A Return to Paradise and its People - Durban
A Return to Paradise and its People - Durban
A Return to Paradise and its People - Durban
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DURBAN<br />
A <strong>Return</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Paradise</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> <strong>People</strong>
welcome t
<strong>to</strong> durban
you are here
Published by<br />
eThekwini Municipality<br />
Commissioned by<br />
Ntsiki Magwaza<br />
eThekwini Communications Unit<br />
Words <strong>and</strong> layout<br />
Peter Machen<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>graphy<br />
See pho<strong>to</strong> cred<strong>its</strong><br />
Printed by<br />
Art Printers<br />
Printed on<br />
Environmentally friendly Sappi Avalon Triple<br />
Green Supreme Silk paper<br />
ISBN 978-0-620-38971-6<br />
CONTENTS<br />
009 Foreword<br />
010 His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
016 City Plans<br />
026 Faith<br />
030 Commerce<br />
036 Eating<br />
042 Building<br />
048 Design<br />
054 Writing<br />
058 Art<br />
064 Music<br />
072 Dance<br />
076 Theatre<br />
080 Film<br />
084 Museums<br />
088 Getting Out<br />
092 Sport<br />
096 Mysteries<br />
100 Where <strong>to</strong> Stay<br />
102 Governance<br />
104 Etcetera
FOREWORD<br />
The face of <strong>Durban</strong> has changed<br />
dramatically over the past few years<br />
due <strong>to</strong> the massive investments in<br />
infrastructure upgrade that were kickstarted<br />
ahead of the 2010 Fifa World<br />
Cup. Many of the plans that were<br />
detailed in the previous edition of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
– A <strong>Paradise</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> <strong>People</strong> have now been completed <strong>and</strong> have<br />
helped <strong>to</strong> transform <strong>Durban</strong> in<strong>to</strong> a world class city that is praised by<br />
<strong>its</strong> citizens <strong>and</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs alike.<br />
The attractive Moses Mabhida stadium has become an iconic<br />
l<strong>and</strong>mark for the city, while the renovation of the beachfront has<br />
greatly exp<strong>and</strong>ed the promenade, which now stretches from Ushaka<br />
Marine World <strong>to</strong> Blue Lagoon, providing a rich experience for local<br />
<strong>and</strong> international <strong>to</strong>urists. Our transport system is undergoing<br />
continuous improvements <strong>and</strong> access in<strong>to</strong> <strong>and</strong> out of the city has<br />
improved with the construction of fly-over bridges <strong>and</strong> dedicated<br />
lanes for public transport vehicles. We have the br<strong>and</strong> new King<br />
Shaka International Airport, located in one of the most beautiful<br />
l<strong>and</strong>scapes of any airport in the world, <strong>and</strong> part of the expansive<br />
Dube Tradeport project which encourages export trade.<br />
Areas outside of central <strong>Durban</strong> are also receiving attention, with<br />
construction taking place at an accelerated pace from Hammersdale<br />
<strong>to</strong> In<strong>and</strong>a, Umhlanga <strong>and</strong> Amanzim<strong>to</strong>ti. Development of formerly black<br />
<strong>to</strong>wnships is also progressing in order <strong>to</strong> bring formerly disadvantaged<br />
citizens in <strong>to</strong> the mainstream of economic activity in eThekwini.<br />
These plans are part of the City’s 2010 <strong>and</strong> Beyond Strategy.<br />
When the Municipality was planning for the 2010 World Cup, it did<br />
not just focus on the <strong>to</strong>urnament but tried <strong>to</strong> ensure that infrastructural<br />
improvements would leave a lasting legacy <strong>and</strong> improve the quality<br />
of life for <strong>its</strong> residents. Beyond the World Cup, these facilities,<br />
<strong>to</strong>gether with the Inkosi Albert Luthuli International Convention Centre<br />
<strong>and</strong> Ushaka Marine World, have helped <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>to</strong> receive global<br />
recognition as Africa’s sporting <strong>and</strong> events capital.<br />
We are a diverse African city that is focused on citywide<br />
investments, growing our economy <strong>and</strong> creating a better quality of<br />
life. In <strong>Durban</strong> we play hard <strong>and</strong> we work hard. It’s not a coincidence<br />
that we attract so many local <strong>and</strong> international <strong>to</strong>urists on a daily<br />
basis. We are a growing urban setting, rich in diversity, cultural<br />
amenities <strong>and</strong> outdoor recreational opportunities. The threads that<br />
are woven in<strong>to</strong> this City are integral <strong>to</strong> the rich his<strong>to</strong>ry of South Africa,<br />
<strong>and</strong> contribute <strong>to</strong> the cultural diversity <strong>and</strong> harmony that defines life<br />
in eThekwini.<br />
Welcome <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>, the Warmest Place To Be! I hope you enjoy<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> - A <strong>Return</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>Paradise</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> <strong>People</strong><br />
Councillor James Nxumalo<br />
Mayor of eThekwini Municipality<br />
09
THERE’S SOMETHING FOOLISH ABOUT REDUCING<br />
thous<strong>and</strong>s of years of his<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong> just a few pages. And this<br />
is particularly the case in the multicultural society of <strong>Durban</strong>,<br />
where many important contributing str<strong>and</strong>s are bound <strong>to</strong><br />
fall by the wayside. But a little his<strong>to</strong>rical context will<br />
nonetheless prove useful <strong>to</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> who would<br />
like <strong>to</strong> underst<strong>and</strong>, in some way, how the city has evolved<br />
in<strong>to</strong> <strong>its</strong> current form.<br />
The timeline of human habitation in <strong>Durban</strong> goes back<br />
<strong>to</strong> long before the advent of recorded his<strong>to</strong>ry in the region.<br />
While some of the earliest remnants of humanity are found<br />
in the nearby Drakensberg, it is now established that prior<br />
<strong>to</strong> the arrival of the Nguni people <strong>and</strong> subsequent European<br />
colonialists, the area was populated by the original people<br />
of Southern Africa – now collectively called the Khoi/San.<br />
Then, on Christmas day in 1497, Portuguese explorer<br />
Vasco da Gama passed the mouth of <strong>Durban</strong> Bay <strong>and</strong><br />
promptly named it Rio de Natal (Christmas River), presuming<br />
that several rivers flowed in<strong>to</strong> the bay.<br />
Back then, before the intrusive advent of industrialisation,<br />
the bay was separated from the sea by a s<strong>and</strong>bar. In the<br />
vast waters of the bay <strong>and</strong> the mangrove swamps on <strong>its</strong><br />
edges, crocodiles, hippopotamuses <strong>and</strong> flamingoes spent<br />
their days. Beyond the bay lay a ridge of hills which was<br />
home <strong>to</strong> elephants, hyenas <strong>and</strong> lions until about a century<br />
ago, <strong>and</strong> which now houses <strong>Durban</strong>’s immediate suburbs.<br />
Over the subsequent years, Rio de Natal came <strong>to</strong> be a<br />
popular s<strong>to</strong>p-off point for explorers <strong>and</strong> traders, mainly<br />
because the bay offered one of the few protected<br />
anchorages on the southern coast of Africa.<br />
10<br />
HISTORY<br />
COLONIAL IMPRINT <strong>Durban</strong> still bears the imprint of George<br />
Ca<strong>to</strong>’s original three-street <strong>to</strong>wn plan, <strong>to</strong> which only two main<br />
parallel streets have been added, before the city’s grid structure<br />
surrenders <strong>to</strong> the more convoluted layout of <strong>its</strong> surburbs. Like<br />
many African cities, <strong>Durban</strong> still wears the vestiges of <strong>its</strong> colonial<br />
origins, with beautiful low rise neo-classical buildings dominating<br />
<strong>its</strong> centre, attended by a throng of colonial-era statues. Similarly,<br />
the Album: city <strong>its</strong>elf Introducing is still named after Shiyani <strong>its</strong> founder, NcgoboBenjamin<br />
D’Urban,<br />
although it is also referred <strong>to</strong> by <strong>its</strong> Zulu name, eThekwini.
In 1823, the first European settlement arrived on the<br />
ship, The Salisbury, under the comm<strong>and</strong> of Lieutenant<br />
James King, with the aim of trading up <strong>and</strong> down the South<br />
African coast. While inclement weather forced the vessel<br />
<strong>to</strong> anchor in the sheltered area off the coast of <strong>Durban</strong>,<br />
her accompanying ship, the Julia, sailed over the s<strong>and</strong>bar<br />
<strong>and</strong> surveyed the bay.<br />
King immediately recognised the importance of the bay<br />
<strong>and</strong> returned <strong>to</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> try <strong>and</strong> garner support for an<br />
English settlement. He was unsuccessful, <strong>and</strong> soon sailed<br />
back <strong>to</strong> Port Natal, as it had come <strong>to</strong> be called by the<br />
Europeans.<br />
King then befriended King Shaka Zulu who granted him<br />
l<strong>and</strong> around the bay, <strong>and</strong> sent him <strong>to</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> with two of<br />
his chiefs on a diplomatic mission. But the party got no<br />
further than Port Elizabeth <strong>and</strong> King returned <strong>to</strong> Port Natal<br />
once more, moving <strong>to</strong> the Bluff across the bay, where he<br />
died of dysentery in 1828.<br />
This rough, uncertain life frequently had lethal results<br />
<strong>and</strong> at one point the number of settlers at the bay was no<br />
more than six. At a meeting in 1835, attended by the full<br />
complement of settlers at the time – 15 in all – a <strong>to</strong>wn was<br />
proclaimed, <strong>and</strong> named in honour of the Governor of the<br />
Cape, Sir Benjamin D’Urban.<br />
Despite initially gr<strong>and</strong>iose plans, little development <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
place in this early settlement. Dwellings of rudimentary<br />
mud <strong>and</strong> wattle nestled in the coastal bush, <strong>and</strong> a full 12<br />
years after the proclamation, there were still no streets.<br />
Although the settlers maintained cordial relations with<br />
the powerful founder of the Zulu nation <strong>to</strong> their north,<br />
matters changed for the worse when Shaka’s successor<br />
Dingane <strong>to</strong>ok over. Under Shaka’s rule, the Zulus considered<br />
the area <strong>to</strong> be their terri<strong>to</strong>ry but had <strong>to</strong>lerated the white<br />
settlers whose trading hab<strong>its</strong> were useful <strong>to</strong> them. Whereas<br />
THE CITY HALL Built in 1910 in the neo-baroque style, the City<br />
Hall was inspired by the Belfast City Hall in Northern Irel<strong>and</strong>. This<br />
h<strong>and</strong>some s<strong>and</strong>s<strong>to</strong>ne building is adorned with allegorical sculptures<br />
in the neo-classical style representing art, music, literature, commerce<br />
<strong>and</strong> industry. The hall, with <strong>its</strong> sumptuous interior <strong>and</strong> beautiful<br />
acoustics, is used as a venue for cultural <strong>and</strong> social events <strong>and</strong><br />
regularly hosts concerts by the KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra.<br />
The building houses the Mayor’s Parlour as well as the City Library,<br />
the Natural Science Museum <strong>and</strong> the <strong>Durban</strong> Art Gallery.<br />
11
Shaka had instructed his citizens <strong>to</strong> live in peace with the white<br />
settlers, Dingane showed open animosity <strong>and</strong> aggression.<br />
In 1838 the Voortrekkers arrived from the Eastern Cape,<br />
already having laid claim <strong>to</strong> Natal, despite the fact that several<br />
columns of their wagons had been massacred by the Zulus<br />
along the way. Later that year at the battle of Ndondakusuka,<br />
a number of British traders lost their lives, along with hundreds<br />
of Zulus, <strong>and</strong> were forced <strong>to</strong> flee. In 1842 the British sent<br />
forces <strong>to</strong> maintain order in the area <strong>and</strong> were promptly<br />
besieged by the Voortrekkers. It fell <strong>to</strong> Dick King <strong>and</strong> his<br />
Zulu servant Ndongeni <strong>to</strong> ride <strong>to</strong> the British Garrison in<br />
Grahams<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> get help.<br />
King earned a legendary place in local his<strong>to</strong>ry by riding 960<br />
kilometres in 10 days, past the Voortrekkers <strong>and</strong> through wild<br />
uncharted terri<strong>to</strong>ry, crossing more than 120 rivers. A month<br />
later the besieged British were relieved. (King, seemingly<br />
always on the side of the underdog, also walked from <strong>Durban</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong> northern Natal <strong>to</strong> warn the Voortrekkers of the massacre of<br />
Piet Retief by the Zulu king Dingane.)<br />
In 1844, the British annexed the southern portion of Natal<br />
<strong>to</strong> their already existing Cape Colony. This annexe was<br />
significantly boosted in the early 1850s when several thous<strong>and</strong><br />
settlers arrived, courtesy of an Irishman named Joseph Byrne,<br />
who had once visited <strong>Durban</strong>, <strong>and</strong> who hoped <strong>to</strong> make money<br />
by shipping in settlers <strong>to</strong> this difficult paradise.<br />
In 1860, finding the Zulus <strong>to</strong> be uncooperative workers,<br />
the British imported the first of several thous<strong>and</strong> indentured<br />
labourers from British India <strong>to</strong> work in the sugar cane fields.<br />
Along with them came ‘passenger’ Indians who were not<br />
indentured, <strong>and</strong> who were free <strong>to</strong> engage in business.<br />
But <strong>Durban</strong> was still a rough looking outpost <strong>and</strong> it <strong>to</strong>ok the<br />
efforts of a young immigrant named George Ca<strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong> lay out<br />
the <strong>to</strong>wn properly with three main streets, each 100 feet across<br />
– wide enough <strong>to</strong> turn a wagon <strong>and</strong> 16 oxen (the reason why<br />
12<br />
APARTHEID TOWN PLANNING has left <strong>its</strong> footprint all over<br />
the eThekwini Metro Area as a result of the Group Areas Act<br />
which divided South African cities along racial lines. But<br />
although apartheid formalised segregation, city structures<br />
had already been shaped by the country’s colonial past. In<br />
1923 the Urban Areas Act was passed, forcing ‘blacks’ in<strong>to</strong><br />
what were known as ‘locations’. Segregated cities became<br />
apartheid Album: Introducing cities after the Shiyani National Ncgobo Party came in<strong>to</strong> power in<br />
1948 <strong>and</strong> all remaining ‘non-whites’ in <strong>Durban</strong> were forced<br />
<strong>to</strong> move <strong>to</strong> the outlying areas of the city.<br />
city centre roads in South Africa are so wide). In 1860, a railway<br />
linked the harbour with the small <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>and</strong> within 30 years it<br />
reached all the way <strong>to</strong> Johannesburg, while the <strong>to</strong>wn of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
began <strong>to</strong> exp<strong>and</strong> beyond the swampl<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> the cooler hills of<br />
the Berea.<br />
The discovery of gold in the Transvaal was a major boost<br />
<strong>to</strong> the port, while the presence of coal in Dundee resulted in<br />
many ships using the port for bunkering. The progress of the<br />
port finally led <strong>to</strong> the troublesome s<strong>and</strong>bar at the harbour<br />
entrance being removed.<br />
As a result of the increased use of the harbour, many<br />
marine-related industries such as ship building, stevedoring
<strong>and</strong> ch<strong>and</strong>ling were established in <strong>Durban</strong>, along with a<br />
dry dock.<br />
By 1900, the <strong>to</strong>wn had a sewerage system, hardened<br />
roads <strong>and</strong> water reticulation. The expansion of the railways<br />
also had the effect of attracting people from the Transvaal,<br />
who wished <strong>to</strong> vacation in the seaside <strong>to</strong>wn. This<br />
established <strong>Durban</strong> as a major <strong>to</strong>urist destination, a<br />
position it retains more than a century later. During the<br />
frequent conflicts in the colony, <strong>Durban</strong> was also the<br />
primary disembarkation point for British troops.<br />
In 1932 a number of satellite suburbs were incorporated<br />
in<strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>and</strong> in 1935 <strong>Durban</strong> was granted city status.<br />
In the years after World War II, the his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
was defined largely by the implementation of apartheid,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the struggle for equal humanity that ensued. Today,<br />
this legacy is most visibly evident in the existence of<br />
extensive shack settlements throughout the region.<br />
As the Group Areas Act got under way, the City Council<br />
decided <strong>to</strong> build more formal communities, <strong>and</strong> large<br />
<strong>to</strong>wnships were constructed <strong>to</strong> house African workers<br />
both north <strong>and</strong> south of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
In 1994 South Africa had <strong>its</strong> first democratic election,<br />
which changed forever the <strong>to</strong>ne <strong>and</strong> flavour of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
In 1996 the Municipal boundaries were exp<strong>and</strong>ed <strong>to</strong><br />
become the <strong>Durban</strong> Metropolitan Region, or <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Metro, by including large areas <strong>to</strong> the north, south <strong>and</strong><br />
west of the city.<br />
Four years later, a further expansion resulted in the<br />
inclusive <strong>Durban</strong> Unicity. Today <strong>Durban</strong> is the third largest<br />
city in South Africa <strong>and</strong> of vital economic importance <strong>to</strong><br />
the country. The city continues <strong>its</strong> role as South Africa’s<br />
most popular <strong>to</strong>urist destination, while <strong>its</strong> complex his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
has ensured a rich <strong>and</strong> diverse multicultural future.<br />
FACTS ABOUT DURBAN is a fascinating collection of facts <strong>and</strong><br />
anecdotes about <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry. A rich source of<br />
information on the city, FAD includes everything from a timeline<br />
of the city’s his<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>to</strong> wrecks which have occurred off the coast<br />
<strong>and</strong> the exact details of what the lights on the Millenium Tower<br />
mean. The archival images in the previous few pages were used<br />
with the kind permission of the author Allan Jackson, who also<br />
curates the constantly updated FAD website (www.fad.co.za)<br />
<strong>and</strong> writes a weekly internet column for the Sunday Tribune.<br />
The In<strong>and</strong>a City Guide The In<strong>and</strong>a area, just outside of <strong>Durban</strong>, is of<br />
great importance <strong>to</strong> the his<strong>to</strong>ry of South Africa. Many of the events that<br />
<strong>to</strong>ok place here have had global significance. It was in In<strong>and</strong>a that the<br />
young Mahatma G<strong>and</strong>hi birthed his notion of satyagraha, or peaceful<br />
resistance, <strong>and</strong> where the seeds of the African National Conference were<br />
planted. The eThekwini Municipality has produced a series of City Guide<br />
area maps, including one which focuses on In<strong>and</strong>a, detailing sites of<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ric importance <strong>and</strong> sacred significance. Pick up a copy of the<br />
Woza En<strong>and</strong>a City Guide at Tourist Junction in the centre of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
13
MAHATMA GANDHI Mahatma G<strong>and</strong>hi arrived in <strong>Durban</strong> in 1893<br />
as a legal advisor <strong>to</strong> an Indian firm. Initially unaware of the racial<br />
inequalities in the colony, he threw himself in<strong>to</strong> the struggle for<br />
elementary rights for Indians. He helped <strong>to</strong> establish the Natal<br />
Indian Congress in 1894 <strong>and</strong> the newspaper The Indian Opinion<br />
in 1903 <strong>and</strong>, a year later, established a settlement in Phoenix. It<br />
was here that his notion of satyagraha or non-violent resistance<br />
would later emerge, before resonating around the globe. JOHN ROSS In 1827 the 15 year old John Ross walked<br />
900 kms from <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>to</strong> Delagoa Bay (now Mapu<strong>to</strong>) <strong>and</strong><br />
back through untamed wilderness <strong>to</strong> fetch medical supplies<br />
for the settlers. Along the way he visited King Shaka who<br />
provided him with an armed escort for the journey. Today,<br />
a statue of Ross st<strong>and</strong>s in front of John Ross House on the<br />
Esplanade as a tribute <strong>to</strong> his bravery <strong>and</strong> determination.<br />
14<br />
JOHN DUBE Poet BW Vilakazi wrote in 1946 that John Dube<br />
was “a great, if not the greatest, black man of the missionary<br />
epoch in South Africa.” With the most meagre of economic<br />
means, Dube emerged from his<strong>to</strong>ry as a renaissance man in<br />
the true sense of the word. He was founding president of the<br />
African National Congress, started the local Zulu language<br />
newspaper Ilanga which continues <strong>to</strong> hold influence <strong>to</strong>day,<br />
<strong>and</strong> founded the influential Ohlanga High School, which has<br />
produced many of South Africa’s most powerful personalities.
SHAKA ZULU More than 200 years after his<br />
reign, Shaka remains an icon of global significance.<br />
Recognised as one of the world’s greatest military<br />
strategists, he has been the subject of fervent<br />
mythologising, casting him as a warrior of classical<br />
proportions. Whatever the truth, he cast a shadow<br />
<strong>to</strong>o large for legend <strong>to</strong> give way <strong>to</strong> accuracy.<br />
INANDA SEMINARY The In<strong>and</strong>a Seminary has had a profound impact on<br />
South Africa <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry. For it is here that John Dube’s gr<strong>and</strong>mother was<br />
converted <strong>to</strong> Christianity by the American missionary Daniel Lindley <strong>and</strong> where<br />
Dube’s father worked as one of the first ordained pas<strong>to</strong>rs of Lindley’s American<br />
Zulu Mission. Established in 1869 at the In<strong>and</strong>a Mission Station, the seminary<br />
was the first secondary school for African girls in Southern Africa <strong>and</strong> the only<br />
mission school in South Africa which managed <strong>to</strong> escape incorporation in<strong>to</strong><br />
apartheid structures <strong>and</strong> remain a private school. The campus<br />
remains active <strong>to</strong>day <strong>and</strong> is accessible <strong>to</strong> <strong>to</strong>urists. Phone +27 31 510 1011.<br />
Battlefields Holiday The battlefields of KwaZulu-Natal are located mainly in the<br />
hinterl<strong>and</strong> of the Zulu Kingdom. The 63 battlefield sites are haunting reminders<br />
of some of the bloodiest encounters in colonial his<strong>to</strong>ry, including conflicts<br />
between the Voortrekkers <strong>and</strong> the Zulus, the Zulus <strong>and</strong> the British <strong>and</strong> the Boers<br />
<strong>and</strong> the British. Campaign Trails (www.campaigntrails.co.za) offer a number of<br />
battlefields <strong>to</strong>urs, as do several other opera<strong>to</strong>rs. Phone +27 31 767 4166.<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry In Museums <strong>Durban</strong> has a diverse selection of museums which provide a broad range of information<br />
about the collective his<strong>to</strong>ry of the city <strong>and</strong> the region. From the KwaMuhle Museum, which illustrates the oppressive<br />
conditions experienced by black people under apartheid, <strong>to</strong> the Natural Science Museum, which explores the<br />
biological his<strong>to</strong>ry of South Africa, a wealth of his<strong>to</strong>rical resources is available <strong>to</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rians, researchers <strong>and</strong> anyone<br />
keen <strong>to</strong> learn more about the fascinating his<strong>to</strong>ry of eThekwini. See Museums Section for more information.<br />
15
WITH THE 2010 FIFA WORLD CUP CAME THE PROMISE<br />
of prosperity as the world focused on South Africa <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />
major cities, putting <strong>Durban</strong> firmly on the international map.<br />
But for the city <strong>to</strong> maximise the economic opportunities<br />
<strong>and</strong> media attention of this global event, it must look beyond<br />
2010, <strong>to</strong>wards a sustainable <strong>and</strong> viable future. The following<br />
projects, many now complete, demonstrate the many ways<br />
in which prosperity <strong>and</strong> success can be achieved as part<br />
of a city’s overall growth.<br />
While <strong>Durban</strong>’s beachfront showcases the pleasures of<br />
the city’s coastlines <strong>to</strong> locals <strong>and</strong> well-heeled international<br />
<strong>to</strong>urists, the <strong>to</strong>wnships of Phoenix, KwaMashu <strong>and</strong> Umlazi<br />
are gradually normalising in<strong>to</strong> more conventional urban<br />
environments with their own political <strong>and</strong> economic centres,<br />
thanks largely <strong>to</strong> the remarkable Bridge City development,<br />
a City-led urban intervention. Transport in the city will greatly<br />
improve as the <strong>People</strong> Mover system evolves from <strong>its</strong> role<br />
as a World Cup courier <strong>to</strong> the stadium, while the new stateof-the-art<br />
airport <strong>and</strong> trade port establish <strong>Durban</strong> as one<br />
of Africa’s most connected cities.<br />
16<br />
CITY PLANS<br />
ICC EXTENSION The Albert Luthuli International Convention<br />
Centre has been extremely successful since <strong>its</strong> inception,<br />
establishing <strong>Durban</strong> as one of the world’s conferencing capitals.<br />
It has recently been extended, doubling <strong>its</strong> size <strong>and</strong> providing<br />
exp<strong>and</strong>ed services. There is now a world-class indoor arena,<br />
as well as open spaces around the building which contribute<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>its</strong> iconic appearance <strong>and</strong> which will soon be extended <strong>to</strong><br />
activate the adjacent area. The ICC Arena puts the ICC <strong>Durban</strong><br />
in a league of <strong>its</strong> own, making it the only indoor venue in the<br />
country able <strong>to</strong> accommodate over 10 000 people.<br />
CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
THE PEOPLE MOVER This new bus system forms part of a transport<br />
redesign process that the city implemented in preparation for the<br />
2010 Fifa World Cup. With closed circuit surveillance cameras installed<br />
on each bus <strong>and</strong> wardens stationed at all s<strong>to</strong>ps <strong>to</strong> help <strong>to</strong>urists <strong>and</strong><br />
passengers, the <strong>People</strong> Mover promises a safe <strong>and</strong> reliable public<br />
transport system. With an access ramp for wheelchairs <strong>and</strong> prams,<br />
<strong>and</strong> onboard information about the city, the buses cover the beachfront<br />
<strong>and</strong> inner city routes from 6.30am <strong>to</strong> 11pm every day.<br />
CENTRAL DURBAN
CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
REINVENTING THE BEACHFRONT Over the past year, the city has<br />
been hard at work rebuilding the beachfront, putting in place a<br />
promenade that runs the full stretch of the city centre’s coastline.<br />
Part of a bold new vision for reinventing the beachfront, the<br />
renovation is the centrepiece of a broad strategy <strong>to</strong> dramatically<br />
grow <strong>Durban</strong>’s <strong>to</strong>urism market. The aim is <strong>to</strong> offer a beachfront<br />
package that will appeal <strong>to</strong> the full spectrum of beach users, from<br />
local water sports enthusiasts <strong>to</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs from around the world.<br />
NORTH DURBAN<br />
NORTH DURBAN<br />
NANDI DRIVE This is the largest road project ever<br />
undertaken by the eThekwini Municipality. The<br />
R320 million construction of the N<strong>and</strong>i Road Arterial<br />
has opened up the area <strong>to</strong> a wealth of economic<br />
activity. The development has facilitated easier access<br />
<strong>to</strong> the city for residents <strong>to</strong> the north of the city centre,<br />
eased traffic congestion coming from In<strong>and</strong>a,<br />
KwaMashu <strong>and</strong> North Coast Road, <strong>and</strong> opened up<br />
approximately 280 hectares of l<strong>and</strong> for light industrial,<br />
commercial <strong>and</strong> residential development projects.<br />
KWAMASHU TOWN CENTRE The In<strong>and</strong>a/Ntuzuma/Kwa-<br />
Mashu (INK) initiative is driving an ambitious social realignment<br />
programme <strong>to</strong> accelerate the development of communities<br />
living in these areas. The R30 million KwaMashu Town Centre<br />
upgrade has provided physical infrastructure, business<br />
support <strong>and</strong> safety in the area. The city is actively promoting<br />
private investment in the <strong>to</strong>wn centre as part of <strong>its</strong><br />
regeneration programmes in formerly disenfranchised CBDs.<br />
17
CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
WIDENING THE HARBOUR MOUTH As part of an extensive upgrade<br />
which will transform the Port of <strong>Durban</strong> in<strong>to</strong> a well-defined logistics hub,<br />
the harbour mouth has been substantially widened – from 130m <strong>to</strong> 300m<br />
at <strong>its</strong> widest point – <strong>and</strong> the entrance channel deepened so that the port<br />
can h<strong>and</strong>le the new generation of massive ‘super ships’. Additionally, an<br />
agreement between the National Ports Authority <strong>and</strong> the Municipality<br />
includes plans for upgrading the existing container terminal, a new<br />
container terminal, <strong>and</strong> a new general-cargo terminal on the Point.<br />
18<br />
Dominant Sec<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>Durban</strong> is the country’s most visited <strong>to</strong>urist destination <strong>and</strong><br />
has the second largest manufacturing base, as well as a strong agricultural<br />
sec<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong> growing IT, outsourcing, printing <strong>and</strong> creative industries.<br />
CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
THE MOSES MABHIDA STADIUM Construction<br />
of this world-class multi-purpose sports stadium<br />
was completed in 2009. The elegant new complex<br />
was one of the major host stadiums for the 2010<br />
Fifa World Cup <strong>and</strong> will be a major asset for future<br />
Olympic bids. The stadium can accommodate<br />
70000 specta<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>and</strong> is part of the Municipality’s<br />
Beyond 2010 strategy which aims <strong>to</strong> establish<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> as Africa’s premier sporting destination.<br />
The Role Of Infrastructure In Economic Development A central role of the eThekwini Municipality is<br />
<strong>to</strong> sensitively provide infrastructure that will help <strong>to</strong> grow the local economy while minimising negative externalities<br />
such as noise <strong>and</strong> air pollution. The success of N<strong>and</strong>i Drive is a good example of how the provision of infrastructure<br />
by local government can catalyse development in an area. By connecting the outer ring freeway with <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
northern suburbs, access <strong>to</strong> much l<strong>and</strong> has been opened up, allowing for the development of commercially<br />
intensive areas such as River Horse Park <strong>and</strong> alleviating congestion at other arterial entrances <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
Similarly, the City’s public-private partnership with Tongaat Hulett is helping <strong>to</strong> facilitate the economic <strong>and</strong> urban<br />
integration of the formerly marginalised areas of Phoenix, In<strong>and</strong>a, Ntuzuma <strong>and</strong> KwaMashu. What was<br />
once a mass of semi-rural housing is very quickly turning in<strong>to</strong> a small city that will activate the area around it.
