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BEST NATIVE LANDSCAPE PLANTS FOR THE PINEYWOODS<br />

August 16, 2010<br />

Dr. Dave Creech, <strong>SFA</strong> Mast Arboretum ( dcreech@sfasu.edu )<br />

<strong>Stephen</strong> F. <strong>Austin</strong> <strong>State</strong> University,<br />

Nacogdoches, TX 75962-3000<br />

http://arboretum.sfasu.edu<br />

APPRECIATING NATIVE PLANTS<br />

The great American horticulturist Andrew Jackson Downing (1815-52) was a noted pomologist,<br />

landscape designer and <strong>plants</strong>man. Native Notes: A Newsletter Devoted to Landscaping with Native<br />

Plants. The question posed is as pertinent today as it was in 1851.<br />

“It is an old and familiar saying that a prophet is not without honor, except in his own country, and as we<br />

were making our way this spring through a dense forest in the state of New Jersey, we were tempted to<br />

apply this saying to things as well as people. How many grand and stately trees there are in our<br />

woodlands, that are never heeded by the arboriculturist in planting his lawns and pleasure-grounds;<br />

how many rich and beautiful shrubs, that might embellish our walks and add variety to our shrubberies,<br />

that are left to wave on the mountain crag or overhang the steep side of some forest valley; how many<br />

rare and curious flowers that bloom unseen amid the depths of silent woods, or along the margin of wild<br />

water-courses. Yes, our hot-houses are full to the heaths of New Holland and the Cape, our parterres<br />

are gay with the verbenas and fuchsias of South America, our pleasure-grounds are studded with the<br />

trees of Europe and Northern Asia, while the rarest spectacle in an American country place is to see<br />

three or four <strong>native</strong> trees, rarer still to find any but foreign shrubs, and rarest of all, to find any of our<br />

<strong>native</strong> wild flowers.<br />

Nothing strikes foreign horticulturists and amateurs so much as this apathy and indifference of<br />

Americans to the beautiful sylvan and floral products of their own country. An enthusiastic collector in<br />

Belgium first made us keenly sensible of this condition of our countrymen..by telling us that amateurs<br />

and nurserymen who annually import from him every new and rare exotic that the richest collections of<br />

Europe possess, could scarcely be prevailed upon to make a search for <strong>native</strong> American <strong>plants</strong>, far<br />

more beautiful, which grow in the woods not ten miles from their own doors. Some of them are wholly<br />

ignorant of such <strong>plants</strong>, except so far as a familiarity with their names in the books may be called an<br />

acquaintance. Others knew them, but considered them "wild <strong>plants</strong>," and therefore, too little deserving<br />

of attention to be worth the trouble of collecting, even for curious foreigners. "And so," he continued, "in<br />

a country of azaleas, kalmias, rhododendrons, cypripediums, magnolias, and nyssas--you never put<br />

them in your gardens, but send over the water every year for thousands of dollars worth of English<br />

larches and Dutch hyacinths. Voila le gout Republique!"<br />

In truth, we felt that we quite deserved the sweeping sarcasm of our Belgium friend. We had<br />

always, indeed, excused ourselves for the well known neglect of the riches of our <strong>native</strong> Flora, by<br />

saying that what we see any day in the woods is not the thing by which to make a garden distinguished-<br />

-and that since all mankind have a passion for novelty, where, as in a fine foreign tree or shrub, both<br />

novelty and beauty are combined, so much the greater is the pleasure experienced. But, indeed, one<br />

has only to go to England, where 'American <strong>plants</strong>' are the fashion (not undeservedly) to learn that he<br />

knows very little about the beauty of American <strong>plants</strong>...Perhaps the finest revelation of this is the<br />

clumps and masses of our azaleas and rhododendrons, which embellish the English pleasure-grounds.<br />

In some of the great country-seats, whole acres of lawn, kept like velvet, are made the ground-work<br />

upon which these masses of the richest foliaged and the gayest flowering shrubs are embroidered.<br />

each mass is planted in a round or oval bed of deep, rich, sandy mould, in which it attains a luxuriance<br />

and perfection of form and foliage, almost as new to an American as to a Sandwich Islander. The<br />

Germans make avenues of our tulip trees, and in the South of France, one finds more planted<br />

magnolias in the gardens than there are, out in the woods, in all the United <strong>State</strong>s. It is thus, by seeing


them away from home, where their merits are better appreciated, and more highly developed, that one<br />

learns for the first time what our gardens have lost by having none of the "American <strong>plants</strong>" in them. “<br />

Isn’t it interesting that most of the trees used in East Texas landscapes are <strong>native</strong>s and most<br />

shrubs are not? Traditions in our plant heritage appear most to blame behind this dichotomy, a<br />

landscape evolution that has led to our present urban landscape philosophy. After all, most early<br />

settlers were too busy worrying about survival to be concerned with landscaping their property. The<br />

interest was with food CROPS - grains, vegetables and fruit dominated their motivation. After security<br />

and a little prosperity settled in, Americans (immigrants with a recent memory of the Old World) were<br />

eager to surround themselves with familiar <strong>plants</strong> from their homeland. Showy, flowering <strong>plants</strong> were<br />

preferred for the home site and old standards made their mark. Quinces, Forsythias, and Spiraeas dot<br />

the south because they are very durable, tend to survive with humans around or not. Native <strong>plants</strong><br />

often failed to make inroads. It was easy for early settlers to move small shrubs, cuttings, and seeds<br />

from one location to another. With <strong>plants</strong> came design. Each ethnic group carved out a philosophy of<br />

display and utility; the swept floor, yard fence, farm garden/orchard and an assortment of perennials<br />

characterized many southern homescapes. Old <strong>plants</strong> - many that lost favor as trends and fashion<br />

concepts changed - are now enjoying a resurgence of interest in a garden public starving for plant<br />

information and for <strong>plants</strong> that last.<br />

In the vernacular of the times, the <strong>native</strong> “xeriscape” garden is one designed to include species<br />

that will survive and thrive without irrigation. In our area of Texas, we can successfully cultivate many<br />

of the dry lovers from this portion of the state and parts west. Besides creating an attractive and less<br />

demanding landscape, a properly maintained xeriscape can conserve a considerable amount of water.<br />

Think about it: each year, Fort Worth area residents pour more than 11 billion gallons of water on their<br />

lawns and gardens, enough water to fill Lake Worth. The cost of providing a safe and plentiful water<br />

supply continues to rise. The average Fort Worth resident's water bill more than doubles during the<br />

summer months of June to September. As much as 50 percent of this additional water is used to<br />

irrigate lawns and gardens. Landscape experts agree that a lawn can be maintained in an attractive<br />

and healthy appearance with up to 50 percent less water than is typically used. Practicing xeriscape<br />

principles results in sustainable landscapes, and at the same time creates attractive and unique<br />

gardens that result in the highest water savings.<br />

The degree of interaction by humans and the “natural” landscape can create differences of<br />

opinion. Surely, we all recognize that <strong>native</strong> plant communities are useful in many types of landscapes,<br />

including urban sites, and are best used to reflect a connection with the <strong>native</strong> natural world. While<br />

only slightly contrived, landscapes that are dominated by the smart use of <strong>native</strong> <strong>plants</strong> are the best<br />

landscapes. In the Mast Arboretum and Ruby M. Mize Azalea Garden which is a mixed (<strong>native</strong> and<br />

non-<strong>native</strong>) landscape, we attempt to extend beyond nature's exemplary combining of plant species. "In<br />

selecting plant combinations, we set out to achieve in a mortal life span what has taken nature<br />

thousands of years to accomplish" (Flint, 1987). What we are attempting to do at the Pineywoods<br />

Native Plant Center and <strong>SFA</strong> Recreational Trails and Garden is skip a succession generation and lay<br />

out a smart selection of <strong>native</strong> trees and shrubs – with diversity, mapping, and documentation the rule.<br />

To position <strong>plants</strong> correctly one should first consider their needs (soils, light, moisture, shade, and how<br />

well they deal with competitive forest root systems. While landscapers can enjoy great latitude in<br />

integrating a diverse palette of plant materials into a garden design theme, some combinations make<br />

little sense – choosing <strong>plants</strong> on light, moisture and soil preferences still allows a limitless list to choose<br />

from. The following woody <strong>native</strong>s are suggested for East Texas and recommendations are based on<br />

observations at the <strong>SFA</strong> Mast Arboretum and Pineywoods Native Plant Center.


