Republic P-47D Thunderbolt Instructions - Testors

Republic P-47D Thunderbolt Instructions
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HISTORY
Known as the "Jug", the Thunderbolt proved
herself to be one of the most rugged fighters of
World War II.
Powered by a 2,300 hp. Pratt & Whitney R-2800
engine and armed with eight .50 caliber machine
guns, the P-47was uniquely suited to fly ground
support and interdiction missions against ground
targets.
When called upon to fly cover for American
bombers, the "Jug" proved outstanding there as
well. The turbocharged engine and 13 foot
diameter propeller, along with long-range fuel
tanks enabled the P-47 to easily fly into Germany
from bases in England.
Thunderbolt...feared by the enemy and respected
by her pilots; one of the Second World War's
finest fighters.
SPECIFICATIONS (P-47D-23-RA)
Engine 1 Pratt & Whitney
R-2800-59 2,300 hp, air cooled,
18 cyl. radial
Wing Span 40ft 9 5/16 in
Length 36 ft 1 3/4 in
Height 14 ft 8 1/16 in
Weight 9,900 Ibs (empty)
17,000 Ibs (max. loaded)
Max. Speed 426 mph @ 30,000 ft
Service Ceiling 40,000 ft
Range (Max.) 800 miles @ 10,000 ft
REFERENCES
Camouflage & Markings No. 15
Republic P-47 Thunderbolt U.S.A.A.F, E.T.O. &
M.T.O., 1942-1945
(De Worde House Pub. 1974)
Thunderbolt, A Documentary History of the
Republic P-47,
Roger Freeman (Charles Scribner's Sons)
Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, Arco-Aircorn
Aviations Series No. 2
Ernest R. Me Dowell
(Arco Pub. Company, Inc)
Aerodata International, Fighters of World
War II, Vol. 1
(Squadron/Signal Publications)
BEFORE STARTING
1. Study the illustrations and sequence of assembly
before beginning.
2. Decide how much detail you wish to add to
your model and whether or not you intend to
modify or "convert" the basic model in any
way. Study carefully all available reference
material before beginning to ensure an authentic
model.
3. Due to the amount of parts in this kit, do not
detach the parts from the runner of the parts
tree until you need them. This helps avoid
confusion and lost parts.
4. When cementing the parts together, check the
way one part fits together with another. This
assures a neat job with no surprises.
5. Always remember when working with plastic
model cement and paint to keep your work
area well ventilated. The fumes from plastic
modeling products can be harmful if inhaled.
PREPARATION OF PARTS
1. Never tear parts off the runner (parts tree).
Use a Testor Hobby Knife, fingernail clippers,
or a small wire cutters to remove the parts
from the tree.
2. It is possible some parts may require a little
attention with a file or sandpaper to ensure a
proper fit and neat appearance. Hobby files
and Testor Hobby Sanding Films appropriate
for model building are available in most good
hobby shops.
No. 520
3. If you desire you may fill any seams (where
parts go together) or imperfections with Tester
Contour Putty for Plastic Models which is also
available at good hobby shops.
PAINTING
You can obtain an excellent finish on your model
using Testor finish preparation products and
paints. Detailed descriptions of paint types and
color are included on the pages that follow.
Good brushes are essential for proper detailing.
Testor Model Master brushes are recommended
and available at good hobby stores. Be sure you
have the entire selection for all your modeling
needs. Always dean them in Testor thinner, wash
in soap and water, and store with bristles upward
when not in use.
Wash plastic parts before detaching them from
the parts tree. Warm water and liquid dishwashing
detergent will remove the oils left from the
manufacturing process. Let the parts dry and
avoid excessive handling. Immediately before
painting, wipe the parts with a "tac rag" (available
at auto parts stores) to remove dust and lint.