NORTH DURBAN<br />
DUBE TRADE PORT With the newly completed King Shaka International<br />
Airport at <strong>its</strong> centre, the Dube Trade Port, once completed, will see<br />
the establishment of an exciting state of the art export zone incorporating<br />
a new air platform linked with the seaports of <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> Richards<br />
Bay. By attracting private sec<strong>to</strong>r investment <strong>and</strong> providing a multimodal<br />
platform for local exporters <strong>to</strong> more effectively tap in<strong>to</strong> global<br />
markets, the Dube Trade Port will serve as a catalyst for economic<br />
development <strong>and</strong> sustainable job creation. The Trade Port will<br />
incorporate a trade zone, a cyberport, perishables facilities, freight<br />
transfer facilities <strong>and</strong> other commercial <strong>and</strong> retail opportunities.<br />
NORTH DURBAN<br />
CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
RENOVATING THE CITY During 2010 significant<br />
progress was made with an ambitious project <strong>to</strong><br />
revitalise the inner city <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> immediate arterial<br />
suburbs. Much of the city has been renovated including<br />
roads, pavements, lighting <strong>and</strong> the City Hall <strong>its</strong>elf.<br />
Additionally, many building owners have followed the<br />
city’s lead, resulting in a cleaner, more liveable city.<br />
KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT includes an<br />
integrated passenger <strong>and</strong> freight airport without the significant<br />
constraints associated with the old <strong>Durban</strong> International<br />
Airport. Nearly 20000 square metres in size, the passenger<br />
terminal, with ‘parking spaces’ for 18 passenger aircrafts,<br />
allows for seven million passengers every year, with<br />
opportunities for significant expansion built in<strong>to</strong> the design.<br />
19
GALLERIA SHOPPING CENTRE in Amanzim<strong>to</strong>ti features 12 movie<br />
houses, an ice-skating rink, indoor putt-putt, sea view restaurants<br />
<strong>and</strong> a collection of retail giants. Boasting 87 000 square metres<br />
of retail space <strong>and</strong> 5700 secure parking bays, the focus is on good<br />
old-fashioned family entertainment <strong>and</strong> affordable prices. With<br />
the launch of the Galleria, the beachfront Water World <strong>and</strong> Fun<br />
L<strong>and</strong>, Amanzim<strong>to</strong>ti is proving <strong>to</strong> be the new destination of choice<br />
for <strong>Durban</strong>ites who are a little removed from the city centre.<br />
20<br />
SOUTH DURBAN OUTER WEST<br />
OUTER WEST<br />
HILLCREST The suburb of Hillcrest experienced a<br />
building boom in the 1990s <strong>and</strong> 2000s with the<br />
construction of a number of gated communities<br />
<strong>and</strong> shopping centres. Previously a sleepy village<br />
on the outskirts of <strong>Durban</strong>, Hillcrest has now become<br />
a booming suburb incorporated in<strong>to</strong> the eThekwini<br />
Municipal Area. With existing road <strong>and</strong> sewage<br />
systems unable <strong>to</strong> cope with the development boom,<br />
upgrade programmes estimated at some R60 million<br />
were initiated. The widening of a number of main<br />
<strong>and</strong> arterial roads, additional traffic lights <strong>and</strong> the<br />
completion of the <strong>Durban</strong>-bound on-ramp from<br />
Shongweni Road have made significant differences<br />
in easing traffic movement, while sewerage<br />
concerns have been addressed by upgrades <strong>to</strong><br />
the existing Hillcrest Wastewater Treatment Works.<br />
HAMMARSDALE Construction has begun on a multimillion<br />
R<strong>and</strong> development project <strong>to</strong> turn the Mpumalanga area in<strong>to</strong><br />
a vibrant, high-amenity regional <strong>to</strong>wn centre that will serve the<br />
Hammarsdale <strong>and</strong> Mpumalanga areas. Phase one consists<br />
of R30m bulk infrastructure, laying the foundations for an<br />
18000 square metre shopping centre, the first such facility <strong>to</strong><br />
be established in the currently under-serviced <strong>to</strong>wn centre.
SOUTH DURBAN<br />
UMLAZI MEGACITY , completed at a cost of R150 million, means<br />
that Umlazi’s residents can now shop in comfort <strong>and</strong> safety. The project<br />
was driven by private sec<strong>to</strong>r developers with the support of the<br />
eThekwini Municipality, giving life <strong>to</strong> the city’s commitment – as stated<br />
in <strong>its</strong> Integrated Development Plan – <strong>to</strong> revitalise <strong>to</strong>wnship areas by<br />
using <strong>its</strong> economic position <strong>to</strong> lever private sec<strong>to</strong>r funding. Umlazi<br />
MegaCity represents the first phase in a process of transforming both<br />
the physical appearance <strong>and</strong> social dynamics of a community that in<br />
the past was spatially isolated <strong>and</strong> economically marginalised as part<br />
of the ‘separate development’ of apartheid’s <strong>to</strong>wn planning policies.<br />
ALL AREAS<br />
SOUTH DURBAN<br />
THE SOUTH DURBAN BASIN consists of a nationally<br />
important industrial area interspersed with a substantial<br />
residential component. Key infrastructure upgrades<br />
aimed at improving service delivery are being rolled<br />
out in an area previously neglected by the apartheid<br />
regime. These upgrades include a major traffic<br />
interchange, electrical substation upgrades <strong>and</strong> road<br />
<strong>and</strong> s<strong>to</strong>rm water upgrades, as well as the improvement<br />
of the public realm through urban cleaning <strong>and</strong> greening.<br />
CITY GUIDES The Municipality has recently published a<br />
number of City Guides, including guides <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>’s galleries<br />
<strong>and</strong> museums, as well as <strong>to</strong> the important cultural precincts<br />
of In<strong>and</strong>a, Warwick Junction, Grey Street <strong>and</strong> the city centre.<br />
The guides, which were originated with the 2010 Fifa World<br />
Cup in mind, will continue <strong>to</strong> be produced in the future,<br />
with a number of architectural guides in the pipeline for the<br />
World Congress of Architects which <strong>Durban</strong> will host in 2014.<br />
21
NORTH DURBAN<br />
BRIDGE CITY Bridge City is a new <strong>to</strong>wn centre being developed 17<br />
kilometres from the <strong>Durban</strong> city centre, bridging the communities of Phoenix,<br />
In<strong>and</strong>a, Ntuzuma <strong>and</strong> KwaMashu <strong>and</strong> integrating them in<strong>to</strong> the urban system.<br />
This visionary new <strong>to</strong>wn will serve as the social <strong>and</strong> commercial centre <strong>to</strong><br />
an area housing a population of over 800 000 people, who at present<br />
have generally poor access <strong>to</strong> facilities <strong>and</strong> social services. It will be a<br />
catalyst for economic growth <strong>and</strong> the empowerment of surrounding<br />
communities by improving access <strong>to</strong> transport, work <strong>and</strong> commercial activity.<br />
22<br />
Twenty Twenty Vision The Municipality’s Economic Development Strategy was<br />
adopted in July 2008, outlining a set of choices <strong>and</strong> outcomes <strong>to</strong> ultimately achieve<br />
the overall vision of becoming Africa’s most caring <strong>and</strong> liveable city by 2020.<br />
SOUTH DURBAN<br />
AUTOMOTIVE CLUSTER <strong>Durban</strong> is the city of<br />
choice for South Africa’s globalised au<strong>to</strong>motive<br />
industry <strong>and</strong> is home <strong>to</strong> South Africa’s largest<br />
vehicle assembler, Toyota SA. The region’s<br />
au<strong>to</strong>motive industry receives strong support from<br />
eThekwini Municipality <strong>and</strong> benef<strong>its</strong> from a highly<br />
developed logistics platform emanating from the<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> harbour. The au<strong>to</strong>motive industry is the<br />
largest manufacturing sec<strong>to</strong>r in South Africa.<br />
Urban Growth Rural Backlog Recent indica<strong>to</strong>rs suggest that the eThekwini Municipality’s economy is<br />
outperforming the national economy in terms of the Gini Coefficient, unemployment rate <strong>and</strong> Gross Domestic<br />
Product. Locally, the introduction of the Dube Trade Port, the 2010 Fifa World Cup <strong>and</strong> the major expansion<br />
plans around the Port of <strong>Durban</strong> are three main projects that will act as major catalysts for the city’s economic<br />
growth over the next decade, with a legacy lasting well in<strong>to</strong> the 21st Century. At the same time, substantial<br />
progress has been made in extending basic household services <strong>to</strong> previously unconnected households, with<br />
approximately 75% of all households now having access <strong>to</strong> adequate levels of such services. The major backlog<br />
areas coincide geographically with existing informal settlements <strong>and</strong> rural <strong>and</strong> peri-urban areas. The key<br />
development challenge facing the Municipality is <strong>to</strong> address the service delivery backlogs in these areas.
The Value of <strong>Durban</strong>’s Open Spaces<br />
The value of natural goods <strong>and</strong> services<br />
provided by <strong>Durban</strong>’s more than 63 000<br />
hectares of open space is estimated <strong>to</strong><br />
be valued at more than R3billion. The<br />
value of goods <strong>and</strong> services, such as<br />
water <strong>and</strong> firewood provided by the<br />
natural environment in rural areas,<br />
provides an estimated R8000 per annum<br />
in services <strong>to</strong> each household. This means<br />
that if the natural resources were<br />
depleted in our rural areas, each<br />
household would have <strong>to</strong> find R8 000<br />
each year <strong>to</strong> purchase the goods <strong>and</strong><br />
services that were previously provided<br />
free of charge by the natural<br />
environment. As such, there are important<br />
economic reasons, beyond the concerns<br />
of conservation, <strong>to</strong> ensure the sustainable<br />
provision of the city’s open spaces.<br />
Business Referral <strong>and</strong> Information<br />
Network (BRAIN)<br />
Basic information for small businesses<br />
www.brain.org.za<br />
Department of Economic<br />
Development <strong>and</strong> Tourism<br />
Private Bag X001, Bishopsgate,<br />
4009<br />
Tel: +27 31 310 5303<br />
Fax: +27 31 307 6152<br />
E-mail: langab@eco<strong>to</strong>ur1.kzntl.gov.za<br />
www.kzn-deat.gov.za<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Africa<br />
PO Box 1044, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 304 4934<br />
Fax: +27 31 304 6196<br />
E-mail: funinsun@iafrica.com<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Chamber of Commerce<br />
<strong>and</strong> Industry<br />
PO Box 1506, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 335 1000<br />
Fax:+27 31 332 1288<br />
E-mail: chamber@durbanchamber.co.za<br />
www.durbanchamber.co.za<br />
Business Contacts<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Investment Promotion<br />
Agency (DIPA)<br />
PO Box 1203, <strong>Durban</strong> 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 336 2516/40<br />
Fax:+27 31 336 2641<br />
Cell: +27 82 924 6349<br />
E-mail: monique.labat@dipa.co.za<br />
www.dipa.co.za<br />
Economic Development Department,<br />
eThekwini Municipality<br />
PO Box 5856, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 311 3801<br />
Fax: +27 31 306 0195<br />
E-mail: ecodev@durban.gov.za<br />
eThekwini Municipality<br />
Development <strong>and</strong> Planning Unit<br />
PO Box 680, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 311 2911<br />
Fax: +27 31 311 2684<br />
www.durban.gov.za/eThekwini/Municipality/Planning<br />
KING’S PARK SPORTS DISTRICT The City’s vision of<br />
becoming Africa’s premier sporting <strong>and</strong> leisure destination<br />
has been taken a step further with the King’s Park Sports<br />
Precinct, with the Moses Mabhida Stadium at <strong>its</strong> centre.<br />
As part of the Municipality’s Beyond 2010 strategy, it was<br />
deemed practical <strong>to</strong> build the stadium in an area where<br />
all the Olympic sporting codes co-exist in close proximity<br />
with world class facilities. The construction of the precinct<br />
gives high priority <strong>to</strong> important developmental benef<strong>its</strong><br />
such as housing, infrastructure, transport <strong>and</strong> hotels. CENTRAL DURBAN<br />
23
24<br />
Local Exporters<br />
www.southafricanexporters.co.za<br />
Albert Luthuli International<br />
Convention Centre <strong>Durban</strong><br />
PO Box 155, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000, South Africa<br />
Tel: +27 31 360 1000<br />
Fax: +27 31 360 1005<br />
E-mail: mktg@icc.co.za<br />
www.icc.co.za<br />
Ithala Development Finance<br />
Corporation Ltd<br />
PO Box 2801, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 907 8810<br />
Fax: +27 31 907 5685<br />
E-mail: tzulu@ithala.co.za<br />
www.ithala.co.za<br />
KwaZulu-Natal Economic Council<br />
PO Box 30886, Mayville, 4058, South Africa<br />
Tel: +27 31 261 8181<br />
Fax: +27 31 261 8185<br />
E-mail: kznec@kznec.org.za<br />
KwaZulu-Natal Tourism Authority<br />
PO Box 2516, <strong>Durban</strong> 4000, South Africa<br />
Tel: +27 31 304 7144<br />
Fax: +27 31 305 6693<br />
E-mail: info@<strong>to</strong>urism-kzn.org<br />
www.zulukingdom.org.za<br />
National African Federated Chamber<br />
of Commerce <strong>and</strong> Industry - Iny<strong>and</strong>a<br />
PO Box 3095, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000, South Africa<br />
Tel: +27 31 304 2911<br />
Fax: +27 31 305 4913<br />
More Business Contacts<br />
Ombudsperson for Banking Services<br />
PO Box 5728, Johannesburg, 2000<br />
Tel: +27 11 838 0035<br />
or +27 0860 800 900<br />
Fax: +27 11 838 0043<br />
www.obssa.co.za<br />
Portnet – Port of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
PO Box 1027, Dal<strong>to</strong>n, 4000, South Africa<br />
Tel: 27 31 361 8804<br />
Fax: +27 31 361 8920<br />
E-mail: ronnieh@portnet.co.za<br />
www.portnet.co.za/durban/<br />
Small Enterprise Development Agency<br />
(SEDA)<br />
PO Box 56714, Arcadia, 0007<br />
Tel: 0860 103 703<br />
or +27 12 441 1000<br />
E-mail: info@seda.org.za<br />
www.seda.org.za<br />
Thekwini Business Development<br />
Centre (TBDC)<br />
PO Box 623, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel: +27 31 309 5432<br />
Fax: +27 31 309 5437<br />
E-mail: protasm@iafrica.com<br />
Trade <strong>and</strong> Investment KZN<br />
PO Box 4245, <strong>Durban</strong>, 4000<br />
Tel:+27 31 366 0600<br />
Fax:+27 31 304 4471<br />
Email: mncwabe@tikzn.co.za
SHEMBE The Shembe faith is often referred <strong>to</strong> as an Africanised<br />
Christianity. Although there is much reference <strong>to</strong> the Old Testament<br />
<strong>and</strong> conventional Christian rituals, the faith’s spiritual resonance is<br />
more African than Western. The church was founded in 1910 by the<br />
Prophet Isaiah Shembe <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>day has millions of followers who<br />
gather <strong>to</strong>gether in marginal outdoor spaces. Dressed in white,<br />
they assemble on traffic isl<strong>and</strong>s around the city for prayer or <strong>to</strong><br />
practise their haunting Shembe horn, the inspiration for the vuvuzela.<br />
26<br />
FAITH<br />
IF YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT RELIGION IN DURBAN,<br />
you can learn much from a walk around the city’s streets. As<br />
well as the host of mosques, temples, churches <strong>and</strong> cathedrals,<br />
declarations of faith are <strong>to</strong> be found everywhere – from the<br />
small star-shaped insignia that Zionist devotees wear on their<br />
lapels <strong>to</strong> the huge selection of buses <strong>and</strong> minibuses bearing<br />
religious messages.<br />
Although South Africa is constitionally a secular country,<br />
most of <strong>its</strong> population lays claim <strong>to</strong> a recognised faith, with the<br />
majority of <strong>Durban</strong>ites claiming some form of Christianity as<br />
their belief structure. In keeping with the city’s multicultural<br />
reality, religion in <strong>Durban</strong> is a vibrant melting pot of beliefs <strong>and</strong><br />
theologies many of which have been reconstructed <strong>and</strong> infused<br />
with a spirituality that is markedly African in <strong>its</strong> content.<br />
And while religions are often defined by their separateness<br />
from each other, in times of struggle, <strong>Durban</strong>’s various belief<br />
systems often come <strong>to</strong>gether in multi-faith services. From the<br />
Shembe devotees <strong>to</strong> the Hare Krishnas <strong>to</strong> the Zanzibari<br />
Muslims, faith in <strong>Durban</strong> is a reflection of the global nature of<br />
the city’s genesis.<br />
CHRISTIANITY While most <strong>Durban</strong>ites profess <strong>to</strong> being Christians,<br />
this often means an entirely different set of rituals, prophets <strong>and</strong><br />
theological structures <strong>to</strong> those usually associated with the faith.<br />
African Christianity, in the form of the Zionist <strong>and</strong> Shembe<br />
devotees, constitute a sizeable proportion of the Christians in<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>, although there is a significant <strong>and</strong> diverse following of<br />
‘conventional’ Christianities. Together, they fulfill every possible<br />
permutation Album: Introducing within the Shiyani parameters Ncgobo of modern Christianity.
ISLAM arrived in South Africa as early as 1658<br />
with the Dutch settlement in the Cape, but the<br />
first mosque was only erected in 1804. With the<br />
arrival of Indian labourers in Natal, the Muslim<br />
community mushroomed <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>day constitutes an<br />
important component of life in South Africa. A<br />
large proportion of South African Muslims are<br />
found in <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> the azaan (the call <strong>to</strong> the<br />
faithful) is heard in many parts of the metro area.<br />
Religious Holidays Although South Africa is officially a secular country, most<br />
South Africans acknowledge a faith of some kind. The local calendar reflects<br />
the traditional Christian holidays but they are generally celebrated with little<br />
cultural specificity. If you were <strong>to</strong> send out a holiday email in <strong>Durban</strong> in<br />
December, you would wish people ‘a happy festive season’, acknowledging that<br />
not everyone celebrates Christmas but that everyone enjoys a holiday.<br />
HINDUISM Although only 2% of <strong>Durban</strong>’s population are Hindu, the<br />
faith has had a significant impact on the city, with a network of Hindu<br />
Temples <strong>and</strong> a culture of vegetarianism being two of <strong>its</strong> gifts <strong>to</strong> the<br />
city. Hinduism first appeared in <strong>Durban</strong> in 1860 when indentured<br />
labourers arrived from India <strong>to</strong> work on the sugar plantations of Natal.<br />
Very soon they started <strong>to</strong> build shrines <strong>and</strong> temples, replicating the<br />
religious idiom of their homel<strong>and</strong>. Today South African Hindus<br />
practice their faith in much the same way as they would do in India,<br />
with a rich selection of temples located throughout eThekwini.<br />
Religious Harmony The faith-based conflict that is<br />
evident in many parts of the world is not reflected in<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s religious l<strong>and</strong>scape where harmony is generally<br />
the order of the day. While the legacy of apartheid is<br />
still with us in many ways, contemporary South Africa<br />
is a country of great <strong>to</strong>lerance <strong>and</strong> acceptance.<br />
Temples Of Underst<strong>and</strong>ing You don’t need <strong>to</strong> be Muslim <strong>to</strong> enter a Mosque or Hindu <strong>to</strong> visit a temple. And<br />
you don’t need <strong>to</strong> be a follower of Shembe <strong>to</strong> walk in<strong>to</strong> the sacred s<strong>to</strong>ne circles which constitute their churches.<br />
But you do need <strong>to</strong> be respectful, ask before you enter <strong>and</strong> accept that in most religious spaces there will be<br />
areas that are forbidden <strong>to</strong> non-believers. Generally, you should take off your shoes, <strong>and</strong> also accept the fact<br />
that in many local theologies, men <strong>and</strong> women will sometimes occupy different areas of a site or venue.<br />
27
ZIONISM The predominant religious belief systems in South<br />
Africa are a fusion of Christianity <strong>and</strong> traditional beliefs. Referred<br />
<strong>to</strong> as Syncretism, Apos<strong>to</strong>licism <strong>and</strong> Zionism, Africanised<br />
Christianity is a marriage of western ritual <strong>and</strong> theology with<br />
African religious culture. The overwhelming majority of<br />
African Christians favour Africanised versions of Christianity,<br />
which do not violate the foundations of their traditional cultures.<br />
28<br />
ZANZIBARI The Zanzibari community arrived on<br />
our coast in 1874 after being rescued by the British<br />
from a slave ship. Their ‘rescue’ consisted of a five<br />
year term of indentured labour, after which they<br />
returned <strong>to</strong> their traditional way of life, collectively<br />
buying a plot of l<strong>and</strong> on the Bluff. Under apartheid,<br />
they were relocated <strong>to</strong> Chatsworth where they<br />
continue <strong>to</strong> follow Islam as their forefathers did.<br />
HARE KRISHNA Chatsworth, in South <strong>Durban</strong>, boasts<br />
the biggest Hare Krishna temple in Africa <strong>and</strong> is home<br />
<strong>to</strong> a thriving Krishna community. A visit <strong>to</strong> the beautiful,<br />
lotus-shaped Temple of Underst<strong>and</strong>ing is an essential<br />
part of the <strong>Durban</strong> experience. And while you’re there,<br />
you should really have lunch downstairs at Govindas,<br />
the temple’s vegetarian restaurant whose kitchen also<br />
provides delicious food for the poor all over eThekwini.
Religion <strong>and</strong> Colonialism Religion<br />
played an important role in the his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of colonialism in Southern Africa. On<br />
the one h<strong>and</strong>, it was used as one of the<br />
many smokescreens <strong>to</strong> legitimise the<br />
actions of the colonial authorities. On<br />
the other h<strong>and</strong>, the spread of Christianity<br />
also played a significant role in resisting<br />
the forces of colonialism, both in the<br />
establishment of the Africanised<br />
Christian churches <strong>and</strong> in opposition by<br />
liberal churches <strong>to</strong> the race-based<br />
inequalities of apartheid. While the<br />
Afrikaans-based Nederdu<strong>its</strong><br />
Gereformeerde Kerk played a central<br />
part in sustaining apartheid <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />
ideologies, there were many churches<br />
<strong>and</strong> missionaries who defied the system<br />
of apartheid. Over the decades, churches<br />
have frequently been sites of activism<br />
<strong>and</strong> remain so <strong>to</strong>day. Additionally, the<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry of missionaries in South Africa<br />
is intricately tied <strong>to</strong> the creation of a<br />
small black educated class, many of<br />
whom entered political life in the<br />
resistance struggle against the apartheid<br />
regime. Whatever their intent at the<br />
time, the early missionaries would no<br />
doubt smile at the fact that the majority<br />
of South Africans profess <strong>to</strong> be Christian.<br />
CHURCHES<br />
Apos<strong>to</strong>lic Faith Mission<br />
Yusuf Dadoo Street,<br />
City Centre<br />
Dutch Reformed<br />
Church 151 An<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Lembede Street<br />
Methodist Church<br />
70 Lena Ahrens<br />
Road, Glenwood<br />
St James’ Church<br />
109/111 Venice<br />
Road, Morningside<br />
St John’s Church<br />
205 Clark Road,<br />
Glenwood<br />
Trinity Congregational<br />
284 Florida Road,<br />
Morningside<br />
JUDAISM Judaism arrived in South Africa in the Cape in<br />
the early 1800s when European Jews immigrated <strong>to</strong> the<br />
country, <strong>and</strong> by the first half of the 20th Century Jewish<br />
society was flourishing in South Africa. Today, however, Jewish<br />
people constitute only 0.2% of the population, with the<br />
majority living in Johannesburg. <strong>Durban</strong> maintains a small<br />
but active Jewish community, linked by a small number of<br />
synagogues in the Metro area as well as by several Jewish<br />
organisations, including the Jewish Club near the beachfront<br />
which has recently opened the remarkable Holocaust Museum.<br />
HINDU TEMPLES<br />
Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor Hindu<br />
Temple, 588 Vusi Mzimela<br />
Road, Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Hindu Temple<br />
24 Somtseu Road,<br />
City Centre<br />
Shree Gengaiammen<br />
814 Vusi Mzimela<br />
Road, Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor<br />
Shree Nivasa Perumal<br />
Kouvil<br />
127 Felix Dlamini Road<br />
Umgeni Road Temple<br />
Complex 535 Umgeni<br />
Road, Greyville<br />
Places of Worship<br />
MOSQUES<br />
Juma Musjid Mosque<br />
Yusuf Dadoo Street,<br />
City Centre<br />
Soofie Mosque<br />
50 Lower Bridge<br />
Road, Riverside<br />
Soofie Mosque<br />
Umgeni Road, corner<br />
Alpine Road<br />
Overport Mosque<br />
64 Glenearn Road,<br />
<strong>Durban</strong><br />
Soofie Saheb Badha<br />
Peer Darbar<br />
535 Umgeni Road<br />
West Street Mosque<br />
478 Dr Pixley<br />
KaSeme Street<br />
SYNAGOGUES<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Hebrew<br />
Congregation<br />
Cnr. Stephen Dlamini<br />
<strong>and</strong> Silver<strong>to</strong>n Roads<br />
Berea<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Progressive<br />
Jewish Congregation<br />
369 Ridge Road<br />
Berea<br />
Chabad of the North<br />
Coast<br />
11 Flamingo Lane<br />
Umhlanga Rocks<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Jewish Club<br />
44 KE Masinga Road<br />
City Centre<br />
Holocaust Centre<br />
44 KE Masinga Road<br />
City Centre<br />
29
30<br />
COMMERCE<br />
LIKE THE REST OF SOUTH AFRICA, DURBAN’S<br />
economy consists of a formal <strong>and</strong> an informal sec<strong>to</strong>r. For<br />
a long time ignored, the importance of the informal economy<br />
is finally being recognised by economists as a vital <strong>and</strong><br />
inextricable component of the broader economy.<br />
In <strong>Durban</strong> this recognition is at the centre of city<br />
governance, finance <strong>and</strong> planning. Once pushed <strong>to</strong> the<br />
very margins of the city, provision has now been made for<br />
informal traders in the form of shelters, waste removal <strong>and</strong><br />
large-scale projects such as the regeneration of the Warwick<br />
Junction area.<br />
Concomitant with this recognition is the need for<br />
regulation; an approach that needs <strong>to</strong> be balanced with<br />
the abilities of traders <strong>to</strong> conform with these regulations.<br />
The sheer volume of traders makes this a momen<strong>to</strong>us task<br />
that requires careful consideration without neglecting the<br />
dem<strong>and</strong>s of the formal sec<strong>to</strong>r.These fac<strong>to</strong>rs, along with<br />
the large geographical area of the Metro region, mean that<br />
economic activity is defined by diversity.<br />
More than 20% of the formally employed South African<br />
workforce live in <strong>Durban</strong>, making it one of South Africa’s<br />
key economic engines. The harbour <strong>and</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>’s relative<br />
proximity <strong>to</strong> the major industrial area of Johannesburg has<br />
ensured a solid economic base for the city <strong>and</strong> the Metro<br />
area. But much manufacturing activity also takes place<br />
within <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>its</strong>elf. Industrial activity is concentrated in<br />
the South <strong>Durban</strong> Basin. Here you’ll find Toyota, South<br />
Africa’s largest au<strong>to</strong> maker, as well as satellite industries<br />
<strong>and</strong> a large chemical plant. <strong>Durban</strong> is also the drop-off<br />
point for most of the oil which comes in<strong>to</strong> South Africa;<br />
THE CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT Like much of the city,<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s central business district went in<strong>to</strong> a slight decline<br />
during the immediate period of transition <strong>to</strong> democracy. But<br />
now it is as bustling <strong>and</strong> vibrant as ever, filled with street-traders,<br />
small boutiques <strong>and</strong> mainstream chains<strong>to</strong>res, which sit beneath<br />
office blocks that rise in<strong>to</strong> the sky. The CBD is the best place<br />
<strong>to</strong> view a representative sample of <strong>Durban</strong>’s inhabitants,<br />
since www.siwelasonke.co.za<br />
commerce is an area in which everybody comes <strong>to</strong>gether.<br />
massive oil refineries in South <strong>Durban</strong> process the oil before<br />
it is pumped <strong>to</strong> Johannesburg. Other industries are located in<br />
enclaves just north of the city in various industrial parks, <strong>and</strong><br />
west of the city in the Queensmead area near Pine<strong>to</strong>wn. Further<br />
west, small, medium <strong>and</strong> large-scale farming predominates.<br />
The South African economy is undergoing a transformation<br />
that is enabling us <strong>to</strong> compete more effectively globally. Part of<br />
the process is the reduction of trade tariffs, which has unfortunately<br />
resulted in difficulties for certain industries, such as the large<br />
textile industry which now has <strong>to</strong> compete with a greater number<br />
of imported goods. When jobs are shed in the formal sec<strong>to</strong>r, it<br />
often means that people seek employment in the informal sec<strong>to</strong>r.
