ZURICH - In Your Pocket

Restaurants Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Events Maps
N°13
zurich.inyourpocket.com
ZURICH
October - November 2012
“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Phoenix from
the mashes
Lots of new art
in an old brewery
Quick picks
All our favourites
on one page

NIEDERDORF - MARKTGASSE 12
Contents
Arrival & Transport 5
Get your bearings
Basics 8
Facts, habits, attitudes
Zurich’s districts 11
Know where to go
History 12
Once upon a time
A closer look 13
Löwenbräu - a new hub for contemporary art
Culture & Events 14
Concerts, shows and exhibitions
Quick picks 20
Zurich in a nutshell
The square at St. Peter is a lovely peaceful spot. AM
Advertisement
zurich.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS
When the wind gets up, the lake is great for sailing.
www.juanrubiano.com
Where to stay 21
Hotels, hostels, pensions
Restaurants 25
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more
Cafés 33
Chocolate, coffee and conversation
Nightlife 35
Bars, pubs and clubs
Gay Zurich 39
Zurich Nord 40
Restaurants and bars in the north of the city
What to see 41
Churches, parks and museums
Day trips 47
Mountains, museums, thermal baths
Zurich for kids 50
Major fun for minor citizens
Shopping 51
Famous jewellers and young Swiss design
Watches 56
Directory 59
From consulates to language schools
Maps & Index 60
City map 60
Public transport map 63
Street register 64
Index 66
October - November 2012
3

4 FOREWORD
It’s autumn and the cultural season is in full swing. As
always, Zurich has way more to offer than you might
expect of a city its size.
Take classical music. The local Tonhalle Orchestra
and the Zurich Chamber Orchestra both have a
full programme. But international names also like
stopping by: violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter will be
playing Britten this autumn, conductor Paavo Järvi
is coming to Zurich with Debussy and Stravinsky in
his luggage.
If you’ve had enough of classical culture, the
jazznojazz festival offers a rich bouquet of jazz – or
is it? For something totally different, hop on a tram to
the indoor cycle-racing event, the sixday nights, where
sports spectacle is combined with popular Swiss and
Austrian folklore music.
You’ll find all the details in our culture and events
section, besides a full-page feature on the newly
opened art hub at Löwenbräuareal. And if you’re
looking for museums, day trips, leisure tips or a good
restaurant or bar: you’ve picked up the right guide.
And one last little tip which didn’t make it into the
guide: pick up a bag of hot chestnuts, or marroni as
they’re called, from one of the street vendors. That’s
a quintessential Zurich autumn flavour.
Cover story
ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES
Zurich In Your Pocket
pocket publishing GmbH
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ISSN 1663-9944
© pocket publishing GmbH 2012
This issue’s cover is an image of
Sisley Xhafa’s Y-sculpture at dusk.
This newly installed sculpture in
Hardau Park, west of Langstrasse,
glows magically in different colours.
For more details see p. 44.
Photo: Matthias Villiger
spiritclub
Editorial
Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister
Research Lea Mastrobuoni,
Alfons Merzer, Nicolas Bansac
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
Photos Agata Muszyńska (AM),
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Rolf Müllestein (zuerichfoto.ch),
Michèle Amacker (MA),
Matthias Villiger (MV)
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Manuel Bauer (MB)
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Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Arriving by plane
Zurich International Airport lies 13 kilometres north of the
city centre in the municipality of Kloten and handles around
700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide.
You can find ATMs and information desks at Arrival 1 and
Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. Find free copies of
Zurich In Your Pocket at the information desk at Arrival 1.
There is a big public shopping area with most shops open
from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00).
To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and
from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or
slower S-trains leaving from the underground train station
near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads
Zürich HB (HB = main station), it’s the right train. Up to ten
trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly ten
minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the
ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen)
next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for
an adult is 6.40Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city
(3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport,
make it a 24 hour ticket for just twice the price.
Zurich’s main train station. MA
A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Taxi stands
are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Only licensed taxis are
allowed to pick up passengers. They are generally safe
and reliable.
Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich
main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same
tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel
is in Zurich Nord.
Arriving by train
Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short
for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the
city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive
here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the
main hall, where you will find ticket offices and the tourist
information. Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside
the station.
At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets
(also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public
transport in Zurich and also change money. For time tables
and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 300
(1.19Sfr/min).
zurich.inyourpocket.com
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Arriving by bus
Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus
station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk
north from the main train station. The connections are run
by private companies, most connections are to Eastern
and Southern Europe. The bus station itself offers very
few facilities but you can buy some tickets here. Zurich
sightseeing buses start here as well.
Arriving by car
The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all
directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich
City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is
scarce and very expensive. Car parks and hotels charge
up to 40Sfr for 24 hours and you can hardly find other
parking spaces where you can leave your car for more
than 90 minutes. For overnight parking you can try to
find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas
- parking there is free from 20:00 - 08:00, indicate your
arrival time on your parking disk.
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy, as roads are
in good condition, sign posting is excellent and drivers
usually not too aggressive. If you’re using the motorways
you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol
stations and post offices). Remember that trams always
have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebracrossings
without traffic lights.
The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should
allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.
The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas,
80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways.
October - November 2012
5

6 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often 30km/h.
We strongly advise you to observe the limits carefully as
there are dozens of fixed and temporary radar controls in
the city. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements
with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine
even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your
home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if
the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than
French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it
be accompanied by an international one.
Public transport
Trains
The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You
can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train
network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in
Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Zurich there are
connections to all the major Swiss cities once or twice an
hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time
tables refer to w w w . s b b .c h . Tickets are sold on vending
machines (switch them to English on the first screen) and
at the counters in the main hall at Zurich main train station
- clerks usually speak English. You can purchase single and
return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16
years they pay the so-called half-fare. If you plan on travelling
around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month
for 110Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport.
You cannot buy tickets on the train anymore. If you board a
train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr.
The so-called Polybahn, connecting the ETH with the city
since 1889. AM
Buses and ships
Public buses get you from the nearest train station to most
every village in the country. The time tables are integrated
in the database on www .sbb .ch. There are ships on all the
larger Swiss lakes. For information about ships on Lake
Zurich, see page 41.
City transport
Although most distances in Zurich are quite short, public
transport can be very useful, especially when the weather
is not so friendly. The network includes trams, buses,
local trains, ships on the lake and on the river. The
ticket system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network
is divided into zones. So you do not buy tickets for a trip,
but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is
one zone, zone number 10 (see map page 63). Tickets are
valid in the chosen zones for a certain time period on all
kinds of transport. For getting around the city (zone 10) a
day pass valid for 24 hours will cost you 8.20Sfr, a single
ticket valid for 1 hour 4.10Sfr. Children up to 5 travel for free,
6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually
is 2.90Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket
machines you find at almost every stop (most of them now
take credit cards, switch them to English on the first screen).
Be aware that the popular lookout Uetliberg and the airport
are not within zone 10. If you get caught without a valid
ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport,
get advice at VBZ Ticketerias, situated at larger tram
stops throughout the city.
Another option is the Zurich card (20Sfr/24hrs, 40Sfr/72hrs),
which is valid for zone 10 and between the airport and the
city, as well as giving you free entry to many museums. The
Zurich card is available at most ticket machines.
Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun
to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and
pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a
5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message
from your mobile with the word ‘NZ’ to 988 to purchase the
supplement by phone.
Taxis
There are 1350 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general they
are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually easy
to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following
maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per
kilometre, 69Sfr per hour. For years, these were the fixed
prices all taxis had to charge. But recently the Swiss Federal
Court ruled these limits are illegal, so taxis are now allowed
to charge lower prices. But to be honest, we haven’t found
any who do so yet. Not all taxi drivers speak English. Taxi
drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is
rare. Luggage does not cost extra. You’ll find taxis at official
taxi stands at the main railway station, at Central, Bellevue
and other places. You can hail them from the streets as well.
If in doubt stick with the following big companies:
Alpha Taxi, tel. +41 44 777 77 77.
Taxi 444, tel. +41 44 444 44 44.
Bicycles
Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the flat areas
around Lake Zurich and the Limmat, the city’s river, a bike is ideal.
Züri rollt - bikes for free E-1, Hauptbahnhof/Velostation
Nord & Süd, tel. +41 43 288 34 45, www .zuerirollt .ch.
Bikes and skateboards to borrow for free - all you need is
identification and 20Sfr as a deposit. The Velostation Süd is
close to the post office Sihlpost at the southern end of the
long underground passage, near tracks 52 - 54. The northern
one is close to track 18.QOpen 08:00 - 21:30.
Car rental
All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an
ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also
require a minimum age and minimum driving experience.
Avis C-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44 296
87 87, www .avis .ch. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 -
12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Unirent M-6, Nordstrasse 110, 8Limmatplatz, tel.
+41 44 363 61 11, www.unirent.ch. Local business,
cheap prices.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com

8 BASICS
Basic data
Area
Switzerland: 41,285km 2
Zurich (canton): 1,729km 2
Zurich (city): 92km 2
Population
Switzerland: 7.8million
Zurich (city): 390,000
Official languages
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Zurich: German
Local time
Central European (GMT+1h)
Rivers
Limmat 36km (flows through Zurich)
Rhine 375km (in Switzerland)
Borders
France (572km), Germany (373km), Austria (165km),
Principality of Liechtenstein (41km), Italy (741km)
Customs
Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union.
On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real
tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to
Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on
the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland
to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and
tax allowances apply:
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)
cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.
Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits
with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air
travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.
Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a
EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.
As of last summer, duty free shopping is allowed in
Switzerland for arriving passengers as well.
A proud guild house on Münsterplatz. Zurich Tourism (CM)
Drinking
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and
18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are
the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre
Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers
(in Zurich you’ll usually find Feldschlösschen and Hürlimann)
are increasingly getting competition from innovative local
brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance.
Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the
best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good
Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the
Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies,
cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.
Electricity
Electricity in Switzerland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are
round and take three round pins - they can take europlugs
with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland
you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other
countries. In some modern hotels you find multi-use sockets.
Health & Emergency
Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
basic English):
Ambulance: 144
Police: 117
Firebrigade: 118
If you need medical attention, there are two medical centres
for emergency consultations, one is Permanence at the main
railway station just next to the taxi stand towards Bahnhofstrasse,
where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41 44 215 44
44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 – 22:00), the other mediX, just
across the road from the tram stop Stauffacher (+41 44 298 50
50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 – 21:00, Sun 08:00 – 18:00).
Zurich has three public hospitals with emergency units which are
open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. You can just walk in,
service is good, but expect to wait:
Emergency Unit Universitätsspital
G-2, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital,
tel. +41 44 255 11 11. Q Open 24/7
Well, there is of course one app we
recommend very warmly to you: the
Zurich In Your Pocket app features
all the content of this guide - and much
more - and all for offline use. Google
maps is fully integrated to make sure
you find the venues you want to go to. An offline map
and public transport map are available as well. It has
never been easier to navigate through Zurich. Frequently
updated for free. (App store only)
The free app ZVV-timetable provides real time doorto-door
timetable information for all public transport
within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich (the bus
is two minutes late? the app will tell you). It also tells
you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to
B. Definitely a useful app, and it’s available in English.
If you install the free app of the Swiss Federal Railways
SBB Mobile, you will be able to buy tickets as well. (App
store and android market)
ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, offering a
very exact map of Zurich with an integrated route planner
for pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in German, but
quite self-explanatory. It indicates points of interest as
well. On the downside, not all the maps are stored on
your phone. But the parts of the maps which have been
used are saved for one week, so you can download the
parts you need when connected to a Wi-Fi and then use
them offline to save roaming coasts. (App store only).
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Language smarts
Here are a few German phrases and some typical Swiss
German words. The ‘r’ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is
pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.
German
Where are the toilets? Wo ist die Toilette? (Vo ist di toi-lette?)
I’ll have a beer. Ich möchte ein Bier. (Ih mu-hte ein beer.)
I’m from England. Ich bin aus England. (Ih bin ows england)
Swiss German
Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi)
Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French)
Thank you Merci (mersi)
Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong)
Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi)
Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits)
Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol)
Inhabitant of Zurich Zürcher (tsoor-her)
Zurich Züri (tsoori)
Emergency Unit Stadtspital Triemli
Birmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli,
tel. +41 44 466 11 11. Q Open 24/7
Emergency Unit Stadtspital Waid
K-4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz,
tel. +41 44 366 20 55. Q Open 24/7
Pharmacies
Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24
hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the
next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35
55 (1.50Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharmacy
on duty. The pharmacy at the main station (Bahnhofplatz 15,
tel. +41 44 225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the
one at Bellevue (Theaterstrasse 14, tel. +41 44 266 62 22)
always 24/7.
Internet/Wi-fi
In the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are
not as necessary as they were 10 years ago. What you really
need are hotspots. Here comes the good news: many cafés in
Zurich have free Wi-fi. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi
providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city.
A new possibility to stay connected with your smartphone, tablet or
laptop during your stay in Switzerland and save on roaming costs
is Pocket Connect by Swisscom. It’s a mobile hotspot, a small
device to which you can connect up to 5 devices via Wi-fi. You can
rent it for 5 days for 36Sfr (plus a deposit), 2 GB of data included.
An additional day is 5 Sfr. Get it at the tourist information or the
sbb travel center, both at the main station. More information on
www.pocketconnect.ch.
cafe.ch (internet café) E-3, Uraniastrasse 3,
8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 210 33 11. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 0.3Sfr
a minute, minimum ten minutes.
Language
Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by
64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).
Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where
people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or
Schwyzerdütsch, which differs from region to region. Be it
among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities,
zurich.inyourpocket.com
BASICS
people speak dialect. For anyone who speaks or - even worse
- is learning to speak German, this can be tiring because at
first it’s very hard to understand. However, Swiss people use
standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and
speaking at school. When Swiss realise you are a foreigner
they will usually switch to standard German. Keep in mind
that a lot of Swiss aren’t practised in standard German.
A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the
younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no
problem. The first foreign language at school is still French,
so if you happen to speak some you can try using it.
Mail & Phone
Post
Swiss post is generally reliable, and usually it’s not a problem
to find a clerk who speaks some English. Swiss post also can
take care of all your financial transactions. There are post
offices all over the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train
station is the one with the longest opening hours (see below).
Public phones & Dialling
There are still lots of public phones in Zurich. They all take
coins, most of them both francs and euros. The newer ones
will accept your credit card as well. Switzerland’s calling code
is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code
before all telephone numbers. Of coure you only have to use this
if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland,
just ignore the +41 prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
Sihlpost D-2, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41
848 888 888. Zurich’s central post office, open until late.
Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30,
Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
Useful Zurich apps Get Zurich
In Your Pocket
for your iPhone!
» fi nd the venues
nearest to you
» browse through the
entire content offl ine
» fully integrated
google maps
» offl ine city and
transport maps
» regular free updates
October - November 2012
9

10 BASICS
National holidays
January 1 New Year
January 2 Berchtold Day (local)
March 29, 2013 Good Friday
April 1, 2013 Easter Monday
April 15, 2013 Sechseläuten (Zurich only)
May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only)
May 9, 2013 Ascension
May 20, 2013 Whit Monday
August 1 National holiday
September 15, 2013 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)
December 25 Christmas
Money
The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss
franc (Sfr), which is divided into 100 rappen. There are
banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1,000 francs. The
coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and
50 rappen.
Lots of shops and restaurants will be happy to take euros
as well, but the exchange rate you usually get is bad. You
will be better off changing your euros or any other currency
at a bank or at the main train station.
In Zurich the nearest ATM is never far away. Credit cards
are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. If you
are only drinking, it’s usually appreciated if you pay in cash.
Service is always included. However, if you were happy with
the service leave 5 - 10% of the bill as a tip.
Politics
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct
democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a
stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament
are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and
the seven-member government appointed by parliament
always includes representatives of all of the four or five
major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting
of 26 cantons, which retain some independence and have
their own constitutions, parliaments and governments.
Bern is the capital. Due to the understanding of political
independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a
member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate
with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa
and border agreement.
Climate
rainfall (mm)
200
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
source: Meteo Swiss, www.meteoswiss.ch
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
-2
temperature (° C)
Market values
Loaf of bread 2 - 5Sfr (€1.65 - 4.15)
Cup of coffee 4 - 6Sfr (€3.30 - 5)
0.3 litre of beer (bar) 4 - 7Sfr (€3.30 - 5.80)
Public transport ticket, valid 1hr 4.10Sfr (€3.40)
Packet of cigarettes 7Sfr (€5.80)
McDonald’s Big Mac 6.50Sfr (€5.40)
The Swiss national bank aims for an exchange rate of
at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr).
Safety
Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area,
even for women at night. As a visitor you are unlikely to face
any problems if you simply use your common sense. Of
course some petty crime does exist. Be on guard against
pickpockets just as in any European city: in a bar keep your
eye on your wallet and your bags.
Towers old and new: St. Peter, Hardau (left), Prime Tower
(right). MV
Smoking
The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings
and transport as well as in restaurants and bars became illegal
on May 1, 2010. However, in the canton of Zurich, restaurants
and bars are allowed to have a separate and served smoking
room (fumoir). But only a few venues have installed one. We
mark these in our listings with X. So in general, if you are
a smoker, do as the others do and step outside for a puff.
Tourist information
Zurich Tourism’s Tourist service (+41 44 215 40 00) is
located in the main hall of the main train station. They will
answer all your questions and provide all kinds of leaflets. You
can also book hotels and tours here. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun
08:30 - 18:30, Nov - April 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Visas
For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result
Schengen visas are valid for Switzerland as well. If you have
a visa for Switzerland you can travel freely between the
Schengen-agreement countries. Always check these details
with a Swiss embassy or consulate.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
The City of Zurich officially has 12 urban districts, called
Stadtkreise. They are simply numbered from 1 to 12.
However these urban districts are mostly for administrative
purposes - we introduce the areas visitors to Zurich should
know by the names they are usually known by. The numbers
in brackets show roughly which official districts they include.
Niederdorf (1)
Niederdorf (the lower village) is the part of the old town on
the eastern bank of the river Limmat between the squares
Central and Bellevue. It’s teeming with restaurants, bars and,
spiteful tongues say, undiscerning visitors from neighbouring
canton Argovia (Argovians have to take a bit of flak in Zurich).
There is also a sprinkling of adult entertainment, especially
in and around Härringstrasse sex workers of both sexes look
for suitors. Most of Niederdorf is a pedestrian area. It’s
criss-crossed with mediaeval alleys and small squares and
a walk through Niederdorf should be part of every visit to
Zurich. Especially if you leave very busy Niederdorfstrasse up
hill towards Oberdorf you will discover some lovely spots you
wouldn’t have expected. Along the river on the Limmatquai
cafés with outdoor seating are a good excuse to have a drink
and watch Zurich go by.
City/Lindenhof (1)
On the western bank of the river Limmat lies the Lindenhof
quarter, the other part of the old town. Right in its centre,
on a small hill, Lindenhofplatz gives you excellent views
over Niederdorf. Zurich’s citizens held their meetings here in
mediaeval times. The alleys and streets near here abound
with shops of all kinds and some restaurants and bars.
Towards the west, Bahnhofstrasse - one of the world’s
most famous shopping streets - marks the border of the
Lindenhof district, and on the other side, the so-called City
includes Paradeplatz and the financial and business district,
spreading out towards the lake. The City is delimited by the
Schanzengraben, an artificial moat from the lake to the river
Sihl, built in the 17th and 18th century to protect the citizens
from all kind of attacks. These days things are more relaxed
and you can stroll along the Schanzengraben, mostly on
wooden footbridges or stone ledges just by the waterside.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
ZURICH’S DISTRICTS
Seefeld (8)
Seefeld is the name of the district on the eastern shore of the
lake. Over the past decade it has become an incredibly popular
area to live in - which results in very high rents. There are some
worries that this is driving away the area’s original inhabitants
and spoiling its charm. With all the new residents in the area,
scores of trendy bars and restaurants have opened in Seefeld.
But of course the major attraction here is the lake: on the
lake side there is a promenade with boat rentals, two swimming
spots and the ever (over-)crowded Blatterwiese, where you can
sunbathe on the grass, barbecue on two electric grills or dine
in one of the outdoor restaurants. Don’t leave Zurich without
having taken in the lake side.
Enge & Wollishofen (2)
The western shore of Lake Zurich is a bit less popular, but
that’s exactly why it’s worth a visit. When the Seefeld side
is overcrowded on a sunny summer weekend, you might
find it more relaxing on this side. For example swimming at
Mythenquai, or on Landiwiese, right on the shore. Enge district
houses the two gardens Belvoirpark and Rieterpark as well.
Langstrasse (4&5)
Langstrasse (long street) is a street connecting districts 4 and
5 through a tunnel underneath the ocean of railway tracks which
divide the western part of the city. Some people still think the
street and its surroundings are an ugly, unpleasant area - but
they’re usually the ones who haven’t been there for years. It was
once the best-known red light district in Switzerland. But in the
last decade much has changed: more and more striptease and
night clubs have changed into urban bars now very popular with
Zurich’s young crowd. You will still find strip clubs, some street
prostitution and drug trafficking as well as a few alcoholics - but
some of the most interesting bars, restaurants and clubs in the
city as well (see the nightlife chapter). As a result it’s Zurich’s
most cosmopolitan and multi-cultural district, perfect for barhopping
and with options for partying almost around the clock.
Zürich West (5)
Probably Zurich’s fastest developing district, this formerly
industrial part of the city is rapidly changing into a new
business and residential area. Office space and residential
developments have sprouted everywhere, making construction
sites a long-term feature. The area around Escher-Wyss-Platz
has also become one of the city’s entertainment districts
with bars, restaurants and clubs popping up like mushrooms
over the last 15 years. The first clubs set up in abandoned
industrial buildings, but now many have moved into newly built
or renovated locations. On the waste land on Geroldstrasse
(aka street of clubs), the clubs still have a raw, provisional
feel, while the restaurants and bars around the large Abaton
multiplex cinema have a more mainstream character. Thanks
to its proximity to the train station Hardbrücke with night
connections to the suburbs of Zurich, the area is flooded with
suburban youngsters on the weekends.
Zürich Nord - Oerlikon (11)
The urban district 11 in the north of Zurich, behind the two
hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is often referred to as Zurich
Nord. The villages Oerlikon, Affoltern, Seebach merged with
Zurich in 1934. Close to the airport, Oerlikon is home to
numerous companies today, and to Zurich’s biggest event
hall Hallenstadion and the trade fair grounds. Lots of housing,
offices, parks and hotels have been built here in the past
five years.
October - November 2012
11

12 HISTORY
Romans and Schwyzerdüütsch
100BC - X Century
Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at
the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of
the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from
which Zurich developed. Roman rule ended around 400
AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for
the next few centuries. One important change that falls into
this obscure period is the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the
Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to
become today’s Swiss German dialect (Schwyzerdüütsch).
Zurich in women’s hands
XII - XIV Century
In the 13th Century Zurich became
an imperial city, answering only to the
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
Formally Zurich was now headed by a
woman - the abbess of the Fraumünster
abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s
craftsmen made the newly founded
guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political
structure, weakening the power of the church and the
landed gentry. Many of the guild houses, still in use today,
are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden
or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the
shoemakers on the left).
Zurich goes Swiss… and Protestant
XIV - XVI Century
The guild revolution left Zurich a little isolated, so in 1351 Zurich
joined ‘Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291.
This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow
cantons, such as against Schwyz which got in the way of Zurich’s
plans for territorial expansion. Soon the city ruled over lands
all around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine.
XVI Century
Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major
critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say on
moral matters and became the initiator of the Reformation
in Zurich from 1520 on. Apart from banning mercenary
service the Reformation meant an end to all frivolous
behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was
forbidden or strictly regulated.
Napoleon causes a little bother
XVI - XVIII Century
During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and
influence increased. While political power was increasingly
monopolised by a few families, new ideas and debate
flourished. Among the intellectuals of the time were the
educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter
Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the
Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon
took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the
Helvetic Republic, a centralised puppet state which only
survived for five years.
Railways and radical workers
XIX - XX Century
Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a
federation with much closer ties between the cantons than
before. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Löwenbräuareal - an exciting
brew of contemporary art
Dust, noise, a few well-built construction workers – the
scenery at the Löwenbräu site these days is not what
you might expect when you enter an art centre. But don’t
be scared off, the redevelopment of this 19th century
industrial site is actually near completion and many
galleries have already opened shop. So step inside!
Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher
A detail of the new Löwenbräu architecture. MV
was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next
few decades like no other. Escher’s statue can be found, not
surprisingly, just in front of the main train station. Switzerland
remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge
to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The
war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in
1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many
of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not
the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not
introduced until 1971!
The Réduit and the war
XX Century
During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally
neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making
it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan
prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the
Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the
so-called réduit strategy. From a traditional point of view
this is what saved Switzerland from becoming part of Nazi
Germany, but more recently historians have suggested that
other factors may have been more important, sparking off
intense and emotional public debate in the 1990s.
Zurich today XX - XXI Century
After the war Switzerland’s economy
boomed and mass immigration from
Southern Europe set in, while culturally
and politically Switzerland remained very
conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth
movements clashed with police, but
also brought new cultural life to Zurich.
Today Zurich is still a major financial
centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has
become popular as a place to live for highly-skilled workers
from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable
apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.
This is probably the best place to go in Zurich if you’re
looking for a large and varied offering of contemporary art
The amount of art on display here is very impressive – it’s
a bit like a modern-art mall. The Kunsthalle, run by the city,
occupies several large rooms, the Migros museum funded
by the eponymous Swiss retailer has its premises here as
well as the private galleries Hauser & Wirth, Bob van Orsouw,
Luma Westbau / Pool etc. and Galerie Freymond-Guth. And
while you need a ticket for the Migros museum and the
Kunsthalle, entry to the galleries is absolutely free.
Originally the Löwenbrau site had nothing to do with art.
Its story is a miniature version of the history of the district
(or kreis) 5 where its located – first came industry, then
failures and closures, then artists and experiments, and now
big money is pouring into new developments. The red-brick
complex was built in 1897 to house a large brewery which soon
took on the name Löwenbräu, i.e. lion’s brew. Malt and hops
were processed here for nearly a hundred years until 1986,
when the new owner, Swiss beer producer Hürlimann, closed
the plant and the lion roared his last. Thanks to the fact that
the building is listed and could not be torn down, art galleries
and art museums opened up in the Löwenbrau grounds.
The latest chapter is the current redevelopment.
Two big names from Zurich’s architecture scene were
commissioned, Anette Gigon and Mike Guyer who have
just finished Zurich’s new landmark – the nearby Prime
Tower. They added an extra storey with a white finish to
the building nearest to Escher-Wyss Platz, while placing a
simple, nine-storey rectangular block with a red façade as
a counterweight at the other end of the site. In between
the two, the construction workers have pulled up the most
eye-catching part of the complex, a black, asymmetric
block twice as tall as the rest. This tower rises up from
the yard behind the row of smaller original buildings, and
then extends out over them, with a dozen floors in this
overhanging section. It includes apartments with hefty
price tags, some apparently going for over three million Sfr.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
A CLOSER LOOK
There is also the odd million hanging around in the
exhibition rooms inside, but you can enjoy them with less
money in your pocket. Hauser & Wirth are currently showing
two artists solo, the eminent US artist Paul McCarthy in the
lower rooms and the British Thomas Houseago in the room on
the first floor, both until 20 October. The McCarthy exhibition
named PROPO shows a series of large format photographs
of larger-than-life, soiled objects the artist used in his
performances in the 1960s. Whether soft toys or bottles
of face cream, each item is carefully displayed in front of a
coloured background, formulating a subtle commentary on
consumer culture and the quest for beauty. One floor further
down, in the dungeons so to speak, you can see videos of two
of McCarthy’s performances (e.g. Sailor’s Meat, 1975). These
are nothing for the faint hearted. Using creams, sauces,
pieces of meat and his body, the artist explores sexual, bodily
and conceptual borders. The Houseago exhibition shows
reliefs and masks, as well a new work, a human figure five
metres long lying on the floor, made of flat plaster boards
and iron reinforcement bars, almost ready to jump.
The other exhibitions are well worth a visit too. The
Kunsthalle is showing a series of large-scale prints by
Wolfgang Tillmans with scenes from across the world. Airport
passport queues, sprawling industrial areas, surgeons in
the course of an operation, myriad surfaces of the modern
world. Helen Marten’s work is a combination of understated
sculpture and text elements (both until 4.11). The Bob van
Orsouw gallery is showing a number of drawings and objects
by Hannah Greely, like a shadow figure caught in a steel rain
shower under a cloud (until 13.10). And finally the Freymond-
Guth gallery is showing a film by Dani Gal, Nacht und Nebel,
which examines an episode involving the executed Nazi Adolf
Eichmann (until 6.10).
Paul McCarthy at Hauser & Wirth.
Stefan Altenburger Photography Zürich
So if you have an appetite for contemporary art or
cutting-edge architecture, stop off at the Löwenbräuareal.
With a bit of luck the construction site will be gone. And if
you fancy a beer afterwards, the Markthalle (see p. 31) next
door is a good bet.
Chris Young
Löwenbräukunst
Limmatstrasse 270, 8Dammweg,
www.loewenbraeukunst.ch
Galleries usually open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00,
Sun & Mon closed. Kunsthalle additionally open on Thu
until 20:00 (free admission 17:00 - 20:00). Galleries: free
admission, Kunsthalle: 12/8Sfr.
The opening of the Migros museum and the art bookshop
Kunstgriff has been postponed to an unknown date.
October - November 2012
13
© Paul McCarthy Courtesy der Künstler und
Hauser & Wirth.