Most small parts are best painted while still attached
to the parts tree. You can also detach
them and hold with tweezers or "magic" tape
while painting. Paint in one direction only. If your
paint is the correct thickness brush strokes will
disappear as the color dries. If the paint seems
too thick, thin with Testor Paint Thinner. Wheels
may be detached from the parts tree and fit onto
toothpicks or matchsticks for painting. Just hold
the paintbrush against the edge of the wheel and
rotate the stick and wheel to obtain a neat finish.
Let the paint dry completely before handling.
When the parts are dry, assemble the model,
following the directions closely. Remember
cement will not hold strongly to painted surfaces.
Use your Testor Hobby Knife to carefully remove
paint from all surfaces to be cemented. After you
have assembled the model you can touchup
areas where cement might have marred the finish.

Tweezers will be useful in assembling the
many small parts in this kit. The type used
by postage stamp collectors is recommended.
Your P-47D model may be built as either a
Bubbletop or a Razorback version. One
decal marking and color scheme has been
selected for each version. Consult the
drawings on pgs. 6 and 7 and box top photos
to decide which version you prefer before
proceeding.
1 SUBASSEMBLIES
Preliminary Painting
Paint parts as indicated by Italic letter
callouts using the COLOR KEY on pg. 3.
Assembly
1. Cement drop tank halves 44A, 44B and
45A, 45B together making two tanks.
Glue bomb halves B42 and B43
together. Cement seat B7 to pilot's
armor plate B6 as shown. If you are
building the Razorback version, cut or
break off the headrest portion of B6
along the scored line. Glue propeller
hub halves 31 and 32 together.
2. Cement tailwheel tire B24 to tailwheel
strut 23. Slip (do not cement) one tire
B18 over axle on each landing gear
strut 16 and 17 and fasten by carefully
gluing one wheel hub 19 to the protuding
tip of each axle. Do not allow
glue to touch tires or they will not roll.
Malngear
(left side shown)
The Testor Model Master paint system is
specially designed to be used on military
models. The Preliminary Painting instructions
on this sheet indicate which Model
Master colors to use as indicated by name
and Federal Standard (FS) number. These
colors are called out by bold Italic type.
Wherever Model Master colors are not
applicable the required Testor color will be
called out by number and name in regular
bold type.
Drop Tanks
make 2
446 (45B)
Pilot's Seat
B7
Note: Part numbers in parentheses () are
for a second or opposite assembly.
44A (45A)
Cor D
remove for
""L—•- Razorback
version only
B6
Liquid cement, Testor #3502, is recommended
for construction since it can produce
the neatest, quickest, and strongest glue
joints. Apply small amounts of cement,
using the tip of a Testor Model Master No.
2 brush, to the surfaces to be joined while
holding the parts in place. Do not use large
amounts of cement.
Tailwheel
C :fuae
Bomb
B42
B43
Propeller Hub
31
» B24
L :atripes
E -.overall

No. 520
fm FUSELAGE/ENGINE
Preliminary Painting
Paint parts as indicated by Italic letter
callouts using the COLOR KEY below.
Assembly
1. Cement cockpit floor B2 to projecting
pins between locators inside right
fuselage half 7. Note: Pin at rear of
floor should project upwards. Cement
tab at bottom of pilot armor plate into
slot in floor. Glue left fuselage half 3 to
right fuselage half 7. Cement turbine
exhaust/tailwheel well panel 25 into slot
on underside of fuselage.
2. Cement intake lip 29 inside cowling 28
as shown. Slip (do not cement)
propeller hub into pitch jig B34 with
flange side facing up. Glue pins on
propeller blades B33 into sockets on
hub and gently twist blades in direction
indicated until trailing edge of blades
touch flange on pitch jig. Set propeller
assembly aside to dry.
3. Cement engine B30 into backside of
cowling, making sure that key in top of
cowling fits into notch at top of engine.
Slip (do not cement) propeller shaft into
hole in front of crankcase and fasten in
place by carefully cementing retainer
hub B35 into projecting portion of
propeller shaft. Do not allow glue to
touch engine or propeller will not rotate.
