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DECEMBER, 1971 50c - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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^<br />

Yuma; above <strong>the</strong> Morelos dam and probably—but<br />

not positively—from below<br />

<strong>the</strong> Imperial dam.<br />

After seeing this vast area below <strong>the</strong><br />

border, both from <strong>the</strong> ground and <strong>the</strong><br />

air, we were able to arrive at a <strong>the</strong>ory as<br />

to how and why <strong>the</strong> river shifted its<br />

course sometime in <strong>the</strong> late 1700s In<br />

those early days <strong>the</strong> gulf tapered to <strong>the</strong><br />

north, so that as <strong>the</strong> tides progressed up<br />

its 750 mile length from south to north<br />

<strong>the</strong>y became higher and advanced more<br />

rapidly as <strong>the</strong> surface area narrowed.<br />

Tidal bores in excess <strong>of</strong> 20 feet are a<br />

matter <strong>of</strong> record. These great bores were<br />

dissipated when <strong>the</strong>y reached <strong>the</strong> north<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gulf and spread out over <strong>the</strong><br />

tidal flats where <strong>the</strong> desert and dunes<br />

now lay, and at ebb tide would deposit<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir vast burdens <strong>of</strong> sand. Surface temperatures<br />

in <strong>the</strong> area have been reported<br />

at 180 degrees in <strong>the</strong> summer months.<br />

The blistering sun dried out <strong>the</strong> top<br />

sands in a matter <strong>of</strong> minutes after <strong>the</strong><br />

tide receded, and <strong>the</strong>y would be drifted<br />

by <strong>the</strong> prevailing westerly winds forming<br />

<strong>the</strong> great dunes as <strong>the</strong>y now exist.<br />

Where <strong>the</strong> force <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> incoming tides<br />

met <strong>the</strong> current <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> river huge sandbars<br />

were formed and were enlarged by <strong>the</strong><br />

debris and silt carried by <strong>the</strong> river.<br />

Francisco de Ulloa, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earliest<br />

explorers to sail to <strong>the</strong> mouth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colorado<br />

in 1647 reported, "A recent downpour<br />

to <strong>the</strong> north had put <strong>the</strong> river in<br />

flood so that down <strong>the</strong> estuary came<br />

floating great clots <strong>of</strong> grass-matted soil,<br />

trunks <strong>of</strong> trees and o<strong>the</strong>r light debris.<br />

Sometimes it was <strong>the</strong> color <strong>of</strong> lime—<strong>the</strong><br />

color <strong>of</strong> a river in flood, <strong>the</strong>n yellow,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n dark brown, and again <strong>the</strong> color <strong>of</strong><br />

chocolate or nearly black from <strong>the</strong> volcanic<br />

contents <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil."<br />

With <strong>the</strong> formation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se bars <strong>of</strong><br />

silt and sand, <strong>the</strong> channels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> delta<br />

were choked and eventually dammed.<br />

The river became deeper and its waters<br />

backed up to <strong>the</strong> confluence with <strong>the</strong><br />

Gila River, or far<strong>the</strong>r up both rivers, and<br />

spread across <strong>the</strong> tidal flats surrounding<br />

<strong>the</strong> delta. Finally a trickle overflowed<br />

<strong>the</strong> once-high west bank <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colorado.<br />

While <strong>the</strong> bank washed away <strong>the</strong> trickle<br />

became a flow, and <strong>the</strong> flow a torrent<br />

as <strong>the</strong> river rushed out into <strong>the</strong> lower<br />

lands to <strong>the</strong> southwest. Several hundred<br />

square miles were flooded before <strong>the</strong><br />

rampaging river once again settled down<br />

in its ancient stream bed to <strong>the</strong> west.<br />

The water flowing over <strong>the</strong> west bank<br />

cut deep to a ledge <strong>of</strong> bedrock where it<br />

could go no deeper. This, however, was<br />

not as deep as <strong>the</strong> bed <strong>the</strong> river had followed<br />

