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T H E<br />

EQUALIZER<br />

B E C A U S E N O T A L L D I V E R S W E R E C R E A T E D E Q U A L<br />

ISSUE SEVEN<br />

Sep-Oct 2011<br />

**<strong>FREE**</strong><br />

Luxor’s Ancient His<strong>to</strong>ry Red Sea Sharks<br />

• Diving in Fury Shoals<br />

• Water Water Everywhere...<br />

• Meeting Egypt’s Tribes<br />

• The His<strong>to</strong>ry of Luxor<br />

• Species Focus - Sharks<br />

• Red Sea news & calendar<br />

• Reef & wreck briefings<br />

• Pho<strong>to</strong> <strong>contest</strong> results<br />

• Narcosis corner<br />

• and more...<br />

<strong>**Enter</strong> <strong>our</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong> <strong>contest</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>win</strong> a <strong>mini</strong>-<strong>safari</strong> <strong>trip</strong>**


THE EQUALIZER<br />

ISSUE SEVEN - SEP/OCT 2011<br />

CONTENTS<br />

REGULARS<br />

07 Dive Profile<br />

08 Wreck Briefing<br />

10 Reef Briefing<br />

12 Species Focus<br />

48 Pho<strong>to</strong>graphy Focus<br />

52 Pho<strong>to</strong> Contest<br />

56 Narcosis Corner<br />

NEWS<br />

18 Red Sea News<br />

18 Red Sea Calendar<br />

22 Environmental News<br />

SELECTED FEATURES<br />

26 Laid Back in Fury Shoals<br />

30 Going Sideways<br />

34 Dehydration Demystified<br />

40 Egyptian Life<br />

42 Surface Interval<br />

46 Marine Park Focus<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011<br />

10<br />

12<br />

26<br />

40<br />

30


Cover Pho<strong>to</strong>:<br />

School of Red Sea Fusiliers<br />

by James Dawson<br />

Anders Jälmsjö<br />

I have worked as a dive guide/instruc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

for many years and I still love every<br />

second of it. I have about 3.500 dives in<br />

the Red Sea under my belt and I’m still<br />

excited every time I’m about <strong>to</strong> jump in<br />

the water.<br />

I’m very interested in marine life and try<br />

<strong>to</strong> learn as much as possible about the<br />

species I see. If I can’t tell you what it<br />

was we saw during <strong>our</strong> dive, most likely<br />

I’ll have the book <strong>to</strong> find out.<br />

MEET THE TEAM<br />

James Dawson<br />

I had always wanted <strong>to</strong> dive and first got<br />

my opportunity on a holiday in Kenya<br />

back in 1999. Since those first few<br />

breaths underwater, I knew it wouldn’t<br />

be a one-off.<br />

Since living in Egypt, I have worked as<br />

a guide and instruc<strong>to</strong>r in most areas<br />

and have been fortunate enough <strong>to</strong> see<br />

some amazing sights and experience<br />

many wonderful dives. There’s<br />

always something new <strong>to</strong> look for and<br />

somewhere different <strong>to</strong> dive.<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

Jennie Frank & Göran Bergman: Swedish dive instruc<strong>to</strong>rs running<br />

H2O Diving in Lund, Sweden. Often arranging dive holidays <strong>to</strong> the Red Sea and<br />

other destinations.<br />

Georgina Cole: Georgina is a member of Tropical Gangsters DIve Club, a<br />

club for El Gouna and Hurghada residents <strong>to</strong> meet up for diving, snorkelling, social<br />

activities and holidays<br />

If you’ve missed any issues of The EQUALIZER, you can<br />

download them for free at www.<strong>aziab</strong><strong>media</strong>.com<br />

THE EQUALIZER - equalizer@<strong>aziab</strong><strong>media</strong>.com<br />

Distributed by Aziab Media Ltd<br />

Issue Seven - Sep/Oct 2011<br />

The EQUALIZER. The views expressed herein are those of the author exclusively. Edi<strong>to</strong>rial contributions are welcome and should be sent <strong>to</strong> The<br />

EQUALIZER. All due care will be taken with material submitted, but the magazine and publishers cannot be held responsible for loss or damage.<br />

The EQUALIZER assumes no responsibility <strong>to</strong> return unsolicited edi<strong>to</strong>rial, graphic or other material. All rights in letters, e-mails and unsolicited<br />

and graphic material will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes, and material will be subject <strong>to</strong> The<br />

EQUALIZER’s unrestricted right <strong>to</strong> edit and comment edi<strong>to</strong>rially. The EQUALIZER is fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted in<br />

whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. The EQUALIZER retains the right <strong>to</strong> publish y<strong>our</strong> material in all <strong>media</strong>, including and<br />

without limitation, the Internet. Some of the activities covered in this magazine carry a significant risk of injury or death. Undertake them only with<br />

proper instruction, training or equipment. While reasonable precautions have been taken <strong>to</strong> ensure the accuracy of advice and information given<br />

<strong>to</strong> readers, the writers, edi<strong>to</strong>r, publisher and proprie<strong>to</strong>r cannot accept responsibility for any damages or inconvenience that may arise therefrom.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


EDITORIAL<br />

Welcome <strong>to</strong> the seventh issue of THE<br />

EQUALIZER.<br />

We’re busy celebrating <strong>our</strong> first birthday<br />

here at EQUALIZER <strong>to</strong>wers and we<br />

would like <strong>to</strong> thank everyone that<br />

has contributed <strong>to</strong> the magazine and<br />

supported us in <strong>our</strong> first year.<br />

We have some great issues planned for<br />

the next twelve months so don’t forget <strong>to</strong><br />

check each issue and see what’s going<br />

on in the Red Sea.<br />

This issue takes a look at the dive sites<br />

of Fury Shoals, diving with side mounted<br />

cylinders and the <strong>to</strong>pic of dehydration is<br />

investigated. You’re likely <strong>to</strong> learn some<br />

things that you didn’t know!<br />

We also welcome a new <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong> <strong>contest</strong><br />

sponsor, Colona Divers, who are offering<br />

the fantastic opportunity <strong>to</strong> <strong>win</strong> a <strong>mini</strong><strong>safari</strong><br />

in the Red Sea.<br />

The regular features are still here <strong>to</strong> keep<br />

you entertained and informed so read on<br />

and we hope you enjoy it.<br />

We’re off for another slice of birthday<br />

cake now before we start work on the<br />

next issue!<br />

As always, if there is anything you would<br />

like <strong>to</strong> see included in The EQUALIZER,<br />

please get in <strong>to</strong>uch with us at;<br />

equalizer@<strong>aziab</strong><strong>media</strong>.com<br />

Anders & James<br />

Mike Braun<br />

Age: Old enough <strong>to</strong> know better, but<br />

young enough <strong>to</strong> still do it anyway!<br />

Lives in Hurghada<br />

General Manager of Emperor Divers<br />

When did you start diving?<br />

MB: 1984<br />

Why did you start diving?<br />

MB: Because <strong>win</strong>dsurfing was just <strong>to</strong>o<br />

expensive at the time<br />

How long have you been in the Red<br />

Sea?<br />

MB: Since the start of 1997, but I had<br />

visited on holiday before that<br />

Which is y<strong>our</strong> fav<strong>our</strong>ite dive site in<br />

the Red Sea, and why?<br />

MB: Small Giftun drift in Hurghada.<br />

There are beautiful fan corals and you<br />

can glide past them all with the current<br />

What was y<strong>our</strong> most memorable<br />

dive?<br />

MB: A dive in January 1995 at Watamu<br />

in Kenya where we had 20 whale<br />

sharks and a large group of mantas<br />

as well. We had been sat at the dive<br />

centre with binoculars and we saw<br />

their fins break the surface. We got<br />

kitted up and had the dive of <strong>our</strong> lives<br />

If you could be a marine species,<br />

what would you be?<br />

MB: Something big. I would like <strong>to</strong><br />

be a shark, hammerheads are one<br />

of my fav<strong>our</strong>ites so I’d like <strong>to</strong> be a<br />

hammerhead. The trouble is they are<br />

being caught for their fins - something<br />

we have <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p before it’s <strong>to</strong>o late<br />

RED SEA LEGENDS<br />

DIVE PROFILE<br />

What do you think is the biggest threat<br />

<strong>to</strong> the Red Sea?<br />

MB: Illegal fishing that has increased<br />

dramatically in recent years<br />

Who is y<strong>our</strong> dream Buddy, and why?<br />

MB: If I’m honest it would be myself. I<br />

love <strong>to</strong> be alone underwater but if I have<br />

<strong>to</strong> have a buddy then I would only ever<br />

choose my fiancée Cat<br />

What’s on y<strong>our</strong> bedside table?<br />

MB: I don’t have one but if I did it would<br />

have my telephone on it.<br />

What are you doing in 10 years?<br />

MB: If I’m still alive, hopefully living as<br />

a kept man from the money that Cat’s<br />

business has made<br />

Mike hard at work in the Emperor Divers office<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


MARINE LIFE OF THE RED SEA<br />

SPECIES FOCUS<br />

Sharks of the Red Sea<br />

words by James Dawson, <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs by Dray van Beeck<br />

