Magazine 2008 - Südtirols Süden

PORTRAIT//
DR. JÜRGEN FINKBEINER
Business consultant from Stuttgart.
Residing in Baiersbronn in the Black Forest
region. Has been coming to South Tyrol
several times a year – since 1977.
WHY ALWAYS
SOUTH TYROL?
EDITORIAL
When my wife and I talk about where we would like to spend a few relaxing
days, we often think about South Tyrol. We look at things in a controversial
way, check out the one or two offers from Tui fly, talk to colleagues and then
make our decision: Let’s go to South Tyrol!
Shortly before we leave, I often get a funny feeling in my stomach and I
wonder, how often we actually have been in South Tyrol? Was it 35 or 36
times? And I ask myself whether it would have been a better idea to try out
a new place!
But the funny feeling quickly disappears when we arrive at the Brenner Pass
and, finally, drive into the South. In Spring, you already feel the summer,
and when you drive down in the summer, you clearly drive into a golden
autumn, particularly from September onwards. During springtime, when it
is still a little fresh, you feel the difference in temperature after each kilometre.
In autumn, the trees are very colourful and during the winter season,
it’s simply relaxing. While we drive southwards, we look forward to our first
espresso at the Waltherplatz, the great hiking trips, the skiing and, of course,
the chats with the locals, who have become our friends.
Once we arrive at our destination, we feel truly ’at home’. It really doesn’t
have so much to do with the fact, that we know our way around the area
and know some people here. We absolutely feel at home, because we love
the South Tyrolean lifestyle. We love the openness of the locals, their culture
and their language. This is what connects us to them. The old sayings are
true: ’The heart of a man is reached through his stomach.’ Naturally, we love
the varied gastronomic choice in this region. I only have to think about the
home-made cheese ‘knödel’ (dumplings) and the number of ‘favourite restaurants’,
which keeps increasing every year, not forgetting the wine bars.
Wherever we go, we are never alone. The South Tyroleans are everywhere
and they love the culinary delights of their region as much as we do, together
with a glass of wine for lunch, which seems to be a necessary addition to
every meal.
It’s simply lovely to be together with people, who – just like me – enjoy life.
MAGAZINE 2008
3

MAGAZINE
2008
14 38
6 MAGAZINE 2008
AS GOOD
AS MILAN
THREE DAYS IN BOZEN
SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL
11
SOUTH TYROL FOR BEGINNERS
A literary advance
20
THUMBS UP FOR THE MOUNTAIN RAILWAY!
On the road with a mountain bike
24
THE PEARLS OF THE ALPS
A fascinating experience
26
UNDERNEATH THE STARS
Trendy restaurants
33
KALTERN, WINE AND QUALITY
Down to the dot
44
MYSTERIES
The Bozen Code
MESSNER’S
MOUNTAIN WORLD
THE HERITAGE OF
MOUNTAINEERING
47
THE FARMER HAS GOT IT
Visiting the Red Rooster
50
WIHT FULL STEAM
Free route ahead with local railways
54
MAGIC WINTER
Ski, snow & more
56
A GOOD YEAR
Living amongst the grapes
60
EVENTS & HIGHLIGHTS
The most important events throughout the year

3
8
9
29
31
35
37
64
65
66
163
74
81
86
89
107
129
134
138
139
142
145
146
148
152
157
160
COLUMNS
EDITORIAL
ZOOM//South Tyrol for hikers
FOCUS//Picked up
TIDBITS//Culinary weeks
GOURMET//Our best
WINE//Highlights
BACCHUS//Excellent wines
CULTURE//Museums & churches
AGENDA//In & around South Tyrol
CONTACT//All addresses at a glance
GETTING THERE//Info
67 - 73
PACKAGES & OFFERS
Family & Kids//Cycling//Hiking//Wine//Wellness//
Golfing//Culture//Riding
CONTENT
ACCOMMODATION//WELCOME TO
BOLZANO BOZEN JENESIEN
TERLAN
ANDRIAN
EPPAN
KALTERN
TRAMIN
SOUTH TYROLEAN LOWLANDS
SALURN
CASTELFEDER
LEIFERS BRANZOLL PFATTEN
CAMPING//YOUTH HOSTELS
MÖLTEN
SARNTAL
RITTEN
ALDEIN RADEIN
TRUDNER HORN NATURE PARK
0’00”
reading time
for families
MAGAZINE
2008
YOUR THOUGHTS ARE IMPORTANT TO US!
Any criticism, suggestions, ideas, praise or reproach? Please let us know:
Tourismusverband Südtirols Süden, Pillhofstr. 1, I-39057 Frangart (Bozen), info@suedtirols-sueden.info
MAGAZINE 2008
7

ZOOM
| by Roswitha Mair
8 MAGAZINE 2008
SOUTH TYROL FOR HIKERS
More and more people discover hiking as a particularly refreshing
type of sport. The medical profession would say it
is a great elixir of life. Excited followers of the sport say it is
balm for the soul. For a good number of years now, sports
medicine has recommended hiking as a great type of sport
to keep healthy. South Tyrol offers an impressive variety of
landscapes, people, flora and fauna. A variety, which is best
experienced ‘on foot’: 18,000 km of marked hiking and mountain
paths enable visitors to discover the great outdoors and
cultural landscape close up.
BEST OF HIKING
In the South of Südtirol, a magic variety is present: you can
hike up to between 200 and 3,000 metres of altitude, enjoy
palm trees as much as Alpine pastures or get to know Alpine
tradition and the Mediterranean easy way of life. The German
magazine ‘outdoor’ awarded South Tyrol for the second year
in a row the second-best hiking region in Italy. With a further
seven hiking destinations and five outdoor equipment suppliers,
the area South of Südtirol is associated with the quality
association ‘Best of Hiking’. The international co-operation
creates new standards in the hiking tourism industry as such
and encourages people to get to know and enjoy hiking.
www.best-of-wandern.de
TEST CENTRE FOR OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
A ’Best of Hiking’ guest profits from a unique service through
which he can hire the most suitable shoes for demanding
terrain, large trekking rack-sacks for long tours or telescopic
carbon sticks. In the test centre of Weger Schuhe in St. Pauls/
Eppan, products by Lowa, Vaude, Carl Zeiss, Fritz Berger and
Euroschirm can be tested free of charge.
’HIKING GUESTHOUSE’ AT THE RITTEN
There are ten Rittner hotels, which have amalgamated in order
to meet the best requirements from hikers. Nomen est
omen. For this reason, the individual accommodation not
only matches the furnishings to the needs of the demanding
hiker, but the list of services provided reflects the support by
the owners, as well as the beauty of the high plateau in all its
facets. www.wanderwirte-ritten.com
PORTRAIT//
ROSWITHA MAIR
Born in Bozen, resides
in Eppan. Tourism
studies in Bruneck and
Venice. Since 2002
at the Tourist Board
South of Südtirol.
HIKING SHOES MADE TO MEASURE
There is nothing worse for the hiking spirit than having a
shoe that’s too tight. At the Trekking Fun Center at the Ritten
mountain, hiking shoes from different brands can be tested
free of charge. In addition, it is possible to have them made
to measure. After an exact foot analysis, a new shoe can be
adjusted to your individual needs. www.prantner.it
HIKING ROUTES ONLINE
With its hiking route project, the Alpine Association of South
Tyrol digitally records all 18,000 hiking and mountain paths
and puts them on the Internet. Descriptions, maps, altitude
diagrams, GPS data and stops along the route can be found
under trekking.suedtirol.info
EXCURSIONS WITHOUT LIMITS
HEIDI has found a number of hiking paths. She has tested
and described them, in particular, for people with motor impediments,
in wheelchairs, but also for families with small
children and older people. www.hotel.bz.it
HIKING LINKS
ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH TYROLEAN MOUNTAIN AND
SKI GUIDES
www.bergfuehrer-suedtirol.it
SOUTH TYROLEAN HIKING GUIDE
www.wanderfuehrer.it
ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH TYROL
www.alpenverein.it

PICKED UP
FOCUS
FIVEFINGERS
Walking on your bare feet strengthens your foot and body muscles, as well as promotes a correct positioning
of the toes. ‘Fivefingers’ by the South Tyrolean designer Robert Fliri protects your feet from
injuries. The toe-shoe is particularly suitable for outdoor leisure activities and is available in a number
of select mountain sport shops from € 80.
www.vibramfivefingers.com
FREDDI BANANI
Developed in South Tyrol by Robert Psenner, the frost-resistant banana can be grown in Europe. This is
where it derives its name: Freddi – Italian for freddo, meaning cold – Banani. Freddi Banani is an easycare
plant, particularly suitable for young people, who have not developed yet their green fingers and
manage only to grow cacti.
www.freddibanani.com
THANK YOU FOR SMOKING
The anti-smoking decree, which was imposed in the summer of 2005 does not drive restaurant owners
around the bend, but literally outside their own establishment. Nonetheless, there are a number of
restaurants and bars with a licence for smoking. If you do not want to abstain from ’smoking indoors’,
the South Tyrolean online restaurant guide might be able to help you.
www.suedtirol.info/gastroguide
GOOD STUFF FROM SOUTH TYROL
Whether you are looking for speck, wine, Schüttelbrot (local type of bread), jams, biological products
or natural cosmetics: hand-chosen South Tyrolean products and specialities from farmers and small
producers can be ordered online. Packed in South Tyrolean mountain hay, a piece of South Tyrol arrives
straight to your door step.
www.gutesaussuedtirol.com
TREHS – ENERGY FROM THE MOUNTAINS
The Sarn pine tree, locally called ‘mountain blessing’, is one of the oldest medical plants used in the
Sarntal. Even the Celts used its healing powers. Today, the precious oils are obtained according to old
recipes, whereby for every 1 kg of pure oil, 250 kg of pine needles are required. The oil with the characteristic
resinous and woody fragrance revives body, mind and soul. This product, to be found in every
household in the valley, promotes the circulation and has an invigorating effect. Analyses confirm a
particularly high natural purity and quality. Nature and Wellness on
www.trehs.com
TARZAN & JANE
The HETZ high-rope garden in Terlan is an adventure forest for all the family: from the age of 3 up to
99! Five routes of differing grades of difficulty lead you up to a height of 20 metres. A special course
was constructed for the 4-6 year olds – and for those who prefer to keep their feet to the ground, there
is a new bare foot course available.
www.xsund.it
MAGAZINE 2008
9

SOUTH TYROL
FOR BEGINNERS
| by Herbert Rosendorfer
SPECTACLE//Apple blossoms in April

PORTRAIT//
HERBERT ROSENDORFER
Born in 1934 in Gries near Bozen. Studied law in
Munich. Until 1997, judge in Bavaria. Since 1997,
he has lived in St. Michael/Eppan. Numerous
awards, such as the literature award of the City of
Munich in 2005. Rosendorfer is the author of an
extraordinary range of work; one of the most famous
being ‘The letters of the Chinese past’ (1985).
4’30”
There are holiday regions, which are mainly inhabited by
waiters, chefs and other descendants from companies within
the service industry and who – at the end of the season
– leave the region without hesitation after having counted
their profit. Only some of them stay a little longer in order to
close the hotels, drain off the lakes, fold the mountain panorama
together and put it all in a box, including some moth
balls. Well, this is not true for South Tyrol. Here, you certainly
meet lots of South Tyrolean citizens, who live here in and out
of season. This is the first thing, a participant of the ’South
Tyrol for beginners’ course must know.
Apart from that, the folding together of the Dolomite panorama
would prove to be somewhat difficult, not forgetting
that in South Tyrol, the holiday season is all year round. During
the winter, there are the ski guests; during springtime, nature
entices guests with its variety of flowers – particularly in
the South of Südtirol –which, by the way, produces the best
asparagus in the world. By the way, South Tyrolean citizens
find this hard to share with their guests. During the summer,
hikers enjoy the beautiful weather between the castles and
vineyards and forget about the inhospitable tundra from beyond
the main Alpine mountain range, the ’grey days of the
North’ (Goethe). In autumn you find a symphony of colours, a
brilliant sky, grapes, apples, wine…
MAGAZINE 2008
11

HIKING//Trudner Horn Nature Park CASTLE ENGLAR//Living like a king
A paradise without faults? Not, far from it. Even South Tyrol
has its problems, even if it is still the island of the blessed.
Italy’s reign over the country has not brought only disadvantages
if I may say so. The bi-lingual approach, or should
I say tri-lingual opens a door to the outside world, which
has brought a blessing in disguise to the formerly narrowminded
country. When the holidaymakers can find not only
‘vitello tonnato’ and ‘spaghetti carbonara’ beside ‘Kaiserschmarrn’
and ‘Tafelspitz’ in the many gastronomic places (as
well as the little pubs), this is a direct result of this new open
policy. The few negative side effects have no direct effect
on our guests and they don’t know about the political or atmospheric
points of view nor the climate or different things
which need to be handled with care.
It would be unfair towards other parts of South Tyrol, for
example the Vinschgau with its wild and grey beauty, the
aristocratic spa town of Meran or the slightly demonised
and legendary Schlern mountain to say, that the South of
Südtirol is the heart of this paradise. However, those being
introduced to South Tyrol must know that this part of the
planet is a true garden of Eden, not only because it is home
to the largest lake in the country (Lake Kaltern), from which
not – against malignant rumours – the same named wine is
won. The residents and winegrower prefer to use the more
labour-intensive method of pressing, fermenting and filling
the wine into bottles. This type of wine is extremely popular
with the South Tyrolean citizens and is sold to the holidaymakers
only for a small fee. Don’t get lost in the network of
12 MAGAZINE 2008
red and white wines! Simply enjoy the Lagrein, Pinot Nero,
Sauvignon and Gewürztraminer.
If the South Tyrol newcomer decides to hike between orchards,
vineyards and the not too distant mountain peaks of
the South of Südtirol, he/she must be careful and aware of the
numerous fortresses, castles and residences along the way,
which decorate the slopes and mountains. Sometimes, you
might see a person waving through the flower-covered oriel
windows. Don’t forget that the Roman and Gothic churches
are consecrated to saints, who hold their protecting hand
over our country. It is said, that even some Celtic, Rhaetian,
and Roman gods still live here and move in the traditions of
the country. The ‘Pfaunboden’ at the Mendel mountain range
takes its name from ’Faunorum Regio’, which translates into
‘the kingdom of fauns’. Often, these legendary figures can be
seen sitting on tractors and are nothing but harmless and
hard-working winegrowers.
The provincial capital is, of course, found in the South of
Südtirol: Bozen – about which many songs have been written.
The beautiful historic centre reaches from the colourful
fruit market, to the porticos from the Middle Ages and the
Laurin bar with its art nouveau frescoes, including a number
of topographical, historical examples. The lowlands around
Auer and Neumarkt are marked by centuries of merchants,
armies and pilgrims, who made their way from the North
towards the South. Neumarkt demonstrates more of the
southern aspects, which can be seen in its sedate porticos,

CRAFTS & ARTS//Sarn quill embroiderer
which more often protect the holidaymakers from the sun
than the rain and Goethe’s word about the southern air can
be seen to be true.
Once a South Tyrolean holidaymaker returns more often to
this place, he or she is automatically moved from the beginners’
class to advanced status. Besides (and despite) the
wine, the mountains, the speck and the sunshine, the wonderful
characteristics of this country are often reflected in
the artist’s eye.
DID YOU KNOW THAT
Mair is the most common surname in South Tyrol?
In 2006, 4,438 people bore this surname, followed by
Hofer (4,075 people), Pichler (3,507), Kofler (3,376)
and Gruber (2,901).
South Tyrol is a typical mountain country?
More than 80% of the country’s surface is situated
above an altitude of 1,000 metres. 40% is even above
2,000 metres. Around 42% of its surface is covered by
forest.
MOUNTAIN AIR & MORE
For kids
‘Bletterbach for Kids’ children’s afternoons at the
Geoparc Bletterbach and ‘NaturParkKids’ at the
Trudner Horn Nature Park: on the trail of dinosaurs,
stones, plants and animals, there are lots of
secrets to be discovered.
Fennberg
Fennberg, a suburb of Kurtatsch, is a true treasure
chest, which – besides having two demanding
climbing gardens – offers some giant trees, copper
smelting ovens from the Bronze Age and a bathing
lake. The founding father of the Kaiserjäger, Field
Marshall Lieutenant Franz Philipp Freiherr von
Fenner zu Fennberg was born here in 1759.
Trudner Horn Nature Park
From all the South Tyrolean nature parks, this
one is home to the most varied flora and sauna,
due to its sub-Mediterranean climate. The visiting
centre in Truden offers great insight into the
cultural and natural landscape and offers guided
natural-history theme hiking trips, as well as
special events.
www.provinz.bz.it/naturparke
Geoparc Bletterbach
The impressive canyon at the foot of the Weißhorn
mountain near Aldein is an adventure park, a place
to learn and a natural monument, all in one. On
the trails of dinosaurs, this unique canyon, its visitors’
centre, the forest teaching trail, as well as the
Geo path offers lots of insight into the development
of this planet and mankind.
www.bletterbach.info
Ritten mountain summer resort
More than 400 years ago, the Bozen citizens created
their very own summer resort on the Ritten
mountain. Today, the soft natural landscape and
its impressive panoramic views of the Alps and
the Dolomite range make the heart of every hiker
and family beat faster.
Sarntal – mountain fragrance
A valley of mountain farmers – original and
indigenous. The valley is surrounded by 140
peaks and is a paradise for outdoor freaks. In addition,
it is a goldmine of old traditions, the arts
and crafts. The Sarn dialect is a gem amongst the
many Tyrolean dialects.
MAGAZINE 2008
13

AS GOOD AS MILAN
THREE DAYS IN BOZEN
| by Adelheid Wanninger

IF YOU THINK ABOUT FASHION, DESIGN AND A LIFESTYLE METROPOLIS, THE
NAMES OF LONDON, PARIS AND MILAN COME QUICKLY TO YOUR MIND. TO STAY
THERE OR UNDERTAKE A SHOPPING SPREE – WILL COST YOU DEARLY. HERE IS
A TRUE ALTERNATIVE, STILL A SECRET TIP: BOZEN.