for several centuries. A greatly<br />

reduced flow continued as it had before.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> diminished volume <strong>of</strong> water<br />

going down <strong>the</strong> channel toward Adair<br />

Bay <strong>the</strong> river and <strong>the</strong> flood waters in<br />

<strong>the</strong> delta gradually stagnated and could<br />

no longer carry away <strong>the</strong> blowing sands<br />

as <strong>the</strong>y settled. Over a period <strong>of</strong> time<br />

<strong>the</strong> channels became filled to <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir banks. Capillary action carried <strong>the</strong><br />

moisture upward, dampening <strong>the</strong> sands<br />

as fast as <strong>the</strong> winds deposited <strong>the</strong>m, first<br />

forming ridges and <strong>the</strong>n dunes that continued<br />

to grow into great sand hills. As<br />

<strong>the</strong> moisture reached <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sand<br />

it evaporated where <strong>the</strong> arid desert air<br />

reached it-<br />

Waters gradually drained from <strong>the</strong><br />

flood plains <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> delta, joining <strong>the</strong> flow<br />

still coming down <strong>the</strong> old channels. Bit<br />

by bit <strong>the</strong> water built up pressure when<br />

<strong>the</strong> capillary action and evaporation<br />

could no longer handle it. The flow became<br />

more concentrated and its velocity<br />

increased as seepage broke through under<br />

<strong>the</strong> old barriers and soon became a free<br />

flowing underground river into Adair<br />

Bay.<br />

The last inhabitants who might have<br />

seen this all take place were <strong>the</strong> Arenero<br />

Indians. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m left while <strong>the</strong><br />

waters were disappearing; <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>m were run out or killed by a Mexican<br />

posse nearly a century ago—<strong>the</strong>y had<br />

been responsible or were so accused, for<br />

more than 50 murders and robberies<br />

along <strong>the</strong> Camino del Diablo. They left<br />

no written records and <strong>the</strong>ir legends died<br />

with <strong>the</strong>m. Consequently <strong>the</strong> "how" and<br />

"why" <strong>the</strong> river changed is course is a<br />

matter <strong>of</strong> conjecture based on existing<br />

evidence, with a few educated guesses<br />

to fit <strong>the</strong> pieces toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

The amount <strong>of</strong> irrigation water being<br />

lost before it reaches <strong>the</strong> Alamo Canal<br />

and possibly, but not probably, from <strong>the</strong><br />

All American Canal is also a matter <strong>of</strong><br />

conjecture until <strong>the</strong> comparative flows<br />

can be measured.<br />

In any event, if you're boating down<br />

<strong>the</strong> lower Colorado take <strong>the</strong> right hand<br />

branch—<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r has a very low ceiling.<br />

•<br />

FISH! FISH! FISH!<br />

TROUT, BASS AND CATFISH<br />

Get your share at Hall's Crossing<br />

HALLS'S CROSSING MARINA OFFERS: Gas and oil, live bait and lures, fishing gear, boat repair<br />

facilities, cold beer, ICE, groceries, slips and buoys for rent. Overnight accommodations that<br />

sleep two to eight persons. Write or call for reservations. At <strong>the</strong> general store: fresh milk, eggs,<br />

butter, frozen meat, cold cuts and canned items for camping or picnicking. Take a boat trip to<br />

Rainbow Bridge in one day. 2, 3 and 4-day tours to various parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lake, camping and<br />

sleeping under <strong>the</strong> stars. Ferry service for travelers' with light vehicles. All types <strong>of</strong> pleasure<br />

craft for rent, from 14-ft. to houseboats. Airstrip is 4000 feet with tiedown facilities available.<br />

HALL'S CROSSING MARINA<br />

Write Lake Powell Ferry Service, Blanding Utah or call Moab Mobile Operator, ask for Unit 56<br />

29

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