THE HARBOUR <strong>Durban</strong>’s economic importance <strong>to</strong> the Southern<br />
African region is underlined by <strong>its</strong> massive harbour, the second largest<br />
in the Southern Hemisphere (the largest is Richard’s Bay, 200 kilometres<br />
north of <strong>Durban</strong>). Until recently the harbour has been entirely industrial,<br />
save for the presence of the BAT Centre in the small craft harbour <strong>and</strong><br />
a few bars dotted around <strong>its</strong> extensive quayside. In the last few years,<br />
however, industry has been pushed back from certain areas in the<br />
harbour, www.siwelasonke.co.za<br />
providing entertainment spots on the water’s edge.<br />
CONFERENCING With the construction <strong>and</strong> expansion<br />
of the International Convention Centre <strong>and</strong> the adjacent<br />
Hil<strong>to</strong>n Hotel, <strong>Durban</strong> has become a global Mecca for a<br />
broad spectrum of conferencing. From the Non-Aligned<br />
Movement <strong>to</strong> the World Conference on Racism, the ICC<br />
has been instrumental in focusing the international<br />
spotlight on <strong>Durban</strong>. So, if you’re bored with Acapulco<br />
or Honolulu, suggest <strong>Durban</strong> as your next conference<br />
venue <strong>and</strong> treat your colleagues <strong>to</strong> a convention<br />
experience in the heart of this wonderful African city.<br />
GREY STREET <strong>Durban</strong>’s Indian quarter, named after the<br />
street that runs through it (now renamed Yusuf Dadoo), is<br />
a favourite shopping experience for <strong>Durban</strong>ites who prefer<br />
the bustle of the city’s streets <strong>to</strong> that of the mall. More<br />
importantly, the area offers a vast range of products for<br />
those who can’t afford mall prices. Rich in culture <strong>and</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry,<br />
the centre of the precinct is the Juma Musjid Mosque which<br />
shares <strong>its</strong> structure with adjacent s<strong>to</strong>res <strong>and</strong> madressas.<br />
31
RURAL AND SEMI-RURAL DURBAN The <strong>Durban</strong> Metro Area is extensive<br />
<strong>and</strong> includes many rural <strong>and</strong> semi-rural communities. Under apartheid,<br />
these areas had very few commercial spaces <strong>and</strong> access <strong>to</strong> little or no<br />
basic services. Part of the challenge of renegotiating <strong>and</strong> reconstructing<br />
these spaces is ensuring that the people who live there have access,<br />
not only <strong>to</strong> water <strong>and</strong> electricity, but also <strong>to</strong> such modern-day necessities<br />
as bank machines, shopping centres <strong>and</strong> emergency services.<br />
30% of the Metro population live in rural or semi-rural areas.<br />
32<br />
LOOSE CIGARETTE SELLERS At the heart of the<br />
informal economy is the micro-profit. For those<br />
at the lower end of the economic spectrum, small<br />
amounts of money have a substantial impact. On<br />
the streets of <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> in <strong>its</strong> poorer suburbs<br />
<strong>and</strong> business districts, you will find people selling<br />
individual sweets <strong>and</strong> loose cigarettes. The markup<br />
on each unit is minimal, but provides a small<br />
but reliable income for thous<strong>and</strong>s of people.<br />
SECOND-HAND SHOPS are popular with a broad range<br />
of <strong>Durban</strong>ites as decorating styles from earlier decades<br />
swing back in<strong>to</strong> favour. The increasing hype surrounding<br />
retro furniture has meant that prices have begun <strong>to</strong> rise,<br />
but the second-h<strong>and</strong> shops of the city <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> suburbs are<br />
still ripe for the picking. The retro shop Eclectic, on the<br />
corner of Gordon <strong>and</strong> Florida Road, is a great source of<br />
items from bygone eras, as well as a glorious assortment<br />
of k<strong>its</strong>ch, <strong>and</strong> is used extensively by interior decora<strong>to</strong>rs.
GATEWAY Built on 28 hectares of prime Umhlanga<br />
Ridge real estate <strong>and</strong> comprising 120 000 square metres<br />
of ultra-modern retail space, Gateway Theatre of Shopping<br />
is one of the largest shopping centres in the Southern<br />
Hemisphere. The centre is also the nucleus of the 160hectare<br />
Umhlanga Ridge New Town Centre development.<br />
CONNECTIVITY Although computer literacy in <strong>Durban</strong> faces<br />
conventional literacy as the first of <strong>its</strong> challenges, it is imperative<br />
that the digital divide be narrowed for eThekwini <strong>to</strong> grow in<br />
a global market. Computer colleges populate the city <strong>and</strong><br />
internet cafés are easily accessible. Broadb<strong>and</strong> connectivity<br />
is finally here <strong>and</strong> the price of b<strong>and</strong>width is slowly dropping.<br />
UMHLANGA RIDGE If you drive north up the coast from <strong>Durban</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> take the turnoff <strong>to</strong> the Gateway shopping centre, you’ll see a<br />
mass of white 21st Century buildings. This giant new office park<br />
is home <strong>to</strong> the provincial or national headquarters of many of the<br />
country’s leading companies <strong>and</strong> multinational corporations. While<br />
there are those who object <strong>to</strong> the construction of this second CBD<br />
away from the city, the acceleration of development in <strong>Durban</strong> has<br />
meant that the ever-exp<strong>and</strong>ing Umhlanga Ridge development has<br />
not taken place at the expense of <strong>Durban</strong>’s central business precinct.<br />
Album: When I Grow Up, Fox Hill Lane<br />
33
SHOEMAKERS Craft skills in South Africa were<br />
severely damaged under the restriction of apartheid.<br />
As the new South Africa blooms, craftspeople are<br />
returning <strong>to</strong> the streets, their skills often informed<br />
by the trickle of people from countries further north.<br />
Shoemakers are a prime example of this, <strong>and</strong> you<br />
can get shoes fixed while-you-wait all over <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
The price is low, the quality is high, <strong>and</strong> a muchloved<br />
pair of shoes gets <strong>to</strong> walk once again.<br />
34<br />
MARKETS Many <strong>Durban</strong>ites buy much of their food from the various<br />
markets in <strong>and</strong> around <strong>Durban</strong>. Fish markets, meat markets <strong>and</strong> fresh<br />
produce markets line the commuter route out of <strong>Durban</strong> where a<br />
significant number of the city’s residents buy their evening’s provisions<br />
on the way home. On the periphery of the markets, smaller traders sell<br />
all manner of wares from audio cassettes <strong>to</strong> belts, headache tablets <strong>to</strong><br />
loose cigarettes. While the markets are the cheapest source of basic<br />
foodstuffs for working class consumers, middle class <strong>Durban</strong>ites generally<br />
do their shopping at supermarkets in malls, or at s<strong>to</strong>res near their<br />
homes. Additionally, many pay a substantial premium for organically<br />
grown vegetables produced by small-scale farmers, available at morning<br />
markets <strong>and</strong> fleamarkets. Increasingly, many of the city’s fleamarkets<br />
also sell a variety of fresh produce <strong>and</strong> manufactured foodstuffs.<br />
The Markets of Warwick City Guide The Warwick Junction area is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most important commercial<br />
<strong>and</strong> transit hubs, particularly for the city’s working class, many of whom straddle the urban/rural divide. In Warwick<br />
you’ll find an extraordinary array of human activity which caters <strong>to</strong> the hundreds of thous<strong>and</strong>s of people who move<br />
through the area each day. Cars roar by overhead on newly built freeways while herbalists sell traditional medicine<br />
on an ab<strong>and</strong>oned fly-over now linked by a footbridge <strong>to</strong> the activities below. Follow that bridge <strong>and</strong> you’ll find yourself<br />
in a vibrant, polyphonic world that is home <strong>to</strong> a mass of commercial <strong>and</strong> cultural activities, including various markets<br />
which sell everything from blue jeans <strong>and</strong> farm-fresh produce <strong>to</strong> religious goods <strong>and</strong> cooked animal heads. The<br />
eThekwini Municipality has produced a series of City Guide area maps, including one which explores the various<br />
markets of Warwick. Pick up a copy of the Markets of Warwick City Guide at Tourist Junction in the centre of <strong>Durban</strong>.
Targeting the Townships One of the<br />
most enduring legacies of apartheid<br />
is the existence of racially defined<br />
<strong>to</strong>wnships all over South Africa. As well<br />
as enforcing segregation, the <strong>to</strong>wnships<br />
also represented pools of surplus labour<br />
whose reliance on the ‘white economy’<br />
was ensured by constructing the <strong>to</strong>wnships<br />
without their own economies. This<br />
is one of the central challenges that<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> faces as a city <strong>and</strong> as a<br />
Municipality - <strong>to</strong> help develop <strong>and</strong> grow<br />
economic activity in these sprawling<br />
residential <strong>to</strong>wns. This also means<br />
that the <strong>to</strong>wnships represent vast<br />
potential for business opportunities,<br />
both <strong>to</strong> residents <strong>and</strong> outside inves<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>ria Street Market<br />
This market in the Indian<br />
quarter of <strong>Durban</strong> has two<br />
floors crammed with curios,<br />
spices <strong>and</strong> homeware.<br />
Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-<br />
1pm.<br />
+27 31 306 4021<br />
Warwick Avenue Fresh<br />
Produce Market<br />
This market bustles with<br />
activity as vendors ply their<br />
fresh fruit <strong>and</strong> vegetables<br />
which come from all over the<br />
province.<br />
Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-<br />
1pm.<br />
South Plaza Market<br />
With several hundred stalls,<br />
this market sprawls around the<br />
centrally situated Workshop<br />
shopping centre every Sunday.<br />
Samora Machel Street next <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Exhibition Centre.<br />
Sun 9am-4pm.<br />
+27 31 301 9900<br />
WARWICK AVENUE is a non-s<strong>to</strong>p kaleidoscope of local<br />
culture. Zulu muthi (traditional medicine) sellers ply their<br />
wares on a disused freeway next <strong>to</strong> the West Street Cemetery<br />
<strong>and</strong> the <strong>to</strong>mb of a local Muslim saint. The Early Morning<br />
Market s<strong>its</strong> at the centre of Warwick, surrounded by all manner<br />
of traders, from the large, neon-lit butchery <strong>to</strong> the vendors<br />
who sell loose cigarettes <strong>and</strong> phone calls on battery operated<br />
telephones. Warwick Junction is the busiest intersection in<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>, fed by a series of bus ranks <strong>and</strong> a train station. Up<br />
<strong>to</strong> 500 000 commuters pass through the area each day.<br />
Church Square Market<br />
Open daily, just behind Tourism<br />
Junction, with a large variety<br />
of clothing, sunglasses etc.<br />
Between Commercial Street<br />
<strong>and</strong> Monty Naicker Road.<br />
Daily 8.30am-4.30pm.<br />
+27 82 451 0744<br />
Essenwood Road Market<br />
Open only on Saturday<br />
morning, this distinctly crafty<br />
market includes a variety of<br />
home-made products <strong>and</strong> a<br />
range of food <strong>and</strong> beverages.<br />
Berea Park, Stephen Dlamini<br />
Road. Sat 9am-2pm.<br />
+27 31 208 9916<br />
The Stables<br />
One of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most<br />
charming markets, The Stables<br />
is open in the evenings on<br />
Wednesdays <strong>and</strong> Fridays.<br />
291-242 Jacko Jackson Drive.<br />
Wed/Fri 6pm-10pm, Sun<br />
12pm-6pm.<br />
+27 31 301 9900<br />
Markets in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Car Boot Market<br />
It’s amazing what some people<br />
throw away. And amazing what<br />
some people try <strong>to</strong> sell. A junkcollec<strong>to</strong>r’s<br />
dream.<br />
Sundays 7am-1pm.<br />
Mathews Meyiwa Road.<br />
+27 31 209 4751<br />
The Bluff Fleamarket<br />
Arts, crafts, collectibles <strong>and</strong> junk<br />
are all available at the Bluff<br />
Showgrounds, on the first <strong>and</strong><br />
last Saturdays of the month.<br />
And while you’re there, check<br />
out some of the magnificent<br />
beaches on the Bluff.<br />
+27 82 049 8151<br />
Drummond Craft Market<br />
This small market is packed<br />
with locally made art <strong>and</strong> crafts.<br />
There is also a restaurant <strong>and</strong><br />
quick access <strong>to</strong> the breathtaking<br />
Valley of a Thous<strong>and</strong> Hills.<br />
Old Main Road, Drummond.<br />
Thurs-Sun 9am-4.30pm.<br />
+27 82 784 9728<br />
35
AS WITH MOST ASPECTS OF LIFE IN DURBAN, THERE<br />
is no specific style that defines the food we eat, although<br />
if you combined Californian, Indian <strong>and</strong> African cooking,<br />
you might arrive at some vague approximation.<br />
In eThekwini, fusion is the dominant force <strong>and</strong> eclecticism<br />
the order of the day. The political freedom that arrived in<br />
the ’90s has had a spillover culinary effect <strong>and</strong> South<br />
African cuisine has blossomed in the last decades, as<br />
minds have opened <strong>and</strong> the global grocery s<strong>to</strong>re has arrived<br />
on our shelves. At the same time, a wide variety of smallscale<br />
local producers have emerged, from cheese sellers<br />
<strong>to</strong> small organic farmers <strong>to</strong> local microbreweries, reflecting<br />
the international trend <strong>to</strong>wards recognising food production<br />
as craft rather than industry.<br />
So in <strong>Durban</strong> you can sample the planet’s menus <strong>and</strong><br />
also discover entirely new genres of food. Sushi meets<br />
roti. The burri<strong>to</strong> meets Zulu spinach. The samoosa encases<br />
a filling of cheese <strong>and</strong> bacon. And dhall gets poured in<strong>to</strong><br />
an Italian pasta sauce.<br />
36<br />
EATING<br />
SHISA NYAMA is the isiZulu word for ‘hot meat’, <strong>and</strong> is a staple of<br />
local African cuisine. The meat, usually chicken or chops, is cooked<br />
<strong>to</strong> well-done on either a gas-<strong>to</strong>p s<strong>to</strong>ve or a fire. Shisa nyama spots<br />
can be found on the streets of <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> in <strong>to</strong>wnships <strong>and</strong> taxi<br />
ranks, <strong>and</strong> often form the centre of social activity. And like much<br />
African cuisine, <strong>its</strong> working class roots in no way discourage the<br />
black middle-class from partaking in the slightly charred meat.<br />
TASTE IT AT: Warwick Junction, City Centre<br />
THE BUNNYCHOW consists of thick, delicious <strong>Durban</strong> curry<br />
spooned in<strong>to</strong> a hollowed-out half loaf of bread <strong>and</strong> is widely<br />
thought <strong>to</strong> have been invented as a response <strong>to</strong> apartheid.<br />
Under the old dispensation, seating areas in restaurants were<br />
reserved for white people. With takeaways becoming<br />
something of a necessity for most of the population of the<br />
old South Africa, the self-contained bunnychow was invented.<br />
TASTE IT AT: Cocos in Mathews Meyiwa Road, Morningside
THE DURBAN CURRY is the single cuisine that unites <strong>Durban</strong>ites<br />
across the demographic spread. Hanging out at one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
countless curry joints, you’ll find everyone from skater kids <strong>to</strong> lawyers<br />
<strong>to</strong> street people who have managed <strong>to</strong> squeeze some coins <strong>to</strong>gether<br />
for that day’s lunch. Imported from India <strong>and</strong> then made brasher <strong>and</strong><br />
hotter, the <strong>Durban</strong> curry might set your nose running, but it’ll also give<br />
you a taste that you won’t be able <strong>to</strong> satisfy anywhere else in the world.<br />
TASTE IT AT: Sunrise House of Curries, Morningside<br />
MEALIES ON THE STREET are cooked on a small open<br />
fire or gas-<strong>to</strong>p s<strong>to</strong>ve <strong>and</strong> lightly salted. They provide<br />
cheap, instant nutrition <strong>to</strong> pedestrians on the move, as<br />
well as an income for the mostly female vendors. If you<br />
take a walk around the city, you might even discover<br />
small gardens of this staple vegetable growing in<br />
marginal spaces <strong>and</strong> tended by the vendors themselves.<br />
TASTE IT AT: Cnr of Dorothy Nyembe & Dr Goonam Streets<br />
HEAD MARKETS It is true that little goes <strong>to</strong> waste in<br />
Africa, <strong>and</strong> this is clearly illustrated by the fact that when<br />
an animal is slaughtered, nothing is thrown away. In<br />
KwaZulu-Natal, inhloko (boiled cow head) is something of<br />
a delicacy. This treat, not for those of even the vaguest<br />
vegetarian persuasion, can be tasted at the Head Restaurant<br />
in Warwick Junction’s Head Market. The head is taken away<br />
for cooking at home or prepared as inhloko isigqokweni<br />
(head on a plate) <strong>and</strong> accompanied by salt <strong>and</strong> green chillies.<br />
FIND IT AT: Warwick Junction, City Centre<br />
37
HARILALS SPICE EMPORIUM If it’s in an Eastern<br />
recipe book, chances are that you’ll find it here.<br />
Located at the bot<strong>to</strong>m of Monty Naicker Road,<br />
Harilals is truly an emporium of culinary delight,<br />
<strong>and</strong> a thoroughly affordable one at that. As well as<br />
a huge selection of dry goods, the s<strong>to</strong>re also sells<br />
a large variety of kitchenware, Indian cookbooks,<br />
vegetarian products <strong>and</strong> Indian devotional items.<br />
FIND IT AT: West end of Monty Naicker Road, City Centre<br />
38<br />
VEGETARIANS AND VEGANS Due <strong>to</strong> the presence of <strong>Durban</strong>’s substantial<br />
Hindu population, vegetarians <strong>and</strong> vegans find themselves extremely well<br />
catered for in <strong>Durban</strong>. The clutch of Hare Krishna take-aways scattered<br />
around the city offer not only mild curries but also variations on lasagne,<br />
cottage pie, sausage rolls, hamburgers, pizza <strong>and</strong> more, <strong>and</strong> every curry<br />
house will have at least one veg option. But even away from Indian cuisine,<br />
you’ll find the city’s restaurants vegetarian-friendly. That said, avoid steakhouses.<br />
FIND IT AT: Little Gujerat, Dr Goonam Street, City Centre<br />
Dinner in the indian quarter The east end of Dr Goonam (Prince Edward) Street<br />
lights up in the early evening on weekdays, with several Indian <strong>and</strong> Pakistani<br />
restaurants open until about 9pm, accompanied by paan sellers <strong>and</strong> DVD vendors.<br />
The Indian quarter known as Grey Street, named after the street<br />
that runs through the area (now renamed <strong>to</strong> Yusuf Dadoo Street)<br />
has a large concentration of restaurants <strong>and</strong> takeaways.<br />
Unsurprisingly, curry dominates, with a plethora of vegetarian options<br />
available as well as a broad selection of meat-based meals. If Indian<br />
fare isn’t for you, there are a few Pakistani restaurants, as well as<br />
global chains such as Wimpy <strong>and</strong> KFC. Eating in Grey Street is very<br />
affordable, <strong>and</strong> has the advantage of having the ingredients of your<br />
next meal for sale just around the corner, where formal s<strong>to</strong>res <strong>and</strong><br />
street vendors sell produce at lower prices than anywhere else.
L’EDICOLA ITALIAN DELI is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s longest-running delicatessens.<br />
Located on the corner of Problem Mkhize <strong>and</strong> Clarence Roads,<br />
it’s the place where you’re guaranteed <strong>to</strong> find all things Italian, as well as<br />
a host of other items on the global fusion menu. Featuring a large variety<br />
of imported cold meats <strong>and</strong> cheeses, as well as sumptuous ready-made<br />
Italian meals, L’Edicola is the perfect s<strong>to</strong>p-off point when you feel like<br />
treating yourself – or some lucky guests – <strong>to</strong> a decadent smorgasboard.<br />
Slow food The <strong>Durban</strong>-Pietermaritzburg Slow Food<br />
convivium, is named ‘Imifino’ after the isiZulu word for the<br />
green leaves of edible plants indigenous <strong>to</strong> the area. The<br />
convivium is based around Enaleni, in the KZN Midl<strong>and</strong>s.<br />
EVERFRESH has revolutionised grocery shopping in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> suburbs. While their name seldom lets them<br />
down, the main attraction is the sheer variety of fruit <strong>and</strong><br />
veg on display, as well as a cornucopia of cheese <strong>and</strong> other<br />
dairy products, a butchery <strong>and</strong> a bakery. A one-s<strong>to</strong>p,<br />
preservative-free grocery experience, Everfresh, which has<br />
recently gone in<strong>to</strong> partnership with Fruit <strong>and</strong> Veg City<br />
under the br<strong>and</strong> name of Food Lovers Market, has had a<br />
remarkable impact on many <strong>Durban</strong>ites’ approach <strong>to</strong> food.<br />
JOHNNY’S CHIP-INN RANCH is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
definitive dining experiences. Located in the heart of<br />
Overport, Johnny’s sells a large selection of curries in<br />
their various permutations such as bunnychows, rotis<br />
<strong>and</strong> good old curry-<strong>and</strong>-rice. Johnny’s is so revered<br />
that <strong>its</strong> signage has appeared in galleries <strong>and</strong> there<br />
are more than 5000 members of <strong>its</strong> facebook group.<br />
FIND IT AT: Corner of Problem Mkhize <strong>and</strong> Clarence Roads, Greyville FIND IT AT: Moses Kotane Road, Overport<br />
FIND IT: All over <strong>Durban</strong><br />
39
EATING OUTDOORS In recent years <strong>Durban</strong>ites have increasingly taken<br />
<strong>to</strong> the pavements. Under apartheid <strong>to</strong>wn planning, the use of public<br />
space was strictly controlled, <strong>and</strong> it has taken many years for both the<br />
general public <strong>and</strong> the city’s restaurants <strong>to</strong> slowly creep out in<strong>to</strong> the<br />
alfresco pleasures of pavement dining. This movement gained momentum<br />
during the Fifa World Cup, as venues around the city exp<strong>and</strong>ed their<br />
seating areas in order <strong>to</strong> accommodate the increased numbers of patrons.<br />
FIND IT AT: Cafe Jiran, on the northern end of the beachfront promenade<br />
40<br />
Peace For the ultimate in karma-free cuisine, head <strong>to</strong> the<br />
Temple of Underst<strong>and</strong>ing in Chatsworth, where the lavish<br />
structure invites spiritual contemplation <strong>and</strong> the restaurant<br />
provides sumptuously wholesome food for the body <strong>and</strong> soul.<br />
FLORIDA ROAD offers some of <strong>Durban</strong>’s finest restaurants<br />
with new venues opening all the time. One of Morningside’s<br />
leafiest, most picturesque roads, it is becoming something<br />
of a culinary high street for <strong>Durban</strong> diners. From the relaxed<br />
pavement ambience of Spiga D’Oro <strong>to</strong> the eastern tastes of<br />
Mo Noodles <strong>and</strong> Sunrise House of Curries, there’s something<br />
for every palate as well as a good selection of coffee.<br />
FIND IT AT: Florida Road, Morningside<br />
ROMA REVOLVING RESTAURANT A visit <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>Durban</strong> isn’t really complete without dinner at<br />
the Roma. One of about 30 such structures<br />
around the world, <strong>its</strong> Italianate decor provides<br />
a surreal contrast <strong>to</strong> <strong>its</strong> magnificent views of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>. The food is conventional high-end Italian<br />
fare with a sumptuous ’70s style dessert trolley.<br />
FIND IT: on Margaret Mncadi Avenue
Organic Food in <strong>Durban</strong> The<br />
market for organic food in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
is still relatively small, although as<br />
in most places, it is rapidly<br />
exp<strong>and</strong>ing as savvy middle-class<br />
consumers increasingly question<br />
the quality of industrially produced<br />
food. Most of the large supermarket<br />
chains have organic ranges,<br />
although there is usually a hefty<br />
premium charged for the privelige.<br />
While many restaurants in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
source much of their fresh produce<br />
from organic farmers, only Earth<br />
Mother Organic in Bulwer Road<br />
claims <strong>to</strong> be completely organic.<br />
In addition <strong>to</strong> a small restaurant<br />
that makes food so delicious you’d<br />
never think it was healthy, Earth<br />
Mother also has a s<strong>to</strong>re which sells<br />
a wide variety of organic home<br />
consumables, from Goji berries<br />
sourced from Tibet <strong>to</strong> locally<br />
produced face creams <strong>and</strong> washing<br />
powder. Additionally, Earth Mother<br />
also has a regular supply of organic<br />
fruit <strong>and</strong> veg. But while the organic<br />
sec<strong>to</strong>r is still small, the quality of<br />
fresh produce is particularly<br />
high, since most of it is sourced<br />
from small-scale, farmers who use<br />
non-intensive farming methods.<br />
Moyo<br />
1 Bell Street<br />
uShaka Village Walk<br />
+27 31 332 0606<br />
Johnny’s Chip-Inn<br />
Ranch<br />
88 Moses Kotane<br />
Road, Overport<br />
+27 31 209 2020<br />
Roma Revolving<br />
Restaurant<br />
32nd Floor John Ross<br />
House<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>ria Embankment<br />
+27 31 368 2275<br />
Café 1999<br />
Shop 2 Silvervause<br />
Centre<br />
117 Vause Road<br />
Berea<br />
+27 31 202 3406<br />
Craft<br />
35 Newport Avenue<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> North<br />
+27 31 562 1951<br />
A NEW AFRICAN CUISINE is beginning <strong>to</strong> exercise an influence<br />
on <strong>Durban</strong>’s eateries. The bunnychow has begun <strong>to</strong> appear in upmarket<br />
restaurants, <strong>and</strong> South African classics such as pap-en-vleis,<br />
koeksisters, samp-<strong>and</strong>-beans <strong>and</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> curry have all arrived,<br />
finally unembarrassed, on our tables in restaurants such as<br />
Moyo. Also providing a unique local flavour is the presence<br />
of game <strong>and</strong> African meats such as ostrich <strong>and</strong> crocodile.<br />
TASTE IT AT: Moyo, uShaka Marine World, <strong>Durban</strong> Point<br />
Buds on the Bay<br />
Bayhead Park C<br />
30 Grunter’s Gully<br />
+27 31 466 6100<br />
Bel Pun<strong>to</strong><br />
1 South Beach Road<br />
Umdloti Beach<br />
+27 31 568 2407<br />
Arts Café<br />
166 Bulwer Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 201 9969<br />
Vintage India<br />
20 Lilian Ngoyi Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 309 1328<br />
Daruma<br />
63 Snell Parade<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Beach Front<br />
+27 31 337 0423<br />
The Cargo Hold<br />
1 Bell Street<br />
uShaka Marine World<br />
+27 31 328 8065<br />
China Plate<br />
11 Browns Drift Road<br />
Riverside<br />
+27 31 564 6437<br />
Cake & Satay House<br />
Albert Ndlomo Road<br />
Umbilo<br />
+27 82 716 3793<br />
Delfi<br />
386 Lilian Ngoyi Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 7032<br />
Bangkok Wok<br />
116 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 8250<br />
Spiga D’Oro<br />
200 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 9511<br />
Joop’s Place<br />
9th Avenue<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 31 312 9135<br />
Restaurants<br />
Palki<br />
225 Musgrave Road<br />
Berea<br />
+27 31 201 0019<br />
Mo’s Noodles<br />
275 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 4193<br />
9th Avenue Bistro<br />
9th Avenue<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 9134<br />
Market<br />
40 Gladys Mazibuko<br />
Road, Berea<br />
+27 31 309 8581<br />
Czar<br />
178 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 8001<br />
Little Gujerat<br />
107 Dr Goonam Street<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 306 2272<br />
41
AS IS THE CASE WITH MANY AFRICAN CITIES, DURBAN’S<br />
architectural his<strong>to</strong>ry reflects that of <strong>its</strong> colonial predecessors.<br />
Yet the City’s expansion over the years has been sufficiently<br />
consistent <strong>to</strong> ensure that it now showcases a wide diversity<br />
of architectural forms. From <strong>its</strong> Edwardian <strong>and</strong> Vic<strong>to</strong>rian<br />
beginnings, more than 150 years of global architectural<br />
trends have been compressed in<strong>to</strong> a single city. And as<br />
the new South Africa crystalises, a new architectural voice<br />
is heard singing a beautiful local language.<br />
In 2008 <strong>Durban</strong> won the bid <strong>to</strong> host the World Architecture<br />
Conference taking place in 2014, giving the city a chance<br />
<strong>to</strong> showcase <strong>its</strong> eclectic architecture <strong>and</strong> the complex<br />
dem<strong>and</strong>s made on architects in South Africa.<br />
Although taking place on a far smaller scale than the<br />
2010 Fifa World Cup, this prestigious event will enhance<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s profile on the global stage, while the uniquely<br />
layered nature of the City will no doubt impact on the<br />
minds <strong>and</strong> output of architects around the world in the<br />
coming decades.<br />
42<br />
BUILDING<br />
LAS VEGAS st<strong>and</strong>s as a monument <strong>to</strong> another time that never quite<br />
existed in <strong>Durban</strong>. Probably the city’s strongest reference <strong>to</strong> BRAZILIAN<br />
MODERNISM, the luxurious building (only three apartments per<br />
floor) converts the notion of the residential highrise in<strong>to</strong> a thing of<br />
free-form beauty filled with idiosyncratic detailing. Its s<strong>to</strong>ne-walled<br />
lobby alone is a piece of anachronistic delight that the international<br />
design set would die for. The building was designed by Benjamin<br />
<strong>and</strong> Croft, an architectural firm that built many of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most<br />
meticulously designed buildings, including Westpoint <strong>and</strong> The Riviera.<br />
See it at: 276 Suncoast Drive, Beachfront<br />
ART DECO BUILDINGS <strong>Durban</strong> has one of the world’s largest<br />
concentrations of art deco buildings. One of the few<br />
architectural styles in which the detailing is incorporated<br />
absolutely in<strong>to</strong> the design, this deco legacy is one of the most<br />
well-loved aspects of <strong>Durban</strong>’s architectural heritage. The<br />
detailing is often infused with local symbolism. BEREA COURT<br />
<strong>and</strong> Surrey Mansions are two of the most striking examples.<br />
See it at: 3 Hunt Rd, Glenwood
THE FASCIST ARCHITECTURE of apartheid South<br />
Africa still marks the l<strong>and</strong>scape in much of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>, including the Mansfield campus of the<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> University of Technology, CR SWART<br />
SQUARE <strong>and</strong> the <strong>Durban</strong> Station. The forms are<br />
vast <strong>and</strong> blunt in their design, although the sheer<br />
scale <strong>and</strong> brutal aesthetic appeals <strong>to</strong> some. These<br />
buildings often had political over<strong>to</strong>nes <strong>and</strong><br />
functions. The police residences next <strong>to</strong> CR Swart<br />
Police Station, for example, were built with the<br />
explicit but unspoken purpose of swelling a leftwing<br />
area with conservative National Party voters.<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Station, which used <strong>to</strong> be the City’s most<br />
brutal example of fascist architecture has slowly<br />
undergone a facelift in recent years, <strong>and</strong> is now<br />
a much friendlier <strong>and</strong> more welcoming space.<br />
See it at: 3 Stalwart Simelane Rd, City Centre<br />
THE JUMA MUSJID MOSQUE in Yusuf Dadoo Street is one of the largest<br />
mosques in the Southern Hemisphere. Also known as the GREY STREET<br />
MOSQUE, it represents a spiritual centre for <strong>Durban</strong>’s Muslims. It was<br />
built in 1930, <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>gether with Madressa Arcade which runs through<br />
it, replaced the original series of buildings that had popped up with the<br />
arrival of non-indentured Indians in <strong>Durban</strong> in the late 1800s. The<br />
mosque is actually a series of interlinking buildings, arcades <strong>and</strong> corridors,<br />
in which commerce, religion <strong>and</strong> community exist in equilibrium.<br />
See it at: 176 Yusuf Dadoo Street, the Indian Quarter<br />
The <strong>Durban</strong> Art Deco Society was formed in 2002 <strong>to</strong> raise awareness of the<br />
rich diversity of art deco architectural styles that exist in the city <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> attract<br />
the annual International Art Deco Conference <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>. In addition, the society<br />
aims <strong>to</strong> highlight the importance of preserving art deco buildings in eThekwini.<br />
The Society run regular <strong>to</strong>urs exploring aspects of <strong>Durban</strong>’s deco heritage.<br />
Contact Helen Labuschagne for further information on +27 31 301 1951.<br />
ETHEKWINI MUNICIPALITY’S CITY ARCHITECTS effectively constitute <strong>Durban</strong>’s largest interdisciplainary<br />
firm of architects, urban designers, quantity surveyors <strong>and</strong> engineers. The department is responsible for the delivery<br />
of Municipal-owned building infrastructure, as well as the refurbishment of key his<strong>to</strong>rical l<strong>and</strong>marks, the development<br />
of the ICC <strong>and</strong> the ICC Arena as well as social, cultural <strong>and</strong> sporting facilities in <strong>Durban</strong>’s outlying areas. The<br />
department’s portfolio includes a broad range of projects, including built structures <strong>and</strong> strategic projects.<br />
43
THE KENDRA HALL While easily identified as a Hindu temple – particularly<br />
when it is draped in festive lights – the John Zikhali Road m<strong>and</strong>ir is an<br />
unusual structure, <strong>and</strong> very different <strong>to</strong> the multitude of temples you will<br />
see around <strong>Durban</strong>, which are mostly South Indian in origin. The m<strong>and</strong>ir<br />
is built from a North Indian architectural perspective <strong>and</strong> incorporates<br />
symbolic elements such as flowering lotuses as part of <strong>its</strong> structure, rather<br />
than using them decoratively as is more often the case.<br />
See it at: 5 John Zikhali Road, Central <strong>Durban</strong> See it at: 430 Dr Pixley KaSema Street<br />
44<br />
AMAFA <strong>Durban</strong> is a young city, <strong>and</strong> as such, all structures<br />
older than 60 years are protected by heritage legislation<br />
which requires a permit from heritage body Amafa before<br />
any demolitions, alterations or additions may take place.<br />
THE WAREHOUSES ON THE POINT , built between 1890<br />
<strong>and</strong> 1919, are a fine <strong>and</strong> representative group of Vic<strong>to</strong>rian<br />
structures <strong>and</strong> point <strong>to</strong> a time when remarkable attention<br />
was paid <strong>to</strong> the design <strong>and</strong> detailing of even the most functional<br />
buildings. As the Point is upgraded <strong>and</strong> developed, these<br />
buildings, as well as the Vic<strong>to</strong>rian wood-<strong>and</strong>-iron houses<br />
behind them, have been getting a well deserved face-lift.<br />
See it at: 280-430 Mahatma G<strong>and</strong>hi Street, The Point<br />
THE CENTRAL POST OFFICE was originally built<br />
as a <strong>to</strong>wn hall but by the early 20th Century it had<br />
been converted <strong>to</strong> serve <strong>its</strong> current function. This<br />
was before the age of the skyscraper, <strong>and</strong> the Post<br />
Office <strong>and</strong> the new City Hall were then the defining<br />
elements of <strong>Durban</strong>’s skyline. Today they are dwarfed<br />
by the highrise construction of the CBD.