Sharks have been branded as the bad<br />

guys of the sea throughout his<strong>to</strong>ry. Horror<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ries about this monster of the deep are<br />

widespread and legendary.<br />

However the shark is a preda<strong>to</strong>r at the<br />

<strong>to</strong>p of the food chain just as the lion is on<br />

land. It swims with a serene grace and<br />

has developed over millions of years <strong>to</strong><br />

the pinnacle of evolution. To put the scare<br />

s<strong>to</strong>ries in<strong>to</strong> perspective, there are more<br />

deaths each year from falling coconuts<br />

than there are as the result of shark<br />

attacks.<br />

Sharks are found all over the world and<br />

there are more than 440 different species.<br />

The Red Sea has more than thirty of these<br />

species waiting <strong>to</strong> be found by divers.<br />

The sharks you may see on y<strong>our</strong> next dive<br />

<strong>trip</strong> will vary depending upon the time of<br />

year and where in the Red Sea you visit.<br />

Here, we look at the biology of sharks and<br />

highlight some of the key aspects in the<br />

evolution of sharks over millions of years.<br />

Background: A tiger<br />

shark shows off its<br />

s<strong>trip</strong>ed pattern<br />

Right: The typical<br />

ana<strong>to</strong>my of most shark<br />

species<br />

While different species of shark can have<br />

different shapes, habits, terri<strong>to</strong>ries and<br />

feeding patterns, there are some common<br />

traits that are found in all shark species.<br />

Shape<br />

There is no single shape that encompasses<br />

all sharks since evolution has created<br />

the best shape for each species’ habitat<br />

and environment. Almost all sharks do<br />

share some common characteristics and<br />

the diagram below illustrates the general<br />

physiology of a shark.<br />

Tails (Caudal Fin)<br />

Variations in the shape of different species<br />

are most noticeable in the development of<br />

the tail (or caudal fin).<br />

Pelagic sharks (such as the hammerhead<br />

or oceanic whitetip) spend their life<br />

swimming in open water and the tail has<br />

evolved <strong>to</strong> provide efficient propulsion<br />

with <strong>mini</strong>mal effort. Due <strong>to</strong> the shape of<br />

the tail the upper lobe is naturally more<br />

powerful and each thrust actually pushes<br />

the shark down.<br />

Opposite from <strong>to</strong>p left: The distinctive shape of the hammerhead shark, a zebra shark rests on the<br />

seabed, blacktip reef shark, and an oceanic whitetip shark cruising near the surface with divers<br />

Benthic species (such as the zebra shark)<br />

that spend more time resting on the bot<strong>to</strong>m<br />

have evolved <strong>to</strong> suit their specific needs<br />

and have almost lost the lower lobe of the<br />

tail. This allows easier movement across<br />

the seabed without hindrance from their<br />

tail.<br />

Species such as the Thresher family have<br />

evolved their tail <strong>to</strong> hunt fish by using the<br />

extremely long upper lobe <strong>to</strong> stun their<br />

prey before turning back and simply<br />

picking up the driftng fish.<br />

Skin<br />

Shark’s skin is covered with placoid scales<br />

(also called dermal denticles) that create<br />

tiny vortices that make swimming more<br />

efficient by reducing drag.<br />

The scales cannot increase in size but<br />

when they are lost (sharks can lose up <strong>to</strong><br />

20,000 each year) new ones form that are<br />

larger as the shark grows.<br />

Shark skin will feel smooth when felt<br />

from head <strong>to</strong> tail since it is designed <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>mini</strong>mise drag, but when felt from tail <strong>to</strong><br />

head they have a rough sandpaper like<br />

texture. Certain sharks are used by small<br />

fish that will rub against the grain of the<br />

scales <strong>to</strong> remove parasites from their own<br />

body.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Sense Organs<br />

Sight<br />

Sharks have eyesight that is<br />

well adapted <strong>to</strong> their marine<br />

environment. They have a tissue<br />

called the tapetum lucidum behind<br />

the retina which reflects light<br />

back <strong>to</strong> it. This enhances vision in<br />

dark waters but the effectiveness<br />

varies by species. They are also<br />

able <strong>to</strong> switch between monocular<br />

(magnifying) and stereoscopic<br />

(depth perception) vision at any<br />

time.<br />

Some species of shark have nictitating<br />

membranes which cover the eyes when<br />

the shark is hunting or being attacked as<br />

a form of protection. However, there are<br />

also species that roll their eyes back when<br />

striking prey <strong>to</strong> protect against damage.<br />

Smell<br />

Sharks have keen olfac<strong>to</strong>ry senses with<br />

some species able <strong>to</strong> detect as little as one<br />

part per million of blood in seawater. They<br />

are also able <strong>to</strong> distinguish between the<br />

scents of their prey and other secretions<br />

that will not stimulate a feeding response.<br />

Hearing<br />

A small opening on either side of the<br />

shark’s head leads directly in<strong>to</strong> the inner<br />

ear through a small channel. The lateral<br />

line shows a similar arrangement and<br />

illustrates the common origin of these two<br />

vibration and sound detecting organs.<br />

Lateral Line<br />

This runs down the length of the body in<br />

most fish and detects motion or vibration<br />

in the water. Sharks have also been<br />

known <strong>to</strong> use their lateral line as an<br />

electrorecep<strong>to</strong>r (in conjuction with the<br />

Ampullae of Lorenzini) <strong>to</strong> detect magnetic<br />

fields.<br />

Background: A thresher shark approaches the<br />

camera. Above: The gentle giant whale shark<br />

Range: Throughout Red Sea<br />

Size: Varies from 1.7m (Whitetip<br />

reef shark) up <strong>to</strong> 14m (Whale shark)<br />

Depth: Some species are known <strong>to</strong><br />

go as deep as 500m (Silky shark) but<br />

many species are seen shallower than<br />

30m with several most often sighted near<br />

the surface<br />

Hazards: While there have been<br />

recorded shark attacks in the Red Sea,<br />

the risk is still very slight if you follow some<br />

simple guidelines. For more information on<br />

these steps, please see the next page.<br />

Ampullae of Lorenzini<br />

These electrorecep<strong>to</strong>r organs number in<br />

the hundreds <strong>to</strong> thousands and are used<br />

<strong>to</strong> detect the electromagnetic fields that<br />

all living things produce. Sharks have<br />

the greatest electrical sensitivity of any<br />

animal and can use this sense <strong>to</strong> find prey<br />

or navigate using the Earth’s magnetic<br />

fields.<br />

If you would like <strong>to</strong> learn more about some<br />

of the shark species that can be found in<br />

the Red Sea, why not download the Aziab<br />

Media app for iPad and iPhone. More<br />

details can be found opposite.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011<br />

Aqua Life Images<br />

The ideal reference companion for any diver. A fully<br />

illustrated fish identification manual<br />

The result of five years of underwater<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy and information collected by<br />

award <strong>win</strong>ning Dutch <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>grapher Dray<br />

van Beeck. This app for both iPad and<br />

iPhone is one of the most comprehensive<br />

underwater references available.<br />

Ideal for marine biologists, divers or simply<br />

if you wish <strong>to</strong> learn more about what goes<br />

on beneath the waves.<br />

Sharks of the Red Sea<br />

An illustrated guide <strong>to</strong> the common species<br />

Developed by<br />

Sharks of the Red Sea is a pocket reference<br />

for divers and underwater <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphers,<br />

or just those who are curious about these<br />

amazing creatures.<br />

This app for both iPad and iPhone is fully<br />

illustrated with <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs from award<br />

<strong>win</strong>ning <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphers. With this guide<br />

you’ll learn more about the species of<br />

shark often seen in the Red Sea.<br />

Available from


Image Credit: Dray van Beeck<br />

DIVING WITH SHARKS<br />

GUIDELINES FOR SAFE<br />

SHARK ENCOUNTERS<br />

In time for the start of the autumn shark<br />

season, here are some rules <strong>to</strong> follow<br />

when entering water where sharks are<br />

present or likely <strong>to</strong> be encountered.<br />

Remember, you are entering the realm<br />

of highly evolved and perfectly adapted<br />

open-ocean preda<strong>to</strong>rs, who should be<br />

treated with respect and caution.<br />

While the risks in diving with sharks are<br />

<strong>mini</strong>mal, follo<strong>win</strong>g certain behavi<strong>our</strong>al<br />

rules helps <strong>to</strong> avoid potentially stressful<br />

or even dangerous situations.<br />

• Feeding or baiting sharks is<br />

illegal throughout the Egyptian<br />

Red Sea. If you feel there is any<br />

sign of feeding activity in the<br />

area;<br />

do not enter the water<br />

• Only enter the water if you are<br />

comfortable with the situation<br />

and confident that you can stay<br />

calm.<br />

• Avoid any quick, jerky or erratic<br />

movements.<br />

• You are most vulnerable at the<br />

surface so descend quickly once<br />

in the water and moni<strong>to</strong>r y<strong>our</strong><br />

depth during the dive.<br />

• When you want (or need) <strong>to</strong> leave<br />

the water, do so in a calm and<br />

orderly fashion and remember<br />

<strong>to</strong> follow standard safe diving<br />

practices.<br />

• Avoid rapid ascents, especially if<br />

there is a shark directly beneath<br />

you.<br />

• Most sharks that are likely <strong>to</strong><br />

come close <strong>to</strong> divers are found<br />

in open water rather than<br />

near the reef. If you don’t feel<br />

comfortable, swim near the reef<br />

and if conditions allow, surface<br />

next <strong>to</strong> the reef <strong>to</strong> avoid attention<br />

from curious sharks.<br />

• Do not try <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>uch or in any way<br />

harass any shark. Also ensure<br />

that you always leave the shark<br />

room <strong>to</strong> swim away and don’t<br />

block off any exits.<br />

• Do not be alarmed if a shark<br />

begins <strong>to</strong> calmly circle you.<br />

Ensure that you turn with it and<br />

maintain visual contact.<br />

• Stay alert and look around<br />

you from time <strong>to</strong> time <strong>to</strong> see if<br />

another shark is approaching<br />

you. As preda<strong>to</strong>rs, sharks will try<br />

<strong>to</strong> approach unknown objects<br />

unseen as part of their natural<br />

behavi<strong>our</strong>.<br />

• Generally, sharks are more<br />

reluctant <strong>to</strong> closely approach<br />

groups of divers than individuals.<br />

Background: A diver encounters an Oceanic<br />

whitetip shark<br />

Right: The whale shark code of conduct<br />

Whale Sharks are passive creatures and can be agitated by aggressive behavi<strong>our</strong><br />

such as being <strong>to</strong>uched, or chased. It is as much a diver’s responsibility as anyone’s<br />

