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Characters of
Egypt Festival
by Georgina Cole
Having already booked a trip to their
favourite dive camp at Marsa Nakari, south
of Marsa Alam, members of the Tropical
Gangsters Dive Club were interested to
hear about a three day festival happening
in the desert just a few kilometres further
south. Club member Christiana Taghian
had visited the festival the previous year
with her husband Hosein and highly
recommended it. “You must go and visit
this area” she said. “It is a wonderful
opportunity to see the Egyptian tribal
culture.”
It was lucky that the festival began the
day before the planned dive trip so
arrangements were made to depart one
day earlier. We were too late to book
online so took a gamble that there would
still be available accommodation when
we arrived. Driving in private cars it took
around four and a half hours from El
Gouna to reach Fustat Wadi El Gimal,
the National Park 49 kilometres south
of Marsa Alam. We were directed off the
main road by Tourist Police and towards
the registration building. It wasn’t looking
hopeful at reception to hire any tents as
everything was fully booked
but we paid for a day ticket and
then proceeded another 10
kilometres along a sand track
through the desert and towards
the mountains to the festival.
Upon arrival we were greeted
with a cup of tea fresh from the
fire from one of the tribesmen.
All around the entrance were
MEETING THE TRIBES OF EGYPT
the different tribes’ shelters with the
men sitting around chatting on blankets
and smoking shishas. Many volunteer
students from all over Egypt were helping
with the organisation and were keen to
assist us with our enquiries about hiring a
tent. We were in luck and they found us a
three-man tent and a small igloo tent. We
also hired sleeping bags but unfortunately
all the mattresses were booked.
Having sorted out our accommodation and
unpacked a few items we then explored
the festival. Around 45 tribes from the
oases and deserts were invited to gather
for this annual tradition. There were tribes
from Siwa, Farafra,
Aswan, El-Arish,
Sharm El-Sheikh,
Mount Sinai,
Nuweiba and the
Red Sea Mountain
Range. During
the afternoon they
competed against
each other in games
like long jump, high
jump and tug-ofwar.
We then took
prime position on
the mountain side
for the eagerly
anticipated camel
race at 4pm. Club
Member Dave Taylor had climbed to
the top of a nearby mountain to find the
optimum view but was soon scurrying
down again as the camels approached
the finish line at more of a brisk trot rather
than a gallop. “Was that it?” he said not too
impressed at the leisurely pace and large
interval at which the following competing
camels and their boy jockeys arrived.
Hardly Royal Ascot but very entertaining.
Time to enjoy the sunset on a wagon
drawn camel ride into the peaceful desert
before venturing into the relaxation tent
with our disguised gin and tonics! This
large canvas structure was equipped
with comfy sofas, Egyptian lamps and
old artefacts scattered around creating a
wonderful atmosphere. We enjoyed the
barbecued chicken and salads for dinner
and then each tribe took turns to entertain
the crowd under the stars with their
musical instruments as well as singing
and dancing. The bands played for several
hours encouraged by the clapping crowd
and the Tropical Gangster Girls showed
off their belly dancing skills encouraged
by the gin and clapping tribesmen!
The music drew to a close and everyone
retired to their tents. Drifting peacefully to
sleep with the sound of distant drums from
the tribal sleeping area and to a chap from
Los Angeles serenading the night gently
with his saxophone. It wasn’t easy to get
comfortable on the hard desert ground
so we awoke early to the smell of wood
smoke and camels. I stuck my head out
of my tiny igloo tent just after sunrise and
was greeted with “Hello Georgina!” I was
surprised to find that in
the tent next to me was
Emad Ibrahim, the El
Gouna Library Manager,
wrapped in a towel and
off to the shower block.
Small world!
Clockwise from top: A hard fought tug-of-war contest is one of the many activities during the
festival, Tribesman gather for a friendly game, enjoying a camel-drawn carriage ride at the end of
the day, the camel racing is one of the highlights of the weekend, if not raced at full speed!
THE EQUALIZER Sep-Oct 2011