5’50”
For many centuries, Bozen has been a meeting place for
traders. This was one of the main aims of the town. It’s here,
where the North gets close to the South and where two
cultures meet instantaneously, that you can sense a certain
’something’ in the air. It inspires you to a new creation. The
chic style of this attractive shopping town naturally melts together
with trendy and innovative design. The steady South
Tyrolean culture is paired with Mediterranean easiness and
can be felt, seen and experienced in Bozen.
TUESDAY
Arrive in Bozen around midday. My address for the next 48
hours is Hotel Greif at the Waltherplatz – a wonderful art and
design hotel with a historic facade, including modern architecture
and all its comforts. My room is furnished with contemporary
art, a marble bath tub and a Jacuzzi … and I fall in
love with it. A quick change of clothes and up into the city!
The first trip leads me to the ’Fischbänke’ in the Dr.-Streiter-
Gasse. At Cobo’s, I take a glass of white wine and chat with
some people. Just the right start for a stroll through the city.
Passing Schönhuber Franchi: crockery and cutlery by Meissen,
Alessi, Robbe & Berking … and in the new sister shop
16 MAGAZINE 2008
BRUSCHI//400 square metres of design
Kokon, I find some vases and table linen. Incredibly beautiful!
Then I make my way towards the ’Lauben’. Here, I find one boutique
after the other: Esprit, Benetton, Sisley, Louisa Spagnolli,
Armani. I just can’t pass by the Rizzolli shop: shoes! The timehonoured
building from the 12th Century always hosted the
newest and best, including a hat and felt slipper department.
This mixture of tradition and the newest trends is truly wonderful.
It’s nearly the same as at Oberrauch Zitt, where the story of
the original Bozen Loden began more than 150 years ago. This
establishment is lead by the fifth generation now and has the
biggest display of Loden and traditional costume fashion in
South Tyrol. Knowing that it is important to see fashion as an
expression of an individual being, I visit the forth floor and its
exclusive clothing by famous brands and designers. The best of
women’s and gents’ fashion, such as Ermenegildo Zegna in the
gents’ custom tailor shop, the Luis Trenker trendy label or eccentric
bags by Zilla.
At Thaler’s, a beauty oasis stretching out on several floors, I allow
myself to be inspired by new fragrances before I make my
way to the fruit market. Nowhere else you have this choice of
fruit, vegetables and flowers – an extravagant play of colours, a

ZILLA//My bag is my castle
feast for the eyes. Only a few steps away – in the Leonardo-da-
Vinci-Straße – I find myself right in front of the brand-new boutique
Bruschi. How beautiful! At the entrance, the green marble
shines below the chandelier of Swarovski crystals. Now I understand
why this exclusive fashion house was crowned for its
design with the second place in the ‘Interior Design’ magazine
– worldwide! Every storey is a work of art in its own right, where
the customers find attractive fashion made from the most exquisite
materials, the pure lust for fineness and a special touch.
Names like Prada, Grifoni, Marras, as well as young innovative
designers guarantee it!
So much optical enjoyment requires a culinary highlight.
Therefore, I enjoy my evening meal outside the limits of Bozen
and drive to St. Michael to the ‘Zur Rose’ restaurant. Maitre de
cuisine Herbert Hintner is one of the deans of South Tyrolean
gourmet cuisine. Those who have had the privilege to sit at
his kitchen table (!) and try his pea cappuccino with mint and
gorgonzola, the lemon risotto with shrimps or the buttermilk
sorbet with sour cherries with some rose Muscat wine, have
experienced true culinary pleasures.
BOZEN & MORE
Museumcard
South Tyrolean country museum
You can get this card free of charge when you
purchase a family or adult ticket. All further entrance
fees are available with a 20% reduction – for 12
months. It has never been cheaper to see the famous
mummy ‘Ötzi’!
www.landesmuseen.it
Cultural time
Bozen is without doubt the cultural capital of South
Tyrol. People come from all over the country in order
to experience the local culture. The new cultural
door to South Tyrol shows what Bozen and South
Tyrol have to offer with regard to literature, music,
theatre, film, exhibitions or dance.
www.kultur.bz.it
Pure Design
In 2005, the stackable barstool MIURA made in
Auer was introduced to the market and since then,
has been presented with five international design
awards. It was also entered in the continuous collection
‘The new collection’ of the State Museum for
Applied Art/Design’ – the ‘Pinakothek of Modern
Times’ in Munich, as well as the MoMA, the Museum
of Modern Art in New York.
www.plank.it
Stylish
The worldwide renowned Bozen enterprise SELVA
with branches in the US and Dubai, is one of the
five largest furniture manufacturer in Italy – and
Europe’s largest hotel supplier of furniture. With an
eye on tradition and sufficient courage for innovation,
they produce about 300,000 individual pieces
of the highest quality each year.
www.selva.com
Extravagant
The Bozen artist Maria Puff-Gius combines design
with art and produces individual pieces of magnificent
poetry and sensibility. Refining it all with
crystals, glass pearls, mother-of-pearl and textiles,
these pieces of art are reflected in rose rings and nest
rings. Available at Palais Moirè near the fruit market
in Bozen. www.ringfinger.it
CLOSE UP//Tête-à-tête with Herbert Hintner
MAGAZINE 2008
17

WEDNESDAY
During breakfast, I decide to visit some of the designers, I
discovered yesterday. The Luis Trenker label with its cool mix
of traditional elements and trendy sports wear is the incarnation
of Alpine lifestyle. Loving fashion, the Klemera brothers
founded this fashion label twelve years ago. It knows no
limits with generational conflict. With the Basecamp line and
two collections annually, it speaks in a timeless but still contemporary
way to all ages and gives a positive feel for life.
It has proved successful: at the Ispovision 2006, five awards
were given to Luis Trenker. Side products such as jams, upholstery,
beauty articles and a specially produced CD carry
the spirit of this label into the world. ‘These are products of
the highest quality, coming from the South Tyrolean world,
with which we love to be connected – because we are proud
to call ourselves South Tyrolean citizens!’ declares Michi
Klemera. In Bozen, the label is presented by Oberrauch Zitt.
Several shops in Europe, as well as customers such as Arnold
Schwarzenegger, Thomas Gottschalk and Birgit Schrohwange
are witnesses to an unstoppable success.
Also original bags by Zilla have increasingly become the object
of shopping lust. ‘Zilla – my bag is my castle’ is the idea
18 MAGAZINE 2008
FRUIT MARKET//Good and fresh
of a young likeable architect called Sylvia Pichler. ‘When a
woman leaves her house, her handbag becomes like home
to her.’ She also designs ’mobile homes’ for extravagant ladies.
These are made of special materials such as air filters,
foot mats, silicone, rubber sponges and metal. Interesting
originals, designed and made – partly by hand! – in Bozen
… and available in selected shops worldwide.
The subsequent visit to the Thuniversum resembles diving
into the world of ceramics. The company was made famous
more than 50 years ago through its Bozner Engel (lit: Bozen
angels). Thun gifts, table ware and tiled stoves are highly
valued at home and abroad and entice more and more excited
lovers and collectors. ‘THUN figures are hand-painted
with love and care, so that each piece becomes an unmistakable
genuine original, says Peter Thun, the brother of the
acclaimed architect Matteo Thun. The Thuniversum with a
store and outlet, its extensive collection, a coffee shop and
the fascinating ’Panoptikum’ wants to bring pleasure and
invite you to enjoy everything with all your senses. This is
exactly what I want for tonight and, for this reason, I make
my way to the garden restaurant of the Parkhotel Laurin.
Below the canvas cover, I enjoy the sweet evening air and

SEIBSTOCK//Magnificent goldmine
the authentic cuisine, rich in ideas … which makes me lust
for a final cocktail at the legendary piano bar, with its Friday
motto ’All that jazz!’
THURSDAY
I just need to get a present or two to take home. In the South
Tyrolean workshops at the Lauben, I find traditional art crafts,
typical for this region and guaranteed ‘Made in South Tyrol’:
wood-carving, ceramics, hand-made jewellery and much
more. I must not forget to go to Seibstock-Delikatessen! The
love of culinary delights is the essence of the Seibstock family.
Selected South Tyrolean specialities, jams, sauces, pies,
wine, spices and teas from all over the world can be found in
their shop. Would you like some South Tyrolean speck or do
you prefer one of the many olive oils, vinegars or something
from the pasta department? Whatever I choose: all the products
are of extremely high quality, because only the best is
good enough for Seibstock customers.
My travel bag seems to be a little heavier than when I arrived.
The hotel staff is very helpful – as you would expect from
this type of establishment. Thank you … See you on my next
shopping trip!
ART & MORE
PORTRAIT//
ADELHEID WANNINGER
Freelance journalist, writer and photographer for
more than 15 years. Works for Porsche Club Magazine,
Münchner Merkur/OVB, Welt, spiegel-online,
marcellino’s. She has her own lifestyle and culinary
column in the echo-Rosenheim. Since her 16th
birthday, she has worked as a model and knows the
fashion and trend scenes quite well.
Manifesta 7
In 2008 the European Biennale for Contemporary
Art takes place for the first time in a region and
not a town. The venues are held in Franzensfeste,
Bozen, Trento and Rovereto. Besides the Biennale
of Venice and the Documenta in Kassel, this is one
of the most important large European exhibitions
of contemporary art.
www.manifesta7.it
Museion
Just in time for the Manifesta, the new Museum
for Modern and Contemporary Art will
be opened. The new building is a 54 metre long
cube at a height and width of 25 or 23 metres.
The transparent front side and end are actual shop
windows and projection surfaces towards the town
and the surrounding landscape.
www.museion.it
Hochfrangart art park
A cosmos in miniature, in creativity at random
reigns– this is Hochfrangart. Mankind, nature and
art in a new symbiosis. The ball which is visible
from afar is only one of more than 200 partly
breath-taking objects of the art created by the
patron Karl Nicolussi Leck. Further information
regarding guided tours at the tourist office Eppan.
MAGAZINE 2008
19

THUMBS UP
FOR THE
MOUNTAIN
RAILWAY
| by Alexandra Graf
4’50”
20 MAGAZINE 2008
PORTRAIT//
ALEXANDRA GRAF
She grew up in Herrsching at Lake Ammer
and now lives in Muntigl near Salzburg, Austria.
After having work for several years as an editor
for magazines and at a TV station, she travelled
around the world for nine long months. Since
then, she prefers freelance work.
I HEARD ABOUT SOME MOUNTAIN BIKERS WHO WERE NOT TOO PLEASED
TO RIDE STEADILY UPHILL. IF YOU ARE PART OF THIS GROUP, BOZEN IS
JUST THE PLACE FOR YOU, BECAUSE THE THREE MOUNTAINS OUTSIDE
THE TOWN CAN BE CONQUERED BY RAILWAY – NOT TO FORGET THE
NEARBY MENDELPASS.
Who says you must always be dripping of sweat? This is exactly what Josef Staffler thought.
In 1908, the Bozen gastronomy expert invented the first ever mountain suspension railway
for the transport of passengers … and all of this, because the local authorities did not
allow him to build a funicular railway. The aim of his invention was to make it easier for
visitors to go to Kohlern. In those days, people with money spent the hot summer months
in this particular area, when it was too hot in the valley. Today, the Kohlern railway is still
there to support people who do not want to get too worn out during their holidays …
and those who love cycle tours, of course. The railway personnel interact with them day-in
and day-out. They don’t even lift their heads as two mountain bikers ride past the valley
terminal.
THE TRAIN JUST LEFT: KOHLERN – BOZEN
Sergio and Giorgio know their way around. They ride over to the back entrance of the
railway terminal, pull off their helmets and rub their heads. This was the second descent in
a row. They have planned a third one before their afternoon ‘macchiato’. Particularly with
free-riders, the descent from Kohlern to Bozen is a real treat. The trip up by railway does
not cost a lot and on the route down, they hardly meet any hikers. The single trails through
the forest are as good as those in Canada.

The two bikers come to this place to do the downhill run.
Other people come for the wonderful views. The route can be
enjoyed in many ways: with the eye of a sportsman or with the
eye of some who appreciates beautiful scenery. For those who
love the latter, they more or less ignore the technical difficulties.
Instead, they concentrate on other details such as: meadows
full of flowers, blooming elderberry bushes, the chirping
of crickets or the fragrance of lime blossoms. Sergio and Giorgio
do not like that kind of stuff, although they see that the
cherries at the entrance to the Herrenkohlern village are not
yet fully ripe. Still, they are not interested in stopping to look at
the cherry tree for more than a minute. They pass farmhouse
gardens, the chapel of ‘Mary’s Ascention’, and when they arrive
at the old lime tree, they turn sharp left into the forest. This
is their territory. It’s not easy to stay in the saddle along the
route, but Sergio and Giorgio fully trust the suspension of their
bikes and the flexibility of their muscles. The root of a tree, a
few rocks, a jump – just don’t break too hard! Where other bikers
get off their bikes, Sergio and Giorgio are in their element.
This is how they are back at the valley terminal in absolutely
no time.
This is only one of three regions in Bozen: the classic greenbelt
recreation areas of the town are Ritten, Kohlern and Jenesien.
All of these are accessible through a mountain railway. These
are perfect places to visit for Sergio and Giorgio. They are not
22 MAGAZINE 2008
great friends of an uphill struggle. Instead, they enjoy a quick
ride through the town centre and stop at the bar. After that,
their next destination is another valley terminal!
SECOND DESTINATION: JENESIEN
Just like Kohlern, the old village of Jenesien is situated more
than 1,000 metres above sea level and offers wonderful views
of the Dolomite massifs such as the Latemar, the Rosengarten,
the Plattkofel, the Langkofel and the Sella. However, Jenesien
has much more variety to offer than just great views. Even
Giorgio and Sergio need to decide if they dare to undertake an
uphill struggle after all, in order to discover the high plateau
of the Salten mountain? Or do they prefer a good afternoon
tour through the canyon towards the Sarn Valley? A glance at
the sky helps to make up their minds. A cluster of grey clouds
moves in from afar. In the distance, they can see the rain clouds
nearly reaching down to the ground. The humidity during the
day turns into a thunderstorm. Sergio and Giorgio quickly decide
for the shortest variant – a direct downhill run to Bozen.
The guide book says that it is extremely steep. As they begin
to hear the thunder and feel the first rain drops, they begin
moving. No matter what, they’ll get wet anyway. The two kilometres
along the main road are conquered in no time. As they
reach the highest point of their tour, they look forward to a
downhill run of the special kind. The first part of the route goes
through the forest, then along a forest road and then it turns

SCHWARZKOPF//View over Lake Kaltern
into a single trail. Their heart beat increases. It is quite steep
but not too difficult. When they reach the look-out point
just above Glaning, Sergio hits the breaks. He would have
never expected such a great panoramic view. Just below
them lies Bozen. The sky is full of heavy rain clouds and the
sun is about to go down. In the distance, they see lightning.
Sergio and Giorgio seem to be nailed to the ground.
Then, the thunderstorm moves into full swing. The leaves
begin to shake and there are strong winds. Time to get on
their bikes again! The route runs along an old, partly steep
cart trail, which is no fun when it rains!
Shortly before they reach Bozen, the thunderstorm is in
full swing. There is thunder and lightning all around. It
pours down, but Sergio and Giorgio are happy when they
find a shelter. The routes with the technical, weather risks
are often the best, particularly, when you manage not to
get too wet. Thirty minutes later, the storm has passed.
When they sit down for their evening meal, the waiter
tells them that they can expect good weather the next
day. Their long-planned tour to Monte Roen at the Mendel
mountain, the frontier between South Tyrol and the
Trentino region awaits them. After all, Sergio and Giorgio
desperately wanted a tour to a summit! Nobody has to
know that there was a railway trip along the way.
BIKE & MORE
‘Überetsch’ cycling path
The cycling path follows the old ‘Überetsch’ railway
track and runs from Bozen to Kaltern. It can be a bit
steep in parts and runs through some dark tunnels, but
this guarantees lots of cycling fun for all the family!
The Salten mountain
The largest larch meadow in Europe derives its name
from the Latin term ‘saltus’ (forest). The oldest of the
numerous larch trees is supposed to be found at the
romantic shed called ‘Winterle’. The high plateau,
which reaches from Jenesien via Mölten to Vöran,
offers hikers, riders and cyclists a soft and cultivated
nature. Nowhere else you can find so many Hafling
horses outdoors during the summer.
Hire a bike
You do not need to bring your bike with you on
holiday. There is a much simpler way. Many types of
accommodation offer their guests bike hire free-ofcharge.
Or you hire a bike at one of the following
tourist board offices: Bozen, Eppan, Castelfeder,
Leifers, Altrei or Truden. What about being part of a
guided MTB or cycling tour?
Cycling – Pedalling hard
You can discover more than 600 km marked cycling
paths in the valley areas of South Tyrol. The Etschtal,
the largest orchard in Europe, is particularly wonderful
during its blossoming time from mid to end April.
Take care! … and use the South of Südtirol cycling
guide (German) with 41 detailed cycling and bike
tours. Available in all tourist offices from € 4.50.
Frisbee© Euro7
The electronic bike from Bozen is a winner! Equipped
with an innovative patent for pedal support, this
environmentally-friendly bike was chosen by many
public offices, banks and companies in all of Italy, as
well as a large number of private users as the preferred
means of transport through the town and in local
traffic. www.frisbee.eu
MAGAZINE 2008
23