ACERACEAE<br />

Acer rubrum Red Maple<br />

THE BEST NATIVE TREES AND SHRUBS FOR EAST TEXAS<br />

Height: to 40' - Leaves: simple, opposite, 3 to 5 lobed, deciduous<br />

Flowers: dioecious, bright red flowers in very early spring.<br />

Color selections are available known for fall foliage brilliance. Full sun, well-drained soils, good<br />

moisture in establishment years, brittle, relatively short-lived. 'Autumn Flame' and 'October<br />

Glory' are good cultivars. We are promoting ‘King’s Highway’, a selection by Sherwood Aikens<br />

of Sibley, Louisiana, found in Shreveport with brilliant red foliage. Acer rubrum var. drummondii,<br />

the Drummond red maple or swamp red maple, tolerates wetter sites.<br />

Acer saccharum Sugar maple<br />

Height: 60'<br />

Leaves: simple, opposite, to six inches across, 3 to 5 lobed.<br />

Flowers: inconspicuous<br />

There's some confusion between this species and Acer barbatum, the Florida maple common in<br />

the woods of east Texas. Has performed well in full sun if mulched and watered first few years.<br />

Good fall color, light bark, good shade tree. Not for poor, harsh landscapes. Like many maples,<br />

sensitive to bark injury via weedeaters and lawnmowers.<br />

AQUIFOLIACEAE<br />

Ilex ambigua Carolina holly<br />

Height: 6 - 12 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, April-June<br />

Use as per deciduous holly, full sun, inconspicuous flowers in April/May; red berries in October<br />

and November, full sun to a little shade; very sandy, well-drained acid soils; We have had poor<br />

luck establishing the plant at the arboretum, probably because we have done a poor job of site<br />

preparation (improving drainage). The plant is beautiful and somewhat rare and is often at<br />

home as a forest edge specimen on very sandy soil.<br />

Ilex decidua Deciduous holly<br />

Height: 7 - 15 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green, lustrous changing to yellow in the fall (deciduous)<br />

Fruit: orange to scarlet, September


One of our favorites; gaining in popularity; multi-stem specimen, red and orange berried<br />

cultivars available. 'Warren's Red', 'Council Fire', and 'Pocohantas' are good selections. The<br />

PNPC and <strong>SFA</strong> Mast Arboretum are home to over a dozen cultivars. A mature multi-stem<br />

deciduous holly can be quite stunning. Variety evaluations in side by side comparisons are<br />

needed. Prefers full sun to almost full sun – some genotypes sucker more than others –<br />

suckers easily moved to another location to start a new plant. See a good plant? Check for<br />

suckers – and bring us one!<br />

Ilex glabra Inkberry<br />

Height: 6 - 8 feet<br />

Leaves: lustrous dark green sometimes yellow green (evergreen)<br />

Fruit: black berry, September-May<br />

Wetland <strong>native</strong> excellent for foundation, hedges, masses, or as an accent plant. Slow-growing.<br />

Deserves more investigation. Hot plant in the trade. ‘Shamrock’, ‘white-fruited’ and many other<br />

varieties under test in the Arboretum.<br />

Ilex opaca American holly<br />

Height: to 30' although dwarf forms available.<br />

Leaves: lustrous green, spiny.<br />

Fruit: red berries in late fall on fruiting selections.<br />

The <strong>SFA</strong> Mast Arboretum’s original signature plant, long ago lost in history. Certainly<br />

underutilized and not as popular as the hybrids with nurserymen, simply because they grow<br />

faster, sell faster. American Holly grows a bit slow. Lots of attributes: evergreen, dense foliage,<br />

bright red berries in fall and winter (yellow berried forms available), striking bark interest, few<br />

pests, and extremely durable once established. Full sun, moderately well-drained soils best.<br />

Responds to irrigation and enhanced soil nutrition; shallow root system benefits by a mulching<br />

program. Considered to be slow growing in the landscape. Sensitive to weed eaters when<br />

young. <strong>SFA</strong>SU Arboretum has over 30 cultivars under evaluation and many look strong. Quite a<br />

variation in growth rates. ‘Maryland dwarf’ and ‘Clemson Spreading’ are interesting dwarf<br />

forms. Yellow berried forms as well.<br />

Ilex verticillata Coralberry<br />

Height: 6 - 10 feet<br />

Leaves: deep rich green (deciduous)<br />

Fruit: bright red, August-September<br />

Grows well in wet, poorly-drained soils and deserves more use in such sites. Deciduous; good<br />

fall color; acid soil but reported to tolerate higher pH. We have eight cultivars in the arboretum<br />

that look good. I’m still trying to locate 'Chrysocarpa', 'Fastigata', 'Padifolia', and 'Naria.’


Ilex vomitoria Yaupon<br />

Height: 2'(dwarfs) to 20+ feet.<br />

Leaves: small, evergreen.<br />

Fruit: red, yellow, October - November<br />

Good selection of cultivars, very durable landscape plant. Weeping, fastigate, and dwarf forms<br />

available. Full sun preferred. 'Jewel', 'Otis Miley' (yellow fruit), 'Yawkeyii' (yellow fruit), 'Folsom's<br />

Weeping', 'Fleming Upright', and many others perform well. While relatively free of insects and<br />

diseases, a leaf psyllid has been a problem in Nacogdoches landscapes, causing new growth<br />

and leaves to contort and fail to unfold fully. There's probably some resistance out there.<br />

BIGNONIACEAE<br />

Bignonia capreolata cross vine<br />

Height: depends on structure, will climb 30 - 50 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green turning reddish purple in cold weather<br />

(semi-evergreen)<br />

Flower: orange to red trumpet shaped, April-June and sporadic throughout the year.<br />

An absolutely stunning evergreen vine for east Texas. Needs good positioning to maximize<br />

impact. Young plant grows best in morning till noon shade and the plant flowers best when the<br />

crown can get full sun. Moist soils when young; vine is very drought tolerant when well<br />

established. 'Atrogsanguinea' is an excellent red color selection. We also have ‘Tangerine<br />

Beauty’, ‘Helen Friedel’, ‘Jekyll Island’, and ’Dragon Lady’. Plant needs the head of plant able to<br />

enjoy full sun when mature.<br />

CAPRIFOLIACEAE<br />

Viburnum acerifolium Maple-leaf viburnum<br />

Height: 4 - 6 feet<br />

Leaves: bright green changing to red or purple in fall (deciduous)<br />

Flower: yellowish white, June<br />

A rather rare <strong>native</strong> shrub in east Texas. A shade-tolerant species with brilliant fall colors<br />

(creamy-pink, rose, red, to grape juice purple). Appreciates a well-drained soil with good<br />

moisture for first few years. Somewhat difficult to locate in the trade.<br />

Viburnum dentatum Arrow-wood viburnum<br />

Height: 6 - 15 feet


Leaves: dark green changing to yellow or reddish purple in fall<br />

(deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, cream colored due to yellow stamens, May<br />

Responds to pruning. Tree or bush form. Thicker plant when grown in full sun. Moderately welldrained<br />

soils. Good performer in the Arboretum.<br />

Viburnum rufidulum Rusty blackhaw<br />

Height: 4 - 8 feet as a shrub, 8 - 20 feet as a tree<br />

Leaves: dark green changing to red in fall (deciduous)<br />

Buds are covered with a deep rich rusty brown pubescence, hence the name; excellent plant<br />

and should be used more widely. Bright white flowers in the spring and some genotypes have<br />

have great fall color. Part shade, moist soils..<br />

Viburnum nitidum Witherod<br />

Height: 12'<br />

Leaves: lustrous green<br />

Flower: white in May,<br />

Semi-evergreen, lustrous green leaves, white flowers in May; responds to pruning by becoming<br />

dense. Needs more use.<br />

Viburnum nudum Possumhaw viburnum<br />

Height: 12'<br />

Leaves: Opposite, simple, variable.<br />

Flower: Off-white, dense, 4" across.<br />

Another full sun to part shade species. Moist soils. We have an outstanding plant in the bog in<br />

wet soil that has bright red leaves in the fall.<br />

CELASTRACEAE<br />

Euonymus americanus strawberry bush<br />

Height: 4 - 6 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green changing to yellow green in fall (evergreen)<br />

Flower: 5 petaled greenish purple, July-September


Goes unnoticed until September or October when the warty, scarlet capsules open to display<br />

orange seeds. From this character it gets it's other common name "hearts-a-burstin". Not<br />

susceptible to scale. We have a Dodd narrow-leafed and an "evergreen" selection.<br />

CUPRESSACEAE<br />

Taxodium distichum var. distichum Baldcypress<br />

Height: 100’<br />

Foliage: needles in splay, fall foliage color variable<br />

This deciduous conifer should be planted everywhere. Name a tree that lives thousands of<br />

years, is relatively free of insects and diseases, produces valuable lumber, can live in water, is<br />

tolerant of drought when it’s well established, lets the light in during the winter when you need it.<br />

