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pRAGue by tRAm
These tram routes will take you past some of Prague’s major highlights
and a few unknown gems. Barrandov to Výstaviště: Start your journey
at Anděl and catch the 12, 14, or 20 trams. This ride will take you
up the hill to Barrandov, home to Barrandov Film Studios, one of the
largest in Central Europe. The neighborhood surrounding it is Prague’s
version of the Hollywood Hills. Many of the houses date back to the
1920s and the early, prosperous days of film. Take the tram all the way
to the Geologická stop. Exit here, enjoy the view, and then catch a tram
going back the way you just came. Trams 12, 14, and 20 all take the
same route back into town, offering wonderful Prague views. Try to sit
on the left side of the tram, and you’ll be treated to an ancient bridge
and the home of the Folklore Garden Restaurant in Hlubočepy as you
are coming down the hill. Upon arriving at Anděl, the trams take their
separate routes, each worth exploring.
Tram 12 will take you through Malá Strana, along the river and up
into Letná to your final stop at Výstaviště. Tram 14 takes you over the
river and through the city, crossing Wenceslas Square and winding
through New Town, across the river again and to Výstaviště. Tram 20,
which runs less frequently, will take you through Malá Strana, Dejvice,
and finally to Divoká Šárka. Whether you end at Výstaviště or Divoká
Šárka, if the weather is cooperative go green and hit one of the two
parks. You can’t miss either of them: Divoká Šárka at the tram stop of
the same name, or Stromovka at the Výstaviště stop.
Hradčany and Břevnovský Klášter: catch Tram 18 at Národní Třída
on the side nearest Tesco and get a nice ride along the river, over
Mánesův Most, past the Rudolfinum and to the border of Malá Strana.
This trip takes you near the castle and among the beautiful homes
of Hradčany. Hop off at Hradčanská and catch Tram 15, heading
in the same direction to Břevnovský Klášter. Exit here, cross the
street towards the large grassy area and explore the Romanesque
Benedictine monastery. One could spend several hours in the grounds
and then enjoy an excellent, old-fashioned meal in the wonderfully
rustic monk-run restaurant.
Riverview via Tram 17: This is probably your best “I’m sick of walking”
tour. Start at Strossmayerovo náměstí and board Tram 17 headed
towards Modřany. Once aboard, you will ride parallel to the river with
wonderful views of the castle and Ostrov Štvanice. A quick cut brings
you through Old Town and past the Rudolfinum but then it’s all river
for the rest of the ride. When you first get on the tram, try to sit on the
left side (as you are facing the front of the tram), but if possible switch
to the right side while or before you get to Old Town. This will give you
the best vantage of the river. Stay on until you reach the Dvorce stop,
where you will have your choice of two Middle-Eastern restaurants,
and, in warm weather, the beach at Žluté lázně. Your choices to head
back to town are the 3, 16 and 17 trams, with the 17 returning you
to Old Town for more sightseeing, the 3 taking you through the center
of town and across Wenceslas Square, and the 16 taking you to I. P.
Pavlova or Náměstí Míru.
15 leSSeR-knoWn pRAGue AttRActionS
1. Vyšehrad This 10th-century castle complex, replete with neo-Gothic
church, cemetery and numerous other landmarks, is often overlooked.
Walk through the park, enjoy the view, and stop by the beer garden or
one of the area’s numerous cafés.
2. The New Jewish cemetery A bit farther off the beaten path than its
Old Town counterpart, this 100-year-old graveyard in Prague 3 is the
final resting place of Franz Kafka.
3. National Memorial on Vítkov Hill The former burial place of
prominent members of the Communist party was recently re-opened as
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a museum to pay tribute to Czechoslovak history of the 20th century;
don’t miss the viewing platform.
4. Nový Svět This quiet cluster of medieval cottages, known as “New
World” in English, is a quiet, storybook neighborhood located behind in
Hradčany, behind Prague Castle.
5. Průhonice Zámek Though a short bus ride from Prague’s Opatov
metro station, itself a bit out of the center, this recently UNESCO
heritage-awarded site is home to a stunning park and chateau complex.
6. The Hunger Wall This ancient fortification is one of the most wellpreserved
structures in Prague; it’s so-called for its beginnings as an
anti-hunger initiative begun by King Charles IV: those who built it were
given food.
7. Břevnov Abbey Likely one of the oldest inhabited areas of Prague
with gardens, Baroque summer home and a church (St. Margaret’s)
with interiors by Czech Baroque painter Petr Brandl.
8. Roof-top cafés We recommend the view from the terrace café of
the Divadlo Bez Zábradlí in the historic 12th-century Palác Adria; the
terrace at Hotel U Prince is a stunning splurge.
9. Vojanovy sady Prague’s oldest garden, founded in the 13th century.
Peacocks, fruit trees and luscious flowers tucked away in Malá Strana.
10. Rašínovo Nábřeží The walk along this stretch of the river
embankment offers plenty of scenery and waterfront charm.
11. Old Sewage Works (Stará čistírna) Guided tours are available,
and the striking brick-vaulted sewers, whose elegant arches and lofty
spaces are strikingly reminiscent of a cathedral, are the highlight.
12. Our Lady of the Snows Church (Kostel panny Marie Sněžné) and
Franciscan Gardens (Františkánská zahrada) St. Mary of the Snows
towers over the neighboring Franciscan Gardens, the best place to
appreciate the full height of the church. The Gardens are an oasis of
peace, with plenty of trees and shrubbery to afford shade on a hot day.
13. St. Gall’s Church (Kostel sv. Havla) The imposing edifice, whose
two bulky towers vie with the Neo-Renaissance bulk of the Česká
spořitelna bank next door, forms an attractive backdrop to the bustle of
Havelská market.
14. St. Michael’s Church (Kostel sv. Michala), Petřín Hill The naïve,
rough-hewn church, which looks as if it has grown out of the ground
like a trio of mushrooms, is built entirely of wood, and in traditional
orthodox fashion is split into three sections, topped by spires.
15. Thunovská street, Lesser Quarter The main pedestrian routes to
Prague Castle are Nerudova or the Old Castle Steps (Staré zámecké
schody). But Thunovská, a lane roughly parallel to Nerudova, is a walk
through the Lesser Quarter at its most atmospheric.
dARk touRiSm in pRAGue
We don’t often associate churches with the uncanny and macabre
(okay, most of us don’t), but the Church of St. James the Greater
(Kostel svatého Jakuba Většího, on Malá Štupartská) may be one of
the spookiest in Prague. According to one legend, a thief was struck on
the hand by a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary and became immobile
until the hand which had been hit was cut off. Creepiest of all, the hand
apparently still hangs in the church. Karlovo Náměstí is connected with
a lot of sinister events. Anyone who has ever queued up to get their
Czech criminal record in Pankrác may be surprised to know that right
next door are a group of people whose records are not so clean. Yes,
beside Prague’s High Court is the Prague Pankrác Remand Prison and
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