THE PEARLS OF THE ALPS
A FASCINATING EXPERIENCE
| by Beatrix Unterhofer
2’55”
Never mind whether you are at a presentation at the Milan
Scala or with a small group in a privately owned wine cellar:
the South Tyrolean sparkling wine producers will convince
you with their true, exciting and of course refreshing pearls
from the Alps.
A number of years ago, the legendary Sebastian Stocker, a cellar
master from the Terlan winery, breathed new life into the
South Tyrolean sparking wine production. Today the association
of South Tyrolean sparkling wine producers, of which six
producers conform to the classic method, plays a strong role
in the success of their niche products. The grapes are cultivated
at an altitude of 600 to 1,100 metres above sea level.
The producers make altogether more than 180,000 bottles of
South Tyrolean sparkling wine a year.
The largest member, Arunda-Vivaldi in Mölten, which lies at
an altitude of 1,200 metres and is, therefore, the highest situated
sparkling wine producer in Europe, produces around
70,000 bottles and is followed by Lorenz Martini in Girlan,
known for its ’Comitissa’, which is produced from Pinot Bianco
and Chardonnay grapes and must be stored for three years
on yeast. One of the most traditional wine-growing estates
is without doubt the Haderburg winery in Salurn, founded in
24 MAGAZINE 2008
1977, which has specialised in bio-dynamic production. There
is also the St. Pauls winery, which amalgamated in July 2005
with the traditional sparkling wine cellars Kössler, as well as
the Von Braunbach winery in Terlan and the Kettmeir winery
in Kaltern. These are also part of the association. Each one of
these six companies exists on its own with individually, characterised
and typical products. Together, however, they conquer
new wine connoisseurs and wine lovers.
IT PRICKLES LIKE WATCHING
A FOOTBALL GAME LIVE
’… enjoy it in little sips’, is what the association president Josef
Reiterer encourages his often lively audience at wine tasting
events. If anyone knows it, he should, given he has worked
in the production of sparkling wine for 37 years. Professional,
disciplined, very eloquent, but still charming and easy-going,
’Reiterer Sepp’ runs the show. The players of the sparkling
wine football team are headed by the team captain Reiterer
– sporty, elegant and defined:
Luis Ochsenreiter is our forward. In 1976 he let it known that
he could secure the future of his winery through the production
of top sparkling wine. His strength and flexibility encouraged
him to concentrate on the production of sparkling wine.

PORTRAIT//
BEATRIX UNTERHOFER
Dr. phil., publisher, daughter of restaurant
owner in Ritten: studied the German language
and literature and publishing in Vienna. Since
1982, freelance writer with several media
companies nationally and internationally.
His most successful move was when he made the ‘Hausmannhof’
wine, which ripens for more than 10 years on yeast in a
cool cave just above his residence. This wine brings him excellent
results.
In the midfield, he has Lorenz Martini and Hannes Kleon working
for him. Lorenz Martini is a creative wine cellar master and
works at the famous Niedermayr winery in Girlan. He also
works in the sparkling wine production. The basic wines he
uses come from wineries around the mountains. His expertise
is reflected in his sparkling wine called ‘Comitissa Riserva’.
The young Hannes Kleon from Siebeneich very effectively
supports the right-hand side of the midfield. Everything he
knows, he has learnt from his father, who was famous in the
South Tyrolean wine production world. His strength as an allrounder
is well known and most impressive for his clientele in
the gastronomy sector.
As a young and talented wine cellar master in St. Pauls, Wolfgang
Tratter protects the back of the team, through a wide variety
of excellent wines, including his sparkling wine ’Noblesse’.
He is very engaged, concentrated and has an impressive
know-how, which guides the company through any attack by
the competition. Kettmeir, the most recent player of the team,
certainly will be good for some surprise on the field.
CULTURAL PEARLS & MORE
Knights, squires & Robin Hood
On the adventurous Eppan three-fortress-hiking trip,
all large and small Robins can prove their accuracy in
a Middle Age archery course. You can also examine
two wonderful fortresses! For further information,
please contact the Eppan tourist office.
On the trail of the Romans
The Via Claudia Augusta runs from Donauwörth
(Germany) to Venice and connects people, cultures
and time. The Roman emperor’s road can be travelled
by post coach, by foot or even better using a bicycle.
The ‘Via Claudia Augusta cycling guide– from the
Danube river to the Adriatic Sea’ can be ordered at
www.esterbauer.com; www.viaclaudia.org
Stairway to heaven
Pride fortresses and magnificent castles, colourful
church frescos and individual, quiet chapels, picturesque
villages and towns in a number of different
cultural landscapes, entice you to use the ‘stairway to
heaven’, the middle Ages in the heart of the Alps. The
South of Südtirol has two pearls from the Romanesque:
the St. Jacob chapel in Kastelaz near Tramin
and the fortress chapel of Castle Hocheppan in Missian/Eppan.
www.stairwaytoheaven.info
DID YOU KNOW, THAT
Alois Lageder found a way to combine art and wine?
The president of the Museion has a variety of art
works from different artists, installed at his wine
estate in ’Ansitz Löwengang’. Only a short while ago,
he decided to use wine labels showing contemporary
artists on his classic wine bottles.
the Fennberg is the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in
Europe?
From the grapes, which are harvested at about 1,050
metres above sea level, they produce the wine ‘Feldmarschall
von Fenner’.
Arunda-Vivaldi, Josef Reiterer, www.arundavivaldi.it
Haderburg, Luis Ochsenreiter, www.haderburg.it
Kellerei St. Pauls, www.kellereistpauls.com
Comitissa Lorenz Martini, Girlan
Von Braunbach, www.braunbach.it
Kettmeir, www.kettmeir.com
MAGAZINE 2008
25

UNDER-
NEATH
THE STARS
TRENDY
RESTAURANTS
| by Meike Mai
6’05”
26 MAGAZINE 2008
PORTRAIT//
MEIKE MAI
The journalist lives in Munich and has
written for the FAZ Sunday paper, the
Focus, as well as the Gong Magazine.
A GOOD SNACK WITH SOME SPECK AND
‘SCHÜTTELBROT’ (TYPICAL LOCAL BREAD),
SOME STRONG ALPINE CHEESE AND A GLASS
OF WINE. WHEN HOLIDAYMAKERS THINK
ABOUT SOUTH TYROLEAN SPECIALITIES, THEY
OFTEN THINK ABOUT A TYPICAL SNACK WITH
BREAD AND SPECK. NONETHELESS, THE
REGION IS POPULAR FOR CONNOISSEURS OF
GOURMET FOOD.
Ambience
Eating out
Wine
Flirt factor
VIP factor
FISCHBÄNKE
A typical evening starts with a South Tyrolean ’aperitivo’, in
Bozen often at the ’Fischbänke’, where many years ago the
market women offered their fish for sale. Today you will find
Rino Zullo in his local, with a cult status called ’Cobo’. After
New York and Rome, the painter opened the place called ‘Fischbänke’
in Bozen. Here, people sit around tables with marble
tops to discuss and chat about nearly everything. There is
such an easy-going atmosphere, that you could easily think
you are in London or Paris, if there would not be the wooden
signs hand-painted by Cobo, which tell you to relax and enjoy
yourself. The ice cubes move around in a glass of elderberry
and the red glimmering ’Veneziano’ tries to out-glow
the evening sun. No stress! Here comes a final tip before you
leave this oasis hidden behind some oleander bushes: don’t
go without trying a ‘bruschetta’. They must surely be the biggest
and best in South Tyrol!
Fischbänke
Bozen
Mid April to mid October

KÜRBISHOF
1,200 metres above sea level. The drive up is on steep, hairpin
bends and it’s hidden behind the last corner somewhere
in South Tyrol. Hartmann Varesco could not have chosen a
more secluded place. Nonetheless, Altrei is his home town
and a pub/restaurant is the dream of a lifetime. Even when
he was only eleven years old, Veresco cleared the tables and
washed glasses. In 2004, he decided to renovate the family
farmhouse, but he had already chosen every single wooden
door for his restaurant. He renovated the old ovens and
mixed some old family recipes with modern slow-food cuisine.
In this way, his granny’s home-made dandelion syrup
develops into a soft-melting dandelion parfait. His wife Sara
comes from the Ligurian region and uses water turnips to
bake a wonderful vegetable strudel. Vegetables and herbs
come from their own garden and all juices are home-made.
The delicacies of the ‘Kürbishof’ are the ideal synopsis of Italian
and South Tyrolean cuisine, due to Sara’s influence. Even
spoilt Milanese and Romans fully agree with this. Their restaurant
seats 30 people. You better not forget to book a table!
Kürbishof
Altrei
www.kuerbishof.it
JOHNSON & DIPOLI
’I am the wine menu’, says Vincenzo De Gasperi self-consciously.
And indeed, it’s true. VIPs such as Mario Adorf, as
well as wine connoisseurs from all over the world appreciate
the council of the wine master who has a choice of nearly
300 different wines at the ’Johnson & Dipoli’. The wine bar is
full of tradition. He selects every wine personally. His fine and
stylish wine bar under the Middle Age Porticos in Neumarkt
is a restaurant and wholesale place alike. Regular guests are
greeted with a kiss on the cheek. The young maitre de cuisine,
Josef Affenzeller from Linz, entices his guests with fine
Mediterranean cuisine. When you drive along the famous
South Tyrolean wine road, it really is a must to stop at ‘Johnson
& Dipoli’. Don’t forget: it’s better to ask for the price before
you order.
Johnson & Dipoli
Neumarkt
Open all week
MAGAZINE 2008
27

ZUM HIRSCHEN
Neon antlers above the entrance welcome visitors. The ancient
name ‘Zum Hirschen’ sets the history for this restaurant.
In 2004, Maximilian Costa and his wife Katrin took over the
traditional Vilpian pub/restaurant and renovated it throughout.
Today, the interior is funny and basic: the cutlery is made
from a tin bucket, the centre-piece is rubber boots. On a
slate, you find nine different dishes: three antipasti, three
starters, three main meals and a ’Nachtisch’ (lit: dessert). The
dishes are more refined Mediterranean than strong South
Tyrolean. There is fish carpaccio, radicchio risotto, and the
favourite dessert is crème brûlée. The ‘Hirschen’ is one of the
most popular restaurants for South Tyrolean’s youth, but not
only. Ladies meet up at the long wooden bench at the bar to
have an evening with ‘no men allowed’, and you find many
neighbours and friends sitting at the remaining tables. It is
truly a phenomenon how the Costas combine the new with
the old!
Zum Hirschen
Vilpian/Terlan
www.zumhirschen.net
28 MAGAZINE 2008
PILLHOF
She is the uncrowned queen of South Tyrolean gastronomy:
Kathrin Oberhofer. The ‘Stroblhof’ wine bar, which was
opened by the tiny 21-year old live wire, was buzzing every
week-end. About four years ago, she opened the Pillhof
restaurant in Frangart. In a shelf unit, which reaches up to
the ceiling, you can find hundreds of bottles filled with the
best wines from South Tyrol. Kathrin Oberhofer personally
pours out her treasures. She has changed her bar bench into
an inviting, room-filling table. All around it, you find groups
of business people, friends and all those who are standing,
waiting for a table! By the way: it is ’in’ to be seen at the Pillhof
– particularly around lunchtime. Even some South Tyrolean
VIPs enjoy a fine tête-à-tête in this place. The smart business
women reserves a table for them, from where they can see
everything going on inside, but not necessarily seen by everyone,
thanks to the architecture of the place.
Ansitz Pillhof
Frangart/Eppan
www.pillhof.com

BRAUNWIRT
It is true! The Sarn Valley is not necessarily known for its
haute cuisine. In the most traditional of all South Tyrolean
valleys, where farmers meet up as they did centuries ago to
enjoy a spleen soup at the local pub after Sunday morning
mass. Therefore, it was a brave thing for Gottfried and Petra
Messner to open their luxury restaurant in a place as particular
as Sarnthein. To everyone’s surprise, the ‘Braunwirt’ is
quite popular amongst the Sarn Valley locals. With its chairs
covered in white leather, table covers made from satin-brocade,
modern art on the walls – in this ambience, the Sarn
Valley farmers forget about their own habits and are ready
to try something new. The most popular thing is the menu:
14 courses, a mini portion of every dish in the house. It takes
at least two or three hours to make your way through this
culinary journey. The maitre de cuisine Gottfried Messner
loves to include some real Sarn Valley dishes in this expedition:
Schlutzkrapfen, for example. This is a half-moon shaped
ravioli-like pasta. You just have to try it!
Braunwirt
Sarnthein
www.braunwirt.it
CULINARIUM & MORE
On an Alpine pasture
… there is no sin (they say)! For this reason, there
is nothing wrong when your kids just get up in the
middle of dinner and run around the hut or walk
across to the animals of the petting zoo. Also: you
can stop at one of the numerous mountain Alpine
huts, enjoy some Tyrolean speciality … and let
your children run around.
Grey cheese
The Italian delicatessen for slow food promoted
grey cheese to a peerage in 2005. A low-fat sour
cream cheese with no more than 2% fat content,
rose to the level of a ‘Presidio’ product. This makes
it part of the 200 Italian food items, which are particularly
valuable, but threatened by extinction.
TITBIT//
CULINARY WEEKS
Culinary Speciality Weeks
in Jenesien, beginning to mid April
Enjoy your meal! Regional specialities in the city
of 100 dialects in Bozen in April
Asparagus Weeks in the Asparagus Triangle
Terlan, Vilpian, Siebeneich in April/May
Sarntal for Connoisseurs
in six different Gourmet restaurants, in May
‘Gewürztraminer Kuchl’ in Tramin, from 16th to
25th May
Gastronomic Night Journeys with the Ritten railway,
from May to August at the Ritten mountain
‘Sarnar Morgreti Essn’
in six Sarn restaurants, from 4th to 13th July
October Wine Pleasure in Tramin, during the month
of October
Gastronomic Weeks in Kaltern, in October/November
Culinary Weeks in Mölten, in November
DID YOU KNOW THAT
the pizza can be bought in the Montan pizzeria at
Castle Enn?
The ‘pizzaiolo’ received an award at the Olympic Games
of the Pizza Bakers in 2007, where all in all more than
600 participants from 40 countries were listed. The title
of the royal discipline is called ‘pizza classica’.
the Altrei coffee bean has nothing to do with either
coffee nor a bean?
The blue lupina is part of the family of pulses. Rediscovered
only a short while ago, about 250 kg was
used to create Altrei coffee.
MAGAZINE 2008
29

ZUM LUSTIGEN KROKODIL
Stephan Florian just does not want to give away where he
got the name for this cult pub. The only thing we get out of
him is that ‘Das lustige Krokodil’ (lit. the cheerful crocodile)
offers some karaoke in the evening. Since its opening about
three years ago, the long coffee shop with its 1950s charm
has become extremely popular. Today, you find not only artists,
architects and regular guests coming from Kaltern for a
glass of wine, but also VIPs from the region. Again, Florian
does not want to tell us who they are. Of course, not! With his
know-how and his attitude, he truly has created a wonderful
‘local’ in the lovely wine town of Kaltern.
Zum lustigen Krokodil
Kaltern
SAT afternoon,
SUN closed
30 MAGAZINE 2008
HOPFEN & CO.
The unique ’Hopfen & Co’ is a welcome alternative in the wine
paradise of South Tyrol. In the Bozen pub, the ‘barley juice’ (beer)
comes directly from the cellar to the tap. There are as many people
at the bar bench as there are at the front door. One thing
is absolutely clear: if you are looking for a good pub in South
Tyrol, come to the ‘Hopfen & Co’ and look no further. In the staircase,
you will find many signs from international breweries, the
bronze-coloured brewing pot reflects an unexpected light into
the room and the menu promises good food, some cooked
with beer: brewery master soup, barley pasta, beer dumplings
and home-made beer sorbet. It is said that some Italians turned
away from their beloved wine after having drank a glass of the
wonderful barley beer. The guests are multi-national and in
the evening, tend to be mainly young. No wonder. The mile
between the fruit market and the old city wall has become the
place to be over the past few years. Young people take a seat at
the covered fruit stands and enjoy the South Tyrolean starry sky,
and together with it some culinary highlights along the way.
Hopfen & Co.
Bozen
www.boznerbier.it

