4 - Memorial University of Newfoundland DAI

Stokes' waveexhibit vertieaiaymmetry, sharper crests and flatter tmughe:
whereas Airy's wavea are sinusoidal. The kinematics of Slokca' wsvca an
described in tarma of circular functions. Cnoidal wsvn, attrihatdio to KO.
rteweg and de.Vriea 1431, are developed in terms of elliptical functions. tlc
side the above wavea, there aresolitary wave. 1441. These waves rise eutircly
sbwe the still water level and reuit in msso transport in tho dimetio~n of
wave advance. Such waves an generated by displacing a mass of water (c.g.,
dce to seismic movements). Rqions of spplicnbility-ia., small nnlplitudc
(Airy's wave), and finite amplitude (Stokean, Cnoidal and Solitary wavea)
theories-are depicted in terms of the relative depth, h, in Pigurc 3.1. 'Phe
L.
notations used in connections with wavoa are ahawn in Pipn? 3.2.
In the foliowingseetions, tho mathematical larmulationa arcd lo cdcaiatc
the wave farm on s structure, subjected to regular and irregular wnvos, am
presented.
3.3 Regular Wave Forces
3.3.1 Vertical Cylinder
Based on thelinearized Morrison's wavcoquation, thc incromcntd wave fnrcc,
&-, on a cylindrical element of length, 8, of a vertical cnnliicver cylinder
(see Fibure 3.3) is expressed as:
where
d& = IPCDDI~
d& = p~rF(fi - ?)da.
- kl(d - k)ds, md