then drawn through, <strong>and</strong> the thread tightened in the buttonhole knot which results. This com- pletes the first group <strong>of</strong> leaflets. <strong>The</strong> needle is then again thrust into the braid at the left side <strong>of</strong> the space, <strong>and</strong> the second pair <strong>of</strong> leaflets begun. After the leaflets are tied together with the but- tonhole knot, the working thread may be carried alternately over the leaves <strong>and</strong> under the midrib, circling the knot a sufB.cient number <strong>of</strong> times to make a wheel or rosette at the intersection <strong>of</strong> the leaflets. Leaf Insertion. An insertion with leaves, in darning stitch is 3xcellent where a heavy, rich eifect is desired. <strong>The</strong> working thread is attached to the end <strong>of</strong> the space at which the first terminal leaf <strong>of</strong> the inser- tion is to be worked. This thread is then carried to the opposite end <strong>of</strong> the space, thrust through a single loop <strong>of</strong> the braid, <strong>and</strong> carried back, un- twisted, to the starting <strong>point</strong>. It is then carried to the left side <strong>of</strong> the space, <strong>and</strong> attached to the braid at that <strong>point</strong> by having the needle thrust Fie. I Leaf Insektion. under not more than two threads <strong>of</strong> the open edge <strong>of</strong> the braid. <strong>The</strong> thread is then carried to the right side <strong>of</strong> the space, <strong>and</strong> caught into the braid in the same manner at a <strong>point</strong> exactly opposite the <strong>point</strong> <strong>of</strong> attachment on the left side. <strong>The</strong> thread is then brought back to the mid- rib, or two long threads. <strong>The</strong> needle is then thrust behind all the threads, <strong>and</strong> drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration for insertion with branches, Fig. 34. <strong>The</strong> thread is then carried, for a second time, around the terminal or first leaf, which is then filled from <strong>point</strong> to knot with a close succession <strong>of</strong> darn- ing stitches over <strong>and</strong> under the threads outlining the leaf. At the completion <strong>of</strong> this leaf, the thread is carried around the left leaf, <strong>and</strong> passed again throusfh the braid at its <strong>point</strong>. This makes three 10 foundation threads on one side, <strong>and</strong> two on the other side <strong>of</strong> the leaf. When an effect not so heavy is desired, the thread passing all around the leaf may be omitted. This makes two foundation threads on one side <strong>and</strong> one on the other, <strong>and</strong> is somewhat more difficult to dam. This leaf is then darned, after which the leaf on the right side is finished in a similar manner. <strong>The</strong> outlines for the second pair <strong>of</strong> side leaves are then made <strong>and</strong> tied to the midrib with a but- tonhole knot as were the first two. <strong>The</strong> working thread is then passed one <strong>and</strong> a half times around the two threads <strong>of</strong> the midrib that is to form the middle <strong>of</strong> the next trio <strong>of</strong> leaves. <strong>The</strong> needle is passed through the knot each time at the <strong>point</strong> <strong>of</strong> this leaf. This is at the base <strong>of</strong> the completed trio <strong>of</strong> leaves above. <strong>The</strong> middle leaf is then filled with the darning stitch, as are each <strong>of</strong> the side leaves. <strong>The</strong> work proceeds in this way until the entire space is filled. Quster Insertion. This is one <strong>of</strong> the most charming <strong>and</strong> use- ful <strong>of</strong> the insertions, <strong>and</strong> the ease with which it is made increases its popularity. It is equally appropriate for straight or curved spaces. Two twisted parallel bars ^re worked, <strong>and</strong> the thread for the third bar carried across <strong>and</strong> overcast nearly to the middle, when the three bars, two twisted <strong>and</strong> one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but- tonhole stitches, worked over them close together. <strong>The</strong> twisting <strong>of</strong> the third bar is then completed. <strong>The</strong> first <strong>and</strong>- third barl <strong>of</strong> each group should be j ust loose or slack enough to admit <strong>of</strong> their being fas- tened, by the buttonhole stitches, to the middle bar, without drawing the braid out <strong>of</strong> p<strong>lace</strong>. <strong>The</strong> first bar <strong>of</strong> each succeeding trio should be p<strong>lace</strong>d close to ne. 37. Cluster inser- *^« ^^^t bar <strong>of</strong> the preced- TioH. ing groap.
loosely. a Network Stitches.