 

with its glorious ocean and its choice of hotels —from 

small lodges for family fun and relaxation to five star hotels 

where pleasure is the number one priority— Peru’s north coast 

has a large number of activities involving animals and ecozones, 

which have opened a new form of tourism in the area. This hot 

spot of nature enables us to -for example- swim with the gigantic 

green turtles that live around the jetties of Los Organos and 

El Ñuro, protected by initiatives that have managed to reduce 

the threat of extinction that affected this impressive animal; you 

can swim close to them under water, but the rule is that you 

must not touch them. 

Associations dedicated to research and conservation offer a 

different way to get to know the beaches and their wealth. At 

sea, we can see —on the old oil platforms that have become 

like artificial reefs— sea birds such as blue-footed boobies and 

tijeretas, and seals resting on the steel structures. On route we 

are escorted by dozens of small fishing boats working in perfect 

equilibrium between man and the marine fauna. After sailing off 

Cabo Blanco, Los Organos and El Ñuro, throwing a baited line 

over the side and then preparing our own cebiche on board, 

out at sea, is a dream come true. And if we’re lucky, we’ll see 

groups of dolphins accompanying the boat through the warm 

northern seas. 

Between July and October off the coasts of Mancora and Punta 

Sal (Piura and Tumbes), we can enjoy an unbeatable experience: 

whale watching. Getting close to these animals, which weigh 

several tons but are tranquil and elegant, and seeing them jump 

out of the sea, is an unforgettable experience. 

richness of the northern Peruvian sea, because of the convergence 

of the cold Peruvian or Humboldt Current and the warm 

El Niño Current. 

Further north is the Los Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary. 

This natural mangrove swamp is one of the planet’s most 

productive ecosystems, based on the mangrove, a type of twisted 

tree grows between the sea and the rivers in tropical zones. 

This protected area of natural wealth, flora and fauna contains 

endemic species such as the American crocodile, currently 

threatened with extinction, which can be seen during our adventure 

in canoe or kayak. 

The Cerros de Amotape National Park, created to protect the 

ecosystems of the equatorial dry forest and Pacific tropical forest, 

lies to the east. This protected area is the best-preserved 

example of equatorial dry forest in the whole Pacific Region and 

forms an oasis of life on the Peruvian coast that extends as far 

as the foothills of the Amotapes massif. It is crossed by the River 

Tumbes, the only navigable river in Peru, where we can enjoy its 

unique flora and fauna. 

This combination of landscape, relaxation. beaches and innumerable 

other experiences with the particular nature of Peru’s 

north coast, is temptation enough for us to visit this agreeable 

area that guarantees some unforgettable experiences. So, relax, 

pack your swimming gear and sunblock and enjoy the north 

and all it has to offer. 

Rodrigo Cabrera 

Getting to know the marine biodiversity is an excellent option. 

Diving in Los Organos bay brings us into close contact with the 

Peruvian pelican (Pelecanus thagus) resting 

on a boat in Los Organos. 

Opposite page: Small sailing boat belonging 

to a local fisherman opposite the famous 

cove of Cabo Blanco.


/15

FOTORREPORTAJE


/17


THE HUMPBACK WHALE OWES 

ITS NAME TO THE SHAPE OF 

ITS DORSAL FIN AND THE 

CURVE THIS FORMS WITH ITS 

BODY WHEN DIVING. IT IS THE 

WORLD'S FIFTH LARGEST 

WHALE. FEMALES GROW TO 

17 

METRES LONG AND ADULT 

MALES, 

15 

METRES THE SHELLS OF ADULT 

GREEN TURTLES CAN GROW TO 

ONE METRE ACROSS 

GETTING THERE 

BY AIR: 1.40 HOURS FROM LIMA 

TO TALARA AND PIURA AND 2.00 

HOURS FROM LIMA TO TUMBES 

(19 HOURS), TO PIURA 

(15 HOURS) AND TO TALARA 

(15 HOURS 45 MINUTES) 

40 PLANT SPECIES AND 148 

SPECIES OF BIRDS HAVE BEEN 

IDENTIFIED IN THE TUMBES 

MANGROVES SANCTUARY, 

AS WELL AS AN ENORMOUS 

DIVERSITY OF AQUATIC 

INVERTEBRATES, SUCH AS THE 

MANGROVE SCALLOP 




Previous page: View of the beach 

from El Alto, Piura. Desert landscape 

predominates on the Piura coast. 

Above: Between July and October 

the fishermen frequently see groups 

of humpback whales (Megaptera 

novaeangliae) who come to this 

area to breed. 

Left: Common dolphins (Delphinus 

capensis) off Los Organos. 

Right: Mancora is part of an ancient 

fishing tradition on the north coast. 

It is still the main economic activity 

today, together with tourism.


/19




Above and below: The 

extensive beaches of 

Mancora are ideal to 

relax and enjoy the 

sun. 

Opposite page: 

The vast sea is the 

peaceful fellow of the 

fishermen.


/21


LET’S GO NORTH!

The sea meets the River Tumbes in Los Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary. This produces an 

ecosystem that serves as a refuge for a great variety of migratory and resident birds. 

/23



Above: Flock of 

neotropical cormorants 

(Phalacrocorax 

brasilianus). 


Below: The mangrove tree 

has evolved to live in salty 

water. It has exposed, 

stilt-like roots to keep it 

stable in the muddy soils 

of the mangrove swamp. 

Opposite page, above: The 

resort of Lobitos enjoyed 

some years of wealth 

during the oil boom in the 

area. Most of the buildings 

of the old oil camp were 

built from Oregon pine 

at the beginning of the 

20th Century by British 

company Lobitos Oilfields 

Limited. 

Opposite page, below: 

The ecosystem of the 

equatorial dry forest 

consists of trees such 

as the carob (Prosopis 

pallida), palo santo 

(Bursera graveolens) 

and ceibo (Ceiba 

trichistandra).

CERROS DE AMOTAPE NATIONAL PARK 

CONTAINS 5 LIFE ZONES AND MORE THAN 

1,000 

200 

PLANT SPECIES AND 

SPECIES OF BIRDS 




/25

THE SUNSHINE ROUTE 

MANY PERUVIANS GO 

NORTH TO GET AWAY FROM 

IT ALL. IT HAS ALWAYS 

BEEN LIKE THAT. EXTENSIVE 

BEACHES, THE SEA A LITTLE 

WARMER THAN IN THE 

SOUTH AND WARM DAYS 

ENCHANT EVERYONE WHO 

PASSES THIS WAY. THIS 

AREA HAS THUS BECOME 

AN OASIS OF PLEASURE 

AND ENJOYMENT THAT CAN 

ONLY BE UNDERSTOOD BY 

THOSE WHO HAVE STAYED 

THERE AT LEAST A COUPLE 

OF DAYS. IN RECENT 

YEARS MORE HOTELS HAVE 

OPENED IN THE ZONE. 

THE SMALL CABINS OF 

YESTERYEAR HAVE BECOME 

RUSTIC YET LUXURIOUS 

REFUGES WITH FACILITIES 

FROM 500 THREAD SHEETS 

TO SPA THERAPIES USING 

LOCAL PRODUCE. LET'S SEE. 

By 

Paola Miglio 

The sunshine 

route 

Hotels on the north coast 

Resort of Vichayito, ideal for 

enjoying the sunshine and peace of 

the north. 

Gihan Tubbeh

27



Vichayito 

Bungalows & 

Carpas by Aranwa. 

EL ÑURO BEACH IS PERFECT 

FOR RELAXING AND SURFING 

OR DIVING 

Each of Peru's northern beaches has its own peculiar charms. For that 

reason the hotels have developed in tune with the location and natural 

environment, and include spacious spas and boutique therapies to suit 

each client. From El Ñuro in Piura to Zorritos in Tumbes, you can try them all 

or choose just one in which to spend an unforgettable time. It all depends on 

what experiences you are looking for. 

SURFING, DIVING AND BALI SPA 

El Ñuro is 6.6 kilometres before reaching Los Organos. It is perfect for relaxing 

and surfing or diving. The beach also has natural rock pools and a 

small pier used by fishermen. Hoteliers in the area have taken advantage of 

the solitude and built cabins that blend into the landscape: an unsuspected 

tropical atmosphere that invites you to linger and forget the passage of 

time. Some options recreate island paradises with beds covered in gossamer-white 

mosquito nets, and there are also four-star hotels surround-

ed by exotic plants but including air conditioning and 

Jacuzzis, beach terraces, swimming pools and satellite 

communications. Such as the Hotel Grandmare & 

Bungalows (www.grandmare.com). Being somewhat 

removed from the nearest towns, this hotel includes 

everything you are likely to need. 

Further north is Los Organos, a resort that has already 

become an important community in this area, 

where in addition to all facilities, is more peaceful than 

Mancora, as many families from all over the country 

have moved there. There are boat trips from Los 

Organos to see the whales that swim close to the 

coast at certain times of the year. A spectacle that 

you should see at least once in your life. 