Whether you are in a renowned pub with stars, an award winning
restaurant, a fine gourmet or aristocratic castle restaurant,
a farming pub with tradition, an inviting pizzeria, a simple but
unique snack bar, a mountain hut or a similar place: the South of
Südtirol always has something to offer you. This is confirmed by
important restaurant and gourmet guides, which present diff ferent types of awards each year to gastronomy locations in the
South of Südtirol.
Edition 2007
Guida del
L‘Espresso
OUR BEST
Osterie d‘Italia 2007/2008
Gasthaus Weißes Rössl Bozen *
Gasthaus Hopfen & Co. Bozen *
Gasthof Kohlern Bozen *
Gasthof Unterweg Jenesien *
Restaurant Schwarzer Adler Andrian *
Buschenschank Santlhof Kurtatsch *
Gasthof Fichtenhof Salurn *
Gasthof Dorfnerhof Montan
Gasthof Tschurtsch Auer *
Gasthaus Patscheiderhof Ritten *
Gasthof Signaterhof Ritten *
Gasthaus Kürbishof Altrei *
Gault Millau
Südtirol
Gambero
Rosso
Michelin
Guida Rossa
GOURMET
Veronelli
Gasthof Gutmann Bozen 12,5/20
Gasthaus Haselburg Bozen 12,5/20
Gasthaus Hopfen & Co. Bozen 12,5/20
Restaurant Hostaria Argentieri Bozen 13/20 12,5/20
Restaurant Van Gogh Mondschein Bozen 13/20 13/20
Gasthof Kohlern Bozen 13/20 86/100
Restaurant Laurin Belle Epoque Bozen 14/20 14/20 80/100 84/100
Restaurant Vögele Bozen 13/20 12,5/20 76/100
Restaurant Zur Kaiserkron Bozen mentioned mentioned 75/100
Gasthaus Weißes Rössl Bozen
Bistro Reinisch Bozen mentioned
Gasthof Patauner Terlan
Restaurant Zum Hirschen Terlan 13,5/20
Landgasthof Bad Turmbach Eppan 84/100
Restaurant Marklhof Eppan 13/20
Restaurant Zur Rose Eppan 16,5/20 16/20 85/100
Restaurant Ansitz Pillhof Eppan pp erwähnt
Restaurant Castel Ringberg g g Kaltern 14/20 14/20 78/100 88/100
Restaurant Ritterhof Kaltern
Restaurant Siegi‘s g Kaltern mentioned 12/20
Restaurant Aehrental Kaltern 82/100
Gasthaus Zur Rose Kurtatsch 13,5/20 13/20 78/100
Restaurant Johnson & Dipoli p Neumarkt mentioned
Restaurant Auener Hof Sarntal 14,5/20 14/20 75/100 88/100
Restaurant Bad Schörgau g Sarntal 14/20 13/20 81/100 85/100
Restaurant Braunwirt Sarntal mentioned
Gasthof Ansitz Kematen Ritten
Gasthaus Patscheiderhof Ritten 12,5/20 14/20 76/100
Restaurant Holzner Ritten 14/20
Gasthaus Signaterhof Ritten 13/20
Restaurant Zirmerhof Radein 13/20 83/100
Restaurant Krone Aldein 14,5/20 14/20 77/100 86/100
Restaurant Ploner Aldein 14/20 14/20 80/100
Restaurant Zur Mühle Truden 13/20
Gasthaus Kürbishof Altrei mentioned
MAGAZINE 2008
31

KALTERN,
WINE AND QUALITY
DOWN TO THE DOT
32 MAGAZINE 2008
| by Alfred Komarek

5’35”
PORTRAIT//
ALFRED KOMAREK
Writes essays, feature articles, stories,
non-fiction work, children’s books, novels, film
scripts. In 1998, won the ‘Glauser’ prize for the
best German-speaking thriller. In 2002, gained
a ’Romy’ for the best film script. All novels were
filmed for TV.
I knew Kaltern from years ago. In the early 50s, my father was
very happy about what he called the ‘red wine lake’ (Lake
Kaltern), which was big enough for low prices. Every time my
dad organised a game of chess with a friend, it was my job
to go and buy a bottle of red wine: Kalterersee. Did any other
type of red wine ever exist? As I grew up, I began to understand
that this wine was not found in the same quantities
anymore on the shelves and that the now rare red wine had
increased in price. Nonetheless, the wine seemed in some
way to match my careless character at that time … and I was
prepared to pay more.
MAGAZINE 2008
33

ARCHITECTURE//Manincor wine-growing estate WEIN.WEG//Vineyard names
WEIN.KALTERN
But one day, Kaltern became more for me than just wine – it
turned into a part of South Tyrol, a wine village, a landscape,
a living space. I was asked to write a book for the wein.kaltern
project with the intriguing title ’Weinlesen’, which has a double-meaning
in German: grape harvest and understanding
wine. I had my prejudices. A nearly inflated popular brand,
together with tourism. A lethal combination for any village
– or not?
In a subdued way, Kaltern has stayed true to itself. Fame, time
and money are also important things in this part of the world,
but the village is no push-over. One thing is clear: tradition
is only valued, if it is also useful for the future. Perseverance
only makes sense, if it allows space for change. The mightiest,
sensual and most stable power in the country lies within
the wine – in times gone by, as well as today. For this reason,
the village appearance of the historic Kaltern has grown and
developed. It has formed and stabilised the emotional landscape
of its inhabitants. The wine village of Kaltern was never
one-layered, poor and forcibly modest. This can be witnessed
by the grand houses of farmers, citizens and Lords, decorated
with marble-framed doors and windows, free-standing
staircases, verandas, oriels, towers and balconies above quiet
courtyards. Wine-growing estates were as fast growing as
the grapes on the vine, and once a new building was erected,
modern architecture found its way onto the scene. All the
34 MAGAZINE 2008
work of man, the village, vineyards and the orchards find
their place in the landscape, which continues the dialogue
between clear outlines and playful softness. Hilly vineyards
leading into a widening hollow are framed by a mountain
range with forests and darkness juts out of rocky walls. This
variety reflects different grounds, which – combined with climatic
conditions – make up the rich potential of this wine
cultivation area. Today, the local Kalterersee wine is still of
upmost importance. Nonetheless, there are also other types
of red wine cultivated now, as well as excellent white wines
in the higher regions.
THE PRINCIPLE
There are many good reasons to sit back and feel satisfied.
When I got to know more about the wein.kaltern project (in
theory), I understood quickly that it was the local identity
which was critical. It was necessary to accept the things that
were reliable and successful and for them to find their own
strategies instead of just adjusting to anything good in a
half-hearted way. It was not possible to impose an indifferent
but great marketing plan onto a living, structured, individual
habit that had been personalised. The principle was: knowledgeable
love of wine, extended through the conscious and
sensual experience of the wine country, a moderate but complete
presence of Kaltern as the wine village of South Tyrol.
No pretty advertising, no hearty ’welcome’ and ’good-bye’,

WINE DAYS//A village enjoys wine-tasting
no schoolmasterly wine teaching trail. Where communication
is in place, all of this happens, but without being forced,
or having no quality and just catchy slogans. When you come
to Kaltern and when you leave again, you are welcomed in
a sound kind of way: a monolith of red porphyry and white
limestone carry the inscription: wein.kaltern.
HOUSE OF WINE PUNKT
In the centre of the village, at the market square, the house of
wine PUNKT sums it all up: No questions are left open and no
glass is empty. The Vienna architect Hermann Czech has honoured
this listed historic building, re-designed old structures
and exposed hidden treasures, before – as an architect – he
carefully tackled the various issue. At the wine bar, people
present, communicate and serve. You get wine, information,
an enjoyable evening and whatever else you are looking for.
It’s a place where not only holidaymakers come, but also the
locals and the key people in the wine economy of Kaltern; it’s
the place where the wein.kaltern project can be fathomed
in all its facets and where it creates a type of curiosity with
your own experiences. The dialogue between old treasures
and new architecture is also demonstrated in other places
all around Kaltern – in exciting and attractive ways. The new
cellar of the traditional winery Manincor connects the surrounding
landscape with simple, but complex structures,
which clearly demand functionality in its forms and charac-
WINE & MORE
Water rats
What about racing in a pedal boat – parents vs. kids?
Pedal boats are available at Lake Kaltern, where you
can enjoy friendly water temperatures in May. At the
Large Montiggl Lake, the kids can enjoy the longest
water slide in South Tyrol!
THEME PATHS//ALL ABOUT WINE
Kurtatsch Wine Teaching Trail
The wine teaching trail leads for 1.5 km through a
closed vineyard. Visitors get to learn about the ‘road
of life’ of wine itself, as it takes you through planting
the ‘rasel’ to wine tasting.
Wine Teaching Trail in Girlan
In co-operation with the Laimburg School, an
interesting wine teaching trail was established, which
explains different cultivation methods, all about the
local grapes, as well as thousands of years of wine
tradition.
WINE//HIGHLIGHTS
Wine excursion day in Kaltern on 27th April
Bozen Wine tasting
at Castle Maretsch in Bozen from 15th to 17th May
South Tyrolean Pinot Nero Days
in Montan and Neumarkt on 22nd and 23rd May
Gewürztraminer festivities in Tramin mid of July
Wine Culture Weeks
in St. Pauls/Eppan from 24th July to 5th August
Lorenzi Night
in Bozen and Andrian on 10th August
Kaltern Wine Days
on 4th and 5th September
Tramin Wine Street
in Tramin on 18th October
Lowlands Wine Tasting Days
in Auer end of October
South Tyrolean Wine Road
The South Tyrolean Wine Road was established in
1964 and is the oldest in Italy. The following villages
are found along the road: Nals, Andrian, Terlan,
Bozen, Eppan, Kaltern, Tramin, Kurtatsch, Margreid,
Kurtinig, Salurn, Neumarkt, Auer, Montan, Pfatten.
www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it
Vino in festa: Wine Road Weeks
For a full month, from 15th May to 14th June 2008,
fifteen wine villages along the South Tyrolean Wine
Road becomes a venue for a special kind of event.
Starting with Bozen wine, the South Tyrolean Wine
Road invites you to some high-class events and
highlights all around the subject of wine. The core of
numerous events is about the country & its people,
the wonderful vineyards, the deep wine cellars and,
of course, the wine itself. The crowning event of the
Wine Road Weeks: the Night of the Wine Cellars on
14th June.
MAGAZINE 2008
35

ter. Indeed, the wine centre of the Kaltern winery – one of the
most important quality businesses in Italy – presents the full
elk of modern, contemporary architecture.
WEIN.WEG
Back to the market square. At the house of wine PUNKT, the
routes of the wein.weg, the Kaltern wine trail, merge together.
In this way, the vineyards towards the lake and up
into the heights open up towards the village. Also at this
point, wein.kaltern proves it is a taciturn, but still a meaningful
concept. Nothing overloads the pure joy of walking,
the constant change of impressions, sounds, fragrances, the
soft rhythm of the valley and hills. But every now and then,
steps of white limestone with metal letters and a red point of
porphyry report about the sixty Rhaetian or Roman names
of the individual vineyards: Keil and Ölleiten, Vial and Prunar,
Puntara and Palurisch, Salt and Plantatitsch. At particularly
beautiful points in the landscape, there are some look-out
points and resting places, which offer information about
how to grow wine and the meaning of certain things. Finally,
the path turns back to the village of Kaltern, to the centre
or one of the seven suburbs, all of them close to the vineyards.
Now it’s time to taste the wine of the vineyards you
just walked through, from a Riedel glass of course, designed
just for wein.kaltern, in order to consequently carry on the
quality offensive, which began in the vineyards and the wine
cellars. For all who would like to deepen this enjoyable drink
36 MAGAZINE 2008
in a literary way, why not get the book ‘Weinlesen’ in order
to verbally enjoy the wine and its landscape, the soil and the
people, history and other stories.
The wein.kaltern project can be better understood through
lively events such as the ’Kaltern Wine Days’ or ’All in white’.
As always: quality goes before quantity, selective choice for
demanding connoisseurs. A concept has become reality.
Stop.
WINE TRIP//WINE RIDE
One day, six wineries, more than 20 wines and a 5course
degustation menu. These are the facts about the
one-day wine trip through the south of Südtirol. The vineyard
landscape, cultural sites and culinary delicacies
make the wine ride (not on the back of a horse, but on a
minibus) an unforgettable wine cultural experience. For
dates and further information, click on
www.bolzanosurroundings.info

Top grades: The ’Guida ai migliori vini d’Italia 2007’ (Guide to
the best Italian wines 2007) by D’Agata & Comparini lists the
Pinot Grigio Unterebner 2005 from the Tramin winery with
94/100, as the best Italian white wine. Luca Maroni gives top
grades in twos: Two top grades each for the wineries of St.
Michael/Eppan, Schreckbichl and Kaltern, as well as the winegrowing
estates of Elena Walch and Waldgries, three each for
GUIDA DE L’ESPRESSO
‘VINI D’ITALIA’ 2007
‘5 BOTTIGLIE’
Kermesse 2003
Elena Walch, Tramin
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2005
Kellerei Tramin
Sauvignon Castel Giovanelli 2004
Kellerei Kaltern
Sauvignon Lafòa 2005
Kellerei Schreckbichl
Terlaner Chardonnay 1994
Terlaner Sauvignon Quarz 2004
Kellerei Terlan
Manna 2004
Franz Haas, Montan
Passito Sanct Valentin Comtess 2004
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
DUEMILAVINI AIS 2007
‘5 GRAPPOLI’
Lagrein Riserva Abtei 2003
Klosterkellerei Muri Gries, Bozen
Lagrein Riserva Porphyr 2003
Kellerei Terlan
Lagrein Riserva Taber 2004
Cabernet Mumelter Riserva 2004
Kellerei Bozen
Cabernet Sanct Valentin 2003
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
Cabernet Sauvignon Cor Römigberg 2003
Alois Lageder, Margreid
Blauburgunder Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano 2003
J. Hofstätter, Tramin
Blauburgunder Schweizer 2004
Franz Haas, Montan
Amistar Rosso Edizione T 2003
Peter Sölva & Söhne, Kaltern
Beyond The Clouds 2004
Elena Walch, Tramin
Chardonnay Cornell 2004
Kellerei Schreckbichl
Terlaner Chardonnay 1994
Kellerei Terlan
Sauvignon Sanct Valentin 2005
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof 2005
J. Hofstätter, Tramin
EXCELLENT WINES
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2005
Gewürztraminer SpätleseTerminum 04
Kellerei Tramin
Goldmuskateller Passito Castel
Giovanelli Serenade 2003
Kellerei Kaltern
Goldmuskateller Passito Baronesse
Baron Salvadori 2004
Kellerei Nals Margreid
VINI BUONI D’ITALIA 2007
‘CORONE’
Lagrein Kotznloater 2004
Ansitz Pfitscher, Montan
Lagrein Riserva 2004
Thomas Pichler, Kaltern
St. Magdalener classico 2005
Glögglhof, St. Madgalena/Bozen
Gewürztraminer Crescendo 2005
Ritterhof, Kaltern
Gewürztraminer 2005
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2005
Gewürztraminer Spätlese Terminum 2004
Kellerei Tramin
Goldmuskateller Passito Vinalia 2004
Kellerei Bozen
I VINI DI VERONELLI 2007
‘SUPER TRE STELLE’
Lagrein aus Gries Riserva 2004
Josef Niedermayr, Girlan/Eppan
Lagrein Grieser Riserva Prestige 2003
Lagrein Riserva Taber 2004
Kellerei Bozen
Lagrein Freienfeld 2004
Kellerei Kurtatsch
Lagrein Riserva Barbagol 2003
Landeskellerei Laimburg
Lagrein Riserva Porphyr 2003
Kellerei Terlan
Lagrein Riserva 2004
Ansitz Waldgries Christian Plattner, Bozen
Cabernet Löwengang 2001
Alois Lageder Tòr Löwengang, Margreid
Merlot - Cabernet Sauvignon Cornelius 03
Kellerei Schreckbichl
Merlot Riserva Sanct Valentin 2003
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
GAMBERO ROSSO
‘3 BICCHIERI 2008’
BACCHUS
the wineries of Tramin and Laimburg. Gambero Rosso & Slow
Food list the Castel Giovanelli Serenade Passito 2003 of the
Kaltern winery as the best Italian sweet wine and awarded the
Vernatsch Gschleier 1990 of the Girlan winery with the ‘Tre bicchieri
non dati’ into the wine Olympics.
For further information see www.southtyrolwine.it
Blauburgunder Barthenau Vigna
S. Urbano 2003
J. Hofstätter, Tramin
Blauburgunder Riserva 2003
Weingut Stroblhof, St. Michael/Eppan
Amistar Rosso Edizione T 2003
Peter Sölva & Söhne, Kaltern
Euforius Weinberg Dolomiten Rot 2004
Josef Niedermayr, Girlan/Eppan
Col de Rey Weinberg Dolomiten Rot 2003
Landeskellerei Laimburg
Terlaner Chardonnay 1994
Kellerei Terlan
Passito Aureus 2004
Josef Niedermayr, Girlan/Eppan
Passito Freienfeld 2004
Kellerei Kurtatsch
Goldmuskateller Passito Castel Giovanelli
Serenade 2003
Kellerei Kaltern
Lagrein Abtei Riserva 2004
Stiftskellerei Muri-Gries, Bozen
Lagrein Taber 2005
Kellerei Bozen
Lagrein Castel Ringberg 2005
Elena Walch, Tramin
Cabernet Sauvignon Lafòa 2003
Kellerei Schreckbichl
Lamarain 2005
Josephus Mayr, Bozen
Sauvignon Quarz 2005
Kellerei Terlan
Sauvignon St. Valentin 2006
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
Sauvignon Puntay 2006
Erste & Neue Kellerei, Kaltern
Weißburgunder Collection Dellago 2006
Kellerei Bozen
Weißburgunder Sirmian 2006
Kellerei Nals Margreid
Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2006
Kellerei Tramin
Gewürztraminer Kastelaz 2006
Elena Walch, Tramin
Manna 2005
Franz Haas, Montan
Castel Giovanelli Passito Serenade 2004
Kellerei Kaltern
Passito Comtess St. Valentin 2005
Kellerei St. Michael/Eppan
MAGAZINE 2008
37