Puts on a cloak of green in the summer when you need it more. Knees can be a nuisance.<br />

Central Texas Taxodiums are less like to push knees. There are many varieties but they are<br />

hard to find. ‘Cascade Falls’ is a dramatic weeper. <strong>SFA</strong> is home to about as many Taxodium<br />

genotypes as anywhere in the world. Taxodium distichum var. Imbricarium is Pondcypress and<br />

is generally considered <strong>native</strong> to SE Louisiana and states east of that. There is a magnificent<br />

in-the-swamp Pondcypress in SE Texas at Shangrla Botanical <strong>Gardens</strong>.<br />

CYRILLACEAE<br />

Cyrilla racemiflora Swamp Cyrilla - TiTi<br />

Height: 10 - 25 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green above, bright green below changing to orange in fall (persistent)<br />

Flower: striking white 6" inflorescence, June-July<br />

Also known as titi, a beautiful shrub for foliage and spider-like flowers, can be grown from zone<br />

6 south, belongs in a naturalistic wetland setting. Full sun; attractive to bees.<br />

FAGACEAE<br />

Quercus alba White oak<br />

Height: 50 - 80 feet<br />

Leaves: grayish pink when unfolding, then turning dark green changing to red or wine colored in<br />

fall (deciduous). Doubtful for high use due to slow growth, and difficulty in transplanting;<br />

however, this is a majestic and worthwhile tree for large areas. Long-lived.<br />

Quercus incana Bluejack oak<br />

Height: 12 - 30 feet<br />

Leaves: grayish green above, white below (deciduous)<br />

Landscape Value: small, nicely shaped tree for poor sandy sites.


Quercus lyrata Overcup oak<br />

Height: 30 - 50 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green and leathery changing to tannin brown in fall (deciduous)<br />

Fruit: almost entirely covered, hence the name. Good choice for difficult sites (flooding and<br />

slopes).<br />

Quercus shumardii Shumard oak<br />

Height: 50 - 70 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green and lustrous, turning orange in fall (deciduous)<br />

Landscape Value: very desirable due to unique leaf shape, works well as an accent plant,<br />

brilliant fall color.<br />

Quercus stellata Post oak<br />

Height: 40 - 60 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green, cross shaped with rounded edges (deciduous)<br />

Landscape Value: dense round topped crown with stout spreading branches.<br />

Quercus michauxii Swamp chestnut oak<br />

Height: 20 - 60 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green lustrous above, silvery white pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Grayish flaky bark, heavy mast producer for poorly drained sites. Good fall color.<br />

Castanea pumila Allegheny chinkapin<br />

Height: 12 - 20 feet<br />

Leaves: yellowish green above, white pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Fruit: nut enclosed in a bur with spike like clusters. Most trees form clumps resulting from<br />

repeated dieback and sprouting (Chestnut blight).<br />

HAMAMELIDACEAE<br />

Hamamelis virginiana Witch-hazel<br />

Height: 20 - 30 feet<br />

Leaves: medium green changing to yellow in fall (deciduous)<br />

Flower: yellow fragrant, October-December.


Works well in a shrub border, near buildings in shaded areas.<br />

HIPPOCASTANACEAE<br />

Aesculus arguta Texas buckeye<br />

Height: 15 - 20 feet<br />

Leaves: rich green lustruous, 7-9 leaflets (deciduous)<br />

Flower: yellow 4-8 inches, March-May; Stunning in early spring as leaves are unfurled.<br />

Aesculus pavia Red buckeye<br />

Height: 10 - 20 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green lustrous, 5 leaflets (deciduous)<br />

Flower: red to white, March-May; Handsome tree in flower, best in full sun.<br />

A must have for the serious <strong>native</strong> garden – great flowers – tough as nails, having learned long<br />

ago to go to sleep fairly early. Loses leaves in the end of summer.<br />

LEGUMINOSAE<br />

Gleditsia triacanthos Honey locust<br />

Height: 30 - 70 feet<br />

Leaves: bright green changing to yellow in fall (deciduous)<br />

Flower: greenish yellow, fragrant; Excellent lawn tree for filtered shade; 'inermis' is without<br />

thorns and much preferred.<br />

MAGNOLIACEAE<br />

Magnolia grandiflora Southern magnolia<br />

Height: 60 - 80 feet<br />

Leaves: lustruous dark green above, pubescent below (persistent)<br />

Fruit: rose red; Flower: creamy white and fragrant, 8-12 inches, May-June<br />

Landscape Value: handsome, worthwhile tree, needs room to develop. ‘Little Gem’ and<br />

‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’ are semi-dwarfs. Many exciting new cultivars.


Magnolia macrophylla Bigleaf Magnolia<br />

Height: 30-40 feet.<br />

Leaves: 12-32 inches long, 7-12 inches wide, bright green and glabrous above, silvery gray and<br />

downy below, (deciduous)<br />

Flower: creamy white, 8-10 inches across, 6 petals, fragrant, June<br />

A round-headed, cumbersome, deciduous landscape specimen; needs to be positioned out of<br />

the wind; A fine candidate for the edge of a creek in a sheltered location with part sun for four to<br />

six hours per day. Can burn in a drought so should be positioned to receive an emergency<br />

irrigation during the worst dry spells. Giant leaves the main interest but flowers are huge,<br />

fragrant and awe inspiring. Litter problems makes this a better woodland plant than a specimen<br />

for the well-manicured yard. Being hit by a 30"-long leaf is not funny to the average homeowner.<br />

Magnolia pyramidata Pyramid magnolia<br />

Height: 25 to 40 feet<br />

Leaves: 6-8 inches long, bright green above, (deciduous)<br />

Flower: 6-15 petalled, 4 inches in diameter, creamy white<br />

A rare plant in Texas known only from one provenance on the Jasper/Newton county line. A<br />

slender tree with ascending branches; likes moist rich soils; works well along creeks or streams,<br />

adds flavor to the landscape with leaf and bark interest; worthy of introduction into East Texas<br />

landscapes to "rescue" the species.<br />

Magnolia virginiana Sweet bay<br />

Height: 10 - 50 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green above, white below (deciduous)<br />

Flower: creamy white, lemon scented, May-June<br />

Graceful small specimen tree, foliage is handsome in wind as it buffets the leaves exposing the<br />

underside. M. virginiana var. australis is semi-evergreen in the <strong>SFA</strong>SU arboretum. Dodd's<br />

nursery, Semmes Alabama is marketing a little-leaf, little-bloom dwarf sweet bay that appears to<br />

have merit. Ours has been very slow to get started! Prefers moist soil but quite tolerant of dry<br />

soils once well established.<br />

MYRICACEAE<br />

Myrica cerifera southern wax myrtle<br />

Height: 10 - 20 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green glossy above, yellow dotted below (evergreen)


Excellent pruned screen, tolerates infertile soils, leaves and berries are used in making<br />

pottpouri, this plant gives us the bayberry scent. ‘Emperor’ has unusual lacy foliage. Myrica<br />

pusila is smaller statured and more difficult to find. Tolerant of most soil types. Numerous new<br />

cultivars have yet to be fully tested in East Texas.<br />

OLEACEAE<br />

Chionanthus virginicus fringe tree<br />

Height: 12 - 20 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green and lustrous (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white fragrant, 6-8 inches, May-June; Beautiful specimen tree, good in groups,<br />

outstanding in flower, does well in cities due to it's tolerance to air pollution. Full sun, welldrained<br />

soils.<br />

RUBIACEAE<br />

Cephalanthus occidentalis button bush<br />

Height: 6 - 10 feet<br />

Leaves: bright green lustruous above, lighter pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Fruit: red or brown rounded mass of nutlets<br />

Of special interest during the brief flowering period with white "balls" that cover the plant; does<br />

well in moist sites, has a rather loose gangly appearance. Full sun. Worthwhile screening<br />

candidate for moist locations.<br />

ROSACEAE<br />

Crataegus brachyacantha blueberry hawthorn<br />

Height: 4 - 12 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green above, pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, 5 petaled turning orange with age<br />

Extremely showy when flowering, likes moist sites, full sun, susceptible to rust.<br />

Crataegus opaca mayhaw<br />

Height: 4 - 12 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green above, rusty pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, February-March


Prefers to have it's feet wet, does well in moist soils, full sun, outstanding in bloom. Great small<br />

tree. Fruit is prized for jelly making .<br />

Prunus mexicana mexican plum<br />

Height: 6 - 10 feet<br />

Leaves: shiny yellowish green (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, clustered on branches, May-June<br />

