Background Study Tirupur - Fair Wear Foundation

sociation (TEA) Executive Secretary Mr. Ramanathan stressed the need to tackle
the high out-turn of workers from one company to another, and the low manmachine
per capita usage of imported machineries. Another example of how this
model impedes further development of the industry: ‘Last year, managers from
Sara Lee, the leading global lingerie brand, visited his factory (Astro Apparel) and
were impressed by the facilities. Not only were they willing to make him an approved supplier,
they were ready to place an immediate order that would keep his factory running for the
entire year. The only requirement was that Venkat would have to shut his factory by 6 p.m. -
in keeping with Sara Lee's good production practices. Now, this was a win-win arrangement.
His calculations showed that his workers would earn far more if they worked fewer hours, but
for the entire year. The workers couldn't see the point, so much so that Venkat had to eventually
decline the order from Sara Lee. "The labourers' attitude in Tirupur is just not conducive.
By stepping up productivity, we can produce 150% with the same machines and the
labourers will also earn more. But it is just too difficult to convince them" (Businessworld 5-4-
2004)
There is a marked difference between the position of tailors and cutters, and that of other
less skilled workers. Tailors and cutters often operate as semi self-employed, hiring one self
out to the highest bidder. They tend to have a greater preference for piece rates and less for
permanent contracts, although one should be careful to generalise.
In Tirupur, tailors and cutters are mostly male, contrarily to for example the Bangalore situation.
In general, the garment industry in Tirupur is less feminised than elsewhere.
3.2. Labour situation and wages
Living and working conditions of garment workers in general are bad. In the meetings several
problems concerning labour conditions were mentioned; wages are low and often based on a
piece rate system, workers have to work long hours in order to make a living. Complex
chains of subcontracting are present within the country and the sector is characterized by a
high number of small units. Even in larger factories minimum wages are not paid.” (CCC: Cooperation
between the Clean Clothes Campaign and Indian Trade unions and NGOs, 2001)
There is a strict hierarchy of jobs. Knitting machine attendants (in charge of the circular knitting
machines and responsible for the production of knitted fabric), cutters, and machinists in
the CMT units are all regarded as skilled jobs and the rates of pay are relatively high. There
are three main kinds of stitching or sewing machine: overlock, chainlock and flatlock. In addition
there are separate machines for button holing (sometimes subcontracted out to workshops)
sewing on buttons and labels. There are also hydraulic presses for flattening the
garments before packing. All these workers are assisted by (unskilled) helpers. There are
women machinists, but in contrary to for instance Bangalore, there are not a majority in Tirupur.
Ironmasters are also regarded as skilled workers as are packers, this may presumable
reflect the importance of these elements for export orders.
Trimmers and checkers, hand folders/bundlers and label putters are regarded as semiskilled.
These jobs are nearly all performed by women.
These differences are reflected in the TEA wage agreement (see 4.5)
The strict hierarchy of jobs off course hinders internal flexibilisation, where workers can take
over each others jobs and again re-inforces the dependency on the model of external flexibilisation
(hiring and firing persons on a day to day basis).
There is a marked difference between the position of tailors and cutters, and that of other,
less skilled workers. Tailors and cutters often operate as semi self-employed, hiring one self
out to the highest bidder. They tend to have a greater preference for piece rates and less for
permanent contracts, although one should be careful to generalise.
In Tirupur, tailors and cutters are mostly male, contrarily to for example the Bangalore situation.
In general, the garment industry in Tirupur is less feminised than elsewhere.
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