MESSNER’S
MOUNTAIN
WORLD
6’10”
THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL HAS MORE TO OFFER
THAN JUST VINEYARDS. THE MENDELKAMM, AS
WELL AS THE SCHWARZHORN AND WEISSHORN
MOUNTAINS, TOGETHER WITH THE MITTERBERG,
RISE HIGH ABOVE THE ETSCH VALLEY. RIGHT IN
FRONT OF THEM, IN THE DIRECTION OF BOZEN,
YOU WILL FIND CASTLE SIGMUNDSKRON, KNOWN
AS ‘THE MAGIC MOUNTAIN’ SINCE 2006.
Having been a rock climber, extreme mountaineer, frontier hiker,
researcher and politician, I am ready to take on my heritage.
Saying this, I am not talking about my financial assets, which I
have invested into my exhibitions, but about the knowledge I
gained, my emotions and the history I found, which together
exceed any sum relating to the value of mountaineering. I owe
most of this to my colleagues, who have shared their own experiences
with me. Also relicts, which together with art, help
form strong impressions and inform mankind of what hap-
38 MAGAZINE 2008
PORTRAIT//
REINHOLD MESSNER
Frontier-crossing hiker, author, mountain farmer.
For 30 years, Reinhold Messner has been one of
the most successful mountaineers world-wide.
On his 3,500 mountain tours, he has done 100
first ascents. He has climbed all 14 mountains over
8,000 metres, hiked through the Antarctic, walked
the whole length of Greenland and has crossed the
deserts of Gobi and Takla Makan.
| by Reinhold Messner

pens when they get in touch with our mountain world. For
this reason, the MMM is not only a natural museum, but also
a hall full of art. It is a museum of experiences. The mountain
acts as a medium for or against hopelessness, fears, the feeling
of being born again and every type of emotion which you
can experience while mountain climbing. For me personally,
the inner experience is of extreme importance, as well as the
conquest of the white spots we see, when we look down into
the depths, in the death zone of mountains more than 8,000
metres high or when we are lost in nature. The development
of mountaineering as a lifestyle between the romantic and
mass tourism is also an emphasis in the museum. I found it
very difficult to develop my vision of a modern mountain museum
in my homeland of South Tyrol. As I always intended to
operate without grants, it seemed impossible to make this
project happen. Nonetheless, I was able to develop a museum
structure, which consists of five different museums and gives
a complete overview of the mountain world, despite the fact
that I had to work against a lot of difficult circumstances. The
MMM Firmian near Bozen is the centre-piece. Within the walls
of Castle Sigmundskron, we intend to regularly organise different
types of exhibitions and an extensive continuous exhibit,
as well as seminars, film days, theatre, concerts – all telling a
story about the mountains. The MMM Juval presents the holy
mountains. The MMM Dolomites museum is situated nearly
2,200 metres above sea level and its theme is rock climbing.
The MMM Ortles is concerned with the history of ice. The last
part of this museum structure gives an insight into the life of
mountain people. Having placed the individual themes/museums
into their proper environment, I was able to explain
that today, mountain culture exists side by side with a certain
city culture and that the mountains want to tell their story also
to those people, who have not climbed higher than onto the
next bar stool.
ALL AROUND SOUTH TYROL
41 days, one thousand kilometres, more than 100,000 metres
of altitude (up and down) and about 300 summits. These are
the statistics about the round of South Tyrol. Hans Kammerlander
and I hiked along the border of this region in autumn
1991 without taking one day off. With this action, we wanted
to stimulate people around us to think about the past, the
present and the future of South Tyrol. In the Europe of tomorrow,
South Tyrol not only takes on a geographically central
position: the country of mountains is an ancient, tri-lingual
cultural region, which – in the past – has been the object of
several political arguments and – today – is the holiday home
for many Northern and Southern Europeans alike.
ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN FARMERS
The self-image of the mountain farmers much change! Also
the framework conditions which influence our local government
must be re-written. Originally, the mountain farmers
were economically self-sufficient, which makes sense, given
the distance between some farmhouses. The industrial production
of meat and milk makes sense in some of the valleys,
40 MAGAZINE 2008

MMM & MORE
Messner Mountain Moments
Fourteen cosmetic products created using herbs
represent 14 more of the 8,000 metre high mountains,
which Reinhold Messner
climbed! Fourteen fragrances are
presented in the ‘Messner Mountain
Magic’ perfume range. The first two
fragrances ‘Nanga Parbat’ for women
and ‘Manaslu’ for men are already on
the market. Every E year, Messner will
add a new fragrance according to the
order in which he climbed the 8,000
metre summits.
www.kraeutergold.it
MMM FIRMIAN
The magic mountain
The centre-piece of my mountain museums – MMM
Firmian at Castle Sigmundskron near Bozen – symbolically
called ‘the magic mountain’. In a circular
walk around an exhibition and six towers, which
present the development, might and the conquest
of the mountains, visitors can gain some insight and
knowledge of the mountain world. The architect
Werner W Tscholl T has successfully created a piece of art,
which is second to none. With W art, relicts and expres-
sions, I can talk about the mountains in the best way
possible. A unique place to be!
Opening times:
from the first Sunday in March to the last Sunday in
November from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., last entry at 5 p.m.
Mondays closed
Tel. T +39 0471 631 264
MMM DOLOMITES
Museum in the clouds
In the heart of the Dolomites, between Pieve di
Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, the ‘Museum in
the clouds’ rises at the Monte Rite (2,181 metres).
From its summit platform, there is a panoramic
view of the most spectacular Dolomite peaks: Monte
Schiara, Monte Agnèr, Monte Civetta, Marmolata,
Monte Pelmo, Tofana T di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao
and Marmarole. The exhibition is about the theme
of ‘rock’. The development of the Dolomites is told
by researchers and climbers, who have made history
with their discoveries, new paths and first ascents
in Alpine history. The centre-piece of the museum
structure is a large gallery with collections of unique
Dolomite photos from the Romantic Era to today.
Every E year, there are a number of special exhibitions
organised, including a unique circular walk.
Opening times:
1st June to 30th September, open all days
June and from Mid September: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
From July to mid September: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Tel. T +39 0435 890 996
MAGAZINE 2008
41

however, in extreme or remote mountain areas, the increasing
competition and machines prices are hard to swallow.
In order to save the mountain farming culture, the only chance
seems to be in a radical cure with three main points of change:
re-organisation of grants, the return of self-sufficiency and extra
income through the refining of their own products. Crafts,
tourism and filling niche markets. The ground must not only
be worked because a farmer intends to live from its proceeds,
but primarily because we want to retain our South Tyrolean
landscapes. Farmers must be rewarded for this type of conservation
of the countryside.
TOURISM – YES, BUT HOW?
In a world that gets smaller by the minute, more and more,
holidaymakers are looking for pure nature. Most of our guests
come to us, because they love the mountains. For this reason,
the mountains should be kept as they always were, not only
because they are our sweet water reservoir, our local air-con
and our natural background. Nature is most valuable wherever
we leave it to look after itself. Where it turns into an object,
it loses its strength, which a human being needs to find
emotional well-being. Retaining the natural and cultural landscape
on one side and using the landscape assets on the other
needs sensitivity by all who are involved. The basic rules are as
follows: ecology before economy, quality before quantity. We
cannot damage our landscape assets, which are the basis of
42 MAGAZINE 2008
MMM FIRMIAN//Castle Sigmundskron
tourism – our main income – out of ignorance or indifference.
On the other hand, it is not possible to prohibit any activity
in the mountains. The survival of the ‘holiday home in South
Tyrol’ depends not on whether we go into the mountains, but
how we do it.
Tourism is our only chance and, therefore, we need to know
what we are doing. In the distant past, South Tyrol hadn’t a lot
to bring to market. When five million guests come to spend
their holiday in South Tyrol – this is more than ten times the
number of inhabitants – we do not need to ask - ‘tourism, yes
or no?’ The real question is how we integrate the guests and
tourism as a whole into the ecological, cultural and social-economic
structure of the country, including moving away from
cheap tourism and more concentrating on quality tourism.
US SOUTH TYROLEANS
For us South Tyroleans, there is change in the air. South Tyrol
is synonymous with holidays, for people from the north of the
Alpine mountain range and from the south, also because we
accept our status. South Tyrol is no longer the ‘Tyrol south of
the Brenner Pass’. South Tyrol is South Tyrol. And we all are
South Tyroleans: Ladin people, Italians and German-speakers
in this country. Despite all our differences, there is a connecting
point: the responsibility for the country along the Etsch
river and the mountains. It is possible to have a multi-cultural
society in South Tyrol. Tourism will help us to make this come

WHITE TOWER//Soaked in history
true. German, Italians, as well as Dutch, Americans and French
people feel at home here. I have seen tourists coming from
Sicily and Hamburg, who looked at the Rosengarten in such
a way as if they would love to take it home with them. However,
we need to change our understanding of ‘homeland’ if
we want to live in peace together and to enjoy the proceeds of
tourism. South Tyrol with its characteristics can be saved into
the next millennium. This is our task.
SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL
Northern lifestyle combined with southern creativity is unbeatable.
The desire for life and a cultural play ground form an
economic foundation. We have become economically strong.
It’s for this reason that we want to have our own country. Economically,
we could afford a ‘return to the Middle Ages’, but
culturally we cannot. As individual regions get more important
in the ‘Europe of People’, we have our chance. Both sides
have learned from each other – the Italians from the Germans
and vice-versa. The sum of both cultures is the key to a good
future. We have gained more than we have lost.
’All around South Tyrol’ is a book about my homeland South
Tyrol. The book with its mixture of photos, tour reports, landscape
descriptions, history and political vision is the result of
an extraordinary tour along the frontiers. It is declaration of
location and love in one.
MMM & MORE
MMM JUVAL
Myth & mountain
As a researcher and alpinist, I have concentrated in
particular on the Holy Mountains. My full attention
is drawn by Milarepa, which I have studied for
a long time. For four decades, I have been a rock
climber and mountaineer; today, I am fascinated by
those summits, which seem to be key peaks for the
local population. The Kailash mountain in Tibet,
for example, the Fujiama in Japan or Ayers Rock
in Australia. The Juval museum mainly looks at the
combination of myth & mountain. The castle alone
is worth seeing though. A unique exhibition for the
Gesar Ling, the Tantra region, an expedition cellar, a
mask collection and elements of animism, as well as
mountain photos from the former keep are skilfully
explained by our guides. Juval was a trial project to
link local and exotic culture, as well as down-to-earth
economy and tourism. Everyone visiting Castle Juval,
usually leaves having gained strong impressions.
Opening times:
from Palm Sunday to 30th June and from 1st September
to the first Sunday in November
10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Wednesdays closed
Tel. +39 348 443 3871 (only during opening hours)
MMM ORTLES
At the end of the earth
In Sulden at the Ortler mountain, I have created a
unique museum together with the architect Arnold
Gapp. We call it ‘the end of the earth’. In the Anich
map from 1774, the Ferner at the Ortler mountain is
marked just above where the ice museum now stands.
The MMM Ortles talks about the ‘fears people may
have from the ice, and about the darkness’, about
‘snow people’ and ‘snow lions’, about the ‘White Out’
and the ‘third pole’. The worldwide largest collection
of Ortler photos is exhibited, as well as ice tools from
two centuries. Skiing, ice-climbing and pole runs are
taken up as a theme. Visitors literally walk into the
mountain and can gain impressions from ice mountains,
the North Pole and the Antarctic, the power
of avalanches and the hard work of an artist to create
something from ice. Outside, the ice is real. Beside
it, at the ‘Yak and Yeti’, you can order besides South
Tyrolean dishes, ‘momo’, a dish from the Himalayan
snowland.
Opening times:
from the second Sunday in December to 1st May
and from second Sunday in June to second Sunday in
October; 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. closed Tuesdays
Gasthof ‘Yak & Yeti’, Tel. +39 0473 613 266
For more information visit
www.messner-mountain-museum.it
MAGAZINE 2008
43

44 MAGAZINE 2008
MYSTERIES
THE BOZEN CODE
| by Rino Zullo
My work brings me in touch with a lot of people. For this reason,
I hear many personal views from folk who visit our town. The
sentence heard most often is: ‘I did not expect Bozen to be so
beautiful!’. My answer is a simple confirmation.
If you drive on the road along the Eisack river – one of the three
rivers in our city – or arrive from the North or South along the
motorway, the landscape does not give away that there is a gem
waiting only a short distance away. When you arrive, what you see
are the modern industrial areas with all the various companies.
As our friend and visitor does not know the route, he trusts the
signs put up by the town hall and finds one of the most comfortable
parking lots in the city centre, just below the Waltherplatz
square. The good thing is that he is now forced to walk through
the dark, concrete subways, which will bring him right to the
tightly packed market square, where he will find lots of people
in a good mood, sitting in the sun and reading one of the any
3’10”
newspapers from the international press. What a great picture!
Here you have the pulsating heart of the city with its wonderful
cathedral. Only a few steps away – and I mean really only a few
steps – you come to the ‘Lauben’, the old trade centre, which still
offers lots of beautiful shops. Bozen is simply wonderful!
Now I would like to accompany you into the magic and secret
part of the town, far away from mass tourism. Follow me
along the Bindergasse, along the St. Johannesgasse and let’s
walk along the St. Oswald promenade. Once we have passed
the bend at the old pub called ‘Batzenhäusl’, we take the picturesque
street called St. Johannes. It’s a narrow and winding street,
with tiny doors and a workshop where wind instrument are
made. The craftsman is a true artist and the last one of his kind.
From here, we come to the romantic little church with its frescoes,
which are consecrated to Saint Kathrin. The caretaker lives

nearby and will most likely open the door for us, so that we can
admire the wonderful painting. After a short break at the St. Oswald
promenade, we fight our way up the stone steps and take
the next two or three bends. The view over Bozen is breath-taking...
and the mystery? Just below where we are standing now,
is the little St. Magdalena chapel with its frescoes from the 14th
Century, which depict the saint. Just as it is written in the novel
‘The Da Vinci Code’ by Dan Brown, she is pictured in the midst of
the apostles. Another fresco shows Jesus – not with his disciples,
but with Magdalena. In the book by Dan Brown, the Holy Grail is
symbolised by Magdalena, who flees from the Holy Land, while
she carries her son Jesus. The Kingdom of the Merovingian and
the Order of the Templar were founded in Southern France.
Maybe, this is the Holy Grail – here in Bozen? In the end, there
are not many churches consecrated to this saint…
We walk back along the same route until we reach the ‘Batzenhäusl’
which was founded by the German Order of the Knights.
PORTRAIT//
RINO ZULLO
56 years, artist name Cobo. A professional of
‘Trompe l’oeil’ and wall paintings, cartoon designer
and creator of postcards from Rome, Munich,
Venice and Bozen is also an author of a number of
books, such as ‘Il cumulo del testimone’ – a search
about the metaphoric meaning of stones in the universal
culture. He is the owner of the ‘Fischbänke’.
Stories of crusaders and war monks can be told only a few metres
down the road, where we find a place called the ’German
Order’ with its large portals. These are decorated with black
crosses with a white edge – a sign, which was sown onto the
coats of the knights of this order. Just like the Templars, the German
Knights also had a division in Jerusalem... However, there is
another secret to be discovered: the magic square at the watch
tower of Castel Maretsch. A square palindrome, in which you
can read the following five words from any direction: sator-arepo-tenet-opera-rotas.
An exciting walk, don’t you agree?
Now to the last attraction – a romantic little street which connects
the Lauben and the Dr.-Streiter-Gasse. In 1756, Giacomo
Casanova walked along this passage after his escape from the
Piombi prison in Venice. He stayed for six days in town and then
made his way to Germany, where he lived to the end of his days
in Bohemia. In this place, the street is so tight that you still can
feel his spirit about.
MAGAZINE 2008
45