Prefers moist sites, fruit is edible and sweet and is eaten by many birds and animals.<br />

Prunus serotina black cherry<br />

Height: 50 - 60 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green changing to yellow or red in fall (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, May<br />

Tall, straight noble tree whose fruit is used in the making of homemade wine or jelly. Short-lived<br />

and borers may be a problem in stressed sites. Often one of the first succession species.<br />

SAXIFRAGACEAE<br />

Itea virginica Virginia sweetspire<br />

Height: 3 - 9 feet<br />

Leaves: bright green changing to crimson in fall (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, upright, fragrant, April-June<br />

A robust shrub. Flowers at a time when few <strong>plants</strong> are in flower. Prefers moist to wet sites. Not<br />

utilized enough in home landscapes, holds it's leaves a long time. 'Henry's Garnet' has a longer<br />

inflorescence and enjoys excellent fall color. The cultivar has performed well in the <strong>SFA</strong>SU Mast<br />

Arboretum and PNPC over many years. 'Longspire' and 'Sarah Eve' (not quite pink) are<br />

available. ‘Saturnalia’ also in the garden.<br />

STYRACACEAE<br />

Styrax americanus American snowbell<br />

Height: 6 - 8 feet<br />

Leaves: bright green (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white bell shaped, hang down instead of facing up, May-June


Slender multi-stem, rather wispy shrub: appreciates cool moist acidic sites: excellent for<br />

southern gardens. S. americanus var. pulverlenta is a smaller statured form. Has performed well<br />

in full sun, mulched, with moderate irrigation during summer months.<br />

Styrax grandifolius bigleaf snowbell<br />

Height: 8 - 12 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green above, pubescent below, (deciduous)<br />

Flower: white, fragrant, May-June<br />

Prefers moist acidic sites, another good choice for southern gardens. Conditions as to American<br />

snowbell. Mix with azaleas and maples in woodland garden. Dappled shade.<br />

Halesia diptera two-wing silver bell<br />

Height: 20 - 30 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green and glabrous above, pubescent below (deciduous)<br />

Flower: 4 lobed, white, bell shaped, May<br />

Performs best on moist, yet well-drained sites, it is a beautiful, small, rounded tree usually<br />

multiple stemmed or low branched.<br />

SYMPLOCACEAE<br />

Symplocos tinctoria sweet leaf<br />

Height: 6 - 15 feet<br />

Leaves: dark green and lustrous (persistent)<br />

Flower: yellow, fragrant, April-May<br />

Fruit: orange to brown<br />

One of the handsomest of fruiting shrubs and should be used in every park, bird sanctuary, or<br />

home landscape, a plant in full fruit is spectacular.<br />

THEACEAE<br />

Stewartia malecodendron silky camellia<br />

Height: 10 - 18 feet<br />

Leaves: 4 inches long, dark green (deciduous)<br />

Flower: 2-3 inch diameter, white petaled, purple filamented, blue anthered, May-June


Beautiful flowering small tree for moist but well drained sites, hard to propagate. Known from<br />

only two locations near Burkeville, Texas this plant is not for the faint of heart. Slow growing in<br />

most but well drained sites. Part shade to shade, sandy soils, moisture during establishment<br />

years. Fertility requirements unknown. We have several fine specimens in the <strong>SFA</strong> Mast<br />

Arboretum. Thought to be susceptible to Phytophthora?<br />

VERBENACEAE<br />

Callicarpa americana american beautyberry<br />

Height: 3 - 8 feet<br />

Leaves: medium green, pubescent (deciduous)<br />

Flower: light lavender pink, June-August<br />

Fruit: violet to magenta berry<br />

Deciduous shrub for massing, have seen it under pine trees with excellent effect. Slope<br />

planting; best fruiting in full sun. Purple berries with white form available.<br />

NATIVE HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS FOR SOUTHERN LANDSCAPES<br />

It's no secret that herbaceous perennials are making a strong impact on East Texas landscape<br />

thought. Much more can be done. Educating the public is a smart first step. Simply put,<br />

herbaceous perennials survive year to year from the same root. Many are pruned to near the<br />

ground after the first heavy frosts in the fall. Many woody <strong>plants</strong> that make large bushes when<br />

grown further south can be included in this group when we grow them in our gardens in<br />

Nacogdoches (i.e., Salvia greggii and Anisacanthus wrightii). While not exactly "herbaceous"<br />

(lacking woody tissue), they are utilized functionally in the landscape as perennials and return<br />

from the same root or crown region year after year. I have also included in our discussion many<br />

perennials that do not return from a clump or root but are, instead, generally perpetuated by the<br />

heavy self-sowing nature of the species (i.e. Lupinus (bluebonnets), Aquilegia spp.<br />

(columbines), and Ratibidas (conehats).<br />

Pure perennial borders in the old World fashion provide season-long waves of color, texture,<br />

and form. The only aspect that is constant is change. To manage a perennial border one must<br />

learn to recognize what is what and to respect plant requirements. Species that want to "take<br />

over" should be prevented from encroaching into areas occupied by the less competitive but<br />

equally valuable types. Perennial borders require an understanding of plant performance under<br />

local conditions. Many "perennials" sold in the nursery trade are not likely to return year after<br />

year. The species described in this treatise are likely candidates for a perpetual border in this<br />

section of East Texas. This is a work in progress and is not complete.<br />

While southern gardening used to include numerous perennials tucked in pockets around<br />

foundations or out in the yard, they have fallen out of favor with preferences toward splashes of<br />

massed annual color and a foundation of evergreen shrubbery. Perennials do take a little care<br />

but, once established, they are generally much less work. Generally, a clump of three or five is<br />

needed to give the desired effect. Over the years, I have found that it is very easy to lose a<br />

special plant by just placing one in the border . . . a larger colony insures impact and<br />

sustainability. The following list is based on <strong>SFA</strong> Mast Arboretum observations


Anisacanthus wrightii and insignis, Flame Acanthus or Texas Firecracker Plant, is <strong>native</strong> to<br />

Mexico and West Texas. This woody plant reaches three feet and is hardy in Nacogdoches<br />

through most winters. The plant flowers on new growth and a vigorous specimen is very showy.<br />

It will consistently return from the roots and should be pruned close to the ground after the first<br />

frost. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the orange-red blooms. This plant is<br />

sometimes called "desert honeysuckle." The plant is very drought tolerant with no apparent<br />

disease or insect problems. Propagate by seed, softwood or hardwood cuttings. Dry Garden.<br />

Aquilegia canadensis, Red Columbine, is a plant meant for the fern garden. It needs shade and<br />

moisture. While it only reaches one foot high, the blooms are very delicate and are held above<br />

the foliage. This is one of the showiest little woodland perennials in East Texas. Propagates by<br />

seed or division af clumps. A. hinckleyi or longissima is <strong>native</strong> further to the west, has a paleyellow,<br />

showier bloom but is sensitive to hard freezes. These two species are quite different<br />

from the hybrid columbines which behave best only as cool-season annuals. ‘Texas Gold’<br />

columbine is a CEMAP promotion.<br />

Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly weed, is a <strong>native</strong> that's worth cultivating more. Bright, yelloworange<br />

flowers are heavy in summer for about three to four weeks. While easily established in a<br />

sunny, well-drained soil, the root system should never be disturbed and <strong>plants</strong> are difficult to<br />

transplant. The plant reaches two feet tall and is a food source for numerous butterflies. Yellow,<br />

red, or orange cultivars are available. The plant never needs staking and gets showier year after<br />

year. The plant emerges late from the ground so don't weed it out. It is easily propagated from<br />

seed. New colony adjacent to the rock garden at top of steps by herb garden.<br />

Callirhoe involucrata, Winecup, ranges from Texas north into Canada. The common plant<br />

prefers full sun and a well-drained bed. Winecups tend to disappear in the summer, then<br />

emerge in the fall for a second display. It is propagated by seed or tuber. The <strong>plants</strong> are<br />

invasive in fertile, well-drained landscapes.<br />

Camassia scilloides, Wild Hyacinth, reaches two feet and sports an attractive blue flower spike<br />

in April and May. Use them as you would daffodils and try not to disturb them once they find a<br />

home in which they prosper. They tolerate full sun but appreciate some protection from mid-day<br />

and afternoon exposure. Plant the bulbs four inches deep in late November. You might want to<br />

try combining Lantana, daffodils, and Camassia for long season-long color.<br />

Chrysanthemum leucathemum, Ox-eye Daisy, is <strong>native</strong> to the northeast corner of Texas and the<br />

eastern United <strong>State</strong>s. It grows to only one foot tall and makes a nice evergreen groundcover. It<br />

appreciates full sun and can be ppropagated by seed or division. The two-inch daisies bloom<br />

from April to frost if the spent flowers are occasionally "mowed" away. While it does spread, it is<br />

reported to be less invasive than Shasta Daisy. Reliable and tough in the Arboretum.<br />

