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Hotels Restaurants Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Maps<br />
WROCŁAW<br />
N°25 - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT)<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ISSN 1642-2899<br />
September - December 2012<br />
Gross-Rosen<br />
Former Nazi<br />
concentration camp<br />
Karl Denke<br />
Lower Silesia’s own<br />
serial killer & cannibal
Contents<br />
Arrival & Transport 10<br />
The Basics 14<br />
Culture & Events 17<br />
Hotels 22<br />
Restaurants 32<br />
Cafes 50<br />
Nightlife<br />
Bars & Pubs 52<br />
Clubs 57<br />
History 60<br />
The story of Karl Denke, known today as ‘the Cannibal<br />
of Ziębice’, was actually lost for decades until Lucyna<br />
Biały, an archivist at the University Library in Wrocław,<br />
rediscovered it in 1999 while reading German newspapers<br />
from the 1920s. Coincidentally, the republishing of the<br />
shocking story also solved the mystery of a strange series<br />
of photographs that Tadeusz Dobosz - today professor of<br />
Forensic Medicine at the Medical Academy of Wrocław –<br />
had found dumped in the trash at the Medical Academy<br />
in the 1980s and rescued out of curiosity. Originally<br />
belonging to the German <strong>In</strong>stitute of Forensic Medicine<br />
in Breslau, the photos turned out to be police slides<br />
taken during the investigation of Denke’s apartment in<br />
1924, including images of human remains, killing tools,<br />
suspenders made of human skin and the only known<br />
photo of Karl Denke – taken after his death and pictured<br />
above. For the complete details of this grisly story turn to<br />
page 24.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CONTENTS<br />
Hidden on a hill of granite 65 miles southwest of Wrocław<br />
lie the partial remains of one of the largest, most complex<br />
and completely compassionless mechanisms of mass<br />
slaughter ever created. Gross-Rosen was but one<br />
seemingly small cog in an almost inconceivable system of<br />
12,000 concentration camps extending over 17 occupied<br />
countries outside the Reich; however, Gross-Rosen’s own<br />
administration over a vast network of almost 100 regional<br />
sub-camps is indicative of the sheer scale of the horror<br />
that Hitler created literally from village to village, across an<br />
entire continent. Today the site serves as a museum, and<br />
a memorial to all those perished. We visit it on page 6.<br />
Sightseeing<br />
Essential Wrocław 62<br />
Old Town 67<br />
Ostrów Tumski 68<br />
Centennial Hall & Parks 70<br />
Jewish Warsaw 72<br />
Gnomes 73<br />
Festung Breslau 74<br />
Further Afield<br />
Silesian Churches of Peace 76<br />
The Great Escape 79<br />
Leisure 80<br />
Shopping 82<br />
Directory 89<br />
Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
City Centre Map 91<br />
City Map 92<br />
Country Map 94<br />
Tram Map 95<br />
Street Register 96<br />
Listings <strong>In</strong>dex 97<br />
Features <strong>In</strong>dex 98<br />
September - December 2012<br />
3
4<br />
FOREWORD<br />
It’s my great honour to introduce you to Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />
<strong>Pocket</strong> and proudly point out that this is our landmark 25 th<br />
issue (please hold your applause until the end). If you’re reading<br />
this guide for the first time, welcome aboard; it’s a shame you<br />
didn’t join us sooner. We can sincerely say you missed one hell<br />
of a summer, but more than that it’s been an incredible pleasure<br />
and a privilege to witness Wrocław’s development over the last<br />
8-plus years that we’ve been producing this guide. After all, we<br />
remember when it seemed you couldn’t buy a green vegetable<br />
anywhere in this town and eating ethnic food meant pickled<br />
cabbage in a tortilla; when staying in a hostel meant bringing<br />
your own sheets to sleep on a metal cot in an anti-social Sovietera<br />
dormitory run by a humourless granny who locked the<br />
doors promptly at 23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language<br />
appeals for late-arrivals. My how times have changed. Now<br />
we’ve got ultra-hip vegan eateries (p.49) and juice bars (p.50)<br />
popping up around the city centre, and finding a cheap bed<br />
that not only isn’t comfortable, but doesn’t seem to come with<br />
the prospect of trading your pillow for a cute girl is increasingly<br />
difficult. Wrocław has come a long way in a short amount of<br />
time and the evidence is everywhere, from the hundreds of<br />
tourists snapping photos of gnomes (p.73) to the unveiling of<br />
the Wrocław Fountain and recent renovation of Centennial Hall<br />
(p.70). Surely you’ve already seen how phenomenal the train<br />
station looks since its facelift (best station in PL, hands down,<br />
p.12) and do we even need to mention the success of that little<br />
football tournament earlier this summer?<br />
No sooner is Euro 2012 over than Wrocław is gearing up for<br />
its next star turn as 2016 European Capital of Culture. It’s<br />
also difficult not to see the recent opening of the imposing<br />
Sky Tower – the city’s tallest skyscraper (p.87) – as a symbol<br />
of Wrocław’s determination to make a name for itself as a<br />
dynamic city on the rise. Wrocław is exactly that, and you’ve<br />
arrived at an excellent time. As the city has developed so<br />
have we, and like every issue before it, the trusty tome you<br />
hold in your hands represents our best guidebook to date.<br />
Within these pages you’ll find the most honest, up-to-date<br />
information on all the best and worst drinking holes, dance<br />
parties and dining establishments in this densely-packed<br />
city, plus all of the memorable things to see and do between<br />
indulgences. Business as usual as far as we’re concerned,<br />
and we go about it gladly. Let us know what you think about<br />
the venues you visit by dropping some comments on our<br />
website – wroclaw.inyourpocket.com – and feel free to<br />
extend your glad tidings or air your grievances at<br />
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Have a great time in<br />
Wrocław. (You may now commence clapping.)<br />
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not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or<br />
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right to say whatever the hell they damn well please about<br />
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from advertisers, owners or the general public. The editor has<br />
made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information<br />
in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no<br />
responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service,<br />
disappointing food or terrible hangovers.<br />
Copyright notice<br />
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.<br />
1999-2012. Maps copyright cartographer.<br />
All rights reserved. No part of this<br />
publication may be reproduced in any<br />
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Maps<br />
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ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Kraków,<br />
tel./fax 12 421 24 48<br />
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
6<br />
GROSS-ROSEN<br />
Located about 65 miles southwest of Wrocław, the small,<br />
inauspicious German village of Gross-Rosen (today known as<br />
Rogoźnice) became the site of one of the largest and most brutal<br />
concentration camps in the Third Reich. Opened as a small<br />
satellite of Sachsenhausen in 1940, Gross-Rosen became an<br />
independent camp less than a year later and quickly grew into<br />
the largest in Lower Silesia with almost 100 sub-camps around<br />
the region. Known for its harsh conditions and high mortality<br />
rate, by the time the camp was liberated by the Soviet Army in<br />
early 1945 an estimated 125,000 inmates had been processed<br />
through its gates, 40,000 of whom never made it out alive.<br />
Today the former site of the camp serves as a memorial for<br />
those victims, as well as a public museum with several exhibits,<br />
an enlightening film and plenty of space for reflection.<br />
While names like Auschwitz and Dachau have been burned<br />
into the collective consciousness, lesser known but no less<br />
significant camps like Gross-Rosen serve to remind us of<br />
just how extensive, efficient and horrifying Hitler’s concentration<br />
camp system was. Those who take on the challenge of<br />
travelling to Gross-Rosen can expect to leave not only with<br />
an understanding of the history of the site and the tragedy of<br />
the Holocaust, but also with a reaffirmed respect for human<br />
life and the human spirit; the same respect for life that the<br />
Nazi regime’s failure to possess plunged the people of Europe<br />
into the worst hell imaginable only two generations ago.<br />
Visiting the Museum<br />
A visit to Gross-Rosen begins by visiting the parking<br />
attendant just inside the entrance gate, whose small<br />
kiosk also serves as the camp’s information desk. If you<br />
came by car you’ll have to pay 3zł for parking, which is<br />
essentially the camp’s admission price if you aren’t going<br />
on a guided tour or interested in seeing the film. Admission<br />
to the camp is officially free, but there’s really no<br />
reason not to pay the nominal fee of 3/5zł to see the quite<br />
excellent film; it’s offered in 30 or 60 minute versions<br />
and can be viewed in the former SS Canteen building in<br />
almost any language you want, whenever you’re ready.<br />
At this window you can also pick up some valuable info,<br />
maps and guidebooks to the camp in English.<br />
Visiting the camp takes a minimum of 2 hours, but can take<br />
up to 4 hours if you’re as thorough as we were. With travel<br />
time it is basically a full day’s outing from Wrocław. Be aware<br />
that there is no food or drink available at the camp, with<br />
the exception of a small Nescafe coffee vending machine<br />
near the bathrooms on the ground floor of the former SS<br />
Canteen. Though the machine does have a button labelled<br />
‘tomato soup,’ we strongly recommend you pack a lunch<br />
for your visit, rather than try your luck pressing that button.<br />
What to See<br />
Gross-Rosen Museum ul. Ofiar Gross-Rosen 26,<br />
Rogoźnica, tel. (+48) 669 18 87 79, www.gross-rosen.<br />
eu. <strong>In</strong> addition to the film, the camp consists of three permanent<br />
museum exhibits, as well as some small temporary<br />
exhibits. Like most former concentration camps, after its<br />
evacuation Gross Rosen was largely destroyed by the Nazis<br />
and today not much remains of the former camp buildings<br />
aside from their foundations and a few faithful reconstructions.<br />
For visiting tourists, the main sights of the camp can<br />
basically be divided into four sections, which we detail below.<br />
The Former SS Camp and Canteen:<br />
You’ll notice that Gross-Rosen today basically has two<br />
gates - the main entrance gate from the road and the historic<br />
entrance gate into the camp, beyond which prisoners were<br />
confined. Originally, this large area between the gates - including<br />
the present-day parking area and information point - was<br />
occupied by the SS camp and administrative buildings of<br />
Gross-Rosen. On the left side of the camp’s main road stood<br />
the barracks for the SS officers, beyond which was the official<br />
parade grounds and even a swimming pool for the officers.<br />
Today the most important site for visitors, however, is the<br />
former SS Canteen on the right side of the road.<br />
This building likely owes its survival to the fact that it was<br />
the most intact when the Red Army turned the site over to<br />
Polish authorities. During the life of the camp, this building<br />
was basically a recreation centre for off-duty SS men,<br />
including a mess hall, kitchen, store rooms and casino.<br />
Standing adjacent to it in a similar building would have been<br />
the camp commandant’s office and headquarters. Today it<br />
houses the Gross-Rosen Museum’s main exhibition - “KL<br />
Gross-Rosen 1941-1945” - and screening rooms for the<br />
film. All of the displays are in Polish, however they have been<br />
thoroughly reproduced in English in a rather hefty booklet<br />
that you should request from the museum attendant upon<br />
entering. Giving a detailed history of the camp’s creation,<br />
development and the cruel realities of everyday life there,<br />
the exhibition covers everything from escape attempts to<br />
the fates of the perpetrators. <strong>In</strong>cluding extensive first-hand<br />
accounts, artefacts, plenty of maps - including a large<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
3D scale model of the camp - and even original art made<br />
by survivors, the exhibit is highly informative and upfront<br />
without seeking sympathy . Don’t miss the shocking<br />
stained glass windows in the first room, and bear in mind<br />
that the only bathrooms in the camp are in this building<br />
(both upstairs and down); they will seem really far away if<br />
you need them later.<br />
The Quarry:<br />
Gross-Rosen owes its existence and its location to the granite<br />
quarry located directly next to the camp. ‘Quarry means<br />
death’ was the ominous phrase spoken by the camp’s<br />
prisoners, who knew they wouldn’t last long if they were<br />
assigned to work there. <strong>In</strong> the first two years of the camp,<br />
however, it was unavoidable. As the camp grew, inmates<br />
would quarry stone 12 hours a day on starvation rations<br />
while being terrorised by SS officers only to build prison<br />
barracks in the evenings. The camp’s own doctor, who went<br />
on to work in other camps later in the war, described the<br />
living conditions he saw at Gross-Rosen as worse than at<br />
other camp for the simple fact that all of the prisoners were<br />
employed in the quarry. The mortality rate was extremely<br />
high and the average lifespan of a quarry worker at Gross-<br />
Rosen was not more than 5 weeks. Make a right from in<br />
front of the Prisoners’ Camp Gate and walk up a small hill<br />
to see and reflect on this rather picturesque pit where so<br />
many men were worked to their deaths.<br />
The Prisoners’ Camp Entrance Gate:<br />
Gross-Rosen’s most iconic<br />
building is the completely<br />
restored prisoners’ camp<br />
entrance gate with its infamous,<br />
obligatory and<br />
insincere mantra Arbeit<br />
Macht Frei (‘Work Makes<br />
You Free’) emblazoned<br />
above the granite archway,<br />
beyond which there was<br />
actually almost no chance<br />
of freedom. Topped with<br />
a watchtower, flanked by<br />
two wooden guardhouses,<br />
and surrounded with what<br />
was once an electric fence, here you’ll find the museum’s<br />
other two primary exhibits. <strong>In</strong> the guardhouse on the left<br />
side is the permanent exhibit ‘Lost Humanity’ which gives<br />
a general but succinct and enlightening overview of Europe<br />
in the years 1919-1945, focussing on Hitler’s rise to power,<br />
the growth of German fascism, the origin and development<br />
of the concentration camp system - described as ‘Hitler’s<br />
extermination apparatus’ - and the plight of Poland trapped<br />
between two totalitarian regimes bent on expansion. <strong>In</strong> the<br />
guardhouse on the right side is the exhibit ‘AL Riese - Satellite<br />
Camps of the Former Concentration Camp Gross-Rosen,’<br />
which details the sub-camps of Gross-Rosen located in the<br />
Owl Mountains southwest of Wrocław along the modern-day<br />
border of Poland and Czech Republic. Established in 1943<br />
as the tide of WWII began to turn against the Third Reich,<br />
the work camps of AL Riese were created to build what many<br />
believe was to be a massive underground headquarters<br />
for Hitler. The project was eventually abandoned, but not<br />
before over 194,232 square metres of secret passageways<br />
were dug into the mountains by prisoners, some 3,648 of<br />
whom died during the work. While the exhibit does much to<br />
explain why sub-camp Riese had such a high death rate, it<br />
rather disappointingly doesn’t indulge in speculation about<br />
Hitler’s plans for the project, which remains one of WWII’s<br />
greatest mysteries. Displays in both guardhouse exhibits are<br />
presented in English, Polish, French, German and Russian.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
GROSS-ROSEN<br />
A Brief History<br />
Gross-Rosen Concentration Camp came into being<br />
on August 2nd, 1940 when a transport of prisoners<br />
was sent to the SS-owned quarry on a hill above the<br />
small German village of the same name (today known<br />
as Polish Rogoźnice) and essentially forced to begin<br />
building the camp themselves. Soon more and more<br />
prisoners were being sent and by May 1st, 1941<br />
Gross-Rosen had grown enough to gain the status of<br />
a self-reliant concentration camp. Conditions in the<br />
camp in its first two years were especially harsh with<br />
12-hour work days spent excavating granite from the<br />
quarry, insufficient food rations and violent abuse from<br />
the SS officers and staff who were actually awarded<br />
military decorations from Nazi command for inhumane<br />
treatment of the prisoners and executions. While the<br />
famous Nazi motto written above the camp’s gate<br />
and divulged to the inmates was ‘Arbeit Macht Free’<br />
(Work Makes You Free), the administration actually<br />
phrased it a different way, operating the camp under<br />
the acknowledged motto of ‘Vernichtung Durch<br />
Arbeit’ (Extermination Through Work). At the camp’s<br />
start prisoners were forbidden from receiving mailed<br />
parcels, however the administration later reckoned<br />
that changing the policy would allow them to continue<br />
serving the same starving food rations. All packages<br />
were inspected and any valuables were stolen, but<br />
food was allowed; thus, in the Nazis’ view, people in<br />
occupied countries became partly responsible for<br />
feeding the inmates. Due to the deplorable conditions,<br />
Gross-Rosen was regarded by the Nazis themselves<br />
as among the worst of all the concentration camps.<br />
An increasing emphasis on using prison labour in<br />
armaments production lead to the large expansion of<br />
Gross-Rosen in 1944, when it became the administrative<br />
hub of a vast network of at least 97 sub-camps<br />
all across Lower Silesia and the surrounding region.<br />
While several hundred Jews had been prisoners<br />
of the camp between 1940 and 1943, most of its<br />
population were Polish and Soviet POWs. However<br />
as camps further east began to be evacuated, a<br />
vast influx of Jews began to arrive in Gross-Rosen,<br />
including prisoners from Auschwitz for whom a whole<br />
new annex of the camp was built specifically in the<br />
fall of 1944. [Readers familiar with the story of Oskar<br />
Schindler may know that some of his Jewish workers<br />
were sent to Gross-Rosen on their way to Brünnlitz,<br />
which was itself a sub-camp of Gross-Rosen located<br />
in Czech Republic.] Between October 1943 and January<br />
of 1945 as many as 60,000 Jews were deported<br />
to Gross-Rosen, mostly from Poland and Hungary.<br />
Gross-Rosen also had one of the highest populations<br />
of female prisoners in the entire concentration camp<br />
system at this time.<br />
One of the last camps to be evacuated, in early February<br />
1945 the Germans forced some 40,000 prisoners,<br />
half of whom were Jews, on brutal death marches to<br />
the west which lasted days, and even weeks in some<br />
cases. With no food or water, freezing conditions,<br />
and an SS policy of shooting anyone who looked too<br />
weak to continue, many of the former inmates did not<br />
survive to freedom. Gross-Rosen was liberated by the<br />
Soviet Army on February 13, 1945. It is estimated that<br />
125,000 prisoners went through the camp, 40,000<br />
of whom perished.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
7
8<br />
GROSS-ROSEN<br />
Getting There<br />
The sites for Nazi concentration camps were often<br />
dictated by existing infrastructure and the ease of<br />
transporting prisoners there by rail (see: Auschwitz-<br />
Birkenau). Gross-Rosen is a bit of an anomaly in<br />
this regard, in that it is not easy to visit if you don’t<br />
have a car. Located in Rogożnica, 65km west of<br />
Wrocław on the road between Strzegom and Jawor,<br />
if you do have access to a vehicle the journey takes<br />
about an hour.<br />
By train: There are a half dozen connections from<br />
Wrocław to Rogoźnica throughout the day, but you’ll<br />
notice that none of them are direct. Most make a<br />
change in Legnica or Jaworzyna Śląska and the travel<br />
time is anywhere between 1hr 20mins and 2hrs<br />
45mins, with a total cost of 14-20zł depending on the<br />
train. To check the exact times go to rozklad-pkp.<br />
pl which has limited but effective English language<br />
functionality.<br />
Unfortunately getting to Rogoźnica train station is not<br />
the end of the journey. Gross-Rosen Concentration<br />
Camp is about another 3km from the train station<br />
and with no buses the only way to get there is on<br />
foot, or by flagging down a ride. The walk is not difficult,<br />
but it is slightly uphill the whole way and takes<br />
about 30mins. Ironically, this is the same walk that<br />
prisoners were forced to make, albeit under gunpoint<br />
by SS men with dogs as the German peasants of the<br />
village spat and threw stones at them; those that fell<br />
from exhaustion were often shot or beaten. Puts it<br />
in perspective, no?<br />
Getting to the camp on foot: If you are standing<br />
on the small, crumbling station platform facing the<br />
tracks, head to your left, making another left when<br />
you get to the road about 100m away. This road<br />
takes you down a residential street into the village<br />
of Rogoźnica leading to a church, around which<br />
you’ll make another left and then a relatively quick<br />
right onto ul. Ofiar Gross Rosen (Victims of Gross<br />
Rosen Road). On this road you’ll pass the town’s<br />
only two shops, which you might be wise to stop in<br />
considering there will be no later opportunities to<br />
purchase food or drink at the camp (bear in mind<br />
that you’re in a village and these shops close early,<br />
especially on weekends, if they are open at all). At<br />
the fork in the road with the large cross, stay left<br />
following the signs to ‘Muzeum Gross-Rosen.’ This<br />
is basically the half-way point and the rest of the<br />
way is a slight uphill grade straight to the gates of<br />
the camp, which you can’t miss.<br />
The Prisoners’ Camp:<br />
Passing through the main gate visitors have the opportunity<br />
to wander the grounds of the camp where informational<br />
markers explain the buildings that once stood there and their<br />
significance. Though mostly ruins and foundations, among<br />
the objects that have been preserved are the basements of<br />
the prisoners’ bathhouse, kitchen and one of the barracks,<br />
the original camp bell, sections of the original camp fence,<br />
the field crematorium, and the ‘death wall’ where mass executions<br />
were committed. Restoration work is ongoing and<br />
some barracks have also been recently rebuilt to hold future<br />
exhibits where some small temporary displays currently exist.<br />
Immediately to your left upon entering the camp is the roll call<br />
square and camp gallows. It was here that prisoners were<br />
forced to gather twice a day to be counted, a process which<br />
often took hours in inclement weather. Show executions for<br />
those that broke the rules were also commonplace. Escapes<br />
attempts were frequent, but rarely successful and those that<br />
were captured were executed and displayed on the square,<br />
often dressed in clownish outfits with painted cheeks and<br />
signboards hanging off their dead bodies proclaiming, ‘I’m<br />
back with you again.’<br />
The most interesting and evocative objects are in the far right<br />
corner of the camp, including a towering stone mausoleum<br />
into which prisoners’ ashes from the pits surrounding the<br />
nearby crematorium were placed in 1953. Close behind, a<br />
large, rather symbolic dead tree stands above the execution<br />
wall, around which dozens of personal monuments have been<br />
placed by the families of camp victims. On the other side of<br />
the fence a wooden watchtower has been reconstructed on<br />
what was actually an additional annex of the camp added in<br />
the later stages of the war to house prisoners relocated after<br />
the evacuation of Auschwitz. Unfortunately the territory of what<br />
was known as the ‘Auschwitz Camp’ is currently off-limits to<br />
tourists (which is a shame because the views from the tower<br />
would be impressive). Q Open 08:00 - 18:00. From October<br />
open 08:00 - 16:00. 30min film 3zł, 60min film 5zł. Foreign<br />
language guided tours available if arranged in advance: groups<br />
of up to 15 people 70zł; groups up to 50 people 120zł.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
10 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
By Bus<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational and domestic buses arrive and depart from<br />
Dworzec Centralny - the somewhat grimy bus terminal<br />
located immediately behind the railway station on ul. Sucha<br />
(B-6). <strong>In</strong> addition to being a stop on the Eurolines international<br />
coach network, Polski Bus (polskibus.com) operates budget<br />
routes to Prague, Łódź and Warsaw from Wrocław. Absent<br />
from that list is Kraków. Despite the A4 highway going straight<br />
to Kraków, getting there by bus from Wrocław is harder than<br />
it should be with LinkBus (link-bus.com) and Lajkonik<br />
(lajkonikbus.pl) bus companies both offering limited service.<br />
Wrocław Bus Station (Dworzec Centralny PKS)<br />
B-6, ul. Sucha 1/11, tel. (+48) 71 333 05 30. Grim and<br />
uncouth, Wrocław’s bus station isn’t exactly the city’s greatest<br />
ambassador. With the train station having undergone a thorough<br />
sprucing up, Dworzec Centralny is now the city’s unofficial day<br />
care centre for drunks and lunatics, no doubt driven to madness<br />
by the overriding unhelpfulness of the people working at the<br />
ticket windows. The purchase of tickets can be attempted at any<br />
number of windows, each of which has its own overly-complex<br />
opening hours, though we know at least one is always available<br />
between 06:00 and 21:30; for international (międzynarodowe)<br />
tickets, try platform number 4. <strong>In</strong> Wrocław’s bus station you’ll<br />
also find toilets (open 06:00 - 23:30, 2zł - after that use the<br />
automatic ones near the platforms, the cost is 1zł), an ATM<br />
just outside the main entrance and a currency exchange (open<br />
07:00 - 22:00) inside the main station building. Compared to the<br />
bus station, the train station is upstanding and highly navigable,<br />
with more services on hand. Those heading into town will likely<br />
need to go this direction anyway. Most of the city’s hotels and<br />
hostels are within 15 minutes walk of the bus station and taking<br />
public transport doesn’t make a ton of sense unless you<br />
know exactly why you’re doing so. If at a loss, jump in a MPT<br />
Radio Taxi (71 191 91).<br />
By Car<br />
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a<br />
statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of<br />
using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces,<br />
networks unsuited to the volume of traffic and, most<br />
of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour result in the<br />
common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. While<br />
the road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives<br />
and funding, the size of the country’s road network means that<br />
it will still be years before results are seen in many places.<br />
Almost all roads outside of urban areas are a single lane in<br />
each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably bogged down by the<br />
fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as well as the odd farmer in<br />
a horse-cart. This results in impatient drivers overtaking each<br />
other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming<br />
traffic. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you<br />
and the vehicle in front.<br />
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities<br />
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban<br />
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr<br />
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched<br />
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,<br />
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper<br />
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has<br />
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/<br />
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU<br />
citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they<br />
are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the<br />
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find<br />
their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we<br />
know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and<br />
passport at all times when driving.<br />
One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 connects<br />
Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków (via Opole<br />
and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is pedestrianised,<br />
meanwhile one-way and seemingly accessible streets that<br />
are actually only available to permit holders make driving in<br />
the centre an absolute nightmare. Poor planning and limited<br />
traffic patterns mean congestion is a major, major problem as<br />
well; call a cab and it might take as much as twenty minutes<br />
to get to you, though it’s only a few blocks away. As such, we<br />
suggest you ditch your vehicle at the first opportunity, which<br />
raises the question of where to put it.<br />
Free parking is available at Arkady Wrocławskie (A-5, next to the<br />
railway station, and note only the first hour is free, and although<br />
you can leave your car here overnight, the place is closed from<br />
23:00-06:00, Sat, Sun 23:00-08:00). The multi-storey car park<br />
on ul. Rzeźnicza, next to the Sofitel (A-3) charges 8zł per hour or<br />
120zł day. Some hotels have limited parking spaces, so check<br />
when booking your room. Street parking is of course available<br />
by seeking out the large blue signs with the letter ‘P’ on them.<br />
Tickets are available from parking meters and those wishing<br />
to park in the city centre will be charged 3zł for the first hour,<br />
3.60zł for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third. Thereafter<br />
you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.<br />
Guarded Parking G-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 32.<br />
Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 5/7.<br />
By Plane<br />
Wrocław can boast one of Poland’s most efficient and modern<br />
airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built a few<br />
hundred metres from the old one and opened in March 2012.<br />
Built ahead of the Euro2012 Football Championships the new<br />
terminal has been built to handle over 3 million passengers<br />
annually and is Ryanair’s first hub in Poland.<br />
Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus Airport (Port Lotniczy<br />
im. Mikołaja Kopernika we Wrocławiu) ul.<br />
Graniczna 190, tel. (+48) 71 358 13 81, www.airport.wroclaw.pl.<br />
Named Wrocław Nicolaus Copernicus Airport, the<br />
airport does a fine job in ushering people in and out of the city.<br />
Just 13 km west of the city centre you will be through passport<br />
control and baggage claim in minutes, at which stage you will<br />
probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend using<br />
one of the ATMs (Bankomats) as the currency exchange desk<br />
offers what we might politely term to be ‘not the best exchange<br />
rates in Poland.’ You will also find press stores, tourist and<br />
airport information desks, a restaurant, bars and a coffee shop.<br />
The easiest way into town is to jump into one of the taxis<br />
sitting outside. The new terminal restricts pick-ups to three<br />
vetted firms. That means ZTP Radio Taxi (tel. 71 19622),<br />
Taxi Plus (tel. 607 19 18 44) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196<br />
27). They all have the same tariffs and you can expect to pay<br />
40-50zł during the day with this rising by around 20zł at night<br />
and at weekends. If you do not see one of these firms, which<br />
have their numbers on the vehicle, we suggest you call one.<br />
Quite frankly though, given the relatively short distance into<br />
town you might just as well hop on the bus. Tickets cost<br />
3.00zl and can be bought from the press store inside the<br />
terminal building or from the machine next to the bus stop.<br />
Buses run roughly every 20 minutes from 05:13 - 23:14<br />
(05:19 - 23:14 on Saturdays and Sundays) with a night bus<br />
(route 249) departing at 00:23, 03:02 and 04:02. Particularly<br />
bulky pieces of luggage warrant an extra charge of 1.50zl<br />
but we have never seen this rule enforced.<br />
For live arrival and departure information call the<br />
number given or visit the airport’s excellent website.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
By Train<br />
Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a gloriously<br />
renovated main train station that was at one time the<br />
largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before the Euro<br />
Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably the nicest<br />
train station in Poland, making a wonderful impression on<br />
all those who arrive via the rails. Located just south of the<br />
market square, from here it is possible to catch domestic<br />
connections to Kraków (5hrs), Warsaw (7-8hrs) and Poznań<br />
(3hrs), and international lines to Berlin (6-7hrs), Dresden<br />
(3.5hrs) and Prague (5-6hrs). Miłej podróży!<br />
Wrocław Main Train Station<br />
(Dworzec Główny) B-6,<br />
ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel. (+48)<br />
197 57, www.rozklad.pkp.pl.<br />
Recently the beneficiary of a massive<br />
293 million złoty investment,<br />
Wrocław’s main train station has<br />
never looked better. Completed in<br />
1857, this grandiose Neo-Gothic<br />
building, with its decadent exterior<br />
of turrets and crenulations, has<br />
been given a fresh blaze of bright<br />
orange-yellow paint - and while<br />
not necessarily the colour we would have chosen, it certainly<br />
makes an impression. Looking like a grandiose palace from<br />
its early days, the station finally has the surrounding grounds<br />
to match, with a green public square replete with dozens of<br />
benches and two playful fountains to replace the car park<br />
and gas station that formerly stood in front of the entrance.<br />
There’s even a plethora of covered bicycle parking and a<br />
new underground parking complex nearby (follow the signs).<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
<strong>In</strong>side, all the elegant architectural details of the original design<br />
have been brought back to life, while new digital display screens<br />
give you all the arrival and departure info you need. Modernised<br />
to be completely handicap accessible, during our most recent<br />
visit some of the escalators and lifts had yet to come to life,<br />
but there are every handy conveyors to put your luggage on if<br />
you chose the stairs. Other amenities include 24-hour ticket<br />
windows, information desks, lockers and a left luggage service,<br />
ATMs (bankomat), currency exchange offices (kantor), comfortable<br />
waiting rooms, and even a VIP waiting room for those with<br />
first-class tickets. Several shops, restaurants, cafes are already<br />
in place and with space to spare, more will no doubt soon be<br />
moving in. Overall it adds up to the most convenient, comfortable,<br />
and easy to navigate train station in Poland.<br />
Be aware, however, that despite there being over a dozen<br />
ticket windows, you may still be greeted by long queues, so<br />
give yourself plenty of time. If in a rush, remember that you<br />
can buy tickets on board the train from the conductor, though<br />
you’ll pay a hefty surcharge. Station departures (odjazdy) are<br />
listed on the yellow timetables and arrivals (przyjazdy) on the<br />
white ones. Check the large digital display board for the number<br />
of the platform (peron). Visit the Polish railways website<br />
at rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English<br />
language functionality - to check the times ahead of travelling.<br />
As for getting into town, you are basically in it. Most of the<br />
city’s hotels and hostels are within 15 minutes walking distance,<br />
and given that penetrating the inner Old Town on public<br />
transport requires you take at least two trams, it probably<br />
isn’t worth the hassle. If you really don’t fancy the walk, there<br />
are taxis waiting of front of both station entrances. Q Open<br />
24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations<br />
cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:00.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
11
12 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
Train Station History<br />
One of central Wrocław’s most impressive structures is no<br />
doubt its main train station, whose flamboyant Neo-Gothic<br />
facade full of turrets and crenulations more resembles a<br />
19th century palace than a modern transportation complex.<br />
Originally built in the years 1855–1857 to form the starting<br />
point of the Oberschlesische Eisenbahn (Upper Silesian<br />
Railway), the station was the design of Royal Prussian architect<br />
Wilhelm Grapow, and despite having only one platform<br />
it was still regarded as the biggest station in Europe. When<br />
it first opened the station stood afield from the rest of urban<br />
Breslau (as the German city was then known), flanked by a<br />
lake and a Jewish cemetery. However, as the city grew so did<br />
the need for more trains, and by 1904 five new platforms<br />
had been added. It was on Platform 3 that popular cult actor<br />
Zbigniew Cybulski (aka ‘The Polish James Dean’) died while<br />
trying to jump onto a moving train bound for Warsaw. Today<br />
a commemorative plaque unveiled by director Andrzej Wajda<br />
on January 8, 1997 - the 30th anniversary of the event - can<br />
be seen on the floor of the busy platform.<br />
While railway station modernisation projects in Poland’s<br />
other major cities have seemingly turned their stations into<br />
soulless shopping malls, Wrocław’s station has retained its<br />
original design, which in the exciting build-up to Euro 2012<br />
was completely restored and enhanced to be handicapaccessible,<br />
including lifts, escalators and luggage belts<br />
leading to the platforms. The space in front of the station<br />
was transformed from a parking lot and gas station into<br />
a green public square with two fountains and plenty of<br />
benches. With space for comfortable amenities like waiting<br />
rooms, restaurants, shops and cafes, the result is nothing<br />
less than modern Poland’s most magnificent train station.<br />
Car Rental<br />
Avis A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego<br />
49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel.<br />
(+48) 71 372 35 67, www.<br />
avis.pl. <strong>In</strong>ternationally trusted service offering a range<br />
of vehicles from sedan to mini-vans. Avis also has a desk<br />
at the airport (tel. 601 35 48 11) but you must arrange<br />
in advance to pick up or drop off a car there. Q Open<br />
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.<br />
Europcar ul. Graniczna<br />
190 (Airport), tel. (+48)<br />
71 358 12 91, www.<br />
europcar.pl. Offering both short and long-term rental<br />
options with eight different categories of car available<br />
to suit your specific needs. Excellence in service with<br />
benefits tailored to your individual requirements. Europcar<br />
is present at all Polish airports including Wrocław<br />
Copernicus. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.<br />
Joka B-5, ul. Kościuszki 34<br />
(Pałacyk), tel. (+48) 601<br />
54 53 69, www.joka.com.<br />
pl. A wide range of cars from<br />
the baby Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi<br />
station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted<br />
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.<br />
Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka<br />
website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun<br />
open on request.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Public Transport<br />
Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and<br />
fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines.<br />
You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the<br />
Old Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights<br />
are located outside the centre. Major hubs for trams<br />
and buses include the main train station (B-6), Pl.<br />
Dominikański (C-3), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (E-4). Buses<br />
and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with irregular<br />
night buses running after that. You can buy<br />
tickets from any kiosk marked “Ruch” and most marked<br />
“Prasa”. Most transport stops, and all trams and buses<br />
now also have automatic ticket machines, however<br />
those on trams and buses only accept payment cards,<br />
while those at stops accept cash.<br />
A single fare ticket is 3zł, though note that night buses<br />
cost 3.20zł. 48-hr (20/10zł) and 72-hr (26/13zł) tickets<br />
good for all public transport in and around the city are<br />
also available and might be clever if you plan on riding<br />
more than twice a day. ISIC or other non-Polish student<br />
ID is valid for a significant student discount, but you<br />
must carry your ID.<br />
Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid<br />
until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus. If you’re<br />
caught without a properly punched ticket, you’ll owe the city<br />
of Wroclaw 120zł, or 150zł if they don’t get the money within<br />
seven days, plus the price of the original ticket.<br />
Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the money.<br />
‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday and ‘w dni<br />
wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday.<br />
Taxis<br />
Rogue taxis are still a bit of a problem in Wrocław, especially<br />
around the train station. Make sure that your cab is clearly<br />
marked, has a rate card in the window and that the driver turns<br />
the metre on and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver is<br />
now obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. <strong>In</strong> some instances<br />
it is possible to pay by credit card but do ask beforehand.<br />
On the whole you’ll pay an initial 6zł fee, before being charged from<br />
3zł per kilometre. Note that after 22:00 you’ll be paying a premium<br />
night tariff. Prices also rise at weekends and if travelling outside<br />
the city limits. Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a<br />
point of contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service<br />
that necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver<br />
may not expect one. But double standards being what they are,<br />
it’s anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10%<br />
is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.<br />
Lux Taxi, tel. (+48) 71 196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl.<br />
MPT Radio Taxi, tel. (+48) 71 191 91, www.919.com.pl.<br />
Taxi Blues, tel. (+48) 71 196 61, www.taxiblues.pl.<br />
Taxi Plus, tel. (+48) 601 70 07 53.<br />
Partner Taxi, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 196 27, www.<br />
partner-taxi.pl. Partner’s<br />
high-quality service make<br />
them your best bet for<br />
a cab in Wrocław. Operating clean cars of the same<br />
distinctive make, from Partner you can request an<br />
English-speaking driver or child’s car seat, and when<br />
you’ve blown all your cash at the bar you can pay with a<br />
credit card to get home.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />
98<br />
September - December 2012<br />
13
14 BASICS<br />
Facts & Figures<br />
Territory<br />
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers<br />
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the<br />
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus<br />
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), the<br />
shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Lithuania<br />
(103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).<br />
Wrocław has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and<br />
is the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk).<br />
Longest River<br />
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at<br />
1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before<br />
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław<br />
sits on the Oder (Odra) River which flows 854km through<br />
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German border<br />
before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.<br />
Highest Point<br />
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the<br />
Tatra Mountains along the country’s southern border<br />
with Slovakia.<br />
Population (2011)<br />
Poland: 38,538,447<br />
Warsaw: 1,708,491<br />
Kraków: 759,137<br />
Łódź: 728,892<br />
WROCŁAW: 631,235<br />
Poznań: 554,696<br />
Gdańsk: 460,517<br />
Katowice: 310,764<br />
Local Time<br />
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone<br />
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław it’s 6:00 am in<br />
New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin<br />
and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs)<br />
starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and<br />
October.<br />
Customs<br />
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take<br />
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.<br />
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from<br />
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their<br />
age and value. <strong>In</strong> order to leave the country, art must be less<br />
than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending<br />
by type; photos ‹6,000zł, other art ‹16,000zł, for example); if<br />
one of these conditions is met, the gallery curator can then<br />
provide you with a ‘zaświadczenie’ (permission document)<br />
describing the artwork’s price and when and where it was<br />
created. If the work exceeds the permitted age and value,<br />
you must get permission from the ‘Wojewódzki Konserwator<br />
Zabytków’ (Regional Curator’s Office) to take it out of Poland;<br />
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.<br />
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000zł in<br />
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permission<br />
must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,<br />
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea<br />
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary documents;<br />
if there is any doubt about the value or age of your<br />
purchase, we suggest you visit an ‘Antykwariat’ (antiques<br />
dealer - see Shopping) for advice.<br />
Electricity<br />
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round<br />
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from<br />
the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug<br />
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home, though<br />
if arriving without one, try your luck with hotel reception; they<br />
should be able to point you to an electrical store if unable to<br />
provide a convertor themselves.<br />
Health & Emergency<br />
<strong>In</strong> case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or<br />
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for<br />
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the<br />
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded<br />
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance<br />
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic<br />
capabilities of the operator.<br />
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,<br />
German and Russian speakers have the option of using a<br />
separate line specifically designed for foreigners in distress:<br />
dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599 999 from a<br />
mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist season.<br />
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a<br />
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of<br />
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling<br />
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously<br />
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can<br />
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further<br />
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list<br />
of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial<br />
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money<br />
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)<br />
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out<br />
for the Western Union logo.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,<br />
with practically every café and restaurant offering wi-fi to<br />
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the<br />
network often requires nothing more than a password, which<br />
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with<br />