14 CULTURE & EVENTS
Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and
ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme
of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere.
Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring
the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but
unfortunately only few productions in English.
We list the most important venues in the venue list and
refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event
takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full
address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories
classical music, exhibitions, festivals, musicals & shows
and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered
by the dates.
Of course there are way more events than we can list. We
recommend to check out www.zueritipp.ch for more events.
Classical music
02.10 Tuesday
Zurich Chamber Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington. Works by Joseph
Haydn, Benjamin Britten & W. A. Mozart. Q Concert starts
19:30, 16 - 125Sfr.
Zurich venue list
Abart B-6, Manessestrasse 170, 8Sihlcity Nord,
www.abart.ch. Small club, mostly rock and independent
concerts. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325
Hallenstadion O-2, Wallisellenstrasse 45,
8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion.ch.
Zurich’s biggest concert and event hall. Tickets: www.
ticketcorner.ch and tel. +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).
Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse,
www.kaufleuten.com. The Kaufleuten Festsaal hosts
mostly blues, soul, rock and jazz concerts. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min)
Komplex 457 Hohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli, tel. +41
44 500 00 60, www.komplex457.ch. The city’s third
largest concert hall, it mostly hosts rock concerts. Tickets:
www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) or
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).
Maag Halle K-7, Hardstrasse 219, 8Schiffbau.
A big concert hall in Zurich West, hosts up to 3000
spectators. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325
325 (1.19Sfr/min).
Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel.
+41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. Zurich’s first
address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Tickets:
www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).
Rote Fabrik Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen,
www.rotefabrik.ch. Centre for alternative culture:
concerts, theater, parties and more. Tickets: Migros City,
Löwenstrasse 31-35, +41 44 221 16 71.
Tonhalle E-5, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz,
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. The Tonhalle is the
place for classical music in Zurich. Tickets: www.tonhalle
-orchester.ch, +41 44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)
Volkshaus C-3, Stauffacherstrasse 60,
8Helvetiaplatz, www.volkshaus.ch. Concerts and
other events, hall hosts up to 1600 people. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 or
www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (both 1.19Sfr/min).
X-TRA D-1, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz. Hall
for mid-size concerts and parties on Limmatplatz. Tickets:
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800.
03.10 Wednesday - 05.10 Friday
Tonhalle Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: David Zinman, piano: Yefim Bronfman.
Works by Carl Maria von Weber, Béla Bartók & Robert
Schumann. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
07.10 Sunday
Zurich Opera Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: Fabio Luisi, violin: Thomas Zehetmair.
Works by Frank Martin & Robert Schumann. Q Concert starts
11:15, 25 - 95Sfr.
10.10 Wednesday & 11.10 Thursday
Tonhalle Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: Jaap van Zweden, violin: Andreas
Janke, violoncello: Benjamin Nyffenegger, oboe: Isaac Duarte,
bassoon: Matthias Rácz. Works by Joseph Haydn & Dmitri
Shostakovitch. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.
The Trondheim soloists with their string instruments. PD
17.10 Wednesday
The Trondheim Soloists & Anne-Sophie Mutter
Tonhalle. Conductor & violin: Anne-Sophie Mutter. Works by
Benjamin Britten, André Previn & Antonio Vivaldi. Q Concert
starts 19:30, 35 - 185Sfr.
23.10 Tuesday
Zurich Chamber Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor & recorder: Maurice Steger. Works by
Leonardo Vinci, Leonardo Leo, Nicolò Fiorenza, Alessandro
Scarlatti, Domenico Scarlatti & Domenico Sarri. Q Concert
starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr.
27.10 Saturday
Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra Moscow
Tonhalle. Conductor: Vladimir Fedoseyev, piano: Teo
Gheorghiu. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven & Pjotr I.
Tchaikovsky. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.
14.11 Wednesday - 16.11 Friday
Tonhalle Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: George Benjamin, piano: Roger Muraro.
Works by György Ligeti, Olivier Messiaen & George Benjamin.
Q Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.
20.11 Tuesday
Orchestre de Paris
Tonhalle. Conductor: Paavo Järvi, piano: Andreas Haefliger.
Works by Claude Debussy, W. A. Mozart & Igor Stravinsky. Q
Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 140Sfr.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
28.11 Wednesday & 29.11 Thursday
Tonhalle Orchestra
Tonhalle. Conductor: Lionel Bringuier, piano: Hélène Grimaud.
Works by Hector Berlioz, Maurice Ravel & Albert Roussel. Q
Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.
Exhibitions & Fairs
06.07 - 28.10
Postmodernism -
- Style and Subversion 1970 - 1990
Landesmuseum, Museumsstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof,
tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.postmodernism
.landesmuseum.ch. With this exhibition the Victoria and
Albert Museum London (V&A) is coming to Zurich. This is the
first in-depth, comprehensive presentation of the period of
postmodernism, with international objects from the fields
of architecture, art, fashion, graphics, music and design.
The exhibition shows the development of the postmodern
movement. Postmodernism was a reaction to the orthodoxies
of modernism and its purism, which came to be seen as
increasingly totalitarian. A new multiplicity of forms, colours,
materials, styles and stylization emerged. More than 150
works by artists including Aldo Rossi, Ai Wei Wei, Vivienne
Westwood, Andy Warhol and Ridley Scott are here to be
discovered. The National Museum Zurich has supplemented
the exhibition with important Swiss representatives of
postmodernism like Fischli/Weiss, Mario Botta, Yello and
Pipilotti Rist. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr, children free.
Giovanni Giacometti and his wife Annetta by his own hand.
PD
17.07 - 17.02
Giacometti - The Donations
G-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41
44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. An important
series of works from the famous Swiss artist family, the
Giacomettis, is on display at the Kunsthaus. Among the
works presented, there are some the Kunsthaus obtained
only recently upon the death of art patron Bruno Giacometti.
Works from Alberto Giacometti’s mature period are installed
on a temporary basis, until the extension to the museum
is finished. Earlier series of works are on display as well.
Additionally, a documentary exhibition has been put together
by the Kunsthaus restorers, showing a selection of Alberto
Giacometti’s plaster pieces which were also donated by his
brother Bruno. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 -
20:00, Mon closed.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
20.07 - 11.11
Streetparade Of the Gods
C-7, Museum Rietberg,Gablerstrasse 15, tel. +41
44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. ‘Streetparade of the
gods’ illuminates a region in central India about the size of
Switzerland, which is to this day inhabited mainly by tribal
societies, or adivasi (‘native inhabitants’). The exhibition
stages an impressive parade of some 300 fascinating
metal figurines made for ritual purposes by metal casters
during the first half of the 20th century. Q Open 10:00 -
17:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission
16/12Sfr.
Cinemas
Zurich has 16 cinemas, lots of them with more than one
and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally
films in Switzerland are shown in their original language
with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex
cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in
the last two decades have started to show more and more
movies dubbed in German. In the best case they show
two versions of the same movie: one in original language
and one dubbed. In smaller cinemas you can still watch
all movies in the original language - lots of them in English
of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the
programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French
subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in
German. Check the daily newspapers or www.zueritipp.ch
for programme and screening times. The cinemas we list
below usually show films in original versions.
Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr.
On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.
Arthouse Movie F-4, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel.
+41 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch. There are five
Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, all situated in and around
the Niederdorf part of the old town, most of them in old
buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we
list is the only one with more than one screen, showing
studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters,
just as the other Arthouse cinemas.
Capitol F-2, Weinbergstrasse 9, 8Central, tel.
+41 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch. The Capitol offers
six screens with 850 seats all in all. It‘s situated next
to Central, showing American blockbusters as well as
European films - usually in original version. To call it’s
1.50Sfr per call & min.
RiffRaff C-1, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41
44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch. The RiffRaff is a lovely
cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse
movies in original language, which is not necessarily
English, are usually on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the
cashier‘s. There are two bars perfect for a drink before
or after the movie.
Xenix C-3, Kanzleistrasse 52, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.
+41 44 242 04 11, www.xenix.ch. The Xenix is a
cinema for film lovers located in a shed in Zurich’s district
four. It’s operated by a film club and shows independent
video and movie productions as well as retrospectives
and classic movies that are hard to find on big screens
these days. Movies start several times a day, check out
the programme on their website. There is also a bar with
very popular outdoor seating.
October - November 2012
15

16 CULTURE & EVENTS
Opera & Ballet
Opernhaus - Zurich Opera F-5, Falkenstrasse 1,
8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66,
www.opernhaus.ch. The Zurich Opera is a magnificent
building near the lake shore built in 1891 by the Austrian
architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. You can
buy tickets on their webpage, by phone or at the ticket
office on site (open from 11:00 until the performance
starts, Sun from 90 minutes before the show). Plays are
usually with German and English surtitles:
The plays in autumn:
Jenufa
by Leoš Janáček, directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov
Fri 04.10, Sun 07.10, Tue 16.10, Sat 20.10, Wed
24.10, Sun 28.10, Wed 31.10
Roberto Devereux
by Gaetano Donizetti, directed by Giancarlo del Monaco
Tue 09.10, Sun 14.10, Fri 19.10
Salome
by Richard Strauss, directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf
Fri 05.10
Tosca
by Giacomo Puccini, directed by Robert Carsen
Sat 06.10, Wed 10.10
Lucia di Lammermoor
by Gaetano Donizetti, directed by Damiano Michieletto
Sun 21.10, Sat 27.10, Tue 30.10, Sat 03.11, Sun
11.11, Fri 16.11
Sale
a Händel-Project by Christoph Marthaler, music by Georg
Friedrich Händel et al.
Sun 04.11, Wed 07.11, Fri 09.11, Sun 11.11, Wed
14.11, Sun 18.11, Tue 20.11, Thu 22.11, Sun 25.11,
Tue 27.11
Le nozze di Figaro
by W.A. Mozart, directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf
Tue 06.11, Sat 10.11, Sun 18.11, Fri 23.11, Sat
01.12, Tue 04.12
Un ballo in maschera
by Giuseppe Verdi, directed by David Pountney
Sat 24.11, Fri 30.11, Wed 05.12
Ballet F-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1,
8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66,
www.opernhaus.ch. As of this season, Christian Spuck
is the new director of the Zurich Ballet Company. Taking
over from the renowned Heinz Spoerli, he will have to
prove himself. 38 world-class dancers belong to the
company - another 15 dance in the junior company. The
shows take place at Zurich’s opera.
Romeo and Julia
by William Shakespeare, music by Sergei Prokofiev,
choreography by Christian Spuck
Sat 13.10, Sun 14.10, Thu 18.10, Sun 21.10, Fri
26.10, Sun 28.10, Fri 02.11, Sun 02.12
Junior Ballet
music by Frank Henne, Offenbach, Bizet, Puccini,
Zimmermann; choreography by Douglas Lee, Christian
Spuck and Stephan Thoss
Wed 21.11, Thu 22.11, Fri 23.11, Sat 24.11, Sun
25.11
14.09 - 17.02
Capital - Merchants in Venice and Amsterdam
E-2, Landesmusem, Museumsstrasse 2,
8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.kapital
.landesmuseum.ch. This exhibition tells the story of the
origins of our contemporary economic system, capitalism,
in the historic maritime republic of Venice and during the
‘Golden Age’ of Amsterdam. Both cities played a key role
in the economic and social development of the West.
Merchants and traders invented new forms of finance, credit
and commerce which we still use today. Both cities looked
out towards the sea, took risks, built ships, pursued trade
overseas, suffered losses, but also made large profits. With
growing affluence and the birth of a pre-modern civil society,
for example in Amsterdam, culture and splendour became
more attractive than risky overseas trade. This marked the
start of investment in culture and luxury - and also the end of
the ‘Golden Age’ of both cities. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00, Mon closed. Admission 10/8Sfr, children free.
So these are the ships that brought us capitalism. PD
27.09 - 18.11
Jochem Hendricks
D-3, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Selnau,
tel. +41 44 217 70 80, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Jochem
Hendricks’s works are spectacular, surprising and astute: he
deals with different ways of life, personality structures and
social mechanisms. He often takes our familiar desires and
fears as a basis, which he then comments on critically, often
with humor and not uncommonly with irony. In his works, he
consciously relies on the fantasies, memories and ideas of
the observers. This exhibition presents an overview, with
works from 1984 to the present day. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00,
Wed 12:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Mon closed.
Admission 14/10/5Sfr.
28.09 - 20.01
Paul Gauguin - The Prints
G-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41
44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Paul Gauguin (1848
- 1903) is universally celebrated as one of the founding
fathers of modern painting. What is far less known, however,
is that he left a relatively small but diverse and innovative
repertoire of graphic works, most of them woodcuts. Gauguin
found in woodcuts the ideal expressive medium for his
non-illusionistic style, with its emphasis on the plane. Yet
while his paintings chiefly depict the serene and care-free
side of life in the South Seas, the woodcuts also reveal the
unfathomable, nocturnal and demonic aspect of the tropical
paradise. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00,
Mon closed.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
01.11 Thursday - 15.11 Tuesday
Expovina - wine exhibition
E-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, www.expovina.ch. This
wine fair takes place on 12 boats moored at the pier at
Bürkliplatz. Stroll from boat to boat and taste wines from all
regions of the world. In between enjoy your dinner in one of
the on-site restaurants. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00
- 19:00. Tickets on site around 20Sfr.
08.11 Thursday - 11.11 Sunday
Kunst 10 - art fair
N-1, ABB Hall 550, Ricarda-Huch-Strasse, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, www.kunstzuerich.ch. A fair for contemporary
art in the former factory halls just next to the train station
Zurich Oerlikon: 70 Swiss and international galleries present
the latest in visual art on 8,000m 2 . Q Thu 16:00 - 22:00,
Fri - Sun 11:00 - 19:00, tickets on site 20/15Sfr.
Festivals
31.10 Wednesday - 03.11 Saturday
jazznojazz
D-2, Theaterhaus Gessneralle / ewz-Unterwerk Selnau /
Theater der Künste, 8Sihlstrasse, www.jazznojazz.ch.
Jazz, Latin grooves und horn sections - the 14th edition of
the international festival ‘jazznojazz’ offers 4 music-packed
concert nights in three locations - all within a 5-minute
walk of each other. Jazz cross-boarder commuters like John
McLaughlin and Anouar Brahem, rousing funk bands like
Incognito or Earth Wind & Fire Experience or loungy
sounds of Jazzanova and Timo Lassy create the ultimate
festival mix. Q Check www.jazznojazz.ch for details. Tickets
www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min.).
14.09.2012 – 17.02.2013
zurich.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
Musicals & Shows
07.11 Wednesday - 10.11 Saturday
Fashion Days
K-6, Schiffbau, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau,
www.mbfashiondays.ch. The Zurich Fashion Days will
be four days of innovative regional designers and top
international brands showcasing their Spring/Summer 2013
collections.QTickets: www.ticketcorner.com, 110Sfr.
The intergalactic Voca People. PD
13.11 - 02.12
Voca People
Maag Halle. Armed only with their voices, the Voca People will
sing across musical historyQ Shows daily 19:30, Sat 14:30
& 19:30, Sun 14:00, Mon no show. Tickets: www.ticketpotal.
com, +41 0900 101 102 (1.19Sfr/min), 69 - 89Sfr.
Landesmuseum Zürich.
Tue – Sun 10 am – 5 pm | Thu 10 am – 7 pm | Open on public holidays | www.kapital.landesmuseum.ch
October - November 2012
17

18 CULTURE & EVENTS
Still looking good: the grand lady of soul, Chaka Khan. PD
Rock, Pop and Jazz concerts
For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music
venues’ on p. 36.
10.10 Wednesday
Jennifer Lopez
Hallenstadion. She has sold over 55 million records so far
- and is now on tour with her best-of album Dance Again:
J-Lo, the singing and dancing all-rounder from New York. Q
Concert starts 20:00, 90 - 120Sfr.
13.10 Saturday
Tina Dico
Kaufleuten. An intelligent mix of folk, pop and a dash of
americana, that’s Danish singer/songwriter Tina Dico! Already
a superstar back home she wants now to conquer the world
with her brilliant voice. Q Concert starts 20:00, 45-70Sfr.
21.10 Sunday
Dusko Goykovich Quintet
Moods. Trumpeter Dusan ‘Dusko’ Goykovich, born 1931
in Jaice, is considered one of the great stylists of modern
mainstream jazz. On stage for his 80th birthday! Q Concert
starts 19:00, 38Sfr.
24.10 Wednesday
Maximo Park
X-tra. The indie rockers Maximo Park on stage with their new
album The National Health. Q Concert starts 19:30, 45Sfr.
Tickets
Most venues nowadays sell tickets on the internet which
you can print out yourself on any printer (see venue list
for websites). However, if it’s more convenient for you to
actually get tickets at a counter, this is a good option:
SBB Event ticket counter E-2, Hauptbahnhof,
8Hauptbahnhof. Located in the main hall of Zurich’s
main train station just next to the train ticket counters,
SBB Eventtickets sells all kinds of tickets, including all
the concerts promoted by the three best-known online
ticketservices ticketcorner, starticket and ticketportal.
Just walk in and ask. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 19:00. A
25.10 Thursday
Chaka Khan
Volkshaus. Incomparable and brimming with power, that’s
what describes the mother of all soul divas Chaka Khan best.
She’s finally back with some deep funk and r’n’b ballads. Q
Concert starts 20:00, 60 - 85Sfr.
27.10 Saturday
Anthony B
Rote Fabrik. Keith Blair alias Anthony B has released 25
reggae albums in the last 16 years. Roots and rhythm, dance
it up! Q Concert starts 21:00, 35Sfr.
27.10 Saturday
Danko Jones
Komplex 457. Simpy rock’ n’ roll! But in all varieties: Danko
Jones from Canada. Let’s rock! Q Concert starts 20:00,
45Sfr.
02.11 Friday
Nada Surf
Abart. The New York trio combines profound rock skillfully
with playful pop elements. This winter they released their
sixth album The stars are indifferent to astronomy. Great
rock on a small stage! Q Concert starts 20:30, 45Sfr.
Not on holiday anymore: J-Lo, soon in Zurich. PD
06.11 Tuesday
Lionel Richie
Hallenstadion. The four-time Grammy winner Lionel Richie is
still not resting on his laurels. The man who co-founded the
legendary band The Commodores in the 60s has rearranged
his biggest hits - we bet you will be Dancing On The Ceiling.
Q Concert starts 20:00, 80 - 175Sfr.
07.11 Wednesday
The Cranberries
Hallenstadion. This Irish rock band had their golden years
in the early 90s, and maybe some of us have heard their
number 1 hit Zombie once too often. After splitting up they
reunited a couple of years ago and now present their new
album Roses - still rock music for the big stages! Q Concert
starts 20:00, 60 - 70Sfr.
14.11 Wednesday
Seal
Hallenstadion. Seal is pure soul! On his current album Soul
2 he reinterprets soul classics. But you can take it for granted
that the British superstar will play some of his massive earlier
hits too. Q Concert starts 20:00, 65 - 110Sfr.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
19.11 Monday
Seeed
Hallenstadion. The dancehall and reggae kings from
Germany finally back on stage. With them they have their
new album, simply called Seeed! Ragga! Q Concert starts
20:00, 60 - 75Sfr.
20.11 Tuesday
Elina Duni Quartet
Moods. Albanian-born singer Elina Duni has an absolutely
fascinating voice. With her quartet she plays world music
which is faithful to the Eastern European tradition as well
as giving much room to modern jazz. Q Concert starts
20:30, 35Sfr.
27.11 Tuesday
Stone Sour & Papa Roach
Komplex 457. The two US-alternative metal bands Stone
Sour and Papa Roach on the same stage - both with a
new album and hard rockin’ as always. Q Concert starts
19:30, 58Sfr.
30.11 Friday
Lunik
Kaufleuten. Lunik has been one of the most successfull
Swiss pop bands of the last decade. After a break of two years
they now are back with different band members and an all new
album. Almost everything has changed - but fortunately the
touching voice of singer Jaël Krebs has stayed. Q Concert
starts 19:30, 50 - 75Sfr.
ANOUARBRAHEM
ESPERANZASPALDING
zurich.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
Sports
28.11 Wednesday - 01.12 Saturday
Sixday-Nights
Hallenstadion, www.sixdays-zuerich.ch. For four
nights in a row, one cycling race chases the next at the
race course in the Hallenstadion. Watch the international
cycling elite racing for points and glory. Q Starts daily
18:00, tickets 31 - 86Sfr.
Comedy
INCOGNITO
JAMESGRUNTZ
JAZZANOVA
JOHNMCLAUGHLIN
LARRYCARLTON
LIZZWRIGHT
MARCUSMILLER
MIKEMAINIERI
NICOLACONTE
NICOLEWILLIS
NILS PETTERMOLVAER
THE EARTH WIND & FIRE EXPERIENCE
THE NEW MASTERSOUNDS
TIMOLASSY
Y’AKOTO
www.jazznojazz.ch
14th ZURICH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL
Gessnerallee Zürich
ewz-Unterwerk Selnau
ZKBJazzClub im Theater der Künste
31.10.–3.11.12
www.ticketcorner.ch www.jazznojazz.ch
International Comedy Club
www.internationalcomedyclub.ch. The International
Comedy Club brings English-language stand-up
comedy to Zurich, taking place at the club Mascotte
(F-5, Theaterstrasse 10). Tickets usually 40/35Sfr at
www.ticketcorner.ch. Shows start at 20:00.
12.10 Friday
Imran Yusuf & Jason Patterson
26.10 Friday
Pete Firman & Joe Rowntree
09.11 Friday
Rob Deering & Shazia Mirza
23.11 Friday
Keith Farnan & Luke Graves
ESPERANZA
SPALDING
3.11.12
ZKB JAZZPREISKALEIDOSCOPE STRING QUARTET
www.allblues.ch
October - November 2012
19

20 QUICK PICKS
Zurich at a glance
Eat Drink Do
Local For fresh tapas and no-nonsense
Spanish charm head
to the Bodega Espanola (p.
30), an institution in Niederdorf.
Chose from the tapas
on display and take a seat on
one of the large tables - just
as locals famous and less so
have done for decades.
On the cheap For cheap, good food, head to
Lily’s at Langstrasse (p. 25):
the pan-Asian menu is full of
tasty and very reasonably
priced food and the service
is quick. Perfect to start off
your night in the Langstrasse
district.
Lads For generous portions of solid
Swiss food, particularly meat,
at very decent prices, head
for Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p.
32) in Niederdorf: kidneys,
liver, cordon bleu or schnitzel
- they have it all.
For couples If you’re looking for a nice
place for a tête-à-tête, the
Mère Catherine (p. 27) has
the right atmosphere. And a
very pleasing French-inspired
menu as well. The cheese
platter is recommended.
High end Brasserie Lipp (p. 27) could
rival many a Parisian brasserie,
serving standards like
mussels with french fries or
oysters. For an after-dinner
cocktail, take the elevator up
to the Jules Verne panorama
bar with a stunning view over
the city.
Unexpected The restaurant Clouds (p.
29) on the top of Zurich’s –
nay, Switzerland’s! – tallest
building is definitely worth a
visit, for the view as well as
for the food. And how high up
are we here? A mere 126m
– a giant for Zurich, a dwarf
if you’re familiar with other
urban centres.
Club Gonzo (p. 38) is one of
Zurich's most happening underground
hangouts. This small rock
and pop club in a cellar is worth
queuing for. A dance floor, a bar
and a constantly overcrowded
smokers’ room are ready for
some serious rock’n’roll with you.
Gentlemen, start your engines!
For really cheap drinks, go to
BQM (Leonhardstrasse 34, F-2),
a student's bar situated in the
main building of the Swiss Federal
Institute of Technology ETH (just a
5-minute walk from Central). With
beer at 3.60Sfr and cocktails at
9.40Sfr this is definitely one of the
cheapest places in town (closed
on weekends).
All the important sports events
on big screen, pub food, many
different beers on tap and a very
international crowd (and yes, not
just lads but ladies too!) - you'll
find it all at the Oliver Twist pub
(see p. 37).
The easy bar with the difficult
name – Schmuklerski (p. 35) is
a nice place for good coffee and
good conversation with a large
bar menu if the talking makes you
hungry. Of course, you can also
come in the evening and there’s
a restaurant too.
The Sein bar (p. 36) close to
Bahnhofstrasse is a stylish bar
with a well assorted wine menu
and a wonderful selection of unconventional
tapas – for instance
sturgeon carpaccio or mince veal
with romanesco broccoli.
How did that one go? In Switzerland
they make fizzy drinks from
milk. But wait, it's no joke. Rivella
is the Swiss answer to Coca Cola,
you can get it at most shops and
restaurants and actually its not
that bad. Made of milk serum,
it doesn't look like mik and is
supposed to be quite healthy too.
Browsing through titbits and treasures
at the Kanzlei fleamarket
(p. 45) is a prototypical Saturday
morning for a Zurich local – especially
if it’s followed by a large café
latte in one of the happening bars
around Helvetiaplatz.
Some of Zurich’s main sights
come for free: A must see are the
Giacometti murals in the main
police station (p. 41) - they're
overwhelming. Or if it’s foggy
outside, go and check if there is
sun on Zurich’s own little mountain
Uetliberg (p. 42): either walk up or
spend some francs on a train ticket
and hike back down to the city (45
minutes only).
Ice hockey is a big thing in
Switzerland and the season’s
just started. Feel the heat when
Zurich’s ZSC Lions play against
their rivals. Matches are at the
Hallenstadion (Wallisellenstrasse
45, O-1), just next to Oerlikon
station and start at 19:45 on 2, 9,
19, 23, 26 Oct and on 13, 16, 20
and 24 Nov.
If the weather is particularly awful,
a visit to one of Zurich’s most special
cinemas is a good option. At
the Xenix (p. 15) you can take your
drink in from the bar and watch the
film snuggled up on a couch with
your loved one.
Zurich’s new spa (p. 48) in the
former brewery is impressive – but
when it gets busy it isn’t as relaxing
as it could be. You can escape the
bustle by ordering the Toi et Moi
package, 90 minutes for two in a
private bath, including a glass of
prosecco and massages.
So you've always wanted to be
a rock star? This is your chance!
Every Tuesday night the Karaoke
From Hell show is staged at the
Mascotte club (p. 36). A live
band accompanies anything you
choose to sing - as long as it's rock
or heavy metal! Even if you don’t
want to hit the stage it's a load of
head-banging fun.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich is a business destination first and foremost
- and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to
Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take
advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the
many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this,
accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real
budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is
something for any taste and almost any budget.
In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with
stars from one to five. The categorization is done by
hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel
can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating
a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels
according to their official classification in the following
categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange***
and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification
we list pensions - usually small and with less services
than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. The prices
indicated include VAT. The city tax is 2.50Sfr per night and
is usually additional.
One grand hotel after another: Eden au Lac
and Steigenberger Bellerive au Lac. PD
Cream of the Crop
Eden au Lac F-6, Utoquai 45, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41
44 266 25 25, fax +41 44 266 25 00, info@edenaulac.ch,
www.edenaulac.ch. Since 1909 the five-star Eden au
Lac has been the temporary home of some of Zurich‘s
most distinguished guests. In a listed, Art-Nouveau style
building, the hotel exudes a luxury old-world charm. As the
name suggests, the lake promenade is just across the
road. The rooms have high ceilings and tasteful furnishings.
Many of them come with a balcony or a terrace looking out
onto the lake - with a view of the Alps, if visibility is good.
There are junior suites and suites with a separate room for
your business meetings. For families, some rooms can be
connected by means of an additional door in the entrance
area. Every Thursday there is live jazz in the Eden Bar on
the ground floor and in the restaurant Eden chef Giuseppe
Storniolo definitely has more to offer than just his good
reputation. Q50 rooms (singles 450 - 590Sfr, doubles
690 - 765Sfr, business suite 1180Sfr). Breakfast 40Sfr,
Wi-fi 6 Sfr/1hr, 26Sfr/24hrs. PJHAR6ULKDW
hhhhh
zurich.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Park Hyatt Zurich D-5, Beethoven-Strasse 21,
8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 43 883 12 34, fax +41 43 883
12 35, zurich.park@hyatt.com, zurich.park.hyatt.ch. The
luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of Zurich’s business
district will impress you. The very spacious standard rooms
have full-height windows, free-standing sea-shell bathtubs, a
B&O sound and TV system and more. As it’s just a short walk
to Bahnhofstrasse or to the lake, the Park Hyatt is just as
good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Zurich.
Needless to say there is a first-class restaurant (parkhuus)
and an upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground floor, as well
as a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard room
doesn’t quite match your needs, there are executive and
deluxe rooms and suites with uncountable amenities. Q142
rooms (singles 490 - 1050Sfr, 130 doubles 640 - 1200Sfr, 11
suites 1790 - 4400Sfr, 1 presidential suite 5500 - 6400Sfr).
PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhhh
Widder E-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 25
26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, reservations@widderhotel.ch,
www.widderhotel.ch. The fabulous Widder is situated in
nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with
the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each
of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many
have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new
life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some
rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient
walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and
look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace
with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps.
Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology
and bathrooms to dream of. Q49 rooms (22 singles 560 -
610Sfr, 16 doubles 755 - 935Sfr, 9 suites 1420 - 2100Sfr, 1
family room 1175Sfr, 1 presidential suite 3800Sfr). Breakfast
32Sfr, Wi-fi free. PJHAR6UFLKW hhhhh
Zurich Marriott Hotel E-1, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof,
tel. +41 44 360 70 70, fax +41 44 360 77 77, marriott
.zurich@marriotthotels.com, www.zurichmarriott.com.
The views from the rooms in the main tower of the Zürich Marriott
Hotel just next to the main train station are breathtaking. The old
town, the river, the lake, it’s all there just outside your window. The
rooms with their light walls and dark wood furniture are modern
and elegant and come with quite some technology. If you would
like more space or an additional seating area, upgrade your
room to superior or executive category (the latter with 24 hour
access to the Executive Lounge). There is of course a gym with
sauna and solarium. The in-house bar 42, the Swiss restaurant
eCHo and the Thai restaurant White Elephant make for a real
first class experience. Event facilities for up to 600 persons
available. Q264 rooms (42 singles 235 - 410Sfr, 103 doubles
245 - 535Sfr, 8 suites 550 - 950Sfr, 30 junior suites 355 - 565Sfr,
1 business suite 950 - 1750Sfr). Breakfast 39Sfr, Wi-fi 35Sfr per
day. PJHA6UFLKDW international chain hotel
Symbol key
P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child friendly H Conference facilities
R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Parking on site
K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
J City centre location
W Wi-fi connection
October - November 2012
21