Cooperia drummondii, Rain Lily, is <strong>native</strong> to our area and makes neat, attractive clumps. White<br />

flowers appear in September to October. The foliage stays green all year and the bulbous <strong>plants</strong><br />

love a mulch. They bloom heaviest in the fall and can be divided almost anytime provided<br />

sufficient moisture is available. This plant should not be confused with the popular Rain Lilies<br />

most often found in the Texas trade, Zephyranthes. There are exciting new rain lilies coming out<br />

of Mexico. Rabbits like these <strong>plants</strong>. Plant the bulbs four to six inches deep in a sun to part<br />

shade, sand-to-clay location.<br />

Coreopsis grandiflora, Baby Sun Coreopsis, is available in a number of hybrid cultivars; many<br />

are excellent for our area. Try "Baby Sun" or "Sunray". The plant reaches one foot and blooms<br />

in the spring and summer with a cloak of bright yellow flowers. C. lanceolata, Golden Wave, is<br />

<strong>native</strong> to East and Southeast Texas, reaches two feet tall and prefers a full sun location. C.<br />

tinctoria is an annual with a dark red spot in the center of a yellow bloom. All are easily<br />

propagated by division, cuttings, layerings, and seed.<br />

Cuphea micropetala, Cigar plant, is also called "Mexican oleander" and is attractive as three to<br />

four foot mound even when not in bloom. It is drought-tolerant, has shiny lance-shaped leaves


and attracts hummingbirds. The tubular yellow to red flowers are borne on a twelve inch flower<br />

spike. The plant blooms in the summer and fall and needs a sunny, well-drained area.<br />

Delphinium virescens, White or Prarie Larkspur, is very tolerant of hot weather and is <strong>native</strong> to<br />

the Edwards plateau and norhtward. Give it one of your best, well-drained garden spots and,<br />

because the plant plant is tall and slender, make sure you plant several starts in a clump.<br />

Generally, the plant is only one to two feet tall but under optimal conditions it can grow to over<br />

five feet. This species is not to be confused with numerous delphiniums offered in Texas<br />

nurseries, few of which can make it through the summer. The plant is poisonous so don't plant<br />

where livestock can browse.<br />

Echinacea angustifolia, Purple Coneflower, is best planted as an improved cultivar. Although the<br />

<strong>native</strong> is beautiful in its own right, varieties like "Bright Star" are reported as better garden<br />

<strong>plants</strong>. We are working with our own seedlings and appear to have a mixture of E. purpurea,<br />

pallida and angustifolia. Flowering begins in April and ends at first frost. An excellent cut flower<br />

candidate, the plant can be propagated by seed or division. The white cultivars have been<br />

ephemeral for us. Full sun and a well-drained soil are required. While the plant itself seldom<br />

exceeds eighteen inches, I have seen flower spikes over four feet tall. Prone to die-outs,<br />

disease-based. Seedlings often numerous.<br />

Eupatorium caelestinum, Perennial Ageratum, Blue Boneset, or Foamflower, is an Ageratum<br />

look-alike. It grows to two feet tall, and blooms from late July to November. It's lavender blooms<br />

can make luxurious mass. It is very heat and drought tolerant. It is invasive in full sun fertile<br />

areas so be ready to keep it in a restricted area.<br />

Eustoma grandiflorum, Texas Bluebell, is probably the best grown from seed and treated as an<br />

annual. It is <strong>native</strong> to Colorado, Nebraska, New Mexico, and Texas. This wildflower has been<br />

picked by roadside visitors in some places to the point that it has been lost. The two to three<br />

inch blooms are generally lavender, appear in June, and last until August.<br />

Gaillardia spp., Indian Blanket, is available now in several garden forms. Perennial selections<br />

such as "Little Goblin" make tight mounding florferous <strong>plants</strong> for the garden. They are heat and<br />

drought tolerant. G. pulchella is <strong>native</strong> and can be established in any well-drained garden where<br />

reseeding is allowed. The plant begins blooming in May. Keep the spent blooms cut off and the<br />

plant will bloom though the summer. About August let the plant go to seed. Next spring weed<br />

out any seedlings that have left your desired spot. The plant is invasive and is commonly<br />

propagated by seed. Gallaria astaevalis is a rarely seen East Texas <strong>native</strong> with merit; yellow<br />

flowers and interesting yellow-globe seed heads that persist are key attributes.<br />

Gaura lindheimeri, is one of the Arboretum favorites. Reaching four feet with light airy blooms,<br />

the species is most at home in a full sun dry location. Dependabe, rugged and the perfect plant<br />

for the front or mid portion of the East Texas border. The pink form ‘Siskiyou Pink’ is very showy<br />

and gaining in popularity. There are a number of varieties coming on board. ‘Dauphine’ reaches<br />

four feet and new blooms are white blending to pink as they age. ‘Whirling Butterflies’ is of<br />

slightly shorter stature. Native to Texas, Louisiana and Mexico, the species is root hardy and<br />

has been a dependable member of the dry garden here for years.<br />

Hebranthus texanus, Copper lily, is a one foot plant that loves swampy, sunny places. It is<br />

<strong>native</strong> to East Texas and looks beautiful massed in front of garden beds. The bright yellow<br />

blooms appear in September.<br />

Helianthus maximiliani, Maximillian Daisy, does get large. Ours grew to six feet tall in Bed B.<br />

This fall bloomer forms a tenacious clump that gets larger every year. The three-inch yellow<br />

flowers appear in the fall and are quite showy. The plant needs to be at the back of a perennial<br />

border and needs a short statured plant at its front, primarily to hide shoots that are often sparse<br />

in foliage near the ground. With full sun, a well-drained soil, and minimal care, this plant will<br />

return year after year.<br />

Hibiscus coccineus, militaris, moscheutos, laevis, dasycalyx, and others are becoming a<br />

favorites. Plan on seeing some of the new colonies that we are encouraging in the LaNana


creek area. H. coccineus, Texas Star Hibiscus, is considered by some to be a <strong>native</strong> while<br />

others argue that the plant is originally from Brazil. It has performed well for us in the garden.<br />

We have several flats of Hibiscus interspecific hybrids that should be interesting. There are few<br />

flowers that are as showy as the Texas Star. Give all species a loose, loamy soil full of organic<br />

matter; fertilize lightly and water generously. The plant loves to be placed near water. Each year<br />

that goes by involves an enlargeing of the clump plus numerous seedlings nearby. Mature<br />

<strong>plants</strong> are very competitive. H. militaris, Soldier Rose Mallow, is found in a white and pink<br />

flowered form. Both are intersting. Some of you may have noticed the single specimen in Bed F.<br />

While the plant should probably be cut to the ground after the first frost, I found the branching<br />

and seed pods to be an intersting winter accent. H. moscheutos, Common or Swamp Rose<br />

Mallow, grows to eight feet tall and wide, often covered with a cloak of three to four inch wide<br />

flowers in white, pink, or rose. The Confederate Rose, H. mutabilis, with pie-sized flowers in a<br />

wide range of colors, is almost too gaudy for some gardeners. Give the plant a protected but<br />

sunny spot and it will return year after year. The <strong>SFA</strong>SU Arboretum is impressed with another<br />

Hibiscus: Hibiscus cannabensis, a gift from a Woodsville, Texas gardener. A prolific, lavender<br />

bloomed plant to six feet. Similar in habit to Hib. coccineus but with spiny stems and serrated<br />

leaves. While not winter-hardy, this has been a worthwhile plant to carry over in a cool<br />

greenhouse.<br />

Hymenocallis liriosme, Spider lily, hhas elegant flowers four to six inches wide. The plant is<br />

<strong>native</strong> to wet places in Texas and north Arkansas and Oklahoma. The two-foot tall plant needs<br />

lots of water in a sunny garden spot. H. caroliniana is similar and is <strong>native</strong> to the southeastern<br />

United <strong>State</strong>s. Blooms appear in April and May, unfurl in late afternoon, and are very fragrant.<br />

Ipomopsis rubra, Red Gilia or Standing Cypress, ranges from Central Tezas to the eastern<br />

United <strong>State</strong>s. The plant can reach six geet in the best sites. Bloomin our area is in May to July<br />

and lasts for four weeks or longer. Best propagates by seed because of a strong taproot, the<br />

plant can be encouraged in your garden by carefully promoting seedling development each<br />

year. The plant needs full sun and is drought tolerant. When the flower spike has bloomed, cut it<br />

off to promote reblooming. Inflorescence is generally a very bright orange. Easy at the Arb.<br />

