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Gary Seronik<br />
Telescope Workshop<br />
GARY SERONIK<br />
Thermal B<strong>as</strong>ics<br />
Beating the heat will get you the sharpest views from your Newtonian.<br />
Next to collimation, But why is <strong>this</strong> a problem? Simply because air m<strong>as</strong>ses<br />
the biggest barrier to<br />
optimum optical performance with a Newtonian refl ector<br />
is poor thermal management. And like collimation,<br />
thermal management is a topic that invites debate and<br />
confusion. Some even suspect the whole issue is merely<br />
the product of hyper-obsessive perfectionism on the part<br />
of some telescope junkies. In reality, however, neither the<br />
problem nor its solutions are terrifi cally complex. As long<br />
<strong>as</strong> you focus on a few b<strong>as</strong>ics, the results of even minimal<br />
eff ort can pay big dividends.<br />
The fi rst thing to understand is that a Newtonian’s primary<br />
mirror is the root of all thermal evils. Forget about<br />
tube currents, forget about the spider and the secondary<br />
— that big hunk of gl<strong>as</strong>s sitting at the back of your scope<br />
is where you need to direct your attention. That’s because<br />
the primary mirror h<strong>as</strong> considerable heat-storage capacity<br />
— heat that it happily (and with agonizing slowness)<br />
radiates whenever the air inside your scope is cooler than<br />
the mirror itself.<br />
By simply mounting a small computer fan with rubber bands behind a Newtonian<br />
refl ector’s primary mirror, high-power views through the telescope<br />
will be noticeably improved. Many of these fans are designed for 12-volt DC<br />
power but still work eff ectively when run with a 6-volt battery pack.<br />
70 May 2012 sky & telescope<br />
of diff erent temperatures have diff erent densities. On its<br />
journey from a star or planet through zones where warm<br />
and cool air mix (typically directly in front of the primary<br />
mirror), light wiggles and bends, producing an eff ect that<br />
looks a lot like bad atmospheric seeing. Some telescope<br />
users who despair that they observe from locations where<br />
the seeing is always bad may be fi ghting telescope thermals<br />
more often than bad seeing. The big diff erence is<br />
that you can do something about a warm mirror!<br />
Another b<strong>as</strong>ic consideration is that the amount of problem<br />
heat that your primary mirror stores is related mainly<br />
to its thickness. In other words, the type of gl<strong>as</strong>s and the<br />
mirror’s diameter don’t make <strong>as</strong> much diff erence <strong>as</strong> its<br />
thickness. Thick is bad, thin is good. As Bryan Greer’s<br />
careful work (detailed in the May and June 2004 issues)<br />
demonstrates, any mirror thicker than about ½ inch is<br />
unlikely to cool quickly enough on its own for satisfactory<br />
high-resolution viewing.<br />
Third on the list of b<strong>as</strong>ic issues is that it’s the temperature<br />
diff erence that matters. In other words, if you bring<br />
your scope out of a garage on a mild summer’s evening<br />
and the primary is sitting at 75°F (24°C) while the ambient<br />
air is at 68°, the thermal consequences are just <strong>as</strong><br />
severe <strong>as</strong> in the winter when your mirror is at 39° and the<br />
air surrounding it is at 32°. Some observers think they<br />
don’t have to worry about thermals when it’s warm outside,<br />
but mild climate or not, it’s a rare location where the<br />
night temperature doesn’t drop a few degrees per hour<br />
when the sky is clear.<br />
What if you leave your scope outside all the time? It<br />
helps, but it’s not usually enough by itself. The trouble is<br />
your mirror dumps its heat more slowly than the rate at<br />
which the night air cools. Even if your primary is at the<br />
same temperature <strong>as</strong> the ambient air at the beginning of<br />
an observing session, it’s unlikely to remain so for long.<br />
So what can you do? Simple. Install a small fan to blow<br />
air at the rear surface of your telescope’s primary mirror.<br />
That is the e<strong>as</strong>iest and most eff ective solution, and a small<br />
DC-powered computer fan is ideal. The only “gotcha”<br />
is that you have to mount the fan in such a way that its<br />
vibrations (and all fans vibrate to some degree) aren’t<br />
transferred to the telescope — there’s no point in making