22 WHERE TO STAY
Upmarket
Crowne Plaza Badenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund,
tel. +41 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404 44 40,
info@cpzurich.ch, www.cpzurich.ch. The Crowne
Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13
minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The
365 rooms have all just been completely refurbished
and now come in a mix of bright and light brown hues,
with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower
or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities.
Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space
and a couch lounge. There is a 2000sqm fitness
centre with sauna for the use of hotel guest’s, including
an indoor pool. For lunch or dinner, the two in-house
restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your
needs. Q365 rooms (313 doubles 140 - 490Sfr, 2
suites 400 - 820Sfr, 9 Junior suites 310 - 710Sfr, 34
Deluxe rooms 250 - 650Sfr). Breakfast 33Sfr, Wi-fi incl.
PHAR6UFLBKDCW hhhh
NEW
Helmhaus F-4, Schifflände 30, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44
266 95 95, fax +41 44 266 95 66, hotel@helmhaus.ch,
www.helmhaus.ch. Centrally located in a historic building
next to Wasserkirche the rooms of this small and personal
hotel have a classy starkness which is eased by the drawings
of Swiss artist Gisèle Mengis. The floors are panelled with
dark wood, and many of the bathrooms have been renovated
recently. The Superior Room category offers some extra
space while the Design rooms on the fifth floor show an
individual touch. Soundproof windows that really deserve the
name make sure you enjoy a good night’s sleep. Q24 rooms
(8 singles 225 - 320Sfr, 16 doubles 310 - 470Sfr). Breakfast
and Wi-fi included. PJAW
Holiday Inn Zurich Messe O-2, Wallisellenstrasse
48, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. +41 44 316 11 00,
fax +41 44 316 11 01, info@hi-zm.ch, www.holidayinn
.com/zurichmesse. The Holiday Inn opened in 2009
and lies just opposite Zurich‘s biggest indoor concert and
sports venue Hallenstadion and the exhibition grounds in
Zurich Nord. A good choice for your business trip. The city
centre is just 15 minutes away by tram. The rooms all
feature dark parquet, Wi-fi, a kettle for free instant coffee
and tea, a safe and a TV. Of course one wall is painted
in the Holiday Inn‘s trademark bright green. If you prefer
more space, a real coffee machine and a minibar, ask for
an executive room. There is a gym, a bar and a restaurant
on the ground floor, and room service. Q164 rooms (164
doubles 147 - 299Sfr). Breakfast 24Sfr, Wi-fi included.
PHAR6UFLKW hhhh
Krone Unterstrass & Townhouse N-6,
Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel. +41 44
360 56 56, fax +41 44 360 56 00, info@hotel-krone.ch,
www.hotel-krone.ch. Just three stops by tram from the
main train station and the city centre, this four-star hotel
is conveniently located for leisure and business stays. The
Langstrasse district with popular bars and restaurants is in
walking distance. The rooms are bright and modern and rates
are moderate. The newly built Townhouse is located in the
courtyard with studios and junior suites with huge windows,
all equipped with a kitchenette, a coffee machine and an
iron - perfect for longer stays, as it combines the advantages
of an apartment with the services of a hotel. There is a
Mediterranean restaurant and a separate bar. Q76 rooms
(40 singles 185 - 210Sfr, 29 doubles 260 - 320Sfr, 5 triples
350Sfr, 2 junior suites 450Sfr). Breakfast 19Sfr, Wi-fi included.
PHA6ULKW hhhh
Opera F-5, Dufourstrasse 5, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 258
99 99, fax +41 44 258 99 00, welcome@operahotel.ch,
www.operahotel.ch. The twin of the Ambassador just
across the street is slightly more modern in style, but still
very classical. From the generous lobby, two staircases
lead to the rooms which were all renovated between 2003
and 2010. Wired internet is complimentary. Located in the
fashionable Seefeld district, this is a convenient place to
stay not only for a visit to Zurich‘s opera: Bahnhofstrasse
with its boutiques is just two tram stops away. If you get
a room on the third floor or higher you might even get a
glimpse of the lake. Q58 rooms (28 singles 198 - 395Sfr, 30
doubles 330 - 490Sfr). Breakfast 26Sfr, Wi-fi 25Sfr/24hrs.
PJAR6LW hhhh
Sheraton Zurich Neues Schloss Hotel D-5,
Stockerstrasse 17, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 94
00, fax +41 44 286 94 45, neuesschloss@sheraton.com,
www.sheratonneuesschloss.ch. This hotel in a landmark
building in Zurich’s financial district was renovated in 2009.
The rooms are decorated with tasteful yellow and brown hues
and artistic photos of Zurich. A kettle, a safe, a minibar and an
iron and board are provided. High-speed internet costs extra,
but you can surf the web for free at the workstations in the
lobby. The lake and the old town are both only a five-minute
walk away, so the Sheraton Neues Schloss is not only a good
choice for your business stay but for a weekend trip as well.
On the top floor there are five suites, all with balconies.Q60
rooms (singles 270 - 620Sfr, doubles 270 - 620Sfr, suites
460 - 1200Sfr). Breakfast 20-39Sfr, internet 28Sfr/24hrs.
PJHAR6ULKW hhhh
The spire of the Prediger church in Niederdorf. AM
Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive au Lac G-6, Utoquai
47, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41 44 254 40 00, fax +41 44
254 40 01, bellerive@steigenberger.ch, www.zuerich
.steigenberger.ch. The Steigenberger is a four-star superior
hotel situated directly on the lake, only a few tramstops from
Bahnhofstrasse. Swiss designer Tilla Theus has carefully
restored the historic hotel, mixing art deco elements like
lush leather-padded walls and delicate, geometric wooden
side-boards with discrete contemporary styling, such as in the
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
bathrooms finished in rock. A small spa area offers sauna and
solarium for your recreation. The elegant in-house restaurant
du Lac offers views of the lake and a range of classy meat
and fish dishes, while the gentlemen’s club atmosphere of
the Bellerive lounge makes it a good place to wind down
your day. Q51 rooms (14 singles 260 - 425Sfr, 33 doubles
330 - 495Sfr, 1 suite 950 - 1200Sfr, 3 junior suites 550 -
650Sfr). Breakfast 35Sfr, Wi-fi and wired internet 25Sfr/24hrs.
PJHAR6UFLKDW hhhh
St. Gotthard E-2, Bahnhofstr. 87, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB,
tel. +41 44 227 77 00, fax +41 44 227 77 50, reservation@
hotelstgotthard.ch, www.hotelstgotthard.ch.
From many of the rooms of this traditional family-run hotel
you get a view straight onto Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most
famous shopping street. Perfect for watching the hustle and
bustle. The rooms are decorated modern with bright yellow
and golden colours. All of them feature a kettle for coffee and
tea. There is a sauna and a massage room for your recreation.
The in-house Hummer bar servest seafood in a traditional,
elegant atmosphere. The lobby restaurant and the Manzoni
coffee bar with its outdoor seating make this hotel just two
minutes from the main train station complete. Q138 rooms
(31 singles 158 - 421Sfr, 99 doubles 192 - 529Sfr, 8 suites
375 - 1078Sfr). PJHAR6LBKDW hhhh
Mid-range
Alexander F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 40, 8Rudolf-Brun-
Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 82 03, fax +41 44 252 74
25, info@hotel-alexander.ch, www.hotel-alexander.ch.
The Alexander is an intimate three-star hotel with newly
renovated rooms (February 2012). They now come with dark
wooden flooring and sand-coloured bathrooms with LED
lights. They also have a safe, a flat-screen TV and free Wi-fi
throughout. The location in the Niederdorf nightlife area is very
central (five minutes walk to the main train station). This doesn‘t
make it the quietest of places, but the windows are soundproof.
Most rooms have air-conditioning. The Alexander also has a
two-star guest house around the corner. Q41 rooms (5 singles
150 - 200Sfr, 32 doubles 210 - 300Sfr, 4 triples 230 - 320Sfr).
Breakfast included, free Wi-fi. PJALW hhh
City D-3, Löwenstrasse 34, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44
217 17 17, fax +41 44 217 18 18, hotelcity@hotelcity.ch,
www.hotelcity.ch. A central choice with Bahnhofstrasse
and the old town in walking distance. The economy single
rooms are small, but come at a moderate price. For stays
longer than two nights we recommend a standard room
which gives you more space and air-conditioning. All rooms
come with a kettle for tea and coffee. The bathrooms
were renovated recently so you can now admire yourself
in a mirror lit with fancy LEDs. Small rooftop terrace for
your coffee break. Q61 rooms (32 singles 155 - 275Sfr,
29 doubles 250 - 370Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi included.
PJHAR6KW hhh
Comfort Hotel Royal F-2, Leonhardstrasse 6,
8Haldenegg, tel. +41 44 266 59 59, fax +41 44 266
59 60, office@comfortinn.ch, www.comfortinn.ch.
This hotel offers affordable, rather small non-smoking rooms
at a good three-star standard, only five minutes walk away
from the main train station and ETH / University. The tram
that stops in front of the entrance takes you directly to the
airport. The panorama rooms have huge windows and offer a
great view towards the Uetliberg, Zurich‘s own little mountain.
Smoker‘s lounge. Q70 rooms (40 singles 125 - 185Sfr, 28
doubles 180 - 280Sfr, 2 suites 320 - 360Sfr). Breakfast
included, wired internet 18Sfr/24hrs, Wi-fi 5Sfr/30min.
PJAR6XW hhh
zurich.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Meet the concierge
The concierges of the
city’s hotels are an important
source of information.
Good concierges will
be able to find answers to
almost all your questions.
For this issue, Antonio
Del Buono gave away
some of his secrets to us.
He has been concierge at
the St. Gotthard Zürich
for 16 years and a member
of the Swiss concierge
association Clefs d’ Or
Suisse since 12 years.
What do you like best about being a concierge?
It is like being on the theatre stage every day. Every
minute you can be faced with a different situation. You
have to play your role. It is a lot of fun. You have direct
contact with important people who are visiting us and
also from the city.
What was the most extraordinary request a guest
ever put to you?
One of our guests was stranded one day in Rome due to
strikes. He called me from there as he did not know what
to do, how to reach his country and could not speak any
Italian. I had to find a way for him to come to Switzerland
and fly from Zürich to the USA.
What do you personally like about Zurich?
It is really a small big city. Big enough to find all you
need. Restaurants, happening bars, shops, museums.
Small enough to have almost everything in walking
distance and still enjoy the peaceful and calm daily life
of a small city.
What is not to miss in Zurich? Especially in autumn?
Stroll along world-famous Bahnhofstrasse all the
way to the lake and take a 1.5 hour short boat tour
to make the most of the changing colours of nature
during autumn.
Which restaurants and bars do you recommend?
Restaurant Ciro: It is certainly not the fanciest place but a
romantic, cozy family restaurant in walking distance from
Bahnhofstrasse and the main railway station. Here you
are in the most authentic north Italian restaurant where
you get the best homemade pasta in town. Bar-Lounge
Hiltl: Europe’s first vegetarian restaurant founded in
1898. A very popular place where the guests meet at
the bar for an after-work drink.
What makes the hotel St. Gotthard special?
Our best location, right on world-famous Bahnhofstrasse,
in the middle of the banking and shopping area. Our over
120 years of traditional personalized service. Our finedining
fish restaurant ‘Lobster & Oyster Bar/Restaurant’.
Our 138 recently renovated rooms and suites including
the 100m 2 St. Gotthard Suite which is the largest on
Bahnhofstrasse.
Zurich In Your Pocket is...
...the best information tool in English about where to go,
what to visit, where to sleep, eat and drink and have fun.
October - November 2012
23

24 WHERE TO STAY
Du Théâtre F-3, Seilergraben 69, 8Central, tel. +41 44
267 26 70, fax +41 44 267 26 71, info@hotel-du-theatre.ch,
www.hotel-du-theatre.ch. This three-star design hotel is
located very centrally, at the beginning of the Niederdorf
old-town district. The building has an irregular shape, giving
each room a different layout. The actors’ quotes woven into
the carpets and pictures from the one-time theatre next door
(now a cinema) recall the building‘s past in an interesting
way. The rooms are rather small, but elegant. Soundproof
windows. Q50 rooms (31 singles 145 - 215Sfr, 17 doubles
205 - 310Sfr, 2 mini-suites 265 - 340Sfr). Breakfast 18Sfr,
Wi-fi 8Sfr/hr. JA6ULBKW hhh
A view from the Rudolf-Brun bridge across the River
Limmat. www.juanrubiano.com
Sorell Seefeld G-6, Seefeldstrasse 63,
8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 387 41 41, fax +41 44
387 41 51, info@hotelseefeld.ch, www.hotelseefeld.ch.
The Seefeld is a fully equipped three-star superior hotel
located just 200 metres from the lake in the Seefeld district.
All rooms have parquet floor, soundproof windows and some
also have a balcony. The grand-lit rooms feature beds with
a width of 1.6 metres and can be used by two for a small
surcharge; real double rooms are larger. There is a gym,
room service and a tram stop right on your door-step. No
air-conditioning, but an air cooling system. Q64 rooms (15
singles 190 - 300Sfr, 49 doubles 200 - 450Sfr). Breakfast
included, Wi-fi 25Sfr for 24h. HA6FLW hhh
Budget
Limmathof F-2, Limmatquai 142, 8Central, tel. +41 44
267 60 40, fax +41 44 262 02 17, info@limmathof.com,
www.limmathof.com. The Limmathof is centrally located at
the entrance to Niederdorf, close to the main train station and
most of Zurich‘s sights. The rooms are plain and the furniture
is a little long in the tooth - but all clean with nice wooden
floors and soundproof windows. There is a TV and a shower
or a bathtub in every room. Wi-fi can be used for free in the
common area. Not a modern hotel, but quite cheap for it‘s
location. Q55 rooms (16 singles 125 - 145Sfr, 35 doubles
168 - 185Sfr, 4 triples 190 - 240Sfr). Basic breakfast included,
free Wi-fi in the lobby. JA6K hh
Marta F-3, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. +41 44
269 95 95, fax +41 44 269 95 90, info@hotelmarta.ch,
www.hotelmarta.ch. The marta is a functional hotel, very
centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away
from the main train station. It was completely refurbished
in 2010 and the blue coloured rooms have a modern feel
now. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a
flatscreen tv in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the
hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving
socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There
is no air-conditioning but ventilators. Q39 rooms (singles
110 - 180Sfr, doubles 150 - 230Sfr, triples 225 - 260Sfr).
Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. JHA6UW hh
Pensions
Zum Guten Glück B-3, Stationsstrasse 7, 8Kalkbreite,
tel. +41 43 540 72 99, contact@zumgutenglueck.ch,
www.zumgutenglueck.ch. Opened in 2008, this lovely
pension offers basic rooms with shared showers and
bathrooms and sixties and seventies style furniture. Check-in
is at the coffee bar on the ground floor. The next tram stop
is close by and the tram takes eight minutes to get to the
main train station. The surroundings are about to change,
as a major road has just been closed to transit traffic. New
shops and bars have already opened in the area. Good choice
if you are looking for cheap accommodation. Q10 rooms (2
singles 59Sfr, 8 doubles 79 - 109Sfr). Wi-fi included. AKW
Hostels
Langstars C-2, Langstrasse 120, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41
43 317 96 55, info@langstars.com, www.langstars.ch.
This hostel is situated right on Langstrasse, the city’s top
street for bar-hopping and nightlife. The six dorms, one
women-only, are rather tight but feature big lockers, reading
lamps, toilets and showers. One even has a little terrace.
The bar on the ground floor is a good place to get talking to
other travellers - as a guest of the hostel you get a discount
on drinks. As an avid traveller himself, owner Lukas knows
what makes a good stay. He and his staff will be happy to
help wherever they can. Q (bunk beds in dorm 42 - 50Sfr).
Breakfast (buffet) and Wi-fi included. AEW
Youth Hostel Mutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental,
tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01,
zuerich@youthhostel.ch, www.youthostel.ch/zuerich.
This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with
bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a
small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located
- so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private
doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24
hours reception and cheap meals (18.50Sfr incl. soft drink).
It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to
the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right
in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other
travellers. Q76 rooms (16 doubles 138Sfr, 50 triples 158 -
173Sfr, 200 beds in 4- or 6-bed rooms 40 - 50Sfr). Hostelling
International membership required: a day’s membership 6Sfr,
yearly member card 33Sfr. Linen, breakfast and city tax
included, Wi-fi free in public area. HAUKW
Airport hotel
Welcome Inn Holbergstrasse 1, Kloten, tel. +41
44 804 75 75, fax +41 44 270 80 60, welcomeinn
@welcomegroup.ch, www.hotel-welcomeinn.ch. The
Welcome Inn is a functional three-star hotel close to the
airport. The rooms are decorated in a simple style and
have dark carpets. They feature a lounge seat, a desk, a
safe and a minibar. The in-house restaurant Kanzlei majors
on meat specialities and seasonal fare. They have a free
shuttle bus to the airport and free car parking on site. There
is a ventilation system, but no air-conditioning. Q98 rooms
(8 singles 105 - 180Sfr, 79 doubles 110 - 200Sfr, 9 triples
120 - 220Sfr, 2 suites 160 - 260Sfr). Breakfast 15Sfr, Wi-fi
incl., free car parking. HAR6ULKW hhh
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and
takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of
food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional
Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again.
But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange,
international style and are not easily categorized.
Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we
recommend within any particular category. The prices in
brackets indicate the cheapest and most expensive main
courses. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals,
usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants
close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30
and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and
the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the
coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this
guide.
The market-hall atmosphere of the, eh, Markthalle (p. 31).
American
Helvti Diner D-3, Kasernenstrasse 2, 8Stauffacher, tel.
+41 43 322 04 24, www.helvti-diner.ch. Quarterpounders,
hot dogs, sandwiches, French fries and some salads - the
menu of the Helvti Diner has a distinctly American flavour.
But it’s not just the menu; the long bar and the aluminum
stools conjour up some prototypical hollywood film scene. A
screen made of ketchup bottles adds a fancy touch - as well
as the dark red and purple tones of the tables and stools.
The burgers come with a sauce of your choice and were in the
best of taste at our visit - while the consistency of the fries left
some room for improvement. All day brunch on Sat. Q Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. Kitchen
open until 23:00, Thu - Sat until 01:00. (16 - 33Sfr). JA
zurich.inyourpocket.com
PD
RESTAURANTS
Symbol key
A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge
S Take away E Live music
J City centre location N No credit cards
8 Nearest tram station
B Outdoor seating
C-1 Map coordinates
Popcorn A-4, Friesenbergstr. 15, 8Goldbrunnenplatz,
tel. +41 43 960 73 73, www.hotel-neufeld.ch. The rear half
of a classic American automobile next to the entrance of the
Popcorn says it all - this is an American diner. But the menu is a
bit more sophisticated than you might expect: classic and spicy
tatar, home-mada pasta or Indian lamb curry. But don’t worry: a
burger with fries is available as well. For lunch, the menu changes
daily. The old American cars are present inside the restaurant
as well - on huge black and white photo posters. Daily breakfast
buffet (06:00 - 10:00, Sun & Sat 07:00 - 11:00). Q Open 06:00
- 23:00, Sat & Sun breakfast only (07:00 - 11:00), kitchen open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (15 - 32Sfr). AB
Asian
Blue Monkey F-3, Stüssihofstatt 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41
44 261 76 18, www.bluemonkey.ch. Choose between the
Thai Bistro on the ground floor (open all day) or the Thai Heaven
upstairs: in heaven you will get your meals served in bowls on
a candlelight heater in a more refined atmosphere - while the
bistro is cheaper and more for a quick eat, though you won’t
feel uncomfortable staying longer. Curries, salads, soups and
wok dishes - everything cooked by the kitchen staff who are
actually Thai. Food is rather pricey but the style, atmosphere
and cooking in the Blue Monkey is more upmarket than in most
Thais in Zurich. There is a smoker’s bar on the ground floor.
QOpen 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00
- 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,
Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (28 - 46 Sfr, bistro cheaper). JABX
Lily’s C-1, Langstrasse 197, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44
440 18 85, www.lilys.ch. Freshly prepared Asian treats:
from Thailand through Vietnam to China and Japan, and back
to India. Not exactly the place for a long, cosy dinner with
your friends but great for a quick, fresh and tasty meal - you’ll
be seated on long benches in between other customers. If
you get a seat close to the open kitchen you feel the heat
when the chef flames some stuff in his wok. Try the excellent
salmon teriyaki from the grill or one of the curries Lily’s is
famous for. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:30. (19 - 23Sfr). AS
October - November 2012
25

26 RESTAURANTS
Mishio E-3, Sihlstrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 228
76 76, www.mishio.ch. Fast and tasty Thai, Vietnamese
and Chinese dishes, that’s what you get at Mishio. Choose
between noodles, curries or dishes from the wok, everything
cooked by the all-Asian staff in the open kitchen. The curries
(tofu, duck, shrimps, chicken or beef) can be ordered mild,
medium or spicy, as you prefer. And spicy here really means
spicy, believe us. Exactly how we like it. Sister restaurant at
Stadelhoferstrasse 10 (G-5), +41 44 252 42 95. Q Open
06:30-23:00. Closed Sun. (23 - 30Sfr). JAB
Tiffins G-6, Seefeldstrasse 61, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.
+41 44 382 18 88, www.tiffins.ch. Very popular Asian
restaurant in the Seefeld district where you can watch the
cooks in the open kitchen prepare your meal. The menu
Decoding the menu
General terms
Käse cheese
Knoblauch garlic
paniert breaded
Pfeffer pepper
Rahm cream
Salz salt
Senf mustard
Zucker sugar
Fleisch Meat
Braten roast
Bratwurst sausage
Ente duck
Hackbraten meatloaf
Kalb veal (or calf)
Lamm lamb
Poulet, Hühnchen chicken
Rind beef
Schnitzel cutlet, often breaded
Schwein pork
Truthahn turkey
Ghackets mince meat
Geschnetzeltes meat in bite-size pieces
Leber(li) liver
Fisch Fish
Egli European perch
Forelle trout
Felchen common whitefish
Lachs salmon
Beilagen Side dishes
Aubergine aubergine, egg plant
Blumenkohl cauliflower
Bratkartoffeln roast potatoes
Brötchen bread roll
Erbsen peas
Kartoffeln potatoes
Nudeln pasta
Pilze mushrooms
Pommes Frites french fries, potato chips
Spargel asparagus
Spätzli egg noodles
Speck bacon
Zwiebeln onion
Dessert Desserts
Apfelstrudel apple pie
Berliner doughnut
(Schokoladen) Kuchen (chocolate) cake
Tiramisu Italian cream dessert
offers a large choice ranging from Thai to Vietnamese
cuisine: soups, curries, noodles, rice and salads. It is always
very noisy - not a place for a private chat with your business
partner but perfect for quick and tasty Asian food. Seating
is on long wooden benches. Reserving isn’t possible - just
wait a few minutes at the bar until you get a table. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Sat 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (17 - 25Sfr).
ABS
Fine dining
Bü’s E-3, Kuttelgasse 15, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211
94 11, www.buetique.com. Host Jörg Bühler established
this little paradise for wine lovers and gourmets just next to
Bahnhofstrasse in 2002. Try his well-known cordon-bleu
or the tatar - or go for the menu of the day with each course
accompanied by a glass of different wine (as an option). The
selection of wine is immense - but don’t worry, Jörg Bühler
himself is usually happy to give advice.QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,
Sat 11:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. (29 - 55Sfr). JAB
NEW
Café Boy A-2, Kochstrasse 2, 8Zypressenstrasse,
tel. +41 44 240 40 24, www.cafeboy.ch. Despite the
name, this is a restaurant and it’s not immature either.
Just beyond Langstrasse, in a one-time working-class
area, Café Boy occupies a newly renovated building of
Bauhaus-inspired elegance from the 1910s. Inside, white
tablecloths, black bistro chairs and the immense windows
set the scene. Dishes like smoked salmon tatar with maize
blinis or venison in a hazelnut crust get our mouths watering,
and there are some tasty snacky options as well. The chef
uses many regional products, and the fish from further
afar is sustainable. The excellent and copious selection
of wines, as well as the teas and cheeses all go to prove:
the boy is grown. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30, Sat & Sun closed.
(19 - 48Sfr, surprise menu 66/60Sfr (vegetarian), gourmet
menu 111Sfr). BA
Didi’s Frieden F-2, Stampfenbachstrasse 32,
8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. +41 44 253 18 10,
www.didisfrieden.ch. At Didi’s you get exquisite cuisine in a
genuine and not over-done atmosphere. Our evening took off
splendidly with the hors d’oeuvres and then continued with
the delightful four-course menu which is new every month
(around 95Sfr). We had marinated king fish as starter followed
by a tender piece of veal’s loin. Cooking and hospitality is a
vocation here and the art-work in chocolate on the desert
plates is just one of the proofs. Reservation recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. (29 - 54Sfr). JAB
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Kindli E-3, Pfalzgasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 43 888
76 78, www.kindli.ch. The Kindli is situated in a stately
old-town house just off Rennweg and serves solid food not
just from Switzerland in a refined atmosphere. At the Kindli
they do everything with a little extra: the Zurich classic
geschnetzeltes (veal in bite sized pieces) for example is
done here with filet of veal. Besides classics there are fish
and beef specialities on the menu. Leave room for a dessert:
the cake is excellent. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30.
Closed Sun. (39 - 64Sfr). JA
Spice (Hotel Rigiblick) Germaniastr. 99,
8Seilbahn Rigiblick, tel. +41 43 255 15 70,
www.restaurantrigiblick.ch. The view up here is awesome
- and so is the food. Dennis Purchert has just taken over, but
seeing he was souschef until now, the Spice is bound to stay
one of the city’s top restaurants. In the evening they serve
9 courses from which you can compose your own menu of
3 or more courses. The description of the dishes is rather
cryptical, with just the ingredients mentioned such as ‘Char
Peas Carrots’. This fish dish, however, turns out to be an
exquisite example of exceptional cooking, a marinated filet
of char on pea panna cotta with carrot. Food here does
have its price, but you are at the summit. Q Open 11:30
- 14:00, 18:30 - 00:30. Closed Sun & Mon. (Evening menu
120 - 195Sfr, lunch menu from 56Sfr). AB
French
Brasserie Lipp E-3, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel.
+41 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp.ch. The real French
brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut (choucroute)
with sausages, mussels with French fries, a rich choice of
sea food or the tartar of course. The Art-Deco interior gives
you a feeling of Paris - but it’s just next to Bahnhofstrasse.
The lift takes you up to the Jules Verne panorama bar in the
tower of the city’s observatory, a great place to finish your
evening with a cocktail and stunning views over the city. Q
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun
17:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 24:00 (23 - 60Sfr). JAB
Mère Catherine F-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41
44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Mother Catherine’s
menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish,
seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French
classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles
and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard
features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and
white tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The
tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.
All the fresh-water fish comes from Lake Zurich. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:15 (25 - 45Sfr). JAB
zurich.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Definitely one of Zurich’s more elegant dining rooms:
restaurant Kindli. PD
Storchen E-4, Weinplatz 2, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44
227 27 27, www.storchen.ch. One of the classics at the
stately rôtisserie of the hotel Storchen is ravioli filled with
veal with a sage sauce. Excellent, really! Its available as a
starter too. They also do a good zürcher geschnetzeltes
with rösti (sliced veal with hash browns). Actually you can’t
go wrong with anything here, be it fish or meat. On top of the
exquisite cuisine, there is a lovely big terrace just next to the
river with a perfect view over the river towards the old guild
houses and the Grossmünster church in Niederdorf. Q Open
11:45 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:45 - 14:00 & 18:00 - 21:30,
small menu all day until 22:45. (32 - 67Sfr). JAB
International
Blockhus F-4, Schifflände 4,, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44
252 14 53, www.restaurant-blockhus.ch. The rustic and
solid Blockhus is an institution in the old town. The menu of
the host known by everybody as Monsieur Pierre features a
weird, but friendly confusion of Spanish, Swiss, Italian and even
Thai dishes. One of the specialities of the house is the tartar,
served in many variations. We really loved the spicy one with
garlic and hot peppers. Locals and tourists are equally present
here - usually a fair indicator for a good restaurant. Q Open
11:30 - 24:00, Sun closed. (25 - 46Sfr). JAB
Nägelihof 3 8001 Zürich
at the Limmatquai nearby the Grossmünster
commercio.ch T 044 250 59 40
October - November 2012
27

