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Gary Seronik<br />

Telescope Workshop<br />

GARY SERONIK<br />

Thermal B<strong>as</strong>ics<br />

Beating the heat will get you the sharpest views from your Newtonian.<br />

Next to collimation, But why is <strong>this</strong> a problem? Simply because air m<strong>as</strong>ses<br />

the biggest barrier to<br />

optimum optical performance with a Newtonian refl ector<br />

is poor thermal management. And like collimation,<br />

thermal management is a topic that invites debate and<br />

confusion. Some even suspect the whole issue is merely<br />

the product of hyper-obsessive perfectionism on the part<br />

of some telescope junkies. In reality, however, neither the<br />

problem nor its solutions are terrifi cally complex. As long<br />

<strong>as</strong> you focus on a few b<strong>as</strong>ics, the results of even minimal<br />

eff ort can pay big dividends.<br />

The fi rst thing to understand is that a Newtonian’s primary<br />

mirror is the root of all thermal evils. Forget about<br />

tube currents, forget about the spider and the secondary<br />

— that big hunk of gl<strong>as</strong>s sitting at the back of your scope<br />

is where you need to direct your attention. That’s because<br />

the primary mirror h<strong>as</strong> considerable heat-storage capacity<br />

— heat that it happily (and with agonizing slowness)<br />

radiates whenever the air inside your scope is cooler than<br />

the mirror itself.<br />

By simply mounting a small computer fan with rubber bands behind a Newtonian<br />

refl ector’s primary mirror, high-power views through the telescope<br />

will be noticeably improved. Many of these fans are designed for 12-volt DC<br />

power but still work eff ectively when run with a 6-volt battery pack.<br />

70 May 2012 sky & telescope<br />

of diff erent temperatures have diff erent densities. On its<br />

journey from a star or planet through zones where warm<br />

and cool air mix (typically directly in front of the primary<br />

mirror), light wiggles and bends, producing an eff ect that<br />

looks a lot like bad atmospheric seeing. Some telescope<br />

users who despair that they observe from locations where<br />

the seeing is always bad may be fi ghting telescope thermals<br />

more often than bad seeing. The big diff erence is<br />

that you can do something about a warm mirror!<br />

Another b<strong>as</strong>ic consideration is that the amount of problem<br />

heat that your primary mirror stores is related mainly<br />

to its thickness. In other words, the type of gl<strong>as</strong>s and the<br />

mirror’s diameter don’t make <strong>as</strong> much diff erence <strong>as</strong> its<br />

thickness. Thick is bad, thin is good. As Bryan Greer’s<br />

careful work (detailed in the May and June 2004 issues)<br />

demonstrates, any mirror thicker than about ½ inch is<br />

unlikely to cool quickly enough on its own for satisfactory<br />

high-resolution viewing.<br />

Third on the list of b<strong>as</strong>ic issues is that it’s the temperature<br />

diff erence that matters. In other words, if you bring<br />

your scope out of a garage on a mild summer’s evening<br />

and the primary is sitting at 75°F (24°C) while the ambient<br />

air is at 68°, the thermal consequences are just <strong>as</strong><br />

severe <strong>as</strong> in the winter when your mirror is at 39° and the<br />

air surrounding it is at 32°. Some observers think they<br />

don’t have to worry about thermals when it’s warm outside,<br />

but mild climate or not, it’s a rare location where the<br />

night temperature doesn’t drop a few degrees per hour<br />

when the sky is clear.<br />

What if you leave your scope outside all the time? It<br />

helps, but it’s not usually enough by itself. The trouble is<br />

your mirror dumps its heat more slowly than the rate at<br />

which the night air cools. Even if your primary is at the<br />

same temperature <strong>as</strong> the ambient air at the beginning of<br />

an observing session, it’s unlikely to remain so for long.<br />

So what can you do? Simple. Install a small fan to blow<br />

air at the rear surface of your telescope’s primary mirror.<br />

That is the e<strong>as</strong>iest and most eff ective solution, and a small<br />

DC-powered computer fan is ideal. The only “gotcha”<br />

is that you have to mount the fan in such a way that its<br />

vibrations (and all fans vibrate to some degree) aren’t<br />

transferred to the telescope — there’s no point in making

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