COLOR KEY
A No. 1749 Flat Black FS 37038
B No. 1715 Interior Green FS 34151
C No. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178
D No. 1725 Neutral Gray FS 36270
E No. 1711 Olive Drab FS 34087
F No. 1704 Armor Sand FS 30277
G No. 1768 Flat White FS 37875
H No. 1138 Gray
J No. 1147 Black
K No. 1150 Flat Red
L No. 1169 Flat Yellow
M No. 1170 Flat Light Tan
N No. 1180 Steel
P No. 1183 Rubber
Fuselage Assembly
Engine Cowling AMwnbly
29
B
Preliminary Painting
Crankcase B30
A :magnetoa
A -.backing plate
N -.engine cylinders
J :pushrods
H -.crankcaie
crankcase
B30
25

\J WINGS /FUSELAGE
Preliminary Painting
Paint parts as indicated by italic letter
callouts using the COLOR KEY on below.
Assembly
1. Cement left landing gear strut
assembly into locating lugs inside left
lower wing 15. Note that oleo scissor
faces forward and spoked wheel hub
faces Inward. Glue machine gun
barrels B20 to position shown in drawing
making sure that B20 butts against rib
inside lower wing. Cement upper wing
half 22 to lower wing half 15. Repeat
procedure for right wing using lower
wing half 14, right gear strut assembly,
machine guns B20 and upper wing
half 21.
2. Cement left and right stabilizers 27 and
26 into slots on either side of rear
fuselage as shown. Make sure that
stabilizers are lined up correctly.
Cement left and right wings to fuselage.
Glue engine cowling assembly to front
of fuselage. Again, check cowling,
wings and stabilizers to make sure they
all line up straight, then set aside to dry.
COLOR KEY
A No. 1749 Flat Black FS 37038
B No. 1715 Interior Green FS 34151
C No. 1790 Chrome Silver FS 17178
D No. 1725 Neutral Gray FS 36270
E No. 1711 Olive Drab FS 34087
F No. 1704 Armor Sand FS 30277
G No. 1768 Flat White FS 37875
H No. 1138 Gray
J No. 1147 Black
K No. 1150 Flat Red
L No. 1169 Flat Yellow
M No. 1170 Flat Light Tan
N No. 1180 Steel
P No. 1183 Rubber
Wings
Left Wing shown
scissor
faces
forward
Wings/Engine Cowling/Fuselage
Note: part numbers in parentheses ()
are for right wing assembly
left strut assembly
(right - opposite assembly)
22 (21)
15(14)

No. 520 P-47D Thunderbolt
Votre modele P-47D peut etre construit en version Bubbletop ou Razorback. Les decalcomanies et les
couleurs ont ete selectionnees pour chacun des modeles. Avant de commencer, se reporter aux dessins
des pages 6 et 7 ainsi qu'aux photos situees sur la boTte pour decider quelle version vous preferez.
1SOUS ASSEMBLAGE
Peinture preliminaire
Peindre les pieces en suivant les indications en italique dans la LISTE DES COULEURS situee a la page 3.
Assemblage
1. Coller les moities de reservoir 44A - 44B et 45A - 45B ensemble pour obtenir deux reservoirs. Coller les moities de bombe
B42 et B43 ensemble. Coller le siege B7 sur la plaque armee B6 comme indique. Si vous construisez la version Razorback,
ouper ou casser la partie repose-tete de B6 en suivant le trait grav6. Coller les moiti6s du moyeu de I'h6lice 31 et 32.
2. Coller le pneu de la roue arriere B24 sur la jambe de la roue 23. Glisser (ne pas coller) un pneu B18 sur I'essieu de chaque
ambe de train d'atterrissage 16 et 17 et immobiliser le tout en collant soigneusement un moyeu de roue 19 sur I'extremite de
essieu qui depasse. Ne pas mettre de code sur les roues, cela les empecherait de tourner.
Remarque : Les numeros de piece entre parentheses () concernent le deuxieme montage sur le cote oppos6.