28 RESTAURANTS
Cheese restaurants
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette,
originally come from the French speaking areas of
Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese
and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip
bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese
which is poured over boiled potatoes. For the Swiss
these are essentially winter dishes, so now’s the time
to try them - the listed restaurants below are specialists.
Chäsalp Tobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus
751), tel. +41 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch.
The Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg,
where fondue and raclette are now served in the old
stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience,
which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth
while. It’s usually very busy with tourists and locals,
also on Saturdays and Sundays, when they do a good
brunch. While there are 16 different kinds of fondues on
offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the
classic moitié-moité - we very much liked both. They have
meat and Swiss style pasta too - but remember, it’s the
cheese alp not the steak hut. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00,
17:30 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (26 - 56Sfr). A
Fribourger Fonduestübli C-3, Rotwandstrasse 38,
8Staufffacher, tel. +41 44 241 90 76, www.fribourger
-fondue-stuebli.ch. Fondue is considered a Swiss
national dish, but some regions have more of a tradition
than others. The canton of Fribourg prides itself on making
some of the best fondues, and here you can choose
between two different Fribourger cheese blends. One,
moitié-moitié, is a half-half blend of gruyère and vacherin
fribourgeois, two excellent cheeses which both come
from Fribourg. Have a glass of white wine with your meal,
but be careful not to lose the piece of bread while dipping
it in the melted cheese. Real Swiss chase it with a glass
of kirsch at the end to ease digestion - we suggest you
just do the same. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00.
Kitchen open until 22:00. (28Sfr). A
Le Dézaley F-4, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus,
tel. +41 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Since
1974 Pascal Ruhlé and his team have been cooking
dishes from the canton Vaud, situated in western
Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to an old
family recipe is definitely very tasty and also comes in
a version with morels (mushrooms). Or get one of the
fondue deals including a starter (like air-dried meat) and
a dessert. Try one of the different sausages of the region,
be it stuffed with cabbage or just served plain with French
beans or leek or go for one of the other Swiss dishes. The
old part of the restaurant is more charming, so try to get a
seat there. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JAB
©iStockphoto.com/Colin Soutar
Turm F-3, Obere Zäune 19, 8Rathaus, tel. +41
43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch. If you are not good
at decisions, you will have a hard time choosing at the
Caribbean restaurant Turm: the vast menu reads almost
like a zoo: crocodile, kangaroo, bison, beef, soups, salads
and quesadillas. The place is heavily decorated with plants
and palms, contrasting with the old house it’s located in.
Food is good and service fast - usually. The Turm is hidden
in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well known: just ask
for directions. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Non-stop kitchen until
23:30. (30 - 66Sfr). JAB
Italian
Bindella E-4, In Gassen 6, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 221
25 46, www.bindella.ch. Bindella is dedicated to Venetian
cuisine and it’s not just the Neo-Baroque interior: fish and
seafood rule the menu. Meat lovers get their money‘s worth
as well. Try spaghetti with clams (alle vongole) as a starter,
continue with the chopped calf‘s liver with risotto and finish
off with some Italian cheese. But no matter what you choose,
if you like Italian food, we‘re convinced you will be more than
pleased with what you get. The service is good, waiters are
smart and friendly and the atmosphere is not exactly quiet but
all the more Italian. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 17:30 - 23:00.
Nonstop kitchen until 22:00, Sun 21:30 (29 - 68Sfr). JAB
NEW
Don Leone C-3, Bäckerstrasse 31, 8Stauffacher, tel.
+41 44 241 01 01, www.donleone.ch. This is a real Italian
ristorante: it’s chatty, cramped and bustling - but that gives
the place its genuine atmosphere. You’ll most probably be
seated at one of their big wooden tables among others. Food
is good: we can really recommend their crunchy pizza. Unlike
most pizzerias they also have pizze bianche - pizza without
tomato topping like it’s eaten around Naples. But you’ll also
find meat specialities like costolette d’agnello (lamb chops)
on the menu. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Mon &
Sat 17:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. AB
Italia C-2, Zeughausstrasse 61, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.
+41 43 233 88 44, www.ristorante-italia.ch. Simple,
unspectacular, but nevertheless outstanding Italian cooking.
Start with a misto salumi, a selection of the almost twenty
Italian sausages in stock, then continue with some pasta (we
recommend linguine nere con gamberi, panna e pomodori -
black pasta with shrimps, cream and tomatoes) as a first dish
and then choose the galeton al diavolo (chicken on hot sauce)
- or skip the pasta and leave some space for sweets. The Italia
is a wine lovers paradise: there are 24 different wines served
by the glass. The futuristic wine tasting machine makes sure
the wines don’t oxidise and the quality stays perfect. Q Open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00. Kitchen
open until 22:00, Thu-Sat until 22:30 (17 - 34 Sfr). AB
NEW
Tschingg F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 2, 8Bellevue, tel. +41
43 210 38 07, www.tschingg.eu. This is a simple, cheap
and tasty pasta experience. Order one of the six different
vegetarian sugos on offer (9.50 - 13.50Sfr), and take a
seat. The pasta is served to your table within minutes. Our
pasta came really al dente and the tomato sugo Tschingg
we chose was very flavoursome - a tit bit hot, as we like it.
Unfortunately, we only spotted one single one of the capers
the sauce was meant to have in it. Tschingg, by the way, is
what the Swiss disparagingly called the Italian immigrants in
the 1960s. Nowadays their descendants are proud enough
of their heritage to open a restaurant with the same name.
Nice move. Take away 2.50 cheaper. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun closed.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Japanese
Ginger G-6, Seefeldstrasse 62, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.
+41 44 422 95 09, www.ginger-restaurant.ch. A fancy
but excellent sushi restaurant in the Seefeld district with a
modern, plain interior. At the small bar a conveyor belt supplies
you with never-ending sushi creations. At the tables in the
back you can not only enjoy the cold Japanese dishes but
fried fish and dozens of warm Japanese treats as well. The
food at Ginger’s is not only delicious, but pricey too. But you
can dine with a good conscience: all their fish is caught using
sustainable methods. QOpen 11:45 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00,
Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A
Sala of Tokyo D-1, Limmatstrasse 29, 8Sihlquai/
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 271 52 90, www.sala-of
-tokyo.ch. It calls itself ‘Japan‘s Food Embassy N°1’ - and
that‘s what Sala of Tokyo is, at least in Zurich. The Sala‘s
meals with 9 courses (130Sfr) will convince you that there‘s
more to Japanese kitchen than sushi or sashimi. Surprises
are included as the menu says no more than ‘something from
the sea’ or ‘something fried’. In the sankaiyaki part of the
restaurant the dishes are grilled at your table. If you want to
go for the extravagant try the celebrated Wagyu beef from
Kobe cattle (180Sfr).QOpen 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:45,
Sat 18:00 - 22:45. Closed Sun & Mon. Kitchen open until
21:30 (33 - 72Sfr). JAB
Yooji’s Bellevue F-5, St. Urbangasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel.
+41 44 253 11 11, www.yoojis.ch. No matter if you prefer
your sushi as a proper dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar
or to take away: the three Yooji’s in Zurich are a safe bet for
Japanese food. This one at Bellevue has a gallery where you
can sit at tables above the bar, maybe a good place to order
some of the more daring sushi creations. You can pick the
traditional ones from the conveyor belt while sitting at the bar.
By the way: over 80% of the fish is from sustainable sources.
There is another Yooji’s in the Seefeld district (Seefeldstrasse
115) and one close to Langstrasse (Josefstrasse 112).Q
Open 11:00 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. JAB
Mediterranean
Clouds K-6, Maagplatz 5, 8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44
404 30 00, www.clouds.ch. Well, this is what we call a
view! On the top floor of the newly opened Prime Tower you
can overlook the whole city while having dinner or sipping
on a cocktail. By choosing the restaurant, the bistro bar or
the lounge section of the Clouds, you also choose the part
of the city you’ll be able to gaze onto. In the bistro you can
always get something nice to eat, no matter what the time
of the day. In the restaurant fine dining classics like beef filet
are the ace in the hole. As the restaurant has just opened
zurich.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
The aptly named restaurant at the top of the Prime Tower:
Clouds. PD
last winter, reservation seems to be compulsory. Q Open
07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. (Restaurant only open for lunch and dinner,
lounge only in the evening). A
Les Halles K-6, Pfingstweidtsrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss
Platz, tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. This
garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from
around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch.
The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries)
are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar.
The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order
at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always
very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding
fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening
with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in
the back. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri &
Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open 11:45 -
13:45, 18:30 - 21:45. (19 - 35Sfr). B
Zum Grünen Glas F-4, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt,
tel. +41 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. A little bit
off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the
zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine
in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic
here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives
or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s
very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich
dishes like geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as
well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sat 17:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun.
Kitchen open until 22:00 (28 - 45Sfr). JAB
Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and
night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch
October - November 2012
29

30 RESTAURANTS
A distinguished atmosphere at Bohemia. PD
Oriental
Maison Blunt L-7, Gasometerstrasse 5, 8Limmatplatz,
tel. +41 43 211 00 33, www.maison-blunt.ch. Located
in a former garage, the Maison Blunt is a popular Moroccan
restaurant. It‘s split into two parts: the tea room where you
can spend the whole day sitting on low chairs and sofas and
the restaurant for lunch and dinner. Food here is excellent. We
recommend the big mezze platter to taste lots of different
oriental-style dishes like tabbouleh (bulgur wheat salad),
hummus, and baked cheese together with the fabulous pita
bread. Don‘t forget to order a glass of Moroccan red wine (yes,
they do wine in Morocco!) and finish off with the trademark
tea made with a generous sprig of fresh peppermint. Very
popular for brunch on weekends. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri & Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open
11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, weekend 10:00 - 23:00. (24
- 36Sfr). AB
Swiss cuisine
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is
heavily influenced by their neighbours‘ cuisine, especially
the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most
Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue),
a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking
cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take
getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality,
melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles
and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss,
the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being
the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional
Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce,
often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti,
a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla
but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland
also has an impressive range of breads to go with the
cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite
for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue
bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly
speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular
too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot
broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying
with a range of sauces and sides.
Palme de Beirut Bertastrasse 76, 8Goldbrunnenplatz,
tel. +41 44 462 64 73, www.palmedebeirut.ch. You
will not just bump into this restaurant by chance - but
it’s definitely worth the effort getting there if you fancy
Lebanese cooking: tram N°14 takes you from main train
station to Goldbrunnenplatz in just 12 minutes. From there
it’s a short walk down Bertastrasse. The rich mezzas platter
offers anything from moutabbal (a mousse of egg plants
and sesame) to roasted quails - and is excellent. Or try a
kafta halabieh (skewer with minced lamb on hot sauce) or
kastaleta ghanam (grilled lamb chops on a coriander sauce)
and finish with a sweet baklawa (nut pastry). On weekends a
belly dancer might make the oriental experience perfect - if
you are lucky. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun & Mon 18:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 22:30. AB
Spanish
Bodega Espanola F-4, Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus,
tel. +41 44 251 23 10. If you’re looking for no-nonsense
Spanish charm in Zurich the Bodega is the place to head for.
After an ‘hola’ from the waiter, choose from the tapas on
display at the counter: squid salad, figs wrapped in bacon,
chicken wings etc. (each 5.40Sfr). A must-try is the excellent
tortilla. Then take a seat at one of the large tables - a short
chat comes easy as you’ll probably be sharing with other
guests. The waiters will also be pleased to put together a
selection of tapas for you. Agree on a maximum price to avoid
surprises. For dining in a slightly more classy atmosphere visit
the Sala Marisco on the first floor. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Kitchen open until 23:00 (22 - 48Sfr). JA
Zum Grobe Ernst F-3, Stüssihofstatt 16, 8Rathaus,
tel. +41 44 251 20 55, www.zumgrobeernst.ch. Don’t
be scared off by the name of this venue (Rude Ernest): host
Ernesto is unhurried and comfy rather than rude. The food
he puts on the plate is Spanish, though with visible Swiss
and international influences: gambas al ajillo (shrimps in
garlic sauce), paella, pollito flambeado (chicken flambé) or
veal chops. As a side dish we recommend nudeln Ernesto
(pasta with cream and cheese) - no matter if they match your
main course, just try them. Sometimes a guitarrero makes
the experience even more Spanish. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00,
18:00 - 00:30, Sat 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. Kitchen open
until 22:45 (38 - 62Sfr). JAB
Steak houses
NEW
Bohemia H-5, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel.
+41 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. Bohemia’s waiters
wear ties - and they’re not the only thing with style around
here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give the
recently renovated Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere,
drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd.
They now mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the
wood-fire grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the
just slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can
be busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a
table in the room at the back. Q Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu
& Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
(25 - 64Sfr). AB
King’s Cave F-2, Central 1, 8Central, tel. +41 44
256 55 55, www.central.ch. Walk down the stairs from
the entrance of the Central Plaza Hotel and dive into the
atmosphere of a mediaeval castle’s cellar: a fireplace,
candle holders and richly ornamented wall-carpets set you
some hundred years back in time. The good service and
the food quality are definitely from nowadays. The menu
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
features mainly grilled meat. The steaks are all served over
a candle arrangement, so the meat stays warm and you
just help yourself when required. Certainly a good choice for
meat lovers and aspiring knights. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until
23:30! (36 - 64Sfr). JA
Swiss
As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is
(see Swiss cuisine p. 30), we list some traditional restaurants
here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern
way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue
and raclette see the box on page 28. We list the traditional
Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve
generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad
way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
Niederdorfstrasse, the main thoroughway of the Niederdorf
old town. zuerichfoto.ch
NEW
Café Zähringer F-3, Zähringerplatz 11, 8Rudolf-Brun-
Brücke, tel. +41 44 252 05 00, www.cafe-zaehringer.ch.
Zäh, as this place is lovingly called by some, has survived
as a cooperative fully under employee control for over thirty
years in the heart of this banking city. The warm, simple
interior is second home to many in the left political scene
in Zurich, and socialist imagery abounds. You can have
coffee and cake or a beer here, but you also eat well at
great prices, whether you choose pasta, a wok dish or one
of the daily menus, like olive ravioli with pine-nuts, tomatoes
and ruccola. There are meat, vegetarian and vegan options,
even soy-milk for the hot chocolate. The staff with their
tattoos and rasta hair-dos are friendly and direct. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:00 - 24:00. (9 - 28Sfr). JB
Gotischer Saal - Haus zum Rüden F-3,
Limmatquai 42, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 95 66,
www.hauszumrueden.ch. Dining in the gothic room of
this distinct old guild house on Limmatquai sets you back
in time: very spacious with stone walls and a hardwood
ceiling it’s a feast for the eyes. And not just your eyes can
feast, but your other senses too. The classic French and
Swiss cuisine featuring beef and lamb as well as fish is
exquisite - and has its price. Get some sweets from the
dessert trolley at the end or go all the way and order the
five-course gourmet menu (138Sfr), trolley included. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
(48 - 76Sfr). JA
zurich.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
NEW
Hornegg Seefeldstrasse 201, 8Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnen,
tel. +41 44 422 41 40, www.restaurant-hornegg.ch. In
the Seefeld district, close to Tiefenbrunnen station, this place
serves traditional, simple, down-to-earth Swiss food in a
rustic atmosphere as solid as ever. Come here for their great
cordon bleu or the schnitzel - or go for the käseschnitte, a
slice of bread with tomatoes, ham and cheese browned in
the oven. Swiss people call a no-fuss restaurant like this a
beiz - a compliment the Hornegg really deserves. Q Open
08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. B
Kronenhalle F-4, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. +41
44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. The Kronenhalle
is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists,
editors-in-chief and celebrities come to this famous brasserie
- and mix with (well dressed) ordinary people. Lots of wood
and original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give
the brasserie its classic yet old-fashioned look - nothing
has changed in decades. The food (classics: schnitzel with
cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good, pricey,
but certainly not as important as the see-and-be-seen.QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15 (28 - 76Sfr). JAX
Markthalle L-6, Limmatstrasse 231, 8Dammweg,
tel. +41 44 201 00 60, www.restaurant-markthalle.ch.
Eat modern Swiss cuisine in Zurich’s only market hall, built
underneath a railway overpass (part of the shopping mall Im
Viadukt). Start with bread and one of four different spreads,
or a portion of fresh sausages, continue with some pasta,
roast or meat from the grill. And don’t forget the market-fresh
vegetables. All dishes are served on platters in the middle
of the table, so you can taste your friends’ orders too. Don’t
worry if it feels like an earthquake is coming on - it’s just a train
passing overhead. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Kitchen open Mon-Wed until 22:00, Thu - Sat until 22:30. A
After looking around,
look for
great food.
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October - November 2012
31

32 RESTAURANTS
Quick eats
Not surprisingly, there are plenty of options for a quick
eat in Zurich, be it a speedy dinner or a snack on a tour
through the city’s nightlife. The Turkish kebab and its
variations are probably the most popular fast food and
can literally be found everywhere. If you want something
more local, go for a grilled bratwurst or a cervelat
(both Swiss sausages). Besides that are many Asian
take-aways, as well as the big American burger joints
McDonalds’ and Burger King of course. We list some of
our favourites for you:
NEW
menüfoif K-6, Hardstrasse 320, 8Escher-Wyss
Platz, tel. +41 44 271 21 21. The jazz in the
background, the curtain made of old spoons, the no-fuss,
calm service - menufoif is a slightly different take-away.
Their business is sandwiches and this they do very well:
the ciabattas, panini and other variations are offered with
a range of fillings, such as sun-dried meat and ruccola or
aubergine, tomato and mozzarella, apart from salads and
drinks. You can’t eat anything on site though, as the city
police are located so close by that the usual lee-way that
take-aways enjoy is just not given. Just grab something on
your way through. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 18:30.
Sat & Sun closed.
Sternen Grill F-5, Sechseläutenwiese/Bellevue,
8Bellevue, www.sternengrill.ch. This is the city’s
most famous sausage barbecue. Because its traditional
location is undergoing renovation, it’s temporarily
located in a motor home on Sechseläutenwiese at
Bellevue. The bratwurst here is tasty, but the mustard
is what’s really special: made with horseradish it’s extra
hot and fiery. No matter the weather (there is a tent
and heaters), this is where Zurich gets its bratwurst.
You can also get grilled chicken, French fries and other
snacks - but the bratwurst is what Sternen Grill is all
about. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30.
Beer halls
Bierfalken D-3, Löwenstrasse 16, 8Löwenplatz, tel.
+41 44 211 68 23, www.bierfalken.ch. The walls lined
with dark wood and the big tables with benches and solid
chairs give this restaurant a rustic and very traditional charm.
The menu features solid Swiss dishes like cordon bleu,
schnitzel or rösti. The place is popular with businessmen
and workers alike. The food and the service are good and
portions generous, even though it’s a bit more expensive
here than in similar places. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. (23 - 37Sfr). JA
Brasserie Federal E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15,
8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 217 15 15, www.brasserie
-federal.ch. This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100
different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside
the main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for
9.90Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the tap in
small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served
fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon
and raclette cheese. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open
until 22:30 (19 - 30Sfr). JA
Rheinfelder Bierhalle F-2, Niederdorfstrasse 76,
8Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch.
The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place
where workers, students, and business men alike go for the
big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food
- and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm,
but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli
(pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ballshaped
noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon
bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the
waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of
meat the size of an elephant’s ear. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Kitchen open until 23:15 (12 - 32Sfr). JNB
Zeughauskeller E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 28a,
8 Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15,
www.zeughauskeller.ch. The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal)
is one of Zurich’s biggest beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval
arsenal it serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous
helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with
tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where
it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables
with other guests. Old military devices standing around are
there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk,
you might end up getting conscripted. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
Kitchen open until 22:15 (19 - 40Sfr). JAB
Vegetarian
Bona Dea E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Bahnhofquai/HB,
tel. +41 44 217 15 15, www.bona-dea.ch. Bona Dea in the
main train station offers a large vegetarian buffet every day of
the week, with curries, other Asian and also Italian dishes and
salads and dessert. The atmosphere has a touch of airport
anonymity, but the staff, who serve the drinks, are very friendly.
Q Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00. (21 - 42Sfr). JA
Hiltl D-3, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 227 70
00, www.hiltl.ch. The Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian institution
par excellence. It’s simply amazing what they do with purely
vegetarian ingredients. Just grab a plate and pick from the
huge choice of curries, chutneys, salads, tofu and a lot more…
Take away and eating in the bar area is cheaper, while the
restaurant area with table service and à la carte dishes offers
more comfort. In the evening the bar doubles as a club. Q Open
06:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 06:00 - late, Sun 08:00 - late. Kitchen
daily from 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 33Sfr). JAB
tibits G-5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44
260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. The sumptous vegetarian buffet
is the focal point of tibits - everybody queues up to choose
from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups
and sweets. The food is excellent, making tibits very popular
with the business people and the hipper residents of the
Seefeld area. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around
the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, +41 44 258 17 18 (Open
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00). QOpen 06:30 - 23:30,
Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30.
(buffet, 4.20Sfr per 100 grams). JAB
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Café des Amis M-6, Nordstrasse 88, 8Limmatplatz,
tel. +41 43 536 93 81, www.desamis.ch. Not too far from
Limmatplatz and still within the reach of a Zurich visitor, the
Café des Amis is a relaxed place for breakfast on weekdays
or a long brunch on the weekend. After its opening it quickly
became popular with urbanistas of every age, much in
contrary to the many venues that tried their luck before at
this location. In the evening it’s a location for chilling with a
drink at the bar. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 -24:00,
Sun 09:00 - 18:00. B
NEW
Collana F-5, Theaterstrasse 9, 8Stadelhofen, tel. +41
44 250 59 10, www.commercio.ch. At the entrance to the
new subterranean car park in front of the opera at Bellevue
there is a stylish new café. A huge window front, stone floors
and the wooden panels behind the bar bring a fancy italianità
to the place. The coffee here is excellent and the food Italian,
solid and rather pricey (e.g. ravioli 25Sfr). Also on their menu
you’ll find the original pepito, a sandwich with a piece of grilled
meat (beef, lamb or chicken), onions and a secret sauce. It
has many fans and was sold for decades in the Niederdorf
until the place was recently closed. Nice outdoor area. Q
Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JAB
Café des Amis, waiting for your custom. Florian Kalotay
Gran Café Motta F-3, Limmatquai 66, 8Rathaus,
tel. +41 44 252 31 19. The Gran Café on Limmatquai - an
institution for decades - was completely renovated in 2010.
It now oozes Italian elegance - bright parquet floors, a long
metallic bar - tastefully combined with playful, modernist
elements. The coffee is strong and tasty, especially the
Indonesian blend. The ceiling height of more than 4.5 metres
gives the place the grandezza of a Gran Café. Italian paninis
and appetizers - and probably the best outdoor seating for
watching the world go by on Limmatquai. QOpen 07:00 -
23:00, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. Kitchen open
until 22:00 JNB
La Stanza D-4, Bleicherweg 10, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 43 817 62 82, www.lastanza.ch. This popular
Italian style coffee bar close to Paradeplatz offers a variety
of Mediterranean liquors, wines and drinks - and the local
beer Paul on tap. The rather well-dressed customers sit on
the window benches and sip on their sprizz (a mixture of
zurich.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉS
prosecco and aperol liquor) served by the stylish black-tied
owners. The stone bar and the big steaming coffee machine
(a 1963 Faema) in the back make the Italian experience
perfect. Soups and Italian snacks available - brunch on
Sundays. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:30, Sat 10:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. J
Schurter F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 90, 8Central,
tel. +41 44 252 32 32, www.cafeschurter.ch. At
Schurter’s you get traditional Zurich pastries like hüppen,
offleten and tirggel, all members of the family of the
waffle. We recommend enjoying them with a hot chocolate
(served in 7 different flavours). From the window seats
you can observe the never-ending flow of pedestrians
entering or leaving the Niederdorf part of the old town
at Central, where the café is located. The high bar tables
and stools give the place a modern touch despite its
almost 150 years of history. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J
Sprüngli E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. +41 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Sprüngli
is the place to stop for a coffee on a shopping tour on
Bahnhofstrasse. It has been around for 170 years and
for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery
and chocolate. Try to get a window seat on the first floor
overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee or a hot chocolate
and choose something sweet from the display cabinet -
best known are the Luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a
light and airy cream filling in different flavours. Unusually for
Switzerland you pay at the cash desk when leaving. Lunch
meals and brunch every day, coffee bar and shop on the
ground floor. QOpen 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:30 - 17:30. JABK
Breakfast
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss
families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts,
a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is
served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats.
Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread,
maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a
few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants,
called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another
breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli,
made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and
yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss
don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many
takes on the müesli-theme.
In recent years, brunch has become very popular in
Switzerland and in Zurich many restaurants and cafés
now serve breakfast or brunch until noon or even later.
Here come our favourites:
Casablanca, à la carte brunch Sat and Sun 08:00 -
14:00 (p. 35).
Maison Blunt, one of the most popular brunches,
with an Moroccan oriental touch, brunch daily 08:00 -
16:00 (p. 30).
Hiltl, a splendid, spicy vegetarian buffet brunch, only
Sun 09:30 - 14:30 (p. 32).
Sprüngli, one of Zurich’s most traditional cafés,
breakfast and brunch every day (p. 33).
October - November 2012
33

Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and
alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and
strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of
Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The
main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town, the
streets around Langstrasse and Zurich West (see Zurich’s
districts). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens
of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A
night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If
you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy,
as not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the
quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old
town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings.
Casual bars
NEW
01Bar Limmatquai 86, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel.
+41 43 268 00 66, www.01bar.ch. This bar caters to a
rather young clientele who like to have a drink here before
they probably head off for some bigger nightlife adventures
than just bar fun. And classic bar fun is exactly what you get
here - drinks, cocktails and beer on high and low standard
tables. In the evening the bar crew usually spins some house
music. The 01 is a restaurant too with a small menu - and
with its outdoor seating next to the Limatquai promenade
a good day-time choice as well. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri
08:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. K
A busy atmosphere at the casual Schmuklerski bar. PD
Casablanca C-2, Langstrasse 62, 8Helvetiaplatz,
tel. +41 44 241 60 00, www.cafe-casablanca.ch. A
lively bar in the Langstrasse district where a young, quite
hip crowd warms up for the weekend. Lie back on one of the
brown leather sofas in the post-industrial atmosphere - if
you’re lucky enough to get a seat, as it’s often packed.
It’s also good for a relaxed coffee in a hushed, hung-over
atmosphere during the day. And they do home-made
sweets and small lunch dishes. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00,
Mon closed.
Schmuklerski C-3, Badenerstrasse 101,
8 Bezirksgebäude, tel. +41 44 241 15 41,
www.schmuklerski.ch. The Schmuklerski draws a stylish
but relaxed bar crowd, with the cool concrete architecture and
lush lights and chandeliers setting the scenery. It also makes
a pleasant place for a coffee during the day and the bar menu
offers considerably more than just sandwiches. You can also
move over into the restaurant in the adjoining room, where
the cooking is a confident combination of Mediterranean,
zurich.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE
Swiss and international influences. There are occasional
jazz concerts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Mon 07:00 - 23:00,
Thu 07:00 - 00:30, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Kitchen open until 22:30 AEBK
Wings F-4, Limmatquai 54, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43
268 40 55, www.wings-lounge.ch. The barman wears
an airline captain’s uniform, the seats are from a plane and
the cocktails have names like Happy Landing and Jetlag:
welcome aboard the Wings bar. Founded by former Swissair
employees after the grounding of the national airline in 2001,
Wings has been up in the air now for more than a decade
and tenders everything from cocktails to sours, Martinis and
fizzes. Salads, steaks or club sandwiches are also available.
Expect a stylish and rather classy crowd - but even if you’re an
economy-class traveller you won’t feel out of place. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. A
Classy bars
Metropol E-4, Fraumünsterstrasse 12, 8Börsenstrasse,
tel. +41 44 200 59 00, www.metropol-restaurant.ch.
Situated in a Neo-Baroque house close to Paradeplatz, the
Metropol surprises with a contemporary arrangement. And
yes, it actually matches. A nice place for a coffee throughout
the day (quiet outdoor seats!), this bar comes to life in the
evening, when classy ladies and businessmen mix with
tourists and sip on one of the many cocktails on the menu.
As an aperitif we recommend the satay skewers - or one of
the sushi creations. For a bigger appetite, just move over to
the restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Nietturm K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 4, 8Escher-Wyss
Platz, tel. +41 44 258 70 77, www.nietturm.ch. This
classy cocktail bar situated in the top two floors of a glass
tower above the Schiffbau (an old industrial hall which now
contains the city‘s main theatre stage) offers panoramic view
over Zurich West. You enter the bar with an elevator from the
main hall of the Schiffbau. Enjoy the fall of night sitting on
one of the red stools nipping on a gin fizz, a caipirinha or one
of the fourteen single malts on the menu. A large bar and a
stylish fireplace can be found on the second floor. Q Open
17:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun & Mon. A
Rive Gauche E-4, Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel.
+41 44 220 50 60, www.agauche.ch. The Rive Gauche
bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of the five-star hotel
Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar is situated mix with
the young city crowd. With the dark wooden bar, the mirrors
on the wall and the living-room-like lampshades the bar looks
classic British with a touch of modernity. A good place for
cocktails and drinks right in the centre of the city. The Rive
Gauche is also a restaurant with good, rather pricey meat
and seafood on the menu. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Fri & Sat
11:30 - 02:00. JAK
usgang.ch - your party portal
zuerich.usgang.ch is a website where you can check out
what’s on in town. A simple click on a certain date in the
calendar shows you all the parties and events that are
on that day. Name of the party, music style played and
location - it’s all there. You’ll understand even if you don’t
speak German. And don’t forget to go back to the site the
day after partying to see if one of their photographers
caught you in action.
October - November 2012
35