a simple, “Poproszę o hasło do internetu?” If you don’t have<br />
your own gadgets we offer a few <strong>In</strong>ternet cafe options below.<br />
<strong>In</strong>termax A-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71<br />
794 05 73, www.imx.pl. Very expensive and unpleasant<br />
printing, copying and faxing services also available. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 23:00. 4zł/hour.<br />
Navigator B-3, ul. Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 59 62.<br />
Printing and cd-burning available. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
4zł/hour.<br />
Law & Order<br />
<strong>In</strong> general Wrocław is safer than most Western cities, and<br />
visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ<br />
common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers<br />
should be on guard against pickpockets. Those travelling<br />
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on<br />
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes<br />
connecting Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette<br />
or sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things.<br />
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly<br />
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka<br />
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to<br />
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Market Values<br />
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite<br />
increases over the last couple of years particularly in<br />
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday<br />
products and prices.<br />
Market values as of August 20, 2012 based on<br />
€1 = 4.03zł<br />
Product Price (zł) Price (€)<br />
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 zł € 2.26<br />
Snickers 1.45 zł € 0.36<br />
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.99 zł € 5.70<br />
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 zł € 0.72<br />
0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.99<br />
Loaf of white bread 1.79 zł € 0.44<br />
20 Marlboros 12.60 zł € 3.13<br />
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.82 zł € 1.44<br />
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.00 zł € 0.74<br />
law. <strong>In</strong> recent years foreign wits - from those in Chewbacca<br />
costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly<br />
acceptable to drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre<br />
fountain - have tested the patience of the local law enforcement.<br />
Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t<br />
push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip<br />
to Wrocław’s premier drunk tank (ul. Sokolnicza 16/20), a<br />
chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for a<br />
6-24 hour stay. <strong>In</strong> return for your cash expect a strip search,<br />
a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling<br />
vagrants. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee,<br />
though the mug sometimes comes with the smell of urine<br />
for a reason. Credit cards are not accepted.<br />
Another easy way for tourists to cross cops is by jaywalking.<br />
If you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect<br />
jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people<br />
standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to<br />
change. The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is<br />
the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite<br />
freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place<br />
where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’<br />
light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign<br />
visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency<br />
means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful<br />
chaps will even accept foreign currency).<br />
Quick Currency Convertor<br />
PLN US$ Euro Pound<br />
3.27zł = $1 4.03zł = €1 5.14zł = £1<br />
1 zł $0.31 € 0.25 £0.19<br />
2 zł $0.61 € 0.50 £0.39<br />
3 zł $0.92 € 0.74 £0.58<br />
4 zł $1.22 € 0.99 £0.78<br />
5 zł $1.53 € 1.24 £0.97<br />
6 zł $1.83 € 1.49 £1.17<br />
7 zł $2.14 € 1.74 £1.36<br />
8 zł $2.45 € 1.99 £1.56<br />
9 zł $2.75 € 2.23 £1.75<br />
10 zł $3.06 € 2.48 £1.95<br />
20 zł $6.12 € 4.96 £3.89<br />
50 zł $15.29 € 12.41 £9.73<br />
100 zł $30.58 € 24.81 £19.46<br />
150 zł $45.87 € 37.22 £29.18<br />
200 zł $61.16 € 49.63 £38.91<br />
250 zł $76.45 € 62.03 £48.64<br />
1 000 zł $305.81 € 248.14 £194.55<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
BASICS<br />
Money<br />
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the<br />
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,<br />
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food<br />
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for<br />
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change<br />
for such moments.<br />
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and<br />
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often<br />
provide better value than the banks in your home country or<br />
the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors<br />
in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites.<br />
Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list<br />
of Kantors in Wrocław, see Directory.<br />
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist destination,<br />
prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the<br />
country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having<br />
said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues<br />
and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to<br />
Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely<br />
cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums<br />
costs around 5-15zł.<br />
Post<br />
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under paperwork riddled<br />
with illegible stamps and seals, there is no indication that<br />
Poland’s postal service - Poczta Polska - will be automated<br />
or computerised during our lifetimes. There can be no doubt<br />
that the post office is one of the most frustrating places to<br />
be a foreigner in Poland, as you’re guaranteed to not understand<br />
a damn thing happening there. <strong>Your</strong> best ally is the<br />
person in line next to you; if there’s one person in the room<br />
who speaks not a word of English, it’s the qualified clerk at<br />
the service window. Also, don’t expect any signs to feature<br />
English translations, though all paperwork has been mystifyingly<br />
translated into French (and only French). When you get to<br />
the head of that insufferably long queue, don’t be surprised<br />
to be sent to another or back to the end, paperwork in hand.<br />
The declaration that your nicely wrapped parcel is somehow<br />
‘unacceptable’ is another popular reason why you might find<br />
yourself ready to ‘go postal’, though there are many others.<br />
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental value,<br />
please, make sure you do so by using priority mail or better;<br />
magic word: ‘Priorytet.’ Choosing the cheapest overseas<br />
option available will ensure your package is opened before it<br />
arrives and the contents may or may not be removed. We’re<br />
not exaggerating.<br />
There are many post offices around Wrocław, including on<br />
the market square. The enormous satellite crowned edifice<br />
at ul. Krasińskiego 1 (C-3/4) is certainly the largest and most<br />
incomprehensible. Good luck, gringo.<br />
Post Office B-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38,<br />
www.poczta-polska.pl. Typically efficient Polish post office.<br />
Q Open 24hrs.<br />
National Holidays<br />
November 1 All Saints’ Day<br />
November 11 <strong>In</strong>dependence Day (Nov 11, 1918)<br />
December 25 First Day of Christmas<br />
December 26 Second Day of Christmas<br />
September - December 2012<br />
15
16 BASICS<br />
Language Smarts Religion<br />
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy<br />
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at<br />
other European languages with German being the most commonly<br />
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’<br />
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a<br />
reasonable understanding.<br />
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often<br />
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your<br />
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth<br />
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.<br />
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great<br />
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination<br />
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in<br />
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.<br />
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels<br />
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’<br />
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’<br />
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’<br />
Basic pronunciation of consonants<br />
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’<br />
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’<br />
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’<br />
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’<br />
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’<br />
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’<br />
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’<br />
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’<br />
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’<br />
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’<br />
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but<br />
one syllable.<br />
Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get<br />
you started.<br />
Civilities<br />
cześć (cheshch) hi/bye<br />
dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/<br />
afternoon<br />
dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening<br />
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night<br />
tak (tahk) yes<br />
nie (nyeh) no<br />
proszę (prosheh) please<br />
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers<br />
dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you<br />
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry<br />
kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you<br />
Mam na imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is<br />
Jestem z Anglii<br />
Necessities<br />
(yehstem zanglee) I am from England<br />
Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?<br />
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee Do you (male/female)<br />
po angielsku? pan/panee po<br />
angyelskoo?)<br />
speak English?<br />
Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish<br />
polsku<br />
polskoo)<br />
Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh<br />
napeesatch)<br />
Please write it down<br />
Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too<br />
paleech?)<br />
Can I smoke here?<br />
Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please<br />
poproszę prosheh)<br />
Numbers<br />
1 jeden yehden<br />
2 dwa dva<br />
3 trzy tshi<br />
10 dziesięć jayshench<br />
General<br />
Airport lotnisko<br />
Train station dworzec pkp<br />
Bus station dworzec pks<br />
Right/left prawo/lewo<br />
One ticket to jeden bilet do<br />
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa<br />
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are<br />
Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms<br />
and the number of actual practicing Catholics is probably closer<br />
to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most religious<br />
countries in Europe. For over one thousand years Poland has<br />
been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against pagan invasions<br />
and looking to religion for a sense of social and national unity.<br />
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned<br />
to the Church for solace; during the communist era, underground<br />
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The<br />
deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source<br />
of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than<br />
cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more<br />
easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm for<br />
religion a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent<br />
processions that occur from time to time and the droves that<br />
flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocław’s<br />
many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of<br />
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.<br />
Toilets<br />
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a<br />
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Some restaurants<br />
and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities;<br />
this is a practice also used in train stations and most public<br />
conveniences. Keep small change handy. Below we list public<br />
toilets near the city centre.<br />
Public Toilet B-1, ul. Drobnera<br />
Public Toilet A-3, Pl. Solny<br />
Tourist Card<br />
OpenWrocław Tourist Card, www.openwroclaw.pl.<br />
Ambitious tourists intent on getting the most out of their<br />
time and money in Wrocław should consider picking up the<br />
OpenWrocław Tourist Card, which entitles the bearer<br />
to free unlimited travel on public transport, discounts at<br />
hundreds of participating hotels, bars, restaurants, cafes<br />
and more, and a package of free admissions to cultural<br />
institutions and other city attractions. A variety of cards are<br />
available, each tailored to your specific area of interest - be it<br />
culture, entertainment, leisure or all of the above - and all can<br />
be purchased for 24, 48 or 73 hour periods at corresponding<br />
prices. A definite bargain for those with busy itineraries,<br />
the Tourist Card is available at over 120 distribution points<br />
around town. Visit the OpenWrocław website for full details<br />
regarding prices, partners and sales outlets.<br />
Water<br />
Though officially stamped as safe to drink, hypochondriacs<br />
and others with a weak constitution may want to avoid drinking<br />
Polish tap water; indeed, despite it never giving us any<br />
problems, the locals still regularly scold us for drinking from<br />
the tap. The antique plumbing in many buildings can also<br />
affect the water quality, so to play it safe we recommend<br />
you just drink bottled water, which is widely available and<br />
inexpensive. Unless you’re in a restaurant, that is. Tourists<br />
from countries where the right to drink water is a guaranteed<br />
freedom may be surprised to find that water is not complimentary<br />
in Polish restaurants; in fact it’s downright expensive<br />
and comes in a tiny glass that will barely wet your thirst. By<br />
comparison, beer is a much better value as you get more than<br />
twice as much for only a couple złoty more; such is Poland’s<br />
‘drinking problem.’ If you’re still set on drinking water with<br />
your meal, be prepared to declare a preference between<br />
gazowana (carbonated water) and niegazowana (still water).<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Art Galleries<br />
Arttrakt B-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 1/1, tel. (+48)<br />
502 58 19 05, www.arttrakt.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.<br />
City Gallery (Galeria Miejska) A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza<br />
28, tel. (+48) 71 344 67 20, www.galeriamiejska.<br />
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Admission free.<br />
Galeria Awangarda B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 32,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 790 25 82, www.bwa.wroc.pl.QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. Wed<br />
admisson free.<br />
Tkacka Na Jatkach Gallery A-2, ul. Jatki 19/23,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 344 38 78, www.galeria.md4.pl.QOpen<br />
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.<br />
WRO Art Centre B-4, ul. Widok 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 32<br />
40, www.wrocenter.pl. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 13:00<br />
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.<br />
Cinemas<br />
Cinema City Korona ul. Krzywoustego 126c (Psie<br />
Pole), tel. (+48) 71 323 60 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Q<br />
Box office open from 30 minutes before the first showtime to<br />
15 minutes after last showtime. Tickets 14-29zł.<br />
Helios Magnolia Park E-4, ul. Legnicka 58, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 355 53 55, www.helios.pl.QBox office<br />
open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Tickets<br />
15-26zł.<br />
Helios Nowe Horyzonty A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego<br />
19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786 65 66, www.heliosnh.pl.<br />
Lower Silesian Film Centre (Dolnośląskie Centrum<br />
Filmowe) A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64a, tel. (+48)<br />
71 793 79 00, www.dcf.wroclaw.pl.QBox office open<br />
depending on repertoire. Tickets 8-23zł.<br />
Cultural Centres<br />
Biuro Festiwalowe Impart 2016 D-3, ul. Mazowiecka<br />
17, tel. (+48) 71 341 94 32, www.impart.art.pl.<br />
Q Box office open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun open 2 hours<br />
before events.<br />
Wrocław Center for Jewish Culture and Education<br />
(Centrum Kultury i Edukacji Żydowskiej Fundacji<br />
Bente Kahan) E-4, The White Stork Synagogue, ul.<br />
Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23, www.fbk.org.<br />
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. From December open<br />
10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat Admission free<br />
for the exhibition.<br />
Opera Stages<br />
Academy of Music (Akademia Muzyczna) E-4,<br />
Pl. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 71 355 55 43, www.<br />
amuz.wroc.pl.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission free for<br />
all concerts.<br />
Wrocław Opera (Opera Wrocławska) A-4, ul.<br />
Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 57 79, www.opera.<br />
wroclaw.pl.Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 -<br />
17:00. Tickets 10-300zł.<br />
Philharmonic<br />
Wrocław Philharmonic (Filharmonia Wrocławska)<br />
E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.<br />
filharmonia.wroclaw.pl.Q Box office open 11:00 - 15:00,<br />
15:30 - 18:00, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets<br />
10-80zł.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
September - December 2012<br />
17
18 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Avant Art Festival<br />
02.10 Tuesday - 07.10 Sunday<br />
Avant Art Festival<br />
http://avantart.pl/. The Avant Art Festival is an<br />
international presentation of experimental and<br />
avant garde art packed with original and unique<br />
cultural phenomena. Prepare to have all your preconceptions<br />
blown away and get ready to explore<br />
new genres. This will be 5th edition of the Avant<br />
Art Festival, this time under the subtitle ‘Germany’,<br />
the first wide-ranging presentation of that region’s<br />
culture in Poland. However the performers are from<br />
all over the world and the line-up list is as long as<br />
you could hope for. Established in 1978, DAF are<br />
the real German legend deal. The inspiration for<br />
future synthpop artists, without them the style<br />
EBM, joining industrial music with punk, would never<br />
have been created, which is nice. Another star will<br />
be Bonaparte. This band from Berlin’s musical<br />
style is hard to categorise, but electro-rock-punkrave<br />
manipulation doesn’t seem too wide of the<br />
mark. The magnificently monickered Defibrillator<br />
& Peter Brontzmann are masters in the world of<br />
free jazz and improvised music. He will perform<br />
with the band using a trombone to perform electronic<br />
music...sounds interesting... sounds great...<br />
Mmmm. Knuckleduster , you couldn’t make these<br />
names up - it just gets better, are from Germany<br />
and Canada. They found their style and renewed<br />
post-rock by adding installations and improvisation;<br />
their music joins ethnic sounds with electronic<br />
music. Meanwhile the Moritz Von Oswald Trio, I’m<br />
saying nothing, appeared early on the electro scene<br />
of the 90s and they join percussion, synthesizers<br />
and improvisation to show a new side of electro.<br />
For the first time ever there will be a performance<br />
by two recording studios: Raster-Noton, home of<br />
Kangding Ray, Byetone and Frank Bretschneider,<br />
as well as Project:Mooncircle. Also for the first time<br />
Avant Art Film presents German films about music.<br />
Last but not least we shouldn’t forget the debates,<br />
workshops, performances, and the presentation of<br />
the festival abroad: this year in Berlin and Cologne.<br />
From its foundation the Avant Art Festival has been a<br />
celebration of artistic electicism where experiments<br />
in art have no limits, the quality of creation being the<br />
only thing that matters - check it out. Q Ticket prices<br />
were undecided at the moment. Please check our<br />
website for updates.<br />
Theatre Stages<br />
Capitol Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny Capitol)<br />
A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 72, tel. (+48) 71 789 04 52, www.<br />
teatr-capitol.pl.QBox office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun one<br />
hour before performance. Tickets 13-49zł.<br />
Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) I-4, ul. Wystawowa<br />
1, tel. (+48) 71 347 72 00, www.halastulecia.pl.Q Tickets<br />
for events available at Centennial Hall box office (Open<br />
10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:30. From November open<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00). Tickets depending<br />
on repertoire.<br />
Contemporary Theatre (Wrocławski Teatr<br />
Współczesny) A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 12, tel. (+48) 71<br />
358 89 22, www.wteatrw.pl.QBox office open 12:00 -<br />
19:00. Sun open 2 hours before performance. Closed Mon.<br />
Tickets 20-32zł.<br />
Puppet Theatre (Teatr Lalek) A-4, Pl. Teatralny 4,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 335 49 00, www.teatrlalek.wroclaw.pl.Q<br />
Box office open 09:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun two<br />
hours before performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-30zł.<br />
<strong>In</strong>formation & Tickets<br />
Lower Silesian <strong>In</strong>formation Centre<br />
(Dolnośląskie Centrum <strong>In</strong>formacji Kulturalnej)<br />
A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,<br />
www.dcik.pl. Come here for complete information on<br />
what`s happening in Wrocław and the surrounding area.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Concerts<br />
16.11 Friday<br />
Ethno Jazz Festival: Diana Krall<br />
Orbita Hall, ul. Wejherowska 34. This Canadian jazz<br />
singer and pianist, wife of Elvis Costello if you’re interested<br />
in domestic matters, has won 5 Grammies and performed<br />
with Ray Charles, Tony Bennett and, er, Celine Dion - two out<br />
of three’s not bad and she seems to have come out of the<br />
experience relatively unscathed. Her music has sometimes<br />
sentimental rhythms connected with energetic instrumental<br />
sounds. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-300zł. Available<br />
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
18.11 Sunday<br />
Seal<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.<br />
Famous all over the world for hits like Kiss From a<br />
Rose, Crazy and Amazing, the last time he gave a concert<br />
in Warsaw the tickets sold out immediately. For this reason<br />
he’ll take in 3 cities on this tour: Gdynia Warsaw and Wrocław,<br />
and will be playing all his greatest hits as well as songs from<br />
his latest album: Soul 2. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets<br />
180-350zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek<br />
50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
30.11 Friday<br />
St Andrew’s Concert - Thomas Anders and<br />
Modern Talking Band<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. No plans for St.<br />
Andrew’s day? Then here’s something for you. Provided you<br />
are not sick to the back teeth of hearing “You’re my heart<br />
you’re my soul”, you can take a trip down musical memory<br />
lane. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 60-110zł. Available<br />
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00<br />
- 21:00, 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
18.12 Tuesday<br />
GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.<br />
The band comes again to Poland, this time with<br />
programme “<strong>In</strong> the Miller Mood” featuring the classics of<br />
Glenn Miller, as well as the songs of Count Basie, Harry James<br />
and Ray Anthony. They will visit 4 cities here, a small part of<br />
the 300 concerts a year they give which makes them most<br />
polular swing band in the world. Q Concert starts at 20:00.<br />
Tickets 115-180zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik,<br />
Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
19.12 Wednesday<br />
Smokie with Symphonic Orchestra<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.pl.<br />
Bizarrely popular in Poland this tour will take in<br />
9 cities. Together for 40 years, the one that gets everyone<br />
going here is “Living next door to Alice”. We can only marvel<br />
at the prospect of that and other favourites, name one - I<br />
dare you, being given the symphonic treatment. Q Event<br />
starts at 19:00. Tickets 110-170zł. Available at www.<br />
ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
Up-to-date events<br />
only at:<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
National Museum<br />
National Museum<br />
(Muzeum Narodowe)<br />
D-3, Pl. Powstańców<br />
Warszawy 5, tel. (+48)<br />
71 372 51 50, www.<br />
mn.wroclaw.pl. Paintings,<br />
sculptures, engravings,<br />
photographs and<br />
handicrafts are exhibited in a Dutch Neo-Renaissance<br />
building from the 19th century. Both permanent and temporary<br />
exhibitions show precious items from the Middle<br />
Ages to the present day from Lower Silesia, Poland and<br />
Europe.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each month). From October<br />
open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,<br />
Tue (except last Tue of each month). Admission 15/10zł.<br />
Groups over 10 people 5zł per person, Sat free. Entry<br />
free with a ticket to the nearby Racławice Panorama.<br />
European Art of the 15th - Early 20th<br />
Prepare to come and see<br />
work by Pieter Brueghel the<br />
Younger, Agnolo Bronzino,<br />
Cosimo Rosselli, Raphael’s<br />
father Giovanni Santi, Lucas<br />
Cranach as well as Wassily<br />
Kandinsky. These and other<br />
masters of European art<br />
will be featured at the newlyarranged<br />
permanent gallery<br />
and the show entitled European<br />
Art of the 14th - Early<br />
20th century which will re-open at the National Museum<br />
in Wrocław after an absence of 20 years. Altogether, the<br />
new permanent gallery will feature some 300 objects of<br />
fine and decorative arts. The story of European art in the<br />
early modern and modern era will be traced and will start<br />
with ‘the juxtaposition of the Italian and Northern Renaissance,<br />
particularly their respective approaches to religious<br />
themes’. Also explored will be the influence of major social<br />
changes in the 16th century combined with the ideas of<br />
humanism and the emerging Reformation. Next will be<br />
the Golden Age of Dutch and Italian painting and the show<br />
closes with a focus on the the early modern era and an<br />
exquisite selection of 18th century artists connected with<br />
the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.<br />
03.09 Monday - 30.09 Sunday<br />
Ryszard Kapuściński - Twilight of Empire<br />
If you don’t know the work of Poland’s most famous, and<br />
sadly departed, journalist, you should do, and this could be a<br />
good place to start. Over 40 photos by Ryszard Kapuściński<br />
will be prsented charting his journeys through old soviet<br />
Russia. Come and see photos of the August Coup as well<br />
as other aspects of the empire, complete with pictures of<br />
houses and churches, taken between 1989 and 1991.<br />
10.09 Monday - 30.09 Sunday<br />
Dogs in the Museum<br />
This show has collected together over 200 ceramic<br />
dog figures. They come from the private collection of<br />
museum curator Magdalena Szafkowska, a specialist<br />
in department of XIX, XXth century graphics. (I’d like to<br />
apologise in advance for even thinking of typing that<br />
‘You’d be barking mad to miss it’.)<br />
September - December 2012<br />
19
20 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Exhibitions<br />
14.09 Friday - 11.11 Sunday<br />
<strong>In</strong>credible everyday life. Streets and Squares<br />
of Wrocław on old postcards - from Mariusz<br />
Kotkowski collection<br />
H-5, Ethnographic Museum, ul. Traugutta 111/113,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne.<br />
pl. Compare and contrast is the name of the game here. 120<br />
old postcards will be shown next to 120 modern postcards,<br />
all of the same sites. The exhibition will be completed with<br />
advertising objects from the city’s pre-war restaurants. Q<br />
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission<br />
5/3zł. Groups over 10 people 2zł per person, Sat free.<br />
15.10 Monday - 01.12 Saturday<br />
Eugeniusz Geppert - retrospective exhibition<br />
D-3, National Museum, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 372 51 50, www.mn.wroclaw.pl. 40 paintings<br />
and 20 drawings from one of the best painters connected with<br />
Wrocław are on display here. The exhibition has been prepared by<br />
the Academy of Fine Art in Wrocław, whose patron Geppert is. Q<br />
Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except<br />
last Tue of each month). From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each month).<br />
Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł per person, Sat<br />
free. Entry free with a ticket to the nearby Racławice Panorama.<br />
Festivals<br />
13.11 Tuesday - 18.11 Sunday<br />
American Film Festival 2012<br />
Events take place in various locations. Please check<br />
description for more details., http://www.americanfilmfestival.pl/.<br />
The American Film Festival (AFF) will give Polish<br />
audiences the chance to meet contemporary art house American<br />
cinema in the context of its wider culture and themes. There<br />
will be premieres, seminars, lectures as well as discussions on<br />
social, political and cultural issues. To sum up the festival is an<br />
unmissable chance to rediscover the magic of classic American<br />
cinematography as well as see what’s at the cutting edge. One<br />
special event is sure to be a project with brilliant guitarist Bill Frisell<br />
and his 5-piece band performing music to “The Great Flood” by<br />
Bill Morrison. The full schedule will only be known in October, but<br />
some of the films you will have a chance to see include: “Sun don’t<br />
shine” by Amy Seimetz; a crime drama about people running<br />
across America in a car. “Now, Forager: A film about love and fungi”<br />
which had its premiere in Rotterdam, (the title is the obscurist<br />
I’ve ever heard - it refers to the 40s Bette Davis romancer Now<br />
Voyager! - splendid stuff - we love a good pun at IYP). “Not Waving<br />
but Drowning” will also have its Polish premiere during the festival.<br />
Q Tickets 15-18zł. Passes 150zł. Available from 8th October at<br />
www.americanfilmfestival.pl and before the events.<br />
17.11 Saturday<br />
One Love Sound Fest 2012<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.onelove.pl.<br />
The biggest indoor reggae festival in Poland takes place in the<br />
Centennial Hall; it can hold 12,000 fans when chokka. This<br />
will be the 9th time out and, judging by previous successes,<br />
a must for fans of reggae, ragga, hip hop and dancehall. The<br />
headline act this year must be the legendary Max Romeo,<br />
Jamaica’s finest was first heard on John Peel in the mid 70s<br />
and is still going. Also up will be Mr. Vegas, from Jamaica too,<br />
Overproof Soundsystem from Great Britain and Herbalize It<br />
from Holland, what could they be referring too? Q Event starts<br />
at 16:00. Tickets 69-170zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and<br />
Empik, Rynek 50, A-3 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, 11:00 - 21:00).<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Jesse Cook<br />
23.09 Sunday<br />
Jesse Cook - The Blue Guitar<br />
L-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.gitara.<br />
wroclaw.pl. Jesse Cook is, along with the likes of Paco<br />
de Lucia, seen as one of the finest flamenco guitarists<br />
around. Coming from Canada, he plays rumba, flamenco<br />
and funk jazz, which must warm the cold nights up a bit.<br />
He has supported such stars as Ray Charles, Diana<br />
Krall and his music has been used for the TV serial Sex<br />
in the City. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 48-180zł.<br />
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, Rynek 50, A-3<br />
(Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00).<br />
Misc. Events<br />
23.11 Friday - 23.12 Sunday<br />
Christmas Fair<br />
A-3, Rynek, www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com.<br />
Europe’s most beautiful Christmas bazaars. Beside<br />
local stalls, there will be merchants from Germany and<br />
Austria, and a lot more on top of that. The diversity<br />
includes The Fairytale Forest. The first of its kind in<br />
Poland, amongst the 300 spruces placed on the Rynek<br />
kids will be able to meet characters from fairy tales.<br />
The stalls will be selling Christmas tree decorations,<br />
lamps and other Christmas craft as well as silver and<br />
amber jewellery, leather products, handmade glass<br />
lamps, Christmas tablecloths, aromatic candles and<br />
a whole lot of other unusual bits and bobs. Q Open<br />
10:00 - 21:00. Admission free.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CULTURE & EVENTS<br />
Wroclaw Guitar Festival<br />
10.10 Wednesday - 08.11 Thursday<br />
Wrocław Guitar Festival 2012<br />
tel. (+48) 71 718<br />
29 17, www.gitara.<br />
wroclaw.pl. The<br />
Wroclaw Guitar Festival<br />
is a wide ranging<br />
event, no guitar style<br />
is ignored and the<br />
fans are numerous.<br />
The musicians play on<br />
everything from lutes<br />
and classical guitars<br />
to the latest gizmos.<br />
There’s thundering<br />
flamenco, Latin music<br />
for lovers and jazz.<br />
However, the festival is<br />
not only concerts, there<br />
will be master classes<br />
and workshops as well as presentations of what’s new<br />
on the music market. As always the list of artists is<br />
impressive - here are some of the events<br />
10.10 Wednesday<br />
19:00 Ultra High Flamenco<br />
Wrocław Philharmonic, E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19<br />
This young band from Spain joins jazz with instrumental<br />
flamenco<br />
17.10 Wednesday<br />
19:00 Ana Vidovic<br />
Wrocław Philharmonic, E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 19<br />
A diva of classical guitar from Croatia, be prepared to be<br />
moved by the sensitivity of her music<br />
27.10 Saturday<br />
19:00 Christian Haimel<br />
Stara Giełda, F-4, Pl. Solny 16<br />
More creative and sensitive classical guitar<br />
28.10 Sunday<br />
18:00 Zehnder - Preisig Duo<br />
White Stork Synagogue, D-3, ul. Włodkowica 7<br />
A duet from Switzerland combining singing with the<br />
sounds of violin, a new form of chamber music, if<br />
you will.<br />
03.11 Saturday<br />
19:00 John McLaughlin & The 4th Dimension<br />
Hala Orbita, ul. Wejherowska 34<br />
The new project of jazz guitar master John McLaughlin<br />
gathers musicians of various music styles, come and<br />
find a mix of Western and Eastern roots.;<br />
08.11 Thursday<br />
19:00 Tommy Emmanuel<br />
Wrocław Congress Centre, L-4, ul. Wystawowa 1<br />
The master of fingerstyle has the unique title of “Certified<br />
Guitar Player”, from whom we don’t know. However,<br />
he is self-taught and has 20 albums to his name, no<br />
slouch then.<br />
QTickets 15-190zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and<br />
Empik, Rynek 50 (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
21:00).<br />
September - December 2012<br />
21
22 HOTELS<br />
Accommodation at a Glance<br />
SPLURGE: The most expensive suite in town remains<br />
that of the Monopol; monied megalomaniacs will<br />
enjoy striding the balcony of room 113, which was built<br />
especially for Hitler to address the crowds below in 1937.<br />
The Radisson remains a top choice, not least for its<br />
dining options, while for more custom care spread out<br />
in the luxury boutique suites of the Granary.<br />
CHEAP: <strong>In</strong> Wrocław, cheap never has to be a byword for<br />
poor quality. A stay at Mleczarnia is highly recommended,<br />
while Boogie and Avantgarde remain student faves. If<br />
you want something more private and upscale, Cilantro<br />
Bed & Breakfast offers very high standards at shockingly<br />
affordable prices.<br />
LADS: The Campanile is a decent option: large, wellpriced<br />
and happy to except groups; likewise the Scandic<br />
and Novotel. A great location and gadgets galore can be<br />
found at PURO, but if the budget is tight and location is<br />
key you can’t do better than The One Hostel.<br />
COUPLES: Europeum is a class choice at a price that<br />
won’t break the bank, while Art Hotel is a plush boutique<br />
full of personal touches. If you’re really trying to impress,<br />
check out the personalised service of the Granary or the<br />
city’s signature hotel - the Monopol, with on-site spa,<br />
terrace wine bar and excellent restaurant.<br />
FAMILIES: An apartment should be your first choice<br />
and Leopart and Wrocław Capital Apartments have<br />
a fine selection. Note that Mleczarnia is also happy to<br />
accommodate families and even pets in their private rooms.<br />
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)<br />
<strong>In</strong> Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated<br />
and have traditionally been given a greater importance<br />
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on<br />
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name<br />
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every<br />
day of the year is assigned two saints – one male, one<br />
female – and chances are if you share a name with a<br />
saint (as almost all Poles do), you too have a name day.<br />
Some names are even repeated more than once in a<br />
calendar year, in which case you celebrate the first name<br />
day after your birthday.<br />
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,<br />
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and family<br />
at the celebrant’s home or in the bar of their choice.<br />
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in<br />
which the celebrant is often seen as a ‘guest of honour’<br />
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name<br />
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role of<br />
host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests<br />
are taken care of. <strong>In</strong> return, guests should bring small gifts<br />
(typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would on<br />
someone’s birthday. The Polish birthday song ‘Sto Lat’ (A<br />
Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity might<br />
be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they reflect on<br />
just how dreadful the English happy birthday song actually<br />
is. Name Days are so important to Polish culture that they<br />
are prominently displayed in most of the country’s trams<br />
and buses, thereby ensuring that you know who you should<br />
be buying flowers for that day; information that you’ll find<br />
less readily available on public transport is the name of<br />
the line or the destination of its next stop.<br />
No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to<br />
entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from 5-star<br />
presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique b&b’s to<br />
boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business suites.<br />
The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms (well over<br />
3,500), with several new options opening each year. As<br />
much as we’d like to, we simply can’t list all of them in our<br />
printed guide, however you can find a more comprehensive<br />
list of Wrocław’s accommodation options on our website<br />
and mobile application.<br />
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these<br />
days due to online booking discounts, special offers and<br />
other price variations, we no longer find it particularly<br />
instructive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point,<br />
anyone who uses the Hotel Calculator function on our<br />
website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - will find a better<br />
rate than the official prices we once printed; as such, we<br />
encourage you to do just that (and you can thank us later).<br />
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a<br />
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities,<br />
and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most<br />
recommend to tourists.<br />
Cream of the Crop<br />
Monopol (Hotele Likus) A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, www.monopolwroclaw.<br />
hotel.com.pl. First opened in 1892, the neo-Baroque<br />
Monopol Hotel became one of Wrocław’s most fabled and<br />
recognisable landmarks thanks to a guest list including Greta<br />
Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Adolf Hitler and Pablo Picasso, as<br />
well as popular appearances in film and television. After a<br />
lengthy renovation courtesy of the acclaimed Likus hotel<br />
group, the Monopol has a full five stars pinned on its epaulets.<br />
121 rooms come furnished with turn-of-the century antiques,<br />
including 14 exquisite suites. <strong>In</strong> addition to top business<br />
facilities, Monopol is home to one of the most enticing spa<br />
and wellness centres in Wrocław (see Leisure); add to the<br />
package terrace and rooftop bars and restaurants above exclusive<br />
boutique retail spaces and this legend is alive and living<br />
well. Are you? Q121 rooms (107 singles, 107 doubles, 14<br />
suites). PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh<br />
Platinum Palace ul. Powstańców Śląskich 204<br />
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 324 99 00, www.platinumpalace.<br />
pl. Wroclaw’s five-star hotel scene gets an almighty kick in the<br />
rear. Built in 1906, this was once the finest private house in<br />
the city. Having served for a time as the Wroclaw Academy of<br />
Music it has been lovingly restored and converted with both<br />
taste and style into a breathtaking hotel. While the exterior<br />
remains classical, the interiors (the rooms especially) are<br />
modern, bold and even futuristic. It might cost a fortune to<br />
stay here but it’s worth every penny. Located 4km south of the<br />
market square but well-connected by tram, hop on numbers 2,<br />
6, 7 or 17 getting off at the ‘Orla’ or ‘Krzyki’ stops and you’re<br />
only a short walk away. Q46 rooms (41 singles, 41 doubles,<br />
5 suites). PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhhh<br />
Radisson Blu C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375<br />
00 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. Overlooking<br />
a quiet park rooms come with clean, light colours, heated<br />
bathroom floors and a telephone next to the toilet. Stay in<br />
the business rooms and you’ll have newspapers delivered to<br />
your door and dressing gown and slippers to pad around in.<br />
Facilities include a gym, fantastic restaurant and Sqwiggles<br />
Bar - where expert bartenders mix lethal cocktails for off-duty<br />
businessmen. Q162 rooms (13 singles, 144 doubles, 5 apartments).<br />
PTJHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 67,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel-wroclaw.com.<br />
Outstanding quality inside a modern glass marvel. Ultramodern<br />
fittings include Bang & Olufsen sound systems,<br />
marble bathrooms, jacuzzis and dressing gowns. Le Louis<br />
De-Or Bar and the Pan Tadeusz and Lounge restaurants are<br />
attached to an impressive atrium. Q205 rooms (189 singles,<br />
173 doubles, 15 apartments). PTJHARUFG<br />
KDwW hhhhh<br />
The Granary La Suite Hotel Wroclaw City Center<br />
B-4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www.<br />
thegranaryhotel.com. A shell of its former self after<br />
Festung Breslau, this historic 16th century brewery building<br />
has been reconstructed and conceived as a city centre<br />
luxury boutique hotel - the only one of its kind in Wrocław<br />
and quickly earning a spot in the ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the<br />
World’ collection. Consisting of 47 spatially unique suites<br />
which adapt to the building’s tapering roof letting in lots of<br />
light, each comes with separate dining, living and sleeping<br />
zones, custom-designed furniture, wireless internet and<br />
satellite TV, while the upper floor duplex suites also come<br />
with fully equipped kitchenettes. Additional services include<br />
the restaurant, spa, fitness centre and business facilities,<br />
as well as valet parking, chauffeur and room services. An<br />
experience you’re unlikely to forget with a wow factor of five,<br />
everything at The Granary is tailored to your needs, and the<br />
expectation is that you’re super-needy; so go ahead and<br />
get a foot rub while they put grapes in your mouth. You’re<br />
on vacation, dammit. Q47 rooms (40 singles, 40 doubles,<br />
7 apartments). PTHAR6UFGKDwW<br />
hhhhh<br />
Upmarket<br />
Art Hotel A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 78<br />
77 100, www.arthotel.pl. A plush boutique hotel found<br />
on one of Wrocław’s most engaging streets. Modern<br />
rooms come with personally controlled air-conditioning,<br />
mini-bar and satellite TV, and feature a chic upmarket<br />
aesthetic. Vaulted cellars dating from medieval times<br />
house the hotel restaurant. Q80 rooms (18 singles, 56<br />
doubles, 5 suites, 1 apartment). PTJHAR6U<br />
FLGKW hhhh<br />
Best Western Prima A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl. A modern<br />
hotel occupying a quiet corner of the Old Town. Striking a<br />
neat balance between business and pleasure Best Western<br />
offers top class conference facilities, fitness studio and a<br />
quality onsite restaurant. A glass lift whisks guests to smart<br />
rooms furnished with floral touches. Q79 rooms (78 singles,<br />
66 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHA6UFLG<br />
KDW hhhh<br />
Dwór Polski A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71<br />
372 34 15, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Don’t let the<br />
address fool you, this historical locale in the style of a Polish<br />
manor house is located right across from the Town Hall on<br />
Worcław’s market square. A fabulous ensemble of olde-world<br />
sophistication with touches of modernity, this 16th-century<br />
building provides comfortable rooms throughout featuring<br />
satellite television, free wireless, minibars and renovated<br />
bathrooms. The apartment is wonderful indeed, with plenty<br />
of fancy trimmings and a private entrance for the discreet<br />
guest. Add-ons are minimal, but there’s a feast of traditional<br />
bars and restaurants throughout the building representing<br />
every aspect of Polish food, drink and hospitality. Q28 rooms<br />
(24 singles, 22 doubles, 4 apartments). THA6G<br />
KDW hhhh<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
HOTELS<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Radisson Blu Hotel<br />
Purkyniego 10,<br />
50-156 Wrocław, Poland<br />
tel: +48 71 375 00 00<br />
fax +48 71 375 00 10<br />
reservations.wroclaw@radissonblu.com<br />
www.radissonblu.com<br />
September - December 2012<br />
23
24 HOTELS<br />
Karl Denke, the Cannibal of Ziębice<br />
Born August 12th 1870 in an unknown Lower Silesian<br />
village, not much of Karl Denke’s early life has been recorded<br />
aside from the fact that he was a terrible student<br />
and ran away from home at age 12. 25 years old when<br />
his father died, Karl used the inheritance to buy a farm<br />
and garden of his own in the small town of Münsterberg<br />
- today known as Ziębice - about 60km south of Wrocław.<br />
<strong>In</strong> Münsterberg, Karl was known as a generous, caring<br />
and devout local citizen, even referred to by some as<br />
‘Vater Denke’ or Father Denke. He carried the cross at<br />
Evangelist funerals and played the organ during church<br />
services. Despite living a lower middle-class lifestyle,<br />
he helped beggars and travellers, giving them a place<br />
to stay if they were in need. He didn’t drink alcohol and<br />
he wasn’t known to have relationships with women.<br />
He was a rather rubbish farmer however, and he soon<br />
swapped his farm for a two-story townhouse with a shed.<br />
Like many in Germany after WWI, he lost his savings<br />
due to rampant inflation and was forced to also sell the<br />
house, though he continued to rent an apartment in the<br />
building on the ground floor. Well-liked and respected<br />
around town, Denke could be regularly seen selling<br />