Drop tanks make 2 = 2 reservoirs largables
Bomb = Bombe
Overall = General
Stripes = Traits
Fuse = Fuse
Pilot's seat = Siege du pilote
Maingear (left side shown) = Train principal (cote gauche illustre)
Tailwheel = Roue arriere
Propeller hub = Moyeu de I'helice
Remove for Razorback version only = Retirer pour la version Razorback seulement.
2 FUSELAGE / MOTEUR
Peindre les pieces en suivant les indications en italique dans la LISTE DES COULEURS situee ci-dessous.
Assemblage
1. Coller le sol du cockpit B2 sur les tiges qui depassent & I'interieur du fuselage droit, moiti6 7. Remarque : La tige situ6e a I'ariere
du sol du cockpit doit pointer vers le haut. Coller la languette situee au bas de la plaque armee du pilote dans la fente
ituee dans le sol. Coller la moitie gauche du fuselage 3 a la moitie droite 7. Coller la turbine d'echappement et le puits de la
oue arriere 25 dans la fente situee sous le fuselage.
2. Coller la levre d'entree d'air 29 a I'interieur du capot moteur 28 comme indique. Glisser (ne pas coller) le moyeu de I'helice
dans le pitch jig B34 semelle vers le haut. Coller les tiges des pales de I'helice B33 dans les emboTtures situees sur le moyeu
ourner doucement les pales dans le sens indique jusqu'a ce que le bord de fuite des pales touchent la semelle au niveau du
pitch jig . Laisser secher I'helice.
3. Coller le moteur B30 dans I'arriere du capot moteur, en vous assurant que la c!6 situee en haut du capot moteur s'encastre
dans I'encoche situee en haut du moteur. Glisser (ne pas coller) I'arbre de I'helice dans I'orifice situe a I'avant du carter et serrer
ensemble en collant soigneusement le moyeu de retenue B35 a la partie de I'arbre de I'helice qui depasse. Ne pas mettre de
olle sur le moteur, sinon I'helice ne tournera pas.

LISTE DES COULEURS
A No. 1749 NoirFS 37038
B No. 1715 Vert interieur FS 34151
C No. 1790 Chrome argent FS 17178
D No. 1725 GrisneutreFS 36270
E No. 1711 Kaki FS 34087
F No. 1704 Sable FS 30277
G No. 1768 Blanc FS 37875
H No. 1138Gris
No. 1147Noir
K No. 1150 Rouge
L No. 1169Jaune
M No. 1170 Blanc casse
N No. 1180 Metallise
P No. 1183 Caoutchouc
Fuselage assembly = Assemblage du fuselage
Pilot's seat assembly = Assemblage du siege du pilote
nside = Interieur
Engine cowling assembly = Assemblage du capot moteur
Hub assembly = Assemblage du moyeu
Blades = Pales
Tips = Extremites
Preliminary painting Crancase B30 = Peinture preliminaire du carter B30
Magnetos = Magnetos
Engine cylinders = Cylindres du moteur
Pushrods= Tiges de culbuteur
Crankcase = Carter
Backing plate = Plaque d'appui
Crankcase = Carter
3 AILES / FUSELAGE
Peindre les pieces en suivant les indications en italique dans la LISTE DES COULEURS situee ci-dessous.
Assemblage
1. Coller la jambe du train d'atterrissage gauche dans les oreilles de centrage situees dans I'aile inferieure gauche 15. Veuillez
noter que I'oleo scissor est situe a I'avant et que le moyeu de la roue a rayons est vers Pinterieur. Coller les cylindres des
mitrailleuses B20 dans la position indiquee par le dessin en vous assurant que B20 bute contre la cannelure a I'interieur de I'aile
nferieure. Coller la moitie superieure de I'aile 22 a la moitie inferieure de I'aile 15. Faire la merme operation pour I'aile droite a
aide de la moitie d'aiie inferieure 14, de la jambe du train d'atterrissage droit B20 et de la moitie d'aile superieure 21.
