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1.) schw.weiss - StoneWatch

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Part 3:<br />

Broader Ethnic Picture of Eastern and Southern African Rock Art<br />

<strong>1.</strong> Introduction<br />

Kagga Kamma Camp (South Africa): Tourists who are interested to study how the Bushmen<br />

or San lived since primeval times may do this in the Kagga Kamma Camp in South Africa.<br />

This camp can be reached by car via the route R303 from Ceres to the North and then after<br />

about 50 km another 25 km to the East or by a private plan landing on the airstrip of the camp.<br />

Accommodation is possible at the Kagga Kamma Private Game Reserve (Northern Paarl<br />

7623) in chalets of the camp, in the Bushmen Lodge or even in cave dwellings. 266 267<br />

About 30 - 50 Bushmen or San are living on the area of the Kagga Kamma Farm within the<br />

bizarre sandstone formations of the Cerderberg, part of the Grat Karoo, whereas the name<br />

Kagga Kamma means “where much water is flowing”. Tourist may come here in contact with<br />

these Bushmen who are dressed with a leather loincloth only like in the past. The men are still<br />

hunting with bow and arrow and the women are still gathering fruits, roots and other food the<br />

nature offers. There is the possibility to communicate with the San and to buy handicraft articles<br />

remembering to their tradition. But this is expensive: Tourist have to pay about 300 Rand<br />

(about 50 US$) for this pleasure.<br />

I wonder, if these Bushmen are the early artists of rock art we are searching. The answer is clearly:<br />

No! And I would like to explain the reasons:<br />

The Bushmen living at the Kagga Kamma Farm came from the Kalahari in 199<strong>1.</strong> It was the<br />

so-called Kruiper Clan leaded by Regopstaan Kuiper, a former bulldozer driver. He and his<br />

clan had never lived under “San conditions of the past”. But they made an agreement with the<br />

owner of the farm and both had advantages. In 1993 representants of the Commission of<br />

Human Rights of the UN were invited to admire this “ecological-touristic” experiment. All<br />

people involved were content, the owner of the Kagga Kamma Farm, the Bushmen and the<br />

tourists, even when there were already voices in South Africa speaking about a “zoo presenting<br />

human beings”. This changed in 1999: As promised already in 1998 the government gave<br />

these Bushmen a piece of land at the southern border of the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park<br />

- and they accepted.<br />

The exodus of the Bushmen drove the farm to despair after having done all the investments to<br />

exhibit “real savages”. As reaction they engaged coloureds, half-breeds from the Cape, then<br />

acting as Bushmen or San. In the presence of tourists they were naked or dressed with loincloth,<br />

they then exchanged against the more comfortable jeans and T-shirts when the tourists<br />

disappeared. This deception went on for some months. And then the tourists got aware it and<br />

were disappointed and annoyed. The experiment was over or - as Claudia Diers-Lienke wrote<br />

in the Rhein-Neckar-Zeitung (Heidelberg): “Südafrika sind die echten Buschleute ausgegangen<br />

(South Africa runs out the real Bushmen)”. 268<br />

To understand what real Bushmen or San are we should therefore look in the past and the ethnological<br />

history of southern Africa.<br />

266 Loßkarn, E. und D.: Kapstadt & die Kap-Provinz, Köln 1998. pages 183 - 184.<br />

267 Furler, W.: Wie Menschen vor Urzeiten lebten, Rheinische Post, 16.12.1998.<br />

268 Diers-Lienke, C.: Südafrika sind die echten Buschleute ausgegangen, Rhein-Neckar-Zeitung, 06.07.1999.<br />

132

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