36 NIGHTLIFE
Live music venues
Zurich offers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal,
indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing
somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars
listed here focus on live music. Some are just open if
there is a concert. For their daily programme, check
the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch.
Exil K-6, Hardstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, tel.
+41 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. National and foreign
bands from indie rock through folk and rap to electro live
on stage almost every night of the week.QX
Komplex 457 Hohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli,
www.komplex457.ch. This is the city’s third largest
concert and party hall (hosting up to 2300 spectators).
Some of the city’s most renowned concert and party
organisers bring indie rock and more to this club.
Mascotte F-5, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue,
tel. +41 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. This club
often features live concerts of international rock and pop
bands before they start the parties. Don’t miss the crazy
Karaoke from Hell show: almost every Tuesday a live band
accompanies you as you sing rock or heavy metal songs
on stage (start 22:30)!
Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss-
Platz, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. With
more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s
prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music.
Big international names as well as many Swiss artists.
After-show parties on the weekend.
Classical dancing
Salsa
Fridays
Friday’s night @ bananenreiferei (Salsarica)
Pfingstweidstrasse 101, 8Toni Areal, www.salsarica.ch.
DJ Palmar, Pepe and friends spin all the salsa, bachata and
merengue classics on a large dance floor. Q Dancing Fridays
from 21:00. More latin parties on Mon & Sat. Admission 15Sfr.
Wednesdays
Salsa con 5 (Garufa Dance Club) K-6,
Pfingstweidstrasse 10, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz,
www.garufa.ch. Every Wednesday, DJ Pasito plays
salsa, merengue and bachata in the Garufa Dance Club.
Q Dancing on Wednesdays from 21:00.
Tango / Milongas
Sundays
Club Tango Argentino (Restaurant Falcone) B-4,
Birmensdorferstrasse 150, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel.
+41 44 463 55 25. This very classic milonga with DJ’s Anneke,
Julio and Horacio takes place in the hall on the first floor of the
Falcone restaurant. Expect a genuine atmosphere with rather
senior dancers. Q Dancing on Sundays from 19:30.
Thursdays
Don Milonga (Garufa Dance Club) K-6,
Pfingstweidstrasse 10, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz,
www.garufa.ch. A milonga full of atmosphere in the
party district of Zurich West. If you need some practice,
come at 19:30 and warm up with professional instruction
before the party starts. Q Dancing on Thursdays from
21:00. Admission: 10Sfr, with lesson 15Sfr.
Sein E-2, Schützengasse 5, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41
44 221 10 65, www.zuerichsein.ch. The dark wooden floor
give this stylishly designed tapas bar a nice cosy feel. The
tapas here are called Seinigkeiten and don’t come straight
from Spain but have rather an international touch, e.g. veal
ravioli or sturgeon carpaccio. In order to be able to taste as
many of these culinary delights as possible, we recommend
ordering Gemischte Seinigkeiten, a plate of mixed tapas.
There is a well assorted wine menu, a lovely outdoor area
and a restaurant for those with more of an appetite. Q Open
10:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat & Sun. ABK
Alternative bars
NEW
ARTige Bar Spitalgasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,
tel. +41 44 251 23 42, www.susibrunner.ch. On the
ground floor of the art gallery Susi Brunner (specialised
in outsider art), the tiny ARTige bar is an evening hotspot
for students and even younger folks who fancy the beers
and drinks on offer here. The place is pleasantly casual in
contrast to the many uberstylish places in Zurich. Sympatico,
we say. In the afternoon it’s a great place for a coffee break
(try the chocolate cake!) - not just for youngsters. There is
usually an exhibition on in the café - and more art to see on
the first floor.QOpen from 14:00, Sun & Mon closed.
Bar Sein, or ‘being’. Sounds philosophical, looks stylish. PD
La Catrina C-2, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41
78 771 13 46, www.lacatrina.ch. Don‘t get scared off
by the girls looking to sell their love to you outside this tiny
bar: this real Mexican place - no sombreros or ponchos,
but handcrafted smiley skeletons, bones and lots of
candles - fast became popular with lovers of margaritas,
beer, alternative live music and parties. On Tuesdays
and Thursdays Swiss bands rock what’s probably the
smallest stage in town. On weekends DJs often play the
latest alternative tracks. Usually there is no admission,
but that‘s not the only reason it‘s always packed like hell:
it‘s just a perfect place to party until the break of dawn.
Table football downstairs. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00, Tue &
Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.
Closed Sun. E
Taverns and drinkeries
NEW
Barrique Marktgasse 17, tel. +41 44 252 59 41,
www.barrique-weinbar.ch. The walls panelled with
sections of wooden wine crates, the tables decorated
with wine labels and the lamps made of bulgy wine
bottles get the message across: this is a wine tavern.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
The atmosphere here is calm and stylish and therefore
perfect for a chat with your significant other. With the
many wines (many sold by the glass) they serve Spanish
tapas variations. They also have weekly changing menus
and classics like tatar, sirloin steak and many salads on
the menu. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,
Sun closed. K
Olé-Olé C-2, Langstrasse 138, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.
+41 44 242 91 39. An institution on Langstrasse: since
1966 the Guyer siblings have been running this legendary
bar. The interior is a museum of trashy items like trumpets,
kitchen utensils and all kinds of signs. There‘s even a traffic
light flashing away in a corner. Just before midnight dozens
of alarm clocks hanging from the ceiling start to ring: this
is the sign for last orders. The jukebox plays hard rock and
heavy metal only. The Olé-Olé Bar looks like the whole
Langstrasse district looked 20 years ago - go there and
travel back in time. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -
02:00. Closed Sun.
Dance bars
Palavrion Bar D-5, Beethovenstrasse 32,
8 Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 54 54,
www.palavrion.ch. This is where the young and the young
at heart come for after-work drinks and partying. DJs spin the
latest party and house tunes from Thursdays to Saturdays
to make sure both sexes are in a communicative mood.
Bouncers see to it that not everyone gets in - but getting past
them is usually not really a problem. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Thu & Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 21:00 - 03:00, closed Sun. No
admission. AK
Valmann D-4, Talstrasse 58, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 43 497 31 31, www.valmann.ch. The office
workers of the city centre go crazy after work in this dark
venue in the financial district. Starting Thursday DJs spin
the latest dance tracks while the chic crowd consumes
vodka by the bottle and dances its ass off. But please
leave your tie at home - or the bartender willl be happy to
cut it off and hang it behind the bar, before you get your
drink. The Valmann crew just thinks partying without a tie
is more relaxed. And they do have a point there. Q Open
17:30 - 01:00, Thu & Fri 17:30 - late, Sat 20:30 - late, Sun
& Mon closed. A
Pubs
Oliver Twist F-3, Rindermarkt 6, 8Rathaus, tel.
+41 44 252 47 10, www.pickwick.ch. The Oliver
Twist in Niederdorf is a popular hangout for expats as well
as locals. Are you looking for English beer, burgers, fish
n’chips, chicken wings and salads? Relax, it’s all there. All
the sports on numerous TVs - but be early for important
games to make sure you get a place. Drunkenness is
encouraged - but it’s easy to get in contact with people
here anyway. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
BK
The Lion E-3, Oetenbachgasse 24, 8Rennweg, tel.
+41 43 888 66 66, www.candriancatering.ch. This
high-end pub combines the features of an English pub
with the elegance of a wine bar: sports on flat-screen TVs,
table service, six red and six white wines sold by the glass
and six beers on tap as well - from the local Hürlimann
to Guinness and Kilkenny. They also serve food: classic
burgers, wienerschnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) and grilled
beef. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
Closed Sun. AK
zurich.inyourpocket.com
Billiards & Bowling
NIGHTLIFE
Billiardino K-6, Heinrichstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss-
Platz, tel. +41 43 960 33 33, www.billiardino.ch. With
47 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and videogames
Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in the middle of
the nightlife district Zurich West. Besides the sports there
is a bar with pizza and pasta to please your stomach. You’ll
find Billiardino behind the Abaton multiplex cinema. Q
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00,
Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 24/27Sfr per hr.
Bowling West Ifangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. +41
44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Bowling West is
located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train from
Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction Baden/
Brugg or Aarau). In Schlieren cross to the northern side
of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the direction
where the train came from. This bowling centre has 17
lanes as well as billiards, table football, darts and a bar.
Booking by phone recommended. Q Open 14:00 - 24:00,
Fri & Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. 38 - 47Sfr
per hour and lane.
Café Schlauch F-4, Münstergasse 20, 8Helmhaus,
tel. +41 44 251 23 04. The Schlauch is a traditional
restaurant in the old town with about a dozen billiards
tables. Tables are often busy, but as the Schlauch is a
restaurant too, you simply let the guys put you on the
reservation list and sit down and have a beer or two. They
serve hearty organic food as well. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00,
closed Sun & Mon.
October - November 2012
37

38 NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
Adagio E-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Stockerstrasse, tel.
+41 44 206 36 66, www.adagio.ch. In a mediaeval decor
with big chandeliers, paintings and stonework, the Adagio
hosts a slightly older, well-groomed crowd. Dress up to
party to dance classics, funk, soul and house music. Expect
gentlemen over fifty hunting for girls who might well be you,
as well as thirty-something couples who are just having a big
night out. Not cheap entertainment, but if you are on a budget
trip not the place you want to go anyway. Latin sounds on
Tuesdays, Brazil-party on Wednesdays. Q Open 21:00 - late,
Tue & Wed 20:00- late, Sun & Mon closed. Admission: Tue &
Wed 5-10Sfr, Thu 10Sfr, Fri & Sat 25Sfr. A
For some real partying in style: Kaufleuten. usgang.ch
Encore G-6, Kreuzstrasse 24, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.
+41 79 555 33 88, www.encore-club.com. The guests
at the small Encore are mostly very young, beautiful and
certainly rich. Buying a single king-size bottle of finest
French champagne here blows the limit of a standard
credit card. And a bottle like that is what it takes to really
impress in this venue. But don’t worry, if you stick to beer,
regular guys like us can afford and enjoy a night out here.
Given you like house, electro and partytunes and you’re
not averse to dressing yourself up a little. Q Open Fri &
Sat 23:00 - late.
Gonzo C-1, Langstrasse 135, 8Helvetiaplatz,
www.gonzoclub.ch. If you see people queuing next to a
public phone box on Langstrasse, then queue up too! This
small but very tight rock and pop club (sctrictly no electro
music) really is worth queuing for. You head down some
stairs just next to the building and arrive in a cellar, where a
dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded smoker’s
room waits for some serious rock ‘n roll with you. Gentlemen,
start your engines! Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat
23:00 - late. Admission around 15Sfr, Thu 23:00 - 24:00 free.
Jade D-4, Brandschenkestrasse 25,
8Brandschenkestrasse, tel. +41 44 202 80 02,
www.jade.ch. Opened in 2009 in a building which used to
be a post office, the fashionable Jade draws a young, rich
and beautiful party crowd. Have some cash or a credit card
handy, as the style here is to order the spirits by the bottle.
Girls really do dress up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either
show their muscles or their shirt collar - ideally both. The
music is mainly house, party tunes and electro. On weekdays
the Jade is a restaurant with meat and fish specialities. Q
Open Fri 23: 00 - 04:00, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Admission around
25Sfr, minimum age 21. AK
Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel.
+41 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. The Kaufleuten
club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful
and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to
party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds
(sometimes r’n’b and hip hop). Dress to impress is the motto,
and for some people here looking the part seems to be very
important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.
If you don’t make it past the bouncers into the club, there are
a restaurant and two bars (Pelikan and Hof) in the Kaufleuten
complex as well. There are often concerts before the parties.
Q Open 23:00 - 04:00, Mon 21:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 -
06:00, Sun 22:00 - 02:00. Admission around 25Sfr. AEX
NEW
Stairs Baslerstrasse 50, 8Kappeli, www.stairsclub.ch.
When you are queueing for this club, you will know immediately
why it’s name is stairs. Its location on the roof top of the
Letzipark shopping mall means you have to climb quite a few
to get there. But as a fan of progressive, minimal and techno
sounds, it’s well worth the extra effort - you can expect
some wild clubbing. And with the (almost) never-ending after
hours, the party here seems to go on forever. Q Open Fri
23:00 - 08:00, Sat 23:00 - open end. Often free entry until
01:00/02:00. Enter the club from Hohlstrasse.
Adult entertainment
If you are looking for sins of the flesh, and then
probably you’re male, Zurich offers what you can expect
of a city of its size. In Switzerland prostitution is legal,
so in Zurich you can find everything from strip bars to
brothels. Street prostitution is allowed in certain areas
- for example at Häringstrasse in Niederdorf and in the
northern part of the street Sihlquai next to Limmatplatz.
Broadly speaking you have two options: most of the
strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or cabarets - are
located in the Niederdorf part of the old town or around
Langstrasse west of the main train station. What you can
expect there are expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for a beer)
and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until
they are entirely naked.
Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situated
in the suburbs or just outside the city. In the city
you find such establishments around Häringstrasse
in Niederdorf and around Dienerstrasse in the
Langstrasse district.
As in other places, many prosititutes work because they
have few other income options or, even worse, because
they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly
likely to be victims of human trafficking. In the summer
of 2010, several Zurich pimps received prison sentences
for extreme violence against their prostitutes.
Calypso F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel.
+41 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. The
Calypso in the Niederdorf claims to have the only shower
show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage
with two poles and a huge mirror in the back. Opens early.
Q Open 11:00 - 04:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 04:00. A
Moulin Rouge F-3, Mühlegasse 14, 8Rudolf-Brun-
Brücke, tel. +41 44 262 07 30, www.nightclub
-moulinrouge.ch. Decorated traditionally with red
leather sofas, columns and table lamps, the Moulin Rouge
has been entertaining gentlemen for more than 25 years.
Centrally located. Q A
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian
capital and is in general quite gay-friendly. What better
proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor
in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant gay and lesbian scene was one
of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of
course, some of the gay/lesbian venues are cool places to
hang out even if you’re hetero.
Zurich’s gay and lesbian calendar has several major
events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a
Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called
Zurich Pride Festival since 2010, this is a full week
event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march
through the city. For some this is getting too mainstream,
giving rise to the Off-Pride. In spring the Pink Apple
film festival shows gay and lesbian films from all over
the world and awards a prize to a young director. But
the lesbian and gay scene is also very lively, big events
aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to
relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more
raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. At the moment there
are only two clubs which are gay day in, day out, so most
gay clubbing takes place in other venues. We list some
of the best events, but check out the websites or ask in
some of the bars too.
Cafés, Bars & Hotels
Cranberry F-3, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41
44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Campari is a major
theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous
Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly
order campari soda, but the team will make you most any
other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for
gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional
theme parties. Check out the (mainly German) website for
some useful gay links. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. JA
It doesn’t get boring here: Zurich Pride Festival.
Zurich Pride Festival
Daniel H. C-3, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel.
+41 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Daniel H. is a low-key
star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour
and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed
and heterofriendly. The interior is a tasteful take on the
1970s in brown and orange - yes, this can be an atrocious
colour scheme, but here it works a treat. The Italian style
sandwiches are also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers
on gay parties and events in Zurich, they also sell tickets for
some events. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat
19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon & Sun. NK
zurich.inyourpocket.com
GAY ZURICH
Hotel Goldenes Schwert F-3, Marktgasse 14,
8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 250 70 80, fax +41 44 250 70
89, info@g-hotel.ch, www.gayhotel.ch. The ‘Golden Sword’
is an overtly gay hotel, but that doesn’t mean they rub it in your
face. The very clean, bright rooms come with toilet, bathtub,
safe, desk, minibar and a bath robe. There is also Wi-fi in all
rooms. The gay clubs T&M and AAAH! are in the same building,
so it’s easy getting home. Though there’s no restaurant, you
can have breakfast delivered to your room for 15Sfr. Rooms
in the associated guest house around the corner are 40 to
80Sfr cheaper, toilets there are shared. If you book on the
internet, prices can be slightly lower. Parking in the in-house
garage is 28Sfr a night. Q (5 singles 140 - 170Sfr, 14 doubles
170 - 190Sfr, 3 suites 270 - 380Sfr). JA6LW hhh
Predigerhof F-3, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun
Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch.
The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure
bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order
one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and
choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed
landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff
for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay
here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision
song contest. Ask for the free wireless internet access. Q
Open 14:00 - 02:00.
Clubs & Parties
Rage Wagistrasse 13, 8952 Schlieren, www.rage.ch.
Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works -
darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector c is
fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes.
Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station
or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the
weekend. Q Thu 19:00-01:00, Fri 22:00-04:00, Sat 22:00-
05:00, Sun 17:00-01:00 13-20Sfr. NX
T&M and AAAH! F-3, Marktgasse 14, 8Rathaus, tel.
+ 41 44 266 18 18, www.aaah.ch. Mix grand chandeliers,
cubist-style murals and generous amounts of disco lights
- and you get T&M’s decor. Tasteful or tacky, decide for
yourself. The parties are definitely worth it, and while lesbians
and friends are welcome, this is a decidedly gay club. The
regular programm features r’n’b on Fridays while Saturdays
drift more in direction house and charts. There are also
occasional theme parties and regular drag shows, usually at
22:00. Club AAAH! is in the same building and is a plan B for
any day of the week. Q T&M open Wed - Sat 21:30 - 03:00,
AAAH! open 22:30 - late, Sun - Tue 21:30 - late. T&M: free
entry until 23:00, after that usually around 20Sfr, AAAH!: free
admission on weekdays, otherwise around 25Sfr. If you pay
to enter one, you often get free access to the other club.
Tanzleila K-6, Club Exil, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau,
www.tanzleila.ch. Tanzleila is a women-only dance party,
sounds mixed only by DJanes. It’s not only lesbian, but a
good place if you are. Q Every first Sunday of the month in
Exil club - check website.
Resources
Zürigay online magazine, www .zurigay .ch. Zürigay
is a Zurich-centred gay online community with a certain
amount of English-language content. There’s a chat area,
personals and a small listing of up-coming events. Click
on guide for infos on gay venues. You have to register for
access to some areas, a standard membership is free.
October - November 2012
39

40 ZURICH NORD
The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and
Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zurich Nord. The
districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages
and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they
nowadays host many international companies, the trade
fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and
bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre (even
though it’s close) to have a good night out. Check out our
favourites below:
Restaurants
NEW
Asian Place (Renaissance Zürich Hotel)
Thurgauerstrasse 101, 8Glattpark, tel. +41 44 874
5721, www.asianplace.ch. The umbrella-like lamps on the
ceiling and the wood-cladded walls make for an agreeable
Asian atmosphere here - not to forget the all-Asian and
attentive staff. But the pan-Asian food is more than plain
agreeable: the taster menu we took was bursting with
flavours. Be it the seabrass with the hot chilli and Thai-basil
sauce or the beef with ginger and green onions - it was all
excellent. So as a fan of Asian cuisine, the extra travel to
get here is well worth it (tram N°10 or 11 to Glattpark). It’s
closer than Asia. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat
18:00 - 22:00, Sun closed. A
Kai N-1, Ellen-Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,
tel. +41 43 538 42 47, www.kaibar.ch. Situated close
to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar
with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor
belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or
uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on the other side
to make your favourite creation. There are tables as well and
The very best of
Chinese, Japanese
and Thai cuisines.
SPECIALS
Thursdays Asian rea u et
Saturdays Sushi Sashii u et
Renaissance Zurich Hotel
Thurgauerstrasse 101
1 richa par
Tra Stop a par 10, 11 1
www.asianplace.ch
eserva ons 1 1
a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles, meat...
Saturday night there is all you can eat sushi for 59Sfr - book
seats in advance. QOpen 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00,
Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Kitchen open until 22:00
(22 - 34Sfr). AB
Le Muh (Swissôtel) O-2, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 317 33 91, www.lemuh.ch. Since
the complete make over in 2011 the setting here is modern
and really enjoyable, somewhere between business and
casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere
the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a
modern take on Swiss and international dishes. The menu
changes daily and most ingredients are sourced locally.
Neither the prime burger nor the tartar gave us any reason
whatsoever to complain. There are also vegetarian and even
vegan options. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00, breakfast: 06:30 -
10:30. (28 - 52Sfr). AB
Rolli’s Steakhouse O-2, Schaffhauserstrasse
352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 28 80,
www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. A very popular steak house: if you
are a meat lover, this is the place to go - beef pork, lamb, they
have it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks
are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself.
Which also means there is no one else to blame if your steak
is overdone. Steaks come with fries and three homemade
sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who
needs pasta if there’s meat? QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed
Sun. Kitchen open 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 55Sfr). AB
Ziegelhütte Hüttenkopfstrasse 70, tel. +41 44 322
40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. At the forest’s
edge in Schwamendingen lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country
inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise
surprise - good, rustic dishes like älplermagronen (maccaroni
and potatoes with cream and ham), schnitzel and risotto.
Apart from the restaurant there is a huge beer garden (with
meat from the barbecue) and lots of atmosphere, which
makes it popular with hikers, day trippers, regulars and
urbanistas alike. You can feel that they like what they do here.
Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz,
from there it’s an easy 8-minute walk. Or hike there through
the forest in little more than 30 minutes, starting at the zoo.
Q Open 09:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 09:30 - 24:00, Mon closed.
Occasional concerts in the hall.
Nightlife
Jaime El Barco N-1, Otto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. The
Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich
Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini
for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the
cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard
day of walking or working. There is table football and
darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.
QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun.
Oxa O-1, Andreasstrasse 70, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon /
Leutschenbach, tel. +41 44 311 60 33, www.oxa.com.
The Oxa has been up for more than 20 years now. And,
it’s still one of the city’s finest locations for house, trance
and minimal. Fans of this music travel a long way to
come here. And they can stay long: the Oxa is well known
for after-hour parties, closing usually only on Sunday
towards midday. Q Sat 23:00 - 10:00, occasionally Fri.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand
and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms.
It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries
showing international art. Admission to many places is
free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by
reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr.
Museums are usually closed on Mondays.
Main sights
If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights
represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the
Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it
the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and
Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches.
Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely
spot today, while the central police station is another
unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there.
Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by
Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not
man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak.
Fraumünster E-4, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus.
Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the
magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created
by French artist Marc Chagall or the windows by Augusto
Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating
from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster,
which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the
Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in
Zurich. Women came on harder times in the 16th century. The
little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster was used
to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide
hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due.
No visiting during Sunday services. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
St. Peter’s church, when the patron saint is being friendly.
www.juanrubiano.com
Giacometti murals E-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3,
8Bahnhofquai/HB. In the entrance hall to the city’s police
headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s magnificent murals
(1923 - 1925) adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. Opening
hours are quite short.QOpen 9:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00.
Admission free, ID required.
Grossmünster F-4, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus.
The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster
are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view
over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps
(4/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00,
zurich.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
Sun 12:30 - 17:00, closing time Nov - Feb 16:30). According
to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were
beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked
up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads
with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was
passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in
honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the
Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by
the windows. Recently deceased German artist Sigmar Polke
finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, some made
of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with museum on
the Reformation are also accessible.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00
(Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00).
Lake Zurich
The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk
along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich, whatever the
season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along
the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred
metres a park with trees and a lawn fills the expanse
between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese,
also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is
just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing
sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing
you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside
restaurants and a small casino and later still to the railway
station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or
train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is
a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at
the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge
port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the
Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field
where many cultural events take place. If you go just a
little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the
offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik, red factory, marked
by the red brick factory chimney.
Lake Zurich Cruises (Lake Zurich Navigation
Company ZSG) E-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz,
tel. +41 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. The Lake Zurich
Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and
the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’
uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-
Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-Zürichhorn are included in
any public transport ticket covering zone ten. If that’s not
enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. Until
October 21 there are four different ones: the longest
lasts four hours taking you all the way to Rapperswil at
the other end of the lake and back, the shortest is 90
minutes. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close
to Bellevue several times a day. After October 21 there are
fewer cruises a day. Tickets and timetables are available at
the port.QTickets for roundtrips 8.20 - 24Sfr, children half
the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards.
www.juanrubiano.com
October - November 2012
41

42 WHAT TO SEE
Zurich in 48 hours
You’re in town for only two days? Too short, of course!
But here is our Zurich-in-48-hours suggestion.
On your first day, start with a stroll through the old town,
an absolute must for every Zurich visitor. Our one-hour
stroll (p. 46) for instance will take you to all the main
sights like the mediaeval Lindenhof Square as well as
the churches St. Peter, Grossmünster and Fraumünster.
On a sunny day, climb up the the tower of Grossmünster
church (p. 41) and enjoy the view over the city. After the
stroll, walk over to Paradeplatz, for a coffee break at café
Sprüngli (p. 33), Zurich’s most famous confectioner. Don’t
forget to try their trademark luxemburgerlis, macaroons
in all kinds of flavours.
Thus fortified, you’re ready for some action before lunch:
take to the lake (p. 41). From Bellevue walk along the
lakeside until you reach the park Chinawiese and maybe
drop into the Chinagarten for an unexpected glimpse
of Chinese culture. To get back to Bellevue, take the
ship (ship stop Casino to Bürkliplatz). There it’s time
for a Zurich-style lunch: have the city’s most famous
bratwurst (veal sausage) at Sternen Grill (p. 32). Now
how about some culture? The Kunsthaus (p. 43) with
its excellent collection of modern art is a good choice.
Feeling excited? Your only dinner in town is coming up!
For hearty Swiss fare like zürcher geschnetzeltes in
a down-to-earth atmosphere, try Rheinfelder Bierhalle
(p. 32) or Federal (Bahnhofplatz 15). If the cheese specialites
fondue or raclette are what you’re after, try Le
Dézaley (p. 28) - or simply take a few minutes to read
through our restaurant chapter and choose something
that suits your taste. For an after-dinner drink, move
over to the vibrant Langstrasse area with its countless
bars: La Catrina (p. 36) or Casablanca (p. 35). You prefer
more class? Try Metropol (p. 35) with cocktails and sushi.
On your second day make sure you get a good breakfast,
because now you’ll have to climb a mountain. Or at least
ride up it. Take the S10 train from the main station to
Uetliberg (on the right), Zurich’s own little mountain. Up on
top, walk to the peak (10 minutes) and climb the lookout
tower for an incredible view towards the Alps and the city.
You can get back the same way or hike down to a halfway
train stop - or let your feet take you all the way down.
In the afternoon a visit of Giacometti’s murals is on the
schedule (p. 41). They are something like Zurich’s secret
main sight, located right in the entrance hall of the police
headquarters. After taking in their warm colours, you
might be ready for a small shopping tour on renowned
Bahnhofstrasse (for shopping see p. 51). Alternatively
relax on a bench in the nearby old botanical garden
- and invent an excuse for your boss, so you can stay
another day.
www.juanrubiano.com
Lindenhof E-3, 8Rathaus. This idyllic square on a little hill
in Zurich’s centre used to be an important place. The Romans
set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here
when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman
tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down
and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat
is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of
chess at the back of the square.
Uetliberg. The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain,
marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western
side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering
around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower
on top bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering
a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps.
The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year
round. There is a train (S 10 from track 1 or 2) from the
main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware
that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day
pass for Zurich, because the Uetliberg is not within the city
zone 10 (buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket
machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute
walk to the peak with the lookout tower (free access) and a
restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak.
Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the
last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top,
both taking about an hour. To follow the Denzlerweg, walk
at first towards the restaurant Kolbenhof (follow the signs).
After that, the path goes into the forest and rises steeply
with lots of wooden stairs - at the end there is even a ladder
and a chain to help you climb the final rock. A bit easier but
The restaurant on Uetliberg, high above Zurich, with views
to Germany and the Alps. Christian Baracchi
also steep is the Laternenpfad leading straight into the
forest after the final stop - it’s illuminated at night. An easier
way is to take the train and get off one stop before the top
at Ringlikon, from where a gently climbing path leads you in
roughly 40 minutes to the lookout point on the Uetliberg.
You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good
shoes and staying on the path.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Museums
Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them
with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones
and the ones we like best. You can find information in
English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.
Ethnographic Museum (Völkerkundemuseum)
D-4, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Rennweg / Selnau, tel.
+41 44 634 90 11, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Need
magic? Then this is the place to go. The treasures of the
Ethnographic Museum include hundreds of implements
for magic or other rituals. The textiles, wood carvings and
pottery come from outside Europe, with one of the main
focuses on Buddhist and Hindu objects from the Indian
subcontinent. The museum, which is pleasantly located in
Zurich’s old botanical gardens also has a large collection
of ethnographic photographs and a specialised library.
Changing exhibitions with explanations and audioguides
sometimes but not always in English. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00,
14:00-17:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Kindercity Chlirietstrasse12, Volkestwil, tel. +41 43
204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. A science city for kids
aged 0 to 12. See page 50.
Kunsthaus G-4, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41
44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Zurich’s major art
museum has an impressive collection with work by many
Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and
the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including
some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international
artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also
please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two
zurich.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
The National Museum, showcasing Swiss national history.
MV
very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small
(see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides
available. Cafe and shop on the ground floor. Q Open 10:00
- 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission for
collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions 22/14.50Sfr, combined
ticket 23.50/15.50.
Titlis – Eternal Snow and Glaciers
We show you the BEST…
Zürich City-Tours Lucerne Excursion Rigi – Queen of the Mountains Pilatus – Golden Roundtrip
and a lot more of beautiful Switzerland!
Information & Bookings:
www.switzerland-tours.ch
info@switzerland-tours.ch
Phone: +41 (0)44 710 50 50
October - November 2012
43