PORTRAIT//
MONIKA PICHLER
Dr. phil., journalist, grew up
in Gries near Bozen. Studied
translation and interpreting in
Innsbruck and Brussels. Worked
in PR offices in North and South
Tyrol. Since 2006, has been the
deputy-editor of the Tyrolean
economy magazine
’wia-Wirtschaft im Alpenraum’.
THE FARMER
HAS GOT IT
VISITING THE RED ROOSTER
| by Monika Pichler
MAGAZINE 2008
4’55”
FRESH DUVETS, A SUBSTANTIAL FARMING BREAKFAST, STEAM-
ING SPECK KNÖDEL, EXCELLENT WINES AND JAMS TO TAKE
HOME: A FORAY INTO THE FARMING WORLD OF THE SOUTH OF
SÜDTIROL SHOWS A PIECE OF TRUE HAPPINESS.
The geraniums glow in blazing red through the wooden balcony. The windows
are clean, the old walls coloured white and beside the beautiful entrance door,
there is a sign with three flowers and a red rooster. A red rooster? This is not often
seen in nature. However, in South Tyrol’s farming world, this spectacle is everpresent,
as Peter Messner from the Ronacherhof at the sunny Ritten mountain
tells us. ‘The red rooster on our house walls is a sign of tested quality for a holiday
on a farm.’ He says it and opens the door to one of the comfortable holiday apartments,
which are found in the history-soaked walls of the 12th Century. It smells
of freshly cleaned wooden floors and you feel the historic flair entangled in quality-stricken
homeliness. In this ambience, at an altitude of 1,220 metres above
sea level, you can easily relax and everyday life passes you by. Next door, in the
large stable, you can find out the secrets of keeping cattle. The Messner family
has a long-standing tradition in this occupation. Their home-made speck is one
of the best in this region. For centuries, the ham is smoked in the ‘Rauchkuchl’ in
order to make it non-perishable and to give it is incomparable aroma. ‘If you like,
you can watch my wife baking bread’, says the farmer from the Ronacherhof. You
can smell the lovely fragrance all around the house. For the kids, there is a lot to
discover, such as many house and farm animals, which will be glad to get stroked
by the children.
47

EXCELLENT WINES FROM A SUNNY REGION
Around 800 metres below the farm lays Eppan on the Wine
Road. Here, the air is a little warmer. The Pizzol-Hof run by the
Pardatscher family has a flair for relaxation … but don’t be
fooled. Behind the quiet scenes of the vineyard and orchard
farm, lots of work is done. Particularly during the summer
months, the Pardatschers are either found in the orchards or
the vineyards around the farmhouse; and after the harvest,
in the cellars, of course. ‘Enjoy a good glass of wine from our
own production on our terrace and talk shop about the last
year … even this is part of a holiday on a farm in South Tyrol’,
Mr. Pardatscher believes. Three flowers and the ‘Red Rooster’
plaque at the door, demonstrates that relaxation and wellbeing
are one of the most important things in this place. Not
only the adults, but also our younger guests (if they don’t run
around the meadows) enjoy the fruits of the large farm garden.
Nearby, there are three wonderful bathing lakes, which
will make your stay at the farm in the ‘Überetsch’ or the Lowlands
an unforgettable experience.
RIPS AND ROASTS
In South Tyrol, the ’Red Rooster’ crows in nearly every pub
and guesthouse in the country. These are the ideal places to
get to know warm farming hospitality, as well as traditional
dishes from the farmhouse kitchen. ‘South Tyrolean farming
pubs have a long-standing tradition. For decades, farmers
48 MAGAZINE 2008
have opened their cellars for their guests for ‘Törggelen’ (an
old autumn custom) and for wine tasting, to which very appealing
farmhouse dishes are served’, explain Claudia and
Rudi Gasser from the Steidlerhof, which is situated in the
soft vineyard hills of Obermagdalena near Bozen. It is still
the same today. In front of an impressive mountain backdrop
with great panoramic views from the Rosengarten to
the Mendel mountain range, the snacks at the Steidlerhof
are second to none. Whether you try speck with smoked
sausages or spinach-, cheese- and liver-knödel (dumplings),
whether rips with roast or potato edges with sauerkraut – the
Gasser family will look after you while you fill your batteries
on their sun terrace. The children will love home-produced
juices made from apples, elderberry, peppermint, pineapple
or sage, while the bigger guests enjoy a glass of Vernatsch,
Cabernet, Lagrein or Sauvignon from our own vineyards. Begin
the day with a comfortable hiking trip into South Tyrol’s
cultural landscape. Enjoy some specialities from the farm, as
well as true hospitality: a visit in one of the wine bars with the
‘Red Rooster’ outside will help you to dive right into the soul
of farming life.
THE BEST FRUITS FROM THE BIO-FARMER
Don’t miss the experience – such as tasting some of the
quality farming products, which will extend the memories
of some wonderful farm days by a number of glasses! Allow

yourself to be spoilt by the sunny climate, wonderful fruit,
healthy vegetables and aromatic herbs that grow on our
fields and in the farmhouse gardens. Of course, there are fruit
juices, jams, vinegars, teas and much more, all of the highest
quality. Why not take a sip from Margit and Hermann Luggin’s
grape juice made from the Steffelehof at Lake Kaltern.
The naturally cloudy thirst-quencher comes from biological
production. ‘Only fully ripened berries from our farm with
the ‘Red Rooster’ trademark are allowed into our bottles.
We produce according to the guidelines of integrated fruit
production’, emphasises the farmer’s wife from St. Nikolaus
near Kaltern. The farm is situated 450 metres above sea level.
Since the year 2000, the Luggin family has run the estate full
of grapes, pip fruit and stone fruit. The result in its pure and
pressed form speaks for itself. The special aromas of natural
ingredients make all the difference.
This is not only true for the Steffelehof, but also for 40 other
enterprises in quality farming production in South Tyrol,
which market their products under the ’Red Rooster’ trademark.
For the enjoyment of the locals, as well as holidaymakers:
after a relaxing break or holiday on a farm in South Tyrol,
you can take some wonderful, tasty farming gifts with you.
The selection of quality products is nearly unlimited. There is
something for every taste … and for every car boot!
FAMILY & MORE
Family Hotels Ritten
They guarantee a varied and interesting family holiday.
Week by week, visits are organised to farms, for
trial riding, climbing and children meetings. During
the theme weeks, all the focus is concentrated on a
particular theme. Who would like to be a Red Indian,
a knight or a witch?
www.familyhotels-ritten.com
Holiday on a farm
South Tyrolean’s farmhouses are small structures and
many farmers depend on additional income. It is the
aim of the ‘Red Rooster’ trademark to establish three
types of sustainable extra income: holiday on a farm/
farming pubs and quality products from farmhouses.
The ‘Red Rooster’ guarantees high quality and
introduces people in general to the South Tyrolean
farming culture and lifestyle.
www.redrooster.it
Farmers with power
Whether the Red Hen at the Ritten mountain, the
Maol-dun in Mölten or simply a farmhouse in the
Sarn Valley: intelligent and active farmers want to offer
more to their guests. The range of services is varied
and reaches from traditional bread baking to Nordic
Walking excursions.
www.rotehenne.it
www.suedtirol-moelten.com
www.lust-auf-bauernhof.com
Farming museum
The Rohrerhaus in Sarnthein is a museum, which was
built from an old farmhouse with a smoky kitchen
and bread oven. Years ago, the house was one of the
largest farmhouses in the Sarn valley. The large rooms
bear witness to the importance of the farm. It is said
that at times, the farmhouse employed more than 20
maids and workers on the farm.
www.rohrerhaus.it
Bees & honey
One of the most picturesque farmhouses in all
of South Tyrol, is the 600 years old Plattner Hof
in Wolfsgruben at the Ritten mountain, with its
thatched roof. Today, it houses a bee museum with
historic bee-keeping tools. On the outdoor section
of the museum, there is a teaching trail, bee stands, a
farming garden and a pond.
www.museo-plattner.it
Aldein Museums
Besides the Village Museum in Aldein and the
Geological Museum in Radein, there is also the Mill
Ensamble in Thal near Aldein. The ‘Schiaser’ mills
with which the children of Aldein once produced
their own ‘Schiaser’ (marbles) are truly unique.
www.museum-aldein.com
MAGAZINE 2008
49

5’15”
WITH THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION, THE TECHNICAL POSSIBILI-
TIES FOR PASSENGER TRANSPORT INCREASED ENORMOUSLY. THE
RAILWAYS CONTRIBUTED TO THIS IN A GREAT WAY.
RITTEN RAILWAY//Hundred years ago
50 MAGAZINE 2008
WITH FULL STEAM
FREE ROUTE AHEAD
WITH LOCAL RAILWAYS
| by Jul Bruno Laner

MENDEL RAILWAY//Conquering 850 metres of altitude in 12 minutes
The upcoming tourism encouraged brave entrepreneurs to
invest capital and ideas in order to make the Bozen valley
basin, as well as the South of South Tyrol accessible. In such a
mountainous country, where the biggest part of the terrain
is situated at an altitude of 1,000 metres or more above sea
level, a great challenge arose for quite a number of companies.
The large difference in altitude was conquered through
rack railways, funiculars or suspension cable railways. The
lesser steep valleys and slopes could be opened up through
narrow gage and normal railways. It was not too bad then
about 100 years ago, and the mobility of that time together
with its pioneering traces can still be felt and seen today.
THE KOHLERN CABLE RAILWAY
The Kohlern Cable Railway is going to celebrate its 100th
birthday on 29th June 2008. It is still in operation today – a
beacon on the European continent. Coming from Bozen, you
can reach the top of the Kohlern mountain in only a few minutes.
The cable car runs every 30 minutes. Once at the top,
you have unlimited possibilities for hiking trips along the
European Distance Hiking road E5 in the direction of Deutschnofen
or can walk across to the Leifers high mountain
road, only to descend to the Etsch Valley via Seit and to return
to your base point using public transport.
PORTRAIT//
JUL BRUNO LANER
Lives in Bozen as a freelance
publisher. Author
of a number of theatre
pieces and books about
South Tyrol, screenplays
for TV documentaries
about South Tyrol and
films about art and culture.
He writes regularly
for national and international
newspapers.
THE RITTEN RAILWAY
The Ritten Railway celebrated its 100th anniversary only last
year. In 1907, the Ritten Railway was run as a city railway from
the Bozen Waltherplatz and turned into a rack railway at the
slopes of the Hörten mountain. Fixed to a wedge-head tooth
rack, it made about 11,764 kilometres in about 90 minutes.
In 1908, the demand from the tourists and holidaymakers
extended so much that the fleet of the Ritten railway had to
be extended almost immediately. The railway was operated
regularly until 1966. After that, the route Bozen-Oberbozen
was replaced by the longest suspension railway, which in turn
will have to make way for a modern circular railway in 2009.
On the route Himmelfahrt-Oberbozen-Klobenstein, the 100
year old railway is still in operation; it is, however, supported
by new rolling material. The Ritten mountain, which can also
be reached via normal road, is also called the ’sun terrace’ of
the Southern main Alpine range. There is a wide variety of
possible excursions to the Rittner Horn, the Sarner Scharte
and other interesting destinations.
THE MENDEL RAILWAY
Bozen-Kaltern-Mendel was the route, which ran from Bozen
to St. Anton as a normal track railway (first with steam, then
with electricity). From St. Anton, the Mendel mountain was
MAGAZINE 2008
51

eached via a funicular. The railway was opened in 1903 and
is still running today. It is much loved by each passenger,
whether tourist or local. At its opening, the Mendel Railway
was a technical miracle of a special kind. An effective tourist
attraction, it helped to achieve a second ascent to the ‘Überetsch’
region. On one hand, tourism increased, on the other,
the railway enticed the golf-loving upper class. On the Mendel
mountain, there is still an area, which is called ‘the golf
meadow’. From the Mendel railway, it is possible to hike along
the entire length and width of the Mendel mountain: to the
Roen Peak, the Penegal, the Gantkofel mountain and into the
Deutsch-Nonsberg region. The valley terminal of the Mendel
Railway can easily be reached by car or public bus transport.
THE ’LEPSBAHNL’ & CO.
The ‘Überetsch’ Railway from Bozen to Kaltern, lovingly
called the ’Lepsbahnl’ (wine train), had to leave its territory
to the strong and mighty powers of road traffic. For more
than half a century, it was an important means for the transport
of goods. Wine and apples were put onto the train and
marketed. Until today, one unit of quantity for apples in the
wholesale sector is referred to as a ‘wagon of apples’, which
are 10,000 kilograms – a wonderful reminder of the ‘Überetsch’
Railway. The old railway tracks were turned into a cycling
path, which connects Bozen with Eppan, Kaltern and
52 MAGAZINE 2008
the lowlands. Today, you can once again hear political and
economic voices, who talk about a vision of railway transport
from Bozen to the ‘Überetsch’ region. The technical advances
in the area of circular railways, which have literally put the
sport of skiing onto a new track, should make this vision a
reality. Let’s wait and see.
Also the South Tyrolean lowlands once had their railway
jewel: the Fleims Valley Railway. It was closed for the same
reasons as the ‘Überetsch’ Railway. The old tracks can still be
seen and are enjoyed by cyclists and hikers alike. A cycling
trip into the Fleims Valley is an Alpine, but soft alternative to
the Spring and Summer tours into the Etsch Valley, the lakes
and along the river banks.
Returning from the lowlands to the Bozen basin, we come
back to a funicular from days gone by: the ‘Guntschna’ Railway.
It once led from the spa town of Gries to the vineyards of
the Guntschna mountain, near the Tschöggl mountain. You
will have to drive that way when you want to go from Bozen
to the neighbouring village of Jenesien. This funicular was
put out of action during the second half of the last century.
The same thing happened to the funicular to the Virgl mountain
near Bozen, which was replaced after World War II by a
suspension cable railway, which also has departed this life.

STOAN MEN//View across the Sarn Valley Alps
THE JENESIEN & MÖLTEN CABLE RAILWAY
Those who are not impressed by the self-willed snail and tunnel
construction of the road to Jenesien, can enjoy the comfortable
suspension cable railway. Its valley terminal is situated
near the fairy-tale castle of Runkelstein. From Jenesien,
it is possible to hike across the Tschaufen near the Tschöggl
mountain over to Hafling and Meran. The Salten mountain
with its unique larch meadows can also be reached in a short
time, using the cable railway from Vilpian to Mölten.
THE VINSCHGAU RAILWAY
For about one year now, there has been – apart from the
North-South railway route – a new rail route: a direct train
connection from Bozen to Mals in the Vinschgau region. The
new, elegantly furnished, province-owned panorama motor
coach railway transports passengers into the Vinschgau
without them having to change trains. The Vinschgau Railway,
which was dreaming a Snowwhite’s dream over the past
50 years, has been kissed by its prince and woken up. The
prince was the South Tyrolean Transport Minister, who organised
for the old tracks to be renovated and modernised. It is
a striking success with all passengers, tourists and local alike.
As you can see, it is not all that bad today if we think about
the local trains in the South of Südtirol. And we will enjoy
them full steam ahead!
TRAIN & MORE
Lamas & blonds
Fancy some trekking with lamas? It is possible at the
Kaserhof on the Ritten mountain. Or do you prefer
to be on tour with a blond? On the back of a soft,
blond Hafling horse, riding lessons are particularly
brilliant. Equestrian centres can be found in the
equestrian village of Jenesien, in Mölten, in the Sarntal
or on the Ritten mountain. For further information,
please contact any of the tourist offices.
New Ritten suspension railway
The new railway with three ropes combines the advantages
of a shuttle railway and a coupling rotation
railway. The opening is planned for autumn 2008.
Until then, you must still use the bus.
Historic Railway Hotel
In 1908, Parkhotel Holzner in Oberbozen was built
in art nouveau style by the Rittnerbahn AG as a railway
hotel. It is South Tyrol’s ‘historic accommodation
in 2008’. The important factor for the jury was the
harmony between the Old and the New.
www.parkhotel-holzner.com
The Ritten theme path
On an exciting circular hiking trip, you can get to
know the Ritten mountain and its characteristics. On
altogether nine panels, the Ritten phenomena such
as the Ritten railway, the imperator’s route, the earth
pyramids, churches and glaciers are explained in detail.
The 2 ½ hour hiking trip is suitable for all the family.
Kohlern lock-out point
Near the mountain terminal of the railway, there is
a 37 metre high look-out tower made of tree trunks.
This is a breath-taking view across the main Alpine
mountain range to the Dolomite mountains and the
Mendel mountain. Passing Bauernkohlern, you come
to Herrenkohlern, where the high-class society of Bozen
enjoyed their summer holidays more than 100 years ago.
Technology museum
The virtual technology museum presents technical
and historically interesting objects and ensembles,
which you could find throughout the last 200 years
and which have risen to new importance. The nationwide
technology course along the cycle paths leads
you to more than 20 different venues.
www.technikmuseum.it
MAGAZINE 2008
53

MAGIC WINTER
| by Roswitha Mair
THE SARN VALLEY, RITTEN MOUNTAIN, JOCHGRIMM NEAR ALDEIN, THE
SALTEN MOUNTAIN WITH MÖLTEN AND JENESIEN, AS WELL AS ALTREI AND
TRUDEN OFFER THE PERFECT WINTER MAGIC FROM THE BEGINNING OF
DECEMBER TO MID APRIL.
All ski resorts are suitable for skiing and snowboarding,
with easy pistes for beginners and difficult ones for the ski
experts. While the Jochgrimm ski area is particularly attractive
for newcomers to the sport, i.e. the manageable Rittner
Horn which is mainly for families, for those who like to get
going on their skies on the Europa Cup pistes, you will be
happy to hit Reinswald. Close by, you’ll also find Bozen, Castelfeder,
Truden or Altrei with the ski resort of Obereggen Val
di Fiemme – practically right at the front door. For those who
love variety: you can change ski resort every day, or the same
is true with the type of sport. Some look forward to the ‘old’
style of winter sport such as figure skating or a toboggan run
and some follow the trend like snow-shoe hiking, reaching
the summit on skies or cross-country skiing. The bathing
and mountain lakes, even Lake Kaltern, which is the warmest
bathing lake in the Alps, changes through the cold sea-
54 MAGAZINE 2008
2’30”
son into an icy meeting place for the old and young. The 400
metre ice-rink in Klobenstein, where the world elite prepare
for the important events of the year, is open to anyone who
would like to try it out.
TOBOGGAN RUN BY DAY OR NIGHT
And here we go … up into the Sarn Valley, with one of the
longest toboggan runs in South Tyrol. The best-quality
and fully child-friendly family toboggan run ‘Reinswalder
Wiesn’ winds itself over 4.5 km down to the valley terminal,
while the Sunnolm race course demands some technical
knowledge. During week-ends with a full moon, we have
unforgettable sledging fun in the moon light. You can also
have some sledging fun at the Rittner Horn and in Mölten,
where numerous hiking paths guide you through the winter
landscape.

