Be able to make and style a hair addition - VTCT

VRQ
Make and style
a hair addition
UV30500
K/600/8638
Learner name:
Learner number:

Statement of unit achievement
VTCT is the specialist awarding body for the Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy,
Complementary Therapy and Sport and Active Leisure sectors, with over 45
years of experience.
VTCT is an awarding body regulated by national organisations including
Ofqual, SQA, DCELLS and CCEA.
VTCT is a registered charity investing in education and skills but also giving to
good causes in the area of facial disfigurement.
By signing this statement of unit achievement you are confirming that all learning outcomes, assessment
criteria and range statements have been achieved under specified conditions and that the evidence
gathered is authentic.
This statement of unit achievement table must be completed prior to claiming certification.
Unit code Date achieved Learner signature
Assessor tracking table
Assessor name Assessor signature
Assessor
initials
Assessors
initials
IV signature
(if sampled)
All assessors using this Record of Assessment book must complete this table. This is required for
verification purposes.
Assessor number
(optional)

UV30500
Make and style a hair addition
The aim of this unit is to develop your skills to make a
simple hair addition using the wig making technique of
weaving a weft. This unit will take you through the planning
stage of creating a mood board, producing your hair
addition, styling the weft using permanent techniques and
then incorporating it into your hair design. This is a very
intricate technique and will need a high degree of manual
dexterity.
This unit is suitable for both hairdressers and barbers.
UV30500_v5

Level
Credit value
GLH
3
7
60
Observation(s)
2
External paper(s)
0

Make and style a hair addition
Learning outcomes Evidence requirements
On completion of this unit you will:
1. Be able to make and style a hair addition
2. Be able to develop a mood board
1. Environment
Evidence for this unit must be gathered in a
real or realistic working environment.
2. Simulation
Simulation is not allowed in this unit. All
‘Observation’ outcomes must be on real
clients.
3. Observation outcomes
Competent performance of ‘Observation’
outcomes must be demonstrated to your
assessor on at least two occasions.
4. Range
All ranges must be practically demonstrated
or other forms of evidence produced to
show they have been covered.
5. Knowledge outcomes
There must be evidence that you possess
all the knowledge and understanding
listed in the ‘Knowledge’ section of this
unit. This evidence may include projects,
assignments, case studies, reflective
accounts, oral/written questioning and/or
other forms of evidence.
6. Tutor/Assessor guidance
You will be guided by your tutor/assessor
on how to achieve learning outcomes and
ranges in this unit. All outcomes and ranges
must be achieved.
7. External paper
There is no external paper requirement for
this unit.
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4
Achieving observations
and range
Achieving observation outcomes
Your assessor will observe your performance
of practical tasks. The minimum number
of observations required is indicated in the
evidence requirements section of this unit.
Criteria may not always naturally occur during
a practical observation. In such instances you
will be asked questions to demonstrate your
competence in this area. Your assessor will
document the criteria that have been achieved
through oral questioning.
Your assessor will sign off an outcome when all
criteria have been competently achieved in a
single client service.
Achieving range
The range section indicates what must
be covered. Ranges should be practically
demonstrated as part of an observation. Where
this is not possible other forms of evidence may
be produced. All ranges must be covered.
Your assessor will document the portfolio
reference once a range has been competently
achieved.
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Maximum service times
There are no maximum service times that apply
to this unit.