suspenders, belts, shoelaces and other leather goods<br />
in the local market and sometimes even door to door. He<br />
also frequently travelled to Breslau (now Wrocław), where<br />
he was licensed by the Butchers Guild to sell pork in the<br />
city’s markets - all of it boneless, pickled and in jars. It<br />
was a time of crisis and his goods were popular, allowing<br />
him to maintain a decent enough living.<br />
By now you can probably guess where this is going.<br />
Denke’s double life unraveled quickly when on December<br />
21st, 1924 a vagrant appeared at the Münsterberg police<br />
station covered in blood, claiming he had barely escaped<br />
from Father Denke’s apartment with his life. Police were<br />
loath to believe the unknown beggar, but a brief medical<br />
examination revealed that he had sustained a serious<br />
head wound, corroborating his story that he had been<br />
attacked with an axe. Police went to question Denke, who<br />
explained that he had indeed attacked the vagrant as the<br />
man was attempting to rob him after receiving a handout.<br />
Denke was taken to the police station and put in a holding<br />
cell for the night, only to be found dead when an officer<br />
went to look in on him later that same night. He had hung<br />
himself with a small handkerchief.<br />
It was not until the corpse had been turned over to<br />
relatives and the police went to Denke’s apartment to<br />
secure his belongings on Christmas Eve that the people<br />
of Münsterberg discovered exactly what kind of man had<br />
been living among them. What authorities discovered<br />
inside was essentially a meat processing shop that lab<br />
tests would later confirm was full of human remains,<br />
including hundreds of bones, stretched and dehydrated<br />
human skin, tubs of fat, jars of meat pickling in brine,<br />
and a closet full of blood-stained clothing, as well as the<br />
tools for the work, including equipment for making soap.<br />
Dozens of documents and identification papers were<br />
also found, including Denke’s own extensive ledgers<br />
detailing his work, from which authorities were able<br />
to positively identify the names of 20 victims – most<br />
of them recently released from prisons and hospitals.<br />
Based on all the evidence found in Denke’s apartment,<br />
it is believed that the formerly high-standing citizen was<br />
actually responsible for murdering, dismembering, pickling<br />
and processing more than 40 people in a rather short<br />
span of 3-4 years. Needless to say, despite the holiday,<br />
there was a dip in pork sales in Breslau that Christmas.<br />
Hotel Jana Pawła II C-2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. (+48)<br />
71 327 14 00, www.hotel-jp2.pl. This high-standard<br />
hotel was built to honour the late Pope’s second visit to<br />
Wrocław, and has since played host to numerous cardinals<br />
and arch-bishops, diplomats and dignitaries, including bestselling<br />
writer and historian Norman Davies, as well as the<br />
political brothers Jarosław and the late Lech Kaczyński.<br />
Nevermind the gaudy entrance, this hotel is exceedingly<br />
tasteful once inside, including an absolutely stunning lobby,<br />
some very stately conference facilities, and a range of<br />
comfortable rooms, suites and apartments that feature<br />
outstanding views of Ostrów Tumski’s ancient architectural<br />
monuments and the large botanical gardens. Fittingly,<br />
the building even has its own chapel with a 17th century<br />
painting of the Virgin Mary, and the terrace restaurant is<br />
perhaps the best place to eat in the district. Q86 rooms<br />
(86 singles, 63 doubles, 4 apartments). PTHAR<br />
ULGKDW hhhh<br />
Hotel Orbis Wrocław E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich<br />
7, tel. (+48) 71 361 46 51, www.orbis.pl. A tall hotel<br />
with equally high standards. Britain’s Prince Andrew stayed<br />
here a few years back, and no doubt enjoyed the charming<br />
service and hotel swimming pool. Rooms come with<br />
air-conditioning, mini-bar and pay TV with plenty of saucy<br />
channels to pick from. Q294 rooms (41 singles, 248<br />
doubles, 5 apartments). PTHAR6UFLG<br />
KDCW hhhh<br />
HP Park Plaza B-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48)<br />
71 320 84 00, www.hotelepark.pl. A huge glass and<br />
marble affair, the HP Park Plaza sits on the banks of the<br />
Odra River and proves an excellent conference venue.<br />
Well appointed rooms feature wood panelling, plastic<br />
flowers and huge windows to savour the riverside views.<br />
Q177 rooms (156 singles, 156 doubles, 19 suites, 2<br />
apartments). POTHAR6UGKDwW<br />
hhhh<br />
Mercure Panorama C-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 323 27 00, www.mercure.com. Large, colourful<br />
rooms come equipped with bathtubs, while the apartments<br />
feature floor to ceiling windows. Attached to the corner of<br />
a shopping centre, Mercure is fiercely favoured by the business<br />
community. Top marks. Q151 rooms (144 singles, 144<br />
doubles, 7 apartments). PTJHA6UGKwW<br />
hhhh<br />
Park Hotel Diament Wrocław ul. Muchoborska<br />
10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735 03 50, www.<br />
hotelediament.pl. One of the region’s best accommodation<br />
chains, this reliable stalwart has recently made<br />
the grade to four-star status. A more business-minded<br />
model, Wrocław’s Diament has seven climate-controlled<br />
conference rooms with free wifi and movable walls, allowing<br />
creative company execs some interesting options<br />
for ‘team-building’ exercises. Tidy, handsome rooms with<br />
flat-screen satellite TV and wifi, and a strikingly modern<br />
restaurant and lobby round out this revelatory effort ten<br />
minutes from the Old Town and airport. Q132 rooms<br />
(127 singles, 115 doubles, 3 suites, 2 apartments).<br />
PTHA6UFGKW hhhh<br />
PURO Hotel Wrocław E-4, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 772 51 00, www.purohotel.pl. Awash in<br />
amenities and technology, if ever there was a hotel<br />
worthy of the descriptor ‘techno-chic,’ this is it. Free<br />
iPads are available in the lobby, and the rooms, while<br />
small, offer free internet and phones (even international<br />
calls), plus an enormous LCD screen featuring USB<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
• 110 air conditioned rooms<br />
• guarded parking<br />
• restaurant and bar<br />
• conference rooms<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
HOTELS<br />
ul. Jagiełły 7, 50-201 Wrocław, tel. +48 71 326 78 00, fax +48 71 326 78 01<br />
e-mail: wroclaw@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl<br />
ports and international satellite cable, with the ability<br />
to interface with the internet and gaming systems.<br />
There is even a standard control panel allowing you<br />
to adjust everything from the lights to room humidity<br />
and temperature. The lobby and café share the same<br />
smart and modern décor as the rooms and the prices<br />
are quite competitive considering its central location<br />
and techno perks. Book a couple of weeks in advance<br />
during peak seasons and weekends. Q102 rooms (102<br />
singles, 97 doubles). PTHAR6ULGKW<br />
hhh<br />
Qubus Hotel Wrocław B-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny<br />
2, tel. (+48) 71 797 98 00, www.qubushotel.<br />
com. One of our favourite hotels in the city and one<br />
that offers quality from top to bottom - literally. <strong>In</strong> the<br />
basement, an excellent swimming pool, on the top<br />
floor a vast presidential suite featuring stripped wood<br />
floors, kitchen and lounge and a terrace overlooking<br />
the church opposite. Nothing less than an excellent<br />
deal. Q83 rooms (83 singles, 62 doubles, 3 apartments).<br />
PTJHAR6UFGKDCW<br />
hhhh<br />
Scandic Wrocław A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 787 00 00, www.scandichotels.com.<br />
Immaculate rooms a short walk from the train station.<br />
All the hallmarks of the top-class chain are in evidence,<br />
including heated bathroom floors, sparkling rooms and<br />
extras like digital TV and mini-bars in the rooms, plus free<br />
bikes and Nordic walking sticks for guests. Downstairs<br />
pretty receptionists greet guests, while the business<br />
facilities are second to none and there’s now a children’s<br />
playroom. Q164 rooms (164 singles, 164 doubles).<br />
PTHA6UFGKDwW hhhh<br />
The Maluch<br />
Like the Czech Škoda and<br />
the East German Trabant,<br />
the Polish Maluch has<br />
served several purposes<br />
during its lifetime; a Godsend<br />
for families behind<br />
the Iron Curtain, source of<br />
amusement for smirking<br />
© Christophe Gruszka<br />
foreigners and now, as a<br />
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports<br />
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously<br />
delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels<br />
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.<br />
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biała and<br />
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license<br />
with its official title being the ‘Polish Fiat 126p’. Its diminutive<br />
size earned it the moniker of ‘Maluch’ (Little One), a name so<br />
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened<br />
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was<br />
priced at 69,000zł (approximately three times the average<br />
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland,<br />
despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Throughout<br />
communist times the car could only be purchased by<br />
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would<br />
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to<br />
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,<br />
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable<br />
staying power, and you’ll still find scores of them coughing<br />
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch<br />
retails for about 300-500zł, so there’s little stopping you<br />
from becoming a proud owner yourself.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
25
26 HOTELS<br />
Mid-range<br />
Campanile Wrocław Stare Miasto A-1, ul.<br />
Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www.campanile.<br />
com.pl. Great value. Rooms are large, smart and spacious,<br />
and come decorated in the Campanile colours of<br />
green and yellow with chequered duvets and curtains,<br />
and creature comforts like satellite TV and air-con. Just<br />
north of the centre, the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski are<br />
within easy walking distance. Q110 rooms (109 singles,<br />
109 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHA6UGKW<br />
hh<br />
Centrum Dikul A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17-19, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 796 77 66, www.dikul.pl. Occupying a<br />
wonderfully restored Secession building opposite the<br />
Archaeology and Military museums, this comfortable<br />
hotel offers ample opportunities for pampering. Don’t<br />
let the façade fool you: inside it’s all contemporary<br />
moods, from the spacious common areas to the big<br />
doubles and generous single rooms you’ll be happy to<br />
return to after a hectic day. Every room - and we mean<br />
every room - is handicap-friendly: a first for Poland, we<br />
think. Q31 rooms (31 singles, 9 doubles). PTHA<br />
RUGW hhh<br />
Duet A-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785<br />
51 00, www.hotelduet.pl. For what you pay, you get a<br />
surprising amount of space here. Really. Terrific beds (and<br />
with the choice of twins or doubles you can be guaranteed<br />
that your double bed is a double bed, not two singles<br />
pushed together), great bathrooms and a location at the<br />
edge of the Old Town. The buffet breakfast is one of the<br />
best in the city, and when you add in the free wifi and<br />
friendly, multi-lingual service we think you’re on to a winner.<br />
Q39 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles, 4 apartments).<br />
PTHA6UKW hhh<br />
Europejski B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71<br />
772 10 00, www.silfor.pl. You may remember this<br />
place as a completely mediocre hotel with everything<br />
from carpets to curtains done up in a 1960s shade of<br />
chocolate brown; a tasty colour for cake, rather revolting<br />
used anywhere else. Well now the station-side monolith<br />
has gone orange and we can tell you you’ll have had<br />
quite enough of it as well after a three-day stay. That<br />
said, the fittings are all new and the amenities make for<br />
the same satisfactory stay you would have in any other<br />
identikit three star - neither memorable nor regrettable.<br />
Q96 rooms (17 singles, 67 doubles, 12 apartments).<br />
PTHAR6ULGKW hhh<br />
Europeum A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 371 45 00, www.europeum.pl. Just across<br />
the road from the Old Town you’ll find this super modern<br />
and super clean hotel behind a chic glass fronted building.<br />
Modern rooms are accessed with swipe cards and come<br />
with climate control, cable TV, refrigerator and fully soundproofed<br />
windows - the perfect solution to its busy central<br />
location. Both the hotel and adjoining restaurant (Brasserie<br />
27 - see restaurants) look way above their class, representing<br />
amazing value for money. Elegant without ever being kitsch.<br />
Q38 rooms (38 singles, 33 doubles). PTHARUF<br />
GKDwW hhh<br />
Marshal B-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 104/Gwarna 23,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 733 44 33, www.hotelmarshal.pl.<br />
Freshly scrubbed and spotlessly clean across from<br />
Wrocław’s main train station, you can’t beat the location<br />
which features magnificent views of the city’s grand<br />
transportation complex. A chic mirrored tunnel funnels<br />
you into the marble lobby, which hints at the luxury<br />
awaiting inside the rooms themselves - most of which<br />
are larger than any hotel room we’ve ever slept in; in<br />
fact, some are large enough for families of four. Q33<br />
rooms (33 singles, 32 doubles, 10 triples, 10 quads).<br />
HA6UGW hhh<br />
Novotel ul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71<br />
339 80 51, www.accorhotels.com. This squat 60s<br />
structure surrounded by flagpoles and conifers hides good<br />
value accommodation on the fringes of Wrocław. Subject<br />
of a recent rehab, Wrocław’s Novotel now includes 34<br />
deluxe rooms and a brand-new lobby. All the standards<br />
of this well-trusted brand have been followed if not<br />
exceeded here, so you can expect a chirpy multi-lingual<br />
staff, comfortable rooms and plenty of business travellers<br />
and tourist groups. Though the location 6km south<br />
of the Old Town may not seem ideal to those without a<br />
car, you can still get there by trams 9 and 16, getting off<br />
at the last stop. Q145 rooms (145 singles, 145 doubles).<br />
PTHA6UGKW hhh<br />
Patio A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71<br />
375 04 00, www.hotelpatio.pl. One of the city’s<br />
better accommodation options, Patio is a sumptuous<br />
hotel in a top location only minutes from the market<br />
square. Centred around a modern yet elegant atrium,<br />
the individually furnished rooms have been refurbished<br />
for maximum comfort, with high-speed internet, state<br />
of the art televisions, luxuriously decorated bathrooms,<br />
deep carpets and comfy armchairs. The high standards<br />
of service, decor and comfort also extend to the downstairs<br />
restaurant, which is one of the best around, with<br />
unbeatable lunchtime prices. Q51 rooms (42 singles,<br />
20 doubles, 8 apartments). PTJHAR6GK<br />
hhh<br />
Polonia A-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
10 21, www.poloniawroclaw.pl. Though not looking<br />
quite as plush as it did as the star of hundreds of 1930s<br />
postcards, the Polonia has recently been restored to<br />
3-star status and continues to offer ordinary, but big<br />
rooms for a fair price. Bathrooms are clean and relatively<br />
modern, though almost all have showers and not<br />
baths. For an affordable sleep around the station this<br />
is a good option. Q107 rooms (28 singles, 79 doubles).<br />
OTA6ULKW hhh<br />
Quality System Hotel Wrocław H-1, Al. Kromera<br />
16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.hotelsystem.<br />
pl. Clean cream colours lend a sharp modern look to<br />
the System and all rooms come equipped with their<br />
own PC and flatscreen TV. This is a real favourite with<br />
the corporate crowd though the cosmopolitan bar and<br />
wellness centre - complete with swimming pool - mean<br />
there’s plenty to occupy yourself with in those postconference<br />
moments. Q107 rooms (100 singles, 77<br />
doubles, 7 apartments). PTHAR6UFG<br />
KDCwW hhh<br />
Tumski C-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322<br />
60 88, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. While nothing to<br />
rhapsodise about, Tumski offers pleasant rooms staring<br />
across the Oder and new fixtures and fittings. The chief<br />
conference room, ‘The Black Hall’, on the other hand<br />
deviates from all norms; raise your eyebrows at beamed<br />
ceilings, faux chandeliers and parquet floors. Q57<br />
rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles, 3 triples, 1 apartment).<br />
TJHA6UGKW hhh<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
28 HOTELS<br />
Budget<br />
Akira Bed & Breakfast F-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. A thoroughly<br />
adequate log-sawing option just north of Wrocław’s centre,<br />
Akira offers rooms for one, two or three people at prices<br />
fairly comparable to a private room in a hostel. The facade<br />
of the century old building sadly outshines the interior of the<br />
small, unmemorable rooms, but each is equipped with its<br />
own bathroom, TV, internet, bed, pillow and roof under which<br />
you’ve enough space to stretch vertically and horizontally:<br />
honestly, what more do you need? Breakfast buffet? There’s<br />
that too. Q21 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles, 3 triples).<br />
AR6UGW<br />
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast A-1, ul. Pomorska<br />
32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82, www.cilantro.<br />
pl. A bit tricky to find, but completely worth the trouble.<br />
On the sixth floor (don’t worry, there’s an elevator) and<br />
offering plenty of privacy and comfort, Cilantro’s bright,<br />
modern and spacious rooms all feature large double<br />
beds and balconies and are subtly decorated in a way<br />
that puts a smile on your face. The great breakfast<br />
(included in the price) and the small size of the bill you<br />
get at the end of your stay will only make you smile<br />
more. Recommended. Q9 rooms (9 doubles, 3 triples).<br />
TA6LGW<br />
Ibis Budget ul. Wyścigowa 35a (Krzyki), tel. (+48)<br />
71 360 89 91, www.ibisbudget.com. This bland-foryour-buck<br />
budget option will do well to remind you that,<br />
in the end, a hotel is a hotel. Here’s a roof o’er your head<br />
and a comfortable bed. You won’t need to fumigate your<br />
room or hold-your-breath in the bathroom, and you may<br />
even find something worth watching on the satellite TV.<br />
And with the money you’ll save you can afford another<br />
holiday. The out-of-town location infers you’ve a car at<br />
your disposal and if you’ve issue with this perfectly satisfactory<br />
overnight offer, feel free to sleep in the driver’s<br />
seat. Q108 rooms (104 singles, 104 doubles, 4 triples).<br />
PTA6UGW h<br />
Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion ul. Lotnicza 151<br />
(Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84 48, www.etaphotel.<br />
com. When Wrocław’s new football stadium was built for<br />
Euro 2012, this spiffy new hotel popped up alongside of it.<br />
A full four kilometres from the Old Town, yet well-connected<br />
to it, Ibis combines super-cheap prices with trusted quality<br />
and space station style. The slightly cramped rooms look as<br />
though they’ve been designed to coordinate with the latest<br />
iBook, and feature free wireless, snazzy flatscreen satellite<br />
TVs and a breakfast buffet (not included in cost) where you<br />
can grub with the visiting sport heroes shacking here. Overall<br />
an incredible value. Q122 rooms (118 singles, 118 doubles,<br />
4 triples). PTA6UGW h<br />
U Szermierzy C-4, ul. Krasińskiego 30b, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 49 89, www.noclegwewroclawiu.pl. You may<br />
be tempted to turn around and plunk down your credit card<br />
some place swankier when you first see U Szermierzy’s<br />
courtyard. But to do so would be to miss out on the hotel<br />
experience you’ll find yourself later telling all the folks back<br />
home about. Staffed by fencers (the kind with swords, not<br />
stolen goods - really what could be safer?), this is the local<br />
swashbucklers’ club and you may be expected to be a spectator<br />
during combat training (if you choose not to participate,<br />
that is). As for the rooms, they’re small and the beds are<br />
tiny, but who you gonna complain to? Located smack in the<br />
centre, ring the bell to enter this strange world. Q10 rooms<br />
(3 singles, 4 doubles, 2 triples, 1 quad). GW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Apartments<br />
Apartamenty Przyjazne Lokum A-3, ul. Biskupia<br />
10, tel. (+48) 602 40 74 07, www.przyjaznelokum.pl.<br />
Booking an apartment is not only a much more comfortable<br />
and independent way to approach accommodation,<br />
but if you’re travelling in a group it can be a much better<br />
value. Allow us to demonstrate: Taking their Galeria apartment<br />
as an example, here you’ve got room for 8 people in<br />
a second floor pad mere minutes from the market square<br />
with a fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, stove, oven,<br />
toaster, kettle, iron etc. for only 170-480zł a night, depending<br />
on how many friends you bring along. Put a couple in<br />
each of the three double beds and you’re barely cracking<br />
15 Euro per person, for more freedom and better facilities<br />
than you’ll find elsewhere for twice the money. If you can<br />
find a better option, you better let us know. Q12 rooms<br />
(12 apartments). PTAR6W<br />
Art Apart D-4, ul. Walońska 9-13, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
07 38, www.artapart.pl. Well-located right on the banks<br />
of the Odra River, these apartments in a brand-new luxury<br />
apartment building are operated by the same team behind<br />
Avantgarde Hostel. Modern and minimal in design with inroom<br />
kitchens, built into the counter electric range-tops,<br />
large beds and spacious bathrooms, this is a great option<br />
for those seeking a bit more space and privacy. Prices are<br />
negotiable and most certainly cheaper than a hotel room of<br />
similar standard. Whether you intend to use the kitchen or<br />
not, that’s a no-brainer in our book. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).<br />
AR6G<br />
Exclusive Apartments B-3, ul. Krawiecka 3/10,<br />
tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.exclusiveapartments.<br />
pl. As the name suggests, Exclusive is here to provide<br />
designer living to the itinerant traveller. Ranging from 32<br />
to 80 square metres, there are a number of locations<br />
to choose from, each one coming with kitchen facilities,<br />
ironing boards and cable TV. For something utterly sexy<br />
check out the Opium 2 apartment, decked out with<br />
ultra-stylish fittings and cream and caramel colours. If<br />
there’s six of you then don’t look beyond the Mizurii, a<br />
chic three room affair with a corner tub, 32 inch flatscreen<br />
TV and underground parking. And at these prices, it’s<br />
an absolute giveaway. Q55 rooms (55 apartments).<br />
PTAGW<br />
Leoapart B-2, ul. Więzienna 21/36-37, tel. (+48)<br />
71 330 71 21, www.apartmentswroclaw.pl. A<br />
great alternative to a hotel is your own apartment in<br />
the city which gives you extra privacy, space and the<br />
chance to feel like a local during your stay. This easy<br />
to navigate website details upwards of 50 throughout<br />
Wrocław with photos, maps and other pertinent info<br />
in English, Polish and German. Prices are conveniently<br />
listed in both euro and złoty, making this one of the<br />
best resources at your disposal. Airport transfers also<br />
available. Q50 rooms (50 apartments 150 - 400zł).<br />
PTAR6LGKW<br />
Wrocław Capital Apartments B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza<br />
15/4, tel. (+48) 71 341 73 55, www.capitalapart.pl. As<br />
far as we know, being on vacation is about getting trousered,<br />
not wearing them. Like-minded itinerants can have all the<br />
independence they require to feel at home while abroad by<br />
booking into their very own apartment. With several central<br />
locations to choose from, all of Capital’s Wrocław apartments<br />
are modern and equipped with all the accoutrements for<br />
an extended stay, including laundry. Q16 rooms (16 apartments).<br />
PTAR6LGW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
HOTELS<br />
September - December 2012<br />
29
30 HOTELS<br />
ApartHotel Old Town Wrocław<br />
Fast and easy online booking<br />
ul. Wiezienna 21/36<br />
Tel. +48 71 330 71 21, +48 509 508 491<br />
booking@leoapart.com<br />
www.leoapart.com<br />
Edith Stein<br />
Born in Breslau, 1891, the case of Edith Stein has long<br />
divided those of Catholic and Jewish faith. Originally<br />
raised as a Jew she converted to Christianity after<br />
reading the life story of St Teresa of Avila, marking<br />
New Years’ Day, 1922 with her baptism. For the next<br />
nine years she taught in a girls school in Speyer,<br />
before finally landing a lecturing post in Munster in<br />
1932. Her new role was short-lived – Hitler’s ascent<br />
to power brought with it a set of strict racial laws, and<br />
she found herself forced to resign her position. Her<br />
letter to Pope Pius XI denouncing Hitler fell on deaf<br />
ears, and so she entered the Discalced Carmelite Monastrey<br />
in Cologne in 1933. Taking the name Teresa<br />
Benedicta of the Cross she penned numerous books<br />
and studies on spiritualism, and fled westwards to the<br />
Netherlands to escape growing fascist persecution.<br />
It was to prove in vain; in retaliation for comments<br />
made by the Dutch Bishops’ Conference, Dutch Reich<br />
Master Arthur-Seyss-<strong>In</strong>quart ordered the immediate<br />
arrest of all Jews who had converted to Christianity.<br />
Both Stein and her sister, Rosa, were packed off to<br />
Auschwitz where they were gassed to death on August<br />
9, 1942. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1987<br />
after a young girl made a miraculous recovery having<br />
taken a massive overdose of Tylenol. Medical opinion<br />
was confounded, with the miracle credited to prayers<br />
dedicated to Teresa. The process for sainthood was<br />
set in motion, and finally came full circle when she was<br />
canonized in 1998. However, since then both Jews<br />
and Catholics have squabbled and fought over her<br />
sainthood, each claiming her as their own.<br />
Hostels<br />
It wasn’t long ago that staying in a Wrocław hostel meant<br />
sleeping on a metal cot in a humourless Soviet-style dormitory<br />
run by a stern Polish babcia who locked the doors promptly at<br />
23:00 and didn’t entertain English-language appeals from late<br />
arrivals. Fortunately Wrocław’s discovery and development<br />
into a first-rate travel destination has changed all that, and<br />
today you’ll find the quality, quantity and value of hostels in<br />
Wrocław very high, with each subsequent opening seeming to<br />
raise the standard even more. The market is currently at its<br />
peak, and though your choices are varied and higher in volume<br />
than ever before, it’s still important to book ahead. While we<br />
don’t have space here to list every bunk in town, we’ve made<br />
an effort to include the best on the market. Sleep it off.<br />
Absynt Hostel A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48)<br />
691 40 54 05, www.absynthostel.pl. Stunningly chic<br />
and well-equipped, this hip, high-standard hostel right in the<br />
midst of the ul. Ruska nightlife action offers stylish rooms and<br />
dorms with lockers, a large, brightly-coloured common room<br />
and kitchen, satellite TV and two computers with internet.<br />
With 38 rooms accommodating 1-4 sleepers in the hostel<br />
itself, Absinthe’s offer has recently expanded to include over<br />
20 different outstandingly equipped apartments as well;<br />
that’s a tonne of options, and a good chance that there’s<br />
availability somewhere. Check their website for seasonal<br />
promotions that make this bottom budget sleeper even more<br />
of a bargain. Q38 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles, 5 triples, 4<br />
quads, 21 apartments, 20 Dorm beds). PTA6GW<br />
Avantgarde B-5, ul. Kościuszki 55, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
07 38, www.avantgardehostel.pl. A superbly modern<br />
hostel, dorms come fitted with steel frame bunks, while a limit<br />
of seven to a room ensure minimal risk of having your rest<br />
interrupted by drunken oafs snoring away or randy couples<br />
giving the bed springs a workout. Metallic grey and tangerine<br />
colours prevail throughout, adding a sharp aesthetic, while<br />
every detail and fitting shines and sparkles. Bed linen and<br />
towels are supplied gratis, some rooms come with showers<br />
and TVs, and other common facilities include high-speed<br />
internet, DVDs and a full kitchen. <strong>In</strong> fact they were doing so<br />
well that they added an additional 53 sleeping places in the<br />
same building under the banner of Ale Hostel before bringing<br />
this range of dorms and private rooms, all incidentally<br />
decorated by local designers, back under the Avantgarde<br />
name. Q56 rooms (5 singles, 23 doubles, 5 triples, 163<br />
Dorm beds). A6GW<br />
Boogie E-4, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72,<br />
www.boogiehostel.com. One more hostel to add to<br />
Wrocław’s ever growing list, and it’s not bad at all. Features of<br />
note include a great spiral staircase inside a brick tower, lots<br />
of timber frames and a Playstation in the fabulous common<br />
room, which is every bit as sexy as a pink pussycat; think<br />
low banquettes, purple colours and weird wallpaper. Facilities<br />
include their own bar, a fully stocked kitchen, bullet-fast<br />
internet and a DVD collection, while accommodation comes<br />
split between private rooms and dorms decked out with<br />
single beds - so no chance of the bloke in the upstairs bunk<br />
stepping on your head. Quite an experience, and those with<br />
an aversion to spiral stairs can catch a ride in the lift. Q21<br />
rooms (2 singles, 9 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads, 23 Dorm<br />
beds). TA6GW<br />
Chopper Hostel F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 37 81, www.chopperhostel.pl. As far as we can tell,<br />
this is actually the hostel we stayed in when we first came<br />
to Wrocław back in 2006. Of course that was when it was<br />
just an anonymous guesthouse, before most of the hostels<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
listed in this guide ever came into existence, and long before<br />
you needed something like a motorbike theme to distinguish<br />
yourself from the pack. Aside from a small wall mural in<br />
each dorm room, the theme isn’t as offensive as you might<br />
anticipate, with the overriding design motif actually being the<br />
sturdy, masculine timber furnishings. Aside from free internet<br />
amenities are limited, and the common area seems to be the<br />
attached bar/restaurant, where the design concept is fully<br />
seen through to fruition and numerous events take place on<br />
the weekends. Note that hostel prices also increase slightly<br />
on weekends. Q18 rooms (6 doubles, 4 quads, 52 Dorm<br />
beds). AGKW<br />
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 787<br />
75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. It is not the best hostel<br />
in Poland for nothing. With its big dorms, good bathrooms<br />
and terrific common room (where there are always travellers<br />
ready to spin you a yarn or two) and off-beat, happy staff,<br />
Mleczarnia has a recipe for success and sticks to it. For<br />
those who like a bit more privacy the doubles with their own<br />
bathrooms are tremendous (we had a pair of vintage skis in<br />
ours, which kind of sums the place up), and the apartment<br />
(in a separate building close to the Rynek) is well worth a<br />
splurge. Q8 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad,<br />
34 Dorm beds). TA6GW<br />
Moon Hostel A-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance from<br />
Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,<br />
www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. Like a lot of places in<br />
Wroclaw, this one is a bit hard to find as there are few signs<br />
to guide you through the tunnel entrance, then the courtyard,<br />
and finally up the elevator to the third floor. However, once<br />
inside you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the amount of common<br />
areas, soothing blue décor, ample kitchen and a great<br />
little play area for kids. Although the rooms have up to eight<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
HOTELS<br />
The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.<br />
ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław, tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl<br />
e-mail: rezerwacja@mleczarniahostel.pl<br />
beds, they never group you in with strangers; only the people<br />
you know and checked in with. With a friendly albeit more<br />
mature vibe, Moon Hostel is only about a five-minute walk<br />
from the Rynek and closer still to the late-night Mecca otherwise<br />
known as Pasaż Niepolda off of Ruska. Q22 rooms<br />
(5 singles, 8 doubles, 4 triples, 4 quads). A6LGW<br />
The One Hostel B-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71 337<br />
24 02, www.theonehostel.pl. One of Wrocław’s most<br />
modern hostels, this restored 14th century townhouse on the<br />
market square offers simple dormitory rooms with fantastic<br />
views of the Town Hall that will really make you feel like you are<br />
in the very heart of the action. Double rooms and Japanese<br />
capsules are also available. <strong>In</strong> terms of frills, the standard<br />
is high, but there aren’t a whole lot of extras. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />
location, however, this really is ‘The One.’ Q20 rooms (6<br />
singles, 6 doubles, 2 quads, 90 Dorm beds). THAGW<br />
Wratislavia C-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel. (+48) 71<br />
360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. With help from the<br />
EU, this handsome 19th century tenement 10 mins from the<br />
train station and market square has been transformed into<br />
a modern backpackers’ paradise. One of Wrocław’s largest<br />
hostels with 126 places, rooms range from 6-bed dorms to<br />
private suites and even 10 apartments with kitchen annexes.<br />
All include en-suite bathrooms so you’re never sharing the<br />
plumbing with more than 6 people, and guests have access<br />
to the internet cafe, guest kitchen, large dining room, common<br />
room, lockers, self-serve laundry, free tea, coffee and<br />
breakfast. The camaraderie quotient is high thanks to an<br />
enthusiastic staff and lots of common space, but Wratislavia<br />
is also perfect for those want a hostel atmosphere they can<br />
close the door on when they’ve had enough. Q33 rooms (2<br />
singles, 4 doubles, 3 triples, 17 quads, 10 apartments, 37<br />
Dorm beds). AR6UGW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
31
32 RESTAURANTS<br />
Dining at a Glance<br />
The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław<br />
is ever improving - as is the quality of service - and<br />
the city’s respectable number of international restaurants<br />
reflects its status as a thriving urban centre.<br />
While <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> once tried to list every eatery<br />
in the city centre, the expansion of the market and<br />
sheer redundancy of many restaurants (upscale<br />
Italian anyone?) now make that pursuit impractical.<br />
<strong>In</strong> our dining section you’ll find reviews of the most<br />
noteworthy and high-profile establishments in town,<br />
from those well-hidden places you shouldn’t miss, to<br />
prime locations you should swerve. While our print<br />
guide carries a large selection of restaurants, you’ll<br />
find even more on our website, where we encourage<br />
you to leave your own reviews of the places you’ve<br />
visited.<br />
All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited<br />
and updated regularly. The figures we quote in brackets<br />
represent the least and most expensive main courses<br />
on the menu. The hours we list are not the opening<br />
hours, but the times between which you can expect the<br />
chef to be working.<br />
Below are some specific recommendations depending<br />
on what you might be looking for.<br />
SPLURGE:<br />
By common consent JaDka remains Wrocław’s best<br />
restaurant, though Le Bistrot Parisien isn’t far behind<br />
in our book. For fine dining in an unforgettable location<br />
head to Wieza Cieśnień’s water tower terrace,<br />
the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja Acquario, or<br />
Pergola overlooking the Wrocław Fountain. Japanese<br />
eatery Darea offers scope for extravagance, while Da<br />
Andrea and Brasserie 27 could have you reaching<br />
for your plastic.<br />
CHEAP:<br />
Local institutions Kuchnia Marche and Multifood<br />
STP (see Quick Eats) offer surprisingly good<br />
food priced by weight, and if you’re really on the<br />
cheap you can wait until 30mins before closing<br />
when they cut their prices in half. If you’re loco<br />
enough to go full local, it doesn’t get cheaper or<br />
more authentic than a Milk Bar in the afternoon,<br />
or Zakąski Przekąski for a late night refill (see<br />
box in Nightlife).<br />
LADS:<br />
Capri is the default pizza choice, while the busty maidens<br />
of the Bierhalle and Spiż breweries, along with the<br />
costumed gents of Pod Fredra, will keep you piled with<br />
beer and brats all day and night. Alternatively, head to<br />
Winners (see Bars) for precision steaks with a view of<br />
the match.<br />
COUPLES:<br />
The rooftop Restauracja Acquario of the Hotel<br />
Monopol was made for proposals and other romantic<br />
moments, and JaDka always impresses<br />
with its high quality food. Boats routinely score<br />
high romantically, so feel like you’re on one by<br />
taking a table overlooking the harbour at Marina<br />
or Przystań, or go for the real thing at Barka<br />
Tumska.<br />
American<br />
America Bar & Grill E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia<br />
Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 50 94, www.americarestaurant.pl.<br />
With Rodeo Drive disappearing from the Rynek,<br />
those desperate for American bar fare may have to heave<br />
their hungry, homesick, unhealthy hearts out to the Magnolia<br />
Park shopping complex to indulge in fried food, burgers and<br />
barbecue. Formerly Wrocław’s TGI Friday’s, the name and<br />
management may have changed but the food and quality are<br />
just as familiar as before, with decent steaks, sandwiches,<br />
shakes and tall sodas (with free refills!). QOpen 09:00 -<br />
21:00. (19-48zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Rodeo Grill Steak House A-2, ul. Więzienna 21<br />
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71. Hardly the<br />
kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from the name,<br />
this steakhouse does a surprisingly good job of maintaining<br />
the high standards of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern<br />
restaurant corridor. Burgers are sequestered to only a brief<br />
requisite mention at the end of the placemat menu - primarily<br />
a range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and rib-eye,<br />
prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our roast beef was<br />
commendable, but if you want your meat other than medium<br />
rare, make sure you say so (no one asked us). An excellent<br />
beer list includes Svyturys Baltas (a personal fave), La Trappe,<br />
Bishop’s Finger, Opat (a Czech pepper-infused pilsner on draft)<br />
and others specifically selected to complement steak. The<br />
simple, airy interior is neither too classy nor too casual and has<br />
a friendly family atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its<br />
patrons. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). PA6GSW<br />
Armenian<br />
Armine A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 83, tel. (+48) 71<br />
367 15 31, www.armine.com.pl. Given a makeover, this<br />
brilliant budget place is now better than ever. The Asatryan<br />
family who own and run it seem to know everyone who comes<br />
through the door at Armine, which appears to be a second<br />
home for much of Wrocław’s Armenian community. If you’ve<br />
come for the food, not a chat and a vodka, the owners grill<br />
shish kebabs on an open coal fire and fill your table with<br />
salads, pilaf and dolma. We love it. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.<br />
(20-30zł). PJA6GBS<br />
French<br />
NEW<br />
La Vie En Rose ul. Czysta 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 783 44 55,<br />
www.restauracjalavieenrose.com. Named after Edith Piaf’s<br />
signature song, Wrocław now has a second French restaurant<br />
(after the popular Le Bistrot Parisien). The only trouble is it’s a<br />
bit hard to find in an odd location behind the Renoma shopping<br />
complex. That and it was unexpectedly closed on the occasion<br />
when we were able to drop by, two factors which surely aren’t<br />
helping it overtake its competition for the banner of ‘best French<br />
cuisine in Wrocław.’ However the modern red and grey interior<br />
(with the requisite images of Paris) and outdoor terrace with its<br />
fountain and sculpture art all make it look promising enough for<br />
us to come by for a full review next time. Let us know what sort<br />
of experience you had by leaving a comment on our website.<br />
QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.<br />
(21-59zł). PTA6UGBSW<br />
Le Bistrot Parisien A-2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. (+48)<br />
71 341 05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. This ambitious<br />
‘bistro’ pays homage to Paris with period photos of the French<br />
capital and readymade meal sets including appetiser, entree<br />
and dessert. The prices may seem preciously Parisian as<br />
well, but the food is of exceptional quality, including staples<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
like frog legs, French onion soup, fried snails and the wine to<br />
complement them. A popular congregation point of expats,<br />
the staff are very friendly, flirty and accommodating; and<br />
as such, in no way French. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 -<br />
22:00. (31-63zł). JAGBSW<br />
Greek<br />
Akropolis A-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13,<br />
www.akropolis.wroc.pl. Apparently Plac Solny just wasn’t<br />
central enough for the Greeks, as they’ve packed up and<br />
plonked themselves in a handsome new location smack on<br />
the Rynek. Seems they’ve also traded up with the interior<br />
design, swapping breezy seaside villa for a dark wood, winewarm<br />
elegance more befitting the historic townhouse it now<br />
occupies. <strong>In</strong>deed the gold and lavender walls seem to compel<br />
you to buy an obligatory bottle of red. Remaining is Akropolis’<br />
Godfather factor, where well-dressed patrons wine and dine<br />
their dames in what is still one of the best ethnic restaurants<br />
in the region. The menu of seafood and Greek meats from the<br />
grill hits the mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (28-80zł). PTJAGBSW<br />
Akropol Na Solnym F-4, Pl. Solny 18/19, tel. (+48) 71<br />
788 81 42, www.akropolrestaurant.pl. High-end Greek dining,<br />
with music, ambience and decor to match. Choose from a<br />
menu of steak, shrimp, salads and classics such as the very tasty<br />
Moussaka. The interior is a sea of cream and gold with a spiral<br />
staircase leading to a mezzanine floor overlooking the bar and<br />
main dining room with hanging lights. Feast to the soothing sound<br />
of a trickling water feature. Polish owned, though you’d hardly know<br />
it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30-75zł). PTAUBXSW<br />
Greco A-3, Rynek 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 29 12, www.<br />
grecja.pl. Both looking and feeling rather Greek (as you would<br />
expect, given the name) this place serves a great selection<br />
of fish (all flown in fresh), big Greek salads with proper feta<br />
cheese (and not the local variety), plenty of grilled meats and<br />
the odd kebab. Amazingly good service given how busy it can<br />
get. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (9-60zł). PTAGBSW<br />
<strong>In</strong>dian<br />
Masala <strong>In</strong>dian Restaurant B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 3, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Well-positioned<br />
just off the market square, Masala does traditional <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
food in a more contemporary European style as <strong>In</strong>dian chefs<br />
work in plain view behind two long bars in the offbeat granite<br />
gray interior full of comical, conical hanging lamps, pop art<br />
elephants and colourful seat cushions. The 12-30zł Express<br />
Lunch (served 11:00 - 15:00, Mon-Fri) fills the seats and represents<br />
not only a great bargain, but a great deal of delicious<br />
food. The regular menu hits all the marks and portions are<br />
larger than most places, earning our earnest recommendation.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (12-70zł). PTAVGBSW<br />
Spice <strong>In</strong>dia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15a, tel. (+48)<br />
71 794 80 44, www.spiceindia.pl. This upscale <strong>In</strong>dian<br />
eatery offers a large menu of eastern classics prepared<br />
with your choice of chicken, lamb, mutton, fish or strictly<br />
veggie, small portions demand that you order a side of rice<br />
and things can quickly become pricey for those that can’t<br />
resist samosas and a mango lassi; fortunately you can<br />
stop in during lunch (12:00-17:00) for max value meal sets<br />
(20-25zł). An elegant, primarily white interior is enlivened by<br />
colourful place settings, paper lanterns and wall hangings,<br />
where svelte belly-dancers occasionally gyrate. All around<br />
authentic and appreciated. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-45zł).<br />
PTAUGSW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Get to know the original and chic<br />
character of French cuisine<br />
ul. Nożownicza 1D<br />
071- 341-05-65<br />
info@lebistrotparisien.pl<br />
www.lebistrotparisien.pl<br />
Tipping Tribulations<br />
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners.<br />
While in other countries it’s perfectly normal and even<br />
courteous to say ‘thanks’ when the wait staff comes to<br />
collect the bill, you’ll be startled to learn that in Poland uttering<br />
the word ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even ‘thank you’<br />
in English, is an indication that you don’t want any change<br />
back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing, not<br />
to mention aggravating, if you’re later forced to track down<br />
your server and shamefully ask for your change. <strong>In</strong> order to<br />
avoid these situations, we strongly suggest that you only<br />
say ‘thank you’ when the service of your waiter/waitress is<br />
no longer needed and you are happy for them to keep all of<br />
the change. When that’s not the case, the word you need<br />
learn is ‘proszę’ (pronounced pro-sheh). Meaning ‘please’<br />
in Polish, this is a vital social cue that translates to ‘yes, I<br />
want all of my change, no matter how small it is.’<br />
Despite the fact that the standards of service in Poland<br />
have skyrocketed in the last decade, the average waiter/<br />
waitress in this country still only makes a paltry 8-12zł/hr,<br />
and a customary tip is still only 10% of the meal’s total<br />
(though being a foreigner may make staff expectant of<br />
a bit more generosity). Those numbers look pretty low to<br />
us, so we strongly encourage you to reward good service<br />
when you feel it’s deserved.<br />
Finally, it is not common practice to add the tip to your<br />
credit card payment because the wait staff are then<br />
forced to pay tax on the gratuity; most likely you will not<br />
even have an opportunity to leave a tip on your card. For<br />
that reason, try to have some change handy so you<br />
can still leave a cash tip, or ask your server for change<br />
if you need to.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
33
34 RESTAURANTS<br />
Quick Eats<br />
BLT & Flatbreads A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48)<br />
71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. This upscale<br />
American-inspired (free ketchup without asking! large<br />
sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances a somewhat<br />
grimy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing) with a<br />
sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior to great effect. The<br />
menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact that a<br />
decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as such<br />
it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide diversity of quickly<br />
served variations on the BLT, Philly cheesesteak and<br />
burger. The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on<br />
flatbread are creative, the presentation is top notch and<br />
the prices are fair and affordable across the board. Open<br />
late, so you’ve got time to get a couple cheeky ones in<br />
with the crowd stumbling past the window before stopping<br />
by. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 00:30,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35zł). PAUGBSW<br />
Kuchnia Marche A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 95 65, www.marche.com.pl. For something<br />
completely different, visit this colourful food bazaar where<br />
the chefs are at work right in front of you. A bit confusing<br />
for the uninitiated, receive a card at the door and get it<br />
stamped as you wander the food stations making selections<br />
from amongst the Polish, Italian, Asian and Turkish<br />
cuisine on hand, before paying upon completion of your<br />
meal. Fresh and cheap with something to suit all tastes, a<br />
particular standout is the Asian counter where the Asian<br />
chef’s Polish accent may actually be more amusing than<br />
our own. The cheerful canteen atmosphere is dutifully filled<br />
with student diners, many taking advantage of the fact that<br />
everything is reduced in price by 25% from 19:30-20:00,<br />
Mon-Fri, and by 50% after that. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (11-20zł). PTAUVGSW<br />
Multifood STP B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 501<br />
10 34 01, www.multifoodstp.pl. A large self-service<br />
canteen whose counters come manned with cheerful<br />
red clad staff touting sun visors and t-shirts. The dining<br />
hall is largely anonymous, but the food - plates of meat<br />
and veg - has won a loyal student following. Everything<br />
is priced at 3.29zł per 100 grams, with your bill worked<br />
out once you reach the end of the queue. Fast, easy, affordable,<br />
good. Additional locations in Magnolia Park (E-4,<br />
ul. Legnicka 58), Pasaż Grunwaldzki (H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki<br />
22), Centrum Korona (ul. Krzywoustego 126) and Marino<br />
Shopping Centre (ul. Paprotna 7). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
PTAUGBSW<br />
Pita Pan A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 667 00<br />
15 99. Playing off the Polish word for ‘mister’ (pan) and<br />
Peter Pan at the same time, this cleverly-named sidewalk<br />
bar serves surprisingly cheap, filling and authentic Greek<br />
fast food. If (like many of us) you’re sick of chicken and<br />
pork, Pita Pan’s popular souvlaki - a fluffy pita wrapped<br />
around delicious, well-seasoned lamb, red onion, tomato,<br />
and crispy, thick-cut fries topped with real tzatziki sauce<br />
(not powdered garlic sauce) - puts local kebabs to shame.<br />
The Greek salad - with feta cheese and olives straight<br />
from Greece - also makes this reputable establishment<br />
a popular destination for a quick meal in the city centre.<br />
Modest in design, with only a couple tables inside and on<br />
the sidewalk, the food ranks with the best Greek cuisine<br />
in Wrocław, and late weekend hours allow you to take full<br />
advantage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.<br />
(12-18zł). 6UGBSW<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />
Aquarelle C-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson<br />
Blu Hotel Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00,<br />
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. What really<br />
caught our eye on the menu here was the good<br />
selection of cheap, simple kid’s dishes (all priced<br />
around 20zł): a rarity in Poland. For grown ups the<br />
selection is no less varied, though the prices are<br />
higher. We always go for the break-the-bank expensive<br />
but sublime Argentinean steaks, which come<br />
with a choice of side dishes, but there is fish and<br />
pasta too. A seasonal courtyard terrace complete<br />
with lawn is an added bonus for families searching for<br />
somewhere to eat. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (38-110zł).<br />
PTA6UGBW<br />
Barka Tumska C-1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.<br />
pl. The city’s first river restaurant, and once again<br />
Wrocław gets it right on the first try. Nestled between<br />
the proliferation of islands and bridges just near<br />
Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers no<br />
less than five unique dining rooms over three levels,<br />
including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper<br />
deck with room for 80 people to take in the sights<br />
and sunshine. The menu is an inventive mix of local<br />
and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine featuring stuffed<br />
quail, duck in cherry sauce, cheesecake drizzled with<br />
raspberry sauce and dozens of other reasons to<br />
stowaway on this good ship. A smart place to bring a<br />
date or the whole family: kids get their own menu and<br />
play area and will love exploring the corridors of this<br />
unique river diner. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (30-50zł).<br />
PTAUGBW<br />
Bernard B-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54,<br />
www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. We’ll go along with the<br />
crowd and admit that this trendy brewery/restaurant is<br />
one of the most alluring ‘locales’ on the market square.<br />
A stylish, airy, three-level interior with a long inviting<br />
bar, Bernard is characterised by closely arranged<br />
tables which don’t offer any privacy but contribute to<br />
the casual atmosphere where the menu is your placemat<br />
and it’s perfectly acceptable to just enjoy a drink<br />
without eating. To that end, they have their own beer<br />
in dark and light, as well as bottled choices including<br />
a decent amber and four alcky-free flavours which we<br />
wouldn’t know anything about; enjoy their draughts in<br />
glasses growing from .4 to 2 litres. The food is nothing<br />
to overlook with a menu ranging from nachos to Polish<br />
classics like golonka and the upper level tables in the<br />
window are a great place to take your date, but reserve<br />
ahead. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 24:00.<br />
(29-75zł). PTA6UEXSW<br />
Bierhalle A-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601<br />
67 74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. A veritable lads magnet,<br />
this tourist gobbling franchise features busty farmers’<br />
daughters in faux-folk costumes bussing steins of unpasteurised<br />
site-brewed beer to patrons busy stuffing<br />
themselves on sausages, ribs, pork knuckle and other<br />
meaty feasts with fries. The seasonal outdoor seating<br />
does well to capture the spirit of the name, though the<br />
unremarkable interior is a bit like every other place you’ve<br />
ever spilled a beer in, though you may be more remorseful<br />
to have done so here due to each ale’s surprising quality<br />
and cost. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. From November<br />
open 11:00 - 24:00. (15-40zł). PTA6GBSW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
36 RESTAURANTS<br />
Lwia Brama (Lion's Gate) Restaurant<br />
in Wroclaw invites you!<br />
You will fi nd us in the heart<br />
of the oldest part of Wrocław - Cathedral Island.<br />
Enjoy a quiet and gentle environment, that is peaceful<br />
and elegant with delicious cuisine.<br />
ul. Katedralna 9, 50-328 Wrocław<br />
restauracja@lwiabrama.pl, www.lwiabrama.pl<br />
Tel. +48 880 002 742<br />
Brasserie 27 A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum<br />
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.<br />
com. Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by<br />
the hotel Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A<br />
mega modern, glass fronted appearance is complemented<br />
by designer hanging lights and dark woods. The reassuringly<br />
short menu starts with Italian and spans steak and also fish<br />
dishes, staying mostly within the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine.<br />
Friendly service and an award winning chef make this one<br />
of the better places in the city to eat. Q Open 07:00 - 10:30,<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (30-55zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Cegielnia B-2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel.<br />
(+48) 693 97 40 05. This simple, stylish eatery is distinguished<br />
by the black wooden cutlery dangling everywhere.<br />
The food’s not bad either, with huge bowls of basics like salads<br />
and pasta, as well as toasted sandwiches and ciabattas<br />
going for budget prices. Fast and healthy, Cegielnia is an ideal<br />
place to start the night with handsome wine and cocktail lists<br />
making it a trendy place to drink as well. Place your order at<br />
the bar, as they can’t seem to decide whether they actually<br />
have table service or not. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun<br />
12:00 - 23:30. (8-22zł). PTJGBSW<br />
Cesarsko-Królewska A-3, Rynek 19, tel. (+48) 71<br />
341 92 07, www.restauracja-ck.pl. An impressive effort<br />
with three vaulted banquet halls designed to evoke the empire<br />
spirit of Vienna, Prague and Budapest. Muskets and framed<br />
pictures hang from the walls and aproned staff rush around<br />
polishing cutlery and straightening table cloths. On the menu<br />
duck, rabbit, boar and other central European classics, while<br />
the cellar houses a huge range of whisky and gourmet vodka.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (19-139zł). PTJABXSW<br />
Cynamon H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 23-27, tel. (+48) 605<br />
86 07 24, www.cynamonbar.pl. Well placed to capture the<br />
local lunch market (there is an office building above and a university/student<br />
dorms opposite), Cynamon serves perfectly<br />
good if not award winning pizza, pasta and salads, all priced<br />
by the weight (29,90zł/kg, if you’re asking). We wouldn’t travel<br />
this far out of town specifically to come here, but if you are<br />
in the area it’s worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 11:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PA6UBXSW<br />
Kuchnia A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 61, tel. (+48) 519<br />
15 69 05. Bookending the Bogusławskiego beer boulevard,<br />
Kuchnia is the ideal place to fortify your stomach while kicking<br />
off your pub crawl. This modest, domestically designed<br />
good eats kitchen offers salads, pasta, risotto and meat<br />
dishes in absolutely huge portions for next to nothing. But<br />
most importantly, here you’ll enjoy another obscure Czech<br />
beer option unique to its neighbours: Litovel. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:00. (15-66zł). AGBS<br />
NEW<br />
Lwia Brama C-2, ul. Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27<br />
42, www.lwiabrama.pl. One of the few places you’ll actually<br />
find anything to eat if you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama<br />
offers some great sidewalk seating in the warmer months<br />
from which you can enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the<br />
lamplighter to come round and perform that most romantic of<br />
Wrocław rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. <strong>In</strong><br />
winter the underground cellars aren’t as sprawling as you might<br />
expect, but they’re certainly kept warm by the pizza oven and<br />
the history of the building makes them atmospheric enough.<br />
The menu here sticks to the staples - namely pizzas and Polish<br />
dishes - however there’s news that they’re now introducing<br />
molecular cuisine. Besides, you’ll be hard pressed to find much<br />
else to eat on this side of the river. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Mon<br />
12:00 - 21:00. (26-40zł). TA6GBSW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Marina B-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 71 794 00<br />
01, www.marina.wroc.pl. Very nice indeed. Seafood and<br />
pasta on Wroclaw’s mini-marina, with a small terrace offering<br />
views over the canal and the odd boat that uses it. Checkout<br />
what the dish of the day is before ordering it. They’ve recently<br />
re-styled the interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and<br />
the outdoor garden area is great in the evening for pleasant<br />
views and quiet conversation. If the weather chills or your<br />
mood changes head inside for a cosy cocktail or two. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
11:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine Lounge A-3, ul. Św.<br />
Mikołaja 12, tel. (+48) 71 798 35 11, www.mosaiq.<br />
pl. Fine dining at its most chic, Mosaiq offers an impressive<br />
menu with a French motif complemented by rare seafood<br />
specialties and an international flair. The English-trained<br />
chefs make so certain that all their ingredients are fresh<br />
that they boast there’s no refrigerator on site (though we’re<br />
not sure that’s a comfort, plus the ice cream on the menu<br />
disagrees). Unique dishes and specialties such as ray fish,<br />
American-style pancakes, and an array of tartar-style meats<br />
and steaks draw you in, and the enormous wine cellar can<br />
keep you longer than you expected. Although their orientation<br />
is toward a business clientele, their Monday to Saturday lunch<br />
special is a great value. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-120zł).<br />
PTAUGBSW<br />
Pergola Bistro I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71<br />
347 50 21, www.restauracja-pergola.pl. The renovation<br />
of Centennial Hall included the opening of Pergola: a<br />
large modern restaurant with two kitchens and two dining<br />
rooms, one elegant and one casual. Both feature wall to floor<br />
windows with great views of the Wrocław Fountain and surrounding<br />
park; in summer you can catch the water and light<br />
show from your seat, and in winter watch families floundering<br />
around the ice rink. The bistro side has an upscale Ikea<br />
design sense with large white plastic chairs, white tables and<br />
unique light fixtures shaped like jumping jacks. The food is a<br />
standard but satisfying array of Polish meat and fish mains,<br />
pasta, salad and soup, and though a fraction of the cost of<br />
the adjacent restaurant, still a bit overpriced in our opinion.<br />
You’re taxed for the view we presume, but it’s worth it. Q<br />
Open 10:00 - 22:00. From November open 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
(22-39zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Long known as<br />
a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be forgotten that the<br />
Pod - in the plummest of plum locations on the Rynek - serves<br />
up some rather good food too. Take advantage of the threecourse<br />
28zł lunch menu, served Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait<br />
until evening when the terrific veal steaks will set you up very<br />
nicely for a night of cocktail consumption. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 23:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -<br />
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (36-80zł). TJAEGBSW<br />
Pod Złotym Psem (Under the Golden Dog) B-3,<br />
Rynek 41, tel. (+48) 71 372 37 60. Down, down, down you<br />
go into level after level of labyrinthe Rynek cellars, however<br />
the most popular spot here is under the golden parasol on<br />
the market square. As such, the Golden Dog asks you to pay<br />
tourist prices, but it’s only as nice as you want it to be: keep<br />
it simple and affordable with a straight-forward Polish dish or<br />
pay more to follow the chef’s recommendations. The lunch<br />
menu from 12:00 culls the best of the rest of the diverse<br />
menu of Polish, Italian and Mexican dishes and bargain<br />
bins them. Generally likeable, as opposed to memorable.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18-70zł).<br />
PTJA6GBSW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
September - December 2012<br />
37
38 RESTAURANTS<br />
Przystań (The Harbour) A-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 789 69 09, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Decked<br />
with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and decorated with<br />
old nautical illustrations and knot-tying charts, Przystań<br />
nonetheless remains thoroughly modern matching the design<br />
of the well-placed new building it occupies. Across the river<br />
from the main university building, the real reason to dock in<br />
this harbour is the deck seating over the water which offers<br />
great views and actually feels like you’re on a boat. The<br />
concise menu offers pastas, risottos and gorgeous salads<br />
- including the very brave chicken liver salad with apple,<br />
avocado, orange and parmesan. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,<br />
Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.<br />
(35-68zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Restauracja Patio A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 375 04 17, www.hotelpatio.pl/restauracjawroclaw.<br />
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth<br />
visiting whether you’re staying in the upstairs hotel or not;<br />
in fact walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the<br />
business lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers<br />
a delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the<br />
chef and is worth much more than the 24zł you pay. Choose<br />
between two dining areas - the bright, open building atrium,<br />
or the more elegant burgundy and black dining room with<br />
Klimt reproductions and creative glass chandeliers adding a<br />
bit of class. Recommended. QOpen 06:45 - 23:00. (35-75zł).<br />
PTAUGSW<br />
Soho B-3, ul. Szewska 8 (entrance from ul.<br />
Oławska), tel. (+48) 71 788 60 06, www.soho.wroc.<br />
pl. An appealing budget breakfast and lunch spot, Soho<br />
has taken a tight menu of basic Polish fare and lightened<br />
it up with Italian flair: local kitchen classics come with<br />
fresh herbs, Mediterranean ingredients and actual attention<br />
is paid to their presentation. The same can be said<br />
of the waitstaff whose dapper digs and professionalism<br />
convey a refinement that has made Soho an extension<br />
of the office for briefcase carrying thirty-somethings. A<br />
smooth organic interior of wooden tables and leather<br />
chairs with a downstairs grotto and fish tank round<br />
off this surprisingly stylish budget lunch bar. QOpen<br />
08:30 - 24:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10-70zł).<br />
PTAGBSW<br />
Spinacz F-4, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel.<br />
(+48) 693 97 40 05. Another winner for the shabby-chic<br />
set, this small corner bar features semi-stylish seating<br />
your dad might have made in wood shop in 1971 and<br />
paper tubes hanging from the ceiling. Students, backpackers<br />
and other post-teen job dodgers love it - enjoying<br />
cheap ciabattas, soup, salads, cutlets and pastas<br />
between cigarettes and fiddling with their hair - and we’d<br />
agree that it’s pretty great, particularly the potato and<br />
cheese fry-ups served in the skillet. Open late and the<br />
perfect place to re-fortify yourself during a protracted<br />
night out on the town. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45. (10-22zł).<br />
PAGBSW<br />
Vincent E-4, ul. Ruska 39, tel. (+48) 71 341 05 20,<br />
www.vincent.wroclaw.pl. Set over numerous levels<br />
Vincent is all woodcutters timber beams, warm corners<br />
and dusky lanterns. It looks like an old country inn and the<br />
food reflects the surrounds; manly servings of steak and<br />
duck, but the menu changes regularly and they often have<br />
theme menus crafted around a particular cuisine or ingredient.<br />
Not the cheapest meal in town, but certainly worth<br />
the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (22-64zł).<br />
PTJA6XW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Wieża Ciśnień E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a, tel. (+48)<br />
71 367 19 29, www.wiezacisnien.pl. Affecting the<br />
look of a fairytale castle the second floor of this former<br />
water tower is now home to Wieża, one of the few restaurants<br />
in town that qualifies the taxi bill (about 15zł).<br />
An uncluttered design features plenty of red bricks,<br />
whites and dark woods, and definitely hails from the<br />
‘less is more’ school of thinking. The chef does the<br />
rest with a great seasonal menu that is focused, but<br />
not limited to grilled meats. <strong>In</strong> June the fantastic third<br />
floor open-air grill-bar opens, and on Sundays from<br />
12:00-17:00 there’s a babysitter on site; order a meal<br />
a la carte and your kid eats free. You can get there easily<br />
via buses 144, 127 or 136. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.<br />
(39-96zł). PTAGBS<br />
Złota A-3, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 716 59 29. This<br />
eager to please Rynek restaurant might be trying a bit<br />
too hard. The staff is super friendly and the diverse<br />
menu dabbles in everything from pizza and pasta to<br />
fish stew and grilled steaks, traditional Polish dishes<br />
and vodka snacks. It’s a lot to take in, but makes a<br />
handy visor to shield you from the glare of one of the<br />
most gaudy interiors we’ve seen in some time. Looking<br />
like something from Disney’s Aladdin, the abundance<br />
of bright blue sky ceilings, gold leaf and rainbow glass<br />
tiles are only outdone by the small room designed to<br />
evoke melting ice cream (actually, that’s our favourite).<br />
Fortunately there’s seating on the market square in<br />
summer, where you can still enjoy the excellent service<br />
and good food. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (32-80zł).<br />
PTA6UGBSW<br />
Italian<br />
Amalfi B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
67 84, www.amalfi.pl. Another of the numerous<br />
establishments to have recently sprung up on this<br />
inconspicuous backstreet, this one is another Italian.<br />
Being named after that small coastal town near<br />
Naples, the expectations are high. Although we weren’t<br />
overwhelmed it did not disappoint by any stretch of<br />
the imagination - especially as we were eating pizza<br />
for breakfast. The setting is exceptionally authentic;<br />
think terracotta tiles, large olive oil bottles and Italian<br />
landscapes covering the walls. With appropriately<br />
competitive prices, the place actually represents<br />
very good value. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (23-88zł).<br />
PTAUGBS<br />
Cantina B-2, ul. Nożownicza 4, tel. (+48) 71 324<br />
17 96, www.cantina.wroclaw.pl. There are a slew of<br />
fine Italian restaurants popping up Wrocław’s Old Town<br />
that maintain traditional and high standards for Italian<br />
fare. Cantina does so with gusto. With mahogany décor,<br />
mandarin oranges and wine bottles in the windows, and<br />
the Italian tricolour above the entrance, there is little<br />
doubt you are entering a celebration of Italian cuisine.<br />
Despite opening a couple of hours earlier, don’t expect<br />
to order a meal before 2pm as the chef ventures out each<br />
afternoon for the fresh ingredients of each day’s menu.<br />
As such the small daily menu sports about twenty wellknown<br />
Italian dishes including one or two soups, salads<br />
and desserts. The wine-list is quite large considering the<br />
modest size of Cantina, and of the one hundred or so<br />
wines they offer about eighty come from various regions<br />
of Italy. Like many spots in Wrocław, they stay open until<br />
the last customer leaves, so take your time tasting as<br />
many wines as you can handle. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(23-68zł). PTA6VGBSW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Water Tower<br />
Water Tower E-7, ul. Sudecka 125a. Modelled on<br />
a medieval castle, this architectural masterpiece only<br />
a short taxi drive from the centre shouldn’t be missed.<br />
Originally designed by Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau<br />
architect and the brains behind the Zwierzyniecki Bridge<br />
(J-4), the 63m tower was built between 1903 and<br />
1904 and supplied water to the residents of southern<br />
Wrocław, with the base of the building used to house<br />
employees. From its beginnings this fairytale tower<br />
was equipped with an electric lift to whisk visitors to<br />
the top for panoramic views; costing 10 pfennigs, a<br />
clear day would afford sightseers uninterrupted views<br />
of the Sudety Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag<br />
would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed<br />
particularly good. The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz<br />
added several intricate carvings to the sandstone,<br />
including medieval style bas reliefs depicting winged<br />
beasts engaged in gruesome scenes, and a spectacular<br />
fountain spouting water from the underground spring<br />
below the building. During the 1945 Siege of Breslau<br />
the tower served as a military observation point, and in<br />
spite of heavy shelling in the immediate vicinity survived<br />
largely unscathed. Up until the ‘80s it continued to function<br />
as a water plant, though black with soot and pockmarked<br />
with bullet holes. <strong>In</strong> 1995 it was purchased by<br />
Stephan Elektronik <strong>In</strong>vestment who promptly launched<br />
an ambitious plan to restore it to its former glory. Based<br />
on a design by Wacław Bienasz-Necholson countless<br />
cash was committed to the project, its rejuvenation as<br />
a city icon completed with the addition of the Wieża<br />
Ciśnień bistro and restaurant.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
39
40 RESTAURANTS<br />
Wrocław<br />
ul. Kuźnicza 43/45<br />
reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01<br />
restauracja@darea.pl<br />
www.darea.pl<br />
The best sushi in the city<br />
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria B-2, ul. Więzienna 21<br />
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.pl.<br />
Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style<br />
here is clear and simple, with visual distractions essentially<br />
limited to the streetside views and the theatrics of other<br />
diners. An ambitious range of Italian dishes can be found<br />
here, with the real emphasis placed on spaghetti, while the<br />
proprietors’ Italian origins are unmistakable in their influence<br />
on the end product. Prices remain pegged at sensible levels,<br />
providing prospective diners with all the more reason to visit.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (11-200zł). PTA6GBSW<br />
Da Andrea A-3, Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 344 55 00,<br />
www.daandrea.pl. Definitely entering into the conversation of<br />
Wrocław’s best Italian, this fine-diner on the market square foregoes<br />
folksy trattoria trappings in favour of scarlet and burgundy<br />
surroundings, satin table dressings, fresh flowers and most of<br />
all fine ingredients. The menu begins with pizza, including a page<br />
inspired by specific members of Wrocław’s gnome community,<br />
before covering an excellent range of authentic pastas, gnocchi,<br />
risottos, fish and meat entrees, complemented by an enormous<br />
list of European wines. The results are exquisite and the service<br />
very professional, explaining the large number of foreign business<br />
owners hashing out deals in the two level interior. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 23:00. (16-75zł). PTAGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Gallo Nero Grande B-4, Pl. Teatralny 4, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 50 06, www.gallonerogrande.pl. Located under<br />
Teatr Lalek, the cavernous interior of this uninspired Italian<br />
restaurant reveals room after room of chequered red and<br />
white tablecloths under timber ceilings and busty photos of<br />
Sophia Loren and Luciano Pavorotti, as the Italian satellite<br />
radio station presents some rather untakeable tunes. While<br />
seemingly ideal for that most Italian of pleasures - sharing<br />
food with friends and family - the menu is merely an overlyfamiliar<br />
rundown of pizzas and classic Italian dishes that<br />
soon prove themselves to be nothing special. The highlight<br />
is probably the large outdoor summer seating area, but the<br />
Don is most certainly elsewhere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(30-60zł). PTAUEGBSW<br />
il Gusto A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342<br />
00 11, www.ilgusto.pl. A classy restobar with an Italian<br />
influenced menu which offers up a range of very good pizzas,<br />
pastas and soups. The chicken dish in cream sauce<br />
with bacon and peppers can certainly be recommended<br />
while a colleague has nothing but good things to say about<br />
the salads. Once fed, take up position on one of the soft<br />
furnishings and watch the slightly maturer crowd get stuck<br />
into the evening. Recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 02:00. (15-42zł). PA6GBS<br />
Il Peperoncino F-4, Rynek 23/24, tel. (+48) 71 793 55<br />
22, www.ilpeperoncino.com.pl. Two tacky flaming towers<br />
flanking the entrance distinguish Il Peperoncino from the other<br />
four upmarket Italian restaurants on the market square (there<br />
could be more by the time you read this). The menu covers<br />
the usual suspects and the Italian chef has a tendency to mill<br />
amongst the tables when he has time, adding to the friendly<br />
atmosphere. <strong>In</strong> summer almost all the seating is moved<br />
outside, so be sure not to miss the interior’s floor-to-ceiling<br />
Roman antiquity decorative motif and massive wine collection.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (12-79zł). PAUGBSW<br />
La Scala A-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94,<br />
www.lascala.pl. Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big<br />
reputation amongst locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices<br />
and uneven service of the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the<br />
food no doubt, with arguably the best Italian in town in the<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
exclusive upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria<br />
offers guests a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the<br />
menu amongst red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural<br />
Italy and strings of garlic. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (18-140zł).<br />
PTJABXSW<br />
Novocaina A-3, Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 71 343 69 15,<br />
www.novocaina.com. A fashionable eatery whose now tattered<br />
menus testify to its popularity. An extravagant design<br />
featuring plump scarlet fabrics is perfectly complemented by<br />
the crowd of vamps found within the four walls. The cooking<br />
features standard Italian offerings, from pizza and pasta<br />
to decent pepper steak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (35-70zł).<br />
PTJAGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Quorematto Sukiennice 6, tel. (+48) 71 343 66 66.<br />
This straight-forward, authentic and affordable Italian pizza<br />
bar makes eating in the Town Hall accessible to everyone,<br />
and extra perks like daily pasta specials and ‘spritz parties’<br />
from 17:00-19:00 featuring free finger food at the bar only<br />
contribute to its emergence as a favoured first date destination<br />
with locals. Choose between the seasonal outdoor seating<br />
or the sleek, Ferrari red interior with a long bar and sports<br />
on the large tele. The pizza menu is extensive and diverse,<br />
including Italian and international styles, light pizza (cheese<br />
added after baking) and white pizza (no sauce) topped with<br />
a range of fresh veggies, meats and cheeses. No complaints<br />
from us. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 24:00. (9-29zł). PTAVGBSW<br />
Ristorante Convivio C-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 344 17 09, www.convivio.pl. Modern Italian<br />
food served inside an absolutely gorgeous 14th century<br />
Franciscan monastery full of soaring arches, candleabras,<br />
white tableclothes and linen touches. This is fine dining and<br />
priced accordingly, though the immaculate location - with a<br />
lovely summer garden - ably covers much of the cost. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:00. (19-68zł). TA6GBSW<br />
Va Bene Trattoria F-4, Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
83 50, www.vabenerestauracja.pl. Between covering<br />
Wrocław and Kraków, Va Bene is unfortunately about 50<br />
Italian restaurants too late for us to get excited about its<br />
claim as the best Italian food in the region. We will say that<br />
it is very good; so good in fact that there’s no point in opening<br />
another Italian restaurant to out-do it. (Ok? How about a<br />
Thai restaurant? We could get excited about that.) The menu<br />
changes with the seasons covering all the highlights of Italian<br />
cuisine and more, extending to pizzas and even breakfast.<br />
The interior is suitably sharp and features the original ceiling,<br />
which is worth taking a peek at whether you’re hungry or<br />
not. Sneak in for the 23,90zł daily lunch menu, and in summer<br />
enjoy people-watching from their market square patio.<br />
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (19-65zł).<br />
PTAGBSW<br />
Japanese<br />
Darea Sushi B-2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 53 01, www.darea.pl. A huge open plan space that<br />
does little in the way of décor, but plenty for the reputation<br />
of Korean food. Overseen by a Korean chap who settled in<br />
Poland over a decade ago Darea offers a cracking menu<br />
of both Japanese and Korean dishes including tangsuyuk<br />
(sweet and sour beef baked in pastry), bulgogi and five<br />
grill options where the cooking is left to the patrons. Highly<br />
recommended and a confirmed favourite of Wrocław’s expats.<br />
Take-away on offer at a 15 per cent discount. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł). PTAGBS<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
Restauracja OHH!SUSHI&GRILL<br />
C.H.Galeria Dominikańska<br />
Pl. Dominikański 3, Wroclaw<br />
Tel. 71 330 6540<br />
Restauracja OHH!SUSHI&GRILL<br />
C.H Magnolia Park<br />
Ul. Legnicka 58, Wroclaw<br />
Tel. 71 350 0368<br />
www.ohhsushi.pl<br />
September - December 2012<br />
41
42 RESTAURANTS<br />
Ohh! Sushi C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3 (Galeria<br />
Dominikańska, level 0), tel. (+48) 71 330 65 40. One<br />
of Poland’s better sushi chains, Ohh! Sushi continues to<br />
surprise shoppers by providing exceptionally authentic,<br />
fresh food in one of the last places you would expect it: a<br />
shopping mall. <strong>In</strong>credibly popular as a take-away spot, that<br />
less energy has been put into the design of the interior than<br />
the quality of the food should hardly concern anyone’s stomach.<br />
With the endorsement of plenty of Asian clients at the<br />
tables each time we drop by, Ohh! Sushi is not only up there<br />
with the city’s best Japanese, it’s the best value in Wrocław<br />
for this elsewhere over-priced food fad. Another location in<br />
Magnolia Park (ul. Legnicka 58). QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00. (15-60zł). PTAUGSW<br />
Sakana A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17/1a, tel. (+48) 71 343 37<br />
10, www.sakana.pl. Arguably regarded as the best sushi<br />
in the capital, the Sakana team have expanded to cover<br />
Wrocław and the natives appear to be loving it. Expertly<br />
prepared raw fish floats by on small boats inside a pleasant<br />
white interior decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and<br />
bobs. Definitely one of the addresses to be seen dining<br />
in, as proved by the crowds of fashionista who prop up the<br />
bar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł).<br />
PTA6VGSW<br />
Sushi 77 B-2, ul. Nożownicza 1c, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
72 71, www.sushi77.com. Setting up shop directly<br />
across from Sakana, the arrival of Sushi 77 doesn’t set off<br />
a turf war as much as establish a veritable sushi district in<br />
Wrocław. While no one has ever accused Sakana of being<br />
anything less than excellent, Sushi 77 can go toe-to-toe<br />
with a haughty reputation of its own as one of the bestregarded<br />
Japanese restaurants serving edible art crafted<br />
in front of you by skilled fish-flayers. Priding themselves<br />
on their guarded rice preparation recipe, 77 knows sushi<br />
and expects you to as well, not letting anyone off the hook<br />
with spring rolls or noodles. It’s an expert effort, as the<br />
new neighbours prove they can easily wax off whatever<br />
Sakana waxes on across the street. Ying-yang, baby. Also<br />
at ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2/4 (Arkady Wrocławskie; E-6)<br />
and Pl. Grunwaldzki 22 (Pasaż Grunwaldzki, H-4). QOpen<br />
12:00 - 22:30. (19-54zł). PTAGSW<br />
Szajnochy 11 A-3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 71<br />
342 30 62. Sushi chefs work in plain view behind the canal<br />
bar, foregoing formal pretences with chatty camaraderie,<br />
as prepared sushi rolls float by ready to be plucked onto<br />
the plates of patrons. That’s not to say these gents don’t<br />
know what they’re doing - our nigiri and futomaki rolls were<br />
as good (and as fresh) as any we’ve had anywhere, and it’s<br />
certainly refreshing to see a bit of lightheartedness applied to<br />
something as achingly serious as sushi has been ever since it<br />
left Japan. Decor is minimal but on the mark with white walls<br />
and dark wood furnishings, and like many other local places,<br />
it pays to appear during lunch (served until 15:00) for bargain<br />
priced sushi sets, which - as you might expect - can get quite<br />
expensive otherwise. Overall: simple, authentic and, most<br />
of all, friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
(30-60zł). PTA6GBSW<br />
Jewish<br />
Sarah E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 792 49<br />
56, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Located near the White<br />
Stork Synagogue and Jewish Community Centre, this is<br />
Wrocław’s only Jewish restaurant. With plenty of atmosphere<br />
thanks to earthy colours, menorah candlelight<br />
and loads of antiques, Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes<br />
found in Kraków’s old Jewish district and teams with<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Mleczarnia to create one of the best beer gardens in the<br />
city (note that this is only open in warmer months). The<br />
budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish<br />
dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of<br />
the service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to<br />
spend time in our opinion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-37zł).<br />
PA6UGBS<br />
Latin American<br />
NEW<br />
Casa Latina B-2, ul. Więzienna 5b, tel. (+48) 794<br />
34 54 43. This funky, colourful Tex-Mex eatery makes<br />
plenty of bold moves with the interior decor - some of<br />
them brilliant, like the bright, quilted booths and organic<br />
graphic art on the walls; some of them not so, like the<br />
large portraits of women superimposed with random<br />
patterns and maps, and the repetitive club music (make<br />
it stop!). The menu is both a familiar, refreshing and in the<br />
end satisfactory attempt at dishes ranging from burritos<br />
to empanadas, and the prices are perfectly fair. Daily<br />
lunch specials make them even better, and the playful<br />
atmosphere makes Casa Latina a good place to stop for<br />
a pre-party fuel-up. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -<br />
22:00. (17-38zł). PTA6GSW<br />
Mediterranean<br />
La Maddalena E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71<br />
782 60 90, www.lamaddalena.pl. With a great location<br />
next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and including seasonal<br />
outdoor seating overlooking the White Stork Synagogue,<br />
La Maddelena offers upscale dining in Wrocław’s former<br />
Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-coloured,<br />
conservatively elegant interior includes homely touches<br />
like wicker lampshades and quilted seat covers, and can<br />
accommodate large groups as well as couples looking<br />
for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of<br />
Mediterranean dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly<br />
prepared pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and<br />
with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted<br />
to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small<br />
but delicious. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.<br />
(31-74zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Restauracja Acquario A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.<br />
monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. The upscale restaurant on<br />
the rooftop terrace of the legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario<br />
offers an enticing card of Mediterranean entrees with a<br />
special flair for seafood, but if you’re anything like us you’ll<br />
be just as interested in the wine card. With a world-class list<br />
on hand, there’s no better way to relax than with a bottle of<br />
red enjoying the fabulous views over Wrocław through rosetinted<br />
glasses. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 24:00.<br />
(76-89zł). PTAUGW<br />
Splendido A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48) 71 344 77<br />
77, www.splendido.pl. An old timer that’s been impressing<br />
us ever since we first bowled into town nearly a decade back.<br />
Cutting edge it isn’t, but if you’re after top notch Mediterranean<br />
eats then you can’t go far wrong. Only a Bolivian<br />
drug lord would enjoy the excessive interiors, but there’s no<br />
faulting choices like the lamb haunch or Dover sole. QOpen<br />
13:00 - 22:00. (47-83zł). PTA6UIEGS<br />
www.inyourpocket.com<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
The best Latin cuisine dishes<br />
in combination with the excellent<br />
European cuisine standards<br />
September - December 2012<br />
43
44 RESTAURANTS<br />
Zbigniew Cybulski<br />
Referred to as the ‘Polish James Dean,’ Zbigniew ‘Zbyszek’<br />
Cybulski personified the confusion and longings of Poland’s<br />
post-war youth. His image – dark glasses, leather<br />
jacket, angry young man frown – was so widely emulated<br />
that a border guard once pointed at him sneering ‘there’s<br />
another idiot pretending to be Cybulski’. He was born in<br />
1927 in what is now Ukraine; his mother saw active service<br />
during WWII with the Red Army, while his father was<br />
imprisoned in France for his work with local resistance<br />
fighters. His cinematic debut (and Roman Polański’s) came<br />
in 1954 when he played a small role in Andrzej Wajda’s<br />
film, A Generation. His big break followed in 1958 when<br />
he starred in Krzyż Walecznych, and later that year he<br />
shot to international fame when he was nominated for a<br />
BAFTA award as best foreign actor for his seminal role,<br />
that of a troubled resistance fighter in Wajda’s Ashes<br />
and Diamonds. From there he became one of Poland’s<br />
best known faces, appearing in a string of hit films. His<br />
premature death came on January 8, 1967, when he was<br />
killed while jumping onto a moving Warsaw-bound train at<br />
Wrocław’s train station. Only the day before he had been<br />
informed that he was to star in the New York production of<br />
Tennessee Williams’ ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’. His impact<br />
on Polish film cannot be underestimated, as proved in<br />
1996 when readers of Film magazine voted him Poland’s<br />
‘Best Actor of All Time’. A plaque commemorating his life<br />
was unveiled on platform three of Wrocław’s train station<br />
by his mentor Andrezj Wajda in 1997. Two years later a<br />
star honouring Cybulski’s achievements was unveiled on<br />
the Walk of Fame on Łódź’s ul. Piotrkowska.<br />
Mexican<br />
Mexico Bar A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 34, tel. (+48) 71 346<br />
02 92. Unfortunately, here in PL, the temptation is to adapt<br />
ethnic cuisine to the ‘Polish palate’. All too often huge effort<br />
and no doubt expense is expended on the cosmetic details<br />
with much less attention paid to what gets served up on<br />
your plate. Mexico Bar is a case in point. The compact<br />
hacienda-style interior is decorated with lots of cacti, Aztec<br />
masks and Corona bottles chandeliers, giving a positive first<br />
impression, however the anti-climax appears the moment<br />
inauthentic, tasteless food arrives. We would like to believe<br />
that we’d be just as critical if we were eating at a Polish<br />
restaurant outside of Poland. All that however doesn’t stop<br />
this place turning tables on a regular basis with the locals<br />
evidently more than happy with what they get. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-75zł).<br />
PTJAGBSW<br />
The Mexican B-3, ul. Szewska 61/62, tel. (+48) 516<br />
06 93 33, www.mexican.pl. It keeps getting worse. Most<br />
recently, we accompanied a friend who, gringo that she is,<br />
went ahead and ordered a vegetarian burrito. The results?<br />
A flour tortilla filled with frozen peas and carrots on a bed of<br />
kraut, topped with wimpy salsa and guacamole. Difficult to<br />
look at, so I can’t imagine her difficulty in eating it, an endeavour<br />
that didn’t progress very far. Home to expensive, flaccid<br />
margaritas craftily clogged with ice and lemon slices, barely<br />
a trace of tequila and rimmed with sugar (ay caramba), The<br />
Mexican is a constant embarrassment. A vibrant atmosphere<br />
where the waitresses have winning midriffs, this could be<br />
a fun place for lads to have a few beers, but we strongly<br />
advise against anything else. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Mon,<br />
Tue 12:30 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. (15-50zł).<br />
PTAEBXS<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Middle Eastern<br />
Piramida B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 58 44, www.piramida-steakhouse.pl. Set<br />
inside an interior consisting of Egyptian scrolls, fairy<br />
lights and hieroglyphs the chefs at Piramida have<br />
done their research (of the competition?) to bring you<br />
the authentic dishes once enjoyed by the pharaohs:<br />
pizza, kebabs with cabbage etc. Basically the poor<br />
man’s Sphinx, when the former closes its doors, you’ll<br />
always have Piramida to remind you why it didn’t last.<br />
A second city centre location at ul. Św. Mikołaja 8.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-<br />
54zł). PTJAGSW<br />
Sphinx B-3, Rynek 39/40, tel. (+48) 71 795 77<br />
30, www.sphinx.pl. Once considered by many Poles<br />
as the height of sophistication, Sphinx’s nationwide<br />
chain of identical restaurants offered cheap plates of<br />
poorly cooked kebabs and steaks with heaps of cabbage<br />
delivered to your table by amiable men dressed<br />
as penguins. However, since bankruptcy has struck<br />
the food corp, the once ubiquitous chain has all but<br />
disappeared with this outing on Wrocław’s main square<br />
being one of the doomed brand’s last Mohicans. Apparently<br />
the appeal of rubbery steaks was strongest<br />
in Wrocław where Sphinx has succeeded in spawning<br />
numerous knock-offs that will remind you of what it was<br />
like long after it’s gone. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (21-60zł).<br />
PTJAUGBSW<br />
Polish<br />
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza<br />
20, tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. A hotel<br />
restaurant that would thrive even without its captive<br />
audience of hotel guests. The vaulted interiors of Art<br />
come decorated with light colours, timber beams and<br />
wicker chairs, while visual distractions include a well,<br />
local artwork and potted shrubbery in every conceivable<br />
form. The menu does the rest with a strong line<br />
in maritime delights and regional Polish cuisine in addition<br />
to well-presented modern Italian dishes. QOpen<br />
06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. (38-68zł).<br />
PTJA6UGBSW<br />
Chatka Przy Jatkach A-3, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 342 72 20, www.chatkaprzyjatkach.eu.<br />
This small, popular self-service Polish eatery, across<br />
from the ul. Jatka gallery stalls, achieves the trick of<br />
appearing like a rustic village cottage if you don’t notice<br />
the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing the illusion is the<br />
genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables (begging<br />
to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden tables,<br />
timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar. The<br />
menu - conveniently available in Polish, English and<br />
German - features all the Polish classics, but take note<br />
that almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average<br />
food, this veteran chow house still makes a fine place for<br />
a fast, local lunch if you can score a table. And they take<br />
euros. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.<br />
(10-25zł). AGBS<br />
Dwór Polski A-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 48 96,<br />