HORSES & COACHES
Whether you want to enjoy a romantic horse-drawn coach
trip or ride at a galloping pace through fresh powdered
snow, those who love horse-drawn carriages and winter riders
will enjoy their stay in the Sarn Valley, at the Ritten mountain,
in Jenesien and Mölten. Also the village of Eppan offers
some wintry equestrian fun … through knotty vineyards or
through the Montiggl forest.
BREATHE IN THE WINTER AIR
Whether on your own, in twos or with friends: you can trudge
across snowy hills with snow-shoes on your feet and walk far
away from the pistes to breathe in the winter air. If you prefer
to reach the summits: there are 140 Sarn Valley peaks, ready to
be conquered on skies. Don’t underestimate the Rittner Horn,
the Weißhorn and the Schwarzhorn mountains. Cross-country
skiing has also returned as a new trend. The Penser Valley offers
ideal conditions with 24 km, while the Jochgrimm-Lavazè has
60 km and there is the Rittner Horn high-mountain trail with
fantastic views of the Dolomites … at a length of 35 km.
WITH CHRISTMAS AROUND THE CORNER
… a visit to the traditional Bozen Christmas market is a must!
The whole experience is somewhat cosier in the Sarn Valley:
The Sarn Valley Alpine Advent at the week-ends brings
you back in time. On the first three Thursdays in advent, the
‘Klöckler’ (bell ringers) run from house to house. They are
strange creatures! It’s worth visiting more than 100 cribs in
the streets and oriels of St. Pauls/Eppan.
HIGHLIGHTS & MORE
Skiing nursery
The Reinswald skiing school has the golden children’s
quality seal. The ski nursery welcomes children from
the age of 2 ½ years for a half or full day – even if
you don’t enrol for a ski course. The children get a
child-friendly lunch and a place to rest and play.
www.reinswald.com
Ski tours with Hans Kammerlander
The week from 19th to 26th January 2008 is dedicated
to ski tour professionals: an exclusive tour preparation,
two skiing tours with Hans Kammerlander
and a unique Alpine hut fun with savoury Sarn Valley
dishes. Further information available from the tourist
office Sarntal.
Europacup 2007
From 21st to 25th January 2008, Reinswald is the
venue for the Men’s European Cup Race in the
disciplines of the downhill run and Super G. From
25th to 30th March 2008, the annual German Skiing
Championship takes place on the pistes of Reinswald.
Curling Sport WM 08
From 26th February to 2nd March 2008, the Ritten
mountain is the venue for the 8th WM Curling
Sport. Curling, just like ice-skating, has a long-standing
tradition on the Ritten mountain. Already at the
end of the 19th Century, Lake Wolfsgruben was used
for sport of curling.
Winter combination
During the day, you can enjoy the pistes and in the
evening, you can stroll through the Bozen porticos.
Or do you prefer an evening out at the theatre? The
ski resorts of Reinswald and Rittner Horn are only 30
minutes by car from the provincial capital. It’s worth
making a visit to the wine cellars along the South
Tyrolean Wine Road.
MAGAZINE 2008
55

A GOOD YEAR
LIVING
AMONGST
THE GRAPES
| by Herbert Taschler
4’50”
SPRING, SUMMER, AUTUMN AND WINTER. NO-
WHERE ELSE CAN YOU EXPERIENCE THE SEA-
SONS AS INTENSIVELY AS IN A VINEYARD. FROM
WHEN THE FIRST SHOOTS APPEAR TO THE LAST
GRAPES BEING CUT. A VINEYARD OFFERS YOU
NEW SURPRISES ON A DAILY BASIS AND GIVES
YOU FASCINATING INSIGHT INTO ITS SECRETS.
SPRING – THE GRAPES ’WEEP’
When the first green leaves appear in springtime, when the
fresh juice shoots into the vines, when the grapes begin to
weep close to where they were cut and the furry and woolly
buds begin to open – this is when life begins in the vineyard.
From the end of March – depending on weather and location
– the vines show the first small leaves. Shoots begin to grow.
On a wet day, you can nearly watch them grow. This is the
start of a work-intensive period of time for the wine-grower…
who will not stop until he gets the harvest in.
The panicles begin to form and the grapes begin to flower. The
flowering period is usually for a number of days, which can be
divided into pre-blossom, main blossom and after-blossom.
When the buds lose their outer skin, the young grapes will appear.
Now, it is important to cut off the leaves around the forming
grapes. Double panicles and fruitless shoots are cut off.
56 MAGAZINE 2008

PORTRAIT//
HERBERT TASCHLER
Born in Toblach, he lives in Kaltern since 1990
and has an eye on the South Tyrolean wine and
gastronomy scene. As a freelance journalist,
he tastes, tests and writes for several types of
media and wine guides – one of them being
Gambero Rosso.
During this phase, there are a number of dangers which
arise in the vineyard: for example, the vine leaf roller and a
fungal infection called Gescheins-Bortrytis. The wine-grower
must act with the appropriate treatment. Depending on the
weather, a certain number of pest control treatments need
to be carried out in order to ensure the health of the grapes,
as well as sufficient harvest. Around the same time, the first
work needs to be carried out on the ground. In order to improve
the soil structure, an organic fertilizer can be used before
the first shoots appear. Depending on the location, it is
important to add sufficient minerals and nutrients. The space
around the vines – particularly with new vineyards – must be
kept free of grass. Later on, grass, herbs and flowers are more
than welcome in the vineyard. At the slopes, the turf helps to
prevent erosion. When the grass is cut, it turns into an invaluable
layer of humus.
MAGAZINE 2008
57

Usually, the vine is an extremely undemanding plant. However,
it is also a plant, which grows and grows if it is not kept
under control. In order to keep the vine growth in balance
and to enable harmonic growth, measure must be taken.
Harmony and the right balance between the plant, wood,
leaves and grapes are important. There is a close connection
between the growth of the grapes and the quality of grapes
and wine.
Besides cutting off the leaves, the grapes must also be thinned
out. Depending on the type of grape and their size, growth
must be regulated. With larger grape types such as Vernatsch,
Lagrein or Merlot, only one grape stays on each shoot; with
smaller types of grape, there are usually two. One vine should
have around ten to twelve shoots on traditional pergola cultivation;
in wire cultivation, there are six to seven. Depending
on the type of cultivation, the leaves must be organised
around the structure and can sometimes be tied to it.
SUMMER – THE GRAPES BEGIN TO RIPEN
From the end of June, the grapes visibly begin to grow. Some
weeks later, the kernels inside the grapes begin to soften, red
grapes start to colour and the white ones get clearer in colour.
58 MAGAZINE 2008
Now, the grape begins to store fruity sugar. From now on, the
wine-grower needs to consequently thin out the grapes. In
some parts they need to be halved. This is to prevent fungal
diseases, as well as to regulate the harvest. The grapes must
hang loose and should not be covered by leaves. Thinning out
the grapes increases the weight and the concentration of the
most important ingredients in order to improve the quality.
This is the time, when the wine-grower gets more excited
and his expectations for a good harvest begin to show. The
weather god must play its part as the ripening process needs
sufficient sunshine and warmth during the day, as well as
cooler temperatures during the night.
AUTUMN – WAITING FOR THE HARVEST
The most important weeks for a vineyard are about to arrive.
Nearly three weeks before the beginning of the harvest – usually
from mid August –, the first ripening tests are carried out.
The cellar master and consultants are out in the vineyards.
The level of acid and sugar are measured and the ph value
investigated. Some control measures need to be applied: the
last surplus grapes are cut off and the pruning of some leaves
helps during the last stages of the ripening process. Then the
harvest begins. The best time to start is when the grapes have

eached the physiological ripeness. This differs according to
type of grape, location and climate. Healthy grapes and skins
are the best pre-conditions. Now, the cellar master and the
wine-grower decide on the right moment: The harvest begins!
The ripe grapes are transported to the winery. This is the
‘wage’ for their hard work throughout the year.
The harvest goes on for nearly two months: from the beginning
of September in the early and lower situated vineyards
to end of October for the late grapes and the higher altitudes.
After the pressing process, the young wines will rest and ripen
in the deep cellars.
WINTER – NOTHING BUT QUIETNESS
During the winter months from November to February, the
vineyards are quiet. This is the time, when the vines are cut
back and the structures are repaired. After the stress of the
harvest, even the vines need a chance to relax. It is important
that the wood can ripen in peace as it holds the reserves for
the shoots of the following year. A dry autumn and cold winter
with lots of frost and low temperatures can improve this
process enormously. With the ripening of the wood and the
following resting phase, the circle closes until the next springtime,
when everything starts at the beginning.
GRAPES & MORE
Thirsting for knowledge
Did wine cultivation start in South Tyrol during Roman
times or did it exist before? How did the various
occupations develop? The museum in Kurtatsch invites
you to travel through time – through 10,000 years to be
exact: from Stone Age man, to modern civilisation …
and find the answers to many other questions as well.
www.museumzeitreisemensch.it
3000 years of wine history
Archaeological finds of grape seeds attest to presence
of grape vines as early as the Iron Age. The wine region
of South Tyrol is among the oldest wine growing areas
in Central Europe and of the entire German-speaking
world. ‘Rhaetian wine’ from the Adige Valley already
made an impression on the ancient Romans: The ‘wines
that equalled the best Roman varieties’ were transported
in wooden barrels equipped with iron hoops all the way
to the courts of the Roman emperors.
WINE//AUTOCHTHON GRAPES
Vernatsch
An easily digestible wine for every occasion and every
day. Young, fresh, fruity, dry and soft with little acid.
Harmonic and mild with a fine, well developed cherry
and bitter almond tone. Kalterersee, St. Magdalene,
Grauvernatsch, Meraner and all the other South Tyrolean
Vernatsch wines are suitable for different types
of local meals, go well with a speck and sausage supper
and/or guide you comfortably through any menu.
Gewürztraminer
An aromatic wine with a bouquet of roses and cloves.
Headstrong, dry and strong. With a fine flavour, fullbodied
and intensive on the palate. A good accompaniment
to seafood, prawns and lobster, to curry dishes,
pate and strong cheese. Or simply take it as an aperitif
or dessert wine.
Lagrein
Ruby-red in colour with light violet tones, full bodied
and strong. Fruity and soft with a juicy aroma and soft
tannins. A truly unique wine. Excellent accompaniment
to typical dishes of the local cuisine, with game, red
meat and strong cheese.
MAGAZINE 2008
59

365
DAYS
60 MAGAZINE 2008
EVENTS & HIGHLIGHTS
THERE IS ALWAYS A GOOD TIME TO HAVE A PARTY. SOUTH TYROL OFFERS YOU THE
OPPORTUNITY TO FOLLOW THIS MOTTO ALL YEAR ROUND: FROM THE TRADITIONAL
SPECK FESTIVAL TO PARISH CHURCH EVENTS, FROM JAZZ FESTIVALS WITH AN IN-
TERNATIONAL CAST TO FOLK THEATRE. EVENTS UNDER
www.bolzanosurroundings.info
EVENINGS UNDER A BLUE SKY
Extended opening hours on Tuesdays in Auer during July
and August.
Extended opening hours on Wednesdays in St. Michael/
Eppan in July and August. Extended shopping hours until 10
p.m., festive atmosphere in the traffic-free centre with live
music, street artists, entertainment, music and gastronomic
specialities.
‘Sarner Virwitzmitte’, a special evening in Sarnthein. Every
Wednesday from the end of July to the end of August.
‘s’Traminer Dorfleben’ in Tramin. Every Wednesday from
mid July to the beginning of September the Tramin people
THEATRE//Mild summer nights
present their culture, customs and crafts, linked with entertainment
and extended shopping hours.
Summer Holidays in Jenesien. Every Wednesday evening
during July and August. ‘Schronnenkuchl’, village highlights,
concerts with music bands and jazz bands, family evenings.
July Festival at the Ritten. Small street festivals with culinary
highlights. Every Thursday in July. Alternating in Klobenstein,
Oberbozen and Unterinn.
Extended opening hours on Thursdays during the months
of July and August in the traffic-free town centre of Kaltern.
Extended opening hours on Thursdays in Leifers on 3rd
July, 7th August and 4th September.
‘Laubenzauber’ in Neumarkt. Every Friday in July & August

CURTAIN UP
New City Theatre of Bozen and Concert House, addresses
in South Tyrol with 30 to 50 events each month, ranging from
theatre to ballet, dance and music events, as well as opera
and musicals. Time-table 2007/2008 on
www.ntbz.net or www.theater-bozen.it
CONCERTS & EVENTS
Castle concerts: Castle Rechtenthal in Tramin in June, Castle
Auer, Auer/mid July, Castle Enn near Montan/mid August,
Castle Haderburg near Salurn. In Eppan at the castles of
Englar, Hocheppan and Boymont, at the Lanserhaus residence
and in Kaltern at the castles of Kampan and Sallegg.
Organ concerts in Kaltern and St. Pauls/Eppan
Manifesta 7, International Bi-annual Contemporary and Experimental
Art in South Tyrol and the Trentino
Bolzano Festival Bozen from March to October
Gustav Mahler Jugendorchester
Concerts in Bozen on 22nd March and 20th August
European Union Youth Orchestra
Concert in Bozen on 6th August
International Pianist Competition ‘F. Busoni’
in Bozen in September
Concert evenings ‘Music & Culture’
in Lengmoos, from May to October
Südtirol Jazzfestival Alto Adige in Bozen in June
Runkelstein Music Festival in Bozen in June/July
CULTURE//Bozen city theatre
Eppan Music Summer from 30th June to 9th July at Castle
Englar and Lanserhaus residence, with master courses by Brigitte
Fassbaender
Bozen Dance Summer in July
Kaltern Lake Festival in July/August
Transart, Festival of Contemporary art in autumn
WINE FESTIVALS,
VILLAGE FESTIVALS & OTHER EVENTS
Wine Hiking Day on 27th April
Crocus Festival in Mölten on 27th April
Asparagus Festival in Terlan on 27th April
Maypole Festival in Terlan, Auer and Montan on 1st May
Long Night at the Church in Kaltern on 2nd May
’All in White’ – Kaltern presents its white wines in May
3-day Archway Festival in Salurn at Whitsun
Whitsun Festival in Terlan, 10th-11th May
International Eppan Castle Ride from 10th May to 12th May
‘Vino in Festa’, South Tyrolean Wine Road weeks, 15th May
to 14th June
Bozen Wine tasting
from 15th to 17th May at Castle Maretsch in Bozen
South Tyrolean Pinot Nero Days
in Montan and Neumarkt on 22nd and 23rd May
South Tyrolean Speck Festival in Bozen, 22nd-25th May
Tramin meets a wine-growing region
at Castle Rechtenthal , end of May
MAGAZINE 2008
61