2. Coller les stabilisateurs gauche et droite 27 et 26 dans les fentes situes de part et d'autre du fuselage arriere comme illustre.
S'assurer que les stabilisateurs soient correctement alignes. Coller les ailes droite et gauche contre le fuselage. Coller le capot
moteur sur I'avant du fuselage. Verifier a nouveau si le capot moteur, les ailes et les stabilisateurs sont bien alignes puis laisser
echer.
Wings = Ailes
Left wing shown = Aile gauche illustree
Note : part number in parentheses () are for right wing assembly = Remarque : Les numeros de piece entre
parentheses () concement I'aile droite
nterior of wheel wells = Interieur des puits de roues
Gun barrels = Cylindres des mitrailleuses
Scissor faces forward - Scissor oriente vers I'avant
Left strut assembly (right = opposite assembly) = Assemblage de la jambe gauche (droite = assemblage du
cote oppose). Wings / Engine Cowling / Fuselage = Ailes / Capot moteur / Fuselage
Engine cowling assembly = Assemblage du capot moteur

Remarque : Les pieces en plastique transparent collent mieux avec la colle blanche. Celle-ci ne ternit
pas le plastique et le resultat obtenu est plus joli qu'avec une colle ordinaire pour modeles
reduits.
4 Assemblage de la verriere
Peindre les pieces en suivant les indications en italique dans la LISTE DES COULEURS situee a la page 4.
Assemblage
1. Version Bubbletop seulement: Coller la decalcomanie des instruments 1 sur le tableau de bord B5. Coller le tableau de bord
ur les tiges situees dans la partie inferieure de I'encadrement du pare-brise du cockpit 4. Coller I'encadrement du pare-brise du
ockpit au haut du fuselage. Coller le pilote dans son siege (optionnel). Coller le pare-brise sur la partie plate a I'avant du cockpit.
Coller la verriere sur le cadre prevu a cet effet 11, puis coller I'encadrement du pare-brise du cockpit en position ouverte ou
ermee. Coller I'antenne radio B41 sur le dos du fuselage.
1. Version Razorback seulement: Coller la decalcomanie des instruments 1 sur le tableau de bord B5. Coller le carenage 48 a
arriere de I'ouverture du cockpit dans I'encadrement du pare-brise du cockpit 4A. Coller le tableau de bord B5 sur les tiges
ituees dans la partie inferieure de I'encadrement du pare-brise. Coller I'encadrement du pare-brise du cockpit en haut du fuseage.
Coller la vitre pare-balles dans la fente situee a I'avant du cockpit. Coller le pilote dans son siege (optionnel). Coller le parebrise
sur la partie plate a I'avant du cockpit. Coller la verriere en position ouverte ou fermee. Coller I'antenne radio B41 sur le
dos du fuselage. y
Remarque : II est plus facile de peindre et d'apposer les decalcomanies si les equipements destines aux ailes et/ou les armes
ne sont pas encore colles,
5 ASSEMBLAGE FINAL
Peindre les pieces en suivant les indications en italique dans la LISTE DES COULEURS situee a la page 4.
Assemblage
1. Coller la roue arriere (a partir de I'etape 1) dans I'embofture a cote du puits a roue. Coller les trappes principals des trains
d'atterrissage droit et gauche 36 et 37 sur leurs jambes de trains d'atterrissage respectifs. Coller les trappes interieures droite et
gauche 38 et 39 sur le bord interieur des puits a roues comme illustre.
2. Coller une des lumieres de navigation sur I'entaille situee a chaque extremite d'aile. Coller le tube du pilote B40 dans I'orifice
itue dans le bord d'attaque de I'aile gauche. Coller la bombe (a partir de I'etape 1) dans I'orifice prevu a cet effet dans le bas du
uselage. Coller un reservoir largable (a partir de I'etape 1) dans les orifices prevus a cet effet dans les pylones situes sous les
ailes.