Outcome 1
Be able to make and style a hair addition
You can:
a. Communicate and behave in a professional
manner
b. Select products, tools, equipment and
accessories to achieve the desired effect
c. Produce a woven weft of hair on a weaving
frame
d. Produce a final finished hair addition
e. Style the woven weft of hair using
permanent styling techniques
f. Present the final finished styled hair
addition
g. Provide suitable aftercare advice
h. Record techniques, products, tools,
equipment and accessories used to achieve
the finished hair design
i. Follow safe and hygienic working practices
j. Evaluate the finished hair design
*May be assessed through oral questioning.
Observations
Observation 1 2 Optional
Date achieved
Criteria questioned orally
Portfolio reference
Assessor initials
Learner signature
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*You must practically demonstrate that you have:
Range
Considered all influencing factors Portfolio reference
Desired finished result
Haircut
Hair length
Hair texture
Hair density
Hair colour
Degree of curl
Head size and face shape and features
Produced all types of weft Portfolio reference
2 strand
3 strand
Short hair (minimum 15 cm)
Long hair (minimum 20 cm)
Given all types of advice Portfolio reference
Suitable aftercare products and their use
Maintenance of the style
*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not
possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.
UV30500

Achieving knowledge outcomes
You will be guided by your tutor and assessor
on the evidence that needs to be produced.
Your knowledge and understanding will be
assessed using the assessment methods listed
below:
• Observed work
• Witness statements
• Audio-visual media
• Evidence of prior learning or attainment
• Written questions
• Oral questions
• Assignments
• Case studies
Developing knowledge
Where possible your assessor will integrate
knowledge outcomes into practical observations
through oral questioning.
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Knowledge
Outcome 1
Be able to make and style a hair addition
You can:
k. Describe how to maintain hair additions
l. Describe hair styling techniques for hair additions for men and
women
m. Describe the aftercare advice that should be provided
n. Outline safe and hygienic working practices
o. State how to communicate and behave within a salon environment
*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned.
Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.
UV30500
Portfolio reference /
Assessor initials*

Outcome 2
Be able to develop a mood board
You can:
a. Develop a mood board which incorporates woven hair additions
and accessories, and takes into account influencing factors
b. Describe how to develop a mood board
c. Outline the purpose of a mood board
d. Outline how to present a mood board which incorporates hair
additions, accessories and ornamentation
e. Describe the main styles of wigs and hair additions used in
historical civilisations and cultures
f. Explain how wigs and hair additions are used in modern society
g. Describe the employment opportunities for wig making and hair
additions specialists
h. Describe the influencing factors that need to be considered when
creating a hair addition
*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned.
Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.
Portfolio reference /
Assessor initials*
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Unit content
This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you
to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the
opportunity to cover all of the unit content.
Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition
Professional communication in a salon
environment: Try to avoid technical
language, always respond, consider client
confidentiality.
Verbal – speaking (tone of voice, the
language you use, how quickly and
clearly), questioning (open, closed,
probing).
Non-verbal – body language, positive
attitude (your posture, facial expressions,
hand gestures, the distance you stand),
listening (be patient, try to understand).
Written – visual aids, magazines, client
records.
Behave professionally in a salon
environment: Follow health and safety
practice and procedure, salon code of
conduct, respect others, value client(s),
co-operate with others (be sympathetic,
fair, not aggressive), use appropriate
language, avoid gossip, maintain
confidentiality, polite/cheerful and friendly
manner (friendly facial expressions, open
body language, positive attitude, eye
contact), sensible behaviour, team work,
take pride in work, be punctual, employer
and client loyalty.
Products, tools, equipment and
accessories used:
Products – use manufacturers’ instructions
for product use on wigs and hair pieces,
using the wrong product can make the hair
look matted and lank or have no effect,
avoid product build-up.
Natural hair – cleaning fluids
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(tricholerthylene fluids), neutralising rinse,
styling lotions/gels, mousse, setting lotion,
hair spray, dressing cream.
Synthetic hair – only use shampoo and
water to clean hair, (wax, serum or shine
spray can be used).
Tools and equipment – clamps, weaving
sticks, drawing brushes, bees wax, jockey/
clip, hair, brigoudi, jigger, pinching irons,
postiche oven, heater, boiling water,
drying cabinet, malleable blocks of varying
sizes, polythene to cover the block, block
holder, postiche pins, personal protective
equipment (gloves, towels), tape, rollers,
clips, brushes, scissors, razor, cutting
combs, hood dryer, hand dryer.
Accessories – tissue paper, end paper,
thread, weaving silk, paper, bowl, back
mirror, hair net, wig box, neck brush,
ornamentation (feathers, bows, buttons,
beads, ribbon, additional hair, tiara,
combs).
How to produce a woven weft of hair
on a weaving frame: Set up the weaving
frame, number the silks, place prepared
hair in brushes, draw off a fine section, hold
in one hand, the hair is woven in and out of
the silks, alternating the odd number silks
in one direction with even number silks in
the opposite direction, slide the weaving
close to previously woven hair, place the
jockey clip close to the weft, starting and
finishing knots are required for all methods.
Density of weft – number of times the hair
is woven.

Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition (continued)
2 string fly weft – the finest of all weaving,
a neat finish.
Twice in weaving – slightly thicker than
once.
Thrice in weaving – thickest of all.
Diamond mesh – has a wire in the weft.
Types of hair additions:
Pin curl weft – take a wire pin (looks like
a roller pin), using pair of pliers bend up
the ends, hook this into the weaving at the
finished knot end and thread a needle with
length of silk, match hair colour, stitch the
pin curl through centre of weft/pin wire,
cover metal pin completely, finish off with a
silk cap. The sewing thread is continually
wound around so there is a smooth edge
between wire and hair, cover with tissue
paper and press the cap between heated
pinching irons.
The torsade – piece of postiche that curls
at 2 ends, secured in centre.
Diamond mesh – normally worn on the
crown, can be moulded and stitched into a
pattern.
Pin wave – a flat weft stitched in by blanket
stitch, and finished with 6 loops from one
side to the other.
The marteau weft – has 2 loops and is
stitched flat, both ends attached by grips.
Pin curls – attached by placing a grip
through the loop.
Torsades/double loop clusters – one
loop is formed at either end so can be
attached by a grip.
Permanent styling techniques: Frisure
force is the name given to permanent
curling.
Equipment required – bigoudis (wooden
curlers various sizes), comb to assist with
winding, pan of boiling water to make
the permanent curl, drawing brushes for
holding the hair, drying cabinet for drying
the curls, pre-heat before use, jigger to
hold the hair, end papers to protect hair
ends neatly, towels to blot the hair, scissors
and thread, when tying the hair into
bundles, water jug.
Method – secure the hair in the jigger,
dampen hair with water (add small amount
of acetatic acid, to help soften the hair),
place end paper around the hair ends,
evenly wind onto the bigoudi, secure
the hair with the thread, place in a pan
of boiling water for 30 minutes, remove
carefully, blot on towel to remove excess
water, place in the postiche oven until dry,
cut the thread and remove the paper, pin
curls may be styled by placing in pinching
irons, permanent crimping can also be
achieved, this hair is used for crepe pads
or pompadour rolls, present the curl on a
piece of A4 card or by attaching wired weft/
hair piece into the hair.
Provide suitable aftercare advice:
Important part of service, avoid technical
language, maintain eye contact, suggest/
advise/recommend, provide information.
Maintenance – frequency of visit, regular
services, minimise chemical treatments,
correct use of electrical equipment, product
use and demonstration, stops them matting
or loosening.
Product information and use –
demonstration, relevant literature/leaflet.
Cleaning – after 12-15 wears synthetic or
real hair.
Styling tips – techniques, tools, electrical
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Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition (continued)
appliance settings.
Life span of addition – approx 9 months.
How to maintain hair additions: Keep
hair piece either pinned to a block or in
a moth proof box, when not in use clean
regularly, do not wear to bed, remove
properly (avoid pulling on natural hair),
attach safely to avoid damage to own hair
(remove grips gently), brush with correct
tools, clean with correct products.
Complete client records: Manual or
computer, contact information, type
and colour of hair, the cost, hair piece
required, tools and equipment, product
usage, date of service, changes to
service, contra-indications, problems,
cost of service, test results, aftercare,
requirements for hair piece or wig
(measurements), style required, estimated
price of work to be carried out, date of
fitting, the colour (attach a sample).
Salon health and safety legislation
and regulations: Health and safety at
work, control of substances hazardous
to health, reporting of injuries, diseases
and dangerous occurrences, personal
protective equipment, electricity at work,
manual handling, supply of goods and
services, trade description, data protection,
employers’ liability (compulsory insurance),
occupiers’ liability, local by-laws (set by
council), salon rules, code of conduct,
observance by all staff.
Evaluate the service/results: What
worked well/what did not, benefits,
compare against original brief, end result,
client satisfaction, draw conclusions.
Hair styling techniques for hair
additions:
Synthetic hair – must only be washed in
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soapy water and left to dry naturally, they
cannot be styled, as the hair will melt,
pre-set style will bounce back when dry.
Natural hair:
Roller setting – pin the postiche on a soft
block, choose roller size (for style), dampen
hair lightly, use neutralising lotion (if
working on white hair), take clean sections
(avoid pulling the knots), set in the required
style, secure the rollers (without pulling the
foundation and causing distortion), cover
with a net, use tissue paper to prevent
discolouration (if working on white hair),
dry the postiche in a warm oven or hood
dryer (white hair naturally or cool oven),
after drying allow to cool, dressing out (with
great care to avoid damage to the knots),
carefully place net over the finished style
and return wig to the oven to set the style,
dressing cream to control the hair. Hair
additions placed in style before the final
dressing of the hair, make a large pin curl
with slightly backcombed hair and slide the
comb in which is attached to the weft, if
the weft has no combs use grips to attach
through the loops.
Blow drying – may be used, be careful
of disturbing the knots, dampen the hair
lightly, if working with white hair use a
neutralising lotion, blow dry as normal
(gently).

Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board
Mood board: Presentation tool used to
display ideas/thought process, a poster,
collage, collection of ideas, story behind
an image, resources can include pictures,
text, objects, materials, accessories, woven
hair, (gives visual effect of design, ability to
identify texture/feel/colour of woven hair,
touches all senses).
How to develop a mood board: Hard
copy or electronic, begin with a brief/plan,
focus on developing the sensory aspect,
assemble a mosaic of source material,
inspiring and relevant, create a collage,
refer to brief, be creative, photograph large
items that cannot be added, include hair
swatches, additions, range of expressive
visual media (magazines, newspapers,
leaflets, photographs, leaflets collected
from shops, galleries, museums, your own
sketches, copies from other artists and
designers), samples of (fabric, wallpaper,
thread wool, sample cards from DIY
stores), natural materials (leaves, flowers,
stems, seed, pods, shells, feathers,
stones).
Purpose of a mood board: Communicate
to target audience, set the scene/storyline,
share concept, express mood/feelings
behind image, visual aid, launch a project.
How to present a mood board: Formal/
informal presentation, an actual board
or via computer software, PowerPoint
presentation, additional props/clothes/
make-up/accessories/jewellery, prepared
speech/prompt cards, professionalism,
varied communication skills (body
language, tone, clarity, projection of voice),
interpersonal skills.
The historical use of wigs and hair
additions: Ancient cultures that used
wigs (Assyrians, Phoenicians, Greeks and
Romans).
Ancient Egyptians – used as a shield
from sun (shaved head), all same style.
Japanese – Geisha, elaborate styles using
ornamentation, men’s wigs (Perukes/
periwigs).
King Louis XIII of France – Roman style.
16th century – fair, wavy on the top, tied in
the neck (American colonials).
Ramillies – smooth through top, curly
around sides, plaited in neck.
17th century – extraordinarily elaborate,
covering the back, shoulders, flowing
down chest, shoulder length or longer,
‘post-restoration’, full bottomed wig,
powdered, distinctive white/off-white colour.
18th century – men’s wigs became
smaller, more formal, adopted as part of
official costumes, the bob wig (curled tied
wig/campaign), women’s wigs (coiffure,
built around large frames, elaborate
designs).
Barristers – favour the late 18th century
style.
Judges’ wigs – everyday use, court
dress (short version), ceremonial occasion
judges/QCs wear full-bottomed wigs.
The use of wigs and hair additions in
modern society: Daily or occasional basis.
Film, theatre, television – to create an
image, disguise.
Temporary change of image – used
for lengthening, thickening, adding curls,
colour, fun occasions (costume parties).
Individuals experiencing hair loss –
male patterned baldness, cancer, alopecia
areata.
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Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board (continued)
Orthodox Jewish law (Halakha) –
requires married women to cover hair for
reasons of modesty (sheitels).
Employment opportunities for wig
making and hair additions specialists:
Specialist subject, wig makers (measure,
fit and sell wigs), wig knotters (only knot
hair onto a gauze to be further developed),
repairing wigs, wig making for judges/