THE MANCORA DREAM 

Mancora is one of the most visited beaches in the 

north. Its name alone evokes peace and happiness. 

The town's variety of attractions has increased over 

the years: from bars to alternative designer stores, 

gourmet restaurants offering excellent food, such as 

La Sirena and Hotelier, and shops selling the best 

home-made confectionary for those slow afternoons 

with little sunshine. 

Some of the country's best hotels and hostels can 

be found near the town, at Las Pocitas and Vichayito. 

There are bungalows equipped with the 

latest technology, right on the beach itself —such 

as Vichayito Bungalows & Carpas by Aranwa 

Alex Bryce 

The reliable wind 

on the beaches of 

Piura and Tumbes 

makes this coast 

perfect for kite 

surfers. 

/29


Above and below: 

Pleasant rooms 

and a rustic style at 

KiChic hotel in Las 

Pocitas, Mancora. 

Left: All the rooms 

of the Ecolodge 

are built from local 

materials, most of 

them recycled. 

Opposite page: 

Terrace and 

swimming pool of 

Las Arennas hotel, 

opposite Mancora 

beach. 

-www.aranwahotels.com—, and boutique hotels 

like Arennas (www.arennasmancora.com), Ecolodge 

Suites Bienestar Natural (www.ecolodgemancora.com), 

Dco Suites, Lounge & Spa (www.hoteldco.com) and the 

KiChic (www.kichic.com) at Las Pocitas. Dedicated absolutely 

to good living and pleasure, they provide yoga 

classes, spas with a view of the ocean, jacuzzis with hydromassage, 

saunas and treatments that include local 

produce such as passion fruit and coffee, accompanied 

by fresh fruit and glasses of champagne. There are also 

vegetarian restaurants and seafood bars where you can 

enjoy a light lunch of whatever the day's fishing has produced. 

DEDICATED ABSOLUTELY TO GOOD LIVING 

AND PLEASURE, THEY PROVIDE YOGA 

CLASSES, SPAS WITH A VIEW OF THE 

OCEAN, JACUZZIS WITH HYDROMASSAGE, 

SAUNAS AND TREATMENTS THAT INCLUDE 

LOCAL PRODUCE SUCH AS PASSION FRUIT 

AND COFFEE, ACCOMPANIED BY FRESH 

FRUIT AND GLASSES OF CHAMPAGNE 



Vincent Bergeron


/31


CHRONICLE / CRÓNICA

33


TUMBES PARADISE 

About 45 minutes north of Mancora you will reach 

Punta Sal, a more traditional resort characterised by 

vast white beaches and calm seas, ideal for diving. 

Luxury hotels —such as Punta Sal Suites & Bungalows 

Resort (www.puntasal.com.pe) are interspersed with 

palm-fringed houses with wooden terraces, swimming 

pools almost on the sea shore and every facility to 

enable you to disconnect from civilisation altogether. 

The little town of Cancas is a nearer to Ecuador, and it 

is unusually quiet even in the high season. Bungalows 

Canoas de Punta Sal is the ideal place to spend 

the night wrapped in white 55 thread sheets before 

waking up to a view of the Pacific Ocean. 

We end this trip in Zorritos, another typical northern 

town largely neglected by travellers, most of 

whom prefer to stay in Mancora either by custom 

or because they don't know about it. Closer to 

Tumbes and the mangrove swamps we find Casa 

Andina Select (www.casa-andina.com), which offers 

spacious and immaculate rooms and trips to the 

Los Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary; 

there is also Hotel La Posada de los Tumpis 

(www.laposadadelostumpis.com) and El Mango de 

Costa Azul (www.costaazulperu.com). Thus you can 

end your trip among tropical vegetation, mangroves 

and sandy isles lost in the mighty sea. 

Tumbes has many 

types of hotel. 

Above: Hotel Casa 

Andina Select in 

Zorritos. 

Below: La 

Posada de los 

Tumpis hotel, 

Caleta Acapulco, 

Tumbes. 



Casa Andina Hoteles




The local gastronomy 

based on fish 

and shellfish is a 

characteristic of this 

coast. The KiChic hotel 

(above) and La Sirena 

de Juan (below) are two 

good choices. 


HOW TO 

DESTRESS? 

You can do more, of course, that 

relax amid white sand and blue 

sea. The hotels of the north include 

services to help you relax, from 

yoga classes to hot stone massages. 

The alternatives are tempting. 

Some last for up to two and a half 

hours and include a choice of 

aromatic massages, aligning your 

chakras, hydrotherapy, hydromassages 

and techniques such 

as shiatsu, Thai massage and reiki. 

Casa Andina Hoteles

INTERVIEW 

A SPECIALIST IN TOURISM AND A MARINE BIOLOGIST, 

OWNERS OF ECOTOURISM COMPANY PACIFICO ADVENTURES, 

TALK ABOUT THEIR WORK ON THE COAST OF PIURA, WHICH 

INVOLVES NOT ONLY WHALE WATCHING TOURS BUT ALSO -AND 

ESPECIALLY- RESEARCH AND CONSERVATION OF COASTAL 

MARINE SPECIES. 

By 

Carolina San Roman 

How did Pacifico Adventures start and how long has 

it been in existence? 

Belen: We came to Piura because we had known the sea 

here since we were children, and realised it had potential; 

we knew there was a lot more to discover. 

Sebastian: I’ve wanted to be a marine biologist since I 

was a boy, and when I came to the north I realised that this 

was the perfect place to be one. Belen studied ecotourism 

and together we founded Pacifico Adventures as a project 

in which we would combine our professions by linking tourism 

with marine biology. We moved to Los Organos ten 

years ago to develop this project. 

Tell us about your team and what they do. 

Sebastian: We have a multi-discipline team of marine biologists, 

tourism professionals and local fishermen. One important 

group who collaborate with us consists of students 

working on their theses. So far three theses have been 

approved with the maximum possible marks. 

How do you combine your ecotourism offers with 

your research into coastal marine species? 

Sebastian: That is the idea that gave rise to our project: 

conservation and scientific research, with tourism providing 

the finance. Our slogan is: “Tourism for conservation”. 

The boats enable us to collect the data that then form the 

basis for our scientific research. 

Belen: As far as we’re concerned these elements form 

a closed circle. The natural attractions bring tourists and 

tourism generates the funds for research and preservation. 

There is a lot to learn about our ocean; but that is the 

point of our tours: a unique experience that educates and 

motivates. 

Christian Declercq

Belen Alcorta and 

Sebastian Silva 

Directors of Pacifico Adventures 

/41

INTERVIEW 

Pacifico Adventures 

Seeing humpback whales 

(Megaptera novaeangliae) 

jumping is a magic moment 

during whale watching tours. 

“DURING THE LAST 

SIGHTING SEASON WE 

SAW A BLUE WHALE 

AND ITS CALF. IT WAS 

INCREDIBLE TO SEE 

SUCH AN ENDANGERED 

SPECIES SO CLOSE TO 

THE COAST” 

This zone is very special in terms of biodiversity. 

What are its characteristics and what type of 

pressures are there on its resources? 

Sebastian: It is the confluence of several currents, 

principally the warm equatorial current and the cold 

Peruvian current. This is known as an ecotone: a special 

life zone that it is important to preserve, as it is 

the transition between two ecosystems that also has 

its own characteristics. On the coast of Los Organos 

alone we have found twelve species of cetaceans out 

of the thirty identified in Peruvian waters. This ocean is 

probably one of the most productive on the planet and 

this zone in particular is very important. 

There is a lot of pressure from fishing on many of the 

commercially important resources. Also, there is little 

scientific research being done, so planning conservation 

measures is difficult. Tourism is always positive, as 

it generates income for local people, and this shows 

that there are other forms of making use of marine 

resources. Previously, turtles were hunted for food; 

hunting was very common in this area. That has now 

changed, people who used to hunt them now see an 

economic benefit in tourism, and that looking after these 

species attracts visitors who spend money. 

A number of scientific papers have been published 

about the humpback whales. How important 

is this species to our coast? 

Sebastian: We have published five papers in different 

international scientific journals; one of the most 

important is the magazine Plus One. We have been 

able to disseminate knowledge of the species, to 

the point of suggesting something not previously 

known: northern Peru is the southern limit of their 

breeding grounds. Thanks to these studies we have 

provided new information that has increased our 

knowledge of this species.

43

INTERVIEW 

TO GUARANTEE 

SIGHTINGS WE HAVE A 

TEAM OF WATCHERS 

ON HIGH GROUND WITH 

BINOCULARS, WHO 

CAN SEE THE WHALES 

AND WHERE THEY ARE 

SWIMMING. THEY GIVE 

THIS INFORMATION 

TO OUR BOATS, WHICH 

THUS KNOW WHICH 

WAY TO HEAD 

Boats used by Pacifico 

Adventures are equipped 

to provide a world-class 

experience watching 

marine animals. 