Iris brevicaulis, Louisiana Iris, is <strong>native</strong> from Alabama to Texas to Kansas to Ohio. This is just<br />

one of the Louisiana Iris types. There are now many hybrid types offered and I'll leave it to the<br />

taxidermists to sort out the species. Iris giganticaerulea X fulva X foliosa types are popular. The<br />

<strong>plants</strong> prefer a sun to part-shade area and appreciate a heavy cover of mulch. Plant next to a<br />

wet area, a pond, a ditch, or stream for best performance. Provide with azalea fertilizer and they<br />

will bloom better.<br />

Kosteletzkya virginica, Seashore Mallow, is in the same family as Hibiscus, Malvaceae. It is<br />

<strong>native</strong> from New York to Florida and then west to Louisiana. Cut the plant back to just above<br />

ground; propagate by cuttings or moving seedlings from base of plant. Full sun and moist fertile<br />

soils are preferred.<br />

Lantana sellowiana, Trailing Lantana, is <strong>native</strong> to central and western Texas and is well adapted<br />

to the deep South, escaping from cultivation in many locations. It is very drought tolerant, once<br />

established, and can be pruned to the ground each year. A heavy mulch is reommended to<br />

privent freezing of the crown. The plant looks best massed in a summy area. Numerous<br />

cultivatars are now availabe. We have established several in the bottomland park. L. horrida, or<br />

Texas Lantana, is also <strong>native</strong> and has a pungent "horrid" smell when the leaves are crushed. L.<br />

camara var. 'mista' (West Indian Lantana) has found a home over much of Texas, has larger<br />

leaves, but generally looks much the same. Lantana makes an excellent cover for spring<br />

flowering bulbs. By the time the blooms are spent, Lantana is leafing out and effectively hides<br />

the leaves of daffodils until they can brown and dry naturally. We participated in the 1996 TAMU<br />

CEMAP trial (cooperative educational marketing assistance plan) - down the lines of vines -<br />

about 20 Lantana cultivars, plus Salvias and Scaveola there.<br />

Liatris spp., Gayfeather, is a must for the East Texas garden. L. puntata (one to three feet) adn<br />

L. pycnostachya (three to five feet) are the most drought tolerant. L. spicata is <strong>native</strong> to the


eastern United <strong>State</strong>s and is most often what is available from nurseries. While it grows well<br />

here, look for others in specialty catalogs. We have a magnificent plant in Bed B. It was almost<br />

five feet tall this past fall and bloomed from September until October. I also learned this past fall<br />

that it is loved by bees. A few years ago, while showing the plant off to a tour group, I reached<br />

over to hold the plant and got a ridiculous sting on the end of my nose. End of tour. Our <strong>plants</strong><br />

never needed staking. After bloom, cut the flower stalks to the ground. Did have a nice bed at<br />

the base of the herb garden; was 'accidentally' weeded (rototiller) by one of our work-studies.<br />

Lobelia cardinalis, Cardinal flower, is another <strong>native</strong> well adapted to a dappled-shade part of<br />

your garden. We discovered several natural clumps right on the LaNana creek bank and are<br />

trying to encourage their spread. Brilliant red blooms in September are the main calling card for<br />

this two-foot to four-foot tall plant. Propagate by cuttings, seed, layering, or root division. It is not<br />

robust and must be encouraged to spread. Place it with your azaleas or in any well-watered<br />

location. Mulch heavily. To encourage the plant's spread, place a shoot or two down and layer<br />

with mulch. Cardinal flowers are great hummingbird attracters and bloom as the birds are<br />

migrating south tthrough Texas. On a trip to the San Madre Oriental mountains, we found an<br />

impressive colony in bloom. The scarlet flowers were set on robust three-foot <strong>plants</strong> that had<br />

found a home right on the edge of a small stream course. We have nice <strong>plants</strong> in the bog - that<br />

now arise spontaneously. We have a dwarf form recently found in Mexico.<br />

Lupinus texensis, Texas Bluebonnet, has been the center of much publicity lately. TAMU has a<br />

maroon bluebonnet and a program to turn bluebonnets into pack <strong>plants</strong>. Problem is getting pack<br />

<strong>plants</strong> to bloom right among other problems. It has been a well recognized state flower and it<br />

can be grown rather easily in any sunlit garden if a few rules are followed. The nursery business<br />

is now offering bluebonnets in small container sizes which makes an easy way to encourage<br />

their spread in your garden. L. subcarnosus, is probably best adapted to our part of the state but<br />

the remaining four species in Texas can be grown here. The bluebonnets in Bed B came from<br />

six small two-inch bluebonnets set in 1986. They have self-sown every year since. This raised<br />

bed provides several feet of well-drained soil and was limed prior to planting. The bluebonnet<br />

seedlings that emerged in the first and second winter and spring were not weeded out during<br />

the first weedings of each spring. Key to success: after bloom, the plant was allowed to dry and<br />

brown (a four or five week process). The seed pods were allowed to split and seed was<br />

scattered in other pockets of the bed. Seed germination is often erratic. To naturalize, select an<br />

infertile hillside site. Add limestone if needed. Scatter seed in the fall and "scratch it in". Several<br />

years of seeding may be necessary.<br />

Machaeranthera tanacetifolia, Tahoka Daisy or Tansy Aster, is <strong>native</strong> to the Trans-Pecos south<br />

to central Mexico and north to Alberta, Canada. It only grows to two feet tall and is often cloaked<br />

with two-inch, lavender flowers from May to frost. The leaves are fern-like, sticky, and usually<br />

form a dense one-foot mound. It needs promoting in our area for soils that are sun-lit and welldrained.<br />

Malvaviscus drummondii, Turk's Cap, is <strong>native</strong> from the southeastern United <strong>State</strong>s to the<br />

Edward's Plateau of Texas. The plant can reach nine feet tall and is usually an evergreen along<br />

the coast. In Nacogdoches, the plant rarely exceeds five feet tall. Ti blooms from May to frost<br />

and will attract hummingbirds to your garden. After the first frost, stalks should be cut back to<br />

near the ground and the plant heavily mulched. Propagate by cuttings, seed, and clump<br />

division. We are very proud of the fine colonies of the white flowering form of Turk's cap - rare.<br />

We are also impressed with the variegated form - currently multiply that to make a large colony.<br />

Located in the shade garden and adjacent to the Texas Heritage Garden.<br />

Mentha piperita, Peppermint, is an aromatic perennial herb commonly planted in Nacogdoches<br />

landscapes. All cultivars appear to appreciate part-shade to shade, plenty of moisture, and<br />

fertile soils. They are invasive in moist areas and may die if forced to endure much time<br />

between waterings. Propagate by seed, by cuttings, and by division.<br />

Melampodium cinereum, Blackfoot Daisy or Mountain Daisy, can be placed just about<br />

anywhere. While <strong>native</strong> to limestone areas of Arkansas to Colorado to Texas, it will do quite well


here if provided with a neutral pH. It is low-growing and blooms from April to frost and is not<br />

tempermental about soil conditions. It will return each spring and be blooming about the same<br />

time as bluebonnets. Best flowering is in full sun but it tolerates part-shade conditions.<br />

Opuntia imbricata, Walking Stick Cholla, placed in a high and dry raised bed will make a striking<br />

accent cactus to six or more feet. Wet feet kills many that are planted in our area. Giben a one<br />

or two-foot bed of course sand, a little pine bark and limestone, it should live forever. Propagate<br />

by cuttings taken at the "elbows". The three-inch purple flowers are striking. Although slowgrowing<br />

and finicky about exces moisture, the final product is a striking accent piece to any<br />

garden. O. phaeacantha, Texas Prickly Pear, is much lower growing (one to three feet) and is<br />

slightly more tolerant of excess moisture than Walking Stick Cholla. Three to four-inch yellow<br />

flowers are spectacular. Both are hardy in our area and doing well in the Dry Garden, along with<br />

a variety of Agaves, Yuccas, and Dasylirions.<br />

Oxalis spp., Oxalis, can be a pest in the southern garden. A perennial, pink flowering cultivar is<br />

commonly grown in Louisianna and East Texas. It grows only eight to ten inches tall in partshade<br />

to shady areas. The plant blooms from late winter until late spring and the bulbs are best<br />

divided in the early fall. The clover-like foliage is attractive and the plant is usually dormant<br />

during the summer.<br />

Pavonia lasiopetala, Rock Rose, is well established in Bed B of the Phase 1 area. The plant<br />

grows to four or five feet tall and can be a rangy rascal unless pruned back annuslly. The pink<br />

blossoms are hibiscus-like, one and one-half inches across and scattered over the plant from<br />

