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April, 1951 JOURNAL OF GREAT BRITAIN 27<br />

there were affected, but it was significant that every one of a number of Lemaireocereus pruinosus seedlings in<br />

different parts of the house were all killed. With one or two other plants such as Astridia velutinum one plant<br />

was killed whilst the plants next to it were all right.<br />

I do not intend to repeat all the directions which I have given in the past as, if you wish to read about any<br />

section of the growing year, you can easily refer to one of the back Journals where you will find articles in " Seed<br />

Raising," "Re-potting," "Watering," "Taking Cuttings," "Frame Culture," and so on.<br />

If you are unable to maintain a temperature of about 70 degrees, do not sow your Cacti and other Succulent<br />

seeds but wait until the general warmth of the greenhouse increases to something nearer that level. I have sown<br />

about 230 different kinds of Cacti and most of them are coming up well. One or two kinds are not up yet although<br />

they have been sown for three weeks now, but I do not worry, they usually come up in their own good time. I<br />

have found one bad point with my propagating frame and that is that I had sheets of glass laid on the top. The<br />

water condensing on this was dropping back on to the seedlings and there is nothing worse to start an attack<br />

of damping off than this. I then devised a sloping attachment to place on the frame which gave a four-inch rise<br />

to one side. The moisture which now condenses on the sloping glass runs down without dropping on the seedlings.<br />

I have made sure this season that the seedlings get some air at all times. It is fatal to have an air-tight enclosure<br />

for these seedlings once they are up. You must provide some ventilation at all times, and not only during the day.<br />

For the past few years I had been able to get all my plants re-potted before January was out, but this year it<br />

has been so wet and dull that I did not think that it was advisable to move the plants so early. I therefore, waited<br />

until well into February before starting and I have now just about finished ; and it took me nearly a fortnight<br />

working every day and nearly all day to do this. It was apparent to me that it was beneficial to re-pot each plant<br />

every year. In one or two cases I found that I had re-potted a few in July, 1949, as I always mark each label on the<br />

back with the date of re-potting, I had not done these plants in January, 1950. It was only in one or two such<br />

plants that I found any trace of root-bug. I have always said that the best way to cultivate root-bug (if you do want<br />

it) is to refrain from re-potting a plant each year. The dead roots and overcrowded pots showed that it was high<br />

time that most of the plants were moved. I do not always give the plant a larger pot, it depends on the type of<br />

plant and the amount of growth which it has made as to whether it gets a larger pot or not. Of course, if no<br />

larger pot is required the plant is never put back into the same pot, but is given a fresh, clean one. Of course, as<br />

usual, I had an awful job to find room for all the plants once I had re-potted them. Some of them had made very<br />

good growth although last season was not a good one for growth. One plant of Mammillaria bocasana (illustrated<br />

in a back Journal), has grown to seven and a half inches across and is six and a half inches high. Of all the hundreds<br />

of plants which I had handled, it was this one which I had to drop head down into the old soil and rubbish. It<br />

can be well imagined what this plant looked like decorated with dead roots, soil, charcoal, etc., Still, the aid of an<br />

old tooth-brush soon brought the plant back to normal.<br />

I find that my Mammillarias are increasing in numbers as well as in size that I am already forced to part with some<br />

of the other succulents I have raised from seed during the last four or five years. I had restarted my collection<br />

after the war and did not imagine that it would be so soon when I should have to start parting with some. In<br />

the first place I sowed seeds of any kinds that came to hand but now I have to be more particular and stick to certain<br />

kinds only. Once the greenhouse gets near to capacity, one has to make up one's mind as to whether to specialise<br />

in one genus or not. It is quite impossible in the averaged size greenhouse to hope to house a representative<br />

collection of all the genera of Cacti and, when once the house is full, it is much better to consider carefully whether<br />

you have any real preference for any particular genus. I do not suggest that you turn out everything but the one<br />

kind, but don't deliberately add to the numbers of the plants except those which you favour. In time your own<br />

special fancy will have grown to such proportions that it becomes imperative that you get rid of a few more genera.<br />

Whatever may be said to the opposite, it is only by specialising in one or two genera that you are able to obtain<br />

a really comprehensive collection, and it is, I feel sure, much better to be master of one genera than be a Jack of<br />

All types. A man may have five hundred different Cacti in his greenhouse and have nothing out of the ordinary,<br />

but if he had three hundred different Mammillarias he would have a collection not only very representative, but<br />

something to be proud of showing his Cactus friends as well.<br />

Watch your Lithops from now on as some will be ready for their first watering this year, before others. Wait<br />

until the old stem has almost dried up before watering. This may be sometime in April, but as late as May in others.<br />

The policy of placing chips of stone on the surface of pots containing Lithops is a common one, but it is often almost<br />

impossible to see the state of the soil underneath, and so one cannot tell when a plant needs water. A better plan<br />

if you feel you must have some stones on the surface is to see that the stones are around the base of the plant only,<br />

thus leaving the rest of the surface exposed to view.<br />

Meanwhile, " Good Growing," plenty of air, but steady with the water can.

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