<strong>to</strong> ensure the survival of Whale Sharks for future generations. This means causing<br />

<strong>mini</strong>mal disturbance <strong>to</strong> the sharks when approaching by boat or when diving. Although<br />

Whale Sharks are harmless, their sheer size makes it necessary <strong>to</strong> exercise caution<br />

around them, especially at the tail end.<br />

Divers need <strong>to</strong> be aware of any local regulations or pro<strong>to</strong>cols set by the dive organisation<br />

regarding behavi<strong>our</strong> around Whale Sharks before entering the water. Regardless<br />

of whether there are any regulations are in place, please follow these general<br />

guidelines developed and promoted by The Shark Trust, the Australian Department of<br />

Conservation and Land Management and PADI and the Project AWARE Foundation,<br />

both for y<strong>our</strong> own safety and for the safety of the Sharks.<br />

Swimmers and divers<br />

WHALE SHARK<br />

CODE OF CONDUCT<br />

reprinted c<strong>our</strong>tesy of The Shark Trust<br />

• Do not attempt <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>uch, ride, or<br />

chase a Whale Shark<br />

• Do not restrict normal movement<br />

or behavi<strong>our</strong> of the Shark<br />

• Maintain a <strong>mini</strong>mum distance of 3<br />

metres from the Whale Shark<br />

• Do not undertake flash <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy<br />

• Do not use underwater mo<strong>to</strong>rised<br />

diver propulsions<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


RED SEA NEWS<br />

** NEWS **<br />

Image Credit: Emperor Divers<br />

Emperor is leaving Marina<br />

Lodge and will open their<br />

new dive centre in the Marsa<br />

Alam area on the 1st Oc<strong>to</strong>ber.<br />

Situated in a new seafront hotel,<br />

Moreen Beach, the centre is 20<br />

km south of the airport. Moreen<br />

Beach is a 4 star hotel operated<br />

by Concord Hotels. Emperor’s<br />

hard boat <strong>trip</strong>s will operate as<br />

usual plus speedboat <strong>trip</strong>s <strong>to</strong><br />

the Abu Dabab offshore reef<br />

system just 15 minutes away.<br />

Luke Atkinson, Emperor Marsa<br />

Alam’s Manager commented,<br />

“Our operation in Port Ghalib will remain virtually the same with the addition of a super<br />

house reef at the Moreen Beach and easier access <strong>to</strong> Shaab Abu Dabab and Marsa<br />

Alam’s sites. We look forward <strong>to</strong> giving <strong>our</strong> guests more choice, memorable diving<br />

and the same cus<strong>to</strong>mer-focused service”.<br />

Divers in Ras Mohammed on the 19th August were treated <strong>to</strong> a very friendly whale<br />

shark sighting. One group saw it on Yolanda Reef and another in Jack Fish Alley. In<br />

fact it was more than a sighting, as it seemed <strong>to</strong> be quite happy hanging around for<br />

some time with many of the divers.<br />

Image Credit: Dray van Beeck<br />

It seems like Sailfish are<br />

getting more common around<br />

<strong>our</strong> dive sites. Jilly, an<br />

Instruc<strong>to</strong>r at Ocean College<br />

Sharm el Sheikh, reports<br />

an encounter with a Sailfish<br />

and Crowley of Sinai Divers<br />

was lucky enough <strong>to</strong> see five<br />

Sailfish on one dive. There are<br />

also reports of Manta, Whale<br />

Shark and even Tiger Sharks<br />

around Ras Mohammed.<br />

Dray Van Beeck – dive guide<br />

at blue o two even saw a<br />

Whale Shark at Abu Nuhas.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011<br />

RED SEA CALENDAR:<br />

** CALENDAR **<br />

Oceanic Whitetip Sharks<br />

Oceanic Whitetip Sharks (Carcharhinus longimanus) start <strong>to</strong><br />

appear regularly around offshore deep water reefs such as<br />

Elphins<strong>to</strong>ne and Brother Islands, between Oc<strong>to</strong>ber and February.<br />

These curious sharks are usually found near the surface<br />

investigating the sounds and smells of dive boats and will often<br />

swim close <strong>to</strong> divers.<br />

Thresher Sharks<br />

The Pelagic Thresher (Alopias pelagicus) prefers slightly cooler<br />

waters and tends <strong>to</strong> remain in deeper areas during the summer.<br />

As the water temperature begins <strong>to</strong> drop, they are more frequently<br />

seen within recreational diving depths. A shy and nervous shark,<br />

divers will need <strong>to</strong> stay calm and move slowly <strong>to</strong> allow them <strong>to</strong><br />

come close. Like the Oceanic Whitetip, they are most usually<br />

sighted near deep water reefs.<br />

What <strong>to</strong> look for in the coming months<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>: James Dawson<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>: James Dawson


NEWS (Continued)<br />

** NEWS **<br />

The last few months have seen several encounters with Hammerheads on Elphins<strong>to</strong>ne<br />

near Marsa Alam. It’s not completely unheard of, but the fact that they have stayed<br />

around for such a long time is somewhat surprising.<br />

When it comes <strong>to</strong> marine life it seems that everything has increased lately. Of c<strong>our</strong>se<br />

this is good news and I can personally report far more juvenile Whitetip Reef Sharks<br />

than I’ve seen in a long time. Especially <strong>to</strong> the south in areas like St. John’s, Abu<br />

Fandira, Ohrob and Fury Shoal but also around Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada.<br />

Also on the on local dives in Sharm El Sheikh the marine life is heaving. For example;<br />

whitetip reef shark on Ras Katy, Manta on Ras Um Sid and what were maybe the<br />

most surprised Open Water students in Egypt saw a Hammerhead on a shore dive<br />

from Sensa<strong>to</strong>ri Hotel on Open Water dive # 4.<br />

Clare Wilders - DIve Bunnie also tells us of<br />

some exciting news from Sharm El Sheik. “By<br />

the Umbi Dive Centre in Shark’s Bay there<br />

was a recent arrival, in fact several arrivals. A<br />

nest of turtle eggs has been incubating there,<br />

completely unbeknownst <strong>to</strong> the dive centre,<br />

and other beachgoers, for the last couple<br />

of months. And… this week they hatched!<br />

Auntie Alex and Bev both long time Sharm<br />

residents, <strong>to</strong>gether with a host of guest divers<br />

at the Umbi Dive Centre were treated <strong>to</strong> the<br />

rare and wonderful spectacle.<br />

It was the 23rd August in the late afternoon, and the little brood<br />

of endangered baby hawksbill turtles saw their first light of day<br />

and scuttled their way <strong>to</strong>wards the sea and a life on the waves.<br />

The picture here was taken by Paul and Darren Hobley, guests<br />

of Oonasdivers Ltd UK.<br />

Images by Paul and Darren Hobley<br />

The guys from the National Park were also called in, <strong>to</strong> assess the site, and there<br />

they found more un-hatched eggs that will be due in a week or so. Hopefully they will<br />

hatch during daylight h<strong>our</strong>s again, thus allo<strong>win</strong>g the guys at Umbi <strong>to</strong> pass the babies<br />

on <strong>to</strong> the National Park team. There they can be re-located <strong>to</strong> safety on Turtle Beach<br />

in the Ras Mohammed National Park. Known <strong>to</strong> be a turtle nesting site, this beach is<br />

a protected area, so there the babies will be sheltered until they are big and strong<br />

enough <strong>to</strong> venture forth on their own f<strong>our</strong> flippers.“<br />