May until frost. It grows better in a tight soil than in a sand but tolerates both well. While very<br />

drought-hardy, the plant can live with a little excess moisture. Cut back the plant each year to<br />

keep it trim and neat.<br />

Penstemon cobaea, Wild Foxglove, Beard Tongue, or Canterbury Bells, is a favorite of our Bed<br />

B collection of Penstemons. Native from the Texas Gulf Coast north and west to Nebraska, the<br />

plant blooms in May with light lavender flowers. Plants bloom white, lavender, and purple. The<br />

snapdragon-like flowers last for weeks in the garden and once spent, they should be cut back to<br />

the foliage clump. The plant rarely exceeds two feet and should be planted in a tight three or<br />

five-plant colony for best effects. Propagate by seed or division.<br />

Penstemon murrayanus, Scarlet Penstemon, blooms in the miid-summer heat on three-foot<br />

<strong>plants</strong>. The plant is <strong>native</strong> to East and North Central Texas and is very similar to P. havardii of<br />

the Trans-Pecos region. Both have rounded leaves that surround the stem. P. tenuous is<br />

another attractive <strong>native</strong> performing well in Bed B. Penstemons attract hummingbirds and<br />

butterflies and shoukd be clumped in groups of five or seven since they are very slender.<br />

Propagate by clump division or seed. Full sun and well-drained soils are preferred.<br />

Phlox divaricata, Louisiana Pholx or Wild Blue Plox, is <strong>native</strong> to East Texas to western Florida<br />

and north to South Dakota. Flower colors range from white to lavender to purple. the plant<br />

combines well with spring blooming bulbs. The small, dark, ground hugging leaves make low<br />

attractive clumps and provide an interesting border to any bed. Drought tolerant, the plant<br />

should be in every garden. Propagate by seed, division of clumps, or cuttings in early summer.<br />

Phox drummondii, Drummond's Phlox, grows to six inches and is a fairly common garden plant<br />

in our area. The plant self-sows easily in sand so be sure to recognize the young seedlings in<br />

the spring. They will quickly provide a blanket of white, pink, red, and purple flowers. The plant<br />

dies soon after flowering and going to seed, so plant below lantana or Pavonia to fill the space<br />

from June to frost.<br />

Physostegia praemorsa, Lionheart, False Dragon-Head, or Obedient Plant, is another popular<br />

Bed B herbaceous perennial. Native to our area and Louisiana, the plant reaches two feet tall. It<br />

is the shortest of the Physostegias and most drought tolerant. Our clumps sport a very pale<br />

lavender bloom in September and October. The variety "Summer Snow" is whit-flowered and<br />

blooms earlier than the species, P. virginica. The individual flower stalks protrude four to six<br />

inches above the leaves to make a striking statement if massed in groups of five or more. The


looms mae excellent, long-lasting cut flowers and can be arranged easily. The individual<br />

flowers can be gently pushed to a new position that they should hold in; thus the name<br />

"Obedient Plant". P. pulchella and P. angustifolia, and P. digitalis are East Texas <strong>native</strong>s with<br />

similar landscape value. The <strong>plants</strong> grow naturally in swampy places but are remarkably<br />

drought-tolerant if a mulch is utilized.<br />

Ratibida columnaris, Mexican Hat, is another June to frost bloomer for our area. The one to twoinch<br />

flowers are pure yellow to pure brown, usually red-brown in the center and yellow edges.<br />

The blooms are not dense enough to set aside in area for mass planting, but spotted here and<br />

there in three to five clumps, the plant is always a pleasant surprise. The plant gets denser year<br />

after year, returns from the clump and reseeds heavily. The annual, R. peduncularis, is very<br />

similar in appearance, reseeds, but does not return from the original clump.<br />

Rudbeckia hirta, Black-Eyed Susan, gives up great summer color. The plant needs enough sun<br />

to avoid mildw and should be grown like a zinnia. Gloriosa daisy is a cultivated perennial version<br />

that needs attention in our area. My attempts at growing the plant have been thwarted by<br />

excessive moisture in the spots that I have tried. Blooms are a full three inches across. Black-<br />

Eyed Susan self-sows, often at a great distance from the mother <strong>plants</strong>, so keep a watchful eye<br />

for the seedlings. The leaves of the tiny seedlings are easy to identify because they are soft and<br />

furry.<br />

Salvia farinacea, Mealy Cup Sage or Mealy Blue Sage, ranges over most of Texas. It reaches<br />

two to three feet in height and is sporadically covered with blooms from May to November. A<br />

blue and white form is available. Improved cultivars, like "Victoria", are available. Our <strong>plants</strong> in<br />

Bed B have survived well, but have failed to put on much of a display and appear sparse to me.<br />

Grow in full sun on a well-drained soil. Propagate by seed or cuttings.<br />

Salvia greggi, Cherry Sage or Autumn Sage, ranges in central, south, and west Texas. The<br />

plant makes a round, neat bush about two to three feet tall that covers itself in white, pink, or<br />

scarlet blooms. The <strong>plants</strong>, if not pruned and given some winter protection (like under the eaves<br />

of a house) can grow into quite a rangy mess. There are several landscapes in Nacogdoches<br />

that have been well -liked by all the Salvia. They appear to survive best when the landscape is<br />

neglected. The tight, dense plant is desired. This may interfere with bloom, however. It is<br />

probably best to prune "on demand", trying to time shearings with spent bloom, striving for a<br />

slender graceful plant. To date, I have not been totally pleased with S. greggii as a landscape<br />

plant in east Texas; they are leggy, transparent and fail to fill out, even in full sun. However, I<br />

have seen excellent specimens in east Texas and blame it on me. The <strong>plants</strong> are very droughtresistant<br />

and the leaves, when crushed, give off a crisp, pleasant fragrance. Easy to propagate<br />

by seed, softwood and hardwood cuttings. There is a plethora of color forms out there now . . .<br />

approaching saturation.<br />

Solidago spp., Goldenrod, is often despised for its contribution to hayfever. That association is<br />

probably not true. The Goldenrod is insect-pollinated, not wind-pollinated, and is highly sought<br />

after by numerous butterflies and bees. The plant reaches three feet or more and should be<br />

grouped in well-defined clumps where a bright yellow floral display might be needed. The <strong>plants</strong><br />

are fantastic in bloom. Other times of the year are a different story. They should be mowed<br />

almost to the ground after bloom. This leaves a green groundcover for the remainder of the year<br />

and through the winter. A much aligned plant for our area, particularly in bright, sunny, moist<br />

soils. Propagate by seed or division.<br />

Tagetes lucida, Mexican Marigold Mint, is a perennial marigold related to garden varieties being<br />

sold in nurseries. Native to West Texas and Mexico, many are finding favor in dry gardens. The<br />

plant we have is T. lemonii and it has performed well for two years in Bed B. It tends to naturally<br />

form a two-foot round mound. Blooms appear in the late fall. I have a wonderful slide of the<br />

plant taken January 1, 1987, that found the plant covered with bright yellow blooms. The plant<br />

should be pruned to within six inches of the ground. While drought-tolerant, better blooms and<br />

plant density shas only been possible with good waterings and light fertilizations. Easily<br />

propagated by cutting anytime of the year.


Thelesperma filifolium, Greenthread, False Golden Wave, is <strong>native</strong> to central Texas. Very<br />

similar to Coreopsis in bloom appearance, the plant is comfortable in high pH soils. Our first<br />

<strong>plants</strong> failed in an acid soil. The <strong>plants</strong> act as freely self-sowing annuals. The seedlings can be<br />

set where you want next year's display. T. simplicifolium is a perennial species that return from<br />

the root year after year. Provide a very well-drained soil, some organic matter, limestone, and<br />

bark mulch. Propagate by seed or root division.<br />

Tradescantia spp., Spiderwort or Virginia Day Flower, ranges over much of the United <strong>State</strong>s.<br />

There is little point in trying to understand the taxonomy of the many garden spiderworts that dot<br />

the country. Most are interspecific hybrids of varying origin. Bloom color can encompass a wide<br />

range of colors including blue, purple, pink, white, and white with a lavender throat. Some types<br />

reach two feet. They thrive under nearly all conditions. They can be used under a tree as a<br />

ground cover or allowed to fill an occasional pocket in the perennial border. A colony can be<br />

kept in bounds by annual weeding of the annuals. Propagate by seed or division of clumps.<br />

Verbena hybrida, Verbena, is available in many cultivars and is appreciated for color, easy<br />

culture, and heat tolerance. V.bipinnatifida, Prairie Vervena, ranges from South Dakota to<br />

