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what’s on ReAdinGS/book clubS Prague’s expatriate literary scene is on the upturn, as evidenced by the success of the Czech Literature Portal, a Czech-English site devoted to publishing news and book reviews from across Central Europe, the Charles University-endorsed literary magazine GRASP, and the handful of recent publications anthologizing foreign writers in Prague. The Alchemy Prague Reading and Performance Series takes place the first Sunday of every month in the Anglo-American University library; an hour-long open mic kicks off the evening. The annual Prague Writers’ Festival brings to Prague a program of well-respected headliners from Margaret Atwood to Junot Diaz, for readings, talk, and signings every spring. The Globe Reading Group book club meets weekly at the Globe Bookstore & Café. bARS Old Town, especially the Josefov quarter, boasts the largest concentration of trendy cocktail bars and late-night clubs, and tends to be the epicenter of tourist nightlife. Bugsy’s, Tretters, Aloha, M1 Lounge, Bombay, and Zapa Bar promise smart ambience and masterful mixologists behind the bar. Smaller “hidden-gem” bars in this touristthronged district are Čili Bárek, Orange Café, Hany Bany, Prague Beer Museum, and 2. patro, Prague’s secret bar/art venue. The area around Týnská Church has a trio of watering holes for a trio of types: Týnská Bar and Books caters to the cigar-and-scotch crowd, Týnská literární kavárna, is a charming, budget haunt for bookish types, and Chateau L’Enfer Rouge catches the all-night party animal vote. Off Wenceslas Square, Jet Set serves a hefty burger and a wide selection of mojitos, and a night spent at labyrinthine U Sudu, with floors devoted to DJs, foosball, and pitchers of cheap wine, is an expat rite of passage. Nearer the river, Hemingway Bar pours a proper absinthe and numerous other top-shelf spirits, while neighboring Duende is raucous fun. Across the bridge in Malá Strana, Zanzibar, Blue Light, and PopoCafePetl have good drinks and a jazzy vibe; up-tempo Mad Bar feels like a friend’s flat, and Club Újezd, just beneath Petřín, is three levels of booze-fueled fun. The area behind the National Theatre hosts a handful of bar/restaurants serving dance tunes and late-night eats to hungry partiers: Ultramarin, N11, and Czech-celeb frequented Solidní Nejistota (Solid Uncertainty), while itty-bitty Al Capone’s is huge on charm and cocktail selection. The Žižkov and Vinohrady neighborhoods are hot spots to hang out—in fact the former is said to have more bars (300) per capita than any other city district in Europe. In Vinohrady, on the border of Žižkov, club Radost FX, Zelená Zahrada, Žlutá Pumpa, and the new Dirty Dog Cocktail Bar, are all well-known for food, drink, and fun. Hapu, situated between the two districts, is a low-key cocktail bar with cozy couches and plenty of attitude. Žižkov picks are Bukowski’s, Café Pavlač, and the newly refurbished Blind Eye, a former speakeasy that’s crawling with hipsters. A number of Prague’s swanky hotels entice discerning clientele with their luxe lobby bars. In and around the Old Town, the rooftop bar/ restaurant at Hotel U Prince is as overpriced and touristy as it gets, but affords a stunning view of Prague’s weathered steeples and spires. Buddha-Bar Hotel’s Asian décor and world music set the pace for an evening of mai-tai bliss. Cloud-9 Bar atop the Hilton mixes signature cocktails. Stylish Brewery Bar in the just-opened Augustine Hotel has quickly become a favorite among Prague fashonistas. The vaultedceilinged Two Steps bar at Kempinski Hybernská does a happy-hour. Across the river, BaReGo in the Mandarin Oriental offers a premium martini list. Letná locals frequent Fraktal, a late-night beer-and-burger joint that’s an expat fave for brunch the next morning, too. Continuing down Šmeralova, The Barrel and a number of other local gems like the Irish Club and La Bodega Flamenco, a tapas bar, entice. In Holešovice Cross Club wins points for its funky sci-fi-inspired décor and SaSaZu is a stylish standout. 1212 words/page ends clubS Prague’s dance clubs throb and heave from dusk till dawn. Fans of sugary pop tunes flock to Lucerna Music Bar’s and Futurum’s ’80s and ’90s nights. Karlovy Lázně’s five floors, each devoted to a different style of music, regularly pack ’em in. Also on the river, Klub Lávka can be glimpsed from Charles Bridge and, besides multiple dance floors, offers a tequila bar. Duplex Club on Wenceslas Square is known for its rooftop terrace and air of exclusivity—Mick Jagger had his sixtieth birthday party there. Go-go dancers get things going at Retro Music Hall. Nebe, the new Yes Club, Vertigo, La Fabrique, K.U. Bar Lounge, and Double Trouble are centrally-located. The most frequented clubbing venues, however, are located outside the center. Top clubs include larger-than-life Abaton, Misch Masch, Face to Face, Mecca and the gritty new Berlin-style Klubovna in Dejvice. Creatures of the night (and early morning of the next day) are attracted, moth-like, to the dim afterhours environs of Le Clan, opening at 2:00, and Studio 54. Batalion is one of the few afterhours clubs in central Prague that spins rock and hip-hop till the wee hours. Techtle Mechtle is one of the largest cocktails bars in Prague open all night. 1212 words/page ends SAFety Metro hours end at midnight and night buses run every 30 or 60 minutes, depending on the route, from midnight (or from 1:00 on Friday and Saturday), to 4:30, and service outer Prague. Night trams (lines 51–59) start around midnight and run every 30 minutes until 4:30, when the metro opens. Call-for-taxis (radio-taxi) or regulated taxi stands (Taxi Fair Place) are the best options for getting a cab. Avoid simply flagging one down on the street outside a club or in a tourist area. When calling for a taxi it’s always good to have a trusted company stored in your phone, such as AAA, Profi Taxi, or Taxi Praha. For an online price calculation and phone numbers for major taxi companies, www.cenytaxi.cz is a helpful site. The free app Chci Taxi, available for Android and iPhone, lists trusted local cab info in your area and extends to the entire Czech Republic and Slovakia. If you’ve driven into the center, services like Modrý Anděl (Blue Angel) or Rychlá želva (Fast Turtle) will collect you and your car and drive you both home safely. 