august-2010

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ICE CLIMBING 32JetAway 32 32Jet Jet J tttt Awa way Peak PERFORMANCE Scaling Chamonix’s Mer de Glace at the height of summer, Matt Glasby tries to keep his cool Don’t, whatever you do, look down is the conventional wisdom, a mountaineering mantra to perpetuate the illusion of safety where there is none. Unfortunately, this only applies if you’re going up, along, around, about – any direction, in fact, but down an ancient, 100m-high ladder suspended over a vast, icy valley. On the horizon the pandacoloured peaks of Aiguille du Dru (3,754m and 3,733m) watch over us disapprovingly. On the rungs above, a nervous first-timer threatens to lose his footing, or his breakfast. I look down. Below, the ladder drops off into frosty oblivion, and the Mer de Glace (“sea of ice”), France’s most formidable glacier at 7km long and 200m deep, lurches vertiginously in and out of focus. We’re tied on, of course, each man and woman lashed to the last (Frédérique, our guide), but the Alps have long and worryingly fruitful form when it comes to proving that the illusion of safety is often just that. Since it was first colonised by Benedictine monks in the 11th century, the story of Chamonix and the surrounding region is a story of dangerous things made, apparently, safe. Back then, the Alps were referred to as “les monts maudits”
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august-2010

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