MERRY WITH WINE//Night life in South Tyrol BARTHLMAS//’Goaßlschnöller’
Pasta Festival in Montan, beginning of June
Rudy Giovannini’s Köfele Festival in Leifers, 6th -7th June
Seit Parish Day on 10th June
Wine Cellar Night, South Tyrolean Wine Road, 14th June
100th anniversary of the Kohlern cable-car, 29th June
Mölten Festival in July
Parish Day in Jenesien from 11th-13th July
Gewürztraminer Festival in Tramin, mid of July
Magdalene Parish Festival in Pfatten, 18th -20th July
Magdalene Parish Day near Bozen on 22nd July
Summer Festival in Pinzon/Montan on 22nd July
Wine Culture Weeks
in St. Pauls/Eppan from 24th July to 5th August
Kaltern Market Festival on 26th-27th July
The Festive Table in St. Pauls/Eppan on 29th July
Pasta Festival in Tramin on 2nd August
Knödelbuffet (dumplings) in Mölten, beginning of August
Neumarkt Portico Festival, beginning of August
Lorenzi Night in Bozen and Andrian on 10th August
Wine Festival in Kaltern from 13th-16th August
Oberbozen Parish Day on 15th August
Strudel Festival in Andrian, mid of August
Kaltern Wine Days on 4th-5th September
Leifers Festival, 5th-7th September
St. Pauls Village Festival, 6th-7th September
Vilpian Parish Day on 7th September
Kurtatsch Wine Festival, mid of September
‘Schupfen’ Festival
at the Salten mountain/Jenesien on 21st september
Tramin Autumn Festival in Tramin, 4th-5th October
Tramin Wine Street in Tramin on 18th October
62 MAGAZINE 2008
Lowland Wine Tasting Days in Auer, end of October
Kastelruther Spatzen Festival in Kastelruth,
10th-12th October
TRADITION & CUSTOMS
Leifers Carnival Parade on 27th January
Carnival Parade in Auer on 2nd February
Children’s Egetmann Parade in Tramin on 5th February
Joseph Market in Salurn on 18th March
Markus Market in Auer on 25th April
Fair Market in Leifers on 25th May and 5th October
Marksmen Festival in Aldein, 25th July
Parish Day in Mölten on 14th-15th August
Cattle Drive on ‘Bartlmä’
at the Ritten Alpine meadows on 25th August
Cattle Drive in Aldein in August/September
Folk Music Evening ‘g’sungen und g’spielt’
in Tramin on 4th September
Sarn Parish Day in Sarnthein, 6th-8th September
Cattle Drive in Altrei, end of September
‘Törggele’ Festival in Mölten, beginning of October
Thanksgiving Festival in Girlan/Eppan, 18th October
‘Törggele’ Festival in Eppan/Berg, 25th October
Folk Music Evening ‘s’herbstelet’ in Tramin, end of October
Martini Market and Village Festival with goose drive
in Kurtinig on 11th November
Martini Festival and Shooting Event at the historic shooting
range in St. Michael/Eppan in November
Martini Market in Girlan/Eppan on 11th November
Auer Krampus Race in Auer on 22nd November
Andreas Market in Salurn on 30th November

Bozen Christmas Market
from 27th November to 23rd December
Crib Exhibition in St. Pauls/Eppan
29th November to 6th January
Christmas in Kaltern in Advent
Living Christmas in Neumarkt from 8th to 24th December
Alpine Advent in Sarnthein
during every weekend in December
‘Klöckeln’, custom in the Sarntal, first 3 Thursdays in Advent
SPORTS INFORMATION
Italian Championships in Speed Skating
at the Ritten on 5th-6th January
Europa Cup Run – Downhill & Super G
in Reinswald, from 21st -25th January
Int. Junior Meeting Speed Skating
in Klobenstein on 26th and 27th January
World Championship in curling at the Ritten
26th February to 2nd March
German Ski Championship in Reinswald, 25th to 30th March
Lake Kaltern Half-Marathon on 30th March
Dream Cycling Tours through a sea of blossom
in Tramin from 5th to 19th April
Cultural Hiking Weeks in Tramin (IVV) from 13th-18th April
Eppan Wine Road Run in Girlan/Eppan, in April
Biker Pre-Lunch Drinks in St. Pauls/Eppan in April
International Yacht Regatta
at Lake Kaltern in April/May and September
Traditional Folk Cycling in Andrian on 1st May
Schwarzenbach Cup
int. Table Tennis Tournament in Auer, 9th-12th May
GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS//St. Pauls
International Wine Road Tournament German Shepherds
in Eppan on 10th-11th May
International Triathlon at Lake Kaltern, 17th May
Oldtimermeeting in Bozen on 21st May
South Tyrolean Nostalgy Run
from San Lugano to Montan on 24th May
Walter Trophy for sports marksmen
in Auer, end of May/beginning of June
Etsch Rafting in Branzoll/Pfatten, beginning/mid of June
Italian Table Tennis Championship in Tramin, 9th-21st June
Jeantex TOUR Transalp, Trans-Alpine Cycling
end of stage in Kaltern, end of June
Competition with historic bows
at the bow route in the Eppan Castle Triangle in July
Cycling Race Cup Penser Joch in Sarn Valley on 13th July
’La Vecia Ferovia dela Val de Fiemme’
mountain bike run with starts in Auer, 3rd August
Oldtimer Bike Festival in Leifers on 9th August
Mountain Duathlon in Reinswald/Sarntal on 9th August
South Tyrolean Running Tour
in Neumarkt & surroundings 16th August
International Futures ATP Tennis Tournament
in Rungg/Girlan, mid/end of August
Fit for Business – Company tournament Neumarkt, 5th September
South Tyrolean Marathon & Halfmarathon in Neumarkt, 5th October
Wine-growers Hiking Weeks (IVV) in Tramin
from 12th-17th October and 19th-24th October
Night Horse Race in Jenesien on 28th December
Ice Gala in Bozen, end of December
New Year’s Eve Run ‘Boclassic’
31st December, Bozen city centre
MAGAZINE 2008
63

CULTURE
64 MAGAZINE 2008
MUSEUMS & CHURCHES
THERE ARE 70 MUSEUMS ALL OVER THE REGION:
ARCHAEOLOGY AND CULTURAL HISTORY, NATURAL
HISTORY AND AGRICULTURE. OPENING TIMES AND
INFORMATION ON THE INDIVIDUAL MUSEUMS AT
www.provinz.bz.it/museenfuehrer
www.landesmuseen.it
MUSEUMS & MORE MUSEUMS
The Nature Museum in Bozen offers regular scientific exhibitions.
Main attraction is the sea water aquarium.
Tel. +39 0471 412 964.
At the MMM Firmian near Bozen Reinhold Messner presents
the mountains through art and recounts mountaineering history.
Open from the beginning of March to end of November.
Tel. +39 0471 631 264
Castle Moos-Schulthaus near Eppan is a museum describing
life and culture for the Middle Ages. Regular guided tours. Sun
and Mon closed. Tel. +39 0471 660 139.
In the South Tyrolean Wine Museum in Kaltern, they exhibit
pieces describing the history of wine. Information & guided
tours on Tel. +39 0471 963 168 or 0474 552 087.
The Tramin Village Museum exhibits tools from wine and farming
agriculture, craftsmanship and normal farmhouses. Sun and
Mon closed. Tel. +39 0471 860 695.
The Museum ‘Zeitreise Mensch’ (human time travel) in ‘Ansitz
am Orth’ in Kurtatsch offers some insight into the life of the
Stone Age to Modern Times. Tel. +39 0471 880 267.
In Neumarkt, you can find the Museum for Everyday Culture
with household appliances from 1815-1950. From Easter to All
Saints’ Day: open half day. Closed Sat. Opening times & guided
tours: Tel. +39 0471 812 472 or +39 0471 812 550.
The Fossil Museum in Mölten shows minerals and fossils from
South Tyrol. Guided tours by request at the tourist office.
The Plattner Bienenhof (Platten Bee’s Farmhouse) in Oberbozen,
is South Tyrol’s only apiary museum. Open from Easter to
All Saints’ Day, daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tel. +39 0471 345 350.
The Village Museum in Aldein (May to October) reflects art
and religious culture of the Baroque and Rococo Times. The Mill
museum is particularly special.
In Radein, there is a Geological Museum worth visiting.
The Nature Park House in Truden offers some insight into the
cultural landscapes and the cultural history of the Trudner Horn
Nature Park. Tel. +39 0471 869 247.
Museums are generally closed on Monday.
Detailled information in the local tourist offices!
The South Tyrolean Archaeological Museum or ‘Ötzi Museum’
in Bozen is a must for every visitor to South Tyrol. It gives insight
to different historic epochs in South Tyrol. Undoubtedly, the
major attraction of the museum is Ötzi, the ice-man.
Tel. +39 0471 320 100, www.iceman.it
CHURCHES & LITTLE CHAPELS
Bozen: The Old Gries Parish Church accommodates the famous
Gothic wing altar by Michael Pacher. In the Gothic Franciscan
Church there is a shrine altar with carved wing doors by
Hans Klocker. It is worth visiting the frescoes from the Giotto
School in the Johannis chapel of the Early Gothic Dominican
Church. Also see the Gothic dome at the Waltherplatz.
The Parish Church in Terlan is a high-Gothic building of the
14th Century. The small Roman side tower was built in the 13th
Century and the colourfully glazed tiled roof of the Late- Gothic
tower from the 16th Century. The frescoes of the ‘Bozen School’
are from the 14th Century.
The Gothic Parish church in St. Pauls/Eppan, the ‘country cathedral’
was built between 1460 and 1560. Due to the long building
time, it has elements of the Renaissance and Baroque.
The ruins of the Basilica St. Peter in Kaltern/Altenburg are a
three-nave basilica from the time of Christianisation (4th Century).
In the porphyry rock behind the church, there are 10 shelllike
hollows from around 3,000 B.C.
The apse of the St. Jacob’s chapel on the hill of Kastelaz, just
above Tramin, is decorated by fighting mythical figures in a
ghostly round dance (around 1,200 A.D.).
The chapel of Castle Hocheppan houses Roman frescoes, one
of them being ’The Dumpling Eater’.
The St. Peter’s church near Auer is a Gothic building from the
15th Century. The Roman church tower was built during the
12th Century. The church houses the oldest playable organ in
South Tyrol.
The Stephen’s church near Pinzon in Montan with its famous
Hans Klocker altar is particularly worth a visit. The keys are available
on request in the church hall, Tel. +39 0471 820 781
In Leifers, it is possible to visit the St. Peter’s chapel at the Köfele,
which was built during the 13th Century. It has a round apse.
The ‘Klösterle’ hospital near Neumarkt was built in 1220 and
extended in 1300. It is one of the best kept hospitals in Europe. It
is said, that Dürer stayed here overnight during his Italian travels.
The Roman Cemetery church in Mölten houses a very valuable
sculpture: the Pietà, made of cast stone (1440).
The ‘Kommende Lengmoos’ on the Ritten mountain, which
was built around 1,200 A.D., was a place for the emperors to
stop on their way to Rome.
The churches in St. Cyprian/Sarnthein, St. Nikolaus/Durnholz
and St. Valentin/Gentersberg house particularly valuable
fresco cycles.

An excursion to the Seiser Alm and into the Dolomites is
not only something for mountaineers and adventurers. The
wide high-Alpine meadows and jagged mountain peaks are
fascinating natural landscapes.
A short trip to the former spa town of Meran is also a must.
Watch the art nouveau architecture and charming promenades,
which bear witness to times gone by. It is also worth
seeing the historic centres of Klausen, Brixen and Sterzing,
as well as Glurns, the smallest town in South Tyrol.
Lake Garda is approximately 80 km away. With its lovely,
characteristic villages and idyllic places, it is a popular holiday
destination. A varied summer programme is on offer at
the Arena of Verona, where entertainment is guaranteed
for all opera lovers. Venice is approx. 220 km away and can
be visited on a day trip.
Further information about organised tours is available in the
local tourist offices.
IN & AROUND SOUTH TYROL
AGENDA
EXPERIENCE SOUTH TYROL IN ALL ITS BEAUTY. NOWHERE ELSE IS THIS
POSSIBLE THAN IN THE SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL: IN PICTURESQUE WINE
AND IDYLLIC MOUNTAIN VILLAGES OR IN THE BUZZING TOWN OF BOZEN.
YOU WILL FIND EVERYTHING FROM MEDITERRANEAN TO HIGH-ALPINE.
SOME POINTS YOU SHOULD NOT MISS WHILE IN SOUTH TYROL:
MERAN//Thermal baths MERAN//Castle Trauttmansdorff
BRIXEN//Cathedral
CASTLE TRAUTTMANSDORFF
The gardens of Castle Trauttmansdorff are worth seeing not
only because of the variety of fauna. The castle, the former
winter residence of Empress Sissi of Austria, houses the
‘Touriseum’. This museum gives you some entertaining insight
into 200 years of Alpine tourism. For further information
and concerts: www.trauttmansdorff.it
MERANO THERMAL BATHS
An oasis of physical and spiritual health, rich in tradition in
the famous spa town. Wellness and proven therapies in the
midst of unique architecture.
www.thermemeran.it
TIME TRAVEL IN SOUTH TYROL
Enjoyable tours with Vintage Cars through wonderful vineyards,
romantic villages and impressive mountain pass roads
in South Tyrol and further away. You can find detailed road
books to the greatest day and half-day tours (in German)
listed under ’Motorgeflüster’. See
www.bolzanosurroundings.info
MAGAZINE 2008
65

CONTACT
DIALLING ITALY – SOUTH TYROL
0039.0471...
BOZEN MOUNTAIN & VALLEY
Waltherplatz 8 • I-39100 Bozen
Tel. 0471 307 000 • Fax 0471 980 128
www.bolzano-bozen.it
www.jenesien.net
TOURIST OFFICE TERLAN
Dr.-Weiser-Platz 2 • I-39018 Terlan
Tel. 0471 257 165 • Fax 0471 257 830
www.terlan.info
TOURIST OFFICE ANDRIAN
Wehrburgstraße 1a • I-39010 Andrian
Tel. 0471 510 100 • Fax 0471 510 642
www.andrian.info
66 MAGAZINE 2008
ALL ADDRESSES AT A GLANCE
TOURIST OFFICE EPPAN
Rathausplatz 01 • I-39057 Eppan a.d. Weinstraße
Tel. 0471 662 206 • Fax 0471 663 546
www.eppan.com
TOURIST OFFICE KALTERN
Marktplatz 8 • I-39052 Kaltern a.d. Weinstraße
Tel. 0471 963 169 • Fax 0471 963 469
www.kaltern.com
TOURIST OFFICE TRAMIN
Julius-v.-Payer-Str. 1 • I-39040 Tramin a.d. Weinstraße
Tel. 0471 860 131 • Fax 0471 860 820
www.tramin.com
TOURIST OFFICE SOUTH TYROLEAN LOWLANDS
Hptm.-Schweiggl-Platz 8 • I-39040 Kurtatsch a.d. Weinstraße
Tel. 0471 880 100 • Fax. 0471 880 451
www.suedtiroler-unterland.it
TOURIST OFFICE SALURN
Rathausplatz 2 • I-39040 Salurn a.d. Weinstraße
Tel. + Fax 0471 884 279
tourismusverein.salurn@rolmail.net
TOURIST BOARD
SOUTH OF SÜDTIROL
Pillhof 1 • I-39057 Frangart (Bozen)
Tel. 0471 633 488 • Fax 0471 633 367
info@suedtirols-sueden.info
www.bolzanosurroundings.info
TOURIST OFFICE CASTELFEDER
Hauptplatz 5 • I-39040 Auer
Tel. 0471 810 231 • Fax 0471 811 138
www.castelfeder.info
TOURIST OFFICE
LEIFERS BRANZOLL PFATTEN
Kennedystr. 75d • I-39055 Leifers
Tel. 0471 950 420 • Fax. 0471 951 226
www.leifers-info.it
TOURIST OFFICE MÖLTEN
Dorf • I-39010 Mölten
Tel. 0471 668 282 • Fax 0471 667 228
www.moelten.net
TOURIST OFFICE SARNTAL
Europastraße 15 • I-39058 Sarnthein
Tel. 0471 623 091 • Fax 0471 622 350
www.sarntal.com
TOURIST OFFICE RITTEN
Dorfstraße 5 • I-39054 Klobenstein
Tel. 0471 356 100 • Fax 0471 356 799
www.ritten.com
TOURIST OFFICE ALDEIN RADEIN
Dorf 34 • I-39040 Aldein
Tel. 0471 886 800 • Fax. 0471 886 666
www.aldein-radein.it
TOURIST OFFICE
TRUDNER HORN NATURE PARK
Am Kofl 2 • I-39040 Truden
Tel. 0471 869 078 • Fax 0471 869 278
www.trudnerhorn.com