3. Votre modele est maintenant termine. Vous pouvez maintenant y appliquer les decalcomanies restantes et effectuer les
dernieres finitions.
Bubbletop = Bubbletop
Frames = Cadres
Canopy = Verriere
nterior = Interieur
Windscreen = Pare-brise
Razorback = Razorback
Frames = Cadres
Canopy = Verriere
nterior = Interieur
Windscreen = Pare-brise
Bulletproof glass = Vitre pare-balles
Remove (Razorback only) = Retirer (Modele Razorback seulement)

Red = Rouge
Lens = Lumiere
Drop tank = Reservoir largable
Bomb.- Bombe
nside - Interieur
Tailwheel = Roue arriere
Drop tank ~ Reservoir largable
Green = Vert
Lens = Lumiere
P-47D, 61 erne Escadron de Combat, 56eme Groupe de Combat, Seme Air Force; Boxted, R.U. Pilote par
des pilotes chevronnes tels que le Lt. Col. Francis E. Gabreski avec 28 victoires a son actif, chiffre plus tard
evue a la hausse avec 31 victoires.
LISTE DES COULEURS
FS38118Grisbataille
FS 36440 Gris mouette
FS 17178 Chrome argent
FS 37038 Noir
FS 37875 Blanc
No. 1150 Rouge
REMARQUE = Pas de decalcomanie 18 en forme de bande noire
Chrome silver) = (Chrome argent)
Red = Rouge
Green = Vert
Les chiffres renvoient a des decalcomanies. Voir APPLICATION DES DECALCOMANIES a la page 8.
Yellow = Jaune
Green = Vert
Red = Rouge
P-47D, 302eme Escadron de Combat, 332eme Groupe de Combat, 15eme Air Force. Site operaionnel
en Mediterranee en 1944.
Voir la section des QUEUES ROUGES a la page 8 pour connaTtre I'historique.
LISTE DES COULEURS
FS 17178 Chrome argent
FS 37038 Noir
No. 1150 Rouge
Les chiffres renvoient a des decalcomanies. Voir APPLICATION DES DECALCOMANIES a la page 8.
Yeljow= Jaune
Green = Vert
Red = Rouge
*

No. 520
Note: Clear parts are best glued in place
with white glue. White glue will not mar the
plastic and thus results in a better appearance
than conventional model cement.
*T CANOPY ASSEMBLY
Preliminary Painting
Paint parts as indicated by Italic letter
callouts using the COLOR KEY on pg. 4.
Assembly
1. Bubbletop version only: Apply
instrument panel decal 1 to instrument
panel B5. Cement instrument panel to
pins in underside of cockpit coaming 4.
Glue cockpit coaming to top of fuselage.
Cement pilot into seat (optional). Glue
windscreen to flat portion at front of
cockpit. Glue canopy to canopy frame
11, then cement to cockpit coaming in
either open or closed position. Cement
radio mast B41 to notch to fuselage
spine.
2. Razorback version only: Apply instrument
panel decal 1 to instrument panel
B5. Cement fairing 48 to rear of cockpit
opening in cockpit coaming 4A. Glue
instrument panel B5 to pins in underside
of coaming. Cement coaming to top of
fuselage. Glue bulletproof glass into
slot of front cockpit. Cement pilot to
seat (optional). Glue windscreen to flat
portion ahead of cockpit. Glue canopy
in place in either open or closed
position. Cement radio mast to B41 to
notch on fuselage spine.
Note: It may be easier to paint and decal
your model if underwing stores and/or
armament are left off until model is completely
finished.
%/ FINAL ASSEMBLY
Preliminary Painting
Paint parts as indicated by italic letter
callouts using the COLOR KEY on pg. 4.
Assembly
1. Cement tailwheel assembly (from Step
1) into socket inside rear wheel well.
Glue right and left main landing gear
doors 36 and 37 to right and left main
gear struts respectively. Cement right
and left inner gear doors 38 and 39 to
inner edge of wheel wells as shown.