1212 words/page ends AnnuAl FeStiVAlS The country’s numerous annual festivals highlight and celebrate historical events as well as important modern trends in gastronomy, music, film, and art. January Prague Winter: Annual festival of opera, ballet, and classical music at the National Theater and Prague Castle. www.praguewinterfestival.com New Year’s Day Fireworks: The New Year’s Eve celebrations in Prague feature fireworks as well, with hordes of people descending on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square to ring in the New Year. Along the waterfront the next day, you’ll also be treated to a well-lit night sky with fireworks starting over the Vltava around 18:00. February Carnevale Praha: Bohemian Carnival is celebrated with all manner of parades, balls, and musical performances. www.carnevale.cz 32 | expats.cz survival guide www.expats.cz
march Easter Markets (Velikonoční trhy): Prague’s Easter markets traditionally open around March 24 and run through April 15 in Old Town and Wenceslas squares, as well as smaller markets in outlying districts. Traditional hand-painted Easter eggs and pomlázka, or whipping sticks, are available for sale alongside a variety of food and drink, and entertainment. FebioFest: Prague’s largest film festival with some in-depth retrospectives on renowned films and filmmakers. Films show at CineStar Anděl. www.febiofest.cz One World (Jeden Svět): Documentary film festival centered on human rights. www.jedensvet.cz April Days of European Film Festival: Current European films debut in Prague. Most films are shown with English subtitles. www.eurofilmfest.cz may Book World Prague: An international book fair. www.bookworld.cz Czech Beer Festival: Calls attention to the wondrous varieties of Czech beer. www.ceskypivnifestival.cz Khamoro: A world Roma festival featuring musical performances at Roxy and other venues. www.khamoro.cz Prague Fringe: This quirky English-language theater festival takes place at unique Prague venues in May/June. www.praguefringe.com Prague Spring (Pražké jaro): A major international classical music festival held at Obecní dům and other concert halls throughout May and June. www.festival.cz June Czech Folklore Festival: Large celebration of folk music and Czech heritage happening in various towns throughout the summer. www. folkcountry.cz Mezi Ploty (“In Between Fences”): A weekend theater and music festival at the Bohnice psychiatric facility. www.meziploty.cz Museum Night (Muzejní noc): From 19:00 to 1:00 on a night in early June, the city opens the doors of its museums for free and also provides free transport. praha.muzejninoc.cz Prague Food Festival: Prague restaurants deliver a gourmet taste of specialties. www.praguefoodfestival.com Prague Writers’ Festival: Acclaimed authors from around the world give talks and sign books. www.pwf.cz United Islands Music Festival: A two-day, international music festival that takes place on the islands of the Vltava with nine stages and over 150 bands. July Ameropa: Large festival of chamber music held at a variety of Prague concert halls throughout July and August. www.ameropa.org Karlovy Vary International Film Festival: The biggest film festival in the Czech Republic, and one of the oldest in Europe. www.expats.cz Prague Proms: Classical music festival brings foreign and domestic talent to Prague throughout July. www.pragueproms.cz Rock for People: One of the largest outdoor summer music festivals. www.rockforpeople.cz Summer Shakespeare Festival: From June to September, Shakespeare is performed in the courtyard of Prague Castle. www.shakespeare.cz August International Organ Festival: Concerts from a variety of European organists in St. James’ Basilica every August/September. www. auditeorganum.cz Verdi Festival: Two weeks of concerts held at the State Opera House in honor of the celebrated composer. www.opera.cz Young Prague: An international music festival aimed at promoting young artists in classical music. www.mladapraha.cz September Dvořák Prague Festival: World-famous orchestras, conductors and interpreters of classical music give an annual series of concerts, in the Dvořák Hall of the Rudolfinum. www.dvorakpraha.cz Wine Festivals (vinobraní): In late August/early September, wine harvesting begins. One of the largest festivals in Prague is Vinohradské vinobraní in Vinohrady. october International Jazz Festival: Large jazz fest held at various Prague jazz venues throughout October. www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz Strings of Autumn (Struny podzimu): Major international music festival held at the National Theater and other venues throughout the season. www.strunypodzimu.cz november Afro-Bailar Festival Prague: Five-day event bringing African beats to Prague’s main stages for performance, parties, and workshops. www. afrobailar.com december International Festival of Advent and Christmas Music: Featuring a variety of concerts of Advent and Christmas music. www.orfea.cz The Bohuslav Martinů Festival in Prague: Classical music festival held in December celebrating the composer. www.martinu.cz Prague Christmas: Competition festival held in Prague during Christmas celebrating a variety of seasonal music and carols, along with Czech Christmas traditions. www.choirs.cz moRe on eXpAtS.cz Get all the latest updates on what to do, who to see and where to go at Expats.cz/entertainment, your first stop for events, exhibits, and film listings and reviews, and everything else you need for planning your perfect night out. expats.cz survival guide | 33 what’s on
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