Belen: Because of its attraction for visitors, the 

humpback whale has become an umbrella species. 

It captures people’s imagination and this generates 

an interest in preserving it, which also benefits the 

preservation of other species in the same habitat. 

It is also important as a tourism resource, because 

the sighting season occurs in what used to be the 

low season in the north. Finally, it is an emblem for 

conservation in the zone. Previously it was valuable 

for hunting; now it is valued for its tourism potential. 

The principal product is in fact whale watching. 

What is whale watching? 

Sebastian: First it is important to know when to see 

them. Our periodic observations show that whales 

can be seen from the first half of July to early November; 

almost four months. To guarantee sightings 

we have a team of watchers on high ground with 

binoculars, who can see the whales and where 

they are swimming. They give this information to 

our boats, which thus know which way to head. Different 

types of tourist come to us; Peruvians and 

foreigners, those who come just for the whales and 

those for whom whale watching is a complement 

to their beach holiday. A lot of tourists come back 

again and again, because it is an unbeatable experience. 

Belen: Now we have to work on regulating the activity. 

We were the first and have set the standard 

by using international guidelines. More boats are 

being used for this activity and we have shared our 

experience and the way of doing things with other 

people; but this will continue to grow, and to prevent 

a negative impact it is essential to carry out a 

load capacity study. 

Pacifico Adventures

45

INTERVIEW 

“HUMPBACK WHALES 

ARE MAMMALS THAT 

MIGRATE FOR LONG 

DISTANCES: THEY 

LEAVE THE ANTARCTIC 

AND SWIM FOR ALMOST 

8,000 KILOMETRES” 

In addition to whale watching and sport 

fishing, what other ecotourism activities are 

there in the north? 

Belen: Well, as well as the whales we have a 

snorkelling with turtles tour; a coastal excursion 

involving artisanal fishing followed by preparation 

of a cebiche on board the boat; a sunset tour with 

champagne on board and sport fishing, during the 

summer months when there is no wind. In additional 

to what we offer you can also visit the mangrove 

swamps, which are an important and interesting 

attraction; you can also learn to surf or kitesurf, two 

very common activities in the area. Scuba diving 

is another option, as is bird watching in Cerros de 

Amotape National Park. 

they have and understand that its resources make 

the zone uniquely attractive; but to increase tourism 

they need to work on land use regulations, 

solid waste management and infrastructure. At this 

moment, a management plan is essential, which 

should include load capacity studies. 

Sebastian: A tourism development plan to prevent 

any negative impacts of this activity in the zone. 

What new projects are you planning? 

Sebastian: We want to get into bird watching, not 

just sea birds but the species that live in the dry 

forest. This is a very interesting product for a very 

specialised public. 

Above and below: The 

offices of Pacifico 

Adventures include an 

interpretation centre, a gift 

shop and a cafeteria. 

Right: Sport fishing is 

a good alternative for 

days when there is little 

wind. The dolphin fish 

(Coryphaena hippurus) can 

grow to 2.1 metres long 

and weigh 40 kilos. 

Opposite page: Other 

activities include dolphin 

watching, snorkelling and 

swimming with turtles. 

Nature is an important attraction in this zone, 

what does it need to become an ecotourism 

destination? 

Belen: The zone has a very high potential as a destination 

for seekers of nature. Local and regional 

governments should place a higher value on what 

Belen: Another project we would like to start is to 

incorporate the Moche Route and link it to our products, 

with a long-term vision of the north as a single 

entity from La Libertad to Tumbes. 



Pacifico Adventures




/47


INTERVIEW

MANCORA 

3D/2N 

DAY 1 LIMA-PIURA-MANCORA 

- Arrival at Piura Airport. 

- Transport to Mancora. 

- Afternoon free to relax in your hotel or enjoy the beaches. 


premium 

experience 

in the air 

DAY 2 MANCORA 

- Breakfast. 

- Hump-backed whale watching tour from Los Organos to 

Cabo Blanco (available from the 15th of July to the 15th of 

November) or a coastal trip from Los Organos to El Ñuro 

beach and snorkelling with turtles (option available from the 

16th of November to the 14th of July). 

- Afternoon free to enjoy the beach and relax in your hotel. 

Imagine flying to Peru or any destination, at any time, in a private and confortable 

plane with premium on-board services, without the risk of losing your flight and 

avoiding unnecessary delays. 

“You decide when and where, the rest leave it in our hands” 

DAY 3 MANCORA-PIURA-LIMA 

- Breakfast. 

- Morning free to enjoy the beach. 

- Transport from Mancora to Piura Airport in the afternoon. 

reservas@atsaperu.com 

+ (511) 363 - 7457 

wwww.atsaperu.com 

ATSA perú 

Certifications 

/49

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ACTIVITY LEVEL 

DAY 1 - ZAGREB 

- Hands-on culinary course 

DAY 2 - ZAGREB / ZAGORJE 

- Fish & food market guided tour 

- Štrukli cooking & wine tasting 

- Hike through the Zagorje hills 

- Traditional Zagorje village meal 

DAY 3 - GORSKI KOTAR 

- Hands-on foraging tips in Gorski 

Kotar 

- Tree planting 

- Cycling through local villages 

- Cooking demonstration of local 

surprise specialties 

DAY 4 - UČKA 

- 2 hour hike of the Učka Nature Park 

- ATV tour and wine-tasting in Istria 

DAY 5 - OPATIJA 

- Exploring Veliki Brijun Island by bike 

- Cooking class in Opatija 

DAY 6 - PAKLENICA 

- Hiking, Paklenica National Park 

- Visit Nin Saltworks Park 

DAY 7 - ZADAR 

- Prosciutto sampling 

- Biking through the National Park Krka 

DAY 8 - SPLIT 

- Split gastro tour 

- Pelješac wine & oyster tastings 

DAY 9 - DUBROVNIK 

- Sea kayaking along the Adriatic coast 

- Cooking class & dinner, Konavle 

ACTIVITY LEVEL 

ALTITUDE: 

max 3200 metres 

Explore China’s icons, and yet to be 

discovered treasures. Learn traditional Chinese 

skills and gain new photography expertise! 

China Multi-Sport 

from the Great Wall to the Tiger Leaping Gorge 

DAY 1 - BEIJING 

- Visit Chinese Imperial Palace 

- Visit the Hutongs 

- Visit local family to learn kite-making 

DAY 2 - GREAT WALL 

- Hike the Mutianyu section 

- Visit the Summer Palace 

DAY 3 - XI´AN 

- Visit the Terracotta Warriors 

- Bike the Xi’an City Wall 

- Visit Muslim Quarter 

- Dumpling banquet 

DAY 4 - JIUZHAIGOU 

- Visit a Tibetan family for dinner 

DAY 5 - JIUZHAIGOU 

- Hike Jiuzhaigou National Park 

- Small workshop on landscape 

photography 

- Visit Tibetan museum 

DAY 6 - SONGPAN 

- Horseback ride through 

Songpan countryside 

DAY 7 - CHENGDU 

- Visit a local park to sample a 

typical Chengdu weekend 

- Watch a Sichuan Opera 

DAY 8 - CHENGDU 

- Volunteer at the Panda 

Breeding Centre 

- Visit Leshan Mountain 

- Walk Jinli Street for a night 

photography seminar 

DAY 9 - LIJIANG 

- Early morning Taichi practice 

DAY 10/11 

- TIGER LEAPING GORGE TREK 

DAY 12 - SHAXI 

- Visit Shaxi Ancient Town 

- Visit Shibaoshan Grottoes 

DAY 13 - DALI 

- Visit local Dali villages 

- Tour the lakeside by bike

53

THE NORTH, NATURALLY 

THE NORTH OF PERU 

IS FAMOUS AS A 

GREAT DESTINATION 

FOR SURFERS, FOR 

EXCELLENT FOOD, 

FOR FINDING YOUR 

HIPPY SIDE AND 

FOR ENJOYING THE 

EQUATORIAL SUN. 

BUT, AS IN THE REST 

OF THE COUNTRY, 

THE NORTH 

CONTAINS UNIQUE 

ECOSYSTEMS 

SUCH AS THE 

MANGROVE SWAMPS 

OF TUMBES, THE 

EQUATORIAL DRY 

FOREST AND THE 

PACIFIC TROPICAL 

FOREST, WITH 

THEIR SINGULAR 

INHABITANTS. 

By 

Diego Oliver 

The north, 

naturally 

The dry forest and the mangrove swamps 

Los Manglares de Tumbes National 

Sanctuary is the habitat of the 

Chilean flamingo (Phoenicpterus 

chilensis), the most common 

flamingo in Peru. These birds can 

reach one metre in height. 

Christian Declercq

55


Renzo Tasso 



Left: Entry 25, one of the 

entrances to the buffer zone 

of the protected area. 