DESIGN WORKSHOP : SA are the celebrated<br />
architects of the CONSTITUTIONAL COURT in<br />
Johannesburg. Practising from a converted<br />
apartment building in <strong>Durban</strong>’s Florida Road,<br />
Design Workshop’s portfolio of work includes<br />
innovative new<strong>to</strong>wn renovations,<br />
airports <strong>and</strong> a host of awardwinning<br />
commercial, institutional<br />
<strong>and</strong> residential properties.<br />
www.designworkshopsa.com<br />
A NEW AFRICAN ARCHITECTURE is emerging from firms<br />
such as EAST COAST ARCHITECTS who resist the pressure<br />
from consumers <strong>and</strong> developers alike <strong>to</strong> produce globally<br />
generic housing estates. The focus is on local content, form<br />
<strong>and</strong> references, <strong>and</strong> from this starting point<br />
a new aesthetic is born. A celebrated example<br />
of their work is Inthuthuka Junction, a<br />
multipurpose structure in Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor.<br />
See it at: 759 Rick Turner Road<br />
THE MOSES MABHIDA STADIUM ’s iconic form is the result of a tender<br />
competition won by a consortium which includes local architects THEUNISSEN<br />
JANKOWITZ DURBAN <strong>and</strong> national firm OSMOND LANGE. The world-class<br />
stadium’s 150m high arch is an integral structural element which provides<br />
the support for the cable net of the suspension roof structure. The arch<br />
sports stairs <strong>and</strong> a cable car, allowing visi<strong>to</strong>rs an incredible view of the city.<br />
The stadium was built with the future in mind, both in terms of the Olympics,<br />
<strong>and</strong> in terms of sustainable design, which includes optimal use of energy<br />
<strong>and</strong> natural light, rainwater collection <strong>and</strong> re-using 30 000 cubic<br />
metres of concrete from the demolished stadium which preceded it.<br />
See it at: Isaiah Ntshange Road, off Masabala Yengwa Avenue<br />
45
THE KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL ARIPORT at La Mercy was designed<br />
by OSMOND LANGE ARCHITECTS AND PLANNERS in collaboration with<br />
several local firms including RUBEN REDDY ARCHITECTS (pictured). Plans<br />
for the airport were first mooted in the early ’70s <strong>and</strong> finally got underway<br />
in 2006, after studies showed that the existing airport would not be able<br />
<strong>to</strong> cope with future air traffic. On 1 May 2010, the region’s new airport<br />
was opened after a spectularly swift construction process. It will be able<br />
<strong>to</strong> process 7,5 million passengers a year, as well as alleviating pressure<br />
on the <strong>Durban</strong>-Johannesburg route by freighting cargo directly out of the<br />
country. The airport is the central hub in the DUBE TRADE<br />
PORT, a long-term planning initiative that will massively<br />
stimulate the region <strong>and</strong> provide employment for hundreds<br />
of thous<strong>and</strong>s of people over the next two decades.<br />
See it at: King Shaka International Airport, La Mercy<br />
46<br />
CHOROMANSKI ARCHITECTS are the recent<br />
winners of a competition <strong>to</strong> design the Pan<br />
African Parliament buildings. The firm’s style<br />
is defined by a design-driven practice which<br />
seeks appropriate regional<br />
solutions <strong>to</strong> building in South<br />
Africa. The firm also designed<br />
the inspiring Interpretation<br />
Centre in the Isimangaliso area.<br />
The KwaZulu-Natal Institute for Architecture is a voluntary organisation that was founded in 1901. One<br />
of 8 regional institutes of the South African Institute of Architects, the KZNIA represents the interests of architects,<br />
architectural practioners, the public <strong>and</strong> the built environment. It is an active organisation with a key interest in<br />
regional <strong>and</strong> local developments. Every two years the KZNIA confers Awards of Merit on well designed <strong>and</strong> critically<br />
acclaimed projects in the Province. More recently the organisation, under the auspices of the South African Institute<br />
of Architects, won the bid <strong>to</strong> host the world’s largest congress of architects, the UIA Congress, in <strong>Durban</strong> in 2014.
The 2014 UIA Architecture World<br />
Congress will take place in four years<br />
time. In 2008, the South African<br />
Institute of Architects presented a<br />
successful bid in Turin, Italy, <strong>to</strong> host<br />
the prestigious International Union<br />
of Architects Congress in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
in 2014. The UIA (Union Internationale<br />
des Architectes) Congress<br />
<strong>and</strong> General Assembly is held every<br />
three years <strong>and</strong> member sections<br />
bid for the privilege of hosting the<br />
event. The selection is made six<br />
years in advance. Representing 1.3<br />
million architects, the main objective<br />
of the Congress is <strong>to</strong> provide<br />
architects with an opportunity <strong>to</strong><br />
participate in a series of culturally<br />
<strong>and</strong> professionally enriching events.<br />
The UIA is a non-governmental<br />
organisation uniting the professional<br />
associations of architects in over<br />
116 countries internationally.<br />
Around 7 000 architects from<br />
around the world will attend the<br />
Congress in <strong>Durban</strong>, in a global<br />
festival of architecture <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong><br />
possibilities, particularly in the<br />
context of a developing city which<br />
serves such an economically<br />
<strong>and</strong> socially diverse population.<br />
Design Workshop: SA<br />
94 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 5191<br />
Theunissen Jankowitz<br />
14 Glenridge Road<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 8386<br />
Osmond Lange<br />
6 Palm Boulevard<br />
Umhlanga<br />
+27 31 266 0751<br />
Architecture Fabrik<br />
3 Bergthiel Place<br />
Westville<br />
+27 83 366 3478<br />
Emmett Emmett<br />
362 Lilian Ngoyi Rd<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 6498<br />
Seitter Boyd<br />
10a Princess Anne Place<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 261 6233<br />
HARBER & ASSOCIATES Long a stalwart of social architecture<br />
in South Africa, Rodney Harber’s practice has been a key firm<br />
in setting the benchmark for a humanitarian architectural<br />
agenda in eThekwini <strong>and</strong> beyond. From Maputal<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> the<br />
former Transkei, Harber has been instrumental in developing<br />
community centres <strong>and</strong> low-cost housing<br />
models, his practice always centred on the<br />
participation of those who will actually use<br />
the structures <strong>and</strong> spaces that he designs.<br />
Seen here: G<strong>and</strong>hi’s house in Phoenix<br />
Choromanski Architects<br />
490 Lillian Ngoyi Road<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 31 303 2985<br />
Elphick Proome<br />
Westway Office Park<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 275 5800<br />
Pa<strong>to</strong>n Taylor<br />
892 Umgeni Road<br />
Stamford Hill<br />
+27 31 313 1071<br />
Architronic<br />
1 Meyrick Ave<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 201 3933<br />
Studio 88<br />
23 Arcadia Road<br />
Overport<br />
+27 31 207 6571<br />
Bruce Clark Associates<br />
152 JB Marks Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 201 5909<br />
Architecture Firms<br />
Stauch Vorster<br />
10 Intersite Avenue<br />
Umgeni Park<br />
+27 31 263 8200<br />
GAPP<br />
11 Cranbrook Crescent<br />
Umhlanga<br />
+27 31 566 5547<br />
MAB Ikhwezi<br />
76 Valley View Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 2833<br />
Harber & Associates<br />
PO Box 50062<br />
Musgrave<br />
+27 31 209 8384<br />
Sakhisizwe<br />
16 Soltice Road<br />
Umhlanga Ridge<br />
+27 31 566 6962<br />
Robert Johnson Architect<br />
127 Stephen Dlamini Road<br />
Musgrave<br />
+27 31 201 3538<br />
47
IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING THAT IS<br />
is perfectly representative of <strong>Durban</strong> design you’ll be<br />
disappointed, since no single object can express the<br />
multiplicity of perspectives that combine <strong>to</strong> produce<br />
something that is unmistakably but intangibly <strong>Durban</strong>. And<br />
that thing is defined more by the smell of the air <strong>and</strong> the<br />
vibrancy <strong>and</strong> edginess of the city’s streets than by any kind<br />
of unifying ethos.<br />
In a country with 11 official languages <strong>and</strong> only partial<br />
literacy, it’s not surprising that in <strong>Durban</strong> visual culture<br />
reigns supreme. In recent years, a culture of local design<br />
has blossomed in South Africa. This is partially due <strong>to</strong> the<br />
fact that many local designers have received the prestige<br />
of international recognition, but also due <strong>to</strong> a change in<br />
the attitude of South African consumers who are finally<br />
eschewing international designs in favour of a local idiom.<br />
As such, local design <strong>and</strong> interior shops which used <strong>to</strong><br />
focus almost exclusively on imports, now showcase a<br />
variety of locally inspired output, some of it echoing<br />
international trends. but the bulk of it executed in a fresh<br />
<strong>and</strong> everchanging design language.<br />
48<br />
DESIGN<br />
BARBER SHOP SIGNS As the nature of <strong>Durban</strong>’s streets began<br />
<strong>to</strong> change after 1994, pavement barber shops started popping<br />
up all over eThekwini, accompanied by often beautifully painted<br />
BARBER SHOP SIGNS. The most recognised<br />
exponent of this much loved genre of illustration<br />
is BRUNO BIHIZA, a Congolese refugee who has<br />
since taken his illustration skills <strong>to</strong> London.<br />
SEE IT: in the centre of <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
BEADWORK in <strong>Durban</strong> has evolved substantially in the last<br />
decade, particularly as skilled artists from neighbouring countries<br />
have filtered in<strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>to</strong> sell their wares on the city’s streets.<br />
No longer restricted <strong>to</strong> Zulu love letters <strong>and</strong><br />
keychains, beadworkers such as JACQUES<br />
SENGEYA produce a large variety of beaded<br />
objects from decorative animals <strong>to</strong> light fittings.<br />
SEE IT: at Avonmore Centre, Greyville
THE PAINTED BUSES If you’re a pedestrian or a driver, a quick look<br />
at one of the hundreds of beautifully decorated buses is enough <strong>to</strong><br />
brighten your day. Filled with humour, irreverence, k<strong>its</strong>ch <strong>and</strong> spirituality,<br />
many of these buses are painted by NISHAL RAMDHIN.<br />
A pioneer of au<strong>to</strong>motive brush art, his mobile art is<br />
seen all over <strong>Durban</strong>. This love of cus<strong>to</strong>misation is also<br />
evident in the designs of the city’s countless taxis.<br />
SEE IT: on the streets of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
CHRISTIAN MUGNAI is an artist, designer <strong>and</strong> illustra<strong>to</strong>r<br />
whose work is strongly influenced by the cultural <strong>and</strong><br />
visual diversity of eThekwini <strong>and</strong> expressed in a graphic<br />
language with universal appeal. Says<br />
Mugnai, “I feel the real purpose of my art<br />
is <strong>to</strong> share with the world a little of what<br />
inspires me in everyday life here in <strong>Durban</strong>.”<br />
www.flickr.com/pho<strong>to</strong>s/mugnaiart<br />
HAND-PAINTED SIGNAGE is something that is disappearing<br />
in this age of digital reproduction. But it survives in small<br />
pockets of <strong>Durban</strong>, <strong>and</strong> ironically, has once again become<br />
popular with local graphic designers. SLIM<br />
does the signage for Johnny’s Chip Inn Ranch<br />
whose ‘specials’ boards are cult items <strong>and</strong><br />
have even made it in<strong>to</strong> local art galleries.<br />
SEE IT: at Johnnys in Sparks Road, Overport<br />
49
MR WALKER Browse through a few international<br />
design journals <strong>and</strong> you’ll often come across the<br />
name GARTH WALKER. Walker is a world class<br />
design authority who previously headed Orange<br />
Juice Design <strong>and</strong> whose new agency<br />
MR WALKER continues <strong>to</strong> reflect<br />
the graphic polyphony of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
visually rich streets in a single vision.<br />
www.misterwalkerdesign.com<br />
NOKWAKHA KHOBA is one of the many SEAMSTRESSES<br />
whose African-style dresses are sold on the streets of <strong>Durban</strong>,<br />
<strong>and</strong> which form an integral part of the domestic fashion cycle.<br />
These dresses, made in African fabric, reflect<br />
the Vic<strong>to</strong>rian styles of European colonialists.<br />
At the same time they inform contemporary<br />
fashion <strong>and</strong> are, in turn, influenced by it.<br />
SEE IT: Dr Goonam Street, City Centre<br />
50<br />
NOBELUNGU NGCOBO is a traditional beadworker who is gradually making<br />
a transition <strong>to</strong> artist <strong>and</strong> businesswoman. Ngcobo heads the Gcina Cooperative<br />
with the support of the Municipality’s In<strong>and</strong>a/KwaMashu/Ntuzuma<br />
area-based management programme. Although her core<br />
business is jewellery based on Zulu designs, she has started<br />
<strong>to</strong> produce more pic<strong>to</strong>rially based work, including a number<br />
of soccer-based designs <strong>to</strong> cater for the World Cup.<br />
SEE IT: at the annual SMME Business Fair
EGG DESIGNS is an interior <strong>and</strong> product design company headed by GREG<br />
<strong>and</strong> ROCHÉ DRY. Egg have designed interiors <strong>and</strong> furniture for an array of<br />
local clients, as well as lighting their gorgeously idiosyncratic fires around the<br />
world. Having won acclaim at international<br />
design shows, they now supply their<br />
product ranges <strong>to</strong> New York, Hong Kong <strong>and</strong><br />
beyond, as well as catering <strong>to</strong> the local market.<br />
www.eggdesigns.co.za<br />
Making local, selling global The rise of globalism has meant<br />
that the market for local craft <strong>and</strong> design has radically increased.<br />
While global trade isn’t always mutually beneficial, for talented<br />
local crafters <strong>and</strong> entrepreneurs it’s a win-win situation.<br />
RICHARD STRETTON produces high-end, h<strong>and</strong>-crafted<br />
objects as diverse as beds, buildings <strong>and</strong> breadboards. And<br />
while his pared down designs might have more than a little<br />
Zen about them, they are forged in an aesthetic<br />
<strong>and</strong> culture of functionality that is essentially<br />
African. Stret<strong>to</strong>n’s work includes the new MOYO<br />
restaurant on the end of a newly built pier.<br />
www.koopdesign.co.za<br />
CLINTON NAIDOO & MARKLYN GOVENDER are<br />
master MEHNDI artists. Using henna paste, delicate<br />
patterns are painted on the h<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> feet. While<br />
mehndi has a<br />
special place at<br />
Indian weddings, it<br />
is also worn as<br />
virtual jewellery.<br />
51
DISTURBANCE are an independent design agency <strong>and</strong> masters of<br />
their craft. With RICHARD HART, ROGER JARDINE <strong>and</strong> SUZIE HART at<br />
the helm, the team produces award-winning, illustration-rich work.<br />
Their most memorable output includes their campaigns for the <strong>Durban</strong><br />
International Film Festival, <strong>and</strong> Sheet, a legendary<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> fanzine. The work that is shown here are three<br />
of a series of CITY GUIDE fold-out maps that disturbance<br />
produced for the eThekwini Municipality.<br />
52<br />
www.disturbance.co.za<br />
RAJEEN RAMDUTH is one of the TAILORS OF<br />
GREY STREET who are famous in South Africa for<br />
their skills in suit-making. Many clothing<br />
connoisseurs choose the tailors of the Indian<br />
quarter over well-known designers<br />
while their skills are often used<br />
by designers themselves, when<br />
precision tailoring is required.<br />
SEE IT: in Yusuf Dadoo Street<br />
NANDA SOOBBEN is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most unsung talents.<br />
A gifted artist <strong>and</strong> graphic designer, he is one of South Africa’s<br />
leading political car<strong>to</strong>onists. In addition, he is opening doors<br />
for young new South African design talent<br />
with his Centre for Fine Art, Animation <strong>and</strong><br />
Design. Soobben recently received an<br />
Honourary Doc<strong>to</strong>rate from Rhodes University.<br />
www.cfad.co.za
I HEART MARKET is a roving market<br />
which showcases a variety of local<br />
designers <strong>and</strong> crafters, many of whom<br />
are riding the 21st century trend of h<strong>and</strong>work<br />
<strong>and</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mised design. With great<br />
coffee <strong>and</strong> a selection of mouthwatering<br />
home-made foods available, this market<br />
is also something of a social occasion.<br />
www.iheartmarket.blogspot.com<br />
Advertising Agencies<br />
Ogilvy <strong>Durban</strong><br />
76 Mahatma Gh<strong>and</strong>i Road<br />
<strong>Durban</strong><br />
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Whalley & Associates<br />
63 Lillian Ngoyi Road<br />
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031 303 2871<br />
TBWA Hunt Lascaris <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Nelson Road<br />
Westville<br />
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The Hardy Boys<br />
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River Horse Valley East<br />
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Flagship Communications<br />
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Musgrave<br />
031 202 8401<br />
O’Donoghue & Associates<br />
Advertising<br />
641 Peter Mokaba Road<br />
Berea<br />
031 208 6166<br />
Design & Advertising<br />
Design Agencies<br />
Disturbance Design<br />
22 Prains Avenue<br />
Berea<br />
031 202 0052<br />
Egg Designs<br />
Private Bag x1003<br />
Botha’s Hill 3660<br />
031 783 4953<br />
Mister Walker Design<br />
33 Churchill Road<br />
Stamford Hill<br />
031 312 0572<br />
Koop Design<br />
200 Montpelier Road<br />
Morningside<br />
031 303 3922<br />
Artworks Communications<br />
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The Fire Tree Design<br />
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Printers<br />
Ellison Printing Company<br />
124 S<strong>and</strong>ile Thusi Road<br />
Morningside<br />
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Impress Printers<br />
142 Intersite Avenue<br />
Umgeni Business Park<br />
031 263 2755<br />
Atlas Printers<br />
71 Marseilles Crescent<br />
Briardene Industrial Park<br />
031 570 8600<br />
ACME Printing Works<br />
435 Umgeni Road<br />
<strong>Durban</strong><br />
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Aim Print<br />
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Springfield Park<br />
031 579 5577<br />
Universal Print Group<br />
72 Stanhope Place<br />
Briardene<br />
031 560 2100<br />
The <strong>Durban</strong> Station in Umgeni<br />
Road is home <strong>to</strong> a wealth of<br />
beautifully designed indigenous<br />
objects, including an ever<br />
evolving catalogue of shoe<br />
designs, ingeniously constructed<br />
from unlikely offcuts <strong>and</strong> waste<br />
material. The shoes you see<br />
here are made mostly from<br />
recycled tyres <strong>and</strong> tyre offcuts.<br />
53
DURBAN HAS A RICH LITERARY HISTORY<br />
which has contributed greatly <strong>to</strong> the cultural <strong>and</strong><br />
intellectual life of South Africa. From the relentless<br />
activism <strong>and</strong> intellectual rigour of Dennis Brutus’<br />
writing <strong>to</strong> the fervent cry for awareness, compassion<br />
<strong>and</strong> equality that is at the heart of Gcina Mhlophe’s<br />
work, the literature of <strong>Durban</strong> is one of the most<br />
complete records of the culture of protest <strong>and</strong><br />
activism that is an essential element of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
broader l<strong>and</strong>scape.<br />
Of course, <strong>Durban</strong> is also a l<strong>and</strong> of fantasy <strong>and</strong><br />
imagination, nostalgia <strong>and</strong> memory, <strong>and</strong> the works<br />
of younger writers such as Bridget McNulty whose<br />
magical realism has exploded on the web <strong>and</strong> John<br />
van der Ruit who has enjoyed enormous success<br />
with the Spud series, show that well-<strong>to</strong>ld s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />
that capture the popular imagination will always<br />
find their readers.<br />
54<br />
WRITING<br />
JOHN VAN DE RUIT made literary his<strong>to</strong>ry in South Africa<br />
with the runaway success of his novel Spud, forever dispelling<br />
the notion that local novels can’t compete with blockbuster<br />
imports such as JK Rowling. With sales of the first<br />
book moving <strong>to</strong>wards two hundred thous<strong>and</strong> copies,<br />
two sequels <strong>and</strong> a movie starring John Cleese, the modest<br />
Van de Ruit, who is also an ac<strong>to</strong>r, has much <strong>to</strong> smile about.<br />
Read: Spud, Learning <strong>to</strong> Fly, The Madness Continues<br />
DENNIS BRUTUS was one of Africa’s most influential poets, as well<br />
as an activist, educa<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong> journalist. The driving force behind the<br />
apartheid sports boycott, he was imprisoned on Robben Isl<strong>and</strong> for 16<br />
months in the cell next <strong>to</strong> Nelson M<strong>and</strong>ela. Brutus spent most of his<br />
life fighting inequity, both during apartheid <strong>and</strong> after the liberation<br />
of South Africa. In 2008, he was awarded a Lifetime Honourary Award<br />
by the Department of Arts <strong>and</strong> Culture. Brutus died in 2009.<br />
Read: Sirens, Knuckles <strong>and</strong> Boots, Poetry & Protest
IMRAAN COOVADIA writes novels that span the globe, much like<br />
the life of the writer himself. Coovadia has lived in London,<br />
Melbourne, Bos<strong>to</strong>n <strong>and</strong> New York – but always holds <strong>Durban</strong> in his<br />
heart. Coovadia recently won the 2010 University of Johannesburg<br />
Prize for Creative Writing in English for his latest novel High Low<br />
In-between. He is currently working on a new novel, Witchcraft, set<br />
in <strong>Durban</strong>, which focuses on the HIV/AIDS epidemic in South Africa.<br />
Read: The Wedding, Green Eyed Thieves, High Low In-between<br />
TIME OF THE WRITER is an annual international<br />
festival of writing which is presented by the University<br />
of KwaZulu-Natal’s Centre for Creative Arts. Every year,<br />
more than 20 writers from around the world are<br />
involved in a variety of readings, presentations, panel<br />
discussions <strong>and</strong> debates, giving audience members a<br />
rare public glimpse of the inner world of writing.<br />
www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/<strong>to</strong>tw<br />
GCINA MHLOPHE is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most iconic literary<br />
talents. A gifted performer <strong>and</strong> writer, there is something in<br />
Mhlophe that is quintessentially eThekwini; in her hardness<br />
<strong>and</strong> softness <strong>and</strong> in the fervour <strong>and</strong> honesty with which she<br />
expresses herself. Mhlophe’s breakthrough work Have You<br />
Seen Z<strong>and</strong>ile put her on an award-winning career path that<br />
is intimately linked <strong>to</strong> the people <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong>scape of KZN.<br />
Read: Love Child, Have You Seen Z<strong>and</strong>ile?<br />
55
BRIDGET MCNULTY is the perfect example of a new generation of<br />
writers whose printed matter works in t<strong>and</strong>em with digital media such<br />
as blogging <strong>and</strong> tweeting. McNulty didn’t have a hard time persuading<br />
Penguin <strong>to</strong> publish her magical debut novel, but she ensured <strong>its</strong> success<br />
<strong>and</strong> established herself as a strong South African voice through an ongoing<br />
digital media campaign. She was recently diagnosed with diabetes,<br />
<strong>and</strong> has earned additional acclaim for her writing on the subject.<br />
Read: Strange Nervous Laughter<br />
56<br />
Ike’s Books<strong>to</strong>re in Greyville is central <strong>to</strong> the literary his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
Started by the late Ike Mayet, a celebrated local activist, Ike’s is a book s<strong>to</strong>re<br />
in the classic mould, with a strong collection of Africana <strong>and</strong> first editions.<br />
POETRY AFRICA is a week-long celebration of poetry<br />
hosted by the University of KwaZulu-Natal’s Centre for<br />
Creative Arts. A sister event <strong>to</strong> Time of the Writer, the<br />
festival features poets from all over the world participating<br />
in an array of readings, panel discussions <strong>and</strong> workshops.<br />
www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/poetryafrica<br />
KZN Literary Tourism started life as a National Research Foundation<br />
project at the University of KwaZulu-Natal <strong>and</strong> has since grown <strong>to</strong> become<br />
the main documenter of literary heritage in the province. The organisation<br />
relies on strategic partnerships with the eThekwini Municipality, sponsorship<br />
from business <strong>and</strong> grants from the National Arts Council <strong>to</strong> produce a<br />
series of writers trails, along with accompanying physical <strong>and</strong> online<br />
documents. KZN Writers Trails include Pa<strong>to</strong>n’s Pietermaritzburg, the Grey<br />
Street Writers Trail, the Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor Writers Trail <strong>and</strong>, most recently, the<br />
Midl<strong>and</strong>s Writers Trail, which has just been launched.