For even more news and updates about all things Red Sea - visit<br />

www.<strong>aziab</strong>.com<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Research or An Exploited Loophole?<br />

by Anders Jälmsjö<br />

In 1973, Egypt signed a treaty with Convention on International Trade of<br />

Endangered Species (CITES), which included a ban of shark fishing and all<br />

trading with shark products. In 2005, a decree issued by the Egyptian government<br />

allowed the punishment of offenders violating this treaty.<br />

Despite the fishing of sharks being illegal<br />

in Egypt, it still continues <strong>to</strong> some extent in<br />

remote areas, which are difficult <strong>to</strong> patrol<br />

and moni<strong>to</strong>r. Inefficient enforcement of<br />

the law is causing a hidden damage <strong>to</strong><br />

the shark population, which in the future<br />

may prove devastating <strong>to</strong> one of the Red<br />

Sea’s most vulnerable as well as valuable<br />

species.<br />

With the prices of shark fins increasing as<br />

the sharks are disappearing, the problem<br />

is not likely <strong>to</strong> go away until it is <strong>to</strong>o late. To<br />

be fair, you can’t entirely put the blame on<br />

the fisherman for seizing the opportunity<br />

<strong>to</strong> put food on the family’s table. Much<br />

of the blame must lay with the consumer<br />

SHARK CATCH, TAG & RELEASE<br />

buying the end product and creating the<br />

demand. However, at the end of the day,<br />

here and now is where it happens and<br />

here and now is where we need <strong>to</strong> try <strong>to</strong><br />

s<strong>to</strong>p it.<br />

This summer I have visited areas such<br />

as St. John’s, Abu Fandira and Ohrob in<br />

the southern Egyptian Red Sea near the<br />

Sudanese border. These are areas rarely<br />

patrolled by authorities and on every <strong>trip</strong><br />

I have found and collected long-lines<br />

entangled in the reefs with large hooks<br />

attached by steel wires, designed for the<br />

purpose of catching sharks. Every <strong>trip</strong><br />

has revealed new lines indicating ongoing<br />

fishing.<br />

Another worrying observation is the<br />

presence of a so-called Catch, Tag and<br />

Release operation going on in the same<br />

areas. A small speedboat fitted out for<br />

sports fishing, has been seen and even<br />

been approaching dive<br />

boats asking if and where<br />

they have seen sharks.<br />

The explanation has been<br />

that they are conducting a<br />

scientific survey by catching<br />

sharks, putting a tag on them<br />

and then release them.<br />

Opposite: One of the<br />

speedboats that operates the<br />

Catch, Tag and Release system<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphed in the southern<br />

Egyptian Red Sea. This Page:<br />

Shark fin products on sale in<br />

the streets of Singapore that<br />

demand high prices and carry a<br />

higher cost<br />

The EQUALIZER has spoken <strong>to</strong> Elke<br />

Bojanowski a well renowned shark<br />

research expert in the Red Sea regarding<br />

the scientific value of such a project. “This<br />

is a common way <strong>to</strong> circumnavigate the<br />

laws of ‘No Shark Fishing’ in many parts<br />

of the world” she says and explains that<br />

very little scientific results come out of this<br />

kind of tagging.<br />

“Most of the time you completely exhaust<br />

the shark just by reeling it in <strong>to</strong> the boat,<br />

then, <strong>to</strong> make it worth anything, you need<br />

<strong>to</strong> get it in<strong>to</strong> the boat <strong>to</strong> collect data like<br />

sex, weight and length plus attach the<br />

tag. After this the animal is thrown back<br />

in<strong>to</strong> the sea where it almost doesn’t have<br />

the strength left <strong>to</strong> swim away. Quite often<br />

this shark actually falls prey <strong>to</strong> others of<br />

the same species.”<br />

If you think of it, the only way <strong>to</strong> retrieve a<br />

tag like this you need <strong>to</strong> again catch the<br />

shark which has <strong>to</strong> be done illegally. Who<br />

would report that they caught a shark <strong>to</strong><br />

help this study if it means that you’ll go<br />

<strong>to</strong> jail? “I can see no scientific use of this<br />

program!” says Elke.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


After these observations were<br />

reported <strong>to</strong> HEPCA (Hurghada<br />

Environmental Protection and<br />

Conservation Association), an<br />

investigation has been started and<br />

their Project Manager, Urte Friek<br />

says that no proof has been found<br />

that the Catch, Tag and Release<br />

program has been sanctioned by<br />

the Egyptian Authorities.<br />

“We urge liveaboard guides working<br />

in the area <strong>to</strong> help in collecting<br />

information, preferably <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs<br />

of any suspicious activities and<br />

send it <strong>to</strong> us” says Urte.<br />

The EQUALIZER will keep reporting on the<br />

development of this investigation.<br />

This Page: The gruesome effects of shark finning<br />

and the devastation caused <strong>to</strong> shark numbers by<br />

illegal fishing are clear <strong>to</strong> see from these pictures<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Daily Diving from Hamata<br />

by Anders Jälmsjö<br />

Over the years in Egypt my path has on a few occasions crossed with John, a<br />

j<strong>our</strong>nalist from UK. This time he’s back <strong>to</strong> write about diving with a rebreather<br />

and the chosen destination is the famous area of Fury Shoal. By chance I was<br />

present in the periphery again and when asked <strong>to</strong> join I jumped at the chance.<br />

The prospect of diving on my rebreather again was also an alluring fac<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

To dive Fury Shoals from the shore, you<br />

leave from the port of Hamata. I was in<br />

Hurghada so I had a f<strong>our</strong> and half h<strong>our</strong><br />

drive <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> where the action would be.<br />

We s<strong>to</strong>pped on the way for the obliga<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

pit s<strong>to</strong>p in El Quesir. If you pass through<br />

here on a Wednesday or Thursday you<br />

are likely <strong>to</strong> see trucks loaded with camels<br />

on their way <strong>to</strong> or from the Camel markets<br />

in Wadi Gemal and Shalateen.<br />

Along the way we s<strong>to</strong>pped here and there<br />

<strong>to</strong> take the opportunity <strong>to</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graph<br />

the stunning dessert landscape with its<br />

spectacular rock formations, <strong>win</strong>dblown<br />

vegetation and shifting sand dunes. At one<br />

point we even find a camel standing knee<br />

deep in sea water feeding on mangroves.<br />

We had a nice j<strong>our</strong>ney due south and 20<br />

minutes before we arrived we passed<br />

through Wadi Gemal National Park.<br />

The National Park is one of the world’s<br />

best places for bird watching with an<br />

exceptionally large population of sooty<br />

falcon.<br />

The coastline through Wadi Gemal is<br />

equally gorgeous with a more or less<br />

unbroken fringing reef all the way and I<br />

have <strong>to</strong> admit <strong>to</strong> the thought of taking a<br />

cylinder for a quick “dive-s<strong>to</strong>p” on the way<br />

back. Or maybe stay on land one extra<br />

day and take my scuba-kit for a camel<br />

ride in<strong>to</strong> the park and dive amongst the<br />

mangroves. Hmmm… tempting…<br />

Hamata is a village in the very south of<br />

Egypt, slightly north of the peninsula of<br />

Ras Banas and Port Bernice. Just off<br />

the coast is the famous region of Fury<br />

Shoals, which contains some of the most<br />

spectacular dive sites in the Southern Red<br />

Sea. These sites used <strong>to</strong> be accessible<br />

only by liveaboard but development over<br />

the years in the Hamata area now offer<br />

divers the option of diving this area from<br />

shore as well.<br />

Hamata itself is hardly more than a<br />

mosque, a school (financed by USAid), a<br />

coast guard office, some camels, a few<br />

donkeys and a bunch of goats, but most<br />

importantly a jetty for the dive boats. Just<br />

south of this metropolis is the Zabargad<br />

resort (named after the<br />

nearby island), which is<br />

where the dive centre is<br />

based.<br />

Main Picture: Macro life is plentiful in the Fury Shoals area<br />

Below: The long road south and the sign that welcomes visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> the park<br />

Zabargad Beach Resort has their own<br />

time zone and set their watches one h<strong>our</strong><br />

ahead of the rest of Egypt. Being<br />

as secluded as it is I suppose it<br />

makes sense <strong>to</strong> use some sort of<br />

“daylight saving h<strong>our</strong>” since there<br />

is no interference from the rest of<br />

the country. This means that we<br />

have <strong>to</strong> get up one h<strong>our</strong> earlier <strong>to</strong><br />

get on the transfer <strong>to</strong> the boat.<br />

For the first day <strong>our</strong> Dutch dive guide<br />

Leo takes us <strong>to</strong> Abu Galawa Kebir. This<br />

is where Thien-Sin, a Chinese tug boat,<br />

sunk in 1943 while deployed <strong>to</strong> help<br />

another boat in distress. Today it’s a nice<br />

little wreck with the stern resting on a flat<br />

sandy seabed on 17 metres and the bow<br />

almost sticking out of the water next <strong>to</strong> the<br />

reef.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011<br />

Image Credit: Leo Faasen


We had a very relaxed and nice day and<br />

made two dives, one on the wreck and<br />

one in a small lagoon in the main reef. To<br />

get in<strong>to</strong> this lagoon you swim through a<br />

narrow channel in the reef wall and end<br />

up in a cathedral ambience with a flat<br />

sandy bot<strong>to</strong>m surrounded by coral walls<br />

and a coral <strong>to</strong>wer reaching for the surface<br />

in the middle. Spectacular!<br />

For day two we’ve signed up for a special<br />

<strong>trip</strong> <strong>to</strong> Sataya, also know as ‘Dolphin<br />

Reef’. The j<strong>our</strong>ney is slightly longer and<br />

we start 06:15 (05:15 normal Egyptian<br />

time). We have breakfast on the boat<br />

and as we head south we chat with the<br />

Swedish bikini team who are also on the<br />

boat.<br />

When we arrive, I kit up and jump in with<br />

John and promise not <strong>to</strong> be in his way<br />

when he’s taking pictures. “I might need<br />

some <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s with a diver as well” he says<br />