Right: Fishing for molluscs 

and crustaceans in the 

mangrove swamps, local 

fishermen plunge into 

the water and feel for 

mangrove scallops (Anadara 

tuberculosa) and crabs. 

Opposite page, above: 

The whimbrel (Numenius 

phaeopus) is a migratory 

bird commonly seen on the 

beaches and wetlands of 

the Peruvian coast in the 

summer months. 

Opposite page, below: The 

mangrove crab (Ucides 

occidentalis), which is 

protected by two annual 

closed seasons, from the 

15th to the 28th of February 

and from the 15th of August 

to the 30th of September. 

The far north of the Pacific coast is very different 

from the rest of the country. Near the border 

with Ecuador, an hour and a half to the north of 

Mancora, the Rivers Tumbes and Puyango discharge 

into the Pacific Ocean. The water flows slowly, with no 

rapids or shallows, meandering and forming lagoons 

amid the trees. The Amrican crocodiles observe the 

world with just their eyes sticking out of the water. 

Frigate birds fly over the forest canopy. A crab-eating 

racoon searches for food on the sea shore. This is the 

Los Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary, a very 

special ecosystem. 

LIFE IN THE MANGROVES 

Named after the mangrove, a widespread tree 

species that grows in both salt and fresh water. The 

mangroves are gradually reclaiming land from the 

sea by taking root in the sediment carried by the 

river, thus creating a natural barrier that prevents 

erosion by the tide and swell. This is how the trees 

expand their territory and preserve an ecosystem 

that is home to an exotic variety of animals. 

The sanctuary is divided into two parts: the buffer zone 

and the core. Access to the former is through Puerto 

Pizarro, a small fishing cove surrounded by tranquil 

waters. There you will find rustic restaurants selling 

the signature dish of northern Peru: mangrove scallop 

cebiche (no self-respecting inhabitant of Tumbes will 

admit not to liking it), which is said to have aphrodisiac 

properties. You can visit the isle of Love (Isla del Amor), 

a popular destination for couples seeking intimacy and 

romance, while Bird Island (Isla de los Pajaros) is a 

good place to observe White Ibis (Eudocimus albus), 

gannets (Morus bassanus), Fork-tailed Flycatchers 

(Tyrannus savanna), Kelp gulls (Larus dominicanus) 

and "Peruvian" pelicans (Pelecanus thagus) in a 

deafening feathery fiesta. You should go either early

in the morning or at sunset, when the birds are more 

active. 

But if you want to go into the core of the sanctuary, 

where visits are strictly controlled to keep the 

environment as pristine as possible, you should go 

to the Protected Natural Areas control point known 

as El Algarrobo. The park rangers use it as a base 

and it has certain facilities and an interpretation 

centre for visitors. 

Here you will be able to make contact with the 

area's diversity of fauna. There are 12 species of 

mammals, including the mangrove bear, the crabeating 

racoon and the neotropical otter, although 

the monarch of this territory is the American 

crocodile, a huge reptile that can grow up to 5 

metres long. There are also 93 species of fish, 

33 of molluscs and 34 of crustaceans. The bird 

population, on the other hand, is divided among 

native and migratory species. Of the 120 species, 

63 are migratory, some of which come from as far 

away as Canada, then fly even further south. The 

native birds include the Grey-necked Wood-Rail 

(Aramides cajanea), the Yellow-crowned Night 

Gihan Tubbeh 


THERE ARE 12 SPECIES OF 

MAMMALS, INCLUDING THE 

MANGROVE BEAR, THE CRAB-EATING 

RACOON AND THE NEOTROPICAL 

OTTER, ALTHOUGH THE MONARCH OF 

THIS TERRITORY IS THE AMERICAN 

CROCODILE, A HUGE REPTILE THAT 

CAN GROW UP TO 5 METRES LONG 

/57



Travelling through the mangrove swamps requires small boats that can 

traverse shallow water.

Heron (Nyctanassa violacea), the Bare-throated 

Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum), the White Ibis 

(Eudocimus albus) and the Mangrove Black Hawk 

(Buteogallus anthracinus subtilis). 

TWO ECOSYSTEMS, ONE RIVER 

However there are other very special ecosystems 

just a few kilometres away. These are the equatorial 

dry forest and the Pacific tropical forest, found in 

the Tumbes provinces of Zarumilla, Tumbes and 

Contralmirante Villar and extending south as far 

as the provinces of Talara and Sullana in Piura. 

This corridor is known as the Nort West Biosphere 

Reserve and includes the Cerros de Amotape 

National park (the core), the Tumbes National 

Reserve and the El Angolo Hunting Reserve 

(buffer zones). 

The River Tumbes crosses Cerros de Amotape 

National Park, which takes its name from the 

Amotape Mountains. The west bank of the river is 

considered to be equatorial dry forest, while the east 

bank, rainier and higher, is Pacific tropical forest. It 

is divided into five areas, from 120 to 1,538 m.a.s.l., 

which give the park an extraordinary variety of 

ecological zones, leading to an enormous diversity 

of plants and animals from the coastal desert to the 

forests of the upper and mid Andes. It is because of 

this unique ecosystem that the park is considered a 

world centre for plant and bird diversity. 

ago, and ride through the carob woods. Don't be 

surprised if you come across grey deer (Odocoileus 

virginianus), boa constrictors (Boa constrictor) or 

iguanas (Iguana iguana) crossing your path. With a 

little luck you may see a King Vulture (Sarcoramphus 

papa) flying overhead. 

Covering more than 151,000 hectares, the park 

is home to some spectacular animals such as 

anteaters, ocelots, jaguars, howler monkeys and 

the extraordinary American crocodile that can live 

happily in fresh or salt water and can also be seen 

in the Tumbes mangrove swamps. This reserve also 

contains the highest number of threatened species. 

However the park is particularly interesting for bird 

watchers, as it contains dozens of species including 

parrots, woodpeckers, owls, eagles, herons and 

many more. 

Alex Bryce 

Gihan Tubbeh 

Above and below: 

Cerros de Amotape 

National park is 

crossed by the River 

Tumbes, the only 

navigable river in 

Peru, which divides 

it into two life zones: 

The Pacific tropical 

forest and the 

equatorial dry forest. 

IT IS DIVIDED 

INTO FIVE AREAS, 

FROM 120 TO 1,538 

M.A.S.L., WHICH 

GIVE THE PARK AN 

EXTRAORDINARY 

VARIETY OF 

ECOLOGICAL ZONES 

Access to the park is through the National 

Protected Areas Service control point at Rica 

Playa, which can be reached on foot through 

wonderful wooded and cultivated scenery or by 

car from Bocapan. Once you reach Rica Playa 

you can hire Creole horses, adapted to the local 

terrain since the arrival of the Spanish 500 years 

/59


Below: Huge ceibos (Ceiba 

trichistandra) with their 

distinctive colour and the 

shape of their branches 

characterise the dry forest. 

Right, above and below: 

Cerros de Amotape National 

Park is an interesting place 

to see birds, such as the 

Guayaquil woodpecker 

(Campephilus guayaquilensis) 

and black tailed trogon 

(Trogon melanurus). 

ON THE OTHER HAND 

THE CAROB IS ONE OF 

THE MOST IMPORTANT 

TREE SPECIES IN 

NORTHERN PERU, 

AS IT HAS ADAPTED 

PERFECTLY TO THE 

DRY TERRAIN 

The habitat of these species consists of a great 

variety of trees and plants, and also 4 species 

of orchids. One of the most curious trees is the 

ceibo, which can grow 20 metres tall and forms an 

ecosystem in itself, harbouring unique species of 

plants and animals. On the other hand the carob is 

one of the most important tree species in northern 

Peru, as it has adapted perfectly to the dry terrain, 

providing shade and protection to both men and 

animals. 

Although Peru's most famous nature reserves are 

in the jungle and on the southern coast, it is worth 

pointing out that the northern ecosystems are merely 

another example of the country's biological diversity; 

they should not be thought of as competing with 

other parks rather as another of Peru's natural 

paradises that are worth visiting and exploring. 


Alex Bryce 


Rodrigo Cabrera


/61

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

Alex Bryce 

CMY 

Alex Bryce 

ZORRITOS PROGRAMME 

3D/2N 

DAY 1 TUMBES-ZORRITOS 

- Arrive at Tumbes Airport. 

- Transport to Zorritos. 

- Afternoon free to relax in your hotel or to enjoy the 

beaches. 

K 

DAY 2 ZORRITOS 

- Breakfast. 

- Free day to enjoy the beaches. 

DAY 3 ZORRITOS-TUMBES 

- Breakfast. 

- Transport from the hotel to Los Manglares de 

Tumbes National Sanctuary. 

- Canoe trip through the Tumbes mangrove swamps. 

- Living cultural tourism: Crab fishing demonstration 

by an expert local fisherman. 