barristers, factory wig maker, working on
machines (mass production), working in the
theatre, film, television and music industry,
hair stylist (to maintain wig).
Factors that influence services: Previous
chemical services, percentage of grey,
client requirements, tools and equipment,
presence of added hair, maintenance of
style suitability.
Hair condition – dry, greasy, normal,
virgin, chemically treated, elasticity
(strength of hair), porosity (damage to
cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture).
Hair cut/style – uniform layer, one length,
short graduation, long graduation.
Temperature – body heat, salon
temperature, added heat.
Texture – fine, medium, coarse.
Length – short, medium, long.
Density – fine, medium, thick.
Growth patterns – cowlick, widow’s peak,
nape whorl, double crown, male pattern
baldness.
Skin tone – fair, medium, olive, dark.
Face shape – oval, round, square, oblong,
heart, pear.
Head size – large, medium, small.
Existing curl – tight, soft, wave.
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Lifestyle – job, family, financial, time.
Test results – good, bad, caution, positive,
negative.
Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can
prevent/alter service, product, technique.
Type of conditions – skin disorders
(disease, infestation, infection, defect,
bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites).
Skin sensitivities – reaction.
Allergies – latex, nut, plasters, perfume,
oil.
History of allergic reaction – positive
reaction to skin test, colour service.
Incompatible products – metallic salts,
previous chemical treatments.
Medication – prescription medication.
Medical condition – high blood pressure,
pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer.
Hair condition – chemical, heat damage,
environmental.
Hair disorder – contagious/
non-contagious.
Skin disorder – contagious/
non-contagious, cross-infection (stylist to
client, client to stylist).
Contagious:
Bacterial – impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow
crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis
(yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pusfilled
spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or
under skin).
Viral – warts (raised, rough skin, brown),
herpes (blisters).
Fungal – tinea capitis/ringworm (patches,
pink/grey, scaly, broken hair).

Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board (continued)
Animal parasites – pediculosis capitis
(head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood),
scabies (parasites, mites).
Non-contagious:
Psoriasis – over production of skin cells,
dry, silvery, scales.
Cicatrical alopecia – scarring.
Alopecia totalis – complete hair loss.
Male pattern baldness – hair recedes at
hairline or loss crown.
Traction alopecia – excessive pulling,
brushing, curling and straightening.
Alopecia areata – stress, bald patches
Seborrhea (excessive oil).
Dandruff – itchy, white, skin cells.
Dry scalp – white, powdery.
Eczema/dermatitis – allergic reaction to
detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping.
Acne – raised bumps and spots.
Defects of the hair:
Fragilitas crinium – split, dry ends.
Monilethrix – beaded hair.
Trichorrhexis nodosa – rough, swollen,
broken shaft.
Sebaceous cyst – sebum filled lump.
Damaged cuticle – dull hair.
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Notes
Use this area for notes and diagrams