and added “Why not use the Swedish<br />

super model”. I of c<strong>our</strong>se think he means<br />

the bikini team and turn around <strong>to</strong> look for<br />

them but when I can’t see them realise<br />

that it’s me he’s talking about.<br />

The dive site is the south-east corner of<br />

Sataya, a site I know well from my time<br />

on liveaboards, which starts as a wall and<br />

transforms in<strong>to</strong> a sloping coral garden,<br />

which then merges with the plateau.<br />

We slowly follow the coral garden and<br />

marvel at the wonderful condition of the<br />

hard corals. The beauty of being off the<br />

beaten track is that fewer divers visit<br />

these sites and it shows in the pristine<br />

reefs. As we return <strong>to</strong> the boat we’re both<br />

sure that we can hear dolphins but despite<br />

scanning the water, we can’t see them.<br />

After lunch we slowly cruise through the<br />

horseshoe shaped reef system <strong>to</strong> see we<br />

can find the dolphins we heard on the dive<br />

and before long we see their fins breaking<br />

the surface. These are not the common<br />

bottlenose dolphins that you more usually<br />

encounter in the Red Sea, but the slightly<br />

rarer spinner dolphins.<br />

A large pod swims past including a few<br />

juveniles. As they pass us they are<br />

jumping and spinning delighting the<br />

guests on board who are happy <strong>to</strong> take<br />

the opportunity <strong>to</strong> capture pictures they<br />

can show friends and family back home.<br />

Leo has planned Shaab Claudio for the<br />

second dive of the day, which just happens<br />

<strong>to</strong> be one of my absolute fav<strong>our</strong>ite dive<br />

sites in the area, if not the fav<strong>our</strong>ite. It’s a<br />

reef ascending from a flat seafloor at 19-<br />

22 metres and full of caves like a Swiss<br />

cheese.<br />

The arrangement was that I would again<br />

model for John and we had a great dive.<br />

We were swimming in and out through the<br />

maze of caves and tunnels and even if<br />

the <strong>win</strong>d and waves created weird surges<br />

inside the system, everyone was happy<br />

with their experience.<br />

For <strong>our</strong> last day of diving we visit two more<br />

local dive sites. We have a few new people<br />

on the boat so the first site will be a check<br />

dive. We go <strong>to</strong> Shaab Bohar and Shaab<br />

Hamam <strong>to</strong> let them ease in<strong>to</strong> their week of<br />

diving. I have <strong>to</strong> say that if these are the<br />

sites for check dives, then I’m more than<br />

impressed. The hard corals are in mint<br />

condition and there is an arch and a canyon<br />

on Shaab Hamam that is absolutely world<br />

class and the north side is covered with<br />

soft corals and gorgonians.<br />

Besides the obvious attractions like the<br />

sharks, dolphins, and dugong there is<br />

also a large amount of less conspicuous<br />

marine life <strong>to</strong> be found in Fury Shoal.<br />

The macro life is simply amazing. From<br />

the tiniest flatworms, nudibranchs or<br />

shieldslugs <strong>to</strong> gobies and Spanish dancers<br />

with companion shrimps all the way up<br />

<strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>nefish and frogfish. They are all<br />

competing for posing time in front of y<strong>our</strong><br />

camera.<br />

So all in all we have had three very nice<br />

diving days from Hamata. I wish it had<br />

been a week but work commitments called<br />

me back <strong>to</strong> Hurghada. One thing is sure<br />

though, I will be back in Hamata for some<br />

more relaxed and laid back diving in Fury<br />

Shoal.<br />

Clockwise from Top Left: The wreck of the<br />

Tien Hsin, The mosque in Hamata, One of the<br />

many cave systems in the area, Overview of<br />

the Fury Shoal region<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Going Sideways in the Red Sea<br />

by Jennie Frank and Göran Bergman<br />

During a wonderful week we had the privilege <strong>to</strong> join h2odiving from Lund,<br />

Sweden on a weeklong liveaboard with blue o two. The <strong>trip</strong> was targeting the<br />

wrecks in the North as well as Brothers Islands. With this itinerary we already<br />

knew from start that there were going <strong>to</strong> be a lot of wrecks as well as deeper<br />

reef dives.<br />

The normal choice would be a single tank,<br />

perhaps a 15 litre <strong>to</strong> get longer time or even<br />

a t<strong>win</strong> set <strong>to</strong> get extra long bot<strong>to</strong>m times.<br />

A t<strong>win</strong> set also offers extra safety in the<br />

form of separate first stages needed for<br />

wreck diving with advanced penetration.<br />

However, we decided not <strong>to</strong> go for any<br />

of the above mentioned alternatives but<br />

instead do the <strong>trip</strong> using two side mounted<br />

standard tanks.<br />

‘Side mount’ means that you have the<br />

tanks on the side of the body instead<br />

of having the tanks on y<strong>our</strong> back. This<br />

means that you can have extra gas as<br />

well as separate first stages needed for<br />

deeper dives or technical dives but the big<br />

advantage compared <strong>to</strong> a standard t<strong>win</strong><br />

set, is that you are a lot more flexible in a<br />

narrow passage inside a wreck or cave.<br />

LOOKING AT A TWIN SET ALTERNATIVE<br />

For people with back problems it can also<br />

be an alternative instead of having the<br />

tanks on their back. An added bonus is<br />

of c<strong>our</strong>se all the confused looks you will<br />

get from other divers who try <strong>to</strong> find the<br />

missing tank on y<strong>our</strong> back.<br />

Side mount diving started with cave divers<br />

wanting <strong>to</strong> get in<strong>to</strong> restricted areas where<br />

a standard back mounted t<strong>win</strong> set was<br />

just <strong>to</strong>o big. With most side mount rigs it is<br />

possible <strong>to</strong> easily push the tanks in front<br />

of you. With the tanks in front of the diver<br />

they are able <strong>to</strong> get in<strong>to</strong> passages which<br />

are no larger than the actual body of the<br />

diver. While this evolved in<strong>to</strong> an extreme<br />

form of technical diving, side mounted<br />

tanks are now becoming more and more<br />

popular among recreational divers.<br />

Above: Posing by the flag with the side mount<br />

configuration Left:Jenny and Göran between<br />

dives<br />

In the early days of side mount diving<br />

there was no commercial equipment<br />

availably, so divers had <strong>to</strong> build their own<br />

rig. Also, there were no c<strong>our</strong>ses, so the<br />

new side mount divers needed <strong>to</strong> learn<br />

how <strong>to</strong> use the equipment on their own.<br />

Today, there are a gro<strong>win</strong>g number of<br />

equipment manufacturers with ready <strong>to</strong><br />

use rigs, however since all divers are<br />

different most side mount divers make<br />

some adjustments and modifications for<br />

their personal needs and areas of usage.<br />

C<strong>our</strong>ses are now offered in side mount<br />

diving by a number of training agencies.<br />

Most side mount rigs have an extra<br />

‘buttplate’ attached with rails <strong>to</strong> which<br />

the tanks can be attached. The neck of<br />

the tank is attached with bungee cords,<br />

which make it possible <strong>to</strong> move the tanks<br />

in front of the diver without detaching the<br />

<strong>to</strong>p part from the BCD. The two tanks are<br />

completely independent of each other,<br />

with their own first stage, second stage<br />

and pressure gauge. The left tank also<br />

holds the low-pressure infla<strong>to</strong>r hose.<br />

During the <strong>trip</strong> we had many dives where<br />

we were happy <strong>to</strong> have <strong>our</strong> two tanks, for<br />

instance when diving the Rosalie Möller.<br />

The Rosalie Möller was a 108 metre long<br />

British cargo ship which was sunk during<br />

the Second World War. Now it lies on the<br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m of the Red Sea with its bow at 40<br />

metres and the stern at approximately 45<br />

metres. Here we could easily stay at the<br />

wreck when the others, who were using<br />

single tanks, had <strong>to</strong> end the dive early<br />

since they were running low on air.<br />

Hanging under an SMB on the safety s<strong>to</strong>p A diver explores the Rosalie Möller<br />

Also on more shallow dives such as the<br />

Chrisoula K at Abu Nuhas we had great<br />

use of the side mounted tanks. The<br />

Chrisoula K was a 98 metre long cargo<br />

ship that sank in 1981. She lies at the<br />

famous Abu Nuhas reef and the diving<br />

depth is quite moderate ranging from 4 <strong>to</strong><br />

26 meters. Here we had no real need for<br />

the extra gas we had with us.<br />

On the Chrisoula K you can easily make<br />

an h<strong>our</strong> dive on a single tank but going<br />

inside the narrow engine room with only<br />

a single tank is not <strong>to</strong> recommend. If<br />

something goes wrong inside the wreck<br />

you need the redundancy of separate first<br />

stages.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Time for some fun & games on the ascent line<br />