- Transport from Los Manglares de Tumbes National 

Sanctuary. Arrive at Tumbes airport. 

Above and below: The equatorial dry forest is a unique ecosystem, which is 

fragile but contains great biodiversity.

63

65

LOVING THE SEA 

Lobitos, from oil 

camp to surfers’ 

paradise. 

A LOOK AT SOME OF THE CONSERVATION AND SUSTAINABLE 

TOURISM INITIATIVES BEING IMPLEMENTED IN PIURA AND 

TUMBES. THE SEA AND FORESTS IN THESE DEPARTMENTS 

ARE HOME TO A VERY SPECIAL BIODIVERSITY. 

By 

Iñigo Maneiro 

The songs of the humpback whales are the 

most beautiful sounds. These cetaceans have 

no vocal cords and neither do we know the 

meaning of their songs, which sound like laments 

and at some frequencies cannot be heard by 

the human ear. They sing when they are eating, 

courting, fighting or suckling their calves and the 

songs can last from one to 60 minutes. They are 

repetitive and each population of whales sings the 

same songs. 

These are some of the conclusions reached by 

biologists Sebastian Silva and Belen Alcorta, who 

for several years have combined whale watching 

ecotourism at Los Organos and Mancora, with 

research and recording of humpback whales from 

Chile to Ecuador. Scientific knowledge is later 

blended into Pacifico Adventures travel experiences 

in these two places in northern Piura. They also 

form the epicentre of experiences and activities 

based on the conservation of marine and coastal 

resources in the departments of Piura and Tumbes. 

WHERE SEA CURRENTS MEET 

To the south of Mancora, on the descent from 

El Alto to Cabo Blanco, the Pacific Ocean opens 

out before you in all its majesty. There's a sense 

of vertigo and of the infinite. Oil rigs scatter the 

horizon, surrounded by a choppy, living sea, which 

produces one of the best surfing waves in Peru. 

The sea here is criss-crossed by migratory routes 

used by species travelling from south to north, as 

the whales do from August onwards. 

From the surface they cannot be seen, but deep in 

the ocean off Cabo Blanco and the neighbouring 

El Ñuro, three powerful sea currents converge: The 

Peruvian, El Niño and Cromwell currents. The first 

flows north and is cold, the second flows south 

and is warm and the third is a deep-water current. 

Christian Declercq

Loving the sea 

Conservation initiatives 

/67


Humpback whales are an 

important tourist attraction 

for Piura Region. 

Below: This area contains 

species that do not exist in 

other parts of the Peruvian 

coast. 

Yuri Hooker 


This part of the Pacific, visible on the descent from 

El Alto, is one of the richest seas in the world and 

contains 70% of Peru's marine biodiversity. This 

marine wealth is explained by biologist Yuri Hooker. 

With many hours of diving behind him, he publishes 

the beauty of the underwater world in photographs 

and videos, thus promoting the creation of a 

marine conservation area between Isla Foca and 

Los Organos. This conservationist initiative is also 

supported by companies such as Inkaterra, which is 

developing a luxury resort next to Cabo Blanco and 

encourages the preservation of the coast. 

Yuri Hooker 

On this section of the coast, Ecoceanica works 

with turtles and whale sharks, and Pro Delphinus 

concentrates on sustainable fishing and environmental 

education to reduce the damage-causing trawling 

carried out on many sections of the Peruvian coast. 

Meanwhile the women of Lobitos, assisted by Soul 

Surfers Foundation and Wave for Development, are 

making useful articles —such as bags and table— 

from plastic collected from the beaches south of 

Mancora.

In the dry forest the weather 

is hot for most of the year. 

Below: The magnificent 

frigatebird (Fregata 

magnificens) is representative 

of the Tumbes mangrove 

swamps. 

THIS PART OF THE 

PACIFIC OCEAN IS 

ONE OF THE RICHEST 

SEAS IN THE WORLD 

AND CONTAINS 70% 

OF PERU´S MARINE 

BIODIVERSITY 

CARETAKERS OF THE FOREST 

Going north, the coastal desert meets an ecosystem 

that only exists in this part of Peru and southern 

Ecuador: the Equatorial Dry Forest. It is similar to the 

African savannah, a dry zone with high temperatures 

and vegetation adapted to the arid conditions. This 

coastal forest is home to an enormous and special 

diversity of birds, a large number of them endemic, 

in other words species that exist here and nowhere 

else. 

Alex Bryce 

In the far north near the border with Ecuador is Los 

Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary, a unique 

ecosystem of trees adapted to brackish conditions 

that seethes with life in the form of crustaceans, 

molluscs, fish and birds. In the sanctuary, Dr. Carlos 

Zavala heads the frigate bird project (Proyecto 

Fragata) researching into these elegant birds that 

fly through the skies of Tumbes with such grace. 

This work has led to sustainable tourism options for 

visitors to Puerto Pizarro. 


/69


Left: Resort of Lobitos, 25 

kilometres from Talara, is 

the centre of operations for 

the Waves for Development 

Association. 

Right: The palo santo tree 

has been used for medicinal 

purposes since pre-Hispanic 

times, it is said to have antidepressive, 

relaxing, anticarcinogenic 

and antiseptic 

properties. It is used locally 

as incense. 


“As long as I can plant I'll continue to do so. Until the 

day I die”. In 1995, when the conflict between Peru 

and Ecuador was at its height, when nobody wanted 

anything to do with the north of the country, Javier 

Chang and Teresa Fu decided to leave Lima to live 

in the dry forest. When they reached Zorritos they 

planted species suitable for this ecosystem: carob 

(Prosopis pallida), palo santos (Bursera graveolens), 

guayacanes (Tabebuia chrysantha) and umbrella 

thorn (Acacia tortilis). Every year they planted more 

than 5,000 seeds. "Until the day I die” insists Javier. In 

1997, on the eve of the torrential rains accompanying 

the El Niño phenomenon, they decided to take 

advantage of the rainfall and scattered more than 

180,000 seeds to create the first Private Conservation 

Area (ACP) in Tumbes, covering an area of more than 

120 hectares. Here between the mountains and the 

sea, is the Amotape Inka’s Resorts, the place to go if 

you want to get to know the area. 

TO KNOW IT IS TO LOVE IT 

Conservation goes hand in hand with education. 

Without some knowledge of an ecosystem as 

special and diverse as this one, there is no desire to 

look after it. Organisations such as Planeta Oceano, 

Naturaleza y Cultura and Manos Azules, include 

environmental research and education modules 

developed in conjunction with teachers, schools, 

associations and institutions. Planeta Oceano works 

with turtles and manta rays; the second group 

intervenes in natural protected areas, training park 

rangers and researching the coastal wetlands, while 

Manos Azules does the same for environmental 

aspects in the community of Los Organos (fishermen 

Alex Bryce 

and schools). “I think the future is education and that 

we should think about the common benefits”. So 

says Karla Gabaldoni, resident of Los Organos and 

promoter of an initiative by which local pupils commit 

themselves to knowledge and care of the sea. 

Views of an ocean opening up before you in all its 

immensity, and a forest that is unique in the world. 

This is a view that sees beyond tomorrow. To the 

future of our children, so that they too will be able to 

admire and enjoy one of the richest oceans on the 

planet. 

INFORMATION 

• ACP BOSQUE SECO DE AMOTAPE. 

amotapeinkasresorts@yahoo.com 

• CONSERVAMOS POR NATURALEZA. 

www.conservamospornaturaleza.org 

• ECOCEANICA. www.ecoceanica.org 

• MANOS AZULES. on Facebook. 

• NATURALEZA Y CULTURA. www.naturalezaycultura.org 

• PACIFICO ADVENTURES. www.pacificoadventures.com 

• PLANETA OCEANO. www.planetaoceano.org 

• PRODELPHINUS. www.prodelphinus.org 

• PROYECTO FRAGATA. www.avesfragatasperu.com 

• SOUL SURFERS FOUNDATION. www.soulsurfers.org

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the 1.5 hour excursion. Spacious seats, panoramic views, UV-protected windows, 

air conditioning, fine Peruvian cuisine and impeccable service await travelers.

SEAFOOD COOKING 

Seafood cooking 

What should you eat when you’re up north? 

THE NORTH OF PERU IS BLESSED WITH QUALITY INGREDIENTS AND TRADITIONAL FLAVOURS. WHILE 

THE SEA PROVIDES LOCAL PEOPLE WITH FRESH FISH AND SHELLFISH, THE FIELDS PRODUCE SUBTLY 

FLAVOURED LEMONS, LIMO CHILLIES, JUICY MANGOES, CASSAVA AND BANANAS. NORTHERN DISHES 

ARE UNBEATABLY DELICIOUS AND DATE FROM PRE-HISPANIC TIMES. THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD EAT IF 

YOU'RE GOING TO PIURA AND TUMBES. THERE'S NO ESCAPE! 