Mexico and needs full sun and a well-drained soil to prosper. V. elegans var. asperata, Hardy<br />

Verbena, is <strong>native</strong> to Duval and Hidalgo counties in Texas and in Mexico. It tolerates drought<br />

and makes a one-foot plant. There are other perennial verbenas available. Propagates easily by<br />

cuttings, division of clumps, and seed. The Verbena trial runs down the row of crepe myrtles<br />

that line the Ag/Art parking lot. Unique trial.<br />

Viola odorata, Violets, flower during the winter and in early spring. They were popular in early<br />

Southern gardens. The plant appreciates shade, a moist, organic soil and is prone to spider<br />

mites in dry, exposed locations. The plant achieves a six to eight-inch height. Propagate by<br />

division.<br />

Yucca pallida, Pale Leaf Yucca, makes a one-foot clump and sports a three to five-foot flower<br />

stalk. It is stunning in bloom. Native to South Central Texas, the plant is only one of many<br />

promising Yucca species tha will probably find a place in East Texas landscapes. Their<br />

versatility, drought-tolerance, and tough dispositions are appreciated where environments are<br />

harsh. Y. rostrata and filifera look promising at this writing. Y. thompsoniana can reach ten feet<br />

and is a reliably hardy tree-type for our area. A raised well-drained bed is key to survival of this<br />

species in East Texas. I am still waiting on a progressive restaurant or fast-food place in<br />

Nacogdoches going for the ultimate dry-land, rock garden, desert display.<br />

Zigadenus nuttallii, Death Camas, is famous for its toxicity. The plant is <strong>native</strong> to north central<br />

Texas to Tennessee and Kansas. The flower spikes are well above the lustrous green, lily-like<br />

leaves. The flower heads are up to five inches wide and dramatic. The bulbs can be planted into<br />

any well-drainend loamy soil and mix well with daffodils and providing a later show. They bloom<br />

in April and May. Propagate by division of clumps or seed.<br />

NATIVE PLANTS OR EXOTICS OR BOTH?<br />

First, let’s get a handle on one of the big plant controversies of the times. No issue is hotter<br />

right now than the issue of <strong>native</strong> <strong>plants</strong> vs. exotics. The debate has taken on mythic proportions.<br />

There’s great passion on both sides. The central issue is “invasiveness” and that topic is now of great<br />

concern in the nursery trade because it is influencing legislation. The government is stepping in.<br />

There’s a proposed “white list” brewing. The anti-exotic crowd is invigorated and most of the nursery<br />

industry is in a “circling the wagons” frame of mind.<br />

It’s true that early pioneers brought in many of the old world <strong>plants</strong> to grace their homes and<br />

businesses. The memory of home and the <strong>plants</strong> that graced the landscapes there had much to do<br />

with that, a kind of fond nostalgic longing for home. The <strong>native</strong> flora was alien. After all, it was home to<br />

Indians and bears and hardships. Some feel that a snobbish attitude evolved against <strong>native</strong>s and no


expense should be spared to retrieve exotic <strong>plants</strong> from faraway places. The natural beauty of local<br />

<strong>plants</strong> was ignored.<br />

First, what is a <strong>native</strong> plant and what is an exotic? Classically, an exotic plant is one that does<br />

not have its normal range (provenance) in the area that it is being grown and sold. A <strong>native</strong> is one that<br />

occurs “naturally” in the region. Yet, many think of a <strong>native</strong> as “<strong>native</strong> to the U.S.” or “<strong>native</strong> to the<br />

state.” Thus a New York <strong>native</strong> plant grown in Texas might be considered a <strong>native</strong> or it might not; it<br />

would depend on whom you ask. Thus, Salvia greggii, <strong>native</strong> to the western portion of Texas might be<br />

considered a <strong>native</strong> when grown in East Texas . . . but is it really? Or, how about Itea virginica, the<br />

Virginia sweetspire, <strong>native</strong> to the wetlands of East Texas? It wouldn’t have a prayer in <strong>Austin</strong>, Texas,<br />

where calcareous soils and hot, dry conditions would spell out its doom. So, first define <strong>native</strong> as you<br />

want and then proceed.<br />

Some of the arguments preached for greater use of <strong>native</strong> <strong>plants</strong>:<br />

1. Natives are more disease and insect resistant. Not always. Some <strong>native</strong>s are quite easily<br />

attacked, disfigured, and even killed outright by indigenous pests. Dogwoods are an example. They<br />

are quite susceptible to stress and disease-related short life problems. A midge often disfigures<br />

yaupon foliage. Tent caterpillars can make a mess on oaks and pecans. Ask a catalpa what it thinks of<br />

the catalpa worm! There are hundreds of examples of diseases and insects that wreak havoc on<br />

<strong>native</strong>s.<br />

2. Natives are more drought resistant. This argument carries little weight unless the species is<br />

one that normally grows in dry climates and is adapted to dry soils. A <strong>native</strong> plant that normally finds its<br />

home in a swamp or stream-side may perform admirably in a drier site, but that’s not always the case.<br />

3. Natives are less invasive. Of course, in some cases that’s true. Some <strong>native</strong>s, however,<br />

are not quite so docile. In our region of Texas, seedlings of oaks and redbuds can sprout up in the<br />

thousands, making for a ubiquitous problem in the landscape. Some <strong>native</strong>s, on the other hand, are<br />

quite well behaved – offering up few seed or demanding seedling conditions difficult to duplicate in the<br />

landscape.<br />

4. Natives reflect the “natural” flora of a region. Well, of course, that’s true. Whether that’s the<br />

catchall, be-all is another question. There are also harmony, continuity, and balance-with-nature issues<br />

that drive the argument here. Ecological sensitivity. Environmental prudence.<br />

On the other side of the issue (exotics are good), the following arguments are often offered.<br />

1. Exotics are often very well adapted, trouble-free, and most present no invasive issues of any<br />

substance. No doubt about it: Plants from China, Japan and Korea make up a large sector of the<br />

nursery industry’s offerings in the U.S. Many of them have been here for over a hundred years with<br />

little invasiveness. Why are so many flowering shrubs from Asia sold in the U.S.? Well, for one<br />

reason, hardiness zones and climatic conditions in Asia can be found in regions there that closely<br />

imitate many locations in the U.S.<br />

2. Exotics are more floriferous, beautiful, and showier than most <strong>native</strong>s. Well, few would<br />

argue that many of the most colorful landscape <strong>plants</strong> in use today in the South can trace their origins<br />

back to Asia and there continues to be great excitement in new <strong>plants</strong> coming out of China, Japan and<br />

Korea today.<br />

3. Exotics can be durable, low-maintenance and drought tolerant. Of course that’s true. For<br />

example, one of the toughest exotic small trees gaining popularity in the South today is Chionanthus<br />

retusus, the Chinese fringe tree (a counterpart species to our very own <strong>native</strong>, C. virginicus, the <strong>native</strong>


fringe tree of the South). After the establishment year, this species is extremely drought tolerant and<br />

trouble free.<br />

On the other side of the issue (exotics are good), the following arguments are often offered.<br />

1. Exotics are often very well adapted, trouble-free, and most present no invasive issues of<br />

any substance. No doubt about it: Plants from China, Japan and Korea make up a large sector of the<br />

nursery industry’s offerings in the U.S. Many of them have been here for over a hundred years with<br />

little invasiveness. Why are so many flowering shrubs from Asia sold in the U.S.? Well, for one<br />

reason, hardiness zones and climatic conditions in Asia can be found in regions there that closely<br />

imitate many locations in the U.S.<br />

2. Exotics are more floriferous, beautiful, and showier than most <strong>native</strong>s. Well, few would<br />

argue that many of the most colorful landscape <strong>plants</strong> in use today in the South can trace their origins<br />

back to Asia and there continues to be great excitement in new <strong>plants</strong> coming out of China, Japan and<br />

Korea today.<br />

3. Exotics can be durable, low-maintenance and drought tolerant. Of course that’s true.<br />

For example, one of the toughest exotic small trees gaining popularity in the South today is<br />

Chionanthus retusus, the Chinese fringe tree (a counterpart species to our very own <strong>native</strong>, C.<br />

virginicus, the <strong>native</strong> fringe tree of the South). After the establishment year, this species is extremely<br />

drought tolerant and trouble free.<br />

Bottom line: Exotics are a huge part of the nursery industry. Every nurseryman bears the<br />

responsibility of producing and promoting <strong>plants</strong> that add to the well being of the society, and that<br />

includes producing <strong>plants</strong> proven to have low to no invasive qualities.

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