However, <strong>to</strong> be honest it was not at<br />

all dives we were happy <strong>to</strong> have side<br />

mounted tanks. At Brothers Island in the<br />

middle of the Red Sea a lot of the dives<br />

were made using Zodiacs <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> the end<br />

of the reef. In the water the side mounted<br />

tanks gave no problems, instead they<br />

made it possible <strong>to</strong> stay a bit longer at<br />

the deeper plateaus looking for the many<br />

species of sharks that roam around the<br />

isolated reef, but going in the Zodiac with<br />

two twelve litre tanks hanging on the side<br />

is not the easiest when there are some<br />

waves coming.<br />

After the dive when the zodiac picked us<br />

up the difference in getting in was not so<br />

big. The other divers <strong>to</strong>ok their BCDs off<br />

and sent them up <strong>to</strong> the crew in the zodiac.<br />

We kept <strong>our</strong>s on but unhooked the tanks<br />

and gave them <strong>to</strong> the crew.<br />

When we came back <strong>to</strong> blue Horizon the<br />

crew placed the other divers BCDs in<br />

their places and refilled them. We kept<br />

<strong>our</strong> BCD in <strong>our</strong> boxes and had only the<br />

two tanks up for refilling.<br />

An afternoon encounter with a Napoleon Wrasse<br />

When it was time for the next dive we just<br />

put on <strong>our</strong> BCDs and, at the dive deck, we<br />

attached the tanks. The blue Horizon has<br />

a really huge dive deck, which made the<br />

pre-dive preparations a lot easier.<br />

All in all we had a great week! The<br />

extra possibility and freedom that the<br />

side mount tanks gave us makes the<br />

choice of tanks for the next liveaboard<br />

an easy one.<br />

We will be back for another week and<br />

side mounted tanks will, of c<strong>our</strong>se,<br />

be the configuration next time as<br />

well.<br />

If you see us under the water, say<br />

hello. After all, we are easy <strong>to</strong><br />

recognise!<br />

Cruising over the wreck of the Numidia at Big Brother<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF LUXOR<br />

EGYPTIAN LIFE<br />

A Pho<strong>to</strong>graphic T<strong>our</strong> of Luxor<br />

Luxor was once the home of pharaohs and if you want <strong>to</strong> see a slice of ancient Egypt, then this is a must<br />

see destination. It is without doubt a city steeped in his<strong>to</strong>ry and a visit <strong>to</strong> Egypt wouldn’t be complete without<br />

a t<strong>our</strong> of its temples, <strong>to</strong>mbs and trinket shops;<br />

Clockwise from <strong>to</strong>p right: The col<strong>our</strong>ful riverboats of the Nile add <strong>to</strong> the sense of occassion, the lifelike<br />

face of Nefetari at Karnak Temple, the Colossi of Memnon that guard the entrance <strong>to</strong> the Valley of the<br />

Kings, a small selection of the statues that lined the roads in ancient Karnak, the Temple of Hatshepshut<br />

that was carved in<strong>to</strong> the mountains, Luxor Temples heritage illuminated by night, the unassuming setting of<br />

the Valley of the Kings where the Pharaohs were buried, and the alleyways of modern day Luxor where you<br />

can find a flav<strong>our</strong> of local life as well as a wide array of souvenirs.<br />

All Images: James Dawson<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Characters of<br />

Egypt Festival<br />

by Georgina Cole<br />

Having already booked a <strong>trip</strong> <strong>to</strong> their<br />

fav<strong>our</strong>ite dive camp at Marsa Nakari, south<br />

of Marsa Alam, members of the Tropical<br />

Gangsters Dive Club were interested <strong>to</strong><br />

hear about a three day festival happening<br />

in the desert just a few kilometres further<br />

south. Club member Christiana Taghian<br />

had visited the festival the previous year<br />

with her husband Hosein and highly<br />

recommended it. “You must go and visit<br />

this area” she said. “It is a wonderful<br />

opportunity <strong>to</strong> see the Egyptian tribal<br />

culture.”<br />

It was lucky that the festival began the<br />

day before the planned dive <strong>trip</strong> so<br />

arrangements were made <strong>to</strong> depart one<br />

day earlier. We were <strong>to</strong>o late <strong>to</strong> book<br />

online so <strong>to</strong>ok a gamble that there would<br />

still be available accommodation when<br />

we arrived. Driving in private cars it <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

around f<strong>our</strong> and a half h<strong>our</strong>s from El<br />

Gouna <strong>to</strong> reach Fustat Wadi El Gimal,<br />

the National Park 49 kilometres south<br />

of Marsa Alam. We were directed off the<br />

main road by T<strong>our</strong>ist Police and <strong>to</strong>wards<br />

the registration building. It wasn’t looking<br />

hopeful at reception <strong>to</strong> hire any tents as<br />

everything was fully booked<br />

but we paid for a day ticket and<br />

then proceeded another 10<br />

kilometres along a sand track<br />

through the desert and <strong>to</strong>wards<br />

the mountains <strong>to</strong> the festival.<br />

Upon arrival we were greeted<br />

with a cup of tea fresh from the<br />

fire from one of the tribesmen.<br />

All around the entrance were<br />

MEETING THE TRIBES OF EGYPT<br />

the different tribes’ shelters with the<br />

men sitting around chatting on blankets<br />

and smoking shishas. Many volunteer<br />

students from all over Egypt were helping<br />

with the organisation and were keen <strong>to</strong><br />

assist us with <strong>our</strong> enquiries about hiring a<br />

tent. We were in luck and they found us a<br />

three-man tent and a small igloo tent. We<br />

also hired sleeping bags but unfortunately<br />

all the mattresses were booked.<br />

Having sorted out <strong>our</strong> accommodation and<br />

unpacked a few items we then explored<br />

the festival. Around 45 tribes from the<br />

oases and deserts were invited <strong>to</strong> gather<br />

for this annual tradition. There were tribes<br />

from Siwa, Farafra,<br />

Aswan, El-Arish,<br />

Sharm El-Sheikh,<br />

Mount Sinai,<br />

Nuweiba and the<br />

Red Sea Mountain<br />

Range. During<br />

the afternoon they<br />

competed against<br />

each other in games<br />

like long jump, high<br />

jump and tug-ofwar.<br />

We then <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

prime position on<br />

the mountain side<br />

for the eagerly<br />

anticipated camel<br />

race at 4pm. Club<br />

Member Dave Taylor had climbed <strong>to</strong><br />

the <strong>to</strong>p of a nearby mountain <strong>to</strong> find the<br />

optimum view but was soon scurrying<br />

down again as the camels approached<br />

the finish line at more of a brisk trot rather<br />

than a gallop. “Was that it?” he said not <strong>to</strong>o<br />

impressed at the leisurely pace and large<br />

interval at which the follo<strong>win</strong>g competing<br />

camels and their boy jockeys arrived.<br />

Hardly Royal Ascot but very entertaining.<br />

Time <strong>to</strong> enjoy the sunset on a wagon<br />

drawn camel ride in<strong>to</strong> the peaceful desert<br />

before venturing in<strong>to</strong> the relaxation tent<br />

with <strong>our</strong> disguised gin and <strong>to</strong>nics! This<br />

large canvas structure was equipped<br />

with comfy sofas, Egyptian lamps and<br />

old artefacts scattered around creating a<br />

wonderful atmosphere. We enjoyed the<br />

barbecued chicken and salads for dinner<br />

and then each tribe <strong>to</strong>ok turns <strong>to</strong> entertain<br />

the crowd under the stars with their<br />

musical instruments as well as singing<br />

and dancing. The bands played for several<br />

h<strong>our</strong>s enc<strong>our</strong>aged by the clapping crowd<br />

and the Tropical Gangster Girls showed<br />

off their belly dancing skills enc<strong>our</strong>aged<br />

by the gin and clapping tribesmen!<br />

The music drew <strong>to</strong> a close and everyone<br />

retired <strong>to</strong> their tents. Drifting peacefully <strong>to</strong><br />

sleep with the sound of distant drums from<br />

the tribal sleeping area and <strong>to</strong> a chap from<br />

Los Angeles serenading the night gently<br />

with his saxophone. It wasn’t easy <strong>to</strong> get<br />

comfortable on the hard desert ground<br />

so we awoke early <strong>to</strong> the smell of wood<br />

smoke and camels. I stuck my head out<br />

of my tiny igloo tent just after sunrise and<br />

was greeted with “Hello Georgina!” I was<br />

surprised <strong>to</strong> find that in<br />

the tent next <strong>to</strong> me was<br />

Emad Ibrahim, the El<br />

Gouna Library Manager,<br />

wrapped in a <strong>to</strong>wel and<br />

off <strong>to</strong> the shower block.<br />

Small world!<br />

Clockwise from <strong>to</strong>p: A hard fought tug-of-war <strong>contest</strong> is one of the many activities during the<br />

festival, Tribesman gather for a friendly game, enjoying a camel-drawn carriage ride at the end of<br />

the day, the camel racing is one of the highlights of the weekend, if not raced at full speed!<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Breakfast was purchased by the item and<br />

included bread, cheese, beans, eggs and<br />

salad. Quite pricey, but all the profits<br />

from the festival go <strong>to</strong>wards preserving<br />

and spreading environmental and cultural<br />

awareness. It helps <strong>to</strong> transport 350 tribe<br />

members <strong>to</strong> the festival and provide all<br />

the facilities at the campsite. It also funds<br />

the camel race, which gives a much<br />

needed income <strong>to</strong> the tribesmen. We sat<br />

around the fire drinking Ethiopian coffee<br />

made from ground coffee beans and<br />

ginger served straight from the hot ashes.<br />

Powerful stuff and a great kick start <strong>to</strong> the<br />

day.<br />

As well as the races there are lectures<br />

<strong>to</strong> attend <strong>to</strong> learn more about cus<strong>to</strong>ms<br />

and traditions, tribal law, poetry and<br />

astronomy. We decided <strong>to</strong> continue <strong>to</strong><br />

the coolness of the Red Sea and <strong>to</strong> <strong>our</strong><br />

luxurious and spacious tents at Marsa<br />

Nakari and venture underwater <strong>to</strong> wash<br />

away the dust and sand. “I really enjoyed<br />

that,” said Gounie resident and keen<br />

snorkeller Mandy Lloyd-Jones. “So glad<br />

that I experienced it. Well worth the <strong>trip</strong>.”<br />

For more information on the plans for<br />

2011 or <strong>to</strong> learn more about the festival,<br />

please visit the organiser’s website at:<br />

www.charactersofegypt.com<br />

Background: Up early for<br />

sunrise at the start of the day<br />

Right: The view of the festival<br />

tents from a nearby hill<strong>to</strong>p<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