44 WHAT TO SEE
Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co
Artists, scientists, political visionaries - Zurich has been
home to some of the greatest and most original minds of
the last century or two. You can follow their footsteps, see
many of the houses they lived and worked in and the graves
where they are laid to rest. We’ve listed the sites for you,
which also include museums and even a pub!
The genius par excellence, Albert Einstein, studied natural
sciences from 1896 to 1900 at the Polytechnikum, today’s
Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), where he later
became professor before being awarded the Nobel prize
in physics in 1921. Some of the new arrivals fleeing the
First World War had revolutions on their minds. Marxists and
future Russian revolutionaries Vladimir Lenin and his wife
Nadezhda Krupskaya spent a year of their exile in Zurich.
The couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball were to trigger
a revolution right in the middle of Zurich itself: the antieverything
art movement Dada. Both active on stage, they
were forced to leave Germany in 1915 due to their criticism
of the war. Swiss artist and dancer Sophie Täuber was
also part of the Dada circle, but went her own ways. She
began to paint in an abstract geometric style, thus laying
the ground for constructivist art. Another war refugee, Irish
author James Joyce, lived in Zurich from 1915 to 1919,
where he wrote large parts of his modern classic Ulysses
and died in 1941 (photo shows his grave). The furnishings
of the James Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub in Dublin,
mentioned in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst Carl
Gustav Jung worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric asylum
in Zurich from 1905 to 1909. Thomas Mann, author of
epics such as the Buddenbrocks and Nobel prize winner,
also had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955.The
Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about his life.
Sites and addresses
Albert Einstein
Memorial plaque, Unionsstrasse 4, 8 Hottingerplatz
Vladimir Lenin and Nadezhda Krupskaya
Memorial plaque, Spiegelgasse 14, 8 Rathaus
Dada art movement
Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8 Rathaus
Constructivists
Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8 Sihlstrasse
James Joyce
Memorial plaque, Universitätsstrasse 38, 8 Haldenbach
James Joyce Foundation, www.joycefoundation.ch
Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8 Zoo
James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg
Thomas Mann
Thomas-Mann-Archiv, Schönberggasse 15. Open Wed
& Sat 14:00 - 16:00, admission free. 8 Kantonsschule
Museum Rietberg C-7, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum
Rietberg, tel. +41 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. An
internationally recognised collection of art from Asia, Africa,
the Americas and further afield is on show at the Rietberg
Museum, in permanent and temporary exhibitions (see
section Culture & Events). The museum is housed in several
impressive villas and pavillons, all set in Rieterpark, a garden
which is worth a visit in itself.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed &
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 16/12Sfr for
the exhibitions and the permanent collection, 12/10 for the
collection, children under 16 free.
National Museum (Landesmuseum) E-2,
Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218
65 11, www.musee-suisse.ch. It will take you a while to
get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but
hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights,
sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some
bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic
areas: the first section shows the history of migration and
settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual
history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and
the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits
explanations in English are available. In the west wing of the
museum the exhibition Swiss Furniture and Interiors shows
11 period rooms, among them for example a living room from
the mediaeval Castle Wiggen. The armour tower displays
arms of national and international importance. Besides
that there are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see
Culture & Events section of this guide). The courtyard of the
fairy-tale castle the museum is housed in is a nice place for
a drink. English-language guided tour through the permanent
collection every Tue at 11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 10/8Sfr.
NEW
Shedhalle Seestrasse 395, 8Rote Fabrik, tel. +41 44
481 59 50, www.shedhalle.ch. Shedhalle defines itself
as a ’cultural think tank’ and shows visual art which is often
provocative and political, engaging with controversial and
neglected subjects. Recent exhibitions included The F-Word,
in which four artists grappled with what feminism could mean
today or Im/Possible Community, which asked questions
about individualism, migration and what makes consensus or
collective action possible. Shedhalle breaks with traditional
forms, both in the art shown and with the institution of joint
curatorship practiced since 1994. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00,
Sat & Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 5/3Sfr.
Gardens & Parks
NEW
Hardau Park Badenerstrasse, 8Albisriederstrasse.
The Hardau park is one of Zurich’s newest parks, in the
Hardau district well to the west of Langstrasse, an area with
cheaper apartment blocks and a large immigrant population.
The highlight of this multifunctional park is the huge white
y-shaped sculpture by Sisley Xhafa. Does it scream ‘why’? Is
it a catapult? Yes, but it’s also a giant toy, a swing open for
use by the parks visitors, which glows in different colours when
used. Xhafa, a Kosovar living in New York, picks up on serious
subjects: resistance, conflict, despair, subjects the immigrant
knows particularly well. And who isn’t an immigrant nowadays?
Zurich Zoo J-1, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel.
+41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Zurich Zoo is located on
the Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological
garden which was opened in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest
hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National park in
Madagascar on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and
walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled,
probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch right next to you.
But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since
1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditionalstyle
enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the
animals’ needs, e.g. an Indian dry forest for the lions. Q Open
09:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 09:00 - 17:00). Masoala hall opens
at 10:00. Admission 22/16 (16 - 25 years)/11Sfr.
Churches
See Main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the
churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.
Zurich’s Romanesque landmark, the Grossmünster.
Zurich Tourism (MB)
St. Peter E-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. St.
Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four
sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter
of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the
biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was
buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen
on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church
was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from
a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church
in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after
the Reformation. Don’t miss the unfortunately partly faded
mediaeval murals in the choir. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Sightseeing tours
Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour E-1, Bus Terminal
Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. +41 44 710 50 50,
www.switzerland-tours.ch. A city tour including a short
stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn
rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area Zürichberg.
The most exciting Swiss Family-Center
Play with science (from babies to adults)
The ‘factory‘ (chocolate, bread, cooking, cars, creative)
Outdoor area with driving school
Themed restaurant and Edustore
From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year
Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch
zurich.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
In little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse
and the financial district, the old guild houses along
Limmatquai and the universities. There is a live commentary
in English and German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian,
Chinese and Japanese available. Q Starts daily 13:00 at the
bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station. Tickets
available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.
Tickets 34/17Sfr.
Ghost Walk of Zurich E-4, Paradeplatz, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. +41 44 941 45 65, www.ghostwalk.ch. This tour
is not for the faint-hearted: Dan Dent will tell you all about
Zurich’s Ghosts on a walk through the old town - in English
only. Listen to this great entertainer and get to know the
Schipfe Poltergeist or the ghost of Zurich’s first mayor,
Rudolf Brun. QEvery Thu & Fri at 20:00 at Paradeplatz.
Meeting point is next to the fountain. No need to book, just
show up. 15/10Sfr.
Stories of the Old Town - Guided walk E-2, Tourist
Office Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41
44 215 40 88, www.zuerich.com. A professional guide
will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of
Zurich. Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes
from its past in English and German. Good choice if you
really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t
go. For other walks ask at the tourist information at the
main station. Reservation by phone recommended. Q
Starts at the tourist office at the main railway station. Daily
3pm, additional Sat/Sun 11am. From Nov 1 only Wed, Sun
11:00 and Sat 11:00 & 15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount
with Zurich Card.
Markets
Flea Market Kanzlei C-3, Kanzleistrasse 56,
8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. This is
probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up
to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here
every Saturday, professional traders as well as people
who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.
Definitely worth a visit even if you’re not really looking
for anything. Q Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
Rosenhofmarkt F-3, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus,
www.rosenhof.ch. Incense sticks, trinkets and hippiestyle
clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at
the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of
the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery
and pottery. There is also food from aurond the world. Q
March - September Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Factory
Reservation
043 204 30 60
October - November 2012
45

46 OLD-TOWN STROLL
Stroll through the old town (1hr)
Subtle shades in the evening sun on Fortunagasse.
zuerichfoto.ch
Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River
Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads
upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set
off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, Rudolf-
Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse
or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the
main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just
by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the
metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost
touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled
street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and
boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work
project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the
left.
Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see
page 43), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left
into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of
Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here
and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age.
Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who
are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess.
Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down
Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which
mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.
Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page
45), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most
peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, one of the
alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the
second bridge, Rathausbrücke, also known as the
vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held
here on Saturdays.
On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town
hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left, a good
place for an outdoor coffee if the weather is friendly. Our
rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines
on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find, by the
way, one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right at the
top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway
of pedestrian Niederdorf (see page 11), the other part of the
old town. The cultural references come hard and fast now.
On the right is Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada
movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse
the bourgeoisie in 1916.
A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is
Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at
least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee
roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your
nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass
the Bodega Española on your right, that is if you don’t drop
in for a beer and a plate of tapas. Here one of the few Swiss
authors of world renown, Max Frisch, met with other writers in
the 1940s to 1960s.
A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque
- style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster with
it’s double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires
added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the
third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful
Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. If you trace
a line between the two münsters, the Wasserkirche or water
church comes to lie in the middle, completing the holy trinity.
Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to
the Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the
river and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster (see
page 42) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by
Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s
old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other
major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes walk
further along the river.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
If you have some more time on your hands, you might
want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a
day. We’ve put together a selection of easily reachable
outdoor destinations, cultural sites and thermal baths. Be
it for recreation or for some fun with your kids - we’re sure
you will find something suitable.
Culture & Heritage
Pumpkin it up! Pumpkin art at Jucker Farm. PD
NEW
Bruno Weber’s Skulpturenpark (sculpture park)
Zur Weinrebe, Dietikon, tel. + 41 44 740 02 71,
www.bruno-weber.com. Architect and artist Bruno Weber’s
(1931 - 2011) passion were huge concrete sculptures: from
1962 onwards he worked constantly on his sculpture garden
around his home in Dietikon, just outside Zurich. The park
features countless of his sculptures - mythical creatures,
animal-like beings, mostly colourful and some of them
even inhabitable. The highlights are a water garden with a
winged dog more than 100 metres long and Weber’s fairytale
castle like home - definitely a memorable experience. Get
to Dietikon with the S3 or S9 train (duration 14 min). From
there follow the sculpture path, there are signs or just follow
the sculptures (30 minutes). You can also take Bus 306
to terminus (Stadthalle), from there follow the sculptures
for some minutes. Q Open Wed 13:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun
11:00 - 18:00, Nov - March: Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission
12/10/8Sfr.
Glassblowing Factory - Glasi Hergiswil Seestrasse
12, Hergiswil, tel. +41 41 632 32 32, www.glasi.ch. The
Glasi in Hergiswil is not just a museum: first and foremost it’s
a working glass factory where craftsmen blow glass objects
such as vases, wine glasses or christmas tree decorations.
You can watch the glassblowers at work and you can blow
your own glass ball under supervision. Different exhibitions
and a museum show the history of the factory, the different
physical properties of glass, like singing glass and period
glass products. There is also a glass maze which is quite
a challenge to navigate - dimly lit with coloured lights, the
reflections and transparencies keep you on your toes. You
can buy a large range of handmade glass products at the
Glasi. To get there take a train to Luzern (Lucerne) from
Zurich main train station (dep. 04 and 35 past the hour) and
change there to the train to Hergiswil (1h 15’) or the ship
(takes longer), then it’s just five minutes walk from the railway
station or the jetty. The SBB has reduced offers. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission free
except for the museum (7Sfr) and to the glass maze (5Sfr).
Making your own glass ball costs 15Sfr.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN
Pumpkin exhibition (Jucker Farm Art)
Dorfstrasse 23, Seegräben, tel. +41 44 934 34 84,
www.juckerfarmart.ch. They really take pumpkins
seriously here. There are dozens of sculptures showing
olympic sports - yes, made of pumpkins - and then there
are 500 (!) varieties of pumpkins to admire and buy, if
you like. Of course there is a restaurant which serves all
kinds of pumpkin dishes. You and your kids can also carve
pumpkins, tools are provided. An impressive and slightly
quirky destination which many children love. A little walk takes
you to pretty lake Pfäffikon just next to the farm. Q Open
until November 4, 09:00 - 18:00, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
To get there, take the S14 train (x.12 and x.42) in direction
of Hinwil, get off at Aathal. From there it’s a 20 minute walk.
Until the end of October, there is a shuttle bus to the farm
Wed, Sat & Sun afternoon.
Technorama - Swiss Science Centre
Technoramastrasse 1, Winterthur, tel. +41 52 244
08 44, www.technorama.ch. In the Technorama science
centre the usual museum slogan ‘Do not touch’ is replaced
by ‘Try it!’ - your participation is not only invited but expected.
And it’s not just pressing buttons - what you decide actually
alters the results of the displayed experiments. These
experiments are designed to help visitors understand natural
phenomena and technology. More than 500 exhibits on three
floors and 6,500m2 await to be explored. The Technorama is
divided into twelve sections: automation, lights and visions,
magnetism, mathemagics and mechanics - to name a few.
Most of the exhibits are not only explained in German, but
English, French and Italian too. Great for children, but for
Mum and Dad as well. To get there take a train to Winterthur
from Zurich main train station (eight per hour), then take bus
N°5 to Technorama. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 25/21/14Sfr.
HAVE FUN AND RELAX!
Show this voucher at the entrance and
20% discount
on the regular Alpamare admission fees.
Offer valid on weekdays until December 23rd 2012.
Incl. maximum three accompanying persons.
Offer is not valid with other discounts or special offers.
Cobra-Code: ZRH
The biggest fun and
waterpark in Europe!
www.alpamare.ch
October - November 2012
47

48
DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN
Thermal baths & Waterparks
Alpamare Gwattstrasse 12, Pfäffikon SZ, tel. +41
55 415 15 15, www.alpamare.ch. Alpamare is the
biggest covered waterpark in Europe, just 45 minutes
by train from Zurich. There are ten slides with a length of
more than 1,500 metres and different levels of difficulty,
a wave pool, a river-like pool and a iodine brine bath with
massage jets. Alpamare will definitely brighten up a rainy
day, not just for kids. Up to five connections per hour
take you from Zurich to Pfäffikon SZ (SZ means in canton
Schwyz). From there, take bus No 195 to the Seedamm-
Center (no service on Sundays) or walk there in 15
minutes. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A four-hour stay is 39/31.50Sfr. On
weekends a surcharge of 3Sfr applies. Get a 20% discount
with the voucher in this guide (not valid on weekends).
Thermalbad & Spa Zürich C-5,
Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse,
www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Zurich’s first thermal bath
is located in the buildings that once were home to the
brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water
that was sold as Aqui, Zurich’s own mineral water. There
are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars
as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year,
with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides
whirlpools, massage jets and relaxing zones there is a
Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a
peeling niche or a herbal steam for the complete release
of your body (extra fee applies). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 32/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free.
Thermalbad Zurzach Dr. Martin Erb Strasse, Bad
Zurzach, tel. +41 56 265 28 28, www.badzurzach.info.
Enjoy the warm water of the thermal spring in Bad
Zurzach (when it reaches the surface it’s 39.5°C) in
four pools with different temperatures and a surface
of more than 1,200m2. Muscle-loosening massage
jets, a river-like stream pool with a waterfall and in the
evening one pool is lit by special LED-lights. The warm
mineralized water is said to boost your blood circulation
and to be good against rheumatism. The journey to Bad
Zurzach from Zurich takes 50 minutes by train (twice
an hour, change train in Baden). From the station in
Bad Zurzach there is a free bus to the baths. Q Open
07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:30.
Admission 17.80/10/5.50Sfr.
Outdoor destinations & tours
Hörnli - hiking and downhill scooters Hörnli, Steg,
www.berggasthaus-hoernli.ch. With a height of 1133
metres a.s.l. the Hörnli is the highest mountain in the canton
of Zurich. It’s perfect for a short hike through forests and
grassland and an easy peak even if you are not much into
mountains. Up on the Hörnli you have a view over the hills of
Zürich and towards the eastern Alps. Take for example a train
to Steg and hike to the top in around 1.5 h. On the peak there is
a restaurant where you can rent a kick scooter to ride downhill
back to the train station (20/15Sfr). Q Tuesday closed. To
get to Steg, take the S15 train to Rüti (departure x.40), there
change to the S26 (destination Winterthur). Duration: 51
minutes. Call +41 55 245 12 02 to prebook scooters.
NEW
Kerenzerberg - hiking and downhill scooters
Talalpstrasse 15, Filzbach, tel. +41 55 614 16 16,
www.sportbahnen-kerenzerberg.ch. This is a perfect
destination for some autumn walking and hiking not too far
from Zurich. From Filzbach take a ride with the chairlift to the
Habergschwänd mountain station (1280 meters asl). There
you can either just take a short walk, enjoy the seasonal
colours of the trees and the views and have lunch in the
restaurant or set off for some real hiking, for example up to
peak Nüenchamm (1904 meters asl, up and down 3.5 hours,
trekking shoes needed). To get back to the valley there is
a far cooler way than the chairlift - rent a scooter and ride
the 7.5 kilometers down the asphalt road. It’s real fun, no
kidding! There are many more hiking and walking options,
including the lovely mountain lake Talalpsee. Take a train in
direction of Linthal, get off at Näfels-Mollis. There take a bus
in direction of Obstalden, get off at Filzbach Post (duration all
in all 75 minutes). Q Chairlift 9.50/8Sfr one way, scooter
14/12Sfr per ride. Chairlift runs until the end of October
09:00 - 16:30, Nov closed.
The majestic Churfirsten mountains in Toggenburg valley.
PD
Mount Chäserrugg - Toggenburg Toggenburg
Bergbahnen AG, Unterwasser, tel. +41 71 998 68 14,
www.top-of-toggenburg.ch. The Toggenburg, a beautiful
valley in the canton of St. Gallen, is a nice destination for a
daytrip to the foothills of the Alps - and hills get pretty high
here. Public transport gets you from Zurich to Unterwasser
(change to a bus in Buchs SG), from where you have access
to the cable car to Iltios, and mount Chäserrugg (2262 m
a.s.l.). At the top there is a restaurant and a panorama trail
with stunning views towards Lake Walensee and the Grison
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Alps. If skies are clear you can see as many as six different
countries! If you are fit enough you can also walk up here
from the valley - generally there are many hiking options for
all levels of fitness. There are two playgrounds for kids (at
Chäserrugg and at Iltios) which makes this a good destination
for families. Q Runs daily until October 21, 08:30 - 17:00.
After that until November 1 only if the weather is good. Return
cable car ticket to Chäserrugg 48/24Sfr.
Mount Säntis overlooking his lower colleagues. PD
Schilthorn - Piz Gloria Schilthornbahn AG, Mürren,
tel. +41 33 856 21 41, www.schilthorn.ch. On the
Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an
exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity
of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather
permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz Gloria
restaurant which turns full circle in about 55 minutes. The
station was the setting for the 1968 James Bond film On
Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Getting up there is quite an
exciting adventure: from Stechelberg four sections of cable
cars take you up to the peak in just over 30 minutes. It is
possible to hike all the way up, but only for really experienced
hikers. But the region around Mürren offers many enjoyable
hiking and walking opportunities for less accomplished hikers
too. From Zurich, take a train to Interlaken (change in Bern), at
Interlaken change to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From there a
bus takes you to Stechelberg valley station (approx. 3 hours
all in all). Maybe combine the trip with a stay in Mürren or
the Interlaken region! Q Cable car runs daily until November
11, first ascent 07:25, last descent 18:03. Return fare from
Stechelberg 94.80/47.40Sfr.
Stanserhorn Stansstaderstrasse 19, 6370 Stans,
tel. +41 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. The
Stanserhorn is an easy accessible mountain with
spectacular views of central Switzerland’s mountains and
lakes. You can ride up with a funicular, and the second
section with the world’s first cablecar with an open upper
deck, just opened this June. The cabin has a rooftoop with
room for up to 30 people to stand and enjoy the ride under
the open sky. At the summit there’s a revolving retaurant
and a panorama trail. The region also offers plenty of
hiking options - for example you can walk to the top from
Stans in about four hours. Getting to Stans from Zurich
by train takes around 75 minutes. Change train in Luzern
(destination Engelberg or Dallenwil). Q Runs daily until
November 18, 08:15 - 16:45, Fri & Sat until 22:15. Return
ticket 68/34/17Sfr.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN
Lookouts & Walks
Felsenegg lookout Zelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel. +41
44 710 73 30, www.laf.ch. This short trip takes you up to
one of the nicest lookout points in the Zurich area: Felsenegg.
Getting up there is fairly easy, with the only aerial cable car
operating in the canton of Zurich. First, take the S4 train in
direction Langnau-Gattikon and get off after 15 minutes
in Adliswil. From there it’s a well sign-posted 10-minute
walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car, where the
cabin leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg. Once you are
up there, refresh yourself in the restaurant and of course
take in the view of the city, the lake and the Alps. There are
also many possibilities for a walk: for example follow the
panorama trail to Uetliberg, from where the S10 train will
get you back to Zurich city - nice roundtrip on an autumn
day. Q From Zurich a ticket for zones 10, 50, 55 is needed.
Tickets valid for two hours: 8.20/4.10Sfr. Just for the cable
car: 4.10/2.90Sfr. For the round trip the Albis daypass is your
best option: 16.40/8.20Sfr. Trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg
is included with the Zurich Card.
Pfannenstiel Lookout Pfannenstiel, Meilen,
www.pfannenstiel.ch. Pfannenstiel is the name of the hill
range on the north-eastern shore of Lake Zurich. It’s a nice
recreation area for walks and offers views over Lake Zurich
and towards the Alps. On the Hochwacht there is a lookout
tower you can climb up for even better views. There are many
marked paths and possibilities for long and short hikes. As it
only takes 30 minutes to get there, it’s perfect for a couple
of hours in the outdoors. There are also two restaurants if
hunger should happen to strike. Q To get there, take the S7
train in direction Rapperswil (x.42). At Meilen change to Bus
922 in direction Vorderer Pfannenstiel. Duration: 32 minutes.
October - November 2012
49

50 ZURICH FOR KIDS
Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how
to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals
may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to
do with children in Zurich. Some venues are described in
more detail in other chapters, follow the references.
Museums & Zoos
If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff, try
these suggestions.
Zurich Zoo, the classic destination: the Masoala
Rainforest is warm even on a chilly day, see p. 44.
Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the
University of Zurich G-3, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4,
8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. +41 44 634 38 38,
www.zm.uzh.ch. A giant sloth waits just beyond the
entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction,
so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are
displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos,
platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists
in the animal kingdom. Unfortunately all texts are in
German, but we have found that isn’t a problem for
children. A fascinating cabinet of wonders.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed.
Admission free.
Parks & Sports
The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 42,
E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden
(G-7). The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community
centres of the city also have good playgrounds.
WELCOME TO THE MOST
FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS
FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881.
Bahnhofstrasse Spielsachen, 62, die 8001 Träume Zürich, versüssen. www.fcw.ch
Having fun while learning for life: Kindercity. PD
Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres), tel.
+41 43 300 60 00, www.gz-zh.ch. The 17 community
centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by
the city. They usually have a playground for kids and a little
café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even have
some farm animals to watch and stroke. E.g. GZ Wipkingen
(at the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, tel. +41 44 276 82 80.
See www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open
10:00 - 18:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 on the weekend.
Kindercity Chlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43
204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Kindercity is a science
city for children aged 1 to 12, much more hands-on than
a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a
museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated
to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern
communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to
let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a
café, open-air play areas, magic trains - and much more.
From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster),
change at Schwerzenbach to bus N° 725, get off at Volkiland,
Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes). Q Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.
Daypass (cinema and knowlegde lanes) 27.50Sfr. activities
can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 14.50Sfr
(17.50 adults).
Restaurants
Pizza Pasta Ciao! I-5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz,
tel. +41 43 499 07 12, www.pizzapastaciao.ch. This
restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter. So
you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the
espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too. The menu
features everything that comes to your mind when you think
Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to meat like filetto di
manzo (beef filet). Needless to say the place is popular with
families - and not just Italian ones. Q Open 10:30 - 14:00,
18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00.
Toy shops
Franz Carl Weber E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62,
8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch.
Never-ending toy shop on four floors with virtually anything
you might be looking for, includes books and a pizzeria.
Q Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Pastorini E-4, Weinplatz 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44
824 33 44, www.pastorini.ch. Great toy shop with
high quality, sensible toys. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Mon
13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even
if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially
Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as
one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping
streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, the
area around Langstrasse is a good spot - check out our
special. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t
match other European countries where huge centres
are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing.
The Sihlcity Shopping Centre, an easily reachable
mall opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative
development - without being a giant. The malls and
best shopping areas of the city are listed here together
with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are
closed on Sundays except at the railway stations.
Looking out for the next bargain on Bahnhofstrasse. AM
The main shopping areas are:
Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the
main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian
area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s
world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches
and designer boutiques as well as the big department
stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years
not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign
companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse
displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say
Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a
walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping
fan. Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no
less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden.
Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old
town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining
and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding
Opening hours
Most shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open
Mon to Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Smaller shops including
jewellers and shops outside the centre often close
at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On
Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or
18:00, departement stores until 20:00). On Sundays all
shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations).
Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
zurich.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai
and Niederdorf streets - both pedestrian areas - you will
find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy
shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well
worth a peek.
Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse
and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to
miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example
with its international clothing brands and boutiques
or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores,
a genuine Zurich toys shop as well as cutlery and
souvenir shops.
Books & Music
NEW
16tons B-2, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel.
+41 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. With tons of new
and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae,
soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s
first addresses for vinyl lovers. It ‘s also well worth a visit if
you’re hunting for some cool second-hand clothes or small
pieces of vintage furniture. Q Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00
- 17:00, Sun closed.
Orell Füssli - The Bookshop E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 70,
8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 04 44, www.books.ch.
Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over 40,000
fictional and non-fictional books, magazines, audio books
and DVDs on three floors - and all in English. There is a
strong children‘s section where Dave, the storyteller, reads
every first Saturday of the month. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
English
books
and more
pay us a visit
to fi nd out
Orell Füssli The Bookshop
Bahnhofstrasse 70
8001 Zürich
October - November 2012
51

52 SHOPPING
Departement stores
Globus E-2/3, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse
/ Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 226 60 60, www.globus.ch.
The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on
Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for
your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit,
Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches,
jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling
through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant
on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just next to the
entrance towards Bahnhofstrasse. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Jelmoli E-3, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44
220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. They call themselves the
house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss,
DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some
of the fashion brands you can find at the Jelmoli department
store. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household
goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not
to forget the Gourmet Factory in the basement - a big grocery
store for gastronomes with fine food from Switzerland and
around the world. Plus, Zurich’s biggest store of the Spanish
label Zara is situated in the Jelmoli building. QOpen 09:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Shopping around Langstrasse
Shopping in Zurich is not just Bahnhofstrasse and the
old town. There are other districts which are well worth
a visit for shoppers - especially if you are hunting for
some cool clothes and accessories and would like a
break from the big global brands. The area around the
southern end of Langstrasse in district n°4 (aka Chreis
Cheib) definitely is such an area. Every few steps you
come across another enticing little shop on Langstrasse
or in the side streets. Generally it’s less glittery and
glamourous here than on Bahnhofstrasse, but much
more urban and cosmopolitan with many young, Swiss
labels. We list some of our favourites below.
Andrea Hinnen C-3, Rotwandstrasse 53,
8Stauffacher, tel. +41 44 240 02 12, www.
aquaboot.com. Andrea Hinnen’s textile design shop
features her collection of bright and witty print designs,
atypically colourful for Zurich. Balloons, pin-up girls and
crocodiles seem to be some of her more favoured motifs
for the textiles.QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00,
closed Sun & Mon.
be code C-3, Bäckerstrasse 9, 8Stauffacher, tel.
+41 43 243 93 27, www.becode.ch. be code is
situated just next to Stauffacher and offers a big choice
of young and modern fashion made of exquisite materials
in big sizes (34 - 54).QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:30
- 17:00, Sun closed.
Saus und Braus - shop for design B-3,
Ankerstrasse 14, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. +41 44
242 23 11, www.sausbraus.ch. Saus und Braus (in
the lap of luxury) is like a little department store for
more than 70 mostly Swiss design labels including shop
owner Baba Rüegg’s very own Saus & Braus dresses.
You can find fashion, bags, accessories, jewellery, lamps
and some interior design.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun & Mon.
Fashion
Bernie’s E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 65, 8Rennweg, tel.
+41 44 211 91 91, www.bernies.ch. Bernie’s sells mostly
stylish clothing with Italian elegance for men and women - be
it by luxury brands like Moschino or a bit more casual stuff.
They have definitely a cool selection, but not on the cheap
side. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
Jap F-4, Weite Gasse 7, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 261
66 26. Owner Margrit Brunswick sets the focus of her store
on rather vanguard designer clothing and accessories for
women. She specialises in Japanese designers - but not only.
Even as a fashion aficionado you will most probably find some
nice pieces by labels you haven’t heard of before. Q Open
12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Sun closed.
What are you looking for, sir? Bernie’s on Bahnhofstrasse.
PD
The North Face Store D-3, Sihlstrasse
95, 8 Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 44 210 07 17,
www.thenorthface.com. The new Zurich flagship store
of the American outdoor company The North Face naturally
features everything the brand has become famous for:
outerwear, fleeces, shirts and footwear as well as equipment
such as backpacks, tents and sleeping bags. It all definitely
suits hikers and mountaineers but is also very chic for your
hike through the urban jungle. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
Trois Pommes E-4, Storchengasse 6, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. +41 44 211 06 21, www.troispommes.ch. The
boutique Trois Pommes offers a selection of fashion pieces
from a dozen or so exquisite brands like Bluemarin, Marni,
Lanvin, Thomas Maier and Adam Jones. The Trois Pommes
empire encompasses more shops on the same street: the
Trois Pommes Designer store (Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs,
Giambattista Valli), a Gucci store and a shoe gallery.QOpen
09:30 - 18:45, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Malls & Shopping centres
Einkaufszentrum Glatt Neue Winterthurerstrasse 99,
Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. +41 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.
ch. This is Switzerland’s biggest shopping mall: find almost
100 shops on 43’000m². Besides two departement stores, all
kinds of fashion, nine restaurants and everything for your kids,
there are also branches of Zurich’s famous watch stores and
jewellers. It’s located just outside the city limits, but it’s easy to
get there: take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from
there tram 12 to the stop Glatt, and you will be in this shopping
heaven in just 20 minutes. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
NEW
Europaallee D-2, Main railway station, 8Hauptbahnhof,
www.europaallee.ch. Europaallee is part of a whole new
neighbourhood just next to the main railway station, and it’s
chock-a-block with shops. Apart from a Coop department
store, the emphasis is on clothes and outdoor activites:
skateboard and streetwear specialist Doodah, Swiss outdoor
clothing label Tom Bergstein, Lola Fred yoga wear and the cycle
shop HappyBike are all there. The bigger stores are Ochsner’s
Lady-Shop and a huge Transa store. Transa has a long track
record as a hiking and travel specialist in Switzerland, selling
everything from raingear to rucksacks.
Im Viadukt K-7/L-6, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg,
www.im-viadukt.ch. More than 30 shops and a market hall for
groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in
the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with
one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy
fashion labels rather than the big luxury brands. Q Closed Sun.
Shoes & Accessories
Bally E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 66, 8Rennweg, www.bally
.com. Bally, the traditional Swiss shoe brand of world renown,
offers their collection on three stories in their own Bally house,
just where Rennweg leaves Bahnhofstrasse. Find elegant
leather shoes and more casual sneakers for both sexes and
pumps and mocassins for fashionable women. QOpen 09:30
- 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
Lutomirsky Schuhe E-2, Löwenstrasse 54,
8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44 221 35 04, www.lutomirsky
-schuhe.ch. Finally a shoe shop with chandeliers! No, really,
this place is very elegant and they sell classical, solid shoes
zurich.inyourpocket.com
Guess
SHOPPING
G uess Zurich
F-3, Marktgasse
12, 8Rathaus, tel.
+41 43 343 95 71,
www .guess .com. Guess
finally opened a flagship
store in Zurich last year -
and yes, it is the biggest
in the country. In the middle of the Niederdorf they
display the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections
on more than 500sqm and over two stories, for both
men and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories
like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume
- the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale.
Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
which aren’t too fancy, be it loafers and laced shoes for men
or pumps, boots and ballerinas for women. The staff know
their stuff and can advise you well. They also have extra
sizes for both sexes.
Souvenirs
Meng Cutlery E-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. +41
44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Meng Cutlery just
off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as
army knives by the famous brands Victorinox and Wenger.
Also on stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more
ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4
(E-4). QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Athelete: Xavier De le Rue, Giulia Monego, Location: Switzerland, Photo: Tero Repo
THE NEW WINTER COLLECTION
THE NORTH FACE® STORE ZURICH - SIHLSTRASSE 95
10 CHF voucher (Not cumulative with other offers, valid until 11/30/2012, 20 CHF min. amount)
October - November 2012
53