2. Glue one navigation light lens to the
notch located in each wingtip. Cement
pitot tube B40 into hole in leading edge
of left wing. Glue bomb (from Step 1)
into hole on belly of fuselage. Cement
one drop tank (from Step 1) into holes
in each underwing pylon.
3. Construction of your model is now
complete. It is now ready for application
of remaining decals and final finishing.
Bubbletop
frames: C,
windscreen
Final Assembly
lens
Razorback
bulletproof glass
windscreen
remove (Razorback only)
frames: C
bomb
canopy
canopy
B -.inside
drop tank tailwheel
lens

P-47D, 61 at Fighter Squadron, 56th Fighter Group,
8th Air Force; Boxted, U.K. Flown by top ace
Lt. Col. Francis E. Gabreskl, with 28 victories,
later Increased to 31.
COLOR KEY
HH FS 36118 Gunshlp Gray
I | FS 36440 Flat Gull Gray
FS 17178 Chrome Silver
FS 37038 Flat Black
FS 37875 Flat White
No. 1150 Flat Red
NOTE: No black stripe decal 18.
16
(chrcmu slhffr)
Numbers indicate decal elements.
See APPLYING DECALS on page 8.
NOTE: No black stripe decal 18.
NOTE: No black stripe decal 18

NO.520
yellow
yellow
yellow
17 12
P-47D, 302nd Fightar Squadron, 332nd Fighter Group,
15th Air Force; Mediterranean Theater of Operations,
1944.
yellow See THE RED TAILS section on page 8 for
historical background.
COLOR KEY
|~ I FS17178 Chrome Silver
FS 37038 Flat Black
No. 1150 Flat Red
Numbers indicate decal elements.
See APPLYING DECALS on page 8.
yellow
red
yellow

THE RED TAILS
America's first and only Black Army Air
Corps units entered combat service on April
1,1943. Flying the P-47 Thunderbolt, P-40
Warhawk, P-39 Airacobra and P-51 Mustang,
they collectively destroyed or damaged
a total of 409 enemy aircraft, including the
last 4 air victories of Army Air Corps in the
Mediterranean Theater.
In all, these courageous Americans flew
15,553 sorties and 1,578 missions. Of these
missions, 200 were as heavy bomber escorts
deep into the Rhineland, with no bombers
lost to enemy fighters. All told, 450 black
pilots of the 99th, 100th, 301st, and 302nd
Fighter Squadrons combined to create the
332nd Fighter Group. The name "Red Tails"
refers to the aircraft paint schemes found on
the 301st and 302nd Fighter Squadrons.
On June 25,1944, a flight of P-47's of the
302nd Fighter Squadron led by Captain
Joseph Elsberry came upon a German
destroyer (TA-27) in Trieste harbor. Lieutenants
Joe Lewis, Charles Dunne, Gwynne
Pierson and Windell Pruitt attacked. Pruitt's
.50 caliber shell bursts struck at the ship's
waterline and "walked" up its side, setting the
ship afire. Pierson made another direct hit to
the ammunition magazine as the ship
exploded, thus sinking the German destroyer
with machine gunfire only!
The aircraft and markings shown on page 7
is in honor of the five pilots who participated
in this history making event.
Information of events and aircraft markings
furnished by...
Clint Martin
Tuskegee Airmen, 1991
APPLYING DECALS
1. After carefully masking clear areas, spray
entire model with Tester Model Master
Gloss Clear Lacquer No. 1961.
Decals adhere best to a smooth surface
and the shinier the finish the smoother it
is. Allow the Gloss Clear Lacquer \o dry
thoroughly before going further.
2. Select the decals you plan to use and cut
them from the decal sheet with scissors or
a Testor Hobby Knife,
3. Working with only one decal at a time, dip
the decal in clear water for no more than
five seconds. Remove it from the water
and place on a dry paper towel for about
one minute.