MARINE PARK<br />

ZABARGAD & ROCKY ISLANDS<br />

Two Very Different Neighb<strong>our</strong>s<br />

by Anders Jälmsjö<br />

Sail straight out from the St. John’s Reef area in<strong>to</strong> the open sea and you will come<br />

upon two islands not far from each other geographically but hugely different in size<br />

and <strong>to</strong>pography. These are Zabargad and Rocky Islands, one big with high mountains<br />

and the other a speck in the ocean in comparison and flat as a pancake. Two things<br />

they do have in common though. They are both Egyptian Marine Protec<strong>to</strong>rates and<br />

hosts beautiful reefs for visiting divers.<br />

Zabargad Island Marine Park<br />

• Marine Protec<strong>to</strong>rate since:1986<br />

• Area: 4.976 km2<br />

• Entry fee: 5 US$ / Person / Day<br />

Now uninhabited, this island was in the<br />

past exploited by ancient Pharaohs,<br />

Romans and, more recently, the Egyptians<br />

who mined its precious green olivine<br />

mineral. Situated 46km south east of the<br />

Ras Banas peninsular and 20km due<br />

east of St John´s well known reef system,<br />

Zabargad is a large island encircled by<br />

reef and with several lagoons that offer<br />

liveaboards well protected moorings.<br />

There are plenty of alternative dive sites<br />

around Zabargad Island but the most<br />

commonly used are likely <strong>to</strong> be the south<br />

side with a gorgeous sloping coral garden,<br />

the Habili <strong>to</strong> the north east and the wreck<br />

of the Russian “Spy Ship” Khanka. The<br />

reefs on the south side are relatively<br />

shallow walls with coral pinnacles rising<br />

from the gentle slopes creating overhangs<br />

and swim throughs that add interest<br />

<strong>to</strong> the dive. The shelf next <strong>to</strong> the walls<br />

progressively plunges down in<strong>to</strong> deeper<br />

water. Most liveaboards only use this dive<br />

site for night dives but it’s actually really<br />

pretty and is worth a dive during the day<br />

as well.<br />

Zabargad is an interesting and important<br />

part of the Red Sea ecosystem as a well<br />

known breeding site for Green Turtles.<br />

Over 2,000 nests have been reported on<br />

the sandy beaches of this island. This<br />

is an extremely important and fragile<br />

process, which can easily be destroyed.<br />

It’s a good thing that this island is located<br />

far from shore and likely <strong>to</strong> escape t<strong>our</strong>ist<br />

developments, which has destroyed<br />

many of the breading beaches along the<br />

coastline.<br />

Rocky Island Marine Park<br />

• Marine Protec<strong>to</strong>rate since:1986<br />

• Area:0.176 km2<br />

• Entry fee: 5 US$ / Person / Day<br />

Just, over 5 km south east of Zabargad<br />

we find Rocky Island. This is a low island<br />

in contrast <strong>to</strong> the high peaks of Zabargad.<br />

The reef surrounding the Island plunges<br />

straight from the <strong>to</strong>p just beneath the<br />

surface down steep walls in<strong>to</strong> the<br />

abyss. Because Rocky is more exposed<br />

<strong>to</strong> weather and <strong>win</strong>d than Zabargad,<br />

liveaboards tend not <strong>to</strong> stay overnight<br />

here.<br />

Diving around Rocky Island is gorgeous<br />

with the traditional Red Sea beauty of soft<br />

coral and anthias. Basically you would<br />

check the currents and conditions and<br />

then dive the side most suitable, but in<br />

general there are always good alternative<br />

dives around the island. The north face<br />

takes the brunt of the prevailing weather<br />

and currents which might offer a slightly<br />

more challenging dive, but the flip side is<br />

the presence of numerous pelagic species<br />

notably hammerheads, grey reef sharks,<br />

as well as large groupers and Napoleon<br />

Wrasse. The coral growth is best on the<br />

east side with beautiful coral formations<br />

and a small plateau.<br />

Rocky is also the location of the wreck of<br />

the Steamship SS Maidan, an impressive<br />

152.4 m long cargo vessel. She made her<br />

final j<strong>our</strong>ney in 1923 and hit the southern<br />

shores of Rocky Island the night of June<br />

9th and sunk the next day in<strong>to</strong> deep water.<br />

Her passengers and crew climbed on<strong>to</strong><br />

the island and were rescued that same<br />

day.<br />

The position of the wreck was uncertain for<br />

a long time, but she was finally discovered<br />

in Oc<strong>to</strong>ber 2003, by Grant Searancke and<br />

Kimmo Hagman. They managed <strong>to</strong> get<br />

the first <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs and video footage of<br />

the wreck. The SS Maidan now lies at a<br />

depth of between 80 <strong>to</strong> 120 m accessible<br />

only <strong>to</strong> experienced Trimix divers.<br />

Top: Green Sea Turtles use Zabargad Island as one of their nesting beaches in the Red Sea<br />

Above: Rocky Island is less imposing than its neighb<strong>our</strong> Zabargad (Opposite)<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


Get Creative With<br />

Y<strong>our</strong> Lighting<br />

words and <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s by Dray van Beeck<br />

Selective lighting can give a great new<br />

atmosphere <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s. The easiest way<br />

is <strong>to</strong> use y<strong>our</strong> <strong>to</strong>rch <strong>to</strong> light a subject. This<br />

will give the subject light while the rest stays<br />

darker and has less col<strong>our</strong>.<br />

The help of y<strong>our</strong> buddy could make the<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy easier. If y<strong>our</strong> buddy holds the<br />

<strong>to</strong>rch and shines it on the subject, you can<br />

position the camera and have a more hands<br />

free approach.<br />

Sometimes it’s possible <strong>to</strong> position y<strong>our</strong> <strong>to</strong>rch<br />

behind a subject and lighting it this way from<br />

the back. A fan coral or feather stars are quite<br />

suitable for these kinds of <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s.<br />

Another possibility is using one of y<strong>our</strong><br />

strobes <strong>to</strong> backlight a subject. Either you use<br />

the strobe in slave mode or attached <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong><br />

camera. Experiment with the right angle, right<br />

position and amount of strobe light.<br />

The new rage from 2010 was the reinvention<br />

of a studio technique from more than 50 years<br />

ago - the “snoot”. Portrait <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphers in<br />

the forties and fifties used a cone shaped<br />

appendix over the lamps/strobes <strong>to</strong> create a<br />

darker area around the face. This technique<br />

can be used underwater <strong>to</strong> highlight a subject<br />

without the area around it - (of c<strong>our</strong>se you<br />

can also do this afterwards in editing software<br />

such as Adobe Pho<strong>to</strong>shop).<br />

A snoot, a cone you attach <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> strobe,<br />

can be bought or self-made. The size of the<br />

opening dictates how much of y<strong>our</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong> is<br />

illuminated.<br />

Left: A <strong>to</strong>rch was used <strong>to</strong> backlight this soft coral and<br />

bring out the detail in the stems<br />

Above: The anemonefish was highlighted by a dive<br />

<strong>to</strong>rch <strong>to</strong> make it stand out from the background<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY FOCUS<br />

Making a snoot is easy. Take a plastic bottle,<br />

cut away the bot<strong>to</strong>m half and paint it black.<br />

Find a way <strong>to</strong> attach it <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> strobe and you<br />

are ready <strong>to</strong> go. Keep the cap and make a<br />

small hole in it. For macro <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy this<br />

can give a neat small light area.<br />

Modern snoots that are available from<br />

good camera retailers, come with all the<br />

accessories you need.<br />

Snoots work very well if you use the spotting<br />

light of y<strong>our</strong> strobe. This way you can see<br />

where it focuses and where the snoot will<br />

Above (clockwise from <strong>to</strong>p left): An example of a homemade<br />

snoot, a shop bought snoot with accessories, the snoot fitted on the<br />

strobe for wide angle lighting, a lionfish illuminated by the spotlight<br />

appears <strong>to</strong> be performing on stage, a tube sponge <strong>to</strong>p lit by a snoot<br />

aim the light. The easiest “snooting” is with<br />

wide-angle <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy. Macro requires a<br />

lot of patience and positioning. It can be a<br />

good idea <strong>to</strong> use a <strong>trip</strong>od <strong>to</strong> offer even greater<br />

control.<br />

More tips and advice<br />

can be found in this<br />

new guide. Available<br />

as an app for both<br />

iPhone and iPad.<br />

Click here for details<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHER - Henrik Jonsson<br />