BY 

Paola Miglio 

Pilar Olivares 

Archaeologist and anthropologist Anne Marie Hocquenghem explains in her research that the abundance 

of foodstuffs on the coast of Peru has its origin in pre-Hispanic times. The people of Bajo 

Piura, Alto Piura and the Chira area, have managed to preserve the indigenous cuisine of their 

forefathers and adapt it to modern times. Let us give thanks for that. Of course the variety of local produce 

is also important. Piura and Tumbes are coastal regions, but they also share dry forests, a tropical zone 

and mountains; this means that the number of ecological zones provides innumerable possibilities for 

gastronomy. Fishing and farming provide produce from sea and land, and the northern climate ensures 

that ingredients are of impeccable quality. 

Raul Garcia 

One of the basic dishes in northern cuisine is cebiche. It’s different here: the fish is always macerated in 

lemon juice, and accompanied here by onion, limo chilli, the roast maize known as cancha, mote, sweet 

corn, cassava and zarandaja, boiled beans that are typical of the area. It is served with chicha de jora 

(maize beer). What type to order? If you’re up north, try the tasty mero murique (a fine, white, firm-fleshed 

fish), sea bass, langoustines, crab or mangrove scallops. It is always worth asking whether it is the closed 

season, because several species are endangered, particularly the mangrove scallop.

SOUP, BROTH AND CHOWDER 

The soups, broth and chowders prepared in the north are a noble tradition. They are fixtures 

in the picanterias and chicherias, simple and traditional eating places that still exist, especially 

in Catacaos and Chulucanas (Piura), where you eat at a long shared table together with the 

locals. The food is made from whatever is available on the day. From fresh cebiche to the 

mighty sudado typical of Piura, a cross between a soup and a stew. It is made from tomatoes, 

fish, chilli peppers and chicha, and served in a deep bowl with the meat covered in a soup-like 

gravy. To go with it: cassava and, especially, rice. This is the fine, long-grained rice that also 

grows in the north and, cooked just right, moistens on the plate. 

A good lunch starts with a chilcano, also known as ‘raise-the-dead broth’, followed by a nap 

made necessary by the amount of phosphorus accumulated. It was traditionally made in Tumbes 

and Piura with fish heads -bonito, cochayuyo (a seaweed) and lemon. Like everything in 

life however, it has developed somewhat and today other fish can be used (usually whatever 

is available on a given day). Served with potatoes, with fresh lemon squeezed over it and chilli 

pepper, a little chopped parsley or coriander, and there you have it! Finally, chupe is stout broth 

containing milk, eggs and even pasta. In Tumbes it is often made using crab, which gives it an 

even more intense flavour. Helpings are so large that it is practically a main course in its own 

right. So, a little advice: share a chupe or order it as your main dish. 

FISH DISHES 

Usually, seafood dishes in the north are shared among several people; that way you can try a 

bit of everything, because the servings are very generous. One of the classic dishes in Tumbes 

is majarisco, made from fried bellaco bananas bathed in a sauce made from shellfish and 

including squid, giant squid, scallops of various kinds, langoustines, fish stock or chilcano, 

mangrove scallops, octopus and anything else that may be available. It is seasoned with garlic, 

chilli peppers (limo, yellow chillies, panca, among others) and coriander. Majado is also an 

important dish. It can be made using cassava or stewed green bananas that are then mashed 

and thoroughly mixed and served with a dressing made from onions, limo chilli and coriander. 

Traditionally, it is prepared using roast pork, but shellfish are fine as well, or it can be served on 

its own, without the meat, as a side dish. 

Malarrabia is another stew, traditionally eaten on Fridays during Lent, especially in Piura. It is served 

with yellow rice —coloured with turmeric— boiled salted fish, green bananas and an onion 

dressing, covered with goat milk cheese. Some even add beans. As a starter or side dish at 

lunch, try green tamales, which are delicious with northern seafood dishes. Its slight sweetness 

serves a a contrast to the other intense flavours just like sweet potato in cebiche: counteracting 

the heat of the chilli pepper and the acidity of the lemon juice. It also goes well with fried fish 

or shellfish. The true green tamale from Piura is made from maize (sweetcorn), coriander and 

pieces of cheese, chicken or pork. 

Paola Miglio 

SWEETS 

THE LIST IS A LONG ONE, STARTING 

WITH NATILLAS, MADE FROM GOAT 

MILK, FLOUR AND CHANCACA OR 

CARAMELISED SUGAR. YOU WILL 

ALSO FIND CHUMBEQUE DE MIEL 

(A SWEET CAKE MADE FROM EGG 

YOLKS, SPICES AND HONEY) AND 

LEMON STUFFED WITH THAT SOFT 

TOFFEE CALLED MANJAR BLANCO, 

CORNSTARCH OR PINEAPPLE 

ALFAJORES WITH MANJAR, 

VOLADORES, QUESILLO AND THE 

FAMOUS ALFEÑIQUES OR SUGAR 

BARS MADE WITH CHANCACA, 

SESAME OR PEANUTS. 

Let us end with two basic items that should always be included in a northern seafood menu: 

chicha de jora, drunk well chilled in cups called potos, and made from white maize boiled and 

fermented, and banana chips or chifles, consisting of thin slices of green fruit deep fried in beef 

dripping. They come in salty, sweet and spicy varieties. Afterwards, all that remains is to enjoy 

everything and pray that you will have the time to come back, again and again. 

/73

SURFING IN AN ENDLESS SUMMER 

THE SMELL OF THE SEA 

AND THE SOUND OF 

WAVES IN THE NIGHT: 

THE PERFECT GUIDE 

FOR US TO FOLLOW OUR 

INSTINCTS. AT DAWN 

WE'RE INSIDE A TUBE OF 

CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATER 

AND WHITE FOAM, A 

FEW METRES FROM THE 

SHORE. ROCKS HEAVING 

WITH LIFE BENEATH 

LOCAL FISHING BOATS 

ARE ALSO A PART OF 

THIS HOLY PLACE. 

THE SAND IS WARM 

AND WONDERFUL. WE 

ARE WELCOMED BY 

THE SEA BREEZE AND 

PERPETUAL SUNSHINE. 

THESE WATERS ARE 

FULL OF HISTORY 

AND FUN. AND THEY 

REPRESENT LIVING AT 

ITS PUREST. 

By 

Santiago 

Pillado-Matheu 

Photo 

Javier Larrea 

Surfing in an 

endless summer 

El Hueco, in Lobitos, 

is a wave for 

experienced surfers, it 

is large and tubular. 

A trip around the most emblematic surf spots in northern Peru

75


Peña Redonda - Km 1,212 

Swell direction: north, northeast, east, south, southeast 

TUMBES 

Zorritos - Km 1,240 

Swell direction: north, northeast, east 

Mancora - Km 1,165 

Swell direction: all directions 

Los Organos - Km 1,153 


Cabo Blanco - Km 1,137 


PIURA 

Panic Point - Km 1,137 

Swell direction: south, southeast 

Lobitos - Km 1,114 

Swell direction: north, south 

Level: beginners, 

medium, advanced 

Level: medium, 

advanced 

PACIFIC 

OCEAN 

CHICLAYO 

TRUJILLO 

Pacasmayo - Km 681 

Swell direction: south, southeast 

Chicama - Km 614 


Huanchaco - Km 562 


Level: advanced 

Above: El Hueco, Lobitos. 

Below: Piscina, a short wave 

generating small but perfect 

tubes, ideal for intermediate 

level surfers. 

Opposite page, left: The Lobitos 

wave is long, left-handed and in 

certain months provides many 

tubes. 

Opposite page, right: Surfer in 

Mancora, where the waves are 

regular for most of the year; the 

perfect place to learn. 

Work by Peruvian Felipe Pomar, the first world 

champion in the history of surfing, shows 

that Peru was the centre of the sport of 

surfing the waves more than two thousand years 

ago. Pre-Hispanic cultures in northern Peru and 

particularly the Moche, great fishermen, navigators 

and experts in the sea, surfed the perfect waves 

found on their coasts every time they returned to 

land. 

From Trujillo to Tumbes and Chiclayo to Piura, 

the Peruvian coast provides a permanent feast of 

perfect waves for every type of surfer -whether 

beginner or expert- in an area of enchanting villages, 

extraordinary scenery, open beaches and secret 

spots. 

Leaving Lima by road for Piura, the department with 

the largest number of world-class waves, three spots 

are worth stopping to see: Huanchaco, Chicama and 

Pacasmayo. The pre-Hispanic city of Chan Chan, 

is our first landmark a mere fifteen minutes from 

Trujillo: the beachside resort of Huanchaco, land of 

the caballitos de totora, produces a left-hander with 

various sections that you can surf almost every day. 

