Ethiopian Reporter - Amharic Version
Ethiopian Reporter - Amharic Version
Ethiopian Reporter - Amharic Version
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The <strong>Reporter</strong> | Saturday |April 30, 2011<br />
|21<br />
On the<br />
trails of a<br />
phantom hippo<br />
By arTem efimov<br />
Above: Tankwas (papyrus boats<br />
looking exactly like the ones I saw on<br />
pictures of books about ancient Egypt<br />
when I was a little boy)<br />
Lake Tana shore line the source<br />
of the Blue Nile<br />
I have never seen a hippo. Well, I have seen them on TV, of<br />
course, but never in the flesh. Not even in a zoo.<br />
So I came to Africa. I did realize that it’s actually quite a<br />
big continent, but I thought there was no big difference on<br />
where exactly to go when it comes to seeing a hippo, with<br />
a possible exception of the Sahara.<br />
In Ethiopia, it turned out that you cannot just meet a<br />
hippo while jogging in the morning. OK, I did realize it<br />
beforehand, too. But I was kind of hoping that as soon as<br />
I’m in Africa the hippos would be within reach without<br />
many difficulties. ‘Go to Lake Tana,’ they told me. ‘If<br />
you’re lucky, you’ll see some there.’ So I went to Bahr Dar.<br />
Russia is the biggest country in the world, so if somebody<br />
calls any journey within any country ‘painfully long’, we,<br />
the Russians, usually just laugh. I booked a bus ticket<br />
to Bahir Dar, laughing. I appeared on a departure point<br />
early in the morning, grinning. I kept smiling for some<br />
half an hour. ‘Long journey, hah,’ I thought. ‘I’ve done<br />
the Transsiberian trip; it’s over 9000 km, a whole week in<br />
a train! No journey is long enough to me after that! And<br />
there’re hippos in the end!’<br />
But then the bus left Addis, and the honking began. I<br />
wonder why drivers in Ethiopia honk so much. They honk<br />
at each other. They honk at pedestrians. They honk at<br />
animals. They honk at towns, villages, forests, road curves.<br />
www.ethiopianreporter.com<br />
They honk uphill and downhill. They honk with or without<br />
any worldly reason. Maybe they just like the sound? As for<br />
me, I’ve been driven mad with it after half an hour.<br />
Thankfully, the road wasn’t too bad, so we’ve honked all<br />
the way to Bahr Dar in just seven hours. I stepped out of<br />
the bus wondering which part of me was aching more -<br />
my head or my back. But there were hippos somewhere<br />
around!<br />
I rushed to Lake Tana. There was no shortage of people on<br />
the shore who were ready, for a decent payment, to take<br />
me to the source of the Blue Nile where I could hopefully<br />
see the beast I’ve been yearning to see for the past years.<br />
But they also spoke about the monasteries of Lake Tana<br />
with such an excitement that I couldn’t resist including<br />
some of them in a tour.<br />
I’ve managed to find a hotel that wasn’t too expensive and<br />
didn’t have too many mosquitoes. I spent rest of the day<br />
riding around on a rental bicycle. There were children who<br />
chased me screaming: ‘Ferenji! Ferenji!’ I stopped to have a<br />
break, and immediately they were right beside me. ‘Where<br />
are you from?’ they asked. ‘From Addis,’ I replied. They<br />
didn’t seem to believe me. ‘Really, I live there!’ I said. They<br />
smiled skeptically.<br />
ConT`d on page 20