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PASSPORT publisher, John Ortega, is also a familiar figure<br />
and generous patron. The chef sent out a delightful “amuse<br />
bouche”, a spoon of chopped fresh tuna with a tall shot glass<br />
of gazpacho. We went over to check out the fresh catch-of-theday.<br />
John selected a Dover Sole, to be prepared a la Meuniere,<br />
cooked whole in butter, lemon juice and parsley. Live shellfish<br />
sat out their last hours in a large multi-level aquarium: Brittany<br />
lobster (1150r per 100g), Kamchatka crab (790r per 100g),<br />
clams, and oysters including some huge Kurile Island fellows,<br />
as much as 20 centimeters long. I decided to try a couple of<br />
the Kuriles (220r each).<br />
I ordered from the menu: Canadian Lobster Salad with Lyonnaise<br />
Sauce (1650r), Crispy Roll-ups Stuffed with Kamchatka<br />
Crab and Madagascar Shrimp (990r) and Black Ravioli with<br />
Crab Meat and Sweet Pepper Sauce (1250r). The oysters were<br />
out first, and needed to be separated into several pieces to get<br />
down. I found them a little too “tasty” to finish. The Canadian<br />
lobster was firm and wonderful, and as good as anything I’ve<br />
had in Maine or Massachusetts. It was well matched with the<br />
fresh greens and perfect Lyonnaise sauce. The crispy roll-ups<br />
were essentially small triangular, fried spring rolls, very good,<br />
and the homemade black ravioli was also very pleasing. John<br />
was very satisfied with the Dover Sole, a real compliment since<br />
he is a regular at Le Dôme in Paris, the masters at this dish.<br />
The menu has a few non-fish entries: Duck Leg “Confit”, Angus<br />
Fillet with Foie Gras and some meats for the grill. Surprisingly<br />
the menu lacks sushi and only has a sparse collection of<br />
shellfish sashimi.<br />
The wine list is predominately white. We enjoyed a very<br />
good New Zealand Villa Maria Cellar Select Sauvignon Blanc<br />
(3100r). I saw Italian Cervaro della Sala listed, which I use as a<br />
wine list price index, at 8100r, for an index of 4.05.<br />
The setting at Peshi is perfect, the service very good, the<br />
fish fresh and well and properly prepared. But I left with one<br />
nagging thought: Peshi, like many “elitny” restaurants in Moscow,<br />
reminds me of a doll at GQ Bar: she looks perfect, but will<br />
she love me, and can I love her? In this city does it matter? P<br />
Peshi<br />
Kutuzovsky Prospekt 10<br />
+7 499 243 3312<br />
www.peshi-restoran.ru<br />
Wine & Dining<br />
Charles Borden is the <strong>Passport</strong> <strong>magazine</strong> wine and dining<br />
editor and publishes The Big Onion, a blog about the Moscow<br />
restaurant scene (www.the-big-onion.com).<br />
January 2011
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