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Decorated with stuffed<br />
falcons and enough medieval armour and weaponry to<br />
start a museum this is a suitably upmarket Old Town feed.<br />
The menu focuses on boar, deer, pigs and ducks, all carved<br />
up with pewter cutlery. If you’re a vegetarian, run. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). PTA6GBS<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
September - December 2012<br />
45
46 RESTAURANTS<br />
Milk Bars<br />
A lot has changed over the years since communism got<br />
knee-capped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination<br />
as popular as Wrocław hardly seems any more alien<br />
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or<br />
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days<br />
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one relic<br />
remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar. These<br />
steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to an endless<br />
queue of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim<br />
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the atmosphere<br />
(and sanitary standards) of a gas station restroom.<br />
We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can eat like<br />
an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely well-fed one.<br />
Put the Racławice Panorama on hold, you’ll learn a lot more<br />
about Poland by making a visit to the milk bar (‘bar mleczny’<br />
in Polish) in what should be a required cultural experience<br />
for anyone who has just set foot in the country.<br />
Jacek i Agatka B-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 24 55, www.jacekiagatka.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (3-12zł). PJGB<br />
Miś B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63.<br />
No doubt named after the classic Polish comedy film<br />
which caricatured milk bars during the communist era.<br />
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />
(5-14zł). JGB<br />
Misz Masz B-2, ul. Nożownicza 14-16, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 90 67, www.barmiszmasz.pl. Slightly less<br />
desperate than the average milk bar. QOpen 09:00 -<br />
21:00. (6-11zł). PAGSW<br />
Gospoda Wrocławska A-3, ul. Sukiennice 7, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 342 74 56, www.restauracjekrawczyk.com.<br />
pl. A traditional Polish restaurant featuring plenty of high<br />
backed chairs, halberds, copper pans and the radio hits of<br />
the 1980s, of course. The menu is standard medieval fare,<br />
plus a fair amount of game, with dishes like ‘King August<br />
II’s duck’ coming with apples and cranberries, plus dumplings<br />
and cabbage, and arriving on a large wooden board.<br />
A perfect place to loosen your belt and spill beer in your<br />
beard. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-72zł). PTA6U<br />
VGBSW<br />
JaDka A-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64<br />
61, www.jadka.pl. Faultless modern and traditional Polish<br />
cuisine with a Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate,<br />
imperial backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber<br />
and starched linen. The concise menu won’t bowl you over,<br />
but the class and quality will. Choose from catfish in leek<br />
mousse with spinach (59zł), potato pancakes with smoked<br />
salmon (46zł) or sieze the moment by ordering wild boar.<br />
Expect an expansive wine list, professional service and an all<br />
round commitment to excellence. One of the few world class<br />
dining options in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (53-83zł).<br />
PTA6GSW<br />
Karczma Lwowska A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl. Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’<br />
and dedicated not only to that formerly Polish city now lost<br />
in the wilds of the Ukraine, but also to that thought-to-be<br />
lost Polish ideal of a simple country lifestyle, this nostalgic<br />
restaurant’s immaculately decorated interior is decked out<br />
in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old photos and seems to<br />
have a stuffed pheasant on almost every table. Designed for<br />
day-long feasting, the menu of traditional Galician specialties<br />
and game dishes from the charcoal grill looks like an<br />
outstanding bargain before you notice that all side dishes<br />
are charged separately, however the result is still a decent<br />
value and evidence that not everything on the market square<br />
is a tourist trap. The traditionally brewed Lwowskie beer on<br />
draft comes straight from its namesake and is served in a<br />
large ceramic beer stein. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-80zł).<br />
PTJA6EBXSW<br />
Kurna Chata A-2, ul. Odrzańska 17, tel. (+48) 71<br />
341 06 68, www.kurnachata.pl. Newly fitted brown<br />
windows hide one of the top budget choices you’ll stumble<br />
across. Feast on platters of uncomplicated Polish delicacies<br />
inside a chalet-like, pub atmosphere. The prices are<br />
rock bottom, and the food is the sort of culinary genius<br />
that only a grandmother could perfect, so be prepared<br />
to wait around for a spare table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.<br />
(8-26zł). TJGBS<br />
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn A-3, Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 14 15. This popular Polish franchise has found a place<br />
on the market square, bringing with it a typical rustic interior<br />
of timber fittings and burlap light fixtures. Taking that staple<br />
of the national cuisine - stuffed dumplings or ‘pierogi’ - and<br />
turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia<br />
Stary Młyn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to<br />
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering<br />
visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat or veg<br />
fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side. Choose from<br />
wildly overpriced sets of 3 or 5 where adding an additional<br />
individual pierog costs almost 8zł (baked) or 4zł (steamed). To<br />
their credit, the individual dumplings are very large (start with<br />
3) and tasty, but hardly traditional. The textbook definition of<br />
a tourist trap, there are dozens of other places in Wrocław<br />
where you can taste your first pierogi. QOpen 11:03 - 22:56.<br />
(12-30zł). TAGBSW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Polish Food<br />
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world<br />
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following<br />
to the test:<br />
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before<br />
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,<br />
but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic<br />
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish<br />
restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this<br />
prior to your meal. You only need ask.<br />
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature<br />
soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes<br />
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings<br />
thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when<br />
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.<br />
Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters<br />
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut<br />
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have<br />
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.<br />
Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion<br />
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban<br />
myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki<br />
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the<br />
Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the<br />
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.<br />
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties<br />
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,<br />
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including<br />
Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and<br />
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with<br />
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped<br />
sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s<br />
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.<br />
Pierogi: <strong>Pocket</strong>s of dough traditionally filled with meat,<br />
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally<br />
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.<br />
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired<br />
with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditional<br />
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if<br />
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the<br />
direction of the kitchen.<br />
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale<br />
baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it<br />
with mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.<br />
Best eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it:<br />
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.<br />
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than<br />
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a<br />
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you<br />
have visited their country.<br />
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,<br />
in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generally<br />
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not<br />
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish<br />
is Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultry<br />
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the<br />
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors<br />
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
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September - December 2012<br />
47
48 RESTAURANTS<br />
Piwnica Świdnicka A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48)<br />
71 369 95 10, www.piwnicaswidnicka.com. Seems<br />
things have gone downhill a bit since this place was opened<br />
over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in Europe.<br />
Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed in the<br />
basement back in those days, today it serves primarily as<br />
an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town<br />
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average<br />
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless<br />
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very<br />
least. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-75zł). PTAGBSW<br />
Pod Fredrą A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341 13<br />
35, www.podfredra.pl. A perfect introduction to traditional<br />
Polish cuisine, from a perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval<br />
Town Hall, Pod Fredro ably covers the spectrum of Polish<br />
classics and even boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The<br />
music, walls, and meaty menu combine to create the appearance<br />
of an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve<br />
you in at least three languages (Polish, German or English).<br />
The extensive country fare is complemented by a large and<br />
international wine list, and you need not worry about your eyes<br />
being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy to doggybag<br />
whatever you’re unable to put away of the large portions.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). PTA6EBXSW<br />
Pod Gryfami A-3, Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 89<br />
ext.13, www.podgryfami.pl. The ground floor cafe of this<br />
14th century townhouse has recently been extended with a<br />
glass patio that even features a fireplace in winter, allowing<br />
the artsy, academic clientele to continue their cloudy, wine<br />
teeth conversations year-round. Should your stomach compel<br />
you towards their well-regarded restaurant, you’ll descend<br />
two disorienting levels below ground to an awkward labyrinthe<br />
of ancient, sprawling cellars. Unfortunately the ambi-<br />
ence of this fascinating space is a bit put off by an abundance<br />
of random art on the walls and cheesy jazz and r’n’b music.<br />
The food, however, is nothing to poke at, with pork, duck,<br />
lamb and veal dominating the menu. The arrival of our entree<br />
beneath a silver serving canopy only seemed silly until we<br />
tasted it: the chef should take a bow. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (35-66zł). PTJA6IBXSW<br />
Quchnia Polska A-3, Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl. Obviously up market when<br />
you enter, this place aims to combine innovative international<br />
cuisine with classic Polish ingredients and additions. A cosy<br />
interior with warm colours should be the law in Poland<br />
with those biting winters - this place fits the bill perfectly.<br />
Attractively restored features of the old building, including<br />
(almost) flawless coving. It was a first for us, but the dish of<br />
another diner in the restaurant looked so good that we just<br />
had to have the same; the chicken with mushroom sauce is<br />
excellent alongside cooked spinach and pan fried potatoes.<br />
Flawless food for sure. Located on the main square, with<br />
fittingly exceptional views. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />
12:00 - 23:30. (21-69zł). PTAGBSW<br />
Restauracja Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.<br />
The return of this historical<br />
building and its restaurant to Wrocław’s culinary scene is<br />
surely something to be celebrated, particularly under the<br />
savvy stewardship of Likus. Known under communism as the<br />
most exclusive restaurant in Wrocław, with queues stretching<br />
outside the revolving doors and teams of bellboys shooing<br />
away anyone not wearing a tie, menus and tableware would<br />
frequently disappear into the pockets of souvenir hunters and<br />
the restaurant’s reputation as a masterpiece was common<br />
knowledge. Today that excellency is back in place with master<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
chefs preparing a wide range of traditional Polish dishes,<br />
and an inspired breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A<br />
modern classic, just leave the cutlery when you go. Q Open<br />
07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (44-64zł). PTAUGW<br />
Spanish<br />
Taverna Espaniola A-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 65 62, www.taverna-espanola.com.pl. Six types of<br />
paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish in abundance,<br />
a superb veggie selection and a coveted location (including<br />
terrific Rynek-side seating in season) all ensure that this<br />
Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy patrons. <strong>In</strong>side you<br />
will find a vaulted room full of gloomy corners and a scary<br />
mannequin dressed like a matador. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). JAGBS<br />
Vegetarian<br />
Green Way F-4, ul. Kuźnicza 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
90 98, www.greenway.pl. A canteen-style affair offering<br />
decent fare to the health-conscious diner. Bites on show<br />
include aubergine lasagne, enchiladas, vegetables in curry<br />
sauce and pasta, and it’s very much hard to find fault with<br />
anything. A bit lacking in atmosphere, this is a budget hero<br />
and recognized as such by the students, eco-warriors and<br />
modern mums who gather here. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 20:00. (10-17zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
NEW<br />
Machina Organika ul. Ruska 19, tel. (+48) 534 08 83<br />
60, www.machinaorganika.pl. Beyond simply vegetarian,<br />
this exciting organic vegan eatery/cafe across from Pasaż<br />
Niepolda offers very creative cuisine and a different menu every<br />
day. For example, when we dropped in it was ‘avo-mango-carrot<br />
soup with tomatoes, thyme and sunflower seeds’ (how can you<br />
resist giving that a try?). <strong>In</strong> addition to the original vegan entrees,<br />
salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond great coffee<br />
and unpasteurised local beers to include a range of enticing<br />
creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango lassis<br />
and watermelon tonics. Set over three levels (the downstairs<br />
of which is decidely more loungey), Machina Organika also<br />
features a lovely interior with timber ceilings, a long L-shaped<br />
bar, wire light fixtures, plenty of potted plants and colourful tiles<br />
work that almost gives it a bit of a hacienda feel. Between this<br />
place and Złe Mięso we could happily never eat meat again.<br />
Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00.<br />
Closed Mon. (20zł). A6UGSW<br />
Vega B-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39 34,<br />
www.vega-wroclaw.com.pl. Possibly the most modest place<br />
you can eat on Wrocław’s market square, Vega offers little in<br />
terms of atmosphere, with the decor of this canteen coming<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
RESTAURANTS<br />
courtesy of potted plants and adverts for kung-fu classes. Set<br />
out over two floors, the upper of which is strictly vegan, the food<br />
is cheap and good and consists primarily of meatless variations<br />
on Polish food, ie. meatless cutlets, potato pancakes, majo<br />
salads and more. Not the most creative grub you’ve had, but<br />
how many vegan restaurants have you seen in PL, let alone on<br />
the main square? Note that the vegan part has different opening<br />
hours: 12:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (6-16zł). PTJA6GBSW<br />
Złe Mięso (Evil Meat) B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 794 85 40, www.zlemieso.pl. Say hello to Złe<br />
Mięso: arguably Wrocław’s best vegetarian restaurant and the<br />
adopted home of the city’s large alternative activist community<br />
(and all their multi-tatted and pierced friends). Be greeted by a<br />
friendly dog before choosing from the large menu of daily specials,<br />
curries, casseroles, veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and<br />
- something we’ve never seen before in PL - delicious seitan. Not<br />
super cheap, but super good for you and the portions are huge.<br />
The artsy industrial interior featuring graphic graffiti art, glasstopped<br />
tables made from plywood and pallets, milk crate light<br />
fixtures and electro music more befitting a nightclub also doubles<br />
as a hip place to hang and drink local beer. Go veg out. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (12-19zł). P6GBSW<br />
Have <strong>Your</strong> Say<br />
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed<br />
in this guide, or the dozens more that we list on our<br />
website, let the millions of visitors to our website,<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every<br />
venue online has a function for comments be they critical,<br />
complimentary or comical, so spill it!<br />
Kuchnia Marche (see Quick Eats)<br />
Great idea for a restuarant, especially if you’re not sure what<br />
to order, and you’re perhaps not wishing for a large meal.<br />
When you just pay for what you wish for- everyone wins! Remember<br />
though to keep the card with you at all times. If only<br />
the owners could be persuaded to open a branch where I live!<br />
Phil from Norwich, United Kingdom<br />
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar (see Bars)<br />
Hi there I visited Wroclaw few weeks ago and had this<br />
pleasure to find Fika Cafe. I can honestly recomend this<br />
place. It’s not expensive comparing to other places at the<br />
market square ;they serve really good tasty coffee and I love<br />
their smoothies. The size is unbelievable! The service was<br />
good and in the evening when we came back there was a<br />
party with a DJ performing in the window. Very nice place!<br />
Anna from London, UK<br />
September - December 2012<br />
49
50<br />
CAFÉS<br />
Afryka Coffee Tea House A-3, ul. Kotlarska 32, tel.<br />
(+48) 727 90 16 91, www.afrykacoffee.pl. <strong>In</strong> amongst<br />
the exotic teas, gifts and other knicks and knacks that always<br />
have us in wallet-out scenarios, Afryka does good tea and coffee<br />
and - whisper it - cocktails. <strong>In</strong> fact, we have sat and watched as<br />
Afryka has become the preferred ‘drinks-before-home’ venue for<br />
Wroclaw’s classier ladies and gents. Long may it remain so. Also<br />
at ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24 (A-3). QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun<br />
08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. PJA6GBSW<br />
Cafe Bar Monopol A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej 2<br />
(Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 90, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl.<br />
On the ground floor of the peerless<br />
Monopol, this upscale cafe/bar opens early and closes late<br />
providing a perfect setting for the morning coffees, afternoon<br />
teas and evening cocktails that the staff serve up with aplomb.<br />
There’s even an extensive cigar collection if you really want to<br />
fat cat it. Featuring columns, a dark marble bar, fresh flowers<br />
and large windows that open up onto the street, the Monopol is<br />
the perfect place to finalise business deals or take a break from<br />
them entirely. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTAUBXW<br />
Cafe de France A-3, Rynek 20-22 1a, tel. (+48) 785<br />
99 86 64. Small and slightly cramped with an awkward<br />
seating arrangement that makes getting comfortable unnecessarily<br />
difficult, this Parisian cafe is a casual place to<br />
slow things down with delicious coffee or a glass of wine in<br />
the evening from their respectable list. <strong>In</strong> terms of dining<br />
you’ll find some decent breakfast options and you can pay in<br />
whatever currency you want, but overall it’s rather overpriced<br />
and nothing special. Plus you’re here to experience Wrocław,<br />
not a Polish imitation of Paris. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri,<br />
Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PA6UGBW<br />
Central Cafe E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71<br />
794 96 23, www.centralcafe.pl. Around the corner from<br />
Pasaż Niepolda and open early - here’s a good place to start<br />
your day. This American-style bakery cafe offers a blackboard<br />
menu (in Polish and English) with plenty of familiar breakfast<br />
options, including bagels and cream cheese, yogurt with<br />
granola and honey, oatmeal loaded with yummy toppings,<br />
pastries, cupcakes, quiche and more - all of it made on site<br />
we’re told. Of course, there’s coffee and smoothies as well,<br />
plus plenty of space to park it and observe the cute clientele<br />
enjoying their oatmeal until your eyes are sufficiently wide<br />
enough to take your sightseeing back into town. The spacious,<br />
high-ceilinged, classic black-and-white interior also<br />
serves as a great place to work or discuss business. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. PTAUGSW<br />
Juice Bars<br />
Frankie’s B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 57, tel. (+48) 725<br />
38 87 00. The only place of its kind in Wrocław, Frankie’s<br />
takes a trend you’d expect to be popular with kids too<br />
young to drink booze and health-conscious students on<br />
their way home from yoga class and somehow makes it a<br />
fashionable hangout for hip musicians and metrosexuals<br />
with great hair. <strong>In</strong> addition to some really tasty sandwiches,<br />
try fresh-squeezed juices and shakes combining<br />
all kinds of raw ingredients from broccoli and carrot to<br />
ginger and elderberry inside a stylish, modern interior full<br />
of fashion and culture magazines, indy rock music and<br />
a long marble bar with wall-length windows overlooking<br />
the street. A sandwich and their special ‘hangover’ juice<br />
formula is a great way to sure yourself up after a long<br />
night, and get ready for the one ahead. QOpen 07:00 -<br />
01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PTAVGBSW<br />
Chocoffee B-2, ul. Więzienna 31, www.chocoffee.<br />
com. Quite possibly the best cafe in Wrocław. Found on<br />
the corner of Igielna, the exterior is painted with phrases<br />
and variations of the word ‘chocolate’ in a dozen different<br />
languages. <strong>In</strong>side find a quiet, cosy cafe with fine marble<br />
tables, classy wallpaper and comfy couches. A tantalising<br />
number of chocolate and coffee concoctions are available,<br />
hot or cold, to stay or to go. Not to mention the display full of<br />
small sweets, truffles, fudge and other treats. Their chocolate<br />
coffee with a scoop of vanilla ice cream? - the only reason<br />
we get out of bed some days. A gem. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Mon 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:30.<br />
PA6UGS<br />
NEW<br />
Cocofli E-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99<br />
90. The name is a strained acronym for coexistence, cooperation,<br />
friendship, love and identity, but we would have<br />
gone with something along the lines of ‘cobobaga’ (coffee,<br />
books, bar and gallery) to better get at the many facets of<br />
this friendly establishment. Culture should probably be in<br />
there somewhere as well, since this place has become a bit<br />
of a meeting place for it. Creating an antiquated intellectual<br />
aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash of furnishings including a<br />
wall-length bookshelf, old telephone switchboard, and unique<br />
decorative art with portraits of luminairies from Wrocław’s<br />
Jewish past, Cocofli’s selection of comics and children’s<br />
books will make you wish you spoke Polish. Here it’s possible<br />
to get your coffee with rice, soy or almond milk, or enjoy a<br />
glass of wine or a local microbrew. Only a couple doors down<br />
from the very similar Wydawnictwo, which we’re informed will<br />
close in mid-September, Cocofli is ready, willing and worthy of<br />
picking up the slack. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:30,<br />
Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUGBW<br />
Coffee Planet A-3, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 796 45<br />
40, www.coffeeplanet.pl. Much more than the corporate<br />
coffee franchise the name suggests, this smart venue has<br />
an artsy atmosphere, a great choice of caffeine highs and<br />
cocktail considerations, a dance-floor and weekly events<br />
that include DJ sets, photo exhibits and even drag queen<br />
shows. Crowded with couples, lap-toppers and after-work<br />
unwinders throughout the day and night, Coffee Planet is one<br />
of the better all-around venues on Wrocław’s market square.<br />
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.<br />
PA6BXSW<br />
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 797 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.com.<br />
pl. Filled with grinding contraptions and the rich smell<br />
of roasted coffee beans, everyone from empty-nesters<br />
to first-daters fill this place. Dimly lit and equipped with<br />
a few sofas this is a top choice if you’ve got an hour<br />
to lose. The name refers to the numerous sweets and<br />
treats found behind the counter, including the option of<br />
enjoying a chocolate fountain, while local artists have<br />
opened a women’s fashion boutique (‘Ubieralnia,’ open<br />
Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-14:00) in the adjoining<br />
salon. Making it even better, they now also offer Czech<br />
beer for those whose weakness isn’t for sweets. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun<br />
12:00 - 21:00. TAGSW<br />
Falanster E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48)<br />
609 66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. One of Wrocław’s<br />
most switched-on venues, this hip hangout takes on<br />
many guises, including gallery, bookstore, free trade<br />
cafe, concert venue, and counter-culture meeting<br />
grounds, wearing all of them well simultaneously, and<br />
with complete seriousness. Head here to hang with local<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
artists and activists, while enjoying delicious coffee and<br />
perusing an expanding selection of English-language<br />
books from Kraków’s Massolit. Recommended. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
A6EGSW<br />
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar F-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 71 790<br />
40 92, www.cafefika.pl. If you’re looking for an upscale<br />
café with summer seating on the square, a chic interior, Italian<br />
food, coffee and cocktails…well, there’s a few to choose from<br />
at this point. But Fika stands out with a spacious modern<br />
interior, great coffee, light breakfast options, subtle music<br />
and some stellar window seating when it’s too frigid to take<br />
a table outside. Alternatively, head downstairs where you’ll<br />
find a second bar and warmer atmosphere (and you won’t<br />
have to look at those head-scratch-worthy floor to ceiling<br />
photos of a vampy teenage girl). QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,<br />
Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.<br />
PTA6GBSW<br />
Kalaczakra B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372<br />
35 71 ext. 35. A budget beauty, with stone clad flooring<br />
juxtaposed against walls of weird artwork, dimmed lighting<br />
and gentle looking yogic folk. Run by the same people<br />
behind the next door Kalambur, so expect much of the<br />
same spaced-out spirit, as well as an array of healthy,<br />
planet-conscious eats. Check out their film screenings for<br />
something really potty. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 -<br />
24:00. T6UGBSW<br />
Kawiarnia Literatka A-3, Rynek 56/57, tel. (+48)<br />
71 341 80 13, www.kawiarnialiteratka.pl. A splendid<br />
cafe/bar on the main square, patrons can be seen and<br />
seem book-smart under the outside awning or retreat<br />
into the two-floor interior filled with framed portraits of<br />
literary luminaries and ceiling to floor shelves straining<br />
under the weight of Polish hardbacks. Decorated with<br />
dark wood furnishings, red drapes, chandeliers and an<br />
illuminated globe, Literatka’s artsy elegance outclasses<br />
most market square options, and has become a favourite<br />
place for puffers since the smoking ban. Shame that<br />
the music sometimes lets the show down, or we would<br />
spend most of our time there. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.<br />
A6BXSW<br />
Milano Piu F-4, ul. Świdnicka 4a-6, tel. (+48) 600 00<br />
64 84, www.milanopiu.com. Another stylish red, white<br />
and mahogany Italian masterpiece just off the Rynek on<br />
Świdnicka. The fancy décor and wait-staff make it almost<br />
too classy to be dubbed merely a café. The menu is exactly<br />
what you would expect for an Italian establishment here in<br />
Poland, although it’s bigger than your typical café. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll<br />
find a picturesque homage to the city of Milan, and they even<br />
accept Italian currency (euros) if you’re too lazy to change<br />
your money and want to pay extra. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />
PAUGBSW<br />
Monsieur Cafe A-3, ul. Więzienna 31, tel. (+48) 71<br />
313 11 92, www.monsieurcafe.com.pl. This charming<br />
pseudo-French cafe is a great place to start a day in<br />
Wrocław, dimly gazing out the street side windows with the<br />
morning’s first cuppa. Though they don’t serve ‘breakfast’<br />
per se (that would be anti-European or something), there’s<br />
a great daily ‘lunch special’ that basically serves that<br />
function: a slice of quiche or panini sandwich with tea or<br />
coffee and a green vitamin shot. For those more interested<br />
in the hair of the dog than drinking grass, check out the<br />
nice beer selection or French wine list. Croissants, muffins<br />
and fresh-squeezed juice are also at hand. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 22:00. PTA6GBW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CAFÉS<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Muffiniarnia B-2, ul. Szewska 27 - 27a, tel. (+48)<br />
605 16 15 14. Greatly benefiting from a larger space cleverly<br />
located next door to the comparably cheek-pinchingly<br />
cute Słodkie Czary Mary candy workshop, this colourful<br />
cupcake cafe is savouring the sweet taste of success.<br />
Though the interior is less precious than previously, it’s<br />
still all rainbow candy stripes and cupcake knick-knacks.<br />
<strong>In</strong> addition to the selection of muffins (chocolate, caramel,<br />
berry) and fashionable cupcakes for 5zł - a fair price<br />
compared to similar baked good boutiques in Kraków and<br />
Wawa - there’s now proper coffee available, as well as<br />
shakes and smoothies (our Oreo shake was delicious).<br />
That there’s a steady flow of walk-ins to try to these<br />
small, adorable indulgences is hardly a surprise: they’re<br />
cheap, chic and tasty. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun<br />
12:00 - 20:00. PA6UGSW<br />
Sufi Cafe B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 65/66, tel. (+48) 881<br />
58 49 49. Unlike your typical Polish ‘cafe’ that blurs<br />
the lines between cafe and bar, combining coffee and<br />
beer, civil conversation and boisterous boozing under<br />
one roof, Sufi Cafe is having none of that business. This<br />
dead serious cafe celebrates only one thing and that’s<br />
the coffee bean. With a variety of roasts and brewing<br />
methods, Sufi should satisfy even the most exacting<br />
connoisseurs. A subtly Eastern interior of gold walls,<br />
scalloped arches and Islamic chanting as background<br />
music evoke the quiet, calming atmosphere that makes<br />
Sufi a great place for finding the inner peace that the<br />
name suggests - be it by concentrating over a computer<br />
in the front, or meditating with a book in the cushioned<br />
second room. Best coffee in Wrocław? Sufi is certainly<br />
on the short-list. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00<br />
- 21:00. PAGBSW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
51
52 NIGHTLIFE<br />
Nightlife at a Glance<br />
COCKTAILS: Way too many to mention, but notes of<br />
distinction go to Wrocław stalwarts Paparazzi, Novocaina<br />
and Pod Papugami. Bed Club and Stardust<br />
are currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity<br />
spotting and being seen.<br />
STUDENTS: The courtyards off ul. Ruska, particularly<br />
Pasaz Niepolda, are full of student bars and clubs with<br />
Niebo standing out as the area’s most damn-thetorpedoes<br />
dawn-breaker. Szajba and Manana are two<br />
of the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking, or<br />
visit Mleczarnia to mingle with a more civilised crowd.<br />
LADS: Guinness for football and a pint of Black Gold,<br />
while for rowdier revelry Spiz and Bierhalle ably<br />
serve their roles with extra sausages. Head to Pasaz<br />
Niepolda off ul. Ruska (E-3) for the easiest insider pub<br />
crawl in town.<br />
COUPLES: Paparazzi is not the poseur paradise it<br />
sounds, but a perfect place to kick off your evening with<br />
a romantic drink. A glass of wine and panoramic views<br />
at La Terazza is also a smart move. Head to Salvador<br />
as things get more intimate before finishing the night<br />
with jazz at Ragtime or a turn on the dancefloor at<br />
Schody Donikąd.<br />
ALTERNATIVE: Wrocław has an admirable indy/alt<br />
scene with Niskie Łąki being the choice for new wavers,<br />
Kultowa for grunge rockers, and Stefa Zero the ultimate<br />
dive for tattooed head-bangers. Drop in Złe Mięso (see<br />
Restaurants) to join the vegan activist crowd.<br />
Smoking<br />
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU countries<br />
with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into<br />
effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking<br />
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in<br />
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,<br />
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and<br />
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged<br />
to place a clear and visible ‘No Smoking’ sign and anyone<br />
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards<br />
(Straż Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500zł fine.<br />
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and<br />
other public places, the law states that there can be<br />
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly<br />
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. <strong>In</strong><br />
response to the controversial legislation, many owners<br />
have exercised their right to create a small smoking<br />
room, however others have made the majority of their<br />
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set<br />
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,<br />
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing<br />
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking<br />
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it<br />
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid<br />
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises<br />
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:<br />
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the<br />
premises<br />
X This place has a smoking section on the premises<br />
Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing<br />
times are, most will stay open until the last customer has<br />
crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated around the<br />
Old Town market square, but for more alternative drinking<br />
destinations also check out the tippler’s strip below the<br />
ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-5), and destinations<br />
west of the market square, namely ul. Włodkowica (A-4),<br />
the courtyards off ul. Ruska (E-4) and the secrets of the<br />
old train station on Plac Orląt Lwowskich (E-4). Happy<br />
hangover.<br />
Bars & Pubs<br />
Casa de la Musica A-3, Rynek Ratusz 11/12,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 343 72 62, www.casadelamusica.pl.<br />
Recently doubling its size to take in a second floor, this fun<br />
Cuban-themed music club takes all the best aspects of<br />
Cuban culture, sparing patrons glorified portraits of Che<br />
in preference for colourful framed cigar labels, an antique<br />
cash register and proper mojitos. With Latin DJs playing<br />
passionate salsa, rumba and merengue music, the lack<br />
of a designated dancefloor upstairs doesn’t stop anyone<br />
from cutting a rug; in fact the smooth DJs often leave their<br />
station to take local lasses in hand and put on a dancing<br />
clinic. If you know how to move to this music, consider yourself<br />
money in the bank; if not, be careful - or your girlfriend<br />
will have the time of her life while you sit and shrug down a<br />
beer. Chump. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00.<br />
PAEXW<br />
Chopper Bar F-4, ul. Kotlarska 42, tel. (+48) 71 330<br />
65 54, www.chopperhostel.pl. We typically steer clear<br />
of this sort of place - and with a tacky design approach<br />
that basically involves covering everything, including the<br />
facade of the building, in motor collage wallpaper, Chopper<br />
Bar looks about as dreadful as you can imagine - but we’re<br />
willing to admit we enjoyed the experience. Attached to the<br />
hostel of the same name, Chopper Bar offers good food<br />
(including decent chili), great beer (including Czech Primator<br />
and Litovel on draft) and the ability to watch manly pursuits<br />
(like bull-riding) on the TV while enjoying the sounds of Guns<br />
N Roses. If that’s not up your alley, well what did you think<br />
coming in here? If you order a large beer prepare for it to be<br />
1lt, and each one comes with a free chicken wing. Though<br />
the industrial decor of license plates and bike parts is hardly<br />
original, the bathrooms are practically a museum and the<br />
weekends host concerts and jam sessions. QOpen 12:00<br />
- 24:00. (15-39zł). AGBSW<br />
Graciarnia Pub A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 795 66 88, www.graciarnia.com.pl. If<br />
you want to drink among students wearing big beads and<br />
striped stockings, then head to Graciarnia, where decoration<br />
surely comes courtesy of an abandoned ship. Here it’s<br />
all tables that shake and wobble, sofas where every spring<br />
is felt, headless mannequins, theatre costumes and scarlet<br />
walls throughout an endless series of unique rooms where<br />
an obscure musical menu matches the beatnik mood.<br />
If you like Mleczarnia, you’ll love Graciarnia - perfect for<br />
cuddling your date on an antique loveseat and looking like<br />
the heights of hip indy culture at the same time. QOpen<br />
15:00 - 01:00. ABXW<br />
Guinness A-3, Pl. Solny 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 60<br />
15, www.pubguinness.pl. This Polish-owned Irish pub<br />
isn’t the most authentic place in the world, but it plays<br />
its role just fine as flypaper for foreigners and football<br />
fans thanks to being just about the only place in town<br />
where you’re likely to find your match on the tube. True to<br />
its name they do serve the Black Nectar, but there have<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
been times when we’ve wanted to give the staff a hand<br />
by pouring it ourselves; at a hefty 17zł we feel like we’ve<br />
paid for the right. Set over two levels serving up decent<br />
pub grub and live music some evenings, Guinness is a<br />
solid choice for a successful night out, as surely proven<br />
by the common sight of grown men crying and hugging/<br />
holding each other up outside the front entrance. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 02:00. PJAEBXW<br />
il Gusto A-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00<br />
11, www.ilgusto.pl. Perfectly located to catch the spill-off<br />
from the ever-popular Mañana upstairs, Il Gusto is up to the<br />
challenge with a likeminded playlist of funk, Bowie remixes,<br />
MJ and other danceable hits. With a makeshift dancefloor<br />
in front of the long bottle-lined bar, the crowd kicks it out<br />
amidst a large, modern space of frosty mirrors and plush<br />
black booths. The interior is a balance of industrial, rustic<br />
and straight chillout - the only regret being an overabundance<br />
of close-up photos of guitars being wanged. Serving as a<br />
relaxed restaurant during the day, with a seasonal summer<br />
garden when the sun appears, after hours il Gusto attracts<br />
a slightly more mature crowd, though they hardly behave that<br />
way. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
17:00 - 04:00. PAGB<br />
John Bull Pub A-3, Pl. Solny 6/7a, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 25 20. A classic British pub in style and intention<br />
from the wooden bar to the wallpaper, framed fox-hunting<br />
scenes and wainscotting, this is a perfectly decent place<br />
for a drink, and surprisingly free of tourists and expats<br />
thanks to their favouring of neighbouring Guinness and its<br />
precious TV sets. No ales on hand save for the pricey but<br />
satisfying John Bull Bitter and Blonde, but here you’ll find<br />
the largest selection of whiskeys in Wrocław. Small, intimate<br />
and cosy, stop in for a quiet drink, but don’t expect a social<br />
atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 02:00.<br />
PJAUGBW<br />
Kredance A-3, ul. Szajnochy 11, tel. (+48) 601 75 74<br />
11, www.kredance.eu. Remarkable for having taken a step<br />
backwards in terms of taste - from the assured bohemian<br />
atmosphere of ‘Kredens’ to the brainless Drunk Olympic time<br />
trials of ‘Kredance’ - this underground space is more popular<br />
than ever before, packed with students barking over each<br />
other to be heard and no spare seats in sight. The random<br />
interior is virtually unchanged save for the disappearance<br />
of one of the bars and the two large cabinets angled across<br />
what used to be the dance-floor (a curious innovation given<br />
the name is a play on the Polish for ‘cupboard’). With some<br />
kind of musical act each night including DJs Thursday to<br />
Sunday, this is a lot of fun. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. Note that<br />
once the summer garden closes they will be open from 16:00<br />
each day. PAEBXW<br />
Kultowa B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 794<br />
92 91, www.kultowa.pl. As far as tributes go, this underground,<br />
alternative rock bar is a lot better than most cover<br />
bands. An homage to legendary Polish anti-establishment<br />
rockers ‘Kult,’ this namesake bar is covered in classic<br />
rock posters and paraphernalia which literally reverberate<br />
on the brick walls to the wail of grunge and rock anthems.<br />
Featuring a summer patio bar, cheap beer, red-varnished<br />
candlelit tables and an interpretation of the smoking ban<br />
that favours puffers, Kultowa is essentially a dingy, dive bar<br />
of the best kind. For a different kind of dance party, hit the<br />
‘Rockoteka’ on Friday and Saturday nights. The steep stairs<br />
leading back up to daylight read “Ja tu jeszcze wróce” (‘I will<br />
come back here again’) and have proven prophetic time<br />
and again. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00.<br />
PAEBXW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Breakfast<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Not a popular meal in Poland, breakfast means a<br />
cigarette and coffee to most, or if you’re lucky a plate<br />
of ham, cheese, tomato and bread. The concept of<br />
cooking a hot meal in the morning has yet to get this far<br />
east, but Soho (see <strong>In</strong>ternational restaurants) claims to<br />
serve breakfast all day, BLT & Flatbreads offers proper<br />
American pancakes and we are partial to starting the<br />
day at Mleczarnia. What sadly has made it this far is<br />
Starbucks - now open from 06:30 on the Rynek - and<br />
old McDonald’s, serving their McBreakfast from 07:00<br />
to 10:30 on the McMarket square.<br />
Art Restauracja i Kawiarnia A-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza<br />
20, tel. (+48) 71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. The<br />
Art Hotel’s Swedish-style breakfast buffet offers hot<br />
dishes along with plenty of ecological, organic products<br />
and traditional Lower Silesian specialties. Open to<br />
walk-ins, they will also gladly organise special business<br />
breakfasts. Q Breakfast served 06:30 - 10:30, Sat,<br />
Sun 07:00 - 10:30. (60zł). PTJA6UGBSW<br />
Bernard B-3, Rynek 35, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54,<br />
www.bernard.wroclaw.pl. On offer find scrambled<br />
eggs, sausages, muesli with fruit, grilled sandwiches<br />
and more. Q Breakfast served 10:30 - 12:00. (14-27zł).<br />
PTA6UBXSW<br />
BLT & Flatbreads A-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48)<br />
71 796 33 44, www.blt.wroclaw.pl. Okay, so it’s not<br />
open early exactly, but BLT has some of the best breakfast<br />
options around. Choose from American-style pancakes<br />
with strawberry sauce and maple syrup, French toast with<br />
crispy bacon, omelettes and toasted sandwiches. A great<br />
deal any time of day. Q Breakfast served 10:00 - 13:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 13:00. (10-15zł). PAUGBSW<br />
Cafe de France A-3, Rynek 20-22 1a, tel. (+48)<br />
785 99 86 64. This Parisian cafe has delicious coffee<br />
and a light menu including some limited breakfast offerings<br />
like scrambled eggs, crepes, croissants and toasted<br />
sandwiches. Not as great as it could be, but better than<br />
most by having something that passes as breakfast at all.<br />
Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 -<br />
02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. (8-35zł). PA6UGBW<br />
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71<br />
787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. Find a range<br />
of well prepared breakfast sets including egg breakfast,<br />
sausage breakfast and a cream cheese breakfast. Q<br />
Breakfast served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-18zł). TABXW<br />
Moloco B-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
01 32, www.moloco.pl. Another offering a series of<br />
breakfast sets named English, Polish, Country, French<br />
and Champion. Q Breakfast served 07:00 - 13:00,<br />
Sun 09:00 - 13:00. (15-20zł). PTAUGBSW<br />
Złota A-3, Rynek 6, tel. (+48) 71 716 59 29. A nice<br />
range of options here including omelettes, ciabattas, and<br />
larger breakfast sets. The English breakfast is admirable<br />
with two large fried eggs, two kinds of sausage, toast<br />
and bacon. There’s also a ‘Gigant’ breakfast for those<br />
who need an extra ration to fully soak up the previous<br />
nights liquids, and the market square seating is sublime.<br />
Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:00. (15-27zł).<br />
PTA6UGBSW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
53
54 NIGHTLIFE<br />
Breweries<br />
Bierhalle A-3, Rynek Ratusz 24-27, tel. (+48) 601 67<br />
74 52, www.bierhalle.pl. <strong>In</strong> a battle with Spiż for best local<br />
microbrewery, do your drinking under the parasols of their<br />
prime Rynek real estate during the sunny season, retreating<br />
into the restaurant during those six months of the year when<br />
wilful impairment is forced indoors. Continuing Wrocław’s<br />
