FEDERATION NEWS - The Jewish Georgian
FEDERATION NEWS - The Jewish Georgian
FEDERATION NEWS - The Jewish Georgian
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
July-August 2012 THE JEWISH GEORGIAN Page 37<br />
<strong>The</strong> romance of Israeli trains<br />
By Lynne and Tom Keating<br />
<strong>The</strong> El Al flight from Toronto cut<br />
through the sunrise and landed at about<br />
7:00 a.m., at Ben Gurion Airport,<br />
Wednesday, October 26, 2011. We collected<br />
our bags, cleared passport control and customs,<br />
visited the restrooms and an ATM,<br />
and then purchased a Winter 2011-12 Train<br />
Time Table at the ticket office.<br />
An escalator took us down to the track,<br />
where we boarded #148 to Savidor Center,<br />
one of four stations in Tel Aviv.<br />
This was Lynne’s third, Tom’s initial,<br />
and our first shared trip to Israel. <strong>The</strong> rail<br />
experience from the airport lived up to a<br />
guide book description: “<strong>The</strong> most straightforward<br />
method of getting from Ben Gurion<br />
airport to Tel Aviv is by train.”<br />
We love trains. Why should Israel be<br />
different?<br />
After two days of beach walks, exploring<br />
street markets, and living and reliving<br />
Tel Aviv and Jaffa’s attractions, we stood on<br />
Platform 4, waiting for our second train.<br />
Trip notes remind us that for 22 new Israeli<br />
shekels (NIS) each, we boarded Train 6519<br />
at precisely 11:44 a.m. and headed eastward<br />
to Jerusalem.<br />
Several more Israelis climbed on at the<br />
quick stops at the HaShalom and HaHagana<br />
stations. We whisked through stations listed<br />
in the schedule book and reached Lod two<br />
minutes after noon.<br />
With the rhythmic clacking of wheels<br />
on the track and an occasional whoo of a<br />
whistle, we looked from two seats in row 15<br />
through somewhat dirty windows at the<br />
marvels moving past: a caravan of twenty<br />
camels, refineries, turtledoves, cattle egrets,<br />
tawny mounds of earth, and green agricultural<br />
fields.<br />
Walking through the cars, we saw military<br />
personnel with yarmulkes and guns,<br />
sleeping youngsters, readers of Lonely<br />
Planet guidebooks, students with<br />
earplugs—and no dining car.<br />
<strong>The</strong> lion-skin color of the rolling hills<br />
reminded us of northern New Mexico,<br />
while the drooping willows at the creek’s<br />
edge, the Bedouins picking olives and other<br />
fruits off trees, and the sheep in stone compounds<br />
offered distinct scenes of Erev<br />
Israel.<br />
We traveled east through Ramla, Bet<br />
Shemesh, rolling topography, and the<br />
Jerusalem Biblical Zoo and arrived in less<br />
than two hours at our destination—the new,<br />
clean, modern Malha station. We were in<br />
the City of David.<br />
Departure schedule at Malha Station<br />
in Jerusalem<br />
Despite an Atlanta rabbi’s critique that,<br />
“<strong>The</strong> trains are OK, just so slow,” we firmly<br />
hold to the adage that train time is like no<br />
other. Train buffs rarely ask or answer the<br />
question: “How long did it take?” Rather,<br />
we began to prepare for our Georgia <strong>Jewish</strong><br />
friends asking incredulously, “What trains<br />
in Israel?”<br />
We disembarked from our second<br />
adventure, gave thanks, hailed a cab to <strong>The</strong><br />
Little House of Bakah (our delightful bed<br />
and breakfast recommended by another<br />
Atlanta rabbi), and then walked to the<br />
Western Wall for our first Sabbath in Yireh<br />
Shalem.<br />
A week later, on our 86-kilometer<br />
return trip to Tel Aviv, the northern windows<br />
became our portals to the same scenes<br />
in the Soreq Valley, which never tired us,<br />
especially when, from our car, we could see<br />
the engine winding west toward Tel Aviv,<br />
along the deep river bed.<br />
Window view of train curving<br />
through countryside to Tel Aviv<br />
We yearned for a handy copy of the 5th<br />
edition of Baedeker’s Palestine and Syria<br />
1912, yet we knew we could read this<br />
unique account when we returned home, in<br />
the special collections area of Emory’s<br />
Woodruff Library.<br />
Instead, we used <strong>The</strong> Guide to Israel<br />
(1964) by Zev Vilnay and remembered<br />
Martin Gilbert’s description of the “narrow<br />
gauge, single-track railway” from its 1892<br />
beginning, when the Jaffa-Jerusalem line<br />
