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Ethiopian Reporter - Amharic Version

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The <strong>Reporter</strong> | Saturday |April 30, 2011<br />

|21<br />

On the<br />

trails of a<br />

phantom hippo<br />

By arTem efimov<br />

Above: Tankwas (papyrus boats<br />

looking exactly like the ones I saw on<br />

pictures of books about ancient Egypt<br />

when I was a little boy)<br />

Lake Tana shore line the source<br />

of the Blue Nile<br />

I have never seen a hippo. Well, I have seen them on TV, of<br />

course, but never in the flesh. Not even in a zoo.<br />

So I came to Africa. I did realize that it’s actually quite a<br />

big continent, but I thought there was no big difference on<br />

where exactly to go when it comes to seeing a hippo, with<br />

a possible exception of the Sahara.<br />

In Ethiopia, it turned out that you cannot just meet a<br />

hippo while jogging in the morning. OK, I did realize it<br />

beforehand, too. But I was kind of hoping that as soon as<br />

I’m in Africa the hippos would be within reach without<br />

many difficulties. ‘Go to Lake Tana,’ they told me. ‘If<br />

you’re lucky, you’ll see some there.’ So I went to Bahr Dar.<br />

Russia is the biggest country in the world, so if somebody<br />

calls any journey within any country ‘painfully long’, we,<br />

the Russians, usually just laugh. I booked a bus ticket<br />

to Bahir Dar, laughing. I appeared on a departure point<br />

early in the morning, grinning. I kept smiling for some<br />

half an hour. ‘Long journey, hah,’ I thought. ‘I’ve done<br />

the Transsiberian trip; it’s over 9000 km, a whole week in<br />

a train! No journey is long enough to me after that! And<br />

there’re hippos in the end!’<br />

But then the bus left Addis, and the honking began. I<br />

wonder why drivers in Ethiopia honk so much. They honk<br />

at each other. They honk at pedestrians. They honk at<br />

animals. They honk at towns, villages, forests, road curves.<br />

www.ethiopianreporter.com<br />

They honk uphill and downhill. They honk with or without<br />

any worldly reason. Maybe they just like the sound? As for<br />

me, I’ve been driven mad with it after half an hour.<br />

Thankfully, the road wasn’t too bad, so we’ve honked all<br />

the way to Bahr Dar in just seven hours. I stepped out of<br />

the bus wondering which part of me was aching more -<br />

my head or my back. But there were hippos somewhere<br />

around!<br />

I rushed to Lake Tana. There was no shortage of people on<br />

the shore who were ready, for a decent payment, to take<br />

me to the source of the Blue Nile where I could hopefully<br />

see the beast I’ve been yearning to see for the past years.<br />

But they also spoke about the monasteries of Lake Tana<br />

with such an excitement that I couldn’t resist including<br />

some of them in a tour.<br />

I’ve managed to find a hotel that wasn’t too expensive and<br />

didn’t have too many mosquitoes. I spent rest of the day<br />

riding around on a rental bicycle. There were children who<br />

chased me screaming: ‘Ferenji! Ferenji!’ I stopped to have a<br />

break, and immediately they were right beside me. ‘Where<br />

are you from?’ they asked. ‘From Addis,’ I replied. They<br />

didn’t seem to believe me. ‘Really, I live there!’ I said. They<br />

smiled skeptically.<br />

ConT`d on page 20

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