long brewing tradition, this outfit does it all on-site and a<br />
lot better than the neighbours with wheat, pilsner and dark<br />
beers among those on draft. Prices are aimed at German<br />
tourists, and lager lovers that they are you’ll find plenty<br />
of them happy to pay for the privilege of a good ale. If it’s<br />
game day, you’ll find Bierhalle’s plethora of teles to be your<br />
best bet for catching the match. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />
11:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. From<br />
November open 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBW<br />
Spiż Brewery A-3, Rynek Ratusz 2, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 72 25, www.spiz.pl. After losing some ground in<br />
the Breslau best beer debate to Bierhalle, Spiż seems<br />
to have picked up the slack by unveiling a few new brews<br />
which combined with their caramel and honey beers,<br />
should be enough to convince your ladyfriend to give<br />
it a go. With seven unpasteurised, unfiltered brews in<br />
total, you should find something to your taste, though<br />
beer enthusiasts are a bit split about the quality. Though<br />
the staff are often engaged in open hostilities with the<br />
patrons, a free table in the summer beer garden is still<br />
a rarity, while an Oktoberfest atmosphere prevails in<br />
the dark cellars of the Town Hall. Spiż is still considered<br />
a must-visit by locals and remains perhaps Wrocław’s<br />
most recognisable bar. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun<br />
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PJABXW<br />
Jazz Clubs<br />
Collosseum Jazz Caffe B-4, ul. Piotra Skargi<br />
18a, tel. (+48) 781 55 92 22, www.jazzcaffe.com.<br />
pl. Located underground beneath the haunting (and we<br />
had thought abandoned) arcades of Partisan Hill, this<br />
long, narrow, crescent-shaped bar is as unique a venue<br />
as you’ll find anywhere. Suitably classy for the historical<br />
space it occupies, the brick interior comprises several<br />
booths, a long bar and a small stage at the far end where<br />
local jazzsmiths perform on Fridays and Saturdays (and<br />
sometimes Wednesdays). While often packed during<br />
performances, you’ll have your run of the place when the<br />
stage is empty and with daily food specials, Czech Primator<br />
on draught, microbrews in the fridge and an absolute<br />
peach running the place, we wouldn’t mind. A great venue<br />
waiting to be discovered. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat<br />
14:00 - 04:00. PAUEGBW<br />
Ragtime A-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 01,<br />
www.ragtimecafe.pl. <strong>In</strong> the years we’ve been visiting<br />
Ragtime not much has changed, only a few more grey<br />
hairs on the patrons. This is an engaging endeavour that<br />
refuses to follow fashions and as such has a charismatic<br />
personality of its own. Vermillion walls are home to all<br />
manner of visual diversions, from framed pics of jazz<br />
gods to a collection of musical instruments. A wrought<br />
iron mezzanine level allows the opportunity to admire<br />
all the clutter and the regular Tuesday, Wednesday and<br />
Thursday live jazz nights are not to be missed and are free<br />
to enter. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJAEBXW<br />
Mleczarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788<br />
24 48, www.mle.pl. We’ve been mainstays at this dusky,<br />
back-street, candlelit pub since our first days in town. Hidden<br />
in an enchanting courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue<br />
and a glorious oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic,<br />
while the sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed<br />
sketches captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better<br />
than anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A<br />
bohemian mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers<br />
drink through the debate topics of the day while an excellent<br />
mix of ethnic and indy music (always played at just the<br />
right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the<br />
kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to<br />
actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too. QOpen<br />
08:00 - 04:00. JAEBXW<br />
Niebo E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71<br />
342 98 67, www.niebocafe.pl. As long as you keep drinking,<br />
Niebo will stay open, and this has become an after-hours<br />
cult classic packed with students obliterating scholarships<br />
well after dawn; when one drops off there’s three more to<br />
replace them. A long, dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of<br />
random art photos and oddities, Niebo is the start and finish<br />
point for many Ruska pub crawls, so you’ll have to step over<br />
a few casualties on your way to the dancefloor, pumping your<br />
fist to the classic rock and 90s anthems. With Guinness on<br />
tap for 16zł, you don’t really need to do much better than<br />
this. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat<br />
13:00 - 08:00. PJAUEBXW<br />
Niskie Łąki E-4, ul. Ruska 46c, tel. (+48) 515 61 99<br />
40. Work your way deeper and deeper into a certain Ruska<br />
rabbithole/courtyard and you may notice the door to this<br />
windowless underground counter-culture centre in the midst<br />
of all the graffiti art. An anchor of Wrocław’s alternative scene<br />
following the mantra “Love Music, Hate Racism,” Niskie Łąki<br />
is full of colourful stockings and DIY haircuts with randomly<br />
painted tables and walls, avant-garde art exercises including<br />
roses pinned to the ceiling and an enormous glowing Mickey<br />
Mouse behind the bar. The actual barman, meanwhile, can be<br />
found carousing with his friends, so let someone know if you<br />
need a drink. Here it’s all about music as much as attitude,<br />
with new wave, punk, alternative and indy rock getting airtime,<br />
as well as occassional live concerts, film screenings and<br />
other happenings. Recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. AEGBW<br />
Paparazzi F-4, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
04 85, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Find a hyper cool crowd<br />
of platinum airheads and local hotshots dressed in collars<br />
and cufflinks in one of the best bars in the city. A rectangular<br />
bar is the centerpiece from which black clad hipsters mix<br />
cocktails with fatal precision, though any headache the<br />
next day is just as likely to be the doing of the steel column<br />
positioned right outside the gents; you have been warned.<br />
Grand colonnades support the ceiling, black and white prints<br />
of film icons cling to the walls and sexy music pipes in the<br />
distance; this is designer drinking exactly the way it should be.<br />
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PJAUBXW<br />
Pociąg A-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 77, tel. (+48) 500<br />
18 81 60. This Bogusławskiego veteran isn’t dissimilar<br />
from the area’s other winners, following (or inaugurating,<br />
perhaps) the general formula of candlelight, unplayable<br />
instruments, rickety repossessed furnishings and a divey<br />
saloon atmosphere aided by the card table on the ceiling and<br />
a few revolvers about in case you feel the urge to challenge<br />
someone’s honour. Named ‘Pociąg’ (Train) after the carriages<br />
rumbling overhead, the excellent, eclectic soundtrack jumps<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
from Tom Petty to the Coasters to Triplets of Belleville without<br />
missing a beat as the crowd of bohemian savants sip Czech<br />
Litovel and Holba beers on draught. Catch that train. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 01:00. AGB<br />
Pod Papugami A-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl. Packed with<br />
wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still manages to rate<br />
as one of the top drinkeries in town. Squeeze among the local<br />
stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels,<br />
projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Live music most<br />
nights, and the performances are usually very good indeed.<br />
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 -<br />
01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. JAEGBW<br />
Pub Pod Zielonym Kogutem A-4, Pl. Teatralny 8, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 342 01 87, www.zielonykogut.pl. A bit difficult<br />
to describe, this one, but highly likable and easily the best<br />
bar in the vicinity of the Opera House. A large, high-ceilinged<br />
room, Under the Green Rooster is designed to look like it’s<br />
outside with faux-windows set high in the walls as diners<br />
and drinkers enjoy draught Murphy’s, cheap pizzas and<br />
grilled ribs under unnecessary parasols and streetlamps.<br />
Cluttered with a vast collection of antique knick-knacks (and<br />
that conspicuous cock over the bar), an easy pub atmosphere<br />
is effected; so easy it would seem, that the service excuses<br />
itself for disappearing routinely. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />
15:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. PABXW<br />
Salvador A-3, Pl. Solny 16 (entrance from ul. Szajnochy),<br />
tel. (+48) 784 35 73 68, www.salvador.pl. Basement bar<br />
just off Pl. Solny featuring dark scarlet corners, low level seating<br />
and wild parties that only conclude after several students<br />
have attempted to pull drunken dance moves on the tables.<br />
Living up to its title there’s plenty of Dali associated weirdness<br />
on the walls, with sometimes profane photography and other<br />
random acts of art. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PABXW<br />
Schody Donikąd (Stairs to Nowhere) A-3, Pl. Solny<br />
13, tel. (+48) 71 341 84 55, www.schodydonikad.pl.<br />
An enormous bohemian hangout in what must have once<br />
been quite an immaculate private residence, Schody Donikąd<br />
has restored it to a sort of absinthe-infused grandeur with<br />
frilly bell-shaped lampshades laying down the lowlight, mismatching<br />
antique furnishings you wouldn’t want to spill a drink<br />
on, oriental rugs, ornate chandeliers, a couple of columns and<br />
the glorious woodwork of the original staircase and balustrades;<br />
if you like Graciarnia, you may have a new fave here.<br />
With live music nights, a regular playlist of sophisticated,<br />
seldom heard 70s R&B and jazzy 80s hip-hop, unpasteurised<br />
Tyskie on draught and an admirable cocktail list, this one’s<br />
a winner out of the gates and highly recommended. QOpen<br />
14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. PAEGBW<br />
Speakeasy A-3, Rynek Główny 8, tel. (+48) 510 22<br />
23 33, www.speakeasy.com.pl. An unusual venue, and<br />
less like a swinging Prohibition-era nightclub than a discreet<br />
back-door social club, this dim grey bar has an oddly industrial<br />
interior decorated with Godfather quotes and Al Capone’s<br />
death certificate, as well as a screen showing Eliot Ness-era<br />
film reels. Doubling as a bookshop selling crime and mystery<br />
novels (including used English language tomes for 10zł),<br />
Speakeasy’s drink list is heavy on whiskey and bourbon and<br />
wins points by starting off with the ‘Old Fashioned.’ The music,<br />
however, is nothing more than smooth contemporary jazz.<br />
Devoid of kitsch, but inconsistent in execution, as a theme bar<br />
it fails, succeeding instead as a curious place for a quiet drink<br />
with a date. Perfectly likable while being a letdown. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AEGBW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Live Music<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Wrocław boasts a great and growing music scene that<br />
is probably the best in southern Poland. Well positioned<br />
between Warsaw, Prague and Berlin, Wrocław has become<br />
a favoured destination for touring international artists, with<br />
Centennial Hall hosting large-scale music events for<br />
almost a hundred years now. The city is home to dozens<br />
of local artists who perform regularly in its bars and clubs,<br />
and we’ve listed the surest bets for catching a live performance<br />
below. <strong>In</strong> addition to the city’s jazz clubs (which<br />
we’ve given a separate section to) and those listed here,<br />
other great live music venues that are worthy of investigation<br />
include Puzzle Klub, Kultowa, Pod Papugami and<br />
Nietota. To find out what specific concerts are happening<br />
when you’re in town, check our Events calendar.<br />
Alive E-5, ul. Kolejowa 12, tel. (+48) 519 89 47<br />
69, www.alive.wroclaw.pl. One of Wrocław’s primary<br />
live venues, nightly acts range from punk and hardcore<br />
to alternative rock, with roots reggae and regular jam<br />
sessions in between. Full of bottles, beer ads, band<br />
photos and the local leather brethren all crammed into<br />
two vaulted rooms under the train tressle across from<br />
Zieliński Market, Alive is as intimate and authentic as they<br />
come, and with many of the gigs free, it’s worth a try on<br />
an otherwise aimless night. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Thu<br />
13:00 - 03:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun<br />
14:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW<br />
Eter Club A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19, tel.<br />
(+48) 797 33 96 68, www.eterclub.pl. If you’re sick<br />
of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly modern marvel for<br />
a lesson in grand dance-club design. One of the city’s top<br />
venues, Eter (Ether in English) looks the part with dazzling<br />
professional lighting and an incredible sound system - put<br />
to good use while hosting some of Wrocław’s best concerts<br />
and events. Spread over two underground levels<br />
with five bars, chill out on the splendid upstairs mezzanine<br />
overlooking the stage/dance-floor sofas before heading<br />
down into dance-floor carnage with an unpretentious<br />
crowd determined to take full advantage of the weekend.<br />
Open on weekends and during special events, check their<br />
website to see what’s on. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAUEXW<br />
Firlej E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 56, tel. (+48) 71 795<br />
66 67, www.firlej.wroc.pl. One of Wrocław’s best<br />
kept secrets. <strong>In</strong> The Know art students and wannabe<br />
playwrights fill this top-notch venue during legendary<br />
live shows. The interiors won’t inspire flights of artistic<br />
creativity - you’ll find many hotel bars with more daring<br />
decorations - but the atmosphere is electric. If you get the<br />
opportunity don’t hesitate to catch a show in Wrocław’s<br />
best concert venue. Q Open only during concerts. Check<br />
their website to see what’s on. PEGW<br />
Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu A-3, ul. Krupnicza 15<br />
(Hala Gwardii), tel. (+48) 71 796 30 76, www.<br />
odzmierzchudoswitu.pl. A superb vaulted venue with<br />
motorbikes standing behind the bar, and even a car<br />
chassis bursting from one of the walls. This labyrinthine<br />
complex has no problem with atmosphere, least not<br />
when its brick rooms crowd out for their live music<br />
concerts, which range from young local acts Weds) to<br />
wild rock nights and blues bandstands lapped up by<br />
beret-wearing music fans. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00, Tue,<br />
Wed 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PEBXW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
55
56 NIGHTLIFE<br />
Polish Friends of Beer Party<br />
Sure, it started out as<br />
a joke: <strong>In</strong> 1990 satirist<br />
Janusz Rewinski formed<br />
the Polish Friends of<br />
Beer Party (Polska<br />
Partia Przyjaciol Piwa<br />
or PPPP in Polish) to<br />
promote the country’s<br />
second most beloved<br />
polskapartianarodowa.org<br />
beverage during the<br />
new shift in government. The concept was popular<br />
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as<br />
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s<br />
democratic transition after the end of communism a<br />
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the<br />
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed<br />
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan<br />
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be<br />
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into<br />
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired<br />
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when<br />
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions<br />
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually<br />
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less<br />
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little<br />
remains of the group except for well-earned entries<br />
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and<br />
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that<br />
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a<br />
better standard of living.<br />
Strefa Zero (Laki Zaki) E-4, ul. Ruska 47/48a,<br />
tel. (+48) 667 69 80 08. One courtyard removed from<br />
the well-traversed Pasaż Niepolda you’ll find a few more<br />
dens of debauchery, including this gem. Strefa Zero is the<br />
ultimate alternative (literally underground) dive bar filled<br />
with dreadlocks, leather jackets, students, bartenders<br />
with fresh tattoos, old heads and howling women holding<br />
each other up/embracing around a ‘no liquor left behind’<br />
policy. The grey brick and cinderblock walls have been<br />
completely covered in collage, graffiti and chaotic mural<br />
art with furnishings as dark as the unhinged atmosphere.<br />
The music is a mix of just about everything, except what<br />
goes by ‘black music’ around these parts, and you might<br />
stumble upon a live concert or improvisational theatre<br />
performance. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 -<br />
04:00. EGW<br />
Szajba A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4, tel. (+48) 660 40<br />
42 70, www.szajba.wroclaw.pl. Hidden one courtyard<br />
east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged<br />
club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of<br />
hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios<br />
with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls<br />
above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists.<br />
The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the<br />
same attic antiques you find in many such places, with<br />
candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room<br />
for large groups. Outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative<br />
playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wi fi are just a<br />
few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass<br />
time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as<br />
our coffee came with a near-complete tic-tac-toe board<br />
drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning<br />
stroke. A great find. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat<br />
09:00 - 04:00. AUEGBW<br />
NEW<br />
The Winners Pub E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48)<br />
519 54 18 94, www.thewinnerspub.pl. As far as sports<br />
bars go, this is the best thing to happen in Wrocław for a long<br />
time and well overdue. A nice balance is struck between the<br />
intimate, modern interior of creme-coloured booths, all with<br />
a good view of one of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a<br />
projector), and the antiquated black and white sports photo<br />
wallpaper and outdated athletic equipment on the walls.<br />
There’s also a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of<br />
modern American food, with the specialty being steaks fried<br />
on a hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes<br />
from young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off<br />
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack<br />
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well as<br />
a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the White<br />
Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative, we’d<br />
say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily. QOpen<br />
12:00 - 24:00. PABXW<br />
Włodkowica 21 E-4, ul. Włodkowica 21, tel. (+48)<br />
71 784 48 18, www.wlodkowica21.com. The preferred<br />
watering hole for smokers and kids who look like they’ve<br />
just finished band practice, this fantastic boozer features<br />
bare bricks walls with empty picture frames, rickety furnishings<br />
and love seats with the springs sticking out. Every<br />
bit the hipster haven, find a chill hangout with a groovy<br />
playlist in the afternoons and a loud, smoky, somewhat<br />
sloppy circus at night, when the tiny bar can lead to long<br />
queues for a drink. The huge space is almost entirely<br />
given over to smokers so be prepared to play the square<br />
if you’re not as rock and roll as the crowd. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.<br />
PAUEBXW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Clubs<br />
Antidotum F-4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 32, tel. (+48) 603 03<br />
94 31, www.antidotumclub.pl. Set inside a network of<br />
underground tunnels just off the market square, Antidotum<br />
has established itself as one of Wrocław’s most reliable<br />
clubs for a memorable night out. With two dance-floors,<br />
two bars and several VIP sections, the space looks great<br />
with a design that’s kept to scrubbed stone walls, stripped<br />
wood floors, modern lighting and deep sofas, and filled<br />
with a fervent crowd of Miss Polska candidates. Though<br />
with the safe selection of club house tunes and occasional<br />
disco anthem there are few surprises in the DJ’s bag, this<br />
venue is still an ample ‘antidote’ for anyone who thinks that<br />
Wrocław’s nightlife isn’t top-notch. Q Open 15:00 - 04:00.<br />
Closed Sun. From November 16 open 18:00 - 04:00. Closed<br />
Sun. PAUGBW<br />
Bed Club F-4, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 372 58 01, www.<br />
bedclub.pl. Easily the most luxurious, exclusive, and overthe-top<br />
posh club in Wroclaw, Bed’s three-letter title belies<br />
its grand and lavish interior. There are five areas including<br />
the smoking room, the outdoor garden, the chill-out room,<br />
the main dance-floor and - of course - the VIP room. Each<br />
has a swanky yet vaguely cosmic East-Asian appeal, with<br />
incense and the glow of candle-light omnipresent. Reserve<br />
anything you can in advance and come well-dressed or not<br />
at all. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday, you won’t<br />
find a hotter or more exclusive club, but you’ve got to pay to<br />
play (typically 20-25zł). If you’ve got one night set aside to go<br />
celebrity-hunting, or just to get decked out and rub shoulders<br />
with hotties and big-wigs, go to Bed (so to speak). Q Open<br />
Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. PAEBXW<br />
Bezsenność (<strong>In</strong>somnia) E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż<br />
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 792 80 48, www.bezsennoscklub.com.<br />
The Ruska courtyard is hot news, and Bezsenność<br />
is the cherry on the cake. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles<br />
gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark<br />
concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the<br />
romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of<br />
an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance<br />
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything<br />
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,<br />
as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top<br />
concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their<br />
way to try and play in. A must visit. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PAUEBXW<br />
Cherry Club B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 501 55<br />
52 02, www.cherryclub.com.pl. Housed in what was<br />
Lemoniada, the décor seems to have changed little and this<br />
is still one of the top addresses in town. Get past the door<br />
police to find one of the smartest looking joints in town with<br />
a young crowd determined to have fun. Decent sounds and a<br />
well-stocked bar make this a popular venue meaning dressing<br />
up a little is not only worthwhile but necessary. Expect<br />
to dispense some cash at the door on weekends. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 03:00, Tue 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.<br />
Closed Mon, Sun. PAUXW<br />
Domówka A-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69<br />
12, www.klubdomowka.pl. If you come on a popular<br />
night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience.<br />
Once you’ve gotten past the face-control, entrance,<br />
security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed<br />
ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive<br />
elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a<br />
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s<br />
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Zakąski Przekąski<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers &<br />
Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some,<br />
these 24 hour budget snack bars have been appearing<br />
all over the city (and the country for that matter), cashing<br />
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices<br />
as everything else is getting more expensive. The Zakąski<br />
Przekąski formula includes a small selection of simple, local<br />
appetisers typically served cold and priced at 8zł, with drinks<br />
(coffee, vodka, beer, wine) at a fixed rate of 4zł. Familiar as<br />
the bar snacks of the lean communist years, the menu reads<br />
like a list of correct answers to questions from the Jeopardy<br />
category ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz<br />
(pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa<br />
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Having seemingly<br />
sprung up on every street in Wrocław, we list the best below:<br />
Nagi Kamerdyner (The Naked Butler) A-3, ul. Św.<br />
Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner.pl.<br />
An absolutely fantastic boozer that perfectly<br />
captures the dusky, tobacco-stained, outlaw elegance of<br />
Prohibition-era America with music from the1920s and<br />
‘30s, period photos and interrogation lamps, The Naked<br />
Butler is one of our favourite spots to soak up some suds<br />
before a big night out. With above-average hot and cold<br />
Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient location with<br />
a great summer garden underneath the legendary Manana<br />
Cafe, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning<br />
at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos<br />
and a beer. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 07:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAUGB<br />
Przedwojenna A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 81, tel. (+48)<br />
791 12 05 25. Another Zakąski Przekąski bar, Przedwojenna<br />
sets itself apart thanks to a great location just<br />
off the market square and plenty of atmosphere. Building<br />
off the misnomer that budget vodka snack bars were also<br />
fashionable during the 1920s, Przedwojenna (the name<br />
translates to ‘Pre-war’) captures the casual elegance of<br />
the period via a rugged interior of stained wood and slightly<br />
battered furnishings set inside a glorious building with high<br />
ceilings and a mezzanine level that looks directly onto St.<br />
Elizabeth’s church. There are a couple nods to the cult ‘20sera<br />
Polish crime flick, Vabank, but the two former models<br />
behind the bar perhaps best embody the atmosphere<br />
of fleeting beauty that Przedwojenna captures. Popular<br />
throughout the day as well as the night, the food is better<br />
than the competitors and Przedwojenna is on its way to<br />
becoming a Wrocław legend. Q Open 24hrs. PGBW<br />
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego<br />
50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.<br />
pl. For those who miss the Communist system in Poland<br />
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka (the Polish<br />
name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) recreates the<br />
spartan simplicity of a Communist bar or diner. However,<br />
instead of just a dreary room of empty shelves, gray walls,<br />
and unsmiling patrons, you’ll find a veritable homage to all<br />
things Communist. The time-warp motif covers most of the<br />
20-foot high walls as well as the bar, tables and decorations.<br />
Even the menu - a huge billboard-like sign looming above<br />
the bar - is a typically large, imposing and inflexible tribute to<br />
Communists days (and offers a grand total of sixteen items,<br />
including all drinks). There’s more ambience than there should<br />
be for a real historical re-enactment, but the low prices and<br />
completely casual dress do an old Communist watering hole<br />
justice. Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBSW<br />
September - December 2012<br />
57
58 NIGHTLIFE<br />
The tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic<br />
at the same time, and the coordinated light displays that<br />
continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a<br />
Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend<br />
wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you to<br />
dance party paradise. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 -<br />
05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW<br />
<strong>In</strong>stytut E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 693 54<br />
38 02, www.instytutklub.pl. A massive, modern space<br />
offering 3 levels to lush-hounds, including a laid-back,<br />
love-seated mezzanine, cool cocktail bar and downstairs<br />
dance madness, <strong>In</strong>stytut is a worthy addition to Pasaż<br />
Niepolda. Aiming to make itself a more upscale address in<br />
the neighbourhood, the sexily suit-vested and suspendered<br />
staff pride themselves on their drink inventions, but the<br />
beer flows just as freely and the atmosphere is hardly too<br />
fancy or elite for you to make a fool of yourself - exactly<br />
what the stewed, student crowd is up to on the swaying<br />
dance-floor. Believe it or not, in the afternoons this is a<br />
rather reliable place to use the wifi and have a coffee, or<br />
even a bagel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.<br />
PAEGBW<br />
Jazzda B-3, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 346 08 25,<br />
www.jazzda.pl. A tribute to the psychedelic swank and<br />
bell-bottomed boogie nights of the 60s and 70s, Jazzda’s illuminated<br />
chequered dance floor, disco lights and mirror balls<br />
invite you to recreate scenes from Saturday Night Fever<br />
every night of the week. The cocktails are as colourful as<br />
the outlandish technicolour pimper’s paradise decor of this<br />
popular market square club, where lounge lizards practice<br />
their Austin Powers pick-up lines on Polish pussycats until<br />
another Abba song comes on and they go squealing back<br />
to the dance-floor with their arms in the air. Expect an entry<br />
fee on weekends. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00, Thu 09:30 - 03:00,<br />
Fri 09:30 - 04:00, Sat 11:30 - 05:00, Sun 11:30 - 01:00.<br />
PAGBW<br />
Kalambur B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71 372<br />
35 71 ext.32, www.kalambur.org. An artsy bohemian<br />
headquarters by day, this tiny Seccessionist space becomes<br />
one of the sloppiest, most unhinged student clubs<br />
in Wrocław on weekend nights, with the party going on<br />
until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers bump into the DJ<br />
booth, the masses writhe to skipping recordings of everything<br />
from classic MJ to the Doors to Goran Bregovic. So<br />
chock-a-block with shimmying students and hipsters that<br />
dancers obstruct the door, so start testing your moves<br />
on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into the frying<br />
pan, friend. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.<br />
PUEBXW<br />
Mañana Cafe E-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 43 70, www.manana-cafe.pl. Reckoned by many<br />
to be the best night out in Wrocław, Mañana is certainly reliable<br />
for a raucous weeknight rave-up and well-loved by all<br />
those who live for long nights. Don’t let the lack of a proper<br />
dancefloor prevent you from doing your Travolta - spontaneous<br />
outbreaks of disco fever are rife and encouraged. The<br />
scruffy furnishings, red lighting and cheeky photos on the<br />
wall exemplify the balance between sexiness and silliness<br />
embodied by the randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s<br />
down-to-earth attitude and funky playlist of favourites from<br />
the last 50 years make it one of the most appealing places<br />
in the city to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a<br />
VIP room and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s<br />
now even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s<br />
lookers.QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat<br />
18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAGB<br />
Nietota A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664<br />
00 76 10. One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is<br />
a place for artist discourse, self-destructive decadence and<br />
debauchery. Endeavouring to embody the spirit of PL’s ‘Młoda<br />
Polska’ artistic movement, an awful lot of time has gone into<br />
the decor with almost every surface - including the tables, bar,<br />
walls and ceiling - covered in highly-illustrative original artwork<br />
that gives the space a creepy-cool nacht-cabaret atmosphere<br />
where concerts and theatre troops take the stage between<br />
weekend DJ nights. With the self-described Art Nouveau ambience,<br />
we disagree; the interior’s ubiquitous darkly cross-hatched<br />
characters with flayed flesh in contorted positions embrace<br />
more of a caustic post-war grotesque that wouldn’t look out of<br />
place as the art on a Tool album. Completely unique in style and<br />
atmosphere, the drinks list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s<br />
cherry beer to candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech<br />
Litovel on draft. Well worth seeking out. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. PAEGBW<br />
Obsesja A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
84 25, www.klubobsesja.com. A corking venue with industrial<br />
gray walls offset by a no-expense-spared décor that<br />
includes safari print sofas, curtained off boudoirs and glowing<br />
glass blocks. It looks great, but not half as fetching as the<br />
nymphs who swerve and slink under the glittery disco balls.<br />
The DJs like interspersing house with disco, and the results<br />
are often absolutely riotous as chiseled lads attempt dickish<br />
dance turns. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEX<br />
Pasja A-5, ul. Świdnicka 53, tel. (+48) 609 20 91 60,<br />
www.pasjaclub.pl. One of the hottest addresses in town,<br />
complete with a whirring disco ball and a voluptuous interior<br />
of Doric columns and vanilla seating. The impeccable crowd<br />
consists of vampy girls and lads on the verge of making their<br />
fortune practicing snake hip dance moves to the house<br />
sounds that thump from an excellent sound system. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAEXW<br />
PRL A-3, Rynek-Ratusz 10, tel. (+48) 71 342 55 26, www.<br />
prl.wroc.pl. Comrade Lenin (and his many portraits) invites you<br />
to this communist theme bar on the market square brimming<br />
with period propaganda, including some frighteningly authentic<br />
social realist oil paintings. It looks amazing and the novelty of<br />
the place may intrigue tourists who upon coughing up the cover<br />
charge are likely to find themselves far out of their element. Not<br />
really a nostalgia bar, this veteran dance club never left the<br />
Soviet era and 20+ years of democracy has done nothing to<br />
dent its popularity. As such you’ll find a bit of an older crowd with<br />
wandering hands getting sweaty to PRL-era Polish pop hits and<br />
disco polo tracks of seriously dubious musical merit. A cultural<br />
experience to be sure, and one you should be careful about<br />
committing to. Q Open 24 hrs. PABXW<br />
Puzzle Klub B-3, Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71<br />
341 13 91, www.klubpuzzle.pl. Who would have expected<br />
one of the city’s best alternative venues to be squatted right<br />
on the second floor of the Town Hall? Drawing a young crowd of<br />
liberally-pierced locals and unwashed Erasmus students, you’d<br />
hardly mistake the interiors as historical - Puzzle looks more like<br />
a warehouse gallery or recording studio, with sound-padded<br />
walls, a cheaply constructed bar and industrial spools for tables.<br />
Other clever touches include the menus tucked into the covers<br />
of old 45s and the jigsaw pieces for cloakroom tokens. With an<br />
indie DIY vibe, the stage at the far end regularly hosts concerts,<br />
literary readings, cabarets, film screenings, DJ parties and more,<br />
making Puzzle one of your best bets for finding something unique<br />
to do on any night of the week, while bolstering to your hipster<br />
cred at the same time. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Note that opening<br />
hours are subject to change. PAUEGBW<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Adult Entertainment<br />
Pruderia B-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 46, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 06 02, www.pruderia.com.pl. Surprisingly<br />
classy and subtle décor for a gentlemen’s club. If not for<br />
the five stars prominently displayed out front it would<br />
have a decidedly understated façade of modesty. The<br />
velvet and lavender walls are a nice touch to the skyhigh<br />
ceilings and wall-length burlesque paintings and<br />
portraits. The strobe lights, crystal-textured wall paper,<br />
and the music that is at a much more bearably low decibel<br />
than other locales will get you in your groove while you<br />
take in a performance or two or even treat yourself to<br />
a private dance. The central stage is easy viewing from<br />
the bar, and you can also get a good look at what’s on<br />
deck if you cleverly time your trips for refills. Come early<br />
before the crowd gets in if you want to feel like a sultan,<br />
or just the luckiest guy in Wroclaw for a few hours. QOpen<br />
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAG<br />
Stardust A-3, ul. Świdnicka 13, tel. (+48) 500 57 06<br />
31, www.stardustclub.pl. Get your shirt pressed and walk<br />
the red carpet (literally) on weekends to enter this thoroughly<br />
upscale and intimate fashion club full of white, black and silver<br />
crescent-shaped booths. Every surface gleams, including the<br />
shiny stripes on the black-clad Zoolander barstaff. The name<br />
‘Stardust’ suits it perfectly thanks to a foggy galactic pink<br />
dance-floor full of twinkling LED lights, and the house DJs<br />
hold up their end seamlessly beat-matching the latest clubbangers<br />
for the crowd of tomorrow’s reality TV stars. There’s<br />
a back room where the smoke is generated by cigarettes<br />
and delicious tapas to snack on when you’re not feasting on<br />
the fit clientele. You gotta pay to sashay, so expect a steep<br />
cover upon entry. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,<br />
Wed, Thu, Sun. PAXW<br />
Synergia A-3, Pl. Solny 16, tel. (+48) 606 49 01 20,<br />
www.synergiaclub.pl. This coffee and cocktail club in the<br />
basement of Plac Solny’s historic Stock Exchange building<br />
is well located and laid out for massive rave-ups, with the<br />
DJ station and a large dance-floor occupying the middle of<br />
the space. Synergia’s strengths are in its delicious coffee<br />
concoctions, cocktails, large selection of whiskeys and late<br />
hours which make it an ideal diversion for dawnbreakers. The<br />
interior is a mash-up of ideas with a few vintage furnishings,<br />
fashion photos and bright fluorescent pop art, so you may<br />
need to keep your beer goggles on, but rumour is that in<br />
September they will undergo a short renovation. <strong>In</strong> terms of<br />
music, you have some of the best DJs around spinning an<br />
eclectic selection that goes beyond house (though there’s<br />
plenty of that) to embrace plenty of alternative pop hits and<br />
funky bass lines Thurs-Sat. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Wed<br />
08:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. AEGBW<br />
Teatr Klub B-3, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 71 342 08<br />
30, www.teatrklub.pl. Taking over the enviable clubbing<br />
space at Oławska 9, Teatr Klub has finally developed a<br />
deserved following for this well-designed locale full of plush,<br />
low sofas, mirrors and modern lighting with two bars and<br />
separate VIP and smoking sections. The house music may<br />
not be original, but there’s always something hot happening<br />
on the weekends, from beauty pageants to body painting,<br />
followed by unbridled dance parties late into the night. To<br />
describe the clientele as nice to look at would be a bit like<br />
describing Hitler as a naughty boy. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00,<br />
Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. From October<br />
open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,<br />
Sun. PAXW<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Exclusive<br />
Striptease Club<br />
+48 509 720 650<br />
+48 71 343 06 02<br />
ul. O ar Owicimskich 46 lok. 1a<br />
Wrocaw<br />
e-mail: pruderia@pruderia.com.pl<br />
www.pruderia.com.pl<br />
September - December 2012<br />
59
60<br />
HISTORY<br />
So Where Exactly Am I?<br />
As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has<br />
been known by many names throughout its history. <strong>In</strong><br />
fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more<br />
often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands<br />
from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom<br />
of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Hapsburgs<br />
(1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia(1741-1871),<br />
into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),<br />
and finally back to Poland (1945-today and hopefully<br />
tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as the<br />
by-rights homeland of any one nation or people despite<br />
the past efforts of politically motivated revisionist historians<br />
to prove otherwise (the Recvoered Territories<br />
Exhibition of 1948). The city’s makeup has always been<br />
diverse culturally and religiously with Poles, Germans,<br />
Bohemians, Austrians and Jews all making significant<br />
contributions to Wrocław’s development. With so many<br />
influences and upheavals, Wrocław (as we know it today)<br />
has seen more than its fair share of names used<br />
in common parlance throughout the years, including<br />
Vratislava, Wrotizla, Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav,<br />
Presslaw and Bresslau (to name a few).<br />
On a stroll about the Old Town you will still sometimes<br />
see and hear Wrocław being referred to under its old<br />
German name, ‘Breslau’, particularly by and for the<br />
large number of German nostalgia tourists who come<br />
here to seek their roots. The Polish name ‘Wrocław’<br />
actually predates the German name, and is thought<br />
to have been derived from the name of the Czech<br />
sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name<br />
began appearing in documents shortly after Poland<br />
lost control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim<br />
that Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to<br />
Breslau in 1741, though this is subject to historical<br />
dispute. With the German population expelled in 1945,<br />
and Poland’s borders shifted westwards, post-war<br />
Wrocław was repopulated with citizens from what is<br />
now the Ukrainian city of Lviv (formerly Polish Lwow).<br />
The tens of thousands of migrants who arrived from<br />
the east not only changed the ethnic make-up of the<br />
city, but also its cultural life by bringing much of their<br />
former home’s cultural relics with them. Treasures<br />
taken from Lviv and moved to Wrocław include the<br />
Fredro statue in the main square, the library collection<br />
of the Ossolineum, and the epic painting the<br />
Racławice Panorama.<br />
The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature<br />
was a challenge historian Norman Davies<br />
encountered when writing his thorough history of<br />
the city; Davies eventually settled on ‘Microcosm’ as<br />
the title of his excellent book in acknowledgement of<br />
city’s standing as a constant crossroads for Eastern<br />
European cultures and concerns, and the unfairness<br />
of putting such a wide-ranging study under a title with<br />
a limited representation of its history. And while the<br />
temptation to re-title this little tome ‘Microcosm <strong>In</strong><br />
<strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>’ is ever-present, we’ve got enough connotative<br />
problems as it is…<br />
Wrocław has always been the<br />
dominant capital of Silesia,<br />
a region whose story begins<br />
with the establishment of a<br />
stronghold along the Amber<br />
Road and Via Regia trading<br />
routes on what is today<br />
Ostrow Tumski by the Slavic<br />
Sleza tribe in the 8th century.<br />
Absorbed into Czech<br />
Bohemia, the expanding fortress<br />
was first recorded in<br />
the 10th century under the<br />
name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name of<br />
the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. <strong>In</strong> 990, however, the Piast<br />
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and in 1000 Polish<br />
king Bolesław I established Silesia’s first bishopric, building<br />
a cathedral on the site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the<br />
Baptist (D-2). By the same year the city had expanded to<br />
1,000 inhabitants, becoming a religious and commercial<br />
centre that reached the left bank of the Odra River.<br />
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw<br />
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia<br />
numerous times, before finding some stability under the<br />
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so<br />
called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland<br />
was divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in<br />
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg<br />
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of<br />
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from<br />
Ostrow Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to<br />
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive walls<br />
around it, and laying out the market square as it appears<br />
to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic Germans<br />
soon became the most dominant demographic.<br />
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died<br />
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the<br />
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg<br />
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance<br />
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council,<br />
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in<br />
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town Hall<br />
and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type began<br />
in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name appearing,<br />
including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and Bresslau.<br />
By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s death ended<br />
prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession and transferred<br />
the city to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty - the Reformation<br />
had reached the Silesian capital and Protestantism had<br />
become the dominant religion. During the Thirty Years War<br />
(1618-48), the city fought to maintain its Protestantism,<br />
and though occupied, eluded physical destruction, emerging<br />
from the conflict as one of the only Silesian cities to remain<br />
Protestant under Habsburg rule. However plague and war had<br />
taken their toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the<br />
Counter-reformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged<br />
by the emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits<br />
who founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which<br />
would later grow into today’s Wrocław University.<br />
During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of Prussia<br />
laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops entered<br />
what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a conflict in 1741.<br />
Though heavily taxed and having lost the self-rule the city had<br />
enjoyed since the Middle Ages, Protestants could now express<br />
their faith freely in the new kingdom and Prussian authorities<br />
allowed for the establishment of a Jewish community. After<br />
the demise of the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Napoleon’s army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia<br />