4. When the decal slides easily on the backing
paper, slide it to the edge of, and
onto, the surface of the model with a soft
Testor Model Master paint brush or
tweezers. Remember: the decals are
very thin and can be easily ripped if care
is not taken. Work slowly and carefully.
5. Once the decal is in the desired position
apply a small amount of Testor Decal Set
#8804. This will help the decal conform
to any irregularities in the surface of the
model (rivets,curves, etc.). Allow the
decal to dry undisturbed. Should you desire
to purposely move it before it has
dried, apply a little Decal Set to a soft
brush and push the decal slowly into the
desired position.
6. When the decals are completely dry
(usually overnight), apply a coat of Testor
Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer
No.1960, to the entire model. This will
give it an authentic, dull finish and protect
the surface of the model. Now you can
carefully remove the masking from the
clear parts.
WEATHERING HINTS
Nearly all military aircraft show some signs of
wear. The process by which the modeler
imparts this look to the model is referred to
as weathering. Many times the weathering,
that is, the representing on the model of
soot, oil stains, or chipped paint, etc., can
really make a model stand out and give it
amazing authenticity.
After you have painted your model the
proper colors, you can add the decals. If you
first paint your model with Testor Glosscote,
the decal carrier film will seem to disappear.
Apply one or two coats of Glosscote for a
smooth, glossy finish. Then, after this dries,
apply the decals. This gives them a "painted
on" look. If you want your model to have a
matte finish, wait 24 hours for the decals to
dry. Then spray on one or two coats of
Testor Dullcote. When dry, you can begin
weathering.
Always try to be logical in applying weathering
techniques. For instance, you wouldn't
want to put exhaust stains on a model and
then apply a bright clean decal to the sooty
area. Airplanes are normally well cared for,
so they don't usually appear very battered.
However, soot stains do tend to collect
behind exhaust stacks and sometimes oil
leaks onto the outside of the plane.
There are two methods of showing exhaust
stains. The first is with an airbrush. This is a
rather expensive item and requires practice
to get the right effect. The second method is
by using soft artist pastels or charcoal in
shades of gray or black. Begin by grinding
this material into a fine powder. Apply the
powder to the model by rubbing it on with an
old paint brush. Apply the color thicker and
blacker near the exhaust outlet, and feather
it out as it gets further away from the outlet.
You should practice this on an old model or
on a scrap of paper before trying it on your
model. This technique is not very permanent,
so it is a good idea to give your model
a coat or two of Testor Dullcote to avoid
rubbing off the stains.
Oil stains should be dona very subtly. Oil
really has very little color, so it only leaves
light stains. Tint a small amount of thinner
lightly with black paint. Add a small drop to
the area you want to appear oily. Now with a
strong breath, blow the "oil" back along the
plane. Keep in mind the direction in which
the planes flies, making sure you are blowing
the "oil" from front to back. It is very easy to
overdo this - one or two places are enough.
Paint chips are the simplest technique, but
like the others, are easily overdone. An
average military plane wouldn't have very
many chips. They usually appear on the
cutting edges of the propeller blades, the
leading edges of wings and flying surfaces,
and any areas where crew members or
mechanics walk across the plane (i.e, wing
roots). Use No. 1781 Aluminum lor paint
chips, applying with a fine pointed brush.
With a very small amount of paint on the
brush, apply the chips in small dots, the
smaller the better. Large chips will look too
obtrusive. Be wary of fabric covered control
surfaces though; they don't chip.
Serious modelers collect books and photographs
to use as reference when they finish
their models. Your local hobby shop can
help. Last, but certainly not least, your own
observation will prove helpful. Visit museums
and local airports, look at buildings and
vehicles around you. Notice how rust
streaks a metal roof. See the oil and dirt on
a piece of road grading equipment. Study
railroad boxcars and locomotives to see
what the weather has done to them. Your
own observation can be the best aid of all.
Remember: try not to overdo weathering -
and keep practicing. Be patient, it takes time
to discover and master all the tricks of this
fascinating hobby.