City Paper eThekwini Municipality<br />
publishes the newspaper Ezasegagasini<br />
Metro every two weeks as a means of<br />
engaging directly with the residents<br />
<strong>and</strong> ratepayers of eThekwini. In<br />
addition <strong>to</strong> providing news about<br />
significant municipal events <strong>and</strong> their<br />
impact on people’s lives, the publication<br />
also serves as a space <strong>to</strong> publish<br />
tenders <strong>and</strong> other documents that are<br />
legally required <strong>to</strong> be published.<br />
Exclusive Books<br />
Shop 339/340<br />
Pavilion Shopping<br />
Centre, Westville<br />
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Road, Glenwood<br />
+27 31 202 8931<br />
Adams Booksellers<br />
& Stationers<br />
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Ike’s Books &<br />
Collectables<br />
48a Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
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KOBUS MOOLMAN is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most acclaimed poets<br />
<strong>and</strong> playwrights. His writing is clear <strong>and</strong> precise with a<br />
remarkable emotional power that doesn’t p<strong>and</strong>er <strong>to</strong> sentiment.<br />
Moolman won the 2001 Ingrid Jonker prize for his debut<br />
poetry collection Time Like S<strong>to</strong>ne <strong>and</strong> has gone on <strong>to</strong> win<br />
several other awards, including a Pansa Jury Prize for Best<br />
Script for his play Full Circle, which premiered in 2005 at<br />
Grahams<strong>to</strong>wn. Currently teaching at the University of KwaZulu-<br />
Natal, Moolman is also a respected <strong>and</strong> sensitive literary critic.<br />
Read: Full Circle, Time Like S<strong>to</strong>ne, Light <strong>and</strong> After<br />
Books & Books<br />
Shop 42<br />
Kensing<strong>to</strong>n Square<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> North<br />
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Shopping Centre<br />
Westville<br />
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Pro Visions Books<br />
37f Bram Fischer<br />
(Ordnance) Road<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> City<br />
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Book Base<br />
275 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 3555<br />
ABC Bookshop<br />
Gateway Shopping<br />
Centre<br />
Umhlanga Ridge<br />
+27 31 566 2762<br />
Premier Book<br />
Bazaar<br />
149 Joe Slovo<br />
Street, City Centre<br />
+27 31 306 2914<br />
Chapter Two -<br />
Waterfall<br />
25 Waterfall Shopping<br />
Centre, Waterfall<br />
+27 31 764 2462<br />
Conis<strong>to</strong>n Books<br />
111 Helen Joseph<br />
Road, Glenwood<br />
+27 31 202 1228<br />
Book S<strong>to</strong>res<br />
Msasa Books<br />
Shop 22 Village<br />
Centre<br />
Hillcrest<br />
+27 31 765 4946<br />
Great Books<br />
14 Granada Centre<br />
Umhlanga Rocks<br />
+27 83 321 7872<br />
Kloof & Highway<br />
SPCA Book S<strong>to</strong>re<br />
Village Road<br />
Kloof<br />
+27 31 764 1212<br />
Sherwood Books<br />
1 Derby Place<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 9830<br />
57
IN THE LAST HALF DECADE SOUTH AFRICAN ARTISTS<br />
have arrived squarely on the international art scene, with<br />
local artists fetching record prices <strong>and</strong> showing their work<br />
around the world. Many of the country’s leading artists hail<br />
from <strong>Durban</strong>, <strong>and</strong> the city’s role as a nurturer of talent<br />
contributes greatly <strong>to</strong> the creative life of South Africa.<br />
A <strong>to</strong>ur of <strong>Durban</strong>’s galleries will expose you <strong>to</strong> an eclectic<br />
range of creative output that is often very close <strong>to</strong> the<br />
edges of contemporary fine art. From the baroque beauty<br />
of the <strong>Durban</strong> Art Gallery <strong>to</strong> the contemporary spaces of<br />
the KZNSA <strong>and</strong> ArtSpace <strong>Durban</strong>, the works on show will<br />
exp<strong>and</strong> your experience of <strong>Durban</strong> in many wonderful<br />
ways. Additionally, restaurants in the city showcase the<br />
work of local artists, while crafters <strong>and</strong> artists from Southern<br />
Africa <strong>and</strong> beyond sell exquisite <strong>and</strong> often idiosyncratic<br />
creations on the city’s visually rich streets. Barber Shop<br />
art is ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us on the pavements of eThekwini, while<br />
many of our buses <strong>and</strong> taxis have taken the Indian notion<br />
of decorating a vehicle <strong>to</strong> the airbrushed max.<br />
58<br />
ART<br />
THEMBA SHIBASE works within an overtly political context,<br />
exploring notions of the cultural self, always locating the individual<br />
experience within the larger political context. In this way his<br />
work questions concepts such as whiteness,<br />
blackness, Zuluness <strong>and</strong> maleness. In his deftly<br />
constructed paintings, he seems <strong>to</strong> reduce his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
<strong>to</strong> a series of endlessly revolving power figures.<br />
www.artslant.com<br />
ANDREW VERSTER is one of South Africa’s foremost artists,<br />
highly regarded for his drawings, prints <strong>and</strong> paintings. His work<br />
has always expressed the lush <strong>and</strong> tropical atmosphere of <strong>Durban</strong>,<br />
from <strong>its</strong> vegetation <strong>to</strong> <strong>its</strong> beaches <strong>and</strong> surfers.<br />
Having risen <strong>to</strong> fame in the ’60s, Verster continues<br />
<strong>to</strong> produce work at a prodigious rate, <strong>and</strong> has<br />
recently exp<strong>and</strong>ed in<strong>to</strong> wardrobe <strong>and</strong> set design.<br />
www.<strong>and</strong>rewverster.co.za
AMY-JO WINDT makes work that combines art-brutishness with<br />
an inverted exploration of identity <strong>and</strong> representation. Currently<br />
working in collage, video animation <strong>and</strong> installations, Windt's simple<br />
dis<strong>to</strong>rtion of perspective <strong>and</strong> proportion is tinged<br />
with a joyful menace. There is an inherent strangeness<br />
<strong>to</strong> her work that, combined with <strong>its</strong> pop sensibility,<br />
marks Windt's idiom as one that is entirely her own.<br />
www.kznsagallery.co.za/archive_windt.htm<br />
BRONWEN VAUGHAN-EVANS works mainly by painting<br />
black gesso paint over white gesso <strong>and</strong> scratching away<br />
<strong>to</strong> reveal the surface beneath. From her first solo exhibition<br />
– a collection of 101 paintings that constitute the<br />
polycultural reality of her life in <strong>Durban</strong> – Vaughan-Evans<br />
has dramatically exp<strong>and</strong>ed her canvas,<br />
rendering lifesize portra<strong>its</strong> of her<br />
friends <strong>and</strong> intimates, as well as drawing<br />
on the small details of everyday life.<br />
www.vaughan-evans.co.za<br />
DINEO BOPAPE represents a dissection of s<strong>to</strong>ries past<br />
<strong>and</strong> present, her own <strong>and</strong> those of others; s<strong>to</strong>ries belonging<br />
<strong>to</strong> objects <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> people. For Bopape the private realm is<br />
a manifestation of what occurs in public.<br />
She is intrigued, she says, by the angst of<br />
the mundane, “the discomforts that we feel<br />
secretly in our socks <strong>and</strong> our sweaty palms”.<br />
www.seshee.blogspot.com<br />
59
ANGELA BUCKLAND is an award-winning pho<strong>to</strong>grapher whose artistic<br />
work deals with the supposedly ordinary, but which she consistently<br />
imbues with a certain magic. She rejects the term ‘documentary’ <strong>to</strong><br />
describe her approach <strong>to</strong> pho<strong>to</strong>graphy, suggesting<br />
that her images are more about emotional resonance<br />
than hard objective facts. Buckl<strong>and</strong> was the recipient<br />
of the Daimler Chrysler Prize for Fine Art in 2004.<br />
www.angelabuckl<strong>and</strong>pho<strong>to</strong>graphy.com<br />
LANGA MAGWA works with traditional Zulu<br />
forms <strong>and</strong> materials, often twisting <strong>and</strong> renarrating<br />
their conceptual <strong>and</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical<br />
threads <strong>and</strong> playing with scale <strong>and</strong> marks of<br />
identity. At the same time, respect for his<br />
heritage <strong>and</strong> ancestry form<br />
an integral part of his work.<br />
Magwa’s work is found in<br />
many national collections.<br />
www.nu.ac.za/cca<br />
60<br />
ZANELE MUHOLI is a renowned pho<strong>to</strong>grapher<br />
whose work celebrates the lives of black lesbian<br />
women, in the process challenging the his<strong>to</strong>ric<br />
portrayal of black female bodies.<br />
In a few short years, Muholi has had<br />
a remarkable impact, both on the<br />
art scene <strong>and</strong> the broader culture.<br />
www.zanelemuholi.com
DANNY NOVELA walks the streets of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
carrying his beautifully carved sculptures. His work<br />
consists mostly of abstracted carvings of the poorer<br />
people of Southern Africa. While there are other<br />
wood artists who produce<br />
similar work, there are few who<br />
manage <strong>to</strong> imbue their creations<br />
with such a resonant feeling of life.<br />
Find Danny on Florida Road<br />
DOUNG JAHANGEER engages with marginalised people<br />
<strong>and</strong> spaces in urban <strong>Durban</strong>. Rather than partipating in<br />
political condescension, Jahangeer finds a genuine <strong>and</strong><br />
carefully considered aesthetic in the lives <strong>and</strong> architectures<br />
of the poor. Using discarded objects <strong>and</strong> his own magical<br />
visual style, he opens up doors between<br />
parallel worlds. Jahangeer won the<br />
comission for this public sculpture in the<br />
Ellis Park precinct in Johannesburg.<br />
www.dala.org.za<br />
VAUGHN SADIE ’s work has a remarkable depth <strong>and</strong> maturity, suggesting<br />
the work of an artist decades older. Filled with conceptual <strong>and</strong> visual<br />
jokes, his work is at the same time bathed in a yearning melancholy <strong>and</strong><br />
informed by centuries of art his<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>and</strong> theory. His<br />
pieces, which are always immacuately executed, often<br />
have a pop accessibility <strong>to</strong> them, but even the simplest<br />
works contain densely compressed layers of meaning.<br />
www.vaughnsadie.net<br />
61
MICHAEL MACGARRY is concerned with the residues of colonialism <strong>and</strong><br />
imperialism that continue <strong>to</strong> define artistic <strong>and</strong> social reality in Africa. His<br />
work deftly compares the construction of artistic forms <strong>and</strong> meaning in the<br />
colonising West <strong>to</strong> those of the colonised countries. MacGarry,<br />
who currently works in Johannesburg, won the 2010<br />
St<strong>and</strong>ard Bank Young Artist Award for Fine Art, one of the<br />
most prestigious accolades in the South African art world.<br />
www.alltheorynopractice.com<br />
62<br />
ANDRIES BOTHA is an internationally acclaimed<br />
sculp<strong>to</strong>r. While never ab<strong>and</strong>oning specificity, Botha<br />
often goes for the big subjects, conceptually, <strong>and</strong><br />
physically. This is particularly the case with his current<br />
body of work, which consists of an extended family<br />
of lifesize elephants. These remarkable pieces led <strong>to</strong><br />
Botha launching the Human Elephant<br />
Foundation, which aims <strong>to</strong> influence<br />
social change through the power<br />
of imagination <strong>and</strong> creativity.<br />
www.<strong>and</strong>riesbotha.net<br />
SIMMI DULLAY grew up in exile in Denmark <strong>and</strong> returned<br />
<strong>to</strong> South Africa at the beginning of the ’90s. That return<br />
was fraught with contradictions <strong>and</strong> Dullay’s art reflects<br />
the polycultural <strong>and</strong> often paradoxical str<strong>and</strong>s that constitute<br />
her identity on a global stage, both in terms of how she<br />
sees herself <strong>and</strong> how she is constructed<br />
by others. Working in a range of media,<br />
Dullay’s work is informed by her highly<br />
personalised blend of politics <strong>and</strong> theory.<br />
www.simmidullay.com
Art in the City’s Public Buildings<br />
Complementing the collection of the<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Art Gallery, the eThekwini<br />
Municipality has comissioned artworks<br />
for the Moses Mabhida Stadium <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Albert Luthuli International Convention<br />
Centre. In this way, visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> the city<br />
get an instant snapshot of the creative<br />
output of <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> South Africa.<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Art Gallery<br />
City Hall, 32 An<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Lembede Street<br />
+27 31 311 2264/9<br />
ArtSpace <strong>Durban</strong><br />
3 Millar Road<br />
off Umgeni Road<br />
+27 31 312 0793<br />
The KZNSA Gallery<br />
166 Bulwer Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 277 1705<br />
African Art Centre<br />
94 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 3804/5<br />
The Bat Centre<br />
Small Craft Harbour,<br />
off Margaret Mncadi<br />
Avenue<br />
+27 31 332 0451<br />
Artisan<br />
344 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 4364<br />
Fat Tuesday<br />
5 Bellevue Road<br />
Kloof<br />
+27 31 717 2785<br />
Gallery 415<br />
415 Umgeni Rd<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 31 309 6401<br />
Kizo Art Gallery<br />
Palm Boulevard<br />
Gateway, Umhlanga<br />
+27 31 566 4322<br />
Phansi Museum<br />
500 Esther Roberts<br />
Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 206 2889<br />
Tamasa Gallery<br />
36 Overport Drive<br />
Overport<br />
+27 31 207 1223<br />
The Collective<br />
48b Florida Road<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 31 303 4891<br />
Crouse Art Gallery<br />
254 Lilian Ngoyi Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 2315<br />
Elizabeth Gordon<br />
120 Florida Road<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 31 303 8133<br />
DUT Art Gallery<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> University of<br />
Technology, Steve<br />
Biko Campus<br />
+27 31 373 2207<br />
Galleries<br />
Imbizo Gallery<br />
Balli<strong>to</strong> Lifestyle Centre<br />
Balli<strong>to</strong><br />
+27 32 946 1937<br />
Alliance française<br />
22 Sut<strong>to</strong>n Cresent<br />
Morningside, <strong>Durban</strong><br />
+27 31 312 9582<br />
Stepping S<strong>to</strong>ne<br />
Studios/Art Room<br />
3 Chartwell Centre<br />
Chartwell Drive<br />
Umhlanga Rocks<br />
+27 31 561 6762<br />
also: 258 Florida<br />
Road, Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 3193<br />
also: Shop 12a<br />
Maytime Centre,<br />
Charles Way, Kloof<br />
+27 31 764 0222<br />
THE DURBAN ART GALLERY ’s collection ranges<br />
from his<strong>to</strong>rical paintings <strong>to</strong> anonymous beadwork<br />
<strong>to</strong> the works of internationally recognised artists<br />
such as Andrew Verster <strong>and</strong> Trevor Makhoba.<br />
Under the cura<strong>to</strong>rship of Jenny Stret<strong>to</strong>n, who has<br />
been Acting Direc<strong>to</strong>r for the last few years,<br />
exhibitions <strong>and</strong> acquisitions have reflected the<br />
rich multicultural life of South Africa, continuing<br />
the direction established by Carol Brown who left<br />
the gallery as direc<strong>to</strong>r in 2006. Mduduzi Xakaza<br />
was appointed as Direc<strong>to</strong>r of the Galllery in 2010<br />
<strong>and</strong> looks set <strong>to</strong> continue the gallery’s his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of engaging with eThekwini <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> residents.<br />
63
BOTH DURBAN AND KWAZULU-NATAL ARE REVERED<br />
by musicologists worldwide for the hot-bed of musical<br />
talent that resides here. Gardeners who service lush<br />
lawns <strong>and</strong> exotic flower-beds are seen strumming their<br />
guitars after work in a gently percussive fashion. On<br />
Saturday nights youths from all over the province gather<br />
outside the YMCA in Beatrice Street for the weekly<br />
isicathamiya competitions. <strong>People</strong> dance freely on the<br />
streets <strong>to</strong> ambient urban rhythms, <strong>and</strong> even a cappuccinomaking<br />
waiter was seen rasping his milk-frother in time<br />
<strong>to</strong> the techno music playing in the background.<br />
Whether it’s something in the water, or something in<br />
the air, <strong>Durban</strong> has a musical soil that is extremely rich,<br />
<strong>and</strong> which supplies a great deal of musical talent <strong>to</strong> the<br />
nation. Having contributed a variety of local musical<br />
forms <strong>to</strong> the national l<strong>and</strong>scape, <strong>Durban</strong> is a vitally<br />
important cog in the South African music industry despite<br />
the fact that most of the musical wealth, both literal <strong>and</strong><br />
metaphoric, ends up in Johannesburg.<br />
64<br />
MUSIC<br />
BUSI MHLONGO died early in 2010, robbing South Africa of one<br />
of <strong>its</strong> most talented <strong>and</strong> loved performers. Blessed with an<br />
extraordinary voice that sinks deep under the earth <strong>and</strong> then rises<br />
<strong>to</strong> the stars, Mhlongo was the first woman <strong>to</strong> appropriate mask<strong>and</strong>a<br />
music <strong>and</strong> remains a hero <strong>to</strong> many young South African musicians.<br />
Commercial successs eluded Busi all her life despite massive critical<br />
recognition both locally <strong>and</strong> overseas, where every concert was a<br />
sell-out show. She was always aware that she could be living<br />
the high-life in Paris or New York, but chose <strong>to</strong> live in<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> simply because she couldn’t bear <strong>to</strong> live anywhere else.<br />
Album: Babhemu, Urban Zulu<br />
SHIYANI NGCOBO is one of KZN’s most well known mask<strong>and</strong>a<br />
guitarists. Mask<strong>and</strong>a is a musical form indigenous <strong>to</strong> KZN<br />
which fuses traditional Nguni rhythms with the western<br />
guitar <strong>to</strong> create a haunting, almost trance-like sound. Like<br />
many mask<strong>and</strong>a guitarists, Ngcobo, who sadly died in 2011,<br />
sung along <strong>to</strong> his guitar – in a voice that was sometimes<br />
plaintive, sometimes strident, but always movingly beautiful.<br />
Album: Introducing Shiyani Ncgobo
THE SOUTH JERSEY POM-POMS hark back <strong>to</strong> a<br />
time before rock <strong>and</strong> roll broke the dam of popular<br />
music. Conceptually based in the thirties <strong>and</strong><br />
forties, the Pom-Poms exude a certain innocence<br />
that is musical, stylistic <strong>and</strong> emotional. The songs<br />
<strong>and</strong> influences are eclectic, but there is<br />
nonetheless a coherence that runs through their<br />
performances that is perhaps expressed best in<br />
the image of an enigmatic siren on a smoky stage.<br />
Album: South Jersey Pom-Poms<br />
RICHARD HASLOP is South Africa’s foremost music critic <strong>and</strong><br />
an accomplished blues guitarist. He lives in the <strong>Durban</strong> suburb<br />
of Hillary <strong>and</strong> has a day job as a lawyer, but spends every other<br />
waking minute listening <strong>to</strong> music. Previously one of South Africa’s<br />
most respected radio DJs – on his SAFM show Fru<strong>its</strong> <strong>to</strong> Roots –<br />
Haslop now writes regularly for Audio Video magazine <strong>and</strong> the<br />
Perfect Sound Forever webzine, as well as playing with blues b<strong>and</strong><br />
Formerly Slim. His continued influence – <strong>and</strong> the reverence given<br />
<strong>to</strong> a positive review from him despite having virtually no presence<br />
in the national media – is one of the triumphs of the digital age.<br />
READ: Audio Video, Perfect Sound Forever<br />
JOSEPH SHABALALA is one of eThekwini’s most famous musical exports<br />
as the frontman for LADYSMITH BLACK MAMBAZO, the isicathimiya<br />
group that he began as a young man. With a h<strong>and</strong>ful of Grammy’s <strong>to</strong><br />
their name, the group’s performances are sought after all over the world,<br />
which hasn’t affected the essential humility of Shabalala’s music.<br />
When the voices of Ladysmith come <strong>to</strong>gether, with Shabalala as their<br />
signature central instrument, you can hear the sound of heaven.<br />
Album: Inala, Shaka Zulu, Raise Your Spir<strong>its</strong> Higher<br />
65
THE ARROWS produce a remarkably well-crafted<br />
blend of power pop <strong>and</strong> jazz-tinged rock performed<br />
with vitality <strong>and</strong> drive. Featuring the extraordinary<br />
voice of the charismatic PAMELA DE MENEZE in<br />
t<strong>and</strong>em with CHRISTIE DESFONTAIN’s gripping<br />
rhythms, The Arrows are aiming for global success.<br />
And at this point it seems a likely outcome.<br />
Both members are Christians <strong>and</strong> they achieve<br />
the difficult feat of making music about<br />
their faith that doesn’t alienate non-believers.<br />
Album: Babhemu, Make Believe<br />
CHRIS NTULI <strong>and</strong> his b<strong>and</strong> THE DURBAN BLACK DRIFTERS carry<br />
the sound of KwaZulu-Natal’s isicathamiya around the province<br />
<strong>and</strong> around the world. With a sweet chorus of voices maintained<br />
under his watchful eye, these Black Drifters are respected stars<br />
of the local isicathamiya scene, even if they have yet <strong>to</strong> crack the<br />
mainstream success achieved by Ladysmith Black Mambazo.<br />
Album: Bafana Bafana<br />
66<br />
MADALA KUNENE is an extraordinary talent whose highly personalised<br />
take on the traditional Zulu mask<strong>and</strong>a guitar has earned him acclaim all over<br />
the world, although like many local musicians, he still struggles <strong>to</strong> make<br />
ends meet. When Kunene plays, time slows down <strong>and</strong> the noise of the world<br />
seems <strong>to</strong> fade away. His trance-like rhythms, accompanied by a voice that<br />
is at once both frail <strong>and</strong> strong, make him one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s greatest treasures.<br />
Album: Kon’ko Man, Madamax, Bafo Bafo
GUY BUTTERY uses unorthodox playing methods <strong>to</strong> bring forth<br />
sublime new sounds from his stringed instruments, transforming a single<br />
instrument in<strong>to</strong> an array of sounds that could well come from an entire<br />
b<strong>and</strong>. As well as the guitar, Buttery also plays the m<strong>and</strong>olin <strong>and</strong> sitar,<br />
<strong>and</strong> occasionally plays with other musicians. His unique style, combined<br />
with his songwriting skills, has earned him international critical acclaim.<br />
Album: When I Grow Up, Fox Hill Lane<br />
PHUZEKHEMISI has played a substantial role in<br />
bringing traditional Zulu music <strong>to</strong> an urban setting.<br />
Phuzekhemisi is the stage name of JOSEPH MNYANDU,<br />
<strong>and</strong> literally means ‘drink the medicine’. The<br />
charismatic performer is now a major commercial<br />
drawcard who has gained recognition elsewhere in<br />
Africa, as well as in Europe’s world music scene.<br />
Album: Amakhansela, Phans’ Imikhon<strong>to</strong><br />
CHRIS LETCHER is one of South Africa’s most critically lauded<br />
rock musicians. Beginning with legendary <strong>Durban</strong> b<strong>and</strong> Urban<br />
Creep, Letcher subsequently established a musical partnership<br />
with fellow singer-songwriter Matthew van der Want with<br />
whom he produced three as<strong>to</strong>unding albums. He presently<br />
heads a five-piece b<strong>and</strong> that goes by the name of LETCHER.<br />
Album: Frieze, Harmonium<br />
67
DOMINION This eight member Gospel outfit is the brainchild of<br />
South African gospel phenomenon, Joyous Celebration. Featuring<br />
Sibongiseni Mbhele, S<strong>and</strong>ile Cele, Xolani Mdlalose, Brenda Mtambo,<br />
Mahalia Buchanan, Mercy Mndlovu, Tebello Sukwene <strong>and</strong> Zodwa<br />
Mahlangu, all seasoned performers, their debut album I’ll Run <strong>to</strong><br />
Him has been well-received both locally <strong>and</strong> in the United States.<br />
Albums: I Will Run <strong>to</strong> You<br />
68<br />
BLACK COFFEE , aka <strong>Durban</strong>-born Nkosinathi Maphumulo,<br />
has been on the scene for over a decade but hit the big<br />
time with his interpretation of Hugh Masekela’s<br />
rambunctious jazz hit Stimela. Followed by a slew of<br />
international releases, including remixes of songs from<br />
the late Busi Mhlongo, Black Coffee is a glorious amalgam<br />
of digital beats <strong>and</strong> traditional South African music.<br />
Albums: Black Coffee<br />
BIG NUZ take their name from the license plate (NUZ) of<br />
Umlazi, the <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>to</strong>wnship from where M<strong>and</strong>la Maphumulo<br />
(aka Mampintsha), Mzingisi Mkhwanazi (aka Danger) <strong>and</strong><br />
Sibusiso Khomo (aka Mashesha) became one of the country’s<br />
most dramatic musical success s<strong>to</strong>ries. Dominating the charts<br />
<strong>and</strong> music award ceremonies, their widespread success<br />
culminated in a number of wins at the 2010 Sama Awards.<br />
Albums: Zozo, 2nd Round Knockout, Undisputed
DJ TIRA , aka Mthokosisi Khathi, is one of South Africa’s most<br />
popular DJs. Having started his career in his home <strong>to</strong>wn of <strong>Durban</strong>,<br />
he has a strong following both nationally <strong>and</strong> internationally <strong>and</strong><br />
owns his own record label Afrocentric. Describing the music he<br />
plays as “up tempo with a heavy base line, chanting vocals <strong>and</strong> a<br />
tribal beat”, Tira has been credited as one of the crea<strong>to</strong>rs of the<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Sound which has taken the country’s dance floors by s<strong>to</strong>rm.<br />
Hear him: on the compilation <strong>Durban</strong>’s Finest Vol. 2<br />
NELI SHABALALA was the frontwoman for the female<br />
isicathamiya group WOMEN OF MAMBAZO before her tragic<br />
death. The wife of Joseph Shabalala, the driving force behind<br />
Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Neli’s voice combined with<br />
those of the group’s other members <strong>to</strong> form an angelic<br />
choir that explored the issues facing women in the province.<br />
Albums: Mamizolo<br />
MARTIN MCHALE was the co-owner of 330, South Africa’s<br />
most legendary nightclub. The club closed <strong>its</strong> doors several years<br />
ago but, after holding parties in other spaces for a while, the<br />
team has regrouped at the highly successful ORIGIN nightclub<br />
where McHale continues his position as resident DJ. He is in<br />
inter-national dem<strong>and</strong> as a DJ <strong>and</strong> has also formed the b<strong>and</strong> RISE<br />
with local chanteuse Kerry Wood <strong>and</strong> guitarist Colin Peddie.<br />
Albums: Present with Rise<br />
69
FRUIT AND VEG are a ska-influenced punk-rock<br />
b<strong>and</strong> fronted by the charismatic PURITY MKHIZE,<br />
who sings <strong>and</strong> roars her way through anthemic<br />
songs of self-assertion in a world of bl<strong>and</strong><br />
consumerism. They are a one- of-a-kind b<strong>and</strong>, with<br />
a roster of solid songs, a derisive attitide <strong>to</strong>wards<br />
conventions, a blistering stage presence <strong>and</strong> a fully<br />
expressed commitment <strong>to</strong> living life <strong>to</strong> the full.<br />
Album: Still in production. Look out for it.<br />
NIBS VAN DER SPUY was for many years a staple on the <strong>Durban</strong><br />
scene with the much loved instrumental b<strong>and</strong> L<strong>and</strong>scape Prayers.<br />
In the wake of the Prayers’ breakup, Nibs branched out on his own<br />
with a selection of emotionally tender <strong>and</strong> musically immaculate<br />
solo albums, as well as collaborations with Barry van Zyl <strong>and</strong> the<br />
late Gi<strong>to</strong> Baloi on the Hadeda project. Van Der Spuy’s output provides<br />
sincere spiritual sweetness for those who prefer honey <strong>to</strong> saccharine.<br />
Albums: A House Across the River, Beautiful Feet<br />
70<br />
THE FATAARS are one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most gifted musical families. STEVE<br />
<strong>and</strong> RICKY FATAAR were members of THE FLAMES, a South African b<strong>and</strong><br />
which made it in<strong>to</strong> the international charts in the late ’60s, leading <strong>to</strong><br />
collaborations with groups such as the Beach Boys <strong>and</strong> the Rolling<br />
S<strong>to</strong>nes. Steve continues <strong>to</strong> perform in <strong>Durban</strong>, along with his daughter,<br />
the golden-voiced TARA <strong>and</strong> his beatboxing son DAIN, under the name<br />
AVATAR, while RICKY continues <strong>to</strong> perform around the world.<br />
Albums: Soul Fire!!, Burning Soul!
Jazzy Rainbow<br />
93 Smiso Nkwanyana Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 8398<br />
Rivets<br />
Hil<strong>to</strong>n Hotel<br />
12 Walnut Road<br />
+27 31 336 8142<br />
Rainbow Jazz Club<br />
23 Stanfield Lane<br />
Pine<strong>to</strong>wn<br />
+27 31 702 9161<br />
The Willowvale Hotel<br />
406 Umbilo Road<br />
Umbilo<br />
+27 31 205 1291<br />
Zulu Jazz Lounge<br />
Playhouse Complex<br />
231 An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede Street<br />
+27 31 304 2373<br />
Splashy Fen<br />
PO Box 4078<br />
The Square 4021<br />
+27 31 563 0824<br />
Centre for Jazz<br />
University of KZN<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 260 3385<br />
The Bat Deck<br />
Maritime Place<br />
Small Craft Harbour<br />
+27 31 332 0451<br />
Cool Runnings<br />
49 Milne Street<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> City<br />
+27 31 368 5604<br />
Unit 11<br />
190 Stamford Hill Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 82 774 6528<br />
Zacks Windemere<br />
Windemere Centre<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 0755<br />
Zacks Wilson’s Wharf<br />
Boatman’s Road<br />
Maydon Wharf<br />
+27 31 305 1677<br />
Music Venues<br />
Czar<br />
178 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 8001<br />
KZN Philharmonic Orchestra<br />
29 Acutt Street<br />
<strong>Durban</strong><br />
+27 31 369 9477<br />
Jackie Horner Pub<br />
Cnr Clark & Esther Roberts<br />
Road, Glenwood<br />
+27 31 202 9192<br />
The Wins<strong>to</strong>n Pub<br />
9 Clark Road<br />
Umbilo<br />
+27 76 976 1002<br />
Amsterdam<br />
142 Helen Joseph Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 811 5449<br />
Burn Nightclub<br />
16 Walls Avenue<br />
Greyville<br />
+27 82 325 9746<br />
The Rainbow in Pine<strong>to</strong>wn is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s most important music venues.<br />
Opened by Ben Pre<strong>to</strong>rius in 1981, the venue was one of the very few places<br />
where people of different races could enjoy music <strong>to</strong>gether during apartheid.<br />
As such, it became an important space in which the collective culture of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> KZN could be appreciated by all. Three decades after first<br />
opening, it remains the most significant music venue in eThekwini <strong>to</strong>day.<br />
Another important musical space is The Bat Centre, in <strong>Durban</strong>’s small craft<br />
harbour, which has hosted many of South Africa’s leading musicians, <strong>and</strong> was<br />
an important engine of creativity in <strong>Durban</strong> in the 1990s. After a period of<br />
dormancy, the venue has recently been reignited by <strong>Durban</strong> musician Philani<br />
Ngidi, <strong>and</strong> is once again providing a strong platform for the best of local music.<br />
71
ALL OVER THE WORLD, TO BE A DANCER<br />
is <strong>to</strong> submit <strong>to</strong> a life of sacrifice. Dancers never<br />
do it for the money, <strong>and</strong> nowhere is this more<br />
true than in <strong>Durban</strong>, where many of our dancers<br />
live close <strong>to</strong> poverty in the shackl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> RDP<br />
settlements surrounding <strong>Durban</strong>. Yet despite –<br />
<strong>and</strong> perhaps because of – the challenges<br />
dancers face, local dance companies regularly<br />
produce world-class work that, on occasion,<br />
challenges the very definition of dance.<br />
Often working on the cutting edge of<br />
contemporary practice, <strong>Durban</strong> dancers <strong>and</strong><br />
choreographers are telling their own s<strong>to</strong>ries in<br />
a language that is constantly being rewritten<br />
<strong>and</strong> which is born from the collision between<br />
modernity <strong>and</strong> traditional western, african<br />
<strong>and</strong> eastern forms. It is a language which<br />
increasingly finds <strong>its</strong>elf traversing the world,<br />
as <strong>Durban</strong>’s dancers find themselves on international<br />
stages, from New York <strong>to</strong> Dakar.<br />
72<br />
DANCE<br />
NTSIKELELO ‘BOYZIE’ CEKWANA possesses a remarkable<br />
ability <strong>to</strong> communicate through his body, as well as a radical<br />
intelligence <strong>and</strong> rarified aesthetic, all of which have made him<br />
a dancer <strong>and</strong> choreographer of international acclaim. Cekwana<br />
has danced all over the world <strong>and</strong> heads the aptly named<br />
FLOATING OUTFIT PROJECT. Intended <strong>to</strong> be rootless <strong>and</strong><br />
unaffiliated, the company includes Cekwana <strong>and</strong> his<br />
partner www.siwelasonke.co.za<br />
Désiré Davids as it’s only permanent members.<br />
SIWELA SONKE DANCE THEATRE is headed by creative dynamo JAY<br />
PATHER <strong>and</strong> populated with an extraordinary group of dancers including<br />
NTOMBI GASA <strong>and</strong> NELISWE RUSHUALANG. Siwela’s dancers are never<br />
subservient <strong>to</strong> their roles, embodying the very pulse of South African life<br />
in a dance language that is always shifting in <strong>its</strong> search for emotional<br />
truth in a sea of uncertainty. Often performing in urban settings rather<br />
than on a stage, the company performs in cities all around the world.<br />
www.siwelasonke.co.za
FLATFOOT DANCE COMPANY , named for the challenge it holds up<br />
<strong>to</strong> Western ideals of dance, is a contemporary company offering work<br />
that engages – in poignant <strong>and</strong> beautiful ways – with the emotional<br />
<strong>and</strong> political context in which we live. With dance lecturer LLIANE<br />
LOOTS as the driving force, <strong>and</strong> a troupe of talented <strong>and</strong> idiosyncratic<br />
dancers, Flatfoot produces socially aware <strong>and</strong> globally accessible<br />
dance theatre with <strong>its</strong> roots planted firmly in <strong>Durban</strong>’s fertile soil.<br />
JOMBA! DANCE FESTIVAL , hosted by the Centre for<br />
Creative Arts <strong>and</strong> headed by Lliane Loots is a ten-day<br />
international contemporary dance festival <strong>and</strong><br />
conference that features the cream of South African<br />
dance companies, as well as respected dancers <strong>and</strong><br />
choreographers from around the world with whom<br />
local dancers often collaborate. The festival also hosts<br />
dance workshops <strong>and</strong> technical collaborations.<br />
www.ukzn.ac.za/cca<br />
NATESHWAR DANCE ACADEMY has 12 branches around<br />
KwaZulu-Natal. Every year, under the guidance of SMEETHA<br />
SINGH, the academy teaches the ancient art of Indian dance<br />
<strong>to</strong> hundreds of students who come <strong>to</strong>gether in spectacular<br />
annual productions. Although a bastion of classical Indian<br />
dance, the academy’s dancers often contribute <strong>to</strong> contemporary<br />
productions from other companies, in the spirit of collaboration<br />
www.siwelasonke.co.za<br />
<strong>and</strong> diversity that defines <strong>Durban</strong>’s dance scene.<br />
73
DESIRE DAVIDS is one of several <strong>Durban</strong> dancers who are taking South<br />
African dance <strong>to</strong> the world. She spent much of 2009 in France rehearsing<br />
for her performance in Vincent Mantsoe’s celebrated work San which<br />
had <strong>its</strong> South African debut in Grahams<strong>to</strong>wn. She will continue her<br />
internationalist streak with <strong>to</strong>urs of Europe. Well known <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong><br />
audiences from her time spent at the Playhouse Dance company, Davids<br />
also performs with Boyzie Cekwana in his Floating Outfit Project.<br />
74<br />
MLU ZONDI won the 2010 St<strong>and</strong>ard Bank Young<br />
Artist of the Year Award for his idiosyncratic blend<br />
of dance <strong>and</strong> fine-art-as-performance. Like Siwela<br />
Sonke, Zondi’s work is as likely <strong>to</strong> appear in a gallery<br />
or public space as on a stage. Zondi came <strong>to</strong><br />
work in the context of visual art because he felt<br />
that his br<strong>and</strong> of performance was not accepted in<br />
the contemporary dance world. The consequences<br />
of that decision continue <strong>to</strong> serve him well.<br />
MUSA HLATSHWAYO is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s fastest rising dance<br />
stars. Remarkably charismatic, this gifted dancer <strong>and</strong><br />
choreographer is doing much <strong>to</strong> extend the language of<br />
contemporary dance. Currently working as a freelance artist<br />
as well as with his company MHAYISE PRODUCTIONS,<br />
Hla<strong>to</strong>swayo has received much critical recognition <strong>and</strong> a<br />
number of awards, including the 2008/9 Dancelink award for<br />
best choreographer. As well as <strong>to</strong>uring his work around the<br />
world, Hlatshwayo devotes much of his time <strong>to</strong> teaching,<br />
particularly at the development project Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor Vibe.