- who lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation<br />
movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of<br />
Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the<br />
city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper<br />
in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,<br />
ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over the<br />
course of the century the population increased 8-fold (including<br />
the third largest Jewish population in Germany) and Breslau<br />
grew into the second largest city in Prussia; when the German<br />
Empire was consolidated in 1871, Breslau entered as the third<br />
largest city after Berlin and Hamburg. The construction of the<br />
Centennial Hall in 1913 perhaps best represents the ambition<br />
and achievement of this part of the city’s history.<br />
By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided damage<br />
and was even able to recover quickly from the economic<br />
impoverishment that came with the end of the conflict. <strong>In</strong> 1930<br />
it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche Kampfspiele’ - a showcase<br />
of German athletics after Germany was banned from the<br />
Olympic Games. The Nazi Party developed one of its largest<br />
support bases in Breslau, which played a large role in voting<br />
them to power in 1933. <strong>In</strong> 1938 state-organised persecution<br />
against the city’s minorities, particularly Poles and Jews, began<br />
in earnest and those who did not escape were killed or sent<br />
to the network of concentration and forced labour camps<br />
set up around Breslau, where many would die later. Safely<br />
removed from the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven<br />
for refugees and its population swelled to close to one million.<br />
<strong>In</strong> August 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city<br />
was declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held<br />
at all costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban<br />
on the evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late:<br />
railway connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded<br />
and tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice<br />
storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the<br />
Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted<br />
82 days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It<br />
was one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by<br />
four days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days<br />
after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and the<br />
western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated. Tens of<br />
thousands had died defending it.<br />
Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia<br />
passed to Poland and its largest city became known as<br />
‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced deportations<br />
from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the Soviet Union<br />
and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s German population<br />
took place simultaneously, leading to a huge influx of Eastern<br />
Poles into Wrocław, particularly from Lwów (now L’viv, Ukraine);<br />
Polish cultural treasures from Lwów came with them including<br />
the Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice<br />
Panorama painting and the collection of the Ossolineum library<br />
(see Sightseeing). A long period of reconstruction followed,<br />
characterised equally by Polonisation and de-Germanisation;<br />
all German monuments and inscriptions were removed and<br />
Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries were destroyed. At the same<br />
time Sovietisation was also beginning: businesses were nationalised,<br />
Polish political and religious leaders were imprisoned and<br />
following rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland<br />
was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took full<br />
credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their success<br />
rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the Soviet system;<br />
this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting of the propaganda parade<br />
known as the Recovered Territories Exhibition in 1948.<br />
By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former population<br />
level and established itself as one of Poland’s main<br />
urban, economic, cultural and academic centres despite<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
HISTORY<br />
Wrocław Historical Timeline<br />
990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating<br />
it into Poland<br />
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrow Tumski<br />
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia<br />
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is laid<br />
out, Germans become the dominant ethnic group<br />
1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of Bohemia<br />
1418: The city’s guild’s revolt, beheading the major and<br />
six members of city council<br />
1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against<br />
Jewish population who are executed or forced<br />
to convert to Christianity<br />
1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs Bohemia,<br />
including Silesia<br />
1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s Wrocław<br />
University<br />
1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia<br />
1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval<br />
defences are destroyed<br />
1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters<br />
as its third most prominent city<br />
1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built<br />
1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany<br />
1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched,<br />
homes looted and burned<br />
1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed<br />
fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment<br />
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and<br />
Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland<br />
1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged elections<br />
1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories Exhibition<br />
1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across<br />
Poland<br />
1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law. Solidarity<br />
activists are arrested and interned<br />
1983: Martial Law lifted<br />
1989: First free post-war elections in PL<br />
1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a<br />
third of downtown Wrocław<br />
1999: Poland joins NATO<br />
2004: Poland joins the EU<br />
2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish<br />
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,<br />
Russia<br />
2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football<br />
Championships<br />
being hamstrung by the political and economic conditions of<br />
the People’s Republic of Poland. <strong>In</strong> August of 1980, Wrocław’s<br />
workers joined the general strike called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity<br />
Trade Union led by Lech Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect<br />
from1981 to 1983, and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-<br />
Communist opposition throughout the 80s until Communism<br />
crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first freely<br />
elected president since WWII. <strong>In</strong> 1990, Wrocław’s first post<br />
Communist city council restored the city’s historical coat of<br />
arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance of its entire history<br />
(even the German bits). <strong>In</strong> July 1997 the city sustained the<br />
worst flooding in post-war Central Europe when the Odra<br />
River overflowed its banks leaving one third of the city<br />
under water. Poland joined the European Union in 2004 and<br />
Wrocław has emerged as one of the country’s leading cities,<br />
attracting significant foreign investment. The city was<br />
chosen to host matches during the 2012 European Football<br />
Championships, is to be European Capital of Culture in 2016<br />
and host the World Games in 2017.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
61
62<br />
ESSENTIAL WROCŁAW<br />
Wrocław Old Town<br />
There’s no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocław, and<br />
our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is<br />
eighty percent aimless wandering around. If there’s room<br />
for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find<br />
no more rewarding experience than meandering around the<br />
Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however,<br />
would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure<br />
they miss nothing of importance during their stay.<br />
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire<br />
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-<br />
3). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the<br />
social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings,<br />
concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and<br />
restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built<br />
in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a<br />
façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in<br />
World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s.<br />
Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly<br />
those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them<br />
experienced understandable updating (though a medieval<br />
cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly squareshouldered<br />
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a<br />
miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city’s<br />
defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways<br />
packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall<br />
you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known<br />
Town Hall (Ratusz)<br />
as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to<br />
the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four<br />
hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready<br />
to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is<br />
the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.<br />
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s<br />
Church (A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety), the city’s tallest. Stunning views<br />
of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb<br />
can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a stairmaster for<br />
some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac<br />
Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush<br />
for grotty students; don’t miss the university church (yes, even<br />
the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand<br />
Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the<br />
Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrów Tumski,<br />
pop into Wrocław’s proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on<br />
the corner of Piaskowa and Św. Ducha). Here you can pick-up<br />
fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy<br />
bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping<br />
needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living<br />
their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi<br />
(what, your radar’s not going off?)<br />
Crossing the river now, Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2) is packed with<br />
religious sights and historic significance. First settled in the<br />
8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was originally<br />
the centre of Wrocław before 1240 when the Tartars razed<br />
the place and the city began redeveloping on the other side<br />
of the river where, quite frankly, there was more room. After<br />
that Ostrów Tumski became an exclusively royal and religious<br />
sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconceivably maintained<br />
to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes and bars, etc, Ostrów<br />
Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes you miles away from<br />
the pace of life found throughout the rest of the city. Ideal for<br />
a romantic stroll, here you’ll find cobbled lanes, original gas<br />
lamps and lots of riverside greenery. Oh, and the churches:<br />
top of your list should be Cathedral of St. John the Baptist<br />
(D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning stained glass<br />
windows and for its 16th century altarpiece. To the right of<br />
the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now<br />
the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere<br />
these days). Not to be missed either is the Church of the Holy<br />
Cross, a rare two-level church with two separate parishes. For<br />
those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on<br />
crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens - one<br />
of the finest, most picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places<br />
for spending time in Wrocław.<br />
Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out<br />
on the Racławice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the<br />
trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long<br />
canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived)<br />
victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only<br />
remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a genre that<br />
was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the city’s<br />
museums we would class the restored Royal Palace (A-3,<br />
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the<br />
National Museum (D-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5) also<br />
more than worthy of a rainy day.<br />
With the additions of the dazzling Wrocław Fountain (or ice<br />
rink from November to April) and the Discovery Centre, a<br />
tram ride west of the centre to the Centennial Hall exhibition<br />
and park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. <strong>In</strong><br />
addition to the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument,<br />
here you’ll also find the Zoo and Japanese Garden in Szczytnicki<br />
Park. But the real gems are the Discovery Centre<br />
exhibit and the city’s new multimedia fountain which during<br />
short-sleeve season puts on an incredible display of water,<br />
light and sound every hour, on the hour (from May to the end<br />
of October). Finally, no visitor should leave Wrocław without<br />
having hunted down a few of the city’s infamous and elusive<br />
gnomes. Enjoy Wrocław.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Churches<br />
St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół św. Wojciecha)<br />
C-3, Pl. Dominikański 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 31, www.<br />
wroclaw.dominikanie.pl. This heavy, imposing church on Plac<br />
Dominikański is the oldest church on the left bank of the Odra River.<br />
It was founded in 1112 for the Augustinians and later handed over<br />
to the Dominicans. It was destroyed in the 1241 Tartar invasion and<br />
then again in the 1945 siege of Wrocław. Q Open 05:45 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 07:00 - 21:30. No visiting during mass please.<br />
St. Elizabeth’s Church (Kościół Św. Elżbiety) A-3, ul.<br />
Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl.<br />
Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and<br />
the tallest buildings in Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable.<br />
A church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the<br />
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th and 15th centuries. This<br />
is not the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529<br />
by heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the<br />
victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as a<br />
military garrison church. <strong>In</strong>side you’ll find impressive Gothic and<br />
Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of prominent citizens.<br />
The 91m tower (the original tower was 128m) is open to ablebodied<br />
visitors until the end of September (and after by request<br />
only, depending on the weather). We lost count after about 200<br />
steps, mostly due to the lack of oxygen in the narrow, twisting<br />
stairwell, though one reader has written to assure that the tower<br />
has 300 steps in all. The view from the top is more than worth the<br />
arduous journey and 5zł. Open daily, visitors should ask to be let<br />
in at the vestry. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. No<br />
visiting during mass please.<br />
St. Mary Magdalene’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii<br />
Magdaleny) B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 609 42<br />
84 23. This massive church was the second to be built on<br />
the left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During<br />
the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and<br />
was not returned to the Catholic church until after WWII. It’s<br />
most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque<br />
portal that was moved here from the Benedictine abbey -<br />
considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that<br />
era - and the ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,<br />
yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced after<br />
WW2. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. No visting during mass please.<br />
University Church of the<br />
Blessed Name of Jesus<br />
(Kościół Najświętszego<br />
Imienia Jezus) B-2, Pl.<br />
Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.wroc.<br />
pl. This Late Baroque church<br />
has been ranked among the<br />
most beautiful in Central Europe.<br />
It’s certainly the most<br />
impressive in Wrocław. The<br />
Jesuits built the church as<br />
part of the university complex<br />
in the late 17th century on the<br />
site of the Piast castle. Part of the castle structure can still<br />
be seen in the northern sacristy, the alcove at the far end of<br />
the church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is<br />
very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.<br />
Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18thcentury<br />
depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa, Asia<br />
and Europe. Visitors are given an audioguide which is available<br />
in seven different languages. Donations suggested, but not<br />
required. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00; note that church is frequently<br />
closed to visitors on weekends during wedding ceremonies.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SIGHTSEEING<br />
Guided Tours<br />
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90<br />
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. On top of tourist<br />
info and souvenirs, Na Solnym offers guided walking<br />
tours of Wrocław, with a special theme if requested.<br />
Excursions to interesting destinations outside Wrocław<br />
and throughout all of Poland are also an option. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
PTTK B-3, Rynek - Ratusz 11/12, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 83 31, www.pttk.wroclaw.pl. Tours of Wrocław,<br />
Lower Silesia, Auschwitz, Wieliczka and more (even beyond<br />
Poland’s borders, in Berlin, Prague and Dresden), specialising<br />
in group bus tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,<br />
Sun. Reserve one week in advance. Tours in English 480zł.<br />
Wratislavia Tour, tel. (+48) 793 15 43 30, www.<br />
wratislaviatour.com. Guided walking tours of all the<br />
main sights of the Old Town, or see even more of the<br />
city by being chauffeured around it in an electronic car.<br />
Tours around Silesia and to Kraków and Auschwitz also<br />
available as well as airport transfers. Q Reserve in<br />
advance. Tours in English, 300zł.<br />
Wrocław City Tours, tel. (+48) 513 946 946, www.<br />
wroclawcitytour.pl. Look no further. With over 30 different<br />
tours of Wrocław and Silesia available, these folks<br />
can arrange carriage rides, golf cart tours, river cruises,<br />
whatever you want. Tours available in English, German and<br />
Polish starting at 259zł. Call one day in advance.<br />
Wrocław Sightseeing Tours ul. Wita Stwosza 3,<br />
tel. (+48) 698 90 01 23, www.wroclawsightseeingtours.com.<br />
Offering a range of thematic tours in English,<br />
German and Spanish covering Wrocław’s city centre,<br />
Lower Silesia, Secrets of WWII, Bolesławiec, Auschwitz,<br />
Kraków, Wieliczka, Poznań, Częstochowa and more. They<br />
also now offer what we think is the first Great Escape<br />
Tour to the legendary POW camp at Żagań. You can also<br />
pick up their mp3 Wrocław walking tour by visiting their<br />
office. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Wrocław - Silesia Tours, tel. (+48) 509 96 00 34,<br />
www.wroclawsilesiatours.pl. Demonstrating Wrocław’s<br />
diversity with themed tours that trace the city’s different cultures<br />
and religions, Wroclaw Silesia Tours offer tours around<br />
the city in golf cars as well as on bikes (Wroclaw City Bike<br />
Tour). They can also take you to places a bit further afield<br />
such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia Góra or Auschwitz. Tours<br />
available in English, German, Spanish and Portuguese. Call<br />
one day in advance to negotiate prices.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Lower Silesian Cultural <strong>In</strong>formation Centre<br />
A-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,<br />
www.dcik.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation A-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Brochures, maps,<br />
events and advice. There’s also a second point at ul.<br />
Sukiennice 12 (A-3, open 10:00-18:00) offering all the<br />
above as well as internet access and ticket purchase<br />
for cultural events. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Note that<br />
opening hours may be shortened in the winter.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
63
64 SIGHTSEEING<br />
Racławice Panorama<br />
Racławice Panorama (Panorama Racławicka)<br />
C-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 23 44,<br />
www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. The Panorama is not just<br />
a painting. It’s a pilgrimage. The 140m-long canvas depicts<br />
the legendary General Tadeusz Kościuszko’s victory over the<br />
Russian forces at Racławice in 1794, and took just over nine<br />
months to complete. Peasants wielding scythes rush the<br />
ranks of Russian hussars in a heroic bid for independence.<br />
They win the battle, but the uprising comes to nought. Poland<br />
won’t be truly self-governing until the early 20th century. The<br />
painting was born in a burst of patriotic fervor in Lwów (now<br />
Lviv, Ukraine) a hundred years after the battle. Painters Jan<br />
Styka and Wojciech Kossak wanted to create a monument to<br />
Polish national spirit. Their work, displayed in a rotunda built<br />
especially for it, was a popular - and financial - success. After<br />
World War II, the Soviet Union, which had absorbed the city of<br />
Lviv, sent the painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was<br />
a bit too nationalistic for the local Communist authorities,<br />
who rejected several bids to display it. The current building<br />
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was not<br />
installed for display until 1985. Today school groups and<br />
hordes of others file in daily for a 30-minute taped lecture<br />
on the painting and its history. Headsets with commentary<br />
in 17 languages (including English, French, Russian, Spanish,<br />
German and even Esperanto) are available at no extra<br />
charge. Presentations are held every half hour. Around 1,600<br />
people per day turn up to admire the painting, so don’t think<br />
you’ll just be able to walk in straight away - expect queues.<br />
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
Closed Mon. From November open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission 25/18zł, family ticket 18zł.<br />
Stare Jatki<br />
Wrocław’s most engaging<br />
street can<br />
be found connecting<br />
Kiełbaśnicza with<br />
Odrzańska, and<br />
though most of the<br />
structures on Stare<br />
Jatki date from the<br />
17th and 18th centuries,<br />
the line of<br />
low level buildings<br />
were constructed<br />
on medieval foundations<br />
- some elements<br />
from the<br />
13th century are<br />
still visible on the<br />
south side of the street. Today the alleyway is home<br />
to numerous artists’ studios, though in past times<br />
the principal industry here was meat, the wooden<br />
stalls packed with the carcasses of butchered<br />
beasts. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the<br />
collection of cast iron farm animals at the start of<br />
the street. Sculpted by Piotr Wieczorek and erected<br />
in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to Slaughtered Animals’<br />
was funded by the local government (aside from the<br />
cock, paid for by the owner of Pod Zielonym Kogutem<br />
bar), and serves not only as one of Wrocław’s most<br />
photographed attractions, but also as an obstacle<br />
course for party casualties pouring out of Klub Na<br />
Jatkach.<br />
Monuments<br />
Alexander Fredro A-3, ul. Rynek Ratusz. Walking<br />
around Wrocław’s Rynek it’s impossible to miss the form<br />
of the elegant looking fella cast in stone sitting outside the<br />
Spiż microbrewery. That’s Alexander Fredro, one of Poland’s<br />
most distinguished literary figures. His statue replaced that of<br />
Kaiser Wilhelm who had stood on that spot during Wrocław’s<br />
incarnation as the city of Breslau. Although unharmed by the<br />
bombs and bullets of the war Wilhelm fell foul of the iconoclastic<br />
fury that was to follow in peacetime, and most likely<br />
ended up being tossed into a blast furnace. When Fredro was<br />
unveiled to the people of Wrocław in 1956 his plinth came<br />
without the aristocratic initials HR. Following popular condemnation<br />
the communist authorities relented and Fredro<br />
has since stood gazing forth in all his noble brilliance. Like<br />
the Mickiewicz monument in Kraków, or Zygmunt in Warsaw,<br />
the Fredro statue has grown to symbolize the city, and is the<br />
principal meeting point for both canoodling couples, students<br />
bashing bongo drums and political agitators.<br />
Monument to the Victims of the Katyń Massacre<br />
(Pomnik Ofiar Zbrodni Katyńskiej) D-3, Słowacki<br />
Park. Anyone who has an unindoctrinated knowledge of<br />
World War II history or who has spent more than 15 minutes<br />
in Poland, is probably familiar with the subject of this memorial<br />
which remembers the 22,000 Polish military officers,<br />
policemen, intelligensia and POWs murdered by the NKVD<br />
on Stalin’s orders in 1940. Designed by Warsaw sculptor<br />
Tadeusz Tchórzewski, the striking monument depicts the<br />
sword-wielding Angel of Death on a high pedastal over the<br />
figure of Katyń Pieta - the Matron of the Homeland despairing<br />
over the body of a murdered prisoner of war. Symbolic<br />
granite walls/graves flank the scene, with the names of the<br />
POW camps and places of mass murder inscribed on them.<br />
Anguished, terrifying and gruesome in turn, with detail down<br />
to the bullethole in the back of the fallen officer’s head, this<br />
evocative monument was unveiled in 1999 and can be found<br />
in the park next to the Racławice Panorama.<br />
The Anonymous Pedestrians (Pomnik Przejścia)<br />
A-5, Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul. Świdnicka. When<br />
you’re tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of cherubs,<br />
gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching important<br />
pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on down to the<br />
junction of Piłsudskiego and Świdnicka and have a look at an<br />
entirely different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike<br />
bronze statues descending into the earth that make up ‘The<br />
Anonymous Pedestrians’ are a memorial to the introduction<br />
of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the hordes of<br />
people who disappeared (‘went underground’) in the middle<br />
of the night courtesy of the militia. The work of Jerzy Kalina,<br />
the 14 statues were erected here in the middle of the night in<br />
2005 on the 24th anniversary of the introduction of martial<br />
law, though the prophetic moulds were actually made several<br />
years before the events they commemorate.<br />
The Naked Swordsman (Fontanna Szermierza)<br />
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki. The University of Wrocław presents<br />
plenty of superb photographic opportunities, but the most<br />
popular has to be the naked swordsman proudly standing at<br />
the entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer,<br />
the splendid sculpture was erected in 1904 and prompted<br />
complaints from parish priests that students would be morally<br />
corrupted by the statue’s naked form. Early grumblings<br />
were countered by the legend that the statue represents<br />
an extravagant gambler who squandered all but his sword<br />
in drunken card games - thus serving as an example to the<br />
university’s 14,000 students. Town mayor, George Bender,<br />
agreed and the statue has stood ever since.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Museums<br />
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)<br />
A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16<br />
96, www.mmw.pl. Like all the best museums in Poland,<br />
Wrocław’s Archaeological Museum is located inside a<br />
building that’s a museum in itself. <strong>In</strong> this instance the<br />
city’s former 15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual<br />
suspects found lurking in most museums of its type. There<br />
are English captions now for many exhibits, while others,<br />
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched<br />
house fascinate without the need to know more. There are<br />
three permanent exhibitions - Medieval Silesia with the<br />
reconstructed thatched house mentioned earlier, Ancient<br />
Silesia - Stone Age and early Bronze Age and Ancient Silesia<br />
- Bronze and Iron Age. On display are everyday objects<br />
from these times such as military items, ornaments and<br />
tools. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon, Tue. Admission 7/5zł, Wed free.<br />
Architecture Museum (Muzeum Architektury)<br />
C-3, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78,<br />
www.ma.wroc.pl. A unique exhibition inside the gorgeous<br />
16th-century former Bernadine monastery, the city’s architecture<br />
museum is more of a record of all that was lost in<br />
the city during WWII than a true museum of architecture.<br />
Permanent displays include beautiful examples of stained<br />
glass from the 12th century through to some spectacular<br />
Art Nouveau pieces, a breathtaking collection of tiled ceramic<br />
stoves, intricate door handles, Turkish floor tiles and<br />
a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles. There’s a large model<br />
of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly shows its status<br />
as a fortress surrounded by water, and the occasional<br />
temporary exhibit to keep the eyes peeled for. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł<br />
per person, Wed free.<br />
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)<br />
H-5, ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344<br />
33 13, www.muzeumetnograficzne.pl. The best part of<br />
the Ethnographic Museum is on the top floor. Life-size dolls<br />
are arranged in quaint scenes of life in Silesia before 1945.<br />
It won’t take you long to see it, but the national costumes<br />
and farm equipment offer a glimpse of life you won’t find<br />
in urban Wrocław. And the museum’s strange fondness for<br />
the definite article in the English labels is worth a giggle.<br />
Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice Panorama.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.<br />
Admission 5/3zł. Groups over 10 people 2zł per person,<br />
Sat free.<br />
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) D-3, Pl.<br />
Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50,<br />
www.mnwr.art.pl. Wrocław’s National Museum houses<br />
one of the largest collections of Polish art. Before the 18th<br />
century this means almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces,<br />
urns for relics, busts of saints and the like. Later<br />
parts of the collection also include applied arts and quite a<br />
few pieces on national themes (uprisings and saints figure<br />
heavily in Polish history). By far the most interesting bit is<br />
the 20th-century collection. <strong>In</strong>novative installation artists<br />
like Magdalena Abakanowicz and Józef Szajna make this<br />
an exciting period in Polish art. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of<br />
each month). From October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun<br />
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except last Tue of each<br />
month). Admission 15/10zł. Groups over 10 people 5zł<br />
per person, Sat free. Entry free with a ticket to the nearby<br />
Racławice Panorama.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SIGHTSEEING<br />
All Saint‘s Day<br />
mayanais, Flickr.com<br />
Readers expecting a wild time of week-long costume<br />
parties and rollicking Halloween debauchery may be<br />
shocked to discover a rather sobering, sombre scene<br />
the during the evenings of November 1 and 2 in Poland.<br />
Known nationally as All Saints’ Day (Dzień Wszystkich<br />
Świętych) and All Souls’ Day (Dzień Zaduszny, or Dzień<br />
Wszystkich Zmarłych) respectively, these two days of the<br />
calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute<br />
to the deceased by visiting their graves. <strong>In</strong> accordance<br />
with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make<br />
pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending<br />
the graves with a care that is truly touching, before<br />
laying wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit<br />
throughout the length of the holiday. As night descends,<br />
the country’s graveyards are aglow with the warm light<br />
of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an<br />
eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be<br />
missed by anyone with a heart that still beats.<br />
While visitors to Wrocław may not have ancestors buried<br />
here, a trip to one of the city’s cemeteries during this unforgettable<br />
ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While we could<br />
wax poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense<br />
candlelight, the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle<br />
smells of the incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the<br />
shades of ravens in the trees, the wet grass and mists,<br />
and the surreal duality of the supernaturally charged, yet<br />
tranquil atmosphere, we’d prefer you just experience it<br />
for yourself. We also challenge you to find a lonely, unlit<br />
grave and place a candle on it (it won’t be easy).<br />
Below are Wrocław’s most centrally-located Catholic<br />
cemeteries.<br />
Osobowicki Cemetery (Cmentarz Osobowicki)<br />
E-1, ul. Osobowicka 47-59. To get to this<br />
large cemetery north-west of the centre, catch tram<br />
numbers 14 or 24 from the ‘Rynek’ stop, getting off at<br />
one of the two stops named ‘Osobwicka.’ Or just follow<br />
the hundreds of people. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00. From<br />
November 12 open 08:00 - 18:00.<br />
St. Lawrence’s Cemetery (Cmentarz św.<br />
Wawrzyńca) I-3, ul. Bujwida 51. To get to this cemetery,<br />
catch tram 17 (you can catch it from the ‘Rynek’ or<br />
‘Świdnicka’ stops) or 9 (from Galeria Dominikańska or<br />
the train station), getting off at the ‘Grunwaldzka’ stop.<br />
Q Open 24hrs.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
65
66 SIGHTSEEING<br />
Partisan Hill<br />
Partisan Hill B-4. If<br />
you’re walking along ul. Ks.<br />
Skargi it’s impossible to<br />
miss the white crescentshaped<br />
structure rising<br />
by Most Skargi. Wzgórze<br />
Partyzantów (Partisan Hill)<br />
is one of the few remaining ancient fortifications that<br />
once protected the Old Town from invasion. Built between<br />
1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the name Bastion<br />
Sakwowy (Saddlebag Bastion), the buildings you see<br />
now topping the horizon date from the 19th century when<br />
the area was redeveloped to serve as public recreational<br />
space. A fearsome tower, designed by Berlin architect<br />
Carl Schmidt was added in 1867, though this was demolished<br />
during WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops<br />
from using it as a reference point for artillery shelling.<br />
At the start of the siege of Festung Breslau the subterranean<br />
bunkers and catacombs were used as HQ by Nazi<br />
high command, though they relocated in March 1945 as<br />
the Red Army drew closer. After the war the hillock was<br />
re-christened Partisan Hill and the old cellars temporarily<br />
housed a museum. Despite various areas being occupied<br />
by beer gardens, a jazz club, strip club, and now a new<br />
restaurant/bar in the old observatory, much of the area<br />
remains unrenovated, forlorn and forgotten - a once<br />
gleaming construction littered with smashed bottles<br />
and spray can squiggles. The wind-swept loneliness that<br />
greets visitors is ripe for myth and legend, and stories of<br />
secret Nazi tunnels and the ghostly shrieks of prisoners<br />
tortured to death in medieval times abound.<br />
The Ossolineum<br />
The Ossolineum B-2, ul. Szewska 37, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 44 71, www.oss.wroc.pl. This stunning Baroque<br />
palace complex on the Odra riverbank was rebuilt to its<br />
late 17th century designs after being damaged heavily<br />
during the war and is today one of the most outstanding<br />
works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a<br />
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent<br />
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an<br />
important research centre and national archive, the<br />
country’s oldest still-running publishing centre and one<br />
of its largest library collections. Established in 1817 by<br />
Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński when he began collecting<br />
Polish manuscripts and cultural documents in his Vienna<br />
flat, recognising their importance to national culture<br />
after Poland was wiped from the world map, Ossoliński’s<br />
private library became a national institute and was<br />
eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously.<br />
After post-war border changes the collection was forced<br />
to move to Wrocław, however communist authorities<br />
confiscated over 80% of it which presumably remains in<br />
L’viv today. The collections of the Ossolineum are some of<br />
the most valuable in the country and include manuscripts<br />
by Polish bards Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki,<br />
writings by Copernicus, and drawings by Rembrandt and<br />
Durer. The site of regular exhibitions, often free, the Ossolineum<br />
is otherwise worth a look around for the building<br />
itself, with the library and inner and outer courtyards all<br />
accessible to the public. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Mon,<br />
Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From October open<br />
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun<br />
Post & Communications Museum (Muzeum<br />
Poczty i Telekomunikacji) C-3, ul. Krasińskiego<br />
1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, www.muzeum.wroclaw.<br />
pl. Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this<br />
magnificent building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław<br />
and is easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the<br />
crown of satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one<br />
of the city’s most idiosyncratic and fascinating museums,<br />
displaying the complex history of Poland’s postal service<br />
and the development of communications technology from<br />
the 16th century to the present day. Over two floors you’ll<br />
see a wealth of paintings and graphics, postage stamps,<br />
mailboxes, carriages, uniforms, decorative letter scales and<br />
other instruments including early telegram machines, telephones,<br />
radios and computers. The unique and engrossing<br />
experience even includes information in English and is a great<br />
way to change your attitude towards PL’s postal service from<br />
one of frustration to admiration and wonder. Visiting takes<br />
about 1 hour and is recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00,<br />
Wed 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission<br />
7/6zł. Groups over 10 people 4zł per person, Sun free.<br />
The Royal Palace, History Museum (Pałac<br />
Królewski, Muzeum Historyczne) A-3, ul. Kazimierza<br />
Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40, www.mmw.<br />
pl. Wrocław isn’t particularly known for its museums, the<br />
majority of which are underfunded and outdated. However<br />
the opening of the main branch of the Wrocław City Museum<br />
inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace changed all that.<br />
Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1750, the<br />
palace was converted to become the royal residence of the<br />
Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function which it served from<br />
the 17th to 20th century. Badly damaged during WWII, only<br />
half of the structure survived and now houses the permanent<br />
exhibition, ‘1000 Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history<br />
of the Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to modern<br />
day through its art and artefacts, including meticulous recreations<br />
of the royal apartments and the unique Beyersdorf<br />
Room decorated entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century.<br />
The upstairs contains a collection of contemporary, post-war<br />
paintings. Also don’t miss the regal baroque gardens behind<br />
the palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission 15/10zł. English-speaking guided tour 400zł.<br />
Audio guides in English and German 10 zł.<br />
Town Hall, Museum of City Art (Ratusz, Muzeum<br />
Sztuki Mieszczańskiej) A-3, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71<br />
347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. The first thing you’ll probably<br />
notice about the Town Hall (Ratusz) is that it seems to be<br />
patched together from bits and pieces of a dozen different<br />
buildings, and in many ways it was. Construction began in<br />
the end of the 13th century and continued - through all the<br />
changing political and artistic forces - for about 250 years.<br />
The Town Hall was the centre of city life up until the early<br />
20th century, housing the Town Council, merchants’ stalls<br />
and - most importantly - a beer cellar. The building escaped<br />
relatively unscathed after World War II (an estimated 10%<br />
was damaged). After reconstruction work, it was re-opened<br />
as the Museum of City Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej).<br />
<strong>In</strong>side you can see the remarkable Gothic interiors and a<br />
collection of silver and other city artefacts. <strong>In</strong> the Treasury<br />
room, look for the new flower-shaped decorative keystones<br />
which replaced Nazi symbols installed during World War II.<br />
The most fun part of the Town Hall to explore is the elaborate<br />
exterior decoration. See if you can find scenes from Aesop’s<br />
fables, or grotesque scenes of medieval pub life. Note that<br />
exhibits are poorly marked, there are few signs and finding<br />
your way around can be a bit of a stab in the dark. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission<br />
10/7zł, Wed free.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
While you’re gawping at the medieval beauty of Wrocław’s<br />
Market Square (Rynek) keep this in mind: in 1945 much of<br />
the square was levelled by the war. Such was the dedication<br />
of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - the resettlers from the east - that<br />
the remarkable ensemble you see today was faithfully rebuilt,<br />
though not before many of the original bricks had been sent<br />
to help with the post-war Warsaw rebuilding effort. Done<br />
with a remarkable attention to detail, tourists can now even<br />
admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Town<br />
Hall) used to flog people from 1492 to well into the 18th<br />
century. Topped with the figure of a hangman the column<br />
was originally the work of Briccius Gauske and it was here<br />
that prostitutes and thieves were lashed. <strong>In</strong>deed, being on<br />
the wrong side of the law in Wrocław was a dangerous occupation.<br />
Other punishments meted out on this spot included<br />
the severing of hands, ears and noses, all of which would be<br />
enthusiastically lapped up by the watching crowds.<br />
Wrocław’s principal gallows was positioned outside the<br />
house on Rynek 19, the condemned accompanied on their<br />
final walk by the doleful dong of the ‘Sinners Bell’ once found<br />
in St. Mary Magdalene’s Church. According to local legend<br />
the town bellmaker killed his apprentice in a blind fury after<br />
the lad interfered with the important churchbell, casting it<br />
without him. Finding it perfectly crafted, the repentant bellmaker<br />
confessed his sin and was sentenced to hang. His<br />
final request was to walk to the gallows to the perfect pitch<br />
of the bell, and from there the tradition stuck.<br />
Further on the south side of the Rynek stands the strange<br />
sculpture of a brown bear on a tree stump outside the<br />
entrance of Piwnica Świdnicka in the Town Hall; rub his<br />
tongue for luck before continuing on to the statue of Count<br />
Alexander Fredro. A legendary comedy writer, his statue<br />
was brought from Lvov in 1956, replacing the statue that<br />
had previously occupied the space up until the end of the<br />
war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. Formerly the home of the<br />
Wrocław fish market, from 1545 until 1745 it was also the<br />
site of ‘the madman’s shed’ - a cage where drunks and other<br />
miscreants would be incarcerated. City records reveal those<br />
imprisoned ranged from a cross-dressing woman to a pair<br />
of compulsive gamblers caught engrossed in a card game<br />
during a church sermon.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
OLD TOWN<br />
The market square and much of the grid of streets around it<br />
was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was then and remains<br />
even now one of the largest squares of its kind in Europe.<br />
Its centre is dominated by the Gothic Town Hall and an ensemble<br />
of buildings that replaced the original trading stalls.<br />
Surrounding the Town Hall are buildings whose facades range<br />
from Gothic to Art Nouveau (Rynek 6) - with only a little bit of<br />
modern thrown in for comparison’s sake: for instance, that grey<br />
ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. Completed in 1931 the<br />
structure was designed by Heinrich Rump and is a glimpse at<br />
what the market square might have looked like had a ludicrous<br />
project to modernize the historic centre ever come to fruition.<br />
It was the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss<br />
called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings surrounding<br />
the Town Hall, replacing them with 20 storey concrete towers.<br />
After much deliberation city authorities abandoned the plan, in<br />
the process saving the Wrocław loved by all today.<br />
<strong>In</strong> lieu of addresses, the buildings originally had symbols from<br />
which they took their names. Since the symbol was generally<br />
placed above the door, the buildings would be called, for example,<br />
Under the Golden Eagle (Pod Złotym Orłem, Rynek 4).<br />
Most of these are still visible and have given their name over<br />
to whatever restaurant or bar has moved in. The majority come<br />
steeped in legend and history, with the building at number 7<br />
once serving as an inn for visiting regents and nabobs. Under<br />
the Golden Dog (Pod Złotym Psem, Rynek 41), meanwhile, is<br />
one of the most haunted houses in Wrocław. The sounds of<br />
carpentry can allegedly be heard on the stroke of midnight, while<br />
another tale claims that Frederick the Great was once staying in<br />
the residence, when all of a sudden a demonic force snatched<br />
his feather quilled pen and hurled him across the room. It’s not<br />
the only house where you’ll find scary goings-on. The house on<br />
the corner of the Rynek and ul. Mikołaja is allegedly haunted<br />
by a particularly nasty chap who was possessed by a goblin<br />
living in the bell tower of St. Elizabeth’s Church. Motivated by<br />
greed he murdered his grandmother for the sake of her fortune.<br />
Adjacent to the Market Square is Plac Solny, which is almost<br />
as impressive architecturally, especially with its elaborate<br />
reliefs and figurines bursting from the facades. Formerly<br />
home to a bazaar specializing in salt, leather and honey the<br />
centre is now a 24 hour flower market - which is good news<br />
for budding romeos, looking to delight any beauties they<br />
