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PHOTOS©DONMCCULLIN/CONTACTPRESSIMAGES Th e horizon broken occasionally by a train of Sudanese camels
PRIVAT TRAVEL KINGDOMS IN THE SAND Egypt may boast the world’s most famous pyramids, but those in northern Sudan are more haunting, says Mike Carter. Photography by Don McCullin KHARTOUM IS DOUBLY BLESSED. A RIVER IN THE desert is a godsend and Sudan’s capital city of six million has not only the wide, lazy White Nile slithering in from the fl atlands of the south, but also the Blue Nile, rich in dark, alluvial silt, which tumbles in from the Ethiopian highlands to the east. At the northern tip of the city’s Tuti Island, the two bodies of water merge, retaining their distinct colours for a few hundred metres before blending to become the single, indomitable Nile. Th e confl uence acts as a metaphor for Khartoum, and indeed Sudan, which since ancient times has been an economic crossroads, a meeting point between the Arabs and the cultures of sub-Saharan Africa. A walk through the vast, labyrinthine souk in the Omdurman district off ers a vivid illustration of Sudan’s unique Afro-Arabic culture, which led the former US president Jimmy Carter to talk of the ‘essential humanity of Sudan’. Here, men in dazzling white djellabas and taqiyah prayer caps sell 19th-century Mahdi-era swords or grind sesame seeds into tahini by hand; other traders, dressed in rainbow dashiki shirts and with skin the colour of teak, sell beads or snakeskin shoes. In dusty alleyways, burka-clad women pour chai infused with cardamom. Alongside them, Dinka women in tight-fi tting batiks, with henna tattoos on their ankles, sell
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AUTUMN 2012 THE MAGAZINE
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