614 kilometres north of Lima on the Northern Pan- 

American Highway, we reach Chicama (Malabrigo), 

which boasts the largest wave in the world: a 

left-hander 2.2 kilometres long with six distinct 

sections (El Cape, El Point, Las Dos Tetas, El Hotel, 

El Hombre, El Malecon), which acts like a perfect 

machine: wherever you leave your wave you can 

catch the second in the same place. There is an 

offshore wind all along the wave that is strongest 

on the El Hotel and El Hombre sections, the latter 

being the most tubular of them all. Then, at 681 

kilometres, the mid-point between Lima and Piura, 

is Pacasmayo: a beautiful resort with a wave similar 

to that of Chicama, but shorter, bigger and stronger. 

There is a strong current in all its sections, so you 

have to save your strength. 

If you want to get straight to the epicentre of surfing, 

Piura is a paradise of perfect waves. From Talara 

to Mancora there are endless possibilities for the 

surfer. The most emblematic waves in the region are

THE LOBITOS WAVE, 

AT THE TIP OF THE 

BEACH, IS A WORLD- 

CLASS, LONG AND 

TUBULAR LEFT- 

HANDER, AND SOME 

OF ITS SECTIONS 

ARE SUITABLE FOR 

NOVICE SURFERS 

perfect tubular left-handers, although occasionally 

you find a right-hander with the same characteristics. 

Lobitos is 1,104 north of Lima, a district that seems 

to have survived from another age, when American 

oil companies came to Peru and worked there at the 

beginning of the 20th Century; the place where the 

first cinema in South America was built. 

Lobitos has waves all year round. Breakers with 

different characteristics, within a radius of twenty 

minutes walk; there is simply always a wave for you 

here. The Lobitos wave, at the tip of the beach, is a 

world-class, long and tubular left-hander, and some of 

its sections are suitable for novice surfers. Near here 

is El Hueco, a very powerful and tubular wave that 

reaches the tip of Lobitos beach when the conditions 

are optimal. El Muelle, another world-class wave with 

perfect tubes every time it breaks can be found to the 

north of the beach. Baterias and Piscinas, continuing 

towards the north, are good when the others are 

not so great. They are left-handers with a perfect 

shoulder and -occasionally- tubes. 

Further north, 1,137 kilometres out, is the cathedral 

Lobitos. 

/77


PERU'S CATHEDRAL OF 

SURF: CABO BLANCO 

AND PANIC POINT, 

TWO WAVES THAT 

ARE VERY CLOSE 

TO ONE ANOTHER 

AND HAVE SIMILAR 

CHARACTERISTICS: 

PERFECT, SOLID TUBES 

of surfing in Peru: Cabo Blanco and Panic Point, two 

waves that are very close to one another and have 

similar characteristics: perfect, solid tubes. They are 

difficult waves that break late at different seasons, 

and almost never together. Waves that can reach 

three and a half metres, with wide and powerful 

tubes that are ideal for experienced surfers. 

Sixteen kilometres further on we come to Los 

Organos, a beautiful beach with a spot known 

as La Vuelta produces the best waves: a classic 

wave, consistent and tubular, permitting many 

manoeuvres and a long ride. Other options include 

Punta Veleros, Organitos and Casablanca, they are 

easier and smaller and break practically all year 

round. 20 minutes by car or trike will take us to 

Mancora, the most famous resort in Piura where the 

wave is pretty and fun, suitable for anyone, with long 

walls just waiting to be drawn by all who fall under 

its spell. 

In Tumbes, just a few kilometres from Mancora, we 

find the Peña Redonda and Santa Rosa waves. The 

first one breaks when the sea is calm and there are 

no waves in practically any of the other beaches, 

it generates a perfect peak on both sides, while 

the second breaks just a few times a year and only 

when the sea is rough. 

There are innumerable options in northern Peru, 

mainly between Piura and Tumbes. All you need is 

an adventurous spirit and a desire to find the wave 

of your life. 

The waves at Cabo Blanco are world famous for their long, perfect tubes. The waves 

can reach 3 metres in height.

O x y g e n E n h a n c e d T o u r i n g 

“The oxygen enriched cabin is effective in preventing altitude sickness. 

Passengers will feel great cruising even this high across the highplateau”. 

says onboard medical advisor Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Cima Clinic in Cuzco 

"La cabina enriquecida con oxígeno es eficaz para prevenir el mal de altura. Los pasajeros 

pueden estar seguros de sentirse bien incluso en las zonas más altas del Altiplano". 

comentó el médico asesor a bordo Dr. Dante Valdivia 

Clínica Cima en Cuzco 

Alleviates altitude sickness symptoms including shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue and nausea. 

Alivia los síntomas de altitud como la dificultad en la respiración, dolores de cabeza, fatiga y náuseas. 

A higher concentration of oxygen will provide a more relaxing journey. 

Una mayor concentración de oxigeno ayudará al pasajero en tener un viaje más placentero 

Oxygen departure valve 

Válvulas de salida de oxígeno 

Driver Panel 

12v o 24v Solenoid Valve 

Válvulas de 12v o 24v 

40sch Flowmeter 

Flujometro de 40sch 

Oxygen Cylinders 

Cilindros de Oxígeno 

40psi Pressure regulator 

Regulador de presión de 40psi 

Low pressure Oxygen line under bus 

Línea de Oxigeno de baja presión debajo del bus 

The additional Oxygen in BusO2, creates a special 

environment 1000m / 3280 ft lower than the actual altitude 

El oxígeno adicional en el Bus, crea un ambiente 

especial 1000m más abajo que la altura real. 

For more information, please contact your Lima Tours 

Specialist or write us to: inbound@limatours.com.pe 

www.limatours.com.pe 

Para más información, favor contáctese con su especialista 

de Lima Tours o escribanos a: inbound@limatours.com.pe 

/79

THE OLD MAN AND HIS MARLIN 

Cabo Blanco: 

The old man 

By 

Paola Miglio 

and his marlin 

HOW DID CABO BLANCO, A SMALL FISHING VILLAGE IN NORTHERN PERU, BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH 

ERNEST HEMINGWAY? HERE IS A STORY THAT BRINGS TOGETHER LITERATURE, A PASSION FOR THE SEA 

AND THE MYTHICAL BLACK MARLIN. 

years ago (1956), Ernest Hemingway 

came to Talara (Piura), to a small airport 

in northern Peru and the starting point 

for an adventure that would take him in search of 

the black marlin, that mythical species mentioned 

in his book The Old Man and the Sea. At the time 

his arrival caused great excitement. It wasn’t every 

day that a man of his calibre flew in: a Nobel and 

Pulitzer Prize winner who had volunteered during 

the First World War and worked as a war correspondent. 

And on top of that, he came with a Warner 

film crew to shoot part of the film based on his 

book. He was said to be a straightforward man and 

he went on to the Cabo Blanco Fishing Club. This 

exclusive fishing club was founded in 1951 by Kip 

Farrington and Tom Bates, it had just twenty members 

and the annual subscription was ten thousand 

dollars. It also hosted John Wayne, Bob Hope, Paul 

Newman, Spencer Tracy, Marilyn Monroe, James 

Stewart, Gregory Peck and Cantinflas, and was 

where Alfred Glasell Jr., an American millionaire, 

caught a black marlin weighing more than 700 kilos 

(1,543.24 pounds) and measuring 4 metres long 

(13 feet), the world record. 

Omar Zevallos, in his work Hemingway in Peru, reports 

that a cable from United Press was sent to 

the three most important daily papers in Lima, El 

Comercio, La Prensa and La Cronica, announcing 

that the writer would fly to Peru to direct the filming 

of The Old Man and the Sea. Hemingway had 

heard from Kip Farrington, an expert fisherman, that 

“there’s a sport fishing paradise where the fabulous 

black marlin reigns supreme (identical to the one 

described in his famous novel), in a hidden cove in 

a South American country called Peru. Hemingway 

had been to Mexico on one of his many trips around 

the world, but had never set foot in South America”. 

It took just 36 days for the three Peruvian journalists 

who covered the event (Manuel Jesus Orbegozo, 

Jorge Donayre Belaunde and Mario Saavedra- 

Pinon Castillo) to collect sufficient material to write 

innumerable articles about Hemingway’s visit. And 

even a book. Just 36 days for Hemingway to leave 

an imperishable record of Cabo Blanco, where 

neither the Fishing Club nor the old traditions have 

survived and which is now just an ordinary beach 

for surfers, fishermen and those seeking silence and 

peace. 36 days in which the author, on board his 

boat Miss Texas, went out to sea and caught four 

marlin, one weighing more than 300 kilos (661,387 

pounds). That’s the one he was able to land -because 

legend has it that a fish weighing 900 kilos 

(1,984.16 pounds) got away. 

Hemingway came to Peru after a life full of adventure. 

War, accidents, litres of alcohol and permanent 

debts. His wife Mary Welsh came with him. It was a 

simple, agreeable visit in which he communicated in 

good Spanish; passionate, at times euphoric, with a 

fear of everything to do with social events. He spoke 

to journalists and made a couple of friends with 

whom he never lost contact, but above all he put the 

hitherto anonymous Cabo Blanco on the map. And 

his echo can still be heard today. A little disjointed, 

told in whispers and with uncertain details and photos 

in black and white. Just like all legends should 

be. Legends, that is, of unforgettable characters. 