may have seduced on the dance-floors of Wrocław. But Plac<br />
Solny has also played a darker role in Wrocław’s past. It was<br />
from the windows of a house here that John of Capistrano<br />
conducted fire and brimstone sermons in 1453. Holding a<br />
human skull in one hand, his diatribes and rants inspired his<br />
captivated flock to throw cards and mirrors into a bonfire.<br />
Unfortunately the fiery antics didn’t stop there. It was partly<br />
under John’s instigation that a panel of city chiefs ordered<br />
the arrest of all Jews. They were given a stark choice: convert<br />
to Christianity, or face death at the stake. They chose the<br />
latter with many, including the rabbi, committing suicide. The<br />
other 41 were famously burned at the stake on Plac Solny<br />
on July 4th, 1453.<br />
Although much of Wrocław’s historic centre was subject<br />
to meticulous renovation after the war the millhouses and<br />
wooden cottages that once lined the canal were never rebuilt,<br />
and nowadays this belt of land remains a quiet, meditative<br />
spot in the centre of the city. Delving back into the heart of<br />
the historic centre the numerous side streets that sprout<br />
off ul. Kiełbaśniczna are well worth exploring, most notably<br />
Stare Jatki; formerly filled with rows of butchers stalls, this<br />
cobbled alleyway features a collection of cast-iron farm<br />
animals in reference to its past, though today its principal<br />
industry lies in selling local artwork to those with plenty of<br />
cash at their disposal.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
67
68<br />
OSTRÓW TUMSKI<br />
© tomislavmedak, flickr.com<br />
Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem<br />
at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where the<br />
city began. During the latter part of the ninth century what is<br />
now known as Ostrów Tumski (the name means Cathedral<br />
Island in Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Śleżanie,<br />
who - not without reason - considered the island impregnable.<br />
For a thorough history lesson you may want to view the scale<br />
model of this, Ostrow Tumski’s earliest incarnation, over in<br />
the Archaelogical Museum (A-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9).<br />
The first Silesian bishopric was built on the island in 1000,<br />
and the town flourished until its almost total destruction<br />
during the Tatar invasions of the 1240s. After that date the<br />
town developed on the other side of the Odra river, and Ostrów<br />
Tumski became a place of almost exclusively royal - the<br />
Piast Dynasty built a castle here in the 1260s - and religious<br />
significance. With a few exceptions it remains primarily a<br />
place of worship and reflection to this day; there are few<br />
shops, dwellings, cafes and restaurants, and the Wrocław<br />
Archdiocese occupies almost all of the beautifully maintained<br />
classical buildings you will see.<br />
The first thing the modern visitor notices however about Ostrów<br />
Tumski is that, though accessed from central Wrocław<br />
by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until the 19th<br />
century, but persistent flooding led town planners to fill in one<br />
of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (not that that has prevented<br />
further flooding). Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek,<br />
perhaps the real joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel.<br />
ul. Katedralna and ul. Idziego both provide cobbled reminders<br />
of the past - Idziego especially, though it lacks the in-your-face<br />
sights of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit<br />
today by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame<br />
for a picturesque, romantic evening stroll.<br />
But we are getting ahead of ourselves. A visit to this lovely,<br />
peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins at Most Piaskowy<br />
(Sand Bridge). This is the oldest bridge in Wrocław, built in<br />
1861 and an engineering marvel, if no great shakes on the<br />
architectural front. The original bridge, built back in the 11th<br />
century, was part of the ancient trade route - the Amber<br />
Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to Vienna, and thence<br />
to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi you will pass the<br />
Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the<br />
Baroque and sadly graffiti-strewn University Library, and the<br />
Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous for<br />
its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern nave.<br />
From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski (Tumski<br />
Bridge) leads you across to the oldest part of the city; look<br />
out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig), Silesia’s patron<br />
saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s patron, at the head<br />
of the bridge. Also of note are the padlocks placed on the<br />
bridge by newlyweds to symbolise the unbreakable bond<br />
they share going forward in life together.<br />
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Katedra św.<br />
Jana Chrzciciela) D-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48)<br />
71 322 25 74, www.katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. As<br />
you walk along ul. Katedralna, which leads to the Cathedral,<br />
you are on the same path that the original inhabitants of the<br />
island walked. <strong>In</strong>deed, if you poke around the stones near the<br />
cathedral, you should be able to see the outlines of some of<br />
the buildings that used to stand on the island.<br />
The cathedral remains a living, working church and as a visitor<br />
you will undoubtedly encounter queues of people waiting patiently<br />
for the confessionals and others in quiet worship. The<br />
elegant double-spired Gothic building stands like a sentinel<br />
at the end of ul. Katedralna, its elaborate portal one of the<br />
most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see<br />
today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When<br />
construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building<br />
in Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued<br />
for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic<br />
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing<br />
the Virgin Mary falling asleep. The Cathedral suffered massive<br />
damage in WWII, with traces of bullet holes still visible,<br />
and has been meticulously rebuilt since. Of interest, to some<br />
at least, the cathedral houses the largest organ in Poland,<br />
which prior to the war was also the largest in the world. But<br />
the real highlight of the Cathedral is the panoramic view from<br />
its tower, which can be yours for 5zł (kids under 14 free).<br />
An elevator takes you to the top of the Cathedral’s tower,<br />
which offers a wonderful view of the city and surrounding<br />
countryside. There’s also a small exhibition at the top of the<br />
tower featuring various objects brought back from missions<br />
although be warned the tower closes during the winter as<br />
it is not heated. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00.<br />
No visiting during mass please.<br />
© Klearchos Kapoutsis, flickr.com<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)<br />
D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11<br />
78. To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese<br />
Museum (D-2, Pl. Katedralny 16), a do-it-yourself<br />
museum that throws rooms full of religious art at you and<br />
you’re left to decide for yourself what to make of it. Much<br />
of the art is recent - the work of local religious orders,<br />
but the largest room is filled with invaluable medieval<br />
works from around Poland. Art historians will no doubt<br />
find plenty of interest. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed<br />
Mon. Admission 4/3zł.<br />
The Church of the Holy Cross/St. Bartholomew’s<br />
C-2, Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. One of<br />
Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures,<br />
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase,<br />
this curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split<br />
over two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows<br />
of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring<br />
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The<br />
first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in<br />
all of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act<br />
of reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry<br />
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus<br />
of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy<br />
Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the<br />
National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large<br />
sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732. Q Open<br />
during mass only. The lower church (St. Bartholomew’s) is<br />
currently closed to visitors.<br />
St. Martin’s Church<br />
(Kościół Św. Marcina)<br />
C-2, ul. Św.<br />
Marcina. This tiny and<br />
somewhat irregularly<br />
shaped brick church is<br />
all that remains of the<br />
Piast dynasty’s 13thcentury<br />
royal castle,<br />
which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, however,<br />
was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries.<br />
Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture<br />
in a primarily German city. Poles gathered here to<br />
hear sermons and sing hymns in their own language.<br />
The last Polish mass under Nazi oppression was held<br />
here in 1939. A plaque outside reads in part, “We are<br />
Poles... A Pole is a brother to a Pole... Poland is our<br />
mother, we cannot speak badly of our mother.” Outside<br />
St. Martin’s stands a massive monument to Pope John<br />
Paul II, placed here in 1986.<br />
Botanical Garden (Ogród Botaniczny) D-2,<br />
ul. Sienkiewicza 23, tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57,<br />
www.ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.pl. To complete a<br />
thorough visit to the island you should not miss the<br />
charming Botanical Gardens (D-2, ul. Sienkiewicza<br />
23). The gardens began life as a scientific pursuit,<br />
but have become a favourite retreat for Wrocław’s<br />
residents. The garden was built from 1811 to 1816 on<br />
the riverbed where the Odra once flowed around Ostrów<br />
Tumski. The grounds include a huge diversity of plant<br />
life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant shop and cafe, and<br />
a large pond with picturesque bridges. On some days<br />
your peace and quiet could be marred by noisy groups<br />
of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured landscapes<br />
include enough nooks and crannies that you should have<br />
no trouble forgetting you’re in the centre of a big city.<br />
Highly recommended. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed<br />
from December. Admission 10/5zł.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
OSTRÓW TUMSKI<br />
Wroclaw University<br />
Wrocław University (Uniwersytet Wrocławski)<br />
B-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 26 18,<br />
www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Founded by the Jesuits in<br />
1670, the magnificent Baroque main building of Wrocław<br />
University and the adjacent Church of the Blessed<br />
Name of Jesus that stand today were built at the same<br />
time on the former site of a derelict Piast castle after a<br />
land grant from Emperor Leopold. <strong>In</strong> 1811, Prussia secularised<br />
all church property and took over administration<br />
of the university. Prior to this the Austrian-Prussian war<br />
in 1741 saw the campus transformed into a hospital, a<br />
prison and finally, in 1757, a food store. The dying days<br />
of WWII saw the university library turned into a makeshift<br />
HQ for the occupying Nazis. At the war’s end the German<br />
faculty were all but exiled, with the replacement<br />
professors arriving from the University of Lwów forming<br />
the first Polish faculty to teach here. The University still<br />
functions as an academic building, and past professors<br />
include Alois Alzheimer (the man who gave his name to<br />
the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who didn’t invent the<br />
Bunsen burner but improved it to such a degree that it<br />
was named in his honour). Since the start of the 20th<br />
century, the university has produced a remarkable 9<br />
Nobel Prize winners and today over 40,000 students are<br />
enrolled with 9,000 graduating each year.<br />
Despite its ongoing functions as an academic institution,<br />
the main university building is open to tourists who troop<br />
in and out primarily to take photos of Aula Leopoldina,<br />
the grand Baroque ceremonial hall. Three tickets are<br />
available, giving you access to 2, 3 or 4 university rooms.<br />
We recommend you splash out for all four to avoid any<br />
later confusion and consternation. The room including<br />
the ticket desk includes an exhibit of historical university<br />
items from globes to uniforms, however - similar to later<br />
displays - all information is in Polish only and is unlikely to<br />
hold much interest to casual visitors. Be aware that the<br />
areas accessible to tourists are laid out over four floors<br />
and there is no elevator.<br />
The first of the University Museum’s two main highlights<br />
is undoubtedly Aula Leopoldina. <strong>In</strong> true Baroque style,<br />
the ceremonial hall is a virtual explosion of cherubs and<br />
swag. The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of<br />
God’s wisdom - reflecting the religious and academic mission<br />
of this room and the Jesuits. The portraits ringing the<br />
walls depict the founding fathers of the University. Some<br />
years ago four of them were stolen and two have yet to be<br />
returned. Winding upstairs past the odd exhibition and a<br />
line in the floor demarcating the 51st parallel - which runs<br />
right through the building - visitors will reach the terrace<br />
of the university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords<br />
great photo opportunities and panoramic views of the<br />
Old Town and Odra River. Q Open 10:00 - 15:30. Closed<br />
Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission<br />
5-12zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit.<br />
Adam Dziura, wikipedia.org<br />
September - December 2012<br />
69
70<br />
CENTENNIAL HALL & PARKS<br />
fot. Stanisław Klimek<br />
Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów Tumski,<br />
there’s one more district of this fine city that visitors will be<br />
poorer heading home without having seen. Just east of the<br />
city centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions surrounding<br />
Szczynicki Park and the Centennial Exhibition Complex,<br />
including Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the country’s oldest<br />
zoo, the Japanese Garden and the city’s latest ‘tell-me-thatyou-love-me’<br />
tourist lure, the Pergola Fountain. <strong>In</strong>tended as a<br />
city showpiece since its creation, the area east of the Odra<br />
long held a somewhat lukewarm public standing thanks to<br />
dubious historical connotations and debatable aesthetic<br />
appeal; however recent renovations, the UNESCO nod and<br />
the addition of the magnificent multimedia fountain have<br />
made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its place<br />
as a Wrocław must-see.<br />
Zoo I-4, ul. Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24,<br />
www.zoo.wroclaw.pl. Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki<br />
Bridge (I-4) and you find yourself immediately alongside the<br />
cagey enclosure of the Wrocław Zoological Gardens. A product<br />
of the city’s dynamic development in the late 19th century,<br />
Wrocław’s zoo dates back to 1865 and became the oldest<br />
in the country when Poland inherited it after World War II.<br />
Suffering severe wartime damage, many of the zoo’s elegant<br />
historic buildings were reconstructed and can be found in the<br />
southern part of the park. With over 6000 critters of some<br />
600 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s most visited<br />
attractions and provides foreigners with an opportunity to pick<br />
up a few phrases from one of the only Polish-speaking macaws<br />
in the world (making good money on the side as a voice talent<br />
for Polish dubovers of Disney flicks). Q Open 09:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. From October open 09:00 - 17:00.<br />
From November open 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 1 hour<br />
before closing. Admission 25/15zł. From November (exact<br />
date unknown) 20/10zł.<br />
Iglica (Spire) I-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.<br />
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica<br />
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and you’ll soon find yourself<br />
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including the<br />
ivy-covered columns leading to the towering Iglica monument<br />
and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it (I-4, ul.<br />
Wystawowa 1).<br />
The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire Iglica (The Spire) was<br />
erected on the Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948<br />
as part of the propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’<br />
Meant to symbolise the soaring achievements of the<br />
country’s newly acquired western territories since they were<br />
‘returned’ to Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s<br />
ideas, this one quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres,<br />
Iglica’s peak was adorned with a spinning contraption of<br />
mirrors which would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at<br />
night. The apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only<br />
hours after completion with much of it crashing to the ground<br />
in dazzling catastrophe. The remaining dangling bits posed<br />
quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would attend<br />
the exhibition. To the rescue came two college students who<br />
were part of a climbing club and volunteered to dismantle the<br />
top of the structure for free after the military proved unable<br />
to sort the situation due to the inclement weather. Scaling<br />
the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 minutes, dismantling it another<br />
six, but the boys succeeded in becoming heroes of the<br />
enormous media spectacle. <strong>In</strong> 1964, the spire was reduced<br />
by 10 metres for safety reasons. During Martial Law, another<br />
daredevil climbed the tower and attached a Solidarity flag to<br />
its zenith. Today the ugly ribbed structure continues to stand<br />
outside Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) and is probably one<br />
of the tallest pieces of useless bolted metal in the world.<br />
Centennial Hall & Discovery Centre (Hala Stulecia)<br />
I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 02,<br />
www.halastulecia.pl. With Wrocław developing rapidly in<br />
the late 19th century it was determined that the city required<br />
an exhibition hall and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s<br />
defeat at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a<br />
timely occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall<br />
that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the German<br />
Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as official<br />
city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing his careerpiece,<br />
and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal was chosen over<br />
42 others by city council despite abject objection from almost<br />
everyone who laid eyes on the design, which resembled a<br />
colossal concrete hatbox and would cost an enormous 1.9<br />
million Reichmarks. Teaming with eminent architect Hans<br />
Poelzig, the two personally oversaw the project which was<br />
completed in 1913 and has become one of the most important<br />
architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With<br />
an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and<br />
a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was<br />
called) became the highest structure of its type in the world;<br />
that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure of radial<br />
reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world had ever<br />
seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s most attractive<br />
buildings, one thing is undeniable: the Centennial Hall is<br />
an engineering marvel. Building a structure of such size out<br />
of steel and concrete was both revolutionary and extremely<br />
daring; in fact the workers that helped build the behemoth<br />
were afraid to go inside, so certain were they of its eventual<br />
collapse. On the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably<br />
survived two world wars and has in recent years hosted large<br />
scale events including monumental operas, sporting events<br />
and large concerts. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies<br />
and Pope John Paul II held services during his famous visit in<br />
1997. With the success of the Centennial Exhibition under its<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
belt, the Jahrhunderthalle was to host an even more intriguing<br />
exhibition following World War II. Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’<br />
(the People’s Hall), the exhibition centre became the site of<br />
the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories<br />
Exhibition’. The most expensive and publicised propaganda<br />
event in the history of Poland, in the many decades following<br />
1948’s Recovered Territories Exhibition and the coinciding<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Congress of <strong>In</strong>tellectuals, the Centennial Hall<br />
complex continued to occasionally host large-scale events,<br />
but until recently hadn’t really lived up to its UNESCO-listed<br />
reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the<br />
latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity<br />
wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants they’re<br />
wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.<br />
However, that’s no longer the case. Following a large-scale<br />
renovation, Centennial Hall has been scrubbed clean and a<br />
new interior exhibit not only transforms the structure from a<br />
dubious photo-op to a bona fide tourist attraction, but also<br />
does much to explain and justify its reputation as a modern<br />
architectural masterpiece. Known as the Discovery Centre<br />
(Centrum Poznawcze), this new exhibition gives visitors an<br />
overview of Centennial Hall’s construction, its history and<br />
its place in the pantheon of modern architecture. Most of<br />
the information is conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays<br />
covering topics as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers,<br />
various world exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more<br />
related to architecture and Wrocław specifically. <strong>In</strong> addition<br />
to the permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery<br />
for temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound<br />
show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology, the<br />
dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly complex and<br />
precise light show that emphasises the uniqueness of the<br />
structure and is creatively choreographed to original music.<br />
Between the light show, the computerised displays of the<br />
permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław Fountain - there<br />
is some serious multimedia wizardry in this corner of town<br />
that is sure to delight architect buffs and technophiles alike.<br />
Despite its size (the permanent exhibition only covers two<br />
small rooms), there is much to learn and discover, so allot<br />
at least two hours for your visit. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri,<br />
Sat 10:00 - 21:30. From November open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Please note that the Discovery Centre<br />
is closed to visitors during frequent special events and concerts;<br />
check ahead. Discovery Centre: 12/9zł, permanent<br />
exhibit plus gallery 14/11zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery<br />
and light show 19/15zł.<br />
Wrocław Fountain I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.wroclawskafontanna.pl.<br />
Hang a left from in front of the main<br />
entrance to the Centennial Hall and you’ll find yourself a<br />
witness to one of the most magnificent attractions Wrocław<br />
has to offer. Unveiled on June 4, 2009, in honour of the 20th<br />
anniversary of the first free elections in post-war Poland,<br />
Wrocław showed off one of the most stunning attractions<br />
in the country - a whiz-bang multimedia fountain of which<br />
only a few exist in the world. Wrocław’s new toy projects<br />
water up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 different<br />
nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse<br />
and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on<br />
which animated projections can be displayed; all the while<br />
music orchestrates the show through the park’s speakers.<br />
Equipped with 800 lights of varying size and power, the<br />
Wrocław Fountain even has pyrotechnic capabilities with<br />
fireworks and lasers implausibly shooting out of the large<br />
semicircle basin next to Hala Ludowa. The result is one of<br />
the most dazzling, delightful displays of light, sound and<br />
water you’ll ever see, and has been immensely popular with<br />
crowds of over 20,000 coming out in its early weeks for the<br />
regular evening extravaganzas. Nothing puts a stamp on<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
CENTENNIAL HALL & PARKS<br />
the end of communism like indulging in some outrageously<br />
expensive gadgetry; indeed, the cost of running this show<br />
on a regular basis must be enormous, but you can see<br />
it for free from May until the end of October (daily on the<br />
hour from 10:00 to 22:00). Performances vary from 3.5 to<br />
18 minutes with a short or long programme of classical<br />
music (Wagner, Beethoven) on some hours, and modern<br />
music (Apocalyptica, Faith No More) on the others. The real<br />
stunners however are after dark on Friday and Saturday,<br />
when the full functionality of the fountain is on display,<br />
including lights. If you visit between November and April<br />
you’ll miss the fountain unfortunately but you can still take<br />
advantage of the area as the space is transformed into a<br />
skating rink for the winter. For more programme specifics,<br />
visit the official website.<br />
Japanese Garden (Ogród Japoński) I-4, ul. Mickiewicza<br />
(Park Szczytnicki), tel. (+48) 71 328 66 11.<br />
Just north of the Centennial Hall, the Japanese Garden was<br />
established in 1913 as part of the Artistic Gardening Exhibition<br />
which accompanied the centennial celebrations and was<br />
originally the work of Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi<br />
Arai. Despite its own share of devastation, including the<br />
particularly cruel flood of 1997(see History) which occurred<br />
only two months after a long restoration project (thanks in<br />
part to the generosity of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw),<br />
the arrangement of the garden and its system of small<br />
streams are part of its nearly hundred year old legacy. Two<br />
symbolic water cascades which merge into one large pond<br />
comprise the main attractions of the exquisitely manicured<br />
gardens - one of the most tranquil escapes in the city. Q<br />
Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed from November. Re-opens in<br />
April. Admission 3/1.50zł.<br />
Szczytnicki Park I-3/4. A stroll away from the colonnades<br />
of the pond area puts you in Szczytnicki Park (I-3/4),<br />
the oldest and largest recreation space in the city. Covering<br />
115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the once well-groomed<br />
former estate park suffered devastation during the Napoleonic<br />
Wars and WWII and today largely resembles a natural<br />
landscape within the city borders. While there, keep your<br />
eyes peeled for the small Church of St. John of Nepomuk<br />
- a marvellous 14th century wooden church moved to the<br />
park from the Opole region and miraculously undamaged<br />
during the war.<br />
Getting There<br />
The easiest way to reach Szczytnicki Park and the Centennial<br />
Exhibition Complex is via public transport. From<br />
the city centre hop on trams 1, 2, 4 or 10; alternatively<br />
take buses 145 or 146 east.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
71
72<br />
JEWISH WROCŁAW<br />
Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s<br />
Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was<br />
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though<br />
consistently confronted with persecution - perhaps most<br />
famously during the <strong>In</strong>quisition of the 15th century when<br />
John of Capistrano inspired the public torture and burning of<br />
55 Jews on Plac Solny - Jews have steadily played a role in<br />
the development of the city. By the end of the 19th century,<br />
in fact, the Jewish community was so well integrated into<br />
Breslau society that many Jews had achieved leading positions<br />
in academic and scientific circles; at the time, these<br />
men would not have been considered any less German than<br />
they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was then known) possessed<br />
the second largest synagogue in Germany and its Jewish<br />
community was the third largest in the country with numbers<br />
that had risen to 30,000 by the time Hitler came to power.<br />
It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what befell<br />
Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s once<br />
magnificent main synagogue - torched on Kristallnacht<br />
(November 9, 1938) - says enough, with only a small memorial<br />
remembering where it once stood at ul. Łąkowa 6<br />
(A-4). What less people are aware of is that after the war<br />
when German Breslau became Polish Wrocław, the city’s<br />
Jewish population actually increased dramatically beyond<br />
its pre-war levels as the city accepted some 70,000 Jews<br />
displaced by the war - many from the Soviet Union. Ironically,<br />
Wrocław’s Jewish population reached its peak immediately<br />
after WWII; however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet<br />
Union slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced<br />
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the Soviet<br />
Union that number has been resurgent again and today there<br />
are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of a gradual<br />
transition from tracing the past to plotting the future which<br />
culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic reopening of the<br />
White Stork Synagogue.<br />
Old Jewish Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Żydowski)<br />
E/F-7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, www.<br />
muzeum.miejskie.wroclaw.pl. Established in 1856, this<br />
4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps the most well-preserved<br />
testament to the former strength of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish<br />
community, with over 1200 gravestones. Closed in 1942,<br />
the cemetery quickly fell into deep neglect: in 1945 it was<br />
turned into a fortress by the Nazis and saw fierce fighting<br />
as evidenced by the eerie bullet holes in many of the gravestones.<br />
Preservation began in the 1970s and in 1991 it was<br />
opened as the Museum of Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to<br />
the craftsmanship of its sepulchral art. <strong>In</strong>deed the beauty<br />
and diversity of styles and symbols on display is perhaps<br />
unmatched anywhere. Many noteworthy figures are buried<br />
here, including the renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the<br />
historian Heinrich Graetz (author of the first complete history<br />
of the Jews), Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at<br />
the University of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed<br />
suicide in objection to her husband’s work developing<br />
chemical warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader<br />
of the first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and<br />
the parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their<br />
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite<br />
these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains a<br />
completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of decaying<br />
vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of which are<br />
stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray cats and<br />
shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly informative<br />
accompanying booklet makes it even more so, despite being<br />
overpriced at 15zł. Q Open 08:00-18:00. From November<br />
open from 08:00 till dusk. Admission is 7/5zł and comes with<br />
a highly informative booklet which you may choose to either<br />
return upon exiting or purchase for 15zł.<br />
New Jewish Cemetery ul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna).<br />
Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery was<br />
founded in 1902 when the Ślężna Street cemetery became too<br />
small and is still in use by Wrocław’s Jewish community today.<br />
That hasn’t saved it from the ravages of time however, and<br />
like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands in sharp contrast to<br />
the well-kept Catholic cemeteries across Poland. Comprising<br />
11 hectares and approximately 8,000 graves, this is the fifth<br />
largest Jewish cemetery in Poland, and as such carries an<br />
even more powerful aura of secret beauty among its maze of<br />
ivy-coved headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered<br />
as an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic and<br />
architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here is dedicated<br />
to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army who fought and died in<br />
WWI; their 432 names are etched into the top of the monument.<br />
The cemetery is currently the subject of renovation work and is<br />
only open to the pubic for a limited period (Wed 14:00-17:00,<br />
Sun 09:00-13:00) with parts of the cemetery cordoned off<br />
altogether. We advise that you contact the Jewish <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Centre for updated information. Q Admission free.<br />
The White Stork Synagogue (Synagoga pod Białym<br />
Bocianem) E-4, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48) 71 787 39<br />
02. The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of<br />
Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its name<br />
from the inn that once stood in its place. Following the design of<br />
prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand Langhans, it is ironically<br />
considered a sterling example of 18th century Protestant<br />
sacral art. Discreetly hidden from view in a courtyard between<br />
ul. Antoniego and ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds<br />
are full of beer gardens, bohemians and graffiti; however it was<br />
here that members of the Jewish community were rounded<br />
up for deployment to the death camps during WWII. Badly<br />
damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only to its proximity to<br />
residential buildings), the synagogue was literally left to rot after<br />
the war, before the Jewish community was finally able to recover<br />
it from the Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration.<br />
Re-opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a worship<br />
space and cultural centre, with a new multi-functional hall<br />
in the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on<br />
the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about the<br />
History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while the second<br />
balcony is for temporary exhibitions. The synagogue is free to<br />
visit for individuals, or join the daily 12:00 guided tours in Polish<br />
or English for 10/5zł. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. From<br />
December open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.<br />
Useful Contacts<br />
Jewish <strong>In</strong>formation Centre E-4, ul. Włodkowica<br />
9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39 02. Only doors away from the<br />
White Stork Synagogue, these folks arrange Jewish walking<br />
tours of Wrocław. They also have a wealth of books,<br />
music and events information on hand. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,<br />
Muncipality of Wrocław<br />
One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic attractions<br />
is not a cathedral, not a castle or monument, but a legion<br />
of little people: Gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local parlance), to be<br />
precise. <strong>In</strong> Wrocław’s city centre these merry munchkins are<br />
simply ubiquitous, dotting doorways, alleyways and street corners,<br />
constantly underfoot but seldom seen by the unobservant.<br />
You may well overlook the first dozen or so that cross your path,<br />
but inevitably - and often literally - you will stumble upon these<br />
popular local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound<br />
to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities about<br />
town - from guarding public space to passed-out drunk. Beloved<br />
by locals and tourists alike, and the object of more photos than<br />
the towering Cathedral, these prolific pranksters have become<br />
the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s most picturesque cities.<br />
Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist gimmick,<br />
gnomes have long held a place in Polish folklore, and<br />
their current iconic incarnation as symbols of Wrocław<br />
actually has a direct correlation to the political climate of the<br />
1980s. Under communism gnomes became the absurdist<br />
calling card of the ‘Orange Alternative’ movement - an underground<br />
protest movement that used absurdity and nonsense<br />
to stage peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint<br />
cans and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and art<br />
history student at Wrocław University, the group specifically<br />
ridiculed the establishment’s attempts to censor public<br />
space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti or<br />
public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon seeing<br />
fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange Alternative<br />
quickly painted over them yet again...with gnomes. As the<br />
movement gained popularity, gnomes became inexorably<br />
linked with the Orange Alternative and Wrocław, though they<br />
soon began appearing in other major Polish cities as well.<br />
For all the trouble it gave the authorities however, the Orange<br />
Alternative was never as interested in political ideology as<br />
buffoonery. Detained in a Łódz police station for graffiti, Major<br />
Fydrych was happy to explain the gnomes to state authorities in<br />
academic terms: “The thesis is the anti-regime slogan. The antithesis<br />
is the spot and the synthesis is the gnome.” Spoken like<br />
a true art history student. As the Orange Alternative graduated<br />
to bigger happenings, gnomes began to appear in demonstrations<br />
as well. <strong>In</strong>ternational Children’s Day on June 1, 1988, was<br />
celebrated in Wrocław by dozens of locals dressed as gnomes<br />
and smurfs, complete with red hats and handkerchiefs, while<br />
an anti-Chernobyl protest saw Major Fydrych handing out iconic<br />
peaked red gnome hats to passing pedestrians. After the fall<br />
of communism in Poland, the gnomes remained a symbol of<br />
Wrocław, repurposed by the new regime to be a tribute to the<br />
Orange Movement and playful city ambassadors.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
GNOMES<br />
The first gnome in its modern statuette form was Papa Krasnal<br />
who was placed in 2001 on the corner of ul. Świdnicka and<br />
ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), near the subway where Orange<br />
Alternative demonstrations often took place. Commissioned<br />
by Agora (the publisher of newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza) to<br />
celebrate the history of the Orange Alternative, Papa Krasnal<br />
remains perhaps the largest of his progeny. Things really took<br />
off in 2005 when local artist Tomasz Moczek - a graduate of<br />
the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - created five gnomes.<br />
Commissioned by Wrocław City Council, that original quintet<br />
consisted of: Rzeźnik on ul. Jatki (A-3), Syzyfki, the two<br />
Sisyphus-inspired gnomes on ul. Świdnicka near the Post<br />
Office (B-3), Pracz Odrzański (referring to one of Wrocław’s<br />
suburbs - Pracze Odrzańskie - with a bit of wordplay around<br />
“pracz,” the Polish word for “washer”) who can be seen washing<br />
something in the Odra River near Piaskowy Bridge (C-2), and<br />
Szermierz, who sadly disappeared from the subway station<br />
under Plac Uniwersytecka (B-2). The little devils soon proved<br />
so popular that envious local businesses got in on the game<br />
contracting other artists to produce more. Some of the most<br />
popular include Życzliwek (Well-Wisher Dwarf), located on the<br />
Rynek next to the fountain (A-3), who even has his own official<br />
holiday (November 21st), blog and Facebook page; Śpioch on<br />
the back of the Jaś tenement house on ul. Św. Mikołaja (A-3);<br />
and Więziennik on the parapet of the old prison building on<br />
ul. Więzienna (B-2). Costing about 4,000zł apiece, each work<br />
has become embedded in the hearts of the locals and now has<br />
a GPS device embedded in its heart - a necessary precaution<br />
after Rzeźnik also disappeared (he has since been recovered<br />
and is back at his post on ul. Jatki).<br />
<strong>In</strong> almost no time at all gnomes have proliferated around<br />
Wrocław to the point that now we’re not even certain exactly<br />
how many there are, though the little buggers are rumoured<br />
to be running rampant to the score of nearly 180. Due to<br />
their number and range, it really isn’t possible anymore to<br />
find them all on your own (although trying to do so can be<br />
a fun alternative to regular sight-seeing). To make the work<br />
easier, head to the local tourist office at Rynek 14 (A-3),<br />
where you can pick up a map showing where the 30 most<br />
central gnomes are located. There is also a special, duallanguage<br />
(Polish and English) website dedicated to Wrocław’s<br />
gnomes - www.krasnale.pl - where you can find their history,<br />
photos and useful information including downloadable<br />
maps of their various locations around the city. Spend an<br />
afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see how many of the<br />
mischievous miscreants you can spot as you stroll around<br />
the city, and happy hunting.<br />
Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,<br />
Muncipality of Wrocław<br />
September - December 2012<br />
73
74<br />
FESTUNG BRESLAU<br />
One of the biggest events to ever rock Wrocław, the epic<br />
80-day siege of 1945 cost tens of thousands of lives and<br />
left the town a smouldering heap of ruins. One of the most<br />
savage sieges in modern history, the ‘Battle for Breslau’ rates<br />
as one of the biggest human tragedies of WWII.<br />
Prelude<br />
Prior to WWII Wrocław, or ‘Breslau’ as it was then known, was<br />
something of a model Nazi city, with a staggering 200,000 of<br />
its citizens voting for Hitler’s NSDAP party in the 1933 elections.<br />
From that moment on the Nazis cemented their grip on the city<br />
launching a campaign of terror, and eventually murder, against<br />
Jews and numerous other enemies of the state. Synagogues<br />
were burnt to the ground on Kristallnacht - November 9, 1938<br />
- and the guillotine at Kleczkowska prison saw plenty of action,<br />
with the decapitated bodies of political prisoners donated to<br />
Wrocław’s medical schools. Yet in spite of this sinister background<br />
and strict rationing the citizens of wartime Wrocław<br />
fared better than their compatriots elsewhere in the Reich. Out<br />
of range from Allied air raids local denizens were spared the<br />
aerial nightmare of British carpet bombings, and the city came<br />
to be considered something of a safe haven, its population<br />
swelling to over a million people towards the end of the conflict.<br />
However, by the second half of 1944 the doomsday reality<br />
of war started to dawn on the local population. Truckloads<br />
of mangled German wounded flooded the hospitals, and with<br />
the Red Army creeping closer the rumble of artillery could be<br />
heard in the distance. On August 24 the city was declared a<br />
closed stronghold, ‘Festung Breslau’, and the citizens braced<br />
themselves for the inevitable bloodbath that was to come.<br />
General Johann Krause was appointed commander, and set<br />
about the daunting task of turning a picture-book city into<br />
a fortress. Two defensive rings were constructed around<br />
the city (with some fortifications 20km outside the centre),<br />
supplies were stockpiled and troops mobilised. A garrison of<br />
some 80,000 men was hurriedly raised in what was projected<br />
to become the key defensive element on ‘The Eastern Wall’. <strong>In</strong><br />
reality, however, the troops were a chaotic rabble consisting<br />
of Hitler Youth, WWI veterans, police officers and retreating<br />
regiments. This mixed bag of men and boys were ludicrously<br />
ill-equipped to face the full force of the looming Soviet fury.<br />
As countdown to the impending siege began the governor<br />
of the region, Gauleiter Karl Hanke, noted he only had two<br />
tanks at his disposal, and weaponry that was either outdated<br />
or captured from previous campaigns in Poland, Russia and<br />
Yugoslavia. Even so, Hanke stubbornly refused to order an<br />
evacuation of civilians until January 19, 1945. By this time<br />
the majority of transport links had been smashed by Soviet<br />
shelling, forcing many evacuees to leave the city on foot.<br />
With temperatures sinking to -15˚C, an estimated 100,000<br />
The Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Góra A. Webber<br />
A bunker near Partisan Hill used temporarily as Nazi<br />
headquarters during the Siege A. Webber<br />
people froze to death during this ill-fated evacuation, with<br />
other reports of children trampled to death in the chaos<br />
that ensued at the train station. Wrocław was in a state of<br />
full-blown panic. Defeatism was punished by death and on<br />
January 28 the deputy mayor, Dr. Wolfgang Spielhagen, was<br />
executed in the main square for this very reason. Execution<br />
squads roamed the city, murdering pessimists, looters and<br />
anyone found shirking their duty to the Fatherland. Finally,<br />
following a rapid advance, the advancing Soviets encircled<br />
the city on February 15, 1945. Wrocław’s fate was sealed.<br />
Siege<br />
On February 16, 1945 months of waiting finally came to an<br />
end. The Red Army launched a ferocious attack on the city,<br />
throwing hundreds of tanks into the fray. But hopes for a quick<br />
victory proved optimistic, and the battle soon turned into a<br />
brutal slaughter, with both sides sustaining heavy casualties.<br />
<strong>In</strong> the first three days alone the Soviets lost well over 70 tanks<br />
as the conflict descended into savage street fighting. <strong>In</strong> his<br />
excellent book, Microcosm, author Norman Davies suggests<br />
that as a last resort measure chemical weapons produced in<br />
Silesia were used to repel Soviet troops in the early stages of<br />
combat, though this theory is largely open to debate. Civilians<br />
and slave labour were called up to build fortifications, and vast<br />
stretches of the city were demolished so bricks could be used<br />
to strengthen defences. <strong>In</strong> a growing sign of desperation even<br />
the University Library found itself stripped of thousands of<br />
books, all destined for the barricades. <strong>In</strong> March the residential<br />
area between the Szczytnicki and Grunwaldzki bridges was<br />
levelled in order to build an improvised airstrip that would, in<br />
theory, be Breslau’s connection to the outside world. The enormous<br />
project was a disaster. With rations only issued to those<br />
working, civilians were forced to work under fierce fire and as<br />
a result over 13,000 died when the Soviets shelled the area.<br />
But worse was to come. April 1 saw the Soviets launch a new<br />
offensive to seize the city. A heavy bombardment saw much of<br />
the city engulfed in flames, and hostilities were resumed once<br />
more. With the noose tightening, Nazi HQ relocated from the<br />
bunker on Partisan Hill to the University Library, while fighting<br />
continued to rage in the sewers and houses on the fringes of<br />
the city. Even with the end in sight, the Nazis fought bitterly to<br />
the last man, crushing an ill-fated uprising by the remaining<br />
civilians. A full five days after the Battle for Berlin had ended,<br />
Breslau finally capitulated on May 6, the peace deal signed at<br />
the villa on ul. Rapackiego 14. The day before Karl Hanke, the<