Dancelink started with the aim of<br />
raising the profile of dance in the<br />
province. Several years later, Dancelink<br />
is an established part of South<br />
Africa’s dance network. As well as<br />
engaging in community work, the<br />
organisation also produces several<br />
performance projects annually,<br />
including the large-scale youth dance<br />
performance project Dance for Youth.<br />
Outreach Programmes form an<br />
integral element of the dance scene<br />
in <strong>Durban</strong>. While these programmes<br />
help dance companies <strong>to</strong> give back<br />
<strong>to</strong> the communities that form the<br />
mostly invisible backbones of our<br />
society, they are also a rich source<br />
of future dance talent. Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor<br />
Vibe is a sterling example of such<br />
programme. Founded by the<br />
seminal dance company Fantastic<br />
Flying Fish <strong>and</strong> men<strong>to</strong>red by some<br />
leading local talents, Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor<br />
Vibe fosters the development of<br />
the self <strong>and</strong> communities while<br />
stressing the vital importance of<br />
education in uplifting the lives of<br />
<strong>its</strong> young <strong>and</strong> talented dancers.<br />
DAVID GOULDIE is a stalwart of the <strong>Durban</strong> dance<br />
scene. Previously a member of the Playhouse Ballet<br />
Company <strong>and</strong> a founding member of the now sadly<br />
defunct Fantastic Flying Fish Dance Company, Gouldie<br />
now has his own company called Urban Edge Productions<br />
which creates corporate theatre, launches <strong>and</strong> br<strong>and</strong><br />
activations. He is still strongly involved with choreography<br />
<strong>and</strong> has recently lent his skills <strong>to</strong> productions<br />
such as The Nutcracker <strong>and</strong> Chess, as well as helping <strong>to</strong><br />
organise art-based events such as Naked <strong>and</strong> Red Eye.<br />
75
UNDER THE OLD APARTHEID DISPENSATION,<br />
theatre attendance was racially delineated <strong>and</strong><br />
black theatre thoroughly marginalised. At the same<br />
time theatre, both in white cities <strong>and</strong> black<br />
<strong>to</strong>wnships, was a major site of political protest <strong>and</strong><br />
activism, producing a rich canon of protest theatre<br />
whose artistic accomplishments still resound.<br />
This is the twin legacy of theatre in <strong>Durban</strong>, <strong>and</strong><br />
the challenge faced by <strong>Durban</strong>’s theatre community<br />
in the 21st century is <strong>to</strong> write <strong>and</strong> produce work<br />
that engages with our past <strong>and</strong> our present, <strong>and</strong><br />
is at the same time relevant <strong>to</strong> the broad spectrum<br />
of the people who live in <strong>and</strong> around the city.<br />
It is a challenge that is still in the process of<br />
being confronted by <strong>Durban</strong>ites, as a new<br />
generation of young ac<strong>to</strong>rs, direc<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>and</strong> theatre<br />
lovers emerges. And while theatre in <strong>Durban</strong> has<br />
still <strong>to</strong> transcend the divisions created by apartheid,<br />
the possibilities for transcendent work remain,<br />
nurtured by the continuing contradictions of South<br />
African society.<br />
76<br />
THEATRE<br />
CHANTAL SNYMAN is a theatre worker who interrogates<br />
<strong>and</strong> celebrates our local reality. A writer, direc<strong>to</strong>r, s<strong>to</strong>ryteller,<br />
ac<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong> teacher, Snyman has added two key works Snapshots<br />
(1999) <strong>and</strong> Frank (2009) <strong>to</strong> the local canon, both of which she<br />
wrote <strong>and</strong> directed. She has appeared on stage in a wide<br />
range of performances <strong>and</strong> in recent years has started working<br />
with both puppets <strong>and</strong> professional soccer players in order<br />
<strong>to</strong> provide accessible education around HIV <strong>and</strong> Aids.<br />
EDMUND MHLONGO is a shining example of the fact that one person<br />
can make a difference. An award-winning direc<strong>to</strong>r, Mhlongo is the driving<br />
force behind the EKHAYA MULTI-ARTS CENTRE in KwaMashu, which<br />
he founded <strong>and</strong> continues <strong>to</strong> head. In a <strong>to</strong>wnship rich with performing<br />
talent but low on performance spaces, Mhlongo provides much needed<br />
exposure for young dancers, musicians, ac<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>and</strong> production<br />
staff <strong>and</strong> the chance for local audieinces <strong>to</strong> celebrate their culture.<br />
SEEN HERE: Madame President
MBONGENI NGEMA , progeni<strong>to</strong>r of the legendary Sarafina<br />
productions, singer, direc<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong> general creative talent, is one of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s most prolific artists. A champion of local narrative, he has<br />
achieved mainstream success with his epic stage productions as well<br />
as with his recorded output, musicals, television shows <strong>and</strong> films.<br />
He is also a talented <strong>and</strong> hugely successful songwriter, his oeuvre<br />
ranging from jazz <strong>to</strong> gospel <strong>to</strong> R&B, from marabi <strong>to</strong> mbaqanga.<br />
SEEN HERE: Lion of the East<br />
NEIL COPPEN is one of South Africa’s most gifted<br />
theatre talents <strong>and</strong> a frequent contribu<strong>to</strong>r <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
broader art scene. Acclaimed for his acting skills from<br />
a young age, Coppen has subsequently established a<br />
solid career for himself as a writer, playwright <strong>and</strong><br />
direc<strong>to</strong>r, with his plays The Tin Bucket <strong>and</strong> Tree Boy<br />
garnering much critical acclaim around the country<br />
<strong>and</strong> beyond. Coppen was recently awarded the 2011<br />
St<strong>and</strong>ard Bank Young Artist of the Year Award for Theatre.<br />
SEEN HERE: The Tin Bucket<br />
KICKSTART , run by GREG KING <strong>and</strong> STEVEN STEAD, is an<br />
independent professional theatre company which regularly<br />
stages world-class productions in <strong>Durban</strong>. The company’s<br />
primary objective is <strong>to</strong> produce the best of internationally<br />
recognised drama. However, just as important is the creation<br />
of <strong>to</strong>p-quality children’s theatre, staged with the intention of<br />
fostering a love of the theatre among young people.<br />
SEEN HERE: The Wizard of Oz<br />
77
JERRY POOE is a well-known force in <strong>Durban</strong> theatre circles as<br />
a writer, direc<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong> playwright. As CEO of his company EAGER<br />
ARTISTS, Pooe’s work provides a bridge between the past <strong>and</strong><br />
the present, in the process attempting <strong>to</strong> forge a new African<br />
theatre. Pooe is also involved in artistic projects in rural<br />
communities <strong>and</strong> has facilitated various projects, including Aids<br />
Awareness education <strong>and</strong> training youths in theatre skills.<br />
SEEN HERE: Sophia<strong>to</strong>wn<br />
78<br />
GAIL SNYMAN began her theatrical career in 1994, after<br />
having raised her family, <strong>and</strong> has subsequently become a<br />
key figure in <strong>Durban</strong>’s theatre scene. Her debut work, the<br />
au<strong>to</strong>biographical one-woman show, Tears in My Navy Blue<br />
Eyes, received critical acclaim <strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>ured internationally,<br />
while Sasol Fever is centred around the dislocated family<br />
lives of refinery workers. More recently she has written an<br />
anti-litter play for children which will be animated by<br />
the Centre for Fine Art, Animation <strong>and</strong> Design.<br />
ILLA THOMPSON is an ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us figure on the <strong>Durban</strong><br />
creative scene, bringing support <strong>to</strong> artists <strong>and</strong> performers<br />
above <strong>and</strong> beyond the call of duty. Although her main area<br />
of interest is theatre, Thompson is seen at virtually every ar<strong>to</strong>riented<br />
event <strong>and</strong> she frequently falls in<strong>to</strong> the role of arts<br />
activist. She is also involved with the Performing Arts Network<br />
of South Africa. Together with her company PUBLICITY<br />
MATTERS, Thompson helps <strong>to</strong> keep theatre alive in <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
SEEN HERE: Frontlines
CLAIRE MORTIMER is one of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s most accomplished ac<strong>to</strong>rs,<br />
as well as a talented direc<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong><br />
playwright. Mortimer is superb in<br />
difficult roles such as the cancerstricken<br />
Vivian in Wit, but also revels<br />
in lighter work in which she shows<br />
off her wickedly comedic streak.<br />
SEEN HERE IN: Wit<br />
Elisabeth Sneddon<br />
Theatre<br />
University of KZN<br />
238 Mazisi Kunene<br />
Road<br />
+27 31 260 2296<br />
Barnyard Theatre<br />
Gateway Theatre of<br />
Shopping<br />
Umhlanga<br />
+27 31 566 3045<br />
Catalina Theatre<br />
18 Boatman’s Road<br />
Maydon Wharf<br />
+27 31 305 6889<br />
Stable Theatre<br />
Cnr Joseph Nduli<br />
Street & Alice Street<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 309 2513<br />
THEMI VENTURAS There are few people more committed<br />
<strong>and</strong> active in the theatre community than Venturas. An<br />
accomplished direc<strong>to</strong>r who has been at the helm of many<br />
large-scale productions over the years, Venturas is also the<br />
man behind the CATALINA THEATRE on Wilson’s Wharf. The<br />
Catalina provides an intimate theatre experience in an<br />
accessible space, <strong>and</strong> has entertained theatre goers with such<br />
varied fare as The Man of La Mancha <strong>and</strong> Have You Seen Z<strong>and</strong>ile?<br />
SEEN HERE: Man of La Mancha<br />
Square Space<br />
Theatre<br />
University of KZN<br />
238 Mazisi Kunene<br />
Road<br />
+27 31 260 3133<br />
Ekhaya Multi Arts<br />
Centre<br />
B25 Giya Rd<br />
Kwa-Mashu<br />
+27 31 504 6970<br />
Heritage Theatre<br />
9 Old Main Road<br />
Hillcrest<br />
+27 31 765 4197<br />
Open-Air Theatre<br />
Botanic Gardens<br />
70 St Thomas Road<br />
Musgrave<br />
+27 31 309 1170<br />
Rhumbelow Theatre<br />
Cunningham Road<br />
(off Bartle Road)<br />
Umbilo<br />
+27 31 205 7602<br />
+27 82 499 8636<br />
Open Air Theatre<br />
University of KZN<br />
238 Mazisi Kunene<br />
Road<br />
+27 31 260 3133<br />
The Playhouse<br />
231 An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede<br />
Street, City Centre<br />
+27 31 369 9555<br />
SuperNova Theatre<br />
Suncoast Casino<br />
Suncoast Boulevard<br />
Marine Parade<br />
+27 31 328 3333<br />
Theatres<br />
Courtyard Theatre<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> University of<br />
Technology<br />
R<strong>its</strong>on Campus<br />
Steve Biko Road<br />
+27 31 373 2194<br />
Asoka Theatre<br />
University of KZN<br />
Westville Campus<br />
Essex Terrace<br />
+27 31 204 4111<br />
iZulu Theatre<br />
Sibaya Casino<br />
Umhlanga Rocks<br />
Tel: +27 31 580 5000<br />
Seabrooke Theatre<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> High School<br />
St Thomas Road<br />
Musgrave<br />
+27 31 201 1638<br />
79
ONLY IN THE LAST FEW YEARS HAS SOUTH<br />
Africa started <strong>to</strong> produce a substantial number of<br />
feature films. Now, under the banner of freedom,<br />
<strong>and</strong> with so many s<strong>to</strong>ries <strong>to</strong> tell, local cinema is<br />
quickly growing up <strong>and</strong> beginning <strong>to</strong> make worldclass<br />
contributions <strong>to</strong> global cinema, such as Darryl<br />
Roodt’s Yesterday. Filmed in KwaZulu-Natal it was<br />
the world’s first Zulu language feature film <strong>and</strong><br />
garnered an Oscar nomination, preceding the win<br />
by the more Hollywood-oriented Tsotsi. With <strong>its</strong><br />
affordable labour <strong>and</strong> infrastructure, an incredibly<br />
diverse variety of locations, <strong>and</strong> as<strong>to</strong>undingly good<br />
weather, <strong>Durban</strong> is becoming increasingly popular<br />
with international direc<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>and</strong> producers, with<br />
plans for film studios currently underway.<br />
At the same time the local film culture is getting<br />
stronger, with an increasing number of productions<br />
coming out of <strong>Durban</strong>, aided in no small part by<br />
the work of the <strong>Durban</strong> International Film Festival<br />
<strong>and</strong> the <strong>Durban</strong> Film Office.<br />
80<br />
FILM<br />
JUNAID AHMED of FINELINE PRODUCTIONS specialises in<br />
documentary work that explores marginalised communities.<br />
Fineline’s films are frequently screened on national television <strong>and</strong><br />
syndicated for broadcast around the world. After the awardwinning<br />
Lucky, which looks at the relationship between an Aids<br />
orphan <strong>and</strong> a racist Indian woman, comes STOCKHOLM,<br />
ZULULAND, a cross-cutural romantic comedy with a wicked twist.<br />
Watch: Lucky, Trancing in Dreamtime, S<strong>to</strong>ckholm Zulul<strong>and</strong><br />
Video Mogul is a DVD rental s<strong>to</strong>re in Musgrave that has had a significiant impact on<br />
local film culture. By introducing an extensive selection of world cinema <strong>and</strong> older <strong>and</strong><br />
more obscure films, the s<strong>to</strong>re has helped <strong>to</strong> grow a culture of cinema in eThekwini, in<br />
the process encouraging a new young breed of <strong>Durban</strong> filmmakers. +27 31 202 1520.<br />
The <strong>Durban</strong> Filmmart A joint programme of the <strong>Durban</strong> International Film Festival<br />
<strong>and</strong> the <strong>Durban</strong> Film Office, the <strong>Durban</strong> FilmMart is an annual co-production market<br />
which links filmmakers from Africa with funders <strong>and</strong> producers. The FilmMart<br />
includes a Finance Forum, which provides an opportunity for selected African<br />
filmmakers <strong>to</strong> pitch their projects <strong>to</strong> potential inves<strong>to</strong>rs on a one-<strong>to</strong>-one basis, <strong>and</strong><br />
a four-day specialised workshop programme for producers focusing on pitching<br />
<strong>and</strong> packaging films. The DFM provides an opportunity for international networking<br />
<strong>and</strong> making the case for the support <strong>and</strong> development of African film.
MASOOD BOOMGARD is a talented local writer <strong>and</strong> filmmaker. With<br />
a regular column in the Sunday Tribune <strong>and</strong> a popular blog, his following<br />
will no doubt swell with the release of ATTACK OF THE INDIAN WEREWOLF,<br />
a cheerfully irreverant <strong>Durban</strong> flavoured spoof on the werewolf genre. The<br />
film features local DJ <strong>and</strong> comedian Neville Pillay as a timid,<br />
hardworking s<strong>to</strong>re clerk who has been overtaken by a werewolf demon,<br />
<strong>and</strong> includes a cameo from eThekwini’s Municipality’s Speaker Logie Naidoo.<br />
Watch: Attack of the Indian Werewolf<br />
THE DURBAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL is South<br />
Africa’s only international film festival. Started by city<br />
councillor Ros Sarkin in 1979, the festival is now run by<br />
the University of KZN’s Centre for Creative Arts. Under<br />
the direc<strong>to</strong>rship of NASHEN MOODLEY, the DIFF has<br />
exp<strong>and</strong>ed beyond the university, taking <strong>its</strong> exciting<br />
selection of world cinema <strong>to</strong> theatres all over the city.<br />
www.cca.ukzn.ac.za/diff<br />
CLAIRE ANGELIQUE BEZUIDENHOUT is not short of<br />
ambition. Armed with the script for her film MY LITTLE BLACK<br />
HEART she approached Danish superdirec<strong>to</strong>r Lars von Triers<br />
<strong>and</strong> his production company Zentropa Films. Von Triers was<br />
sufficiently impressed <strong>to</strong> take on the project <strong>and</strong> provide his own<br />
cinema<strong>to</strong>grapher. The film subsequently won Bezuidenhout the<br />
2010 St<strong>and</strong>ard Bank Young Artist of the Year Award For Film.<br />
Watch: My Little Black Heart<br />
81
ANANT SINGH , with his company VIDEOVISION, is a key player in the<br />
South African film industry. Both a production house <strong>and</strong> an international<br />
distribution company, Videovision is responsible for the block-busting<br />
explo<strong>its</strong> of Leon Schuster’s MR BONES, as well as for seminal South African<br />
films such as The Stick <strong>and</strong> Sarafina. The company has produced more than<br />
100 films, including the Oscar-nominated Yesterday, the Zulu-language<br />
feature film which gives a face <strong>to</strong> the Aids p<strong>and</strong>emic in South Africa.<br />
Watch: The Stick, Yesterday, Faith’s Corner, Mr Bones<br />
82<br />
THE DURBAN FILM OFFICE is the official advocate for<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s film industry. A special-purpose vehicle of the<br />
Municipality, the DFO combines film related activities in<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> under an au<strong>to</strong>nomous organisation which aims<br />
<strong>to</strong> position <strong>Durban</strong> as a globally competitive film city. The<br />
DFO is a facilitating partner in the DURBAN FILMMART.<br />
WATCH: Izulu Lami, Racing Stripes<br />
NASHEN MOODLEY is <strong>Durban</strong>’s foremost film critic, as well<br />
as the manager of the <strong>Durban</strong> International Film Festival. A writer<br />
of great depth <strong>and</strong> insight, Moodley’s reviews appear in the Sunday<br />
Tribune’s SM Mag. It is his job as direc<strong>to</strong>r of the festival, however,<br />
that takes up the bulk of his time. As well as an unflinching<br />
dedication <strong>to</strong> film, the position also requires extraordinary<br />
diplomatic abilities, which Moodley puts <strong>to</strong> good use as direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />
of the Africa-Asia leg of the Dubai International Film Festival.<br />
Watch: At the <strong>Durban</strong> International Film Festival
The Grey Street Cinemas are<br />
significant in the cultural his<strong>to</strong>ry of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> because they were one of the<br />
very few places in apartheid South<br />
Africa where black people could<br />
access cinema. In the early days of<br />
silent movies, two cinemas – the<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>ria <strong>and</strong> the African Theatre<br />
Company – operated in the Grey Street<br />
area. They were soon joined by the<br />
Indian-owned cinema nicknamed<br />
Rawat’s Bio, <strong>and</strong> in 1940 the Moosa<br />
family opened the Avalon Cinema.<br />
The Avalon was the first venue <strong>to</strong><br />
host the <strong>Durban</strong> International Film<br />
Festival in 1979. More than three<br />
decades later, the Avalon group now<br />
has <strong>its</strong> flagship theatres at Suncoast<br />
Casino, <strong>and</strong> once more plays host <strong>to</strong><br />
the Film Festival as the premiere<br />
venue for the annual event. Until<br />
recently, a single cinema remained<br />
in the Indian Quarter. The Shiraz,<br />
which opened <strong>its</strong> doors in 1968, <strong>and</strong><br />
moved <strong>to</strong> <strong>its</strong> final location in the<br />
1980s,closed in 2010, <strong>and</strong> with it,<br />
the last cinema in eThekwini that<br />
was not located in a shopping mall.<br />
MADODA NCAYIYANA <strong>and</strong> JULIE FREDERICKSE<br />
of VULEKA PRODUCTIONS are the direc<strong>to</strong>r <strong>and</strong><br />
screenwriter respectively behind the award-winning<br />
film Izulu Lami which tells the s<strong>to</strong>ry of Thembi, a<br />
young rural girl who heads for the city in the wake<br />
of her mother’s death. Sobahle Mkhabase, the young<br />
actress who plays Thembi, will also feature in Vuleka’s<br />
next production, a comedy drama called Mobile Muti.<br />
WATCH: The Sky in Her Eyes, Izulu Lami<br />
Geoff Theys<br />
65 Rockdale Avenue<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 0339<br />
Patrick MgGhee<br />
35 Intersite Avenue<br />
Springfield Park<br />
+27 31 263 0182<br />
Reeltime<br />
15a Burling<strong>to</strong>n Drive<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 0353<br />
Rhubarb Productions<br />
7 Sinembe Crescent<br />
La Lucia Ridge<br />
+27 31 566 5749<br />
SB Productions<br />
Augusta Country Estate<br />
Hillcrest<br />
+27 31 764 3020<br />
Production Companies<br />
Videovision<br />
134 Stephen Dlamini<br />
Road, Berea<br />
+27 31 204 6000<br />
Vuleka Productions<br />
Mazisi Kunene Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 261 9650<br />
Forecast Casting<br />
33 Overport Drive<br />
Overport<br />
+27 31 209 9617<br />
DT Video<br />
5 Nunhead Road<br />
Manor Gardens<br />
+27 31 261 6961<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Motion Pictures<br />
5 Walnut Road<br />
<strong>Durban</strong><br />
+27 31 307 1988<br />
Fine Line Productions<br />
PO Box 30210<br />
Mayville<br />
+27 31 261 1154<br />
Tekweni TV<br />
1 Glenroy Road<br />
Manor Gardens<br />
+27 31 261 1034<br />
Collective Film & Video<br />
236 Lambert Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 9727<br />
BLM Productions<br />
241 Florida Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 83 232 1758<br />
Stargate<br />
42 Queen Elizabeth Drive<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 6230<br />
Cane Productions<br />
120 Marianhill Road<br />
Ashley<br />
+27 31 700 4434<br />
Go-Boy<br />
13 Saint Hillier Road<br />
Hillcrest<br />
+27 31 767 2700<br />
Halo Media<br />
12 Knoll Road<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 2309<br />
DIFF<br />
Centre for Creative Arts<br />
University of KZN<br />
+27 31 260 2506<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Film Office<br />
11th Flr, Rennies House<br />
41 Vic<strong>to</strong>ria Embankment<br />
+27 31 266 2309<br />
83
DURBAN’S MUSEUMS ARE A VITAL LINK TO THE PAST,<br />
both that of the city <strong>and</strong> of South Africa <strong>its</strong>elf, <strong>and</strong> are a<br />
useful <strong>to</strong>ol for visi<strong>to</strong>rs wanting <strong>to</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> our his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
For it is in eThekwini that the ‘<strong>Durban</strong> System’ of racial<br />
segregation was invented, <strong>and</strong> while it is something that<br />
many would rather forget, the vignettes of a life dominated<br />
by the Native Affairs Department, as chronicled in the Kwa<br />
Muhle Museum, are an important part of the city’s his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
Meanwhile, at the Natural Science Museum, we can<br />
glimpse the world of prehis<strong>to</strong>ry <strong>and</strong> explore a series of<br />
gorgeous dioramas detailing the region’s zoological diversity,<br />
<strong>and</strong> in <strong>Durban</strong>’s Old Court House Museum we get a sense<br />
of the 19th century colonialism which has left a large<br />
footprint on the physical structure <strong>and</strong> collective culture of<br />
our city. In helping us <strong>to</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> our past we can move<br />
in<strong>to</strong> the future with clarity <strong>and</strong> hope, engendered by the<br />
fact that our his<strong>to</strong>ry has, in the long term, been a consistent<br />
but gradual move <strong>to</strong>wards freedom <strong>and</strong> a common humanity.<br />
84<br />
MUSEUMS<br />
THE OLD HOUSE MUSEUM in St Andrew’s Street is a replica<br />
of the original Robinson home built in 1850. It first belonged<br />
<strong>to</strong> George Robinson (founding edi<strong>to</strong>r of the Mercury newspaper)<br />
<strong>and</strong> then <strong>to</strong> his son Sir John Robinson, the first Prime Minister<br />
of Natal during the 1890s. It was reconstructed by the city<br />
council after World War II <strong>and</strong> now houses a collection of<br />
furniture <strong>and</strong> artifacts from the 19th <strong>and</strong> early 20th centuries.<br />
www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_his<strong>to</strong>ry/oldhouse<br />
THE DURBAN NATURAL SCIENCE MUSEUM is a museum<br />
about the earth, <strong>its</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ry, <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> life forms, both past <strong>and</strong><br />
present. The museum, which has just been beautifully renovated<br />
<strong>and</strong> had <strong>its</strong> dioramas res<strong>to</strong>red, houses informative <strong>and</strong><br />
educational displays of mammals, birds, reptiles <strong>and</strong> fish. As<br />
well as being a window in<strong>to</strong> our local prehis<strong>to</strong>ry, there is even<br />
an Egyptian mummy <strong>and</strong> a lifesize replica of a tyrannosaurus.<br />
http://www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/nsm
THE KWA MUHLE MUSEUM Once the office of the Native Affairs<br />
Department, this museum now displays examples of the oppressive<br />
administration of the black population of <strong>Durban</strong> under apartheid. Corridors<br />
once trodden by apartheid policy makers are now filled with school<br />
children learning about a past that we must never forget. But while the<br />
museum is a window in<strong>to</strong> a dark past, it is also a beacon of hope in the<br />
form of exhibitions which look <strong>to</strong>wards a brighter, collective future.<br />
www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_his<strong>to</strong>ry/kwamuhle<br />
THE CAMPBELL COLLECTION , which includes<br />
the Killie Campbell Africana Library, the William<br />
Campbell Picture Collection <strong>and</strong> the Mashu<br />
Museum of Ethnology, is an internationally<br />
renowned <strong>and</strong> unique collection of rare archival<br />
resources. The Campbell Collection is primarily<br />
known as a centre for high quality research,<br />
attracting post-graduate <strong>and</strong> established<br />
researchers in the fields of social science <strong>and</strong><br />
the humanities from all over the world.<br />
Nonetheless, the broad display of his<strong>to</strong>ric <strong>and</strong><br />
cultural artifacts provides an enriching<br />
experience for anyone with even the vaguest<br />
interest in the his<strong>to</strong>ry of the area. Visi<strong>to</strong>rs<br />
<strong>to</strong> the museum need <strong>to</strong> book in advance.<br />
http://www.campbell.ukzn.ac.za<br />
THE MARITIME MUSEUM harks back <strong>to</strong> a time when<br />
shipping was more about the sea <strong>and</strong> less about logistics.<br />
Located on the edge of the port closest <strong>to</strong> the city<br />
centre <strong>and</strong> backed by a panoramic view, the museum<br />
has an inspiring collection of vessels <strong>and</strong> nautical<br />
artifacts, as well as a freshly renovated in-door museum.<br />
www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_his<strong>to</strong>ry/portnatal<br />
85
THE PHANSI MUSEUM is a private museum which<br />
houses one of the biggest <strong>and</strong> most spectacular<br />
collections of African arts <strong>and</strong> crafts in the world. The<br />
collection is held in Roberts House, a fully res<strong>to</strong>red<br />
Vic<strong>to</strong>rian national monument, in Glenwood. Three floors<br />
of the Vic<strong>to</strong>rian mansion are packed with Zulu beadwork,<br />
earplugs, wire baskets, milk-pails, beer-pots <strong>and</strong> fertility<br />
dolls, Ndebele blankets <strong>and</strong> ceremonial items, <strong>and</strong><br />
artifacts from the Eastern Cape, Namibia <strong>and</strong> Kenya.<br />
www.phansi.com<br />
THE CATO MANOR HERITAGE CENTRE Once the site of<br />
forced removals, Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor is an area of great significance<br />
<strong>to</strong> the his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>Durban</strong>. The centre chronicles the fascinating<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry of the area, linking the s<strong>to</strong>ries of past <strong>and</strong> present<br />
Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor <strong>to</strong> the broader his<strong>to</strong>ry of South Africa.<br />
www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_his<strong>to</strong>ry/ca<strong>to</strong>manor<br />
86<br />
THE OLD COURT HOUSE is <strong>Durban</strong>’s oldest surviving public building.<br />
Erected in 1863 as a Courthouse <strong>and</strong> Post Office, it has borne witness<br />
<strong>to</strong> much of the city’s his<strong>to</strong>ry. The building was converted in<strong>to</strong> a local<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry museum in 1940 <strong>and</strong> has two floors of exhibition space depicting<br />
aspects of <strong>Durban</strong>’s early his<strong>to</strong>ry, including a fine collection of period<br />
costumes, maps, documentation <strong>and</strong> pho<strong>to</strong>graphs. Research facilities<br />
are available for those seeking a more in-depth perspective.<br />
www.durban.gov.za/durban/discover/museums/local_his<strong>to</strong>ry/courthouse
The <strong>Durban</strong> System was the first<br />
incarnation of urban racial segregation.<br />
The purpose of the system was<br />
<strong>to</strong> control <strong>and</strong> moni<strong>to</strong>r the movements<br />
of the African migrant population.<br />
To finance the <strong>Durban</strong> System, the<br />
Native Beer Act was passed in 1908,<br />
giving municipalities in Natal the<br />
sole right <strong>to</strong> brew <strong>and</strong> sell beer within<br />