54 SHOPPING
Swiss chocolate
Swiss chocolate is of world renown - and yes, you should
take advantage of being here and try some of these sweet
sins. But have you ever wondered why it is the Swiss who
make such delicious chocolate?
Cocoa, the main ingredient of chocolate comes from South
America and was brought to Europe in the early 16th century. But
it wasn’t until the end of the 18th century that Swiss craftsmen
started to process cocoa and to establish small businesses
producing chocolate. In the 19th century some of today’s best
known Swiss chocolate producers (like Suchard, Sprüngli, Lindt,
Callier and Tobler) were established. But it took two leaps of
technology in the 1870s for Swiss chocolate to become a real
success. First Daniel Peter invented milk chocolate. Condensed
milk was the key to success. Then, in 1879, Rodolphe Lindt
invented the mysterious conche. This scraper-mixer makes
solid chocolate smooth and creamy rather than hard and gritty,
as it had been until then. The Lindt conche was a milestone
and has been copied ever since.
In the following decades, the Swiss became very keen on
this creamy chocolate and soon also started exporting
their produce. Today around 175,000 tons of chocolate are
produced in Switzerland per year. And yes, the Swiss are the
world’s greatest chocolate eaters: statistically the Swiss
eat around 12 kilograms a year each. As a comparison a
US-American consumes 5.4kg a year.
In Zurich, the most famous chocolate producer and confectioner
is probably Sprüngli, the original shop with café situated on
Paradeplatz (Bahnhofstrasse 21, see p. 33). Another well-known
Zurich chocolate maker is Lindt & Sprüngli. They were originally
connected to Sprüngli, but split the business at the end of the
19th century. Its factory is just outside Zurich and you can buy
Lindt chocolate in literally every grocery store.
Here are a few suggestions besides Sprüngli on where to
find chocolate paradise in Zurich:
Confiserie Läderach
Honold La Confiserie E-3, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg,
tel. +41 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Since 1905
Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and
pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake
and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt)
are also well-known. The shop is also a coffee bar with a
balcony on the first floor, so you can enjoy Honold’s sweets
while watching busy shopping on Rennweg. QOpen 07:30
- 18:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Läderach Chocolatier Suisse (at Merkur
Chocolaterie) E-2, Bahnhofstrasse 106,
8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 211 53 72,
www.laederach.ch. The traditional Swiss chocolatier
Läderach sells freshly produced chocolate, filled chocolates
and pralines. You even get an insight into the craft of
confectionery here, as some of the chocolate is actually
produced on site - creating irresistible aromas! There are
30 different kinds on display, in slabs which are broken into
pieces and sold by weight. Chocolates are on offer by piece.
In addition to the Läderach chocolate you can also get all the
Swiss chocolate brands from Lindt to Toblerone. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Teuscher Confiserie E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 46,
8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com.
More than a hundred different flavours of Swiss chocolate,
marzipan, biscuits and the famous champagne truffles
made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional recipe. Q
Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00.
Truffe E-4, Schlüsselgasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41
43 539 18 85, www.truffe-zurich.ch. In the middle of the
old town, but a little hidden in a side alley, this chocolate
shop is dedicated to small Swiss and yes, Italian chocolate
confectioneries. Some are quite traditional, some come
with rather unusual flavours. You can usually try some of
these sweet sins before you buy. Q Open 11:00 - 18:30,
Sat 11:00 - 17:00, closed Sun & Mon.
Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur G-5,
Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 43 288
04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. This
confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his first Zurich
shop is an enrichment for the lovers of sweets in town.
Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate candies - they have it
all. And much more. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -
17:00. Sun closed.
at Läderach Chocolaterie, Bahnhofstrasse 106, Zurich
and at Chocolaterie ShopVille RailCity Zurich; Shopping Center Glatt, Wallisellen
Finest Swiss
chocolate
at its best
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Schweizer Heimatwerk E-3, Uraniastrasse 1,
8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55,
www.heimatwerk.ch. Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high
quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue
sets all with a Swiss twist to the design. QOpen 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Teddy’s Souvenir-Shop F-4, Limmatquai
34, 8 Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 22 89,
www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Clocks, cowbells, hats,
music boxes, pets and textiles: it’s all waiting for you at
Teddy’s souvenir shop close to Grossmünster - open even
on Sundays. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Swiss design
Mammut E-2, Löwenstrasse 60, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel.
+41 43 233 00 66, www.mammut.ch. The Swiss producer
of trekking and mountaineering equipment Mammut has
a huge flagship store in Zurich. On several stories you can
browse through shoes, backpacks, sleeping bags, climbing
gear and fashionable clothing for outdoors sports and outdoor
use in general. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
Paradis des Innocents E-3, Oetenbachgasse
7, 8 Rennweg, tel. +41 44 262 20 50,
www.paradisdesinnocents.ch. The three Swiss
designers Stefania Samadelli, Simone Klemm and Ursula
Schwaller present their latest collections in their little
paradise: elegant fashion for women, be it for leisure or
business. Q Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,
closed Sun & Mon.
STYLE
zurich.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
Oh, sausages! Yes, and of the best at Pretôt Delikatessen.
PD
Swiss food
Pretôt Delikatessen E-3, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg,
tel. +41 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch. It‘s all
about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling - coming
from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight to the
heart of Zurich. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:30.
Closed Sun.
Tritt-Käse L-6, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt),
8Dammweg, tel. +41 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch.
Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland.
Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy
to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Fri & Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.
PURE STYLE
Welcome to Switzerland’s fi rst
destination for watches and
jewelry with a selection of more
than 50 exclusive brands.
www.christ-swiss.ch
October - November 2012
55

56 WATCHES
Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82
Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1
Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31
Bourquin, Langstrasse 234
Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50
Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31
Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40
Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78
Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1
Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1
Cimier Boutique, Limmatquai 56
Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126
Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28
A. Lange & Söhne
Audemars Piguet
Balmain
Baume & Mercier
Bell & Ross
Beyer
Blancpain
Breguet
Breitling
Bulgari
Cartier
Certina
Charriol
Chopard
Cimier
De Grisogono
Ebel
Eterna
Franck Muller
Girard Perregaux
Hublot
IWC Schaffhausen
Jaquet Droz
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Longines
Louis Erard
Maurice Lacroix
Mondaine
Movado
Omega
Oris
Parmigiani Fleurier
Patek Philippe
Piaget
Quinting
Rado
Raymond Weil
Rolex
Swatch
Swiss Military
TAG Heuer
Tiffany
Tissot
Ulysse Nardin
Urwerk
Victorinox Swiss Army
Vulcain
Wenger
Zenith
Zurich Partime
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Galli, Theaterstrasse 16
Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36
IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61
Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80
La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64
Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33
Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4
Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31
Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 52
Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5
zurich.inyourpocket.com
Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31
Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 94
Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14
Türler A., Paradeplatz
Zett-Meyer, Bahnhofstrasse 37
Zinniker, Buchholzstrasse 3, Zollikon
TACTILE TECHNOLOGY
IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME
1125 CHF Suggested retail price
WATCHES
October - November 2012
57

58 SHOPPING
Art market Watches & Jewellery
Consulates
If you’re looking to buy art - or just take a peek at what
others are buying - Zurich won’t let you down. The city
is arguably the centre of Switzerland’s art market, and
indeed a reference point for the European art market.
Many art auctioneers are located in Zurich - besides the
well-known international houses Sotheby’s (Talstrasse
83, D-3) and Christie’s (Steinwieseplatz, G-4) you’ll find
local houses like Koller (Hardturmstrasse 102), Grisebach
(Bahnhofstrasse 14, E-4) or Germann (Stockerstrasse 38,
D-4), where remarkable pieces change hands regularly.
Art galleries are equally abundant in Zurich and are an
excellent place to see contemporary international and
Swiss art as well as a great deal of exciting work from the
twentieth century. Zurich In Your Pocket has put together
a small selection, including conventional art galleries,
artist-run offspaces and internet galleries.
Art galleries
galerie gmurzynska E-4, Paradeplatz
2, 8 Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 226 70 70,
www.gmurzynska.com. A major gallery specialising in
Russian avantgarde, modern and classic contemporary
art. Recently it showed pop art classics with pieces
by artists such as Andy Warhol and Robert Indiana.
In summer the gallery regularly organises a sculpture
exhibition in the park of the Baur au Lac hotel. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
Galerie Haas D-4, Talstrasse 62a, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. + 41 43 497 20 26, www.galeriehaasag.ch.
German expressionism such as Georg Grosz, classic
modern artists such as Braque as well as Swiss masters
such as Cuno Amiet or Félix Vallotton are all part of this
gallery’s field. Q Open 10:00 - 12:30, 14:00 - 18:00 and
by appointment, Sat & Sun closed.
Karma International G-6, Dufourstrasse
48, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41 43 535 85 91,
www.karmainternational.org. Focusing on
contemporary and conceptual art, Karma shows Swiss
and international artists, and has a reputation for picking
up on the newest developments in the city’s art scene.
Q Open Wed - Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Offspaces
Dienstgebäude A-6, Töpferstrasse 26,
8 Laubegg, www.dienstgebaeude.ch.
Dienstgebäude usually concentrates on artists from
Zurich and Switzerland. One of the exhibitions they made
their name with is The Catch of the Year - 120 pieces by
120 Zurich artists, a kind of selective synopsis of Zurich’s
art scene. Q Open Thu - Sat 12:00 - 18:00.
message salon (Perla Mode) C-2, Langstrasse
84, 8 Helvetiaplatz, www.likeyou.com/
messagesalon. The cosy message salon is located
on Langstrasse, where most salons go about more
sleazy business and shows a very independent selection
of Swiss and international artists. Q Open often in the
evening, see website for programme and opening hours.
Internet galleries
Eastinside, tel. +41 78 683 29 41,
www.eastinside.ch. Online gallery specialized in young
Eastern European art.
Beyer E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. For more than
250 years Beyer has been selling, producing and repairing
watches. They sell top brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex,
Hublot, IWC, Chopard, Baume&Mercier and their very own
brand Beyer. There is also a fine jewellery section. QOpen
09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
The luxury watch store Beyer. PD
Gübelin E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
+41 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Since 1854 Gübelin
have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. In
their Zurich branch you will find their own jewellery lines as
well as many renowned watch brands.QOpen 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
NEW
IWC Boutique E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg,
www.iwc.com. Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC
Schaffhausen has just opened its new very own Zurich
boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches and exclusive
models only available in their flagship stores.QOpen 10:00
- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
Partime Technoparkstrasse 1, 8Technopark, tel. +41
44 445 14 55, www.partime.ch. A Zurich Partime watch
simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the
day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount
of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually
eats into the blue, until the circle is all white at the end of the
day. Find it also at the retailers indicated on page 56.QOpen
10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun closed.
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry
CHRIST Watches
& Jewelry E-3,
Bahnhofstrasse 78,
8 Bahnhofstrasse,
tel. +41 44 212 14 47,
www.christ-swiss.ch. With
more than 80 shops, CHRIST
is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands
like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their
very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as fashion jewels by
Pandora, Esprit Armani etc. Pearls, diamonds and a huge
collection of wedding rings - it’s all there. CHRIST offers
serious consulting in a casual, but stylish atmosphere.
Find sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof
(Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3) and
the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, B-6) as well
as at the airport shopping centre. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Here are the most important consulates you can find in
Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is
the Swiss capital. See www .eda .admin.ch for addresses.
Austria D-7, Seestrasse 161, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41 44
283 27 00, fax +41 44 280 37 65, zuerich-gk@bmeia .gv .at.
France H-5, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse, tel. +41
44 268 85 85, fax +41 44 268 85 00, consulat.france
.zurich@swissonline .ch, www .consulatfrance-zurich .org.
Germany J-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz,
tel. +41 44 201 72 22, fax +41 44 201 72 29, info@
deutscher-honorarkonsul-zh.ch.
Ireland E-5, Claridenstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41
44 289 25 15, fax +41 44 2892550.
Italy D-4, Tödistrasse 67, 8Brandschenkenstrasse, tel.
+41 44 286 61 11, fax +41 44 201 16 11, segreteria
.zurigo@esteri .it, www .ambberna .esteri .it.
Norway F-5, Utoquai 37, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 254
61 39, fax +41 44 254 61 71, www .amb-norwegen .ch.
Russia F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 43
268 80 00, fax +41 43 268 80 08, www .rusconsul .ch.
United Kingdom N-6, Gämsenstrasse 3,
8Röslistrasse, tel. +41 44 383 65 60, fax +41 44
383 65 61, vice-consulate.zurich@britishembassy .ch,
www .ukinswitzerland .fco .gov.uk.
United States of America G-6, Dufourstrasse 101,
8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60, fax +41 43
499 29 61, zurich-ca@state .gov, bern.usembassy.gov.
Welcome to Zurich
zurich.inyourpocket.com
DIRECTORY
Dentists
Swiss Smile D-2, Hauptbahnhof / Shop Ville,
8 Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 300 30 03,
www .swiss-smile .com. Dentist centre in the Shop Ville,
the underground shopping mall at the main train station.
It’s open every day - you can just walk in and wait for
your turn. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
Language schools
Alemania Badenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz, tel.
+41 44 300 33 44, www .alemania .ch. German courses
only, from beginners to proficient speakers.
Bénédict C-2, Militärstrasse 106, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41
44 242 12 60, www .benedict .ch. German courses at any
level, as well as French, Italian and Spanish.
Lost & Found
Lost & Found (VBZ) E-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10,
8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50. All objects
found on public transport and on the ground of the city
of Zurich end up here. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed
Sat & Sun.
Pharmacies
Bahnhof Apotheke E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15,
8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 225 42 42. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00.
Bellevue Apotheke F-5, Theaterstrasse 14,
8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22. Q Open 24hrs.
October - November 2012
59

11
7
Stierenried
Hürstholz
62
39
491
39
Lerchenhalde
25
Witikon
Zentrum
69
46
33
38
Voltastr.
13
Platte
3
15
323
46
304
308
11
3
4
S18
31
Botanischer
Garten
4
78
Bahnhofplatz|HB
307
Bhf. Altstetten
Nord
Löwenplatz
307
54
Vulkanstr.
4
S3 S12
916
Bahnhof Altstetten
912
31
8
2
8
912
916
2
Baslerstr.
Bahnhof
910
95
Selnau
Stockerstr.
Bahnhof
Solidapark
Wiedikon
5
Tunnelstr.
2
Brandschenkestr.Hürlimann-
Bertastr.
platzGoldbrunnen-
Bhf. Enge|Bederstr.
3 Hubertus
platz
Gutstr.
Waffenplatzstr.
Siemens
Talwiesenstr.
Sihlcity
Langgrüt- Im Gut
Nord
str.
Heuried
Giesshübel
Schaufel-
Binz
Sackzelg bergerstr.
Sihlcity
Schulhaus
Saalsporthalle
Altweg
Räffelstr.
Friesenberg
Brunaupark
Brunau
Grubenstr. Binz
Schweighof
Center
Laubegg
Friesenbergstr.
Besenrainstr.
Triemli
Butzenstr.
Uetlihof
FriesenberghaldeStrassen-
Friedhof
32
verkehrsamt
Uetliberg
Verenastr.
Zielweg
Albisgütli
Manegg
S9 S15
Seidelhof
Bristenstr.
445
14
Triemli
Triemlispital
73
444
Kappeli
89
Hegian-
wandweg
200
11 10
9
220
485
Krematorium
Sihlfeld
235
89
Winzerstr. Süd
Hohenklingensteig
Friedhof
Sihlfeld
215| 245
Höfliweg
Im Hagacker
Grünwald
70
350
S10
Chrüzächer
323
89
Hardplatz
67
32 76
5
80
76
32
Hungerbergstr.
Zehntenhausplatz
GüterbahnhofBäckeranlageHelvetiaplatz
WieslergasseKappenbühlweg
Meierhofplatz
Winzerhalde
Schwert
Manesseplatz
Stadt Zürich | Zurich City
Pfingstweidstr.
Bhf. Hardbrücke
7
Stauffacher
66
S2 S8 S21 S24
33
69
Werd
66
32
Sihlpost
Fronwald
Bahnhof
Affoltern
6
S6
40
13
165
11
40
32
6
15
Schweizer
Rück
Enge Hafen
161
Friedhof
Schwandenholz
Staudenbühl
Himmeri
Maillartstr.
Mötteliweg
64
Radiostudio
72
14
4
5
Bellevue
Wollishofen Schiffstation
75
9
Guggachstr.
29
80
Bahnhof
Oerlikon
Milchbuck
ZÜRICHSEE
Seebacherplatz
Bhf. Seebach
NeunbrunnenBollingerweg
Bhf.
Oerlikon
Nord
75
94
11
Hirschwiesenstr.
14
Sternen
Oerlikon
Regensbergbrücke
Bad Allenmoos
Seebach
Salersteig Schörlistr.
Berninaplatz
Leutschenbach
Bhf.
Oerlikon
Ost
9
Messe|Hallenstadion
Dorflinde Herbstweg
Tulpenstr.
Friedackerstr.
Lägernstr.
33
23
Rotbuchstr.
Nordstr.
Kronenstr.
Röslistr.Ottikerstr.
Hadlaubstr.
Goldauerstr.
Seilbahn Rigiblick
Im
Klösterli
Beckenhof Sonnegg-
Vogelsangstr.
Stampfenbachplatzstr.Winkelriedstr.
Spyriplatz
Bethanien
Zoo
Susenbergstr.
Bahnhofquai|HB
Central
Haldenegg HaldenbachHinterbergstr.
Zürichbergstr.
46
Toblerplatz
7
10
31
Polyterrasse
24
Polybahn
Kirche
ETH|
Fluntern
Universitätsspital
Bircher-Benner
751
Waldhaus
Dolder
Bahnhofstr.|HB
Neumarkt
Hofstr.
Titlisstr.
Bergstation
Sihlstr.
Rennweg
Limmatquai
Rudolf-
Brun-Brücke
Kantonsschule
Klosbach
Kunsthaus
Storchen
Paradeplatz
Börsenstr.
Rathaus
Helmhaus
8
Hottingerplatz
Sprecher
str.
Bahnhof
Englisch-
Stadelhofen
viertelstr.
Hölderlinsteig
Hölderlinstr.
Klusplatz
753
9
11
15
747
Bahnhof
Enge
Museum
Rietberg
Brunaustr.
Billoweg
Post Wollishofen
Morgental
Kalchbühlweg
Glaubtenstr.
Bahnhof
Wollishofen
Rentenanstalt
Sukkulentensammlung
Landiwiese
Rote Fabrik
Seerose
Bürkliplatz
Felsenrainstr.
10
11
21
22
70
71
84
Hagenholz
63
54 10
35
30
31
72
73
40
55
32
42
50
33 S8 S14
41
43
34
56 51
80
52
82
83
94
53 81
ZOLLIKON
Tarifzone 10
Fare zone 10
79
16
15 62
61
14
13 24
60
18
63
17
12
23
20
64
Rütihof
Geeringstr.
Heizenholz
Riedhofstr.
Industrie Gaswerk
54
Giblenstr.
Blumenfeldstr.
10 Juchhof
Frankental
Segantinistr. Nord
Werd-
62
hölzli
Segantinistr.
Schützenhaus Schauen-
Höngg
berg
Singlistr.
Bändliweg
Einfangstr.
Winzerstr.
Friedhof
Hönggerberg Lerchen-
Wartau
Michelstr.
rain
tr.
ZwielSchumacherplatz
Grünaustr.
37 weg
78
80
29
Glaubten-
89
ETH
str. Süd
Hönggerberg Wannen-
Grimselstr.
holzHöngger-
Flurstr.
Tüffenwies
berg Rebhüsli
89
Neu-
80
95
Am
affoltern
Börtli Im Wingert
Althoos
Chalet-
Hardhof
AlbiswegLuggweg-
Appenzellerstr.
rank
Würzgraben
Maienweg
str.
Alte
Aargauerstr. Hardturm
Trotte
Kempfhofsteig
Krematorium
Letzipark
Letzipark Sportweg Bernoulli-
Waidbadstr. Nordheim
Birchstr.
West
75
DuttweilerhäuserEscherRebbergOberwiesengutwegsteigPflegeNordheim- Freihofstr. SBB-Werkstr.stättebrücke
768
S5 S6 S7 S16
zentrumstr. Birchdörfli
72
Waid-
Käferberg Berufswahl-
Max-Bill-
Herdern-
Fischerweg
fusswegschule
Platz
str.Lehen-
Waidspital
Technopark Förrlibuckstr.
Letzigrund
str.WipkingerAlbisrieder-
Escher-Wyss-Platz platzRosenWeiherplatzgartenstr.steig 89
72
62
33
Zypressen-
S2 S8 S14
Bahnhof
str.Damm-
Wipkingen
wegBucheggFernsehNürenplatz
Hallenbad
studio
Lochergut
Quellen-
Lettenstr. bergstr.
Oerlikon
str.
10
KehrichtKalk-
Okenstr.
Riedgraben
Röntgenstr.
verbrennungbreiteLaubi-
7
32
Limmatweg
Saatlenstr.
Zwingli-
Kernstr.
platz
Orionstr.
Militär-|Langstr.
haus
Museum f.
Bezirks-
Gestaltung
Dreispitz
Auzelg
Schmiede
gebäude
Wiedikon
Kanonen-
Sihlquai|HB
Schaffhauser- Universität
gasseplatz
Irchel
Aubrücke
LandesLang-
Tierspital Wald-
Auzelg Ost
museummauer
Strickhof
Garten
14
str.
Letzistr.
Frohburg
SchürgiScheuch-
Friedrichstr.
str.
62
zerstr.
Langensteinenstr.
Heerenwiesen
Schwamendingerplatz
S4 S10
Kinkelstr. Schäppiweg
Roswiesen Luegis-
89
66
land
Seilbahn Rigiblick
13
15
Germaniastr.
Glattwiesen
Rigiblick
33
6
Probstei
7
200
Spyristeig
444
Mattenhof
445
Hügelstr.
SIHL
Brunau|
Krönleinstr.
S4
Mutschellenstr.
Heubeeriweg
Thujastr.
Flobotstr.
33
Jugendherberge
5
6
70
Opern-
Römerhof
haus
Dolderbahn
Kreuzplatz
Kreuzstr.
Signaustr.
Feldeggstr.Hegibach-
Elektrowatt
platz
33
Freiestr.
Kapfstr.
Schlyfi
Hedwigsteig
Zürichhorn Casino Fröhlichstr.
Drusbergstr.
Waserstr.
Wetlistr. Carl-Spitteler-
Str.
Paulus-
Akademie
Burgwies
10
40
15 Tram (Nr. 2–15)
Wonnebergstr.
Tram (nos. 2–15)
66 Bus (Nr. 29–916) Bus (nos. 29–916)
Flühgasse
S8 S-Bahn
S-Bahn train
24 Bergbahn
Epi-Klinik Cable car/funicular
Zürichsee Schiff
Lake Zurich boat
Im Walder
Limmatschiff
Bleulerstr.
Limmat river boat
EndhaltestelleBahnhof
Terminus
Tiefenbrunnen
Haltestelle nur in Bus stop only for
Pfeilrichtung bedient direction shown
Linie verkehrt nur
in einer Richtung
Bus only travels in
one direction here
10
50
Tarifzone ZVV
ZVV fare zone
Wald
Woodland
©ZVV|VBZ|12.2009
91