Marco Garro 

36DAYS 

WHICH THE AUTHOR WENT 

OUT TO SEA AND CAUGHT 

MARLIN, 

4ONE WEIGHING MORE THAN 

300 KILOS 

Above: Traditional fish jetty at Cabo 

Blanco. 

Left: Photograph of Ernest Hemingway 

and a marlin weighing more than 300 

kilos caught at Cabo Blanco. 

Right: Cabo Blanco is visited all year 

round by experienced surfers wanting 

to ride its mythical wave.


/81

EXPAT

Tom 

Gimbert 

By 

Carolina San Roman 

“WORKING WITH LOCAL PEOPLE AND LEARNING FROM THEIR EXPERIENCES IS THE MOST INTERESTING THING 

ABOUT WORKING IN PERU”, SAYS THE FRENCH ARCHITECT, WHO MOVED TO OUR COUNTRY TO DEVELOP 

SUSTAINABILITY-BASED DESIGN PROJECTS. 

Where were you born and where in the world 

have you lived? 

I was born in France, in the city of Nantes. I grew up there 

and later went on an exchange visit to Seville, where I 

learned Spanish. After that I moved to Paris where I 

studied architecture and thanks to that discipline I have 

lived in Barcelona, Oceania, Chile and now Peru. 

Where did your interest in architecture come 

from, and in sustainable architecture in 

particular? 

I started studying physical education in Nantes but 

half way through the course my father, who is also an 

architect, convinced me that my destiny was to become 

one too. My father, my flatmate, my girlfriend and my 

brother were all involved in the career and in fact I had 

always liked it but never wanted to try it. That was how 

I decided to take it up, so I went to university in Paris. 

The course taught me more and guided me towards 

what I really liked doing: doing things responsibly 

and with other people, building using materials and 

techniques from the area and involving local people in 

each project. I grew up in a sustainable and responsible 

environment. My mother always taught us that, and it's 

really my way of living. 

What brought you to Peru? 

The school where I was studying had a very interesting 

approach to work; four months studying, two months 

of practical work, four months professional experience 

and two months of vacations. I took advantage of the 

practical work months to travel, and in Chile in 2007 

I met a French guy who told me about Mancora and 

about his projects there, so we decided to meet there 

the following year. So I went from France to Guayaquil 

and from there direct to Mancora; I never went to Lima; 

I didn't know anything about Peru at that time. 

What made you want to stay? 

I met another Frenchman who asked me to work with 

him building a bungalow. I liked his way of working very 

much, being on site every day, solving problems in situ, 

not like in France where architects work at the drawing 

board and never get to grips with the construction. 

Also, I had always worked with wood and knew how 

to build with it. this work enabled me to apply what I 

knew. When the bungalow was finished I went back to 

France to finish my degree; I came and went a couple 

of times over two years and finally I settled in Peru. 

What was your first project in Mancora? 

El Atelier, a wine bar. I needed some project that would 

get me known. I had 5,000 dollars and with that money I 

rented an old Inca Kola shop; a friend and I built the bar. 

Furthermore, and thanks to this project, I met Gerardo 

and Martin, two young guys from the jungle who had 

just arrived and were looking for building work. We got 

on so well that we worked together for five years. 

Vincent Bergeron 

/83

EXPAT 

THE ECOLODGE IS AIMED 

AT A VERY SPECIFIC TYPE 

OF VISITOR, LOOKING FOR A 

PLACE BUILT SUSTAINABLY 

THAT OFFERS FAMILY 

ACCOMMODATION WITH 

AN ENVIRONMENTAL 

EMPHASIS 

Rooms at Ecolodge, a hotel built 

and operated by Tom in Mancora. 

Your second project, a hotel in Mancora, 

introduced you to the world of tourism. Tell 

us a little about the construction and you 

experience of managing a hotel… 

I sold my apartment in Nantes to build the hotel. 

It wasn't enough to acquire land on the beach, 

but I behind it, yes. The interesting thing about the 

ecolodge is that almost a hundred percent of the 

material used in its construction was either recycled 

or typical of the zone. We used bamboo, timber, 

sawdust, donkey dung, straw, etc. We only used 

concrete for the foundations, and brick and stone 

for the swimming pool. It was a great experience 

building it; watching how people did things here 

meant that I learned different techniques. I spent 

10 months on the construction with the help of 4 

other people. We experimented a great deal, as 

we built the place without plans. We started with 

the aim of building two houses, one for me and the 

other to rent; but it gradually took shape and ended 

up as the ecolodge. During the process I had to 

learn to manage the business. I started with the 

idea that each visitor should have a front door key 

so we wouldn't have to have anyone in reception; 

Tom Gimbert 

but then I realised that this didn't work either for the 

type of lodgings we were proposing nor for the type 

of tourist. 

The ecolodge is aimed at a very specific type of 

visitor, looking for a place built sustainably that 

offers family accommodation with an environmental 

emphasis. We know all our guests —we don't have 

many— and we make sure we know all we need to 

know about them; we organise activities for them 

during the day and also book their restaurant tables 

for them. 

What other projects have you worked on in 

Mancora? 

Once the ecolodge was finished I was contacted 

to work on different projects; so once again I was 

working as an architect. With the same team I 

built part of the KiChic hotel and some houses in 

the zone, another project in Los Organos and the 

remodelling of La Sirena restaurant. But the most 

interesting one was a project with the architecture 

school where I studied in France. We organised a 

five-month module in which students from France 

investigated how people live and build in Mancora;

Tom Gimbert 

Tom Gimbert 

then they submitted proposals on how to resolve the problems 

experienced by five children with special needs living under very 

difficult conditions. We chose the five best proposals and obtained 

financing for the students to travel to Piura to build what they had 

designed. In one month, with 25,000 dollars,we built five houses. 

The project was a success, so much so that in April of that year we 

started building two more houses. 

What are you working on now and what projects do you 

have for the future? 

A luxury sustainable hotel; it’s on the island of Amantani. We have 

worked with the local community, particularly with Oswaldo, who 

contracted us for the job. It has just two rooms; Oswaldo himself 

welcomes guests and a chef trained by Gustu prepares food 

based on local cuisine. The next one is a hotel project in Tarapoto. 

What was your most interesting experience working in 

Peru? 

Working with local people, sharing the experiences of every 

member of the team, because I never work alone. There are 

always difficulties, but it is very enriching and interesting. What's 

more, whenever we have a new project we set aside part of the 

budget to do something in the local community, such as build a 

school, or help with farming techniques, etc. That also enriches 

the experience. 

Nicolas Villaume 

Above: Thanks to a joint project with the University 

of Paris, 5 homes for 5 poor families have been 

built in Mancora. 

Below: His most recent project, the Amantica 

Lodge, a luxury hotel on the shore of Lake 

Titicaca, designed by Tom and the people of the 

Isle of Amantani. 

/85

AGENDA 

AGENDA 

'DO IT FOR YOUR BEACH' CAMPAIGN 

For the fourth consecutive year, the ‘Do it for Your Beach’ 

campaign is being held on the 5th and 6th of March; an initiative 

by Conservamos por Naturaleza and Life Out of Plastic 

(LOOP) to clean up Peru’s beaches. More than 4,000 volunteers 

took part last year, who collected more than 32 tons of 

waste; three other countries took part and 177 beaches, rivers 

and lakes were cleaned. For more information on the campaign 

see the Facebook page of Hazla por Tu Playa: www. 

facebook.com/HAZla/?fref=ts. 

LATIDOS EXHIBITION AT MAC 

Lima Museum of Contemporary Art presents an exhibition 

entitled Latidos, by Italian artist Gregorio Botta, from 

the 27th of January to the 16th of April. The exhibition 

curator is Massimo Scaringella and is an installation involving 

sound, sculpture and paintings. The museum is 

located at Av. Grau 1511, Barranco. 

COLDPLAY IN CONCERT 

The pop rock band Coldplay are playing in Lima on the 

5th of April. This concert is part of their A Head Full of 

Dreams tour, which is taking the band to several countries 

in Latin America and Europe. The concert will be held 

in Lima’s National Stadium and tickets are on sale from 

www.teleticket.com.pe. 

TAME IMPALA IN CONCERT 

Tame Impala to appear in Lima for the first time. On 

the 15th of March this Australian band formed in 

2007 will play on the esplanade of the Parque de la 

Exposicion as part of its Let It Happen tour. The Indie 

rock band, headed by Kevin Parker, has become 

famous for its psychodelic style. Tickets are on sale 

from www.teleticket.com.pe.

(Enchanted Rock), on Peru’s North Coast, has been a source of local legends since ancient times.

UJ #10 - Beaches

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