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Get Creative With<br />

Y<strong>our</strong> Lighting<br />

words and <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s by Dray van Beeck<br />

Selective lighting can give a great new<br />

atmosphere <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s. The easiest way<br />

is <strong>to</strong> use y<strong>our</strong> <strong>to</strong>rch <strong>to</strong> light a subject. This<br />

will give the subject light while the rest stays<br />

darker and has less col<strong>our</strong>.<br />

The help of y<strong>our</strong> buddy could make the<br />

<strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy easier. If y<strong>our</strong> buddy holds the<br />

<strong>to</strong>rch and shines it on the subject, you can<br />

position the camera and have a more hands<br />

free approach.<br />

Sometimes it’s possible <strong>to</strong> position y<strong>our</strong> <strong>to</strong>rch<br />

behind a subject and lighting it this way from<br />

the back. A fan coral or feather stars are quite<br />

suitable for these kinds of <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>s.<br />

Another possibility is using one of y<strong>our</strong><br />

strobes <strong>to</strong> backlight a subject. Either you use<br />

the strobe in slave mode or attached <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong><br />

camera. Experiment with the right angle, right<br />

position and amount of strobe light.<br />

The new rage from 2010 was the reinvention<br />

of a studio technique from more than 50 years<br />

ago - the “snoot”. Portrait <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphers in<br />

the forties and fifties used a cone shaped<br />

appendix over the lamps/strobes <strong>to</strong> create a<br />

darker area around the face. This technique<br />

can be used underwater <strong>to</strong> highlight a subject<br />

without the area around it - (of c<strong>our</strong>se you<br />

can also do this afterwards in editing software<br />

such as Adobe Pho<strong>to</strong>shop).<br />

A snoot, a cone you attach <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> strobe,<br />

can be bought or self-made. The size of the<br />

opening dictates how much of y<strong>our</strong> <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong> is<br />

illuminated.<br />

Left: A <strong>to</strong>rch was used <strong>to</strong> backlight this soft coral and<br />

bring out the detail in the stems<br />

Above: The anemonefish was highlighted by a dive<br />

<strong>to</strong>rch <strong>to</strong> make it stand out from the background<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY FOCUS<br />

Making a snoot is easy. Take a plastic bottle,<br />

cut away the bot<strong>to</strong>m half and paint it black.<br />

Find a way <strong>to</strong> attach it <strong>to</strong> y<strong>our</strong> strobe and you<br />

are ready <strong>to</strong> go. Keep the cap and make a<br />

small hole in it. For macro <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy this<br />

can give a neat small light area.<br />

Modern snoots that are available from<br />

good camera retailers, come with all the<br />

accessories you need.<br />

Snoots work very well if you use the spotting<br />

light of y<strong>our</strong> strobe. This way you can see<br />

where it focuses and where the snoot will<br />

Above (clockwise from <strong>to</strong>p left): An example of a homemade<br />

snoot, a shop bought snoot with accessories, the snoot fitted on the<br />

strobe for wide angle lighting, a lionfish illuminated by the spotlight<br />

appears <strong>to</strong> be performing on stage, a tube sponge <strong>to</strong>p lit by a snoot<br />

aim the light. The easiest “snooting” is with<br />

wide-angle <strong>pho<strong>to</strong></strong>graphy. Macro requires a<br />

lot of patience and positioning. It can be a<br />

good idea <strong>to</strong> use a <strong>trip</strong>od <strong>to</strong> offer even greater<br />

control.<br />

More tips and advice<br />

can be found in this<br />

new guide. Available<br />

as an app for both<br />

iPhone and iPad.<br />

Click here for details<br />

THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011

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