64 STREET REGISTER
Abeggweg M-5
Achermannweg O-2
Ackermannstrasse IJ-2
Ackerstrasse D-1/M-7
Aegertenstrasse B-4
Aehrenweg M-2
Affolternstrasse M/O-1
Agnesstrasse A-2
Akazienstrasse G-5/6
Albert-Näf-Platz O-2
Albertstrasse L-7
Albin-Zollinger-Platz N-3
Alderstrasse H-7
Alfred-Escher-Strasse D-6/7
Allenmoosstrasse N/O-3
Allmendstrasse B-7
Alte Feldeggstrasse G-6
Am Schanzengraben D-4
Ampèresteg K-5
Ampèrestrasse K-5
Andreasstrasse O-1
Angelikaweg M-1/2
Angererstrasse D-5
Ankerstrasse B-3/C-2
Anna-Heer-Strasse N-3/4
Anton-Higi-Strasse L-2
Anwandstrasse B-2
Apollostrasse H-5
Arbenzstrasse H-7
Armin-Bollinger-Weg M/N-1
Arnold-Kübler-Strasse N-1
Arterstrasse H-5
Asternweg O-3
Asylstrasse H-4/I-5
Attenhoferstrasse H-3
Aubrigstrasse C-4/D-5
Auf der Mauer F-2
Augustinergasse E-3/4
Aurorastrasse J-3/4
Ausstellungsstrasse D-1/M-7
Austrasse B-5
Azurstrasse N-2
Bachofnerstrasse M-6
Bachtobelstrasse A-6
Badenerstrasse A-2/D-3
Badweg D-4
Bächtoldstrasse H-3
Bäckerstrasse C-3
Bärengasse D/E-4
Bahnhofbrücke E-2/F-2
Bahnhofplatz E-2
Bahnhofquai E2-3/F2-3
Bahnhofstrasse E-3/4
Baschligplatz H-4
Basteiplatz D-4
Bauhallengasse B-3
Baumackerstrasse N/O-2
Baumgartnerstrasse B-3/4
Baumgasse D-1/M-7
Baurstrasse G/H-7
Beatenplatz E-2
Beckenhofstrasse N-7
Beckhammer N-3/4
Bederstrasse C-6
Beethovenstrasse D-4/E-5
Begonienstrasse O-3
Bellerivestrasse G-7
Bellevueplatz F-5
Belsitostrasse I-3
Bergstrasse I-3/J-5
Berneggweg A-5
Berninaplatz O-3
Berninastrasse N-2/O-3
Beustweg G/H-4
Biberlinstrasse J-5
Billrothstrasse H-6
Billrothweg H-6
Binzmühlestrasse M/O-1
Bionstrasse G-1
Birchdörfli M-2
Bircher-Benner-Platz I-3
Birchplatz M/N-2
Birchsteg M/N-2
Birchstrasse M-2/N-1
Birmensdorferstrasse B4
Birnbaumstrasse O-1/2
Bleicherweg D-5
Blümlisalpstrasse O-5/6
Blütenstrasse O-3
Blumenweg G-6/7
Bluntschlisteig C/D-6
Bodmerstrasse D-5
Böcklinstrasse H-5/I-6
Börsenstrasse E-4
Bolleystrasse G-1-/2
Brandschenkesteig C-5
Brandschenkestr. C-6/D-4
Brauerstrasse C-2
Breitingerstrasse D-6
Bremgartnerstrasse A-4/B-3
Brinerstrasse A-4
Brotgasse G-5/6
Brown-Boveri-Strasse M-1
Brüderhofweg N-4
Bruggerweg K/L-4
Brunaustrasse C/D-7
Brunnenhofstrasse M-4
Brunnenhofweg M-4
Bubenbergstrasse B-7
Bucheggplatz M-4
Bucheggstrasse L-5/N-4
Buchmattweg N-4/5
Büchnerstrasse G-1/O-7
Bühleggweg O-1
Bühlstrasse A-5
Bührlestrasse M-1
Bülachstrasse O-3/4
Bürglistrasse C-6
Bürkliplatz E-5/F-5
Büttenweg B-7
Bungertweg I-3/4
Burgsteig L-5/6
Burgstrasse L-6
Burgweg H/I-6
Cäcilienstrasse G-4
Carmenstrasse I-4
Central F-2
Ceresstrasse H-7
Chaletweg M-1
Claridenstrasse D-4/E-5
Clausiussteig F-2
Clausiusstrasse F-1
Con.-Ferd.-Meyer--Str. D-7
Corrodisteig L-4
Corrodistrasse L-4/5
Cramerstrasse C-3
Culmannstrasse G-1/O-7
Dahliastrasse G/H-7
Damhirschweg K/L-4
Dammsteg L-6
Dammstrasse L-5/6
Dammweg L-6
Delphinstrasse G-5
Dianastrasse D-4
Dienerstrasse C-2
Dietzingerstrasse B-4
Dörflistrasse O-2/3
Dolderstrasse I-4/J-3
Doldertal I-3
Dorflindenstrasse O-2
Dorfstrasse K-5
Drahtschmidlisteg E-1/N-7
Drahtzugstrasse I-6
Drehergasse H-5
Dreikönigstrasse D/E-5
Dubsstrasse B-5
Dufourstrasse G/H-7
Dunantstrasse I-2
Ebelstrasse I/J-3
Edenstrasse B-6
Edisonstrasse O-2
Eduard-Imhof-Strasse M-1
Eggenschwilerweg N-5
Eibenstrasse B-5
Eichstrasse B-6
Eidmattstrasse H/I-5
Eisengasse G-6
Eisgasse D-2
Ekkehardsteig N-7
Ekkehardstrasse N-6/O-7
Eleonorenstrasse H-3
Elias-Canetti-Strasse N-1
Elisabethenstrasse B-3
Ellen-Widmann-Weg N-1
Else-Lasker-Schüler-Weg N-1
Emil-Oprecht-Platz N-1
Emil-Oprecht-Strasse N-1
Emil-Rütti-Weg M/N-1
Engelstrasse B-2/3
Engimattstrasse B-6/C-7
Englischviertelstrasse H-4/5
Engweg N-7
Erika-Mann-Weg N-1
Erikastrasse B-3/4
Erismannstrasse A-2
Erlachstrasse B-4
Eschenweg N-3
Escher-Wyss-Platz K-6
Eschwiesenstrasse A-3
Fabrikstrasse L-6/7
Färberstrasse G-6
Falkenstrasse F/G-5
Fehrenstrasse H-4
Feilengasse H-7
Feldeggstrasse G/H-6
Feldgütliweg B-3
Feldstrasse B-2/3
Felsenkellerweg C-5/6
Felsenstrasse I-6
Fennergasse G-6
Fichtenstrasse I-5
Fierzgasse D-1/M-7
Finslerstrasse I-2
Fliederstrasse F-1
Flössergasse D-4
Florastrasse G-6
Florhofgasse G-3
Föhrenstrasse N-2
Forchstrasse H-5/6
Franklinplatz N/O-2
Franklinstrasse N/O-2
Frauenklinikstrasse G-2
Fraumünsterstrasse E-4/5
Freiensteinstrasse H-4
Freiestrasse G-3/I-5
Freigutstrasse C-4/D-5
Freischützgasse D-2
Freudenbergstrasse H-1/2
Freudwilerweg H-1
Freyastrasse B-3/C-4
Friesstrasse O-1
Fritz-Heeb-Weg N-1
Fröbelstrasse J-6
Frohburgstrasse O-5/6
Fürstweg M-5
Füsslistrasse D/E-3
Gablerstrasse C-6/7
Gagliardiweg O-2
Gallusstrasse N-7
Gartenhofstrasse B/C-3
Gartenstrasse D-4
Gartenweg C/D-4
Gasometerstrasse L/M-7
Gattikerstrasse J-6
Gaugerstrasse N-6
Geibelstrasse L-5
Geissbergweg O-6/7
Geisshübelstrasse B-6/7
Gellertstrasse H-2
Gemeindestrasse G/H-4
Gemsenstrasse N-6
General-Guisan-Quai D/E-5
General-Wille-Strasse D-5
Genfer Strasse D-5
Georgengasse N-7
Geranienstrasse H-7
Gerechtigkeitsgasse C/D-4
Gerhardstrasse B-4
Geroldrampe K-7
Geroldstrasse K-7
Gersten-strasse L-6
Gertrud-Kurz-Strasse M-1
Gessnerallee D-3/E-2
Gessnerbrücke D-2
Giesshübelbrücke B/C-5
Gladbachstrasse G-1/H-2
Glärnischstrasse E-4/5
Glasmalergasse C/D-3
Gletscherstrasse H-7
Gloriasteig H-2/3
Gloriastrasse H-2
Götzstrasse N/O-6
Goldauerstrasse O-6
Goldbrunnenstrasse A-4/5
Goldregenweg M-2
Gotthardstrasse D-5
Gotthelfstrasse B-4
Grabenwies M-3
Granitweg N-7
Grebelackerstrasse M-4
Grüngasse C-3
Grütlistrasse C-6
Gubelhangstrasse N-2
Gubelstrasse N-2
Güetliweg M-1
Guggachstrasse M/N-4
Guggerweg N-4
Gujerstrasse O-1
Gutenbergstrasse C/D-5
Guthirtstrasse L-5
Habsburgstrasse L-5/6
Hadlaubsteig O-6
Hadlaubstrasse H-1/O-5/6
Häderlihof N-4
Häldeliweg H-2
Hafnerstrasse D-1
Hainerweg H-6
Haldenbachstrasse G-1
Haldeneggsteig F-1
Haldenstrasse A-5/6
Hallenstrasse G-5/6
Hallwylplatz C-4
Hallwylstrasse C-4
Hammersteig I-6
Hammerstrasse H/I-6
Hardbrücke K-6/L-5
Hardstrasse K-6/7
Hardturmrampe K-6
Haselweg H-3
Hauserstrasse I-4/J-3
Hedwigsteig I-6
Hedwigstrasse I-6
Hegarstrasse H-5
Hegibachplatz I-6
Hegibachstrasse I-6/J-5
Heidegraben N-2/3
Heimplatz G-4
Heinrichstr. C/D-1, K-6/M-7
Helenastrasse H-7
Heliosstrasse I-5/6
Hellmutstrasse B-2
Helvetiaplatz C-2
Herbartstrasse C-2
Herman-Greulich-Strasse B-2
Herrenbergstrasse O-7
Herzogstrasse H-2
Heuelsteig I/J-4
Heuelstrasse J-4
Himmelsleitli H-3
Hinterbergstrasse H-1/2
Hirschengraben F-3/G--4
Hirschgartnerweg O-4
Hirschwiesenstrasse N/O-4
Hitzigweg J-5
Hochfarbstrasse F-2
Hochstrasse H-2
Höhensteig J-5
Höhenweg J-5
Hölderlinsteig I/J-5
Hölderlinstrasse I-5
Hönggerstrasse K-5/L-6
Höschgasse G/H7
Hofackerstrasse I/J-6
Hoffeld M-2/3
Hofhölzliweg L-2
Hofstrasse H-4/J-2
Hofwiesenstrasse M-5/N-2
Hohe Promenade G-4
Hohenbühlstrasse G-5
Hohlstrasse B/C-2
Holbeinstrasse G-5
Holunderhof M-2
Holunderweg M-2
Hopfenstrasse B-5
Horgenweg K-2
Hottingerbergstrasse J-2/3
Hottingerplatz H-4
Hottingerstrasse G-4
Hotzesteig N-5
Hotzestrasse N-6
Hügelstrasse C-7
Hüttisstrasse O-1
Hufgasse G-5
Hugostrasse O-2
Huttensteig G-1, O-7
Huttenstrasse G-1/2
Idaplatz A-3
Idastrasse A-3
Ilanzhofweg N-5
Ilgenstrasse H-4
Im Birkenhof N-5
Im Eisernen Zeit N-5/6
Im Hofgarten M-5
Im Schilf H-1
Im Waidegg M-4
Imfeldsteig M-6
Imfeldstrasse L/M-6
Immenweg M-2
In Gassen E-4
Inselhofstrasse H-7
Irchelstrasse N-5
Irisstrasse H-3
Irringersteig G-2
Islerstrasse B-7
Jägergasse D-2
James-Joyce-Strasse N-1
Jasminweg M-2
Jenatschstrasse D-5
Joachim-Hefti-Weg C-6
Johannes-Ott-Weg M-5
Johannesgasse C/D-1, M-7
Josefstrasse C/D-1, K-6/L-7
Juliastrasse H-5
Jungholzhof O-1
Jungholzstrasse N-1
Jungholzweg O-1
Jungstrasse N-1
Jupitersteig J-5
Jupiterstrasse I-5
Käferholzstrasse L-2/M-4
Kalandergasse B-6/7
Kalanderplatz B-7
Kalkbreitestrasse A-4/B-3
Kanalstrasse B-7
Kanonengasse C-2
Kantonsschulstrasse G-3/4
Kantstrasse H-2/3
Kanzleistrasse A-2/C-3
Kapfsteig J-6
Kappelergasse E-4
Kappelerhof E-4
Karl-Bürkli-Strasse A-2
Karlstrasse H-7
Kartausstrasse IJ-7
Kasernenstrasse D-2/3
Kasinostrasse H-4
Katharinenweg C-6
Kehlhofstrasse A/B-4
Keltenstrasse I-2
Kempterstrasse J-5
Kenngottweg F-2
Kernstrasse B-3/C-2
Kiefernweg M-2
Kinkelstrasse N-7/O-6
Kirchbühlweg A-4/5
Kirchenweg H-6
Kirchgasse F-4
Klarastrasse G-5
Klausstrasse G-6/7
Kleinertstrasse K/L-5
Kleinjoggsteig H/I-1
Kleinstrasse G-5
Klingenstrasse D-1
Klopstockstrasse C-6
Klosbachstrasse H-5/I-4
Kloster-Fahr-Weg M/N7
Klusdörfli J-5
Klusplatz J-5
Klusstrasse J-5
Kochstrasse A-2
Köchlistrasse B-3
Köllikerstrasse I/J-3
Körnerstrasse B-3
Konkordiastrasse H/I-5
Konradstrasse D-1
Korneliusstrasse H-7/8
Kornhausbrücke M-7
Kornhausstrasse M-6
Krähbühlstrasse I/J-2
Krähbühlweg J-2
Kräuelgasse C-2
Kraftstrasse H/I-2
Kreuzbühlstrasse G-5
Kreuzplatz H-5
Kreuzstrasse G-5/6
Krönleinstrasse H/I-1
Kronenstrasse M/N-6
Kügeliloostrasse L/M-1
Künstlergasse F/G-3
Künzlistrasse M-2/3
Kurfirstensteig C-7
Kurhausstrasse J-3
Kurt-Hirschfeld-Weg N-1/2
Kurvenstrasse N-7
Kurzgasse C-2
Kyburgstrasse L-5
Lägernstrasse M-5
Lagerstrasse C/D-2
Lamprechtweg M/N-1
Landenbergstrasse L-5
Landisstrasse N-1
Landoltstrasse G-1, O-7
Langackerstrasse M/N-4
Langensteinenstrasse O-5
Langfurren N-3/4
Langmauerstrasse N-6
Langstrasse C-1/2, L/M-7
Langwiesstrasse M-1/N-2
Laubiweg M-5
Laufferweg N-5
Laurenzgasse N-7
Lavaterstrasse D-6
Lehensteig L-5
Lehenstrasse K-5/L-4
Leimgasse H-7
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Leonhardstrasse F-2
Lerchenstrasse B-6/7
Lessingstrasse B-7
Lettenfussweg L-6
Lettensteg M-6/7
Lettenstrasse M-6
Lettenviadukt L/M-6
Letzistrasse O-5/6
Leutholdstrasse L-5
Ligusterstrasse N/O-3
Lilienstrasse I-5
Limmatplatz L/M-7
Limmatquai E3/F3-4
Limmatstr. D/E-1, K-6/M-7
Lindenbachstrasse M/N-6
Lindenstrasse G-7
Lindenweg L-3/4
Lintheschergasse E-2/3
Löwenplatz D/E-3
Löwenstrasse D-3/E-2
Louis-Braille-Strasse A-6
Luisenstrasse C-1/L-7
Lunastrasse H/I-5
Lureiweg I-7
Lutherstrasse C-3
Lux-Guyer-Weg M/N-7
Magnolienstrasse G-6
Magnusstrasse B-2/C-1
Maienstrasse L-2/M-1
Maienweg L-2
Mainaustrasse G-6
Malvenstrasse N/O-3
Malzstrasse B-5
Manesseplatz B-5
Manessesstrasse B/C-4
Manessestrasse B-5/6
Mantelgasse H-7
Margrit-Rainer-Str. M/N-1
Marienstrasse A-3
Marktgasse F-3
Marktplatz O-2
Markusstrasse M/N-6
Marmorgasse C-2
Marscha-Kaléko-Weg N-1
Marsstrasse D-6
Marstallweg D1,M7
Martastrasse A-2/3
Mattengasse C1, L/M-7
Mattensteg E-1
Max-Bill-Platz N-1
Meierweg N-6
Meiliweg A-5
Meinrad-Lienert-Str. A/B-3
Meinradstrasse N-6
Merkurplatz H-4
Merkurstrasse G-5/H-4
Milchbuckstrasse N/O-5
Militärbrücke D-3
Militärstrasse C/D-2
Mimosenstrasse O-3
Minervastrasse H-5/I-6
Mittelstrasse G-7
Möhrlistrasse O-5/6
Molkenstrasse C-2
Mommsenstrasse H-2
Moosbergerweg M-6
Moosgutstrasse A/B-7
Morgartenstrasse C-4
Morgenweg J-4
Motorenstrasse L-7
Moussonstrasse H-2/3
Mühlebachstrasse H-6/I-8
Mühlegasse F-3
Mühlesteg E-2/F-2
Müllerstrasse C-2-3
Münchsteig H/I-7
Münsterbrücke E-4/F-4
Münstergasse F-3/4
Münsterhof E-4
Museumstrasse E-2
Mythenquai D-6
Näfgasse H-6
Nägelistrasse H-3
Nansenstrasse O-1/2
Narzissenstrasse F-1,O-7
Nelkenstrasse F-1,O-7
Neptunstrasse H-5
Neudorfstrasse O-1
Neue Hard K-6/7
Neufrankengasse C-1
Neugasse C/D-1,L7
Neugutstrasse C-6/7
Neuhausstrasse I-2
Neumarkt F-3
Neumühlequai E-1/2
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Neumünsterallee H-6
Neumünsterstrasse H/I-6
Niederdorfstrasse F-3
Nietengasse B/C-2
Niklausstrasse N-7
Nordbrücke L/M-5
Nordheimstrasse M-3
Nordsteig E-1
Nordstrasse K-5/N-7
Nürenbergstrasse M-5
Nürenbergweg M-5/6
Nüschelerstrasse D-3/E-4
Oberdorfstrasse F-4
Obere Waidstrasse K/L-4
Obere Weiherstrasse L-4
Obere Zäune F-3/4
Oberer Gloriasteig H-2
Oberwiesenstrasse M-1/2
Obstgartenstr. E1,F1,N7
Oerlikonerstrasse O-3
Oetenbachgasse E-3
Ohmstrasse O-1
Okenstrasse M-6
Oleanderstrasse N-2
Olivengasse H-5
Oskar-Bider-Strasse M/N-5
Othmarstrasse G-5
Ottenweg G-6/H-5
Ottikerstrasse N/O-7
Ottikerweg O-7
Ottilienstrasse A-3/4
Otto-C.-Bänninger-Weg J-5
Otto-Lang-Weg H-1
Otto-Schütz-Weg N-1
Ottostrasse L-7
Panweg G-1
Paradeplatz E-4
Parkring C/D-5
Paul-Grüninger-Weg M-1
Pelikanplatz D-4
Pelikanstrasse D-4
Pestalozzistrasse H-3
Pfirsichstrasse M/N-6
Pflanzschulstrasse B-2
Pflugstrasse M/N-6
Phönixweg G-3
Physikstrasse G-2
Pilatusstrasse J-3
Plattenstrasse H-3
Postbrücke D/E-2
Poststrasse E-4
Probusweg O-3
Promenadengasse G-4
Quaibrücke E-5,F5
Quellenstrasse L-7
Querstrasse N/O-2
Radgasse D-2/E-1
Rämistrasse F-4/G-2
Rankstrasse I-6
Rathausbrücke E-3,F-3
Rebgasse C-3
Rebhaldenstrasse C-6/7
Rebhügelstrasse A-5
Regensbergstrasse M-2/O-3
Regina-Kägi-Hof M-1
Regina-Kägi-Strasse M-1
Reinacherstrasse I-5
Reinhardstrasse G-5/6
Reishauerstrasse D-1,M-7
Reitergasse D-2
Rennweg E-3
Restelbergstrasse H-1
Ricarda-Huch-Strasse N-1
Richard-Kissling-Weg J-2
Richard-Wagner-Str. D-6/7
Riedtlistrasse N-6/O-7
Riesbachstrasse H-7
Rieterplatz C-7
Rieterstrasse C-6/7
Rigiplatz O-7
Rigistrasse O-7
Rindermarkt F-3
Ringstrasse N-3
Rislingstrasse H-2
Ritterstrasse H-4
Robert-Maillart-Strasse M-1
Römerhofplatz I-4
Röntgenplatz L-7
Röntgenstrasse C-1,L-6/7
Röschibachsteig L-5
Röschibachstrasse L-5
Röschibachweg L-5
Röslibrunnenweg N/O-6
Röslistrasse N/O-6
Rötelsteig M-5
Rötelstrasse M-4/N-6
Roggenstrasse L-6
Rolandstrasse C-2
Rosa-Bloch-Weg M-1
Rosengartenbrücke L-5
Rosengartenstrasse L-5
Rotachstrasse A-4
Rotbuchstrasse M-5/6
Rothstrasse M/N-5
Rotwandstrasse C-2/3
Rousseaustrasse L-5/M-7
Rudolf-Brun-Brücke E-3,F-3
Rudolfstrasse H-7
Rückgasse G-6
Ruedi-Walter-Strasse N-1
Rüdigerstrasse B-6
Rütistrasse I-4
Rütschistrasse L/M-5
Ruhestrasse B-6
Salersteig O-2
Salerstrasse O-2
Samariterstrasse I-4/5
Sandstrasse B-5
Schäppistrasse O-6
Schäppiweg O-6
Schaffhauserplatz N-6
Schaffhauserstr. N-6/O-1
Schanzackerstrasse O-5/6
Schanzengasse G4-5
Scheffelstrasse L-5
Scheideggstrasse C-7
Scherrstrasse O-7
Scheuchzerstrasse N-5/O-7
Schienengasse B/C-1
Schiffbauplatz K-6
Schimmelstrasse B/C-4
Schindlersteig N-6
Schindlerstrasse M/N-6
Schipfe E-3,F-3
Schlatterweg N-5
Schlehdornweg L-2
Schleifergasse I-6
Schlössliweg H/I-1
Schlossgasse A/B-4
Schmelzbergstr. G-2/H-1
Schneckenmannstr. H/I-3
Schönberggasse G-3
Schönbühlstrasse H-4
Schöneggplatz B/C-1
Schöneggstrasse C-1/2
Schönleinstrasse G-3
Schöntalstrasse C-4
Schreberweg J-2
Schreinerstrasse B-2/3
Schrennengasse A-4
Schubertstrasse M-6
Schürbungert N-3/4
Schützengasse E-2
Schützenmatt L-2
Schützeweg L-6
Schulhausstrasse C-6
Schulstrasse N-2
Schwalbenweg M-2
Schwamendingenstr. O-2
Schwarzenbachweg N/O-1
Schwendenweg A-4
Schwingerstrasse N-6/7
Sechseläutenplatz F-5
Seebahnstrasse A-2/B-4
Seefeldquai G-6/7
Seefeldstrasse G-6/H-7
Seegartenstrasse G-6
Seehofstrasse F/G-5
Seerosenstrasse F/G-5
Seestrasse D-6
Seilergraben F-3
Selnaustrasse D-3/4
Seminarstrasse M/N-5
Sempacherstrasse J-5/6
Sennhauserweg I-4
Siegfriedstrasse H-7/8
Siewerdtstrasse O-1
Signaustrasse H-5/6
Sihlamtsstrasse C/D-4
Sihlberg B-5/6
Sihlbrücke D-3
Sihlfeldstrasse A-3
Sihlhallenstrasse C-1/2
Sihlhölzlibrücke C-4
Sihlhölzlistrasse C/D-4
Sihlpromenade C-4/5
Sihlquai D/E-1,L-6/M-7
Sihlquai-Nordrampe K/L-6
Sihlquai-Südrampe K/L-6
Sihlstrasse D-3
STREET REGISTER
Siriusstrasse G/H-1
Sonneggsteig F-1,N/O-7
Sonneggstrasse F-1/2
Sonnenbergstrasse J-4
Sonnhaldenstrasse I-5
Sonntagsteig F-1,O-7
Sophie-Albrecht-Weg M-1
Sophie-Taeuber-Strasse N-1
Sophienstrasse H-4
Spanweidstrasse N-7
Spelteriniweg M-5/N-4
Spiegelhofstrasse H/I-3
Spielweg M-6
Spielwiesenstrasse N-2
Spillmannweg H-1
Spitzackerstrasse N-4
Splügenstrasse D-5
Spöndlistrasse G-2
Sprecherstrasse G-4/5
Sprensenbühlstrasse I-4
Spyriplatz G-1
Spyristrasse G/H-1,O-7
St. Annagasse D/E-3
St. Jakobstrasse C-3
St. Moritzstrasse N-6/7
St. Peterstrasse E-4
Stadelhoferplatz F/G-5
Stadelhoferstrasse F-4/5
Stadthausquai E-4/5,F-4/5
Stäblistrasse G-1,O-7
Staffelstrasse B-6
Stampfenbachplatz E-2,F-2
Stampfenbachstrasse
E-1/2,F-1/2,N-6/7
Stapferstrasse F-1,O-7
Stationsstrasse A/B-3
Stauffacherbrücke C/D-4
Stauffacherplatz C/D-4
Stauffacherquai C-4/D-3
Stauffacherstrasse A-2/C-3
Steinentischstrasse C-5
Steinfelsplatz K-6
Steinhaldenstrasse C-6/7
Steinhausweg E-1,F-1,N-7
Steinkluppenweg N-3/4
Steinstrasse B-4/5
Steinwiesplatz G/H-4
Steinwiesstrasse G/H-4
Sternenstrasse D-6
Sternwartstrasse G-2
Stockerstrasse D-4/5
Stolzestrasse O-6/7
Strandbadweg D-7
Strassburgstrasse C-3
Streulistrasse I-5/J-6
Stüssistrasse N-5/6
Sumatrasteig E-1,F-1,N-7
Sumatrastr. E-1,F-1,N/O-7
Susenbergstrasse J-2
Talacker D/E-4
Talstrasse D-4/E-5
Tannenstrasse F/G-2
Tellstrasse C-2
Tessinerplatz D-5
Theaterstrasse F/G-5
Therese-Giehse-Strasse N-1
Thurgauerstrasse O-1/2
Thurwiesenstrasse M-5
Tièchestrasse L/M-4
Titlisstrasse I-4
Tobelhofstrasse J-2
Toblerplatz H/I-2
Toblerstrasse H-1/I-2
Tödistrasse D-5
Tramstrasse O-2
Traubenstrasse D-6
Traugottstrasse K-6
Treichlerstrasse H-4
Trottenstrasse K-5
Tuggenerstrasse H-7
Tuggenerweg H-7
Tunnelstrasse C/D-5
Turbinenplatz K-6
Turnersteig N/O-7
Turnerstrasse N-7
Uetlibergstrasse A-6/B-5
Uhlandstrasse L-5
Ulmbergstrasse C/D-5
Ulmenweg N-3
Ulrichstrasse I-6
Unionstrasse H-4
Universitätstrasse G-1/2
Untere Zäune F-3/4
Uraniastrasse D/E-3
Urselweg B-2/3
Utobrücke B-6
Utoplatz B-6
Utoquai F-5/G-6
Veilchenstrasse I-5
Venusstrasse N-2/3
Verena-Conzett-Strasse C-4
Viaduktstrasse K-7
Viktoriaweg O-3
Vogelsangstrasse G-1
Volkmarstrasse N-7
Voltastrasse H-2
Vorderberg H-2
Waaggasse E-4
Wachterweg M-5
Wäldlistrasse H/I-4
Waffenplatzstrasse C-7
Wagnergasse G/H-5
Waidfussweg K-4/5
Waidstrasse K-4/5
Walchebrücke E-2,F-2
Walchestrasse E-1,F-1
Waldfussweg K-4
Waldhausstrasse J-3
Waldmeisterweg L/M-2
Waltersbachstrasse E-1,N-7
Waltersteig E-1,N-7
Wartstrasse I-5
Wasserwerkstrasse L-6,N-7
Wattstrasse O-1
Weberstrasse C-4
Wehntalerstrasse L-2/N-4
Weichengasse C-1
Weihersteig L-4
Weinbergfussweg F-2
Weinbergstrasse N-6/7
Weineggstrasse I-6/J-7
Weineggweg J-7
Weinplatz E-4
Weizenstrasse M-6
Welchogasse O-2
Weltistrasse C-6
Wengistrasse B-3
Werdgässchen C-3/4
Werdgartengasse C-4
Werdplatz C-3
Werdstrasse C-3/4
Werikonweg N-6
Werkgasse G-6
Wibichstrasse L-4/M-5
Wiedingsteig A-5
Wiedingstrasse A-4/5
Wiesenstrasse G-6
Wildbachstrasse H-7
Wilfriedstrasse H-4
Wilhelmstrasse K-6
Winkelriedstrasse G-1,O-7
Winterthurerstrasse O-4/7
Wipkingerbrücke K-6/L-5
Wipkingerplatz L-5
Wipkingerweg K/L-5
Wissmannstrasse M-5
Witikonerstrasse J-5/6
Wolfbachstrasse G-4
Wolfbachtobelweg I/J-3
Wotanstrasse I-5
Wuhrstrasse B-4/5
Wunderlistrasse K-4
Wyssenbühlsteig C-7
Wyssgasse C-3
Zähringerstrasse F-3
Zanggerweg N-5/6
Zederstrasse G/H-3
Zehnderweg F-1/2
Zelgstrasse B-4/5
Zeltweg G4-H5
Zentralstrasse A-3/B-4
Zeppelinstrasse M/N-5
Zeughausstrasse C/D-3
Zeunersteig L-5
Zeunerstrasse L-5
Zimmergasse G-5/6
Zinistrasse C-2
Zöllystrasse K/L-6
Zollbrücke E-2
Zollikerstrasse H-5/6
Zollingerweg I-3
Zollstrasse D-1
Zschokkestrasse K/L-5
Zürichbergstrasse G-3/I-2
Zürichholzstrasse N-3
Zurlindenstrasse B-4
Zweierplatz C-3
Zweierstrasse A-4/C-3
Zwingliplatz F-4
Zwinglistrasse C-2
October - November 2012
65

66 INDEX
Venue index
01Bar 35
16tons 51
Adagio 38
Alexander 23
Alpamare 48
Andrea Hinnen 52
ARTige Bar 36
Asian Place 40
Bally 53
Barrique 36
be code 52
Bernie's 52
Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour
45
Beyer 58
Bierfalken 32
Billiardino 37
Bindella 28
Blockhus 27
Blue Monkey 25
Bodega Espanola 30
Bohemia 30
Bona Dea 32
Bowling West 37
Brasserie Federal 32
Brasserie Lipp 27
Bruno Weber's Skulpturenpark
47
Bü's 26
Café Boy 26
Café des Amis 33
Café Schlauch 37
Café Zähringer 31
Calypso 38
Casablanca 35
Chäsalp 28
CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 58
City 23
Clouds 29
Club Tango Argentino 36
Collana 33
Comfort Hotel Royal 23
Cranberry 39
Crowne Plaza 22
Daniel H. 39
Didi's Frieden 26
Dienstgebäude 58
Don Leone 28
Don Milonga 36
Du Théâtre 24
Eastinside 58
Eden au Lac 21
Einkaufszentrum Glatt 52
Encore 38
Ethnographic Museum 43
Europaallee 53
Exil 36
Felsenegg lookout 49
Flea Market Kanzlei 45
Franz Carl Weber 50
Fraumünster 41
Fribourger Fonduestübli 28
Friday's night @
bananenreiferei 36
galerie gmurzynska 58
Galerie Haas 58
Gemeinschaftszentren 50
Ghost Walk of Zurich 45
Giacometti murals 41
Ginger 29
Glassblowing Factory - Glasi
Hergiswil 47
Globus 52
Gonzo 38
Gotischer Saal - Haus zum
Rüden 31
Gran Café Motta 33
Grossmünster 41
Gübelin 58
Guess Zurich 53
Hardau Park 44
Helmhaus 22
Helvti Diner 25
Hiltl 32
Holiday Inn Zurich Messe 22
Honold La Confiserie 54
Hornegg 31
Hörnli - hiking and downhill
scooters 48
Hotel Goldenes Schwert 39
Im Viadukt 53
Italia 28
IWC Boutique 58
Jade 38
Jaime El Barco 40
Jap 52
Jelmoli 52
Kai 40
Karma International 58
Kaufleuten 38
Kerenzerberg - hiking and
downhill scooters 48
Kindercity 43, 50
Kindli 27
King's Cave 30
Komplex 457 36
Kronenhalle 31
Krone Unterstrass &
Townhouse 22
Kunsthaus 43
La Catrina 36
Läderach Chocolatier Suisse 54
Langstars 24
La Stanza 33
Le Dézaley 28
Le Muh 40
Les Halles 29
Lily's 25
Limmathof 24
Lindenhof 42
Lutomirsky Schuhe 53
Maison Blunt 30
Mammut 55
Markthalle 31
Marta 24
Mascotte 36
Meng Cutlery 53
menüfoif 32
Mère Catherine 27
message salon 58
Metropol 35
Mishio 26
Moods 36
Moulin Rouge 38
Mount Chäserrugg -
Toggenburg 48
Museum Rietberg 44
National Museum 44
Nietturm 35
Olé-Olé 37
Oliver Twist 37
Opera 22
Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 51
Oxa 40
Palavrion Bar 37
Palme de Beirut 30
Paradis des Innocents 55
Park Hyatt Zurich 21
Partime 58
Pastorini 50
Pfannenstiel Lookout 49
Pizza Pasta Ciao! 50
Popcorn 25
Predigerhof 39
Pretôt Delikatessen 55
Pumpkin exhibition 47
Rage 39
Rheinfelder Bierhalle 32
Rive Gauche 35
Rolli's Steakhouse 40
Rosenhofmarkt 45
Sala of Tokyo 29
Salsa con 5 36
Saus und Braus - shop for
design 52
Schilthorn - Piz Gloria 49
Schmuklerski 35
Schurter 33
Schweizer Heimatwerk 55
Sein 36
Shedhalle 44
Sheraton Zurich Neues
Schloss Hotel 22
Sorell Seefeld 24
Spice 27
Sprüngli 33
Stairs 38
Stanserhorn 49
Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive
au Lac 22
Sternen Grill 32
St. Gotthard 23
Storchen 27
Stories of the Old Town -
Guided walk 45
Features index
St. Peter 45
Tanzleila 39
Technorama - Swiss Science
Centre 47
Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 55
Teuscher Confiserie 54
The Lion 37
The North Face Store 52
Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 48
Thermalbad Zurzach 48
tibits 32
Tiffins 26
T&M and AAAH! 39
Tritt-Käse 55
Trois Pommes 52
Truffe 54
Tschingg 28
Turm 28
Uetliberg 42
Valmann 37
Vollenweider Chocolatier
Confiseur 54
Welcome Inn 24
Widder 21
Wings 35
Yooji's Bellevue 29
Youth Hostel 24
Zeughauskeller 32
Ziegelhütte 40
Zoological and Paleontological
Museums of the University of
Zurich 50
Zum Grobe Ernst 30
Zum Grünen Glas 29
Zum Guten Glück 24
Zurich Marriott Hotel 21
Zurich Zoo 44
Zürigay online magazine 39
Adult entertainment 38
Art market 58
Billiards 37
Breakfast 33
Cinemas 15
Classical dancing 36
Decoding the menu 26
Lake Zurich 41
Live music venues 36
Markets 45
Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co 44
Meet the concierge 23
Quick eats 32
Shopping around Langstrasse 52
Swiss cuisine 30
Swiss chocolate 54
Thermal baths & Waterparks 48
Useful Zurich apps 8
Watches 56
Zurich in 48 hours 42
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