their boundaries. The <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Municipality began <strong>to</strong> brew <strong>its</strong> own<br />
beer, selling it through a network of<br />
beerhalls which it established. The<br />
first municipal beer-hall opened in<br />
1909 <strong>and</strong> soon the system was<br />
reaping huge prof<strong>its</strong>. Nothing was<br />
allowed <strong>to</strong> threaten this situation<br />
<strong>and</strong> every effort was made <strong>to</strong> stamp<br />
out the illegal brewing <strong>and</strong> sale of<br />
beer, including regular police raids.<br />
The <strong>Durban</strong> Natural Science Museum<br />
First Floor, City Hall, An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede Street<br />
+27 31 311 2256/2241<br />
The Old House Museum<br />
31 Diaconia Street<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 311 2261<br />
The Killie Campbell Africana Library<br />
220 Gladys Mazibuko Road<br />
+27 31 260 1720<br />
The Kwa Muhle Museum<br />
130 Bram Fischer Road<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 311 2237<br />
The Ca<strong>to</strong> Manor Heritage Centre<br />
Intuthuko Junction, 750 Rick Turner Road, Ca<strong>to</strong><br />
Manor<br />
+27 31 261 3216<br />
The Old Court House<br />
99 Samora Machel Street<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 311 2226/7<br />
The Phansi Museum<br />
500 Esther Roberts Road<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 206 2889<br />
Bergtheil Museum<br />
16 Queens Avenue<br />
Westville<br />
+72 31 2037 107<br />
Pine<strong>to</strong>wn Museum<br />
Corner of Joosiah Gumede <strong>and</strong> Cromp<strong>to</strong>n<br />
Street, Pine<strong>to</strong>wn<br />
+27 31 311 6343<br />
J L Dube Interpretation Centre<br />
Ohlange Institute, In<strong>and</strong>a, M-25 (kwaMashu<br />
Highway)<br />
+27 72 503 3495<br />
Museums in <strong>Durban</strong><br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Holocaust Centre<br />
44 K.E. Masinga Road<br />
+27 31 368 6833<br />
Port Natal Maritime Museum<br />
Maritime Place, Small Craft Harbour<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 311 3216<br />
Ammazulu African Palace<br />
20 Windsor Road, Kloof<br />
+27 31 206 2889<br />
Geology Education Museum<br />
Science 1 Building, University Road,<br />
University of KZN <strong>Durban</strong>-Westville<br />
+27 31 260 2524<br />
In<strong>and</strong>a Seminary<br />
M-25 (KwaMashu Highway)<br />
Emachobeni, In<strong>and</strong>a Mission 4310<br />
+27 31 510 1011<br />
Warriors Gate Moth Shrine & Museum<br />
1 NMR Avenue, <strong>Durban</strong><br />
(opposite Sahara Kingsmead Cricket Stadium)<br />
+27 31 307 3337<br />
Natural Science Museum Research Centre<br />
151 KE Masinga Road<br />
City Centre<br />
+27 31 322 4210/2<br />
Local His<strong>to</strong>ry Museums Research <strong>and</strong><br />
Enquiries Service The Local His<strong>to</strong>ry Museums<br />
provide an enquiry service for researchers,<br />
students <strong>and</strong> members of the public at the<br />
Old Court House Museum. For those interested<br />
in finding out more about our his<strong>to</strong>ry, the<br />
enquiry section is open between 8.30am <strong>and</strong><br />
3.30pm weekdays. Staff members will make<br />
every effort <strong>to</strong> assist you with information <strong>and</strong><br />
items from the archives. Due <strong>to</strong> the archival<br />
nature of the collections, conditions associated<br />
with their use <strong>and</strong> reproduction are<br />
strictly controlled. Phone +27 31 311 2226/7.<br />
.<br />
87
DURBAN HAS A GENEROUS SELECTION OF PUBLIC<br />
parks <strong>and</strong> gardens as well as an array of nature reserves,<br />
many of them located a short distance from the city centre.<br />
With a sub-tropical climate, more than 300 days of sunshine<br />
a year <strong>and</strong> a generous annual rainfall, the city is lush with<br />
vegetation <strong>and</strong> remains mostly green in <strong>Durban</strong>’s mild<br />
winter. The beautifully maintained Botanic Gardens, Mitchell<br />
Park <strong>and</strong> Jameson Park showcase this verdant heritage<br />
<strong>and</strong> also provide important green open spaces. Burman<br />
Bush, Pigeon Valley <strong>and</strong> the Hawaan Forest are all well<br />
maintained natural areas in residential areas that are<br />
accessible <strong>to</strong> all, while Krantzkloof <strong>and</strong> Shongweni Nature<br />
Reserves provide a window in<strong>to</strong> the profound beauty of<br />
the natural African l<strong>and</strong>scape.<br />
As well as providing beautiful destinations for the many<br />
<strong>to</strong>urists that visit the region, these parks <strong>and</strong> gardens are<br />
integral <strong>to</strong> the quality of life of <strong>Durban</strong>’s residents. Aside<br />
from the broad ecological benef<strong>its</strong> of retaining, maintaining<br />
<strong>and</strong> developing green areas close <strong>to</strong> the city, they also<br />
provide important recreation spaces.<br />
88<br />
GETTING OUT<br />
SHONGWENI RESOURCES RESERVE offers an authentic African<br />
experience. This 1700 hectare reserve includes an incredible<br />
diversity of vegetation <strong>and</strong> bird life, with <strong>its</strong> l<strong>and</strong>scape<br />
encompassing cliffs, waterfalls, rivers, dams, open grassl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />
bushveld. Quality accommodation is available <strong>and</strong>, although only<br />
half an hour away from <strong>Durban</strong>, the reserve offers big game<br />
viewing as well as fishing, water spots <strong>and</strong> a variety of walks.<br />
Phone +27 31 760 1283<br />
PIGEON VALLEY is located near the city centre in the surburb<br />
of Bulwer <strong>and</strong> is readily accessible from Mazisi Kunene Road.<br />
This small park contains many large indigenous trees, including<br />
the Natal Elm, <strong>and</strong> preserves something of the original coastal<br />
forest environment. A good birding site for forest birds<br />
in particular, the park includes short trails on both<br />
sides of the valley, through which a small stream runs.<br />
Phone +27 31 201 1303
DURBAN’S BOTANIC GARDENS was established in 1849. The oldest<br />
such park in Africa, it includes a selection of well established trees<br />
<strong>and</strong> a small indigenous forest. The gardens are home <strong>to</strong> the rare<br />
cycad Encephalar<strong>to</strong>s woodii <strong>and</strong> includes a lovingly maintained orchid<br />
house, an informative visi<strong>to</strong>rs centre <strong>and</strong> a charming coffee shop.<br />
Located on <strong>Durban</strong>’s Berea, with a pond <strong>and</strong> beautifully l<strong>and</strong>scaped<br />
lawn at <strong>its</strong> centre, it’s the perfect place for a stress-free family outing.<br />
Phone +27 31 322 4000<br />
TREASURE BEACH offers a tiny, unspoilt slice of local<br />
paradise. Located on <strong>Durban</strong>’s bluff, <strong>its</strong> mix of beach<br />
<strong>and</strong> coastal dunel<strong>and</strong> is one of <strong>Durban</strong>’s best kept<br />
secrets. Marine life is plentiful in the lovely rock pools<br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> banks offer unparalleled views of the Indian<br />
Ocean. Group accommodation is available, as well as<br />
day <strong>and</strong> night walks along the rocky, wavecut shore.<br />
Phone +27 31 467 8507<br />
KRANTZKLOOF NATURE RESERVE offers breath-taking<br />
views of the spectacular gorge system created by the Molweni<br />
<strong>and</strong> Nqudu Rivers. There are a number of marked self-guided<br />
walks available through this amazing natural l<strong>and</strong>scape. The<br />
reserve includes many rare plants as well as frequent closeup<br />
sightings of eagles <strong>and</strong> falcons. Braai facilities are available,<br />
as well as guided walks <strong>and</strong> guided birding <strong>and</strong> game viewing.<br />
Phone +27 31 764 3515<br />
89
THE HAWAAN FOREST NATURE RESERVE is a 110 hectare stretch of<br />
forest in the middle of residential Umhlanga that has survived the<br />
process of urbanisation. The reserve is a beautiful example of coastal<br />
lowl<strong>and</strong> forest that includes many rare trees as well as a number of<br />
small indigenous animals such as bushbuck, bushpig, duiker, mongoose<br />
<strong>and</strong> guinea fowl. Facilities include a picnic area, guided walks,<br />
birding <strong>and</strong> game viewing. If you’d like a guide, you need <strong>to</strong> book ahead.<br />
Phone +27 31 201 3126/+27 (0) 31 572 6218<br />
90<br />
Green Space Many of <strong>Durban</strong>’s open spaces fall within the<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Metropolitan Open Space System, which links 2100<br />
hectares of of open space, including nine parks, river valleys<br />
<strong>and</strong> coastal l<strong>and</strong>, <strong>and</strong> is administered by the Parks Department.<br />
PALMIET NATURE RESERVE has a diversity of birds <strong>and</strong><br />
plants living among <strong>its</strong> gentle waterways, grassl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong><br />
cliffs. With a small area of Saligna woodl<strong>and</strong>, the reserve<br />
is a lovely spot <strong>to</strong> while away an afternoon <strong>and</strong> learn<br />
more about local fauna at the Interpretive Centre. The<br />
reserve is also an his<strong>to</strong>ric site <strong>and</strong> includes part of the<br />
original wagon route from <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>to</strong> Pietermaritzburg.<br />
Phone +27 31 203 7065<br />
MITCHELL PARK & JAMESON PARK are located<br />
at the <strong>to</strong>p of Florida Road. With <strong>its</strong> majestic<br />
trees <strong>and</strong> beautifully manicured flower beds,<br />
Mitchell Park is a popular spot for family outings.<br />
Across the road is Jameson Park, which is home<br />
<strong>to</strong> a mass of beautifully maintained rose bushes<br />
<strong>and</strong> which provides a wonderful view of the city.<br />
Phone +27 31 303 2275
The Ethekwini Parks Department is<br />
responsible for the effective development<br />
<strong>and</strong> management of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
parks, open spaces <strong>and</strong> natural areas in<br />
order <strong>to</strong> meet community needs. The<br />
core functions of the department are <strong>to</strong><br />
develop, maintain <strong>and</strong> control the city’s<br />
open spaces, <strong>its</strong> traffic isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> verges,<br />
suburban sports fields <strong>and</strong> surrounds,<br />
as well as growing <strong>and</strong> maintaining<br />
roadside trees. Other responsibilities<br />
include the development <strong>and</strong> upkeep of<br />
the city’s parks <strong>and</strong> gardens, <strong>its</strong> nurseries<br />
<strong>and</strong> plant production <strong>and</strong> the<br />
conservation of natural areas <strong>and</strong> nature<br />
reserves. The Department provides one<br />
of the most vital services provided by<br />
local councils. The development <strong>and</strong><br />
maintenance of a park <strong>and</strong> open space<br />
system is a key fac<strong>to</strong>r that contributes<br />
<strong>to</strong> quality of life in eThekwini. Scattered<br />
throughout the city are parks <strong>and</strong><br />
recreational open spaces covering over<br />
6 000 hectares. Unfortunately, not all<br />
the residents of the city have equal<br />
access <strong>to</strong> recreational open space <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong> rectify this situation the Department<br />
is now also involved in the development<br />
of areas that previously fell outside<br />
the jurisdiction of the Municipality.<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Botanic<br />
Gardens<br />
70 St Thomas Road<br />
Musgrave<br />
+27 31 322 4000<br />
Burman Bush Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
101 Burman Drive<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 4466<br />
Japanese Gardens<br />
Tinsley Road<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> North<br />
+27 31 563 1333<br />
Kenneth Stainbank<br />
Nature Reserve<br />
90 Coedmore Avenue<br />
Yellowwood Park<br />
+27 31 469 2807<br />
THE UMNGENI RIVER BIRD PARK is home <strong>to</strong> more than<br />
400 different species of bird. With a strong emphasis on<br />
conservation <strong>and</strong> education, the park features birds from<br />
North <strong>and</strong> South America, Africa, Indonesia <strong>and</strong> Australia<br />
while the Cocka<strong>to</strong>o Café, situated in the heart of the bird<br />
park, provides visi<strong>to</strong>rs with delicious breakfasts <strong>and</strong> light<br />
lunches. In 2009 the eThekwini Municipality agreed <strong>to</strong><br />
purchase the Umgeni River Bird Park from <strong>its</strong> previous owners<br />
Tsogo Sun Gaming, rather than allow it <strong>to</strong> close down.<br />
Phone +27 31 579 4600<br />
Krantzkloof Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
Kloof Falls Road<br />
Kloof<br />
+27 31 764 3515<br />
Mitchell Park<br />
Cnr Innes & Ferndale<br />
Roads<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 2275<br />
Pigeon Valley Park<br />
Princess Alice Avenue<br />
Bulwer<br />
+27 31 201 1303<br />
Robert Jameson<br />
Park<br />
350 Montpelier Road<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 312 2318<br />
Public Gardens<br />
Public Gardens <strong>and</strong> Reserves Outdoor Events<br />
Shongweni<br />
Resources Reserve<br />
Shongweni Dam,<br />
Shongweni<br />
+27 31 769 1283<br />
Umgeni River Bird<br />
Park<br />
Riverside Road<br />
Umgeni<br />
+27 31 579 4600<br />
Ampitheatre Gardens<br />
Snell Promenade<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> beach front<br />
+27 31 311 1111<br />
Silverglen Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
Lakeview Drive<br />
Chatsworth<br />
+27 31 404 5628<br />
Phezulu Safrai Park<br />
5 Old Main Road<br />
Bothas Hill<br />
+27 31 777 1000/ 1464<br />
Umgeni Steam<br />
Railway<br />
66 Old Main Road<br />
Kloof<br />
+27 31 303 3003<br />
Amblers Hiking Club<br />
1 Acacia Avenue<br />
Westville<br />
+27 31 266 8602<br />
Mountain<br />
Backpackers Club<br />
+27 72 226 2772<br />
Ramblers Hiking Club<br />
+27 31 765 5029<br />
91
AFTER THE SUCCESSFUL HOSTING OF<br />
several Fifa World Cup games, <strong>Durban</strong>’s reputation<br />
as a sporting city continues <strong>to</strong> grow, both in terms<br />
of the events hosted by the city <strong>and</strong> the wealth of<br />
sporting talent generated within eThekwini.<br />
This is no doubt related <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong>’s subtropical<br />
climate which allows avid sportsmen <strong>and</strong> women <strong>to</strong><br />
practise their sport all year round, <strong>and</strong> which<br />
encourages a general outdoor culture <strong>and</strong> physical<br />
exercise. The warm Indian Ocean is the ideal setting<br />
for <strong>Durban</strong>’s many water-sport enthusiasts <strong>and</strong><br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s beaches are world-renowned for their waves.<br />
Major sporting events such as horse racing’s <strong>Durban</strong><br />
July <strong>and</strong> the Comrades Marathon continue <strong>to</strong> draw<br />
attention from all over the world. Soccer <strong>and</strong> rugby<br />
also play important roles in promoting the city, with<br />
local games attracting crowds of over 50 000 people.<br />
Meanwhile the sports fields <strong>and</strong> parks of <strong>Durban</strong><br />
are filled with friendly games, <strong>and</strong> groups meeting<br />
for a range of organised activities, from yoga<br />
<strong>to</strong> martial arts.<br />
92<br />
SPORT<br />
CLIVE BARKER ensured himself a place in the pantheon of<br />
South African football greats when, as manager, he led Bafana<br />
Bafana <strong>to</strong> the African Cup of Nations title in 1996. Barker is<br />
a born <strong>and</strong> bred <strong>Durban</strong>ite who, as well as his explo<strong>its</strong> on a<br />
national level, has managed a variety of <strong>Durban</strong> clubs. He led<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> City <strong>to</strong> two titles in the now defunct National<br />
Professional Soccer League <strong>and</strong> clinched the inaugural National<br />
Soccer League with <strong>Durban</strong> Bush Bucks. Barker<br />
is currently the head coach of the <strong>Durban</strong> side AmaZulu.<br />
THANDUYISE KHUBONI is a <strong>to</strong>ugh-tackling defensive midfielder who<br />
currently plies his trade for the <strong>Durban</strong>-based side Golden Arrows. He<br />
was included in the Bafana Bafana squad for the 2010 Fifa World Cup,<br />
helping his team <strong>to</strong> a 2-1 win over France. Khuboni made his debut for<br />
the Arrows in 2007 as a 20-year-old <strong>and</strong> has gone on <strong>to</strong> establish himself<br />
as a key member of the squad thanks <strong>to</strong> his superb ability <strong>to</strong> read the<br />
game. Many pund<strong>its</strong> believe he has only just begun <strong>to</strong> tap in<strong>to</strong> his vast<br />
potential <strong>and</strong> that the best is yet <strong>to</strong> come from this modest player.
HASHIM AMLA made cricketing his<strong>to</strong>ry when he became the first<br />
South African of Indian descent <strong>to</strong> be picked for the national cricket<br />
team, the Proteas. Born in 1983, the elegant <strong>and</strong> wristy right h<strong>and</strong><br />
batsman made his debut for KZN cricket team the Dolphins while only<br />
18 years old. His performances soon made him a favourite of the<br />
Kingsmead crowd <strong>and</strong> it was only a matter of time before he achieved<br />
higher honours. Amla, a devout Muslim, has also attracted praise for his<br />
request <strong>to</strong> have logos promoting alcohol removed from his playing gear.<br />
SEWSUNKER ‘PAPWA’ SEWGOLUM was the first person<br />
of colour <strong>to</strong> win a professional golf <strong>to</strong>urnament in South<br />
Africa. Apartheid prevented him from achieving his true<br />
place in golf ’s pantheon of greats, but he is nonetheless<br />
recognised as one of the greatest players of all time.<br />
Despite the challenges, Sewgolum still managed <strong>to</strong> win<br />
three Dutch Opens in the 1960s, as well as two Natal<br />
Opens. The second vic<strong>to</strong>ry resulted in an international<br />
outcry when Sewgolum was forced <strong>to</strong> accept his<br />
trophy outside in the rain, because the laws of the day<br />
prevented him from entering the club house. He died<br />
impoverished in 1978, of a heart attack, at the age of 48.<br />
SHAUN THOMSON was part of the Free Ride generation<br />
which changed the face of surfing. Riding the infamous waves<br />
along Oahu’s legendary North Shore with a style, aggression,<br />
<strong>and</strong> courage previously unseen, they were the first riders <strong>to</strong><br />
really apply themselves as professional surfers. With his looks,<br />
eloquence <strong>and</strong> athleticism, Thomson served as the face <strong>and</strong><br />
voice of this movement, <strong>and</strong> is still viewed as the archetypal<br />
pro surfer. He won the IPS World Championship in 1977.<br />
93
PENNY HEYNS is one of South Africa’s most successful swimming stars.<br />
She is the only woman in the his<strong>to</strong>ry of the Olympic Games <strong>to</strong> have won<br />
both the 100m <strong>and</strong> 200m breaststroke events – at the 1996 Atlanta Olympic<br />
Games – making her South Africa’s first post-apartheid Olympic gold medallist<br />
following the country’s re-admission <strong>to</strong> the Games in 1992. Heyns continued<br />
her swimming career <strong>and</strong> was asked <strong>to</strong> represent the USA in the Olympic<br />
games but chose not <strong>to</strong> let her fellow South Africans down. As a sign of her<br />
commitment, she sports a tat<strong>to</strong>o of the springbok on her shoulder.<br />
94<br />
SIYABONGA SANGWENI was part of the South<br />
African squad that competed in the 2010 Fifa World<br />
Cup, although the imposing defender failed <strong>to</strong> make<br />
an appearance in the <strong>to</strong>urnament. Sangweni is<br />
usually used in the centre of defence by his club<br />
Golden Arrows but is equally adept at playing at<br />
right back. A no-nonsense hard man, Sangweni<br />
made his debut for his country in 2007. As Bafana<br />
Bafana rebuilds after the Fifa World Cup, Sangweni<br />
should find himself playing a more pivotal role.<br />
WENDY KHUMALO is a young, talented rugby player who<br />
has made her mark at both provincial <strong>and</strong> international levels.<br />
Khumalo had her first trial for the KwaZulu-Natal women’s<br />
team while she was still at school. Although she was not picked<br />
initially, her tenacity shone through <strong>and</strong> it wasn’t long before<br />
she gained her provincial colours. The <strong>to</strong>ugh-as-teak flank<br />
forward has already represented her country at a Rugby World<br />
Cup. And despite a serious injury incurred at that competition,<br />
Khumalo shows no sign of slowing down anytime soon.
Moses Mabhida Stadium While this<br />
world-class stadium was specifically<br />
built for the month-long Fifa 2010<br />
World Cup, <strong>its</strong> impact on the city will<br />
be felt for decades <strong>to</strong> come. Not least<br />
of these, should it be successful, will<br />
be the city’s bid <strong>to</strong> host the Olympics<br />
in 2020. The stadium is a state-ofthe-art<br />
multifunctional arena located<br />
in the heart of the Kings Park Sporting<br />
Precinct. It seated 70 000 fans for the<br />
Fifa World Cup, with 54 000 of those<br />
seats permanent, <strong>and</strong> the potential <strong>to</strong><br />
exp<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> 85 000 seats <strong>to</strong> meet the<br />
requirements of large-scale events<br />
such as the Olympics. The stadium<br />
will be the jewel in the crown of the<br />
Kings Park Sporting precinct, once<br />
plans for the precinct are complete.<br />
The precinct will feature additional<br />
sporting arenas <strong>and</strong> facilities, as well<br />
as entertainment facilities, while a<br />
walkway linking the stadium <strong>to</strong> the<br />
beach has already revitalised the area.<br />
Going For Gold <strong>Durban</strong>’s plans <strong>to</strong> bid<br />
<strong>to</strong> host the 2020 Olympics were given<br />
a substantial boost by the decision of<br />
the International Olympic Committee<br />
<strong>to</strong> use the city as the venue for the IOC<br />
General Assembly’s congress in 2011.<br />
JORDY SMITH has set the surfing world alight. The 23-year<br />
old <strong>Durban</strong> local has impressed experts with his fluid style<br />
<strong>and</strong> single-minded determination <strong>to</strong> reach the <strong>to</strong>p. So great<br />
is his potential that he has been likened <strong>to</strong> South Africa’s<br />
only previous world champion, Shaun Thomson. In 2006<br />
Smith showed what he was capable of, when he was crowned<br />
the ASP World Junior Champion. In 2010, he made good on<br />
that promise <strong>and</strong> claimed the ASP World Championship,<br />
as Thomson did more than three decades before him.<br />
95
WALKING AROUND THE CITY OF DURBAN YOU’LL<br />
see several strange <strong>and</strong> unfamiliar sites. What are those<br />
white s<strong>to</strong>ne circles that you see all around the city? What<br />
do the h<strong>and</strong> signals used by people at taxi s<strong>to</strong>ps mean?<br />
And what is that strange prehis<strong>to</strong>ric looking bird that makes<br />
a high, startled cry? Why do so many number plates feature<br />
the numbers 786 <strong>and</strong> why are some women’s faces painted<br />
white or red? Why is there a tree in the middle of that oddlooking<br />
building <strong>and</strong> why do some of the roads have two<br />
names? Read on for answers <strong>to</strong> these questions <strong>and</strong> more<br />
about the mysteries of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
96<br />
MYSTERIES<br />
Hidden City <strong>Durban</strong> is a beautiful city on the surface, but,<br />
more than most cities, much of <strong>its</strong> real beauty lies hidden<br />
beneath the <strong>to</strong>urist-friendly mainstream. If you explore the city<br />
on your own terms, you’ll come across unexpected treasure<br />
troves of experience <strong>and</strong> cultural delight. Follow the streets,<br />
talk <strong>to</strong> the locals <strong>and</strong> find out as much as you can about the<br />
rich <strong>and</strong> unusual texture of eThekwini. Doing so will greatly<br />
enhance your experience of this edgy African city. Local <strong>to</strong>ur<br />
opera<strong>to</strong>r ‘Street Scene’ offers alternative <strong>to</strong>urs of <strong>Durban</strong>.<br />
Contact +27 83 320 2765 or go <strong>to</strong> www.streetscene<strong>to</strong>urs.co.za.<br />
SHEMBE TEMPLES The white s<strong>to</strong>ne circles that are seen in<br />
many of <strong>Durban</strong>’s public spaces - <strong>and</strong> even on traffic isl<strong>and</strong>s -<br />
are Shembe Temples. The Shembe religion is an Africanised<br />
Christian theology founded by the prophet Isaiah Shembe at<br />
the end of the 19th century <strong>and</strong> is one of the largest religious<br />
groupings in South Africa. These s<strong>to</strong>ne temples have ‘doors’<br />
which are indicated by a gap in the s<strong>to</strong>nes <strong>and</strong> entering the<br />
temple without using the doors is considered sacrilegious.<br />
WHITE AND RED FACE PAINT The red <strong>and</strong> white face paint<br />
you see on the faces of women in <strong>Durban</strong> <strong>and</strong> KwaZulu-<br />
Natal is actually clay <strong>and</strong> chalk respectively, which women<br />
buy at local markets in round balls, <strong>and</strong> which are<br />
traditionally used for both beauty <strong>and</strong> ritual purposes. The<br />
red clay is used as a natural <strong>and</strong> organic alternative <strong>to</strong><br />
sunscreen while the white chalk indicates that a woman<br />
has entered her training as a sangoma (traditional healer).
TAXI SIGNALS If you see a stranger at the side of the road making<br />
unusual h<strong>and</strong> signals, they’re not being rude. In fact, they are calling<br />
a minibus taxi (one of the primary modes of transport for <strong>Durban</strong>ites)<br />
<strong>and</strong> telling the driver where it is that they want <strong>to</strong> go. If you know<br />
the sign language, it’s like carrying your own bus s<strong>to</strong>p around with<br />
you in the palm of your h<strong>and</strong>. For those <strong>to</strong>urists who favour minibuses<br />
over the more expensive taxis, ask a local about the various<br />
signals. H<strong>and</strong> signals vary from region <strong>to</strong> region in South Africa.<br />
ROAD NAMES You will notice that in some cases there<br />
are two different names for the same road. Many of the<br />
roads in the centre of the city have recently been renamed<br />
<strong>to</strong> honour the heroes of South Africa’s liberation struggle<br />
<strong>and</strong> their international comrades. To facilitate the transition<br />
as smoothly as possible, the old names will remain for a<br />
period of time with a red line drawn through them.<br />
HADEDAS Visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> are often taken aback by<br />
this strange looking bird with <strong>its</strong> curved beak <strong>and</strong> startled<br />
cry which is seen throughout the city. The hadeda (named<br />
for the peculiar sound it makes) is actually a species of<br />
ibis. It is found throughout the open grassl<strong>and</strong>s of central<br />
<strong>and</strong> Southern Africa, but is equally at home in parks <strong>and</strong><br />
gardens throughout urban <strong>Durban</strong>. The Zulu word for<br />
hadeda is iNkankane which is similarly onama<strong>to</strong>peic.<br />
97
786 Observant visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> will notice that among the<br />
proliferation of cus<strong>to</strong>mised number plates, as well as elsewhere in the<br />
city, the number 786 frequently appears. This is due <strong>to</strong> the fact that<br />
the number has great mystical or religious significance in Islam. Some<br />
believe that 786 is the number of days in which Allah created the<br />
world, while others think that it refers <strong>to</strong> the number of days it <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
Muhammad <strong>to</strong> conquer Mecca. Regardless of <strong>its</strong> origin, the number is<br />
displayed in personal <strong>and</strong> public spaces as an expression of faith.<br />
TEMPLES BEING BORN <strong>Durban</strong> has a large Hindu population<br />
<strong>and</strong> there are thus many Hindu Temples in <strong>and</strong> around the<br />
city. Some of these temples began their lives as sites where<br />
auspicious events have taken place. There are several such<br />
sites in central <strong>Durban</strong>. On a traffic isl<strong>and</strong> in Greyville you<br />
will see a structure built around a tree. This temple only<br />
came in<strong>to</strong> existence a few years ago when a snake was<br />
found living there by a priest, at which point it was marked<br />
as a holy site with the simple adornment of a sari <strong>and</strong><br />
coloured powder. On another main traffic route, in Springfield<br />
Park, you will see an anthill (where a snake also appeared),<br />
similarly wrapped in cloth <strong>and</strong> adorned with pink powder.<br />
98<br />
PRAYER FLAGS You might see small red triangular<br />
flags around <strong>Durban</strong> with an image of a<br />
monkey on them or what looks like a swastika.<br />
These flags are Hindu flags named dhvajas, the<br />
monkey is the Hindu deity Hanuman <strong>and</strong> the<br />
reversed swastika is an ancient Hindu symbol.<br />
Prayer flags are thought <strong>to</strong> impart a feeling of<br />
harmony <strong>and</strong> represent an ancient Eastern tradition.