This month’s featured <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>grapher is Henrik Jonsson. Henrik used <strong>to</strong> live for the extreme types of dives in cold waters, low visibility<br />

and rusty wrecks. He has now mellowed and prefers more tropical waters <strong>to</strong> take his <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs. You can see more of Henrik’s<br />

work at his webste here www.f64.se<br />

All Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Henrik Jonsson<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


The <strong>win</strong>ners of the latest EQUALIZER <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong> <strong>contest</strong> are;<br />

FIRST PLACE - ERIC THOREN<br />

SECOND PLACE - JUN LAO<br />

THIRD PLACE - HENRIETTE EGE ANDERSEN<br />

FIRST PLACE - Eric Thoren<br />

3rd Place - Henriette Ege Andersen<br />

PHOTO CONTEST<br />

2nd Place - Jun Lao<br />

Congratulations <strong>to</strong> all the <strong>win</strong>ners and a big thank<br />

you <strong>to</strong> everyone who <strong>to</strong>ok the time <strong>to</strong> send in their<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs. The quality was very high but after a<br />

lot of deliberation, the judges all agreed on the final<br />

three. To enter, see the details opposite.<br />

COMPETITION RULES<br />

If you fancy y<strong>our</strong>self as a budding Alex<br />

Mustard or simply have a <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graph<br />

that you think can cut the mustard, why<br />

not share it with us?<br />

Each issue we will choose three<br />

underwater <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphs <strong>to</strong> be published<br />

in THE EQUALIZER, with the best of<br />

the three receiving a special prize. So if<br />

you’ve ever wanted <strong>to</strong> see y<strong>our</strong> fav<strong>our</strong>ite<br />

image in a magazine - this is y<strong>our</strong> chance.<br />

Please read the guidelines below before<br />

sending y<strong>our</strong> files <strong>to</strong> ensure that they<br />

meet the requirements.<br />

Y<strong>our</strong> file must be saved as a jpeg and<br />

be a maximum of 250kb in size.<br />

The image itself should be a <strong>mini</strong>mum<br />

of 500 pixels along the longest edge.<br />

Please rename the file so that it is y<strong>our</strong><br />

name (i.e. JamesDawson.jpg) and include<br />

in the body of y<strong>our</strong> e-mail any details you<br />

would like <strong>to</strong> add.<br />

Then simply e-mail y<strong>our</strong> images <strong>to</strong> us at<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong><strong>contest</strong>@<strong>aziab</strong><strong>media</strong>.com<br />

Our panel of judges will then select the<br />

<strong>to</strong>p images each issue <strong>to</strong> be published in<br />

the magazine.<br />

So don’t be shy. Send y<strong>our</strong> fav<strong>our</strong>ites <strong>to</strong><br />

us now and you could see y<strong>our</strong> work in<br />

the next issue of the magazine.<br />

Checklist<br />

• Image must have been taken<br />

underwater<br />

• Less than 250kb<br />

• At least 500 pixels on longest side<br />

• y<strong>our</strong>name.jpg<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


CONTEST PRIZE DETAILS<br />

PHOTO CONTEST PRIZE TERMS AND CONDITIONS<br />

The prize consists of one space on a three days/two nights <strong>mini</strong> <strong>safari</strong> with COLONA<br />

Divers in Hurghada, on any scheduled and confirmed departure, according <strong>to</strong><br />

availability.<br />

The prize must be claimed within one year of being contacted by the organisers.<br />

The prize is <strong>to</strong> be confirmed with COLONA Divers in Hurghada via email hurghada@<br />

colona.com within 60 days of <strong>win</strong>ning the prize.<br />

All communication regarding information<br />

about the prize should be obtained directly<br />

from COLONA Divers.<br />

The EQUALIZER magazine will contact the<br />

<strong>contest</strong> <strong>win</strong>ner and COLONA Divers so that<br />

the prize can be claimed and arrangements<br />

made directly with COLONA Divers.<br />

The EQUALIZER magazine is not<br />

responsible for the prize offered and is not<br />

connected <strong>to</strong> COLONA Divers in any way.<br />

The edi<strong>to</strong>r’s decision is final and no<br />

correspondence will be entered in<strong>to</strong>.<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011


The last few months are traditionally a very<br />

busy time in the dive industry out here in<br />

Egypt and I have had a <strong>to</strong>ugh time of it on<br />

two levels. First of all, I was working day<br />

in day out <strong>to</strong> deal with all of the divers and<br />

students we had at the dive centre, and<br />

then I have had <strong>to</strong> cope with the stresses<br />

and turmoil of a couple of days off after a<br />

long period of work. I’m not sure which was<br />

the more exhausting<br />

of the two!<br />

The work is busy,<br />

certainly, but you<br />

know that before<br />

you start and you<br />

have a chance <strong>to</strong><br />

mentally prepare for<br />

it. You can look at<br />

the scheduling board<br />

and say <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong>self,<br />

“I’ve got a busy day<br />

<strong>to</strong>morrow so I’d better<br />

get myself ready.”<br />

You can then plan <strong>to</strong><br />

have an early night <strong>to</strong><br />

ensure that you are<br />

fresh the next day.<br />

You don’t always<br />

seize the opportunity,<br />

but at least it’s there.<br />

When you start looking at the board and<br />

realise that you finally have some time off<br />

soon, y<strong>our</strong> mind starts <strong>to</strong> play tricks with<br />

you. Instead of focusing on <strong>to</strong>morrow’s<br />

task you begin a mental countdown <strong>to</strong> that<br />

next lie in. As it gets closer, the countdown<br />

switches from days <strong>to</strong> h<strong>our</strong>s and then you<br />

know you’re in trouble.<br />

NARCOSIS CORNER with Michael Onkers<br />

BACK TO WORK FOR A REST<br />

A light-hearted look at a few days off work in the Red Sea<br />

by Michael Onkers<br />

I had all the classic symp<strong>to</strong>ms last week.<br />

I was nearing two days off <strong>to</strong>gether<br />

(practically unheard of during peak<br />

season), but I knew deep down that I still<br />

had an open water c<strong>our</strong>se <strong>to</strong> get through. I<br />

won’t go in<strong>to</strong> details, but the mask (and for<br />

that matter, water) were not my student’s<br />

friend and it was one of those c<strong>our</strong>ses<br />

where I really had <strong>to</strong> earn my money.<br />

Finally the day<br />

came where I knew<br />

that leaving work<br />

that afternoon, it<br />

would be an entire<br />

62 h<strong>our</strong>s before<br />

I was back in the<br />

dive centre. My<br />

plan was <strong>to</strong> head<br />

home, do the<br />

washing, put some<br />

food in the fridge,<br />

settle down on the<br />

sofa and relax for<br />

a little while. What<br />

actually happened<br />

is still a bit of a blur<br />

but I remember<br />

there being shots<br />

and a problematic<br />

taxi ride involved.<br />

I woke late the next day and was not in my<br />

best physical shape. This was not a day<br />

for housework so the shopping, washing<br />

and tidying up were put on hold. I had just<br />

about enough in me <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> the sofa, turn<br />

on the TV and fall back <strong>to</strong> sleep as the<br />

opening credits for a seventies cop show<br />

were starting.<br />

After my nap I felt a lot better, so I thought<br />

I’d pop out <strong>to</strong> see some friends for a<br />

quiet night and a catch up. That became<br />

a bit fuzzy as well but I know that it was<br />

a different taxi driver that I upset on that<br />

night.<br />

I still don’t understand how it keeps<br />

happening <strong>to</strong> me. I went out with every<br />

intention of being home by eleven at<br />

the absolute latest, but there’s always<br />

someone else you bump in<strong>to</strong> that you<br />

haven’t seen for ages and have <strong>to</strong> have<br />

a quick drink with. I blame the natural<br />

sociability of the diving world myself.<br />

One more day off work and I still had<br />

a lot <strong>to</strong> do. It didn’t get done. It was<br />

another day of sofa, headaches, naps<br />

and very bad TV. I did buy some food<br />

for the flat. Admittedly, crisps, chocolate<br />

and a strange looking cake type thing<br />

(that I had <strong>to</strong> buy because it looked so<br />

intriguing) may not be considered the<br />

most balanced of diets but it did the trick.<br />

I even managed <strong>to</strong> get the laundry finished<br />

as well. Well, I say “finished“, but at least<br />

I put it in the machine. It may still have<br />

been a bit damp when I remembered<br />

the next morning while getting ready for<br />

work, but that’s the beauty of the climate<br />

here - everything dries so quickly.<br />

Not quite quickly enough for the taxi driver<br />

that <strong>to</strong>ok me <strong>to</strong> work though. He does<br />

have a slightly damp passenger seat and<br />

he wasn’t best pleased. It’s good <strong>to</strong> be<br />

back at work so that I can relax a bit.<br />

Happy Diving<br />

Mike Onkers<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011

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