was started by the <strong>Jewish</strong> and Ottoman financier<br />
Joseph Navon.<br />
Years before our adventure, Rabbi<br />
“Alphabet” Browne, of <strong>The</strong> Temple, had<br />
reported on these same plans in the <strong>Jewish</strong><br />
South.<br />
We read and reminisced about the pilgrims,<br />
settlers, missionaries, and tourists<br />
who had taken this same ride in the Yishuv.<br />
A friend and former Temple member,<br />
Fran Hunter, who made aliyah and now<br />
lived in Netanya, encouraged us to ride the<br />
train to Haifa and then take buses to Safed,<br />
Tiberius, and back to Jerusalem.<br />
So we boarded a double-decker in Tel<br />
Aviv, with one suitcase. Our car had neither<br />
a luggage rack nor any overhead space,<br />
Unique volunteer opportunity in Israel<br />
Volunteers for Israel is planning a<br />
Southeast (eight-state) Regional trip to<br />
Israel, November 4-22.<br />
VFI has been a vibrant force in bringing<br />
Jews and Christians to Israel, to experience<br />
an adventure of a lifetime.<br />
This 30-year-old program is open to<br />
healthy individuals, ages 18-80, who are<br />
seeking something different. VFI participants<br />
volunteer in a safe job environment<br />
on an Israeli Army base, working, eating,<br />
and living on the base Sunday-Thursday, to<br />
give Israel and her soldiers a helping hand.<br />
Volunteers can travel locally on their<br />
own on weekends or join special activities<br />
planned for the group, including walking<br />
tours, shopping, and sightseeing in Tel Aviv<br />
or other Israeli cities on the first weekend.<br />
On the second weekend, volunteers<br />
can register for a 2-day bus tour with a<br />
licensed tour guide in the area south of Tel<br />
Aviv, including Sderot; Kibbutz Yad<br />
Mordechai; Ben Gurion’s desert home; and<br />
the Black Arrow memorial, where participants<br />
will pay their respects to General<br />
Aaron Davidi, founder of VFI; and more.<br />
On Friday night (erev Shabbat), there will<br />
be an overnight stop and Shabbat dinner at<br />
the Beduoin Hospitality Center, in the<br />
Negev Desert.<br />
<strong>The</strong> registration fee for this trip is $90.<br />
Participants will make their own flight<br />
arrangements and will meet early Sunday<br />
morning, November 4, at Ben Gurion<br />
Airport, near Tel Aviv.<br />
For the second weekend activities,<br />
there will be an additional charge of<br />
approximately $320 (depending on the<br />
number of people going), to cover two<br />
overnights, two breakfasts, Shabbat dinner,<br />
licensed guide, bus, and gratuities.<br />
This program ends on Thanksgiving—<br />
November 22—but it is possible to do two<br />
weeks on the program and the weekend<br />
which forced us to leave the rolling<br />
Samsonite behind our seats on the first<br />
floor. When we first glimpsed the turquoise<br />
water, we excitedly climbed upstairs to<br />
enjoy our ticketed view of the<br />
Mediterranean for 46.50 NIS.<br />
Coastal view from train window<br />
<strong>The</strong> romantic and historical scenery<br />
sped by. We returned aglow to our seats,<br />
startled to find our luggage gone. Imagine<br />
two American tourists, like schlumps, leaving<br />
luggage unattended on an Israeli train.<br />
Luckily, Judah, an attendant in the<br />
HaShaman station, in Haifa, helped us<br />
reboard back to Binyamin. We had no time<br />
to study its Rothschildean roots, as we<br />
jumped off, ran to a train side office,<br />
grabbed our bag—which must have been<br />
searched and x-rayed, since no one slowed<br />
us down—and, within three minutes,<br />
stepped onto the northbound train for a<br />
third and last look at the beaches from Dor<br />
to Atlit.<br />
All’s well that ends well. With better<br />
insights, after six train rides, including two<br />
free ones, Israel and its trains beckon us to<br />
return. Next year in Jerusalem—to ride the<br />
light rail.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Keatings, Lynne, a writer, and Tom, an<br />
educator, are members of <strong>The</strong> Temple.<br />
tour and still be back in time for turkey and<br />
all the trimmings.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re will be a meeting in late August<br />
for local participants. For information, visit<br />
www.vfi-usa.org, then call Sharon Sleeper,<br />
404-378-8692, Alan Mintz, 770-522-8960,<br />
Tim Anderson 404-441-1176, or Leon<br />
Rechtman, 770-328-4573.