100<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
DURBAN HAS A FULL SPREAD OF ACCOMMODATION<br />
options, from affordable backpacker lodges <strong>to</strong> a range<br />
of beautifully decorated boutique hotels, bed-<strong>and</strong>breakfast<br />
establishments <strong>and</strong> world-class high end<br />
hotels, all supported by friendly staff, <strong>and</strong> often<br />
featuring an intimacy that is rare in the world of<br />
travellers’ accomodation.<br />
Agape Backpackers<br />
60 Marine Drive, Bluff<br />
+27 31 466 3960<br />
Afrique Backpackers<br />
1 Princess Alice Avenue<br />
Glenwood<br />
+27 31 205 7072<br />
Angle Rock Backpackers<br />
5 Alcock Road, Warner Beach<br />
+27 31 916 7007<br />
Anstey’s Backpackers<br />
477 Marine Drive<br />
Brigh<strong>to</strong>n Beach<br />
+27 31 467 1192<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Beach Backpackers<br />
19 An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede Street<br />
+27 31 332 4945<br />
Gibela Backpackers Lodge<br />
119 9th Avenue, Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 6292<br />
Hippo Hide Lodge<br />
2 Jesmond Road<br />
Berea<br />
+27 31 207 4366<br />
Backpackers<br />
Home Backpackers<br />
34 Alcock Crescent, Tollgate<br />
+27 31 208 9522<br />
Illovo Beach Resort<br />
17 Elizabeth Avenue<br />
Illovo Beach<br />
+27 31 916 3472<br />
Nomads Backpackers<br />
70 Stephen Dlamini Rd, Berea<br />
+27 31 202 9709<br />
Smith’s Cottagte<br />
5 Mount Argus Road<br />
Umgeni Heights<br />
+27 31 564 6313<br />
Tekweni Backpackers<br />
169 9th Avenue,<br />
Morningside<br />
+27 31 303 1433<br />
The Valley Trust<br />
Zulu Reserve Road, Botha’s Hill<br />
+27 31 777 1955<br />
Travellers International<br />
743 Currie Road<br />
Morningside
Fairways Golf Lodge *****<br />
Set in one of South Africa’s most pristine golf<br />
estates among the rolling hills of <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
coastline, the gracious Fairways Golf Lodge,<br />
offers every comfort <strong>and</strong> luxury one could<br />
desire.<br />
Mt Edgecombe Golf Estate, Course 2<br />
Phone +27 31 538 2900<br />
Riverside Hotel ****<br />
Situated above the Umgeni River, in <strong>Durban</strong>’s<br />
beautiful “green belt”, the Riverside boasts<br />
spectacular views, excellent service <strong>and</strong><br />
sound 4-star accommodation as well as close<br />
proximity <strong>to</strong> most of <strong>Durban</strong>’s great sights<br />
<strong>and</strong> sounds.<br />
10 Kenneth Kaunda Drive, <strong>Durban</strong> North<br />
Phone +27 31 563 0600<br />
Tropicana Hotel ***<br />
Located on the Golden Mile of <strong>Durban</strong>’s sunbaked<br />
beaches, the Tropicana Hotel offers<br />
both the intimacy of family living <strong>and</strong> the<br />
professionalism of conference <strong>and</strong> function<br />
rooms <strong>and</strong> banqueting staff.<br />
OR Tambo Parade, <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Phone +27 31 368 1511<br />
Quarters Hotel ****<br />
Four gracious Vic<strong>to</strong>rian homes have been<br />
wonderfully res<strong>to</strong>red <strong>to</strong> create this charming<br />
yet sophisticated hotel situated in one of<br />
<strong>Durban</strong>’s prime suburbs. Fine décor <strong>and</strong><br />
friendly staff combine <strong>to</strong> make this hotel one<br />
of the city’s best.<br />
101 Florida Road, Morningside, <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Phone +27 31 303 5246<br />
Hotel Izulu *****<br />
This exclusive 5-star property combines allsuite<br />
accommodation with a host of services<br />
<strong>to</strong> pamper <strong>and</strong> create an unashamed<br />
relaxation, making this one of the finest<br />
establishments on KZN’s beautiful North<br />
Coast.<br />
Rey’s Place, Balli<strong>to</strong><br />
Phone +27 32 946 3444<br />
Hotels/Game Lodges<br />
Amakhosi Lodge *****<br />
Amakhosi offers six magnificent 5-star lodges<br />
overlooking the Mkuze River, <strong>and</strong> a game<br />
reserve unrivalled for abundance <strong>and</strong> beauty.<br />
Amakhosi marries the wilderness of Africa<br />
with the majesty of 5-star accommodation.<br />
R69, Magudu<br />
+27 34 414 1157<br />
The Royal Hotel *****<br />
Set in the heart of cosmopolitan <strong>Durban</strong>, this<br />
5-star “haven of grace” is in close proximity<br />
<strong>to</strong> all amenities, <strong>and</strong> is founded on world<br />
class st<strong>and</strong>ards of hospitality <strong>and</strong> service.<br />
Elegance <strong>and</strong> luxury make The Royal a muststay<br />
in <strong>Durban</strong>. It is indeed aptly named.<br />
267 An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede Street, City Centre<br />
+27 31 333 6000<br />
Lyn<strong>to</strong>n Hall *****<br />
Set in a spectacular coastal forest near one of<br />
Africa’s most beautiful beaches, Lyn<strong>to</strong>n Hall is a<br />
gracious colonial property. Voted one of the ‘Top<br />
80 hotels in the world’ by Condé Nast, it ranks<br />
as one of the country’s most superb properties.<br />
Umdoni Village, Douglas Road, Scottburgh<br />
+27 39 975 3122<br />
Th<strong>and</strong>a Private Game Reserve *****<br />
Set in one of South Africa’s prime Big Five<br />
game reserves, Th<strong>and</strong>a is dedicated <strong>to</strong> the<br />
rehabilitation of KZN’s natural ecosystems<br />
<strong>and</strong> the celebration of Zulu culture. Nine<br />
luxury private villas set in the heart of pristine<br />
wilderness, make up this beautiful lodge.<br />
Hluhluwe<br />
Phone +27 11 469 5082<br />
Mkuze Falls Private Game Reserve *****<br />
This luxury game lodge overlooks the<br />
waterfalls of the Mkuze River. In the middle<br />
of a 10 000 hectare Big Five game reserve,<br />
this is one of the most exclusive <strong>and</strong> beautiful<br />
lodges in KwaZulu-Natal.<br />
R66, Magudu<br />
+27 34 414 1018<br />
101
102<br />
GOVERNANCE<br />
AS WITH ALL CITIES AND INSTITUTIONS IN SOUTH<br />
Africa, <strong>Durban</strong> has had <strong>to</strong> change fundamentally in order<br />
<strong>to</strong> accommodate <strong>and</strong> assimilate <strong>its</strong>elf within the context of<br />
the new South Africa, <strong>and</strong> provide services <strong>to</strong> all of the<br />
city’s residents.<br />
The organisational transformation agenda of the City<br />
has been driven by an analysis of both what will be delivered<br />
<strong>and</strong> how it will be delivered. In this new model, the City<br />
Manager heads the city management structure, assisted<br />
by six Deputy City Managers. These deputies each lead<br />
one of six clusters supported by technical <strong>and</strong> professional<br />
staff. These clusters are: Sustainable Development <strong>and</strong><br />
City Enterprises; Procurement <strong>and</strong> Infrastructure; Health,<br />
Safety <strong>and</strong> Social Services; Governance; Corporate <strong>and</strong><br />
Human Resources; <strong>and</strong> finally the Treasury.<br />
Political Structure The Municipality has 200 Councillors. 100<br />
are directly elected ward Councillors, <strong>and</strong> 100 are selected<br />
through proportional representation. The Municipality consists<br />
of the Executive Committee that reports <strong>to</strong> the full Council.<br />
Traditional Leadership In the eThekwini Municipality there are 17<br />
Amakhosi (traditional leaders) within the municipal area of<br />
jurisdiction. The Municipality works closely with traditional leadership<br />
<strong>and</strong> has structural communication channels in place <strong>to</strong> ensure<br />
continuous interaction. The Amakhosi meet on a monthly basis in<br />
their chamber in Pine<strong>to</strong>wn. The Council has seconded staff from<br />
the Municipality <strong>to</strong> assist the Amakhosi Chamber with administrative<br />
issues <strong>and</strong> secretariat activities. Given the commitment <strong>to</strong><br />
strengthening the partnership with the Amakhosi, the Municipality<br />
is currently exploring other mechanisms <strong>to</strong> further engage traditional<br />
leadership as the City’s Integrated Development Plan goes forward.<br />
THE SIX CLUSTERS OF CITY GOVERNMENT<br />
The organisational structure of <strong>Durban</strong>’s city government<br />
has been designed so that the the buck s<strong>to</strong>ps at exactly the<br />
right places.<br />
1. Sustainable Development <strong>and</strong> City Enterprises bears<br />
responsibility for development planning <strong>and</strong> management,<br />
economic development, city enterprises, business support,<br />
<strong>and</strong> the development <strong>and</strong> maintenance of markets around<br />
the city.<br />
2. Procurement <strong>and</strong> Infrastructure This cluster is concerned<br />
with procurement as well as housing, electricity, water <strong>and</strong><br />
sanitation, engineering, transport <strong>and</strong> ensuring a clean city.<br />
3. Health, Safety <strong>and</strong> Social Services This cluster looks after<br />
health issues in the city as well as the Metro police, emergency<br />
services, parks, recreation, cemeteries <strong>and</strong> culture.<br />
4. Governance is responsible for City Hall’s administration<br />
<strong>and</strong> secretariat, communications, regional centres, <strong>and</strong><br />
community participation <strong>and</strong> action support.<br />
5. Corporate <strong>and</strong> Human Resources are responsible for HR,<br />
skills development, management services, organisational<br />
development, legal services <strong>and</strong> occupational health <strong>and</strong><br />
safety.<br />
6. The Treasury looks after the city’s finances, <strong>its</strong> real estate<br />
<strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> au<strong>to</strong>mobile fleet.
OFFICE OF THE CITY MANAGER<br />
The office of the City Manager is fully staffed with a<br />
Geographic Information <strong>and</strong> Policy Office, an independent<br />
Ombudsperson Office, International <strong>and</strong> Governance<br />
Relations, <strong>and</strong> Audit offices.<br />
Geographic Information <strong>and</strong> Policy Office The Geographic<br />
Information <strong>and</strong> Policy Office (GIPO) was set up <strong>to</strong> spark<br />
a new creative spirit of bold <strong>and</strong> innovative thinking<br />
around corporate policies. It produces research on our<br />
citizens’ quality of life, coordinates local government’s<br />
input in<strong>to</strong> the census, <strong>and</strong> manages the Corporate<br />
Geographic Information Systems <strong>and</strong> Information<br />
Technology outputs <strong>and</strong> operations.<br />
Office of the Ombudsperson The functions of this office,<br />
which was established in December 2002, include defending<br />
citizens’ rights, investigating all complaints, ensuring that<br />
the principles of fairness <strong>and</strong> equity prevail in decisionmaking,<br />
ensuring compliance with transformation legislation,<br />
preparing <strong>and</strong> implementing the “clean administration”<br />
programme, <strong>and</strong> ensuring the develop-ment of programmes<br />
within various un<strong>its</strong> that appropriately deal with racism,<br />
sexism, xenophobia <strong>and</strong> related in<strong>to</strong>lerances.<br />
COUNCIL AND ITS COMMITTEES Council<br />
Committees are made up of elected politicians. It is<br />
through the committee structures that elected<br />
representatives set policies <strong>and</strong> guide implementation<br />
of all aspects of Council delivery. The nature, type<br />
<strong>and</strong> procedures of these committees are governed by<br />
national legislation.<br />
A full meeting of all councillors is held monthly, covering<br />
all committee <strong>and</strong> subcommittee decisions including those<br />
of the Executive Committee. Membership of the ninemember<br />
Executive Committee is based on the number of<br />
votes achieved by parties in local government elections.<br />
Informing <strong>and</strong> advising the Executive Committee is a<br />
International <strong>and</strong> Governance Relations Office As a<br />
result of the establishment of a full-time staffed Office on<br />
International <strong>and</strong> Governance Relations, our Municipality<br />
has been able <strong>to</strong> coordinate <strong>its</strong> efforts relating <strong>to</strong><br />
international liaison. In particular, during the current term<br />
of office numerous partnerships have been entered in<strong>to</strong><br />
with key international agencies <strong>and</strong> sister cities. In addition<br />
<strong>to</strong> international liaison coordination, the newly established<br />
Office has played an important role in ensuring that the<br />
spheres of government align their programmes<br />
<strong>to</strong>wards promoting more holistic development.<br />
Internal Audit <strong>and</strong> Performance Management Office<br />
Over the past few years, this office has been involved<br />
in ensuring that there is a rigorous system of internal<br />
control in the city. This has had a positive effect on the<br />
credit rating status of eThekwini <strong>and</strong> good corporate<br />
governance. Perhaps the most significant achievement<br />
in strategic terms has been the in-house development<br />
of a Performance Management System. The task of<br />
implementing a PMS in a large Municipality without<br />
external assistance <strong>and</strong> expertise is daunting, but<br />
eThekwini Municipality has deliberately chosen <strong>to</strong><br />
develop the system internally.<br />
number of support committees which focus on particular<br />
areas of the Council’s work, for example: Town Planning,<br />
Health <strong>and</strong> Safety, Economic Development <strong>and</strong> Planning,<br />
Infrastructure, Transport, Culture <strong>and</strong> Recreation, Housing,<br />
L<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Human Resources.<br />
The support committees are themselves further divided<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a number of st<strong>and</strong>ing subcommittees which deal with<br />
specific issues. These committees <strong>and</strong> their subcommittees<br />
meet regularly <strong>to</strong> review issues <strong>and</strong> prepare recommendations<br />
for the Executive Committee <strong>and</strong> full Council.<br />
Public attendance at Council meetings is encouraged<br />
<strong>to</strong> enable citizens <strong>to</strong> observe <strong>and</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> the most<br />
senior decision-making body in the Municipality.<br />
103
TRANSPORTATION<br />
THE KING SHAKA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT RECEIVES<br />
direct flights from various international destinations. Check<br />
their website for arrivals <strong>and</strong> departures. Various domestic<br />
services also fly frequently from the airport. These include<br />
Kulula, OneTime, SA Express <strong>and</strong> SAA. Inter-city coaches <strong>and</strong><br />
trains are reasonably priced <strong>and</strong> depart daily for various<br />
destinations. Check out the Greyhound, Baz Bus <strong>and</strong> Magic<br />
Bus websites.<br />
Within <strong>Durban</strong> the Mynah Bus <strong>and</strong> the <strong>People</strong> Mover buses<br />
offer a frequent <strong>and</strong> reliable local bus service that ferries<br />
passengers between the north <strong>and</strong> south beaches, the CBD<br />
<strong>and</strong> surrounding suburbs. Visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> the city are advised <strong>to</strong><br />
use conventional taxi cabs if they are going <strong>to</strong> be traveling<br />
within the city <strong>and</strong> <strong>its</strong> immediate suburbs. For more extensive<br />
driving, a hire-car is the most sensible option.<br />
104<br />
ETCETERA<br />
Your Safety In Our City <strong>Durban</strong>’s CBD in partnership with the Metro<br />
Police, the South African Police (SAP) <strong>and</strong> Tourist Protection Unit,<br />
has gone <strong>to</strong> considerable efforts <strong>to</strong> safeguard <strong>to</strong>urists against crime.<br />
Surveillance cameras <strong>and</strong> improved lighting have been installed on<br />
the beachfront, <strong>and</strong> security guards watch over most shopping<br />
centres <strong>and</strong> large businesses. Nonetheless, visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> our city should<br />
take the sensible precautions they would in any major city. Avoid<br />
carrying large sums of money, loose cameras or video cameras,<br />
<strong>and</strong> leaving belongings unattended. As in most big cities, it is<br />
sensible <strong>to</strong> take advice from locals about where <strong>to</strong> go after dark.<br />
MONEY MATTERS<br />
Currency The local currency is the South African R<strong>and</strong>.<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>matic Teller Machines (ATMs) will accept most<br />
international bank/credit cards including Visa, Cirrus <strong>and</strong><br />
Maestro.<br />
Credit Cards South Africa has one of the world’s most<br />
sophisticated banking systems, <strong>and</strong> most shops, hotels <strong>and</strong><br />
restaurants will accept credit cards.<br />
VAT South Africa has adopted a Value Added Tax system of<br />
14% on purchases <strong>and</strong> services. If you are a foreign visi<strong>to</strong>r<br />
<strong>to</strong> South Africa, you can reclaim VAT on your purchases,<br />
provided the <strong>to</strong>tal claim exceeds R250. VAT is refunded at<br />
the VAT Refund Office (see below) at King Shaka International<br />
Airport. Ensure that you receive a tax invoice from the s<strong>to</strong>re<br />
where you make your purchase, <strong>and</strong> on departure from South<br />
Africa present your goods <strong>and</strong> tax invoice for inspection at<br />
the VAT refund desk. Then collect your VAT refund cheque.<br />
Be sure <strong>to</strong> have your purchases readily available for inspection<br />
on departure from South Africa.<br />
VAT Refund Office<br />
King Shaka International Airport<br />
+27 32 436 9050<br />
VAT Refund Administra<strong>to</strong>r<br />
+27 11 394 1117 (Johannesburg)
Consulates<br />
Australia Tel: +27 31 209 7351 Fax: +27 31 209 4081<br />
Belguim Tel: +27 31 303 2840 Fax: +27 31 312 0434<br />
Canada Tel: +27 31 303 9695 Fax: +27 31 303 9694<br />
Chile Tel: +27 31 312 8608 Fax: +27 31 312 8608<br />
Denmark Tel: +27 31 202 9396 Fax: +27 31 202 9399<br />
Germany Tel: +27 31 305 5677 Fax: +27 31 305 5679<br />
Greece Tel: +27 31 301 4880 Fax: +27 31 301 4663<br />
India Tel: +27 31 304 7020 Fax: +27 31 301 4663<br />
Italy Tel: +27 31 368 4388 Fax: +27 31 368 4504<br />
Netherl<strong>and</strong>s Tel: +27 31 202 0461 Fax: +27 31 201 5043<br />
Norway/Sweden Tel: +27 31 207 6900 Fax: +27 31 207 5909<br />
Portugal Tel: +27 31 305 7511 Fax: +27 31 304 6036<br />
Rep. Madagascar Tel: +27 31 312 9704 Fax: +27 31 312 9704<br />
Rep. Mozambique Tel: +27 31 304 0200 Fax: +27 31 304 0774<br />
Spain Tel: +27 31 764 2574 Fax: +27 31 764 2550<br />
United Kingdom Tel: +27 31 305 3041 Fax: +27 31 307 4661<br />
USA Tel: +27 31 305 7600 Fax: +27 31 305 7650<br />
Uruguay Tel: +27 31 362 7331 Fax: +27 31 362 7331<br />
Forex<br />
Rennies +27 31 305 5722<br />
An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede Street, <strong>Durban</strong> Bay House<br />
First National Bank<br />
Main Branch<br />
Corner of An<strong>to</strong>n Lembede <strong>and</strong> Joe Slovo Street +27 31 369 5411<br />
Beach Branch +27 31 337 9464<br />
End of West Street<br />
St<strong>and</strong>ard Bank<br />
Main Branch +27 31 366 3811<br />
St<strong>and</strong>ard House, Dr Pixley KaSeme Street<br />
American Express<br />
Main Branch +27 31 301 5541<br />
No.1 <strong>Durban</strong> Club Place<br />
Musgrave +27 31 202 8733<br />
213 Musgrave Road, Berea<br />
Umhlanga +27 31 566 2620<br />
Shop 3D, 314 Umhlanga Rocks Drive<br />
The Pavilion +27 31 265 1455<br />
Shop 248C, The Pavilion, Spine Road<br />
105
106<br />
TOURIST SERVICES<br />
Tourist Junction +27 31 304 4934<br />
Visi<strong>to</strong>r Information Bureau<br />
Old Station Building, 1st Floor,<br />
160 Monty Naicker Road<br />
Mon-Fri: 08:00-16:30<br />
Sat: 09:00-14:00<br />
Beach Office +27 31 332 2595<br />
Joe Kool’s Complex,<br />
Mon-Fri: 08:00-17:00<br />
Sat: 08:30-16:30<br />
Sun & Pub. Hols: 09:00-16:00<br />
Airport Tourist Info Office +27 32 436 0035<br />
+27 31 451 6950<br />
uShaka Marine World +27 32 436 0013<br />
Metro Info Centre 0800 331 011<br />
City Communications Unit +27 31 311 4827<br />
King Shaka International Airport +27 32 436 6758<br />
KZN Tourism Authority +27 31 366 7500<br />
Thous<strong>and</strong> Hills Tourism +27 31 777 1874<br />
Amanzim<strong>to</strong>ti Tourism +27 31 903 7498<br />
Sugar Coast Tourism +27 31 561 4257<br />
Dolphin Coast Tourism +27 32 946 1997<br />
Parks Board Reservations<br />
South African National Parks +27 31 304 4934<br />
KZN Wildlife +27 31 304 4934<br />
City Walking Tours +27 31 304 4934<br />
Oriental, His<strong>to</strong>rical <strong>and</strong> <strong>Durban</strong> +27 31 332 2595<br />
Experience <strong>to</strong>urs depart from<br />
Tourist Junction daily. Booking<br />
essential. Weather permitting.<br />
Weather Information<br />
General +27 82 162<br />
Maritime +27 31 307 4135<br />
Useful Phone Numbers<br />
GENERAL SERVICES<br />
Computicket +27 83 915 8000<br />
Playhouse Company +27 31 369 9555<br />
City Hall +27 31 111 1111<br />
ICC +27 31 360 1000<br />
Metro Rail +27 31 361 7609<br />
Main Line Enquiries +27 31 361 3388<br />
Main Line Reservations +27 31 361 7464<br />
Au<strong>to</strong>mobile Association (AA)<br />
Shop 317, Musgrave Centre, +27 31 201 5244<br />
Musgrave Road<br />
Shop 255, Pavilion, +27 31 265 0437<br />
Spine Road<br />
The Post Office +27 31 336 3333<br />
Corner Dr Pixley KaSeme &<br />
Dorothy Nyembe Street<br />
Mon-Fri (excl Wed): 08:00-16:30<br />
Wed: 08:30-16:30<br />
Sat: 08:00-12:00<br />
<strong>Durban</strong> Library +27 31 311 2213<br />
Mon-Fri: 09:00-16:30<br />
Sat: 08:30-14:30<br />
Visas +27 31 304 1419<br />
The Visa Shop, 78 Joe Slovo Street<br />
AIDS Counselling +27 31 765 5886<br />
Recommended Taxi Services:<br />
Mozzie cabs +27 31 303 5787<br />
Bunny cabs, +27 31 332 2914<br />
Eagle Taxis +27 31 337 8333<br />
Ucabs +27 31 461 1846
Emergency Numbers<br />
Emergency Services +27 31 361 0000<br />
(Cellphone users: Dial 112.<br />
Opera<strong>to</strong>r will redirect call)<br />
Police Flying Squad 10111<br />
Ambulance Services<br />
Ambulance 10177<br />
City Med +27 31 309 1404/1178<br />
SA Red Cross +27 31 337 6522<br />
St John +27 31 305 6588<br />
Netcare +27 82 911<br />
0800 333 444<br />
Public Hospitals<br />
Adding<strong>to</strong>n +27 31 327 2000<br />
King Edward VIII +27 31 360 3111<br />
Cromp<strong>to</strong>n - Pine<strong>to</strong>wn +27 31 702 0777<br />
Chief Albert Luthuli +27 31 240 1000<br />
Private Hospitals<br />
Entabeni +27 31 204 1300<br />
St Augustine’s +27 31 268 5000<br />
Westville Hospital +27 31 265 0911<br />
Umhlanga Hospital +27 31 560 5500<br />
Kingsway Hospital +27 31 904 3600<br />
107
108<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong> Cred<strong>its</strong><br />
Welcome <strong>to</strong> <strong>Durban</strong><br />
Pages 1-8<br />
All images Peter Machen.<br />
His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
Pages 10-15<br />
All images courtesy of Allan Jackson, except<br />
Page 14 Statue of John Ross by Peter Machen<br />
Page 14 G<strong>and</strong>hi image from wikicommons.org.<br />
City Plans<br />
Pages 16-25<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 16 ICC courtesy of the ICC<br />
Page 17 N<strong>and</strong>i Drive courtesy of Morel<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 19 Courtesy of ACSA <strong>and</strong> Dube Trade Port<br />
Page 20 Galleria, courtesy of Galleria, Hammarsdale<br />
supplied by eThekwini.<br />
Page 22 Bridge City courtesy of Bridge City; au<strong>to</strong>motive<br />
cluster: Courtesy of eThekwini Municipality<br />
Page 23 The Value of <strong>Durban</strong>’s Open Spaces by Peter<br />
Bendheim<br />
Page 21 King’s Park Sports District supplied by eThekwini.<br />
Faith<br />
Pages 26-29<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 26 Hare Krishna by Val Adamson<br />
Page 27 Judaism by Lizette Gluch.<br />
Commerce<br />
Pages 30-35<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 31 Conferencing courtesy of the ICC<br />
Page 33 Gateway, Connectivity <strong>and</strong> Umhlanga Ridge by<br />
Peter Bendheim.<br />
Eating<br />
Pages 36-41<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 40 Roma Revolving Restaurant courtesy of Roma.<br />
Page 37 Head Markets <strong>and</strong> Mealies on the Street by Val<br />
Adamson.<br />
Building<br />
Pages 40-45<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 45 Moses Mabhida Stadium<br />
Page 45 Design Workshop : SA<br />
Page 46 King Shaka International airport<br />
Page 46 Rodney Choromanski Architects<br />
Page 47 Rodney Harber & Associates<br />
all supplied by the architects.<br />
Design<br />
Pages 48-53<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 49 Christian Mugnai<br />
Page 50 Mr Walker<br />
Page 51 Egg design<br />
Page 52 Disturbance <strong>and</strong> N<strong>and</strong>a Sooben<br />
all supplied by the designers.<br />
Writing<br />
Pages 54-57<br />
All images courtesy of the writers <strong>and</strong> their publishers.<br />
Art<br />
Pages 58-63<br />
All images courtesy of the artists, except<br />
Page 62 Picture of Michael McGarry by Suzy Bernstein<br />
Page 63 Art in Public Buildings by Peter Machen.
Music<br />
Pages 64-71<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 64 Busi Mhlongo by Rafs Mayet, courtesy of Neil<br />
Comfort<br />
Page 65 The South Jersey Pom-Poms courtesy of the<br />
b<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 65 Joseph Shabalala courtesy of Gallo Music<br />
Page 65 Richard Haslop by Harry Locke<br />
Page 66 The Arrows courtesy of the Arrows<br />
Page 67 Guy Buttery courtesy of the Famous Ideas<br />
Company, pic by Suzy Bernstein<br />
Page 67 Phuzekhemisi courtesy of Sony Records<br />
Page 68 Dominion courtesy of the b<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 68 Black Coffee courtesy of the b<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 68 Big Nuz courtesy of the b<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 69 DJ Tira courtesy of the b<strong>and</strong><br />
Page 69 Neli Shabalala courtesy of Gallo Records<br />
Page 69 Martin McHale courtesy of Martin McHale<br />
Page 70 Fruit&Veg by Justin McGee<br />
Page 70 The Fataars courtesy of the The Fataars<br />
Page 70 Nibs van der Spuy courtesy of Nibs van der Spuy<br />
Page 71 Phuzekhemisi courtesy of Sony Records.<br />
Dance<br />
Pages 72-75<br />
All images courtesy of Val Adamson, except<br />
Page 72 Siwela Sonke courtesy of Jay Pather<br />
Page 73 Jomba courtesy of the Centre for Creative Arts<br />
Page 74 Desire Davids courtesy of Desire Davids<br />
Page 74 Mlu Zondi courtesy of Famous Ideas Company,<br />
pic by Suzy Bernstein.<br />
Theatre<br />
Pages 76-79<br />
All images courtesy of the ac<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />
Film<br />
Pages 80-83<br />
All images courtesy of the filmmakers.<br />
Museums<br />
Pages 84-87<br />
All pho<strong>to</strong>s by Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 86 Phansi museum supplied by Phansi.<br />
Getting Out<br />
Pages 88-91<br />
All images supplied by Ethekwini.<br />
Sport<br />
Pages 92-95<br />
All images supplied by the sports people, except<br />
Page 92 courtesy of Independent Newspapers<br />
Page 83 Papwa Sewgolum from wikicommons.org<br />
Page 84 Penny Heyns courtesy of Omni Share Holdings<br />
Page 85 Jordy Smith courtesy of Luellen Smith, pic by<br />
Jeff Ayliffe<br />
Page 85 Moses Mabhida Stadium, supplied by eThekwini.<br />
Mysteries<br />
Pages 96-99<br />
All images Peter Machen, except<br />
Page 97 Hadeda – Wikipedia commons.<br />
Accomodation<br />
Pages 100-101<br />
All images Peter Machen.<br />
Governance<br />
Pages 102-103<br />
All images Peter Machen.<br />
Etcetera<br />
Pages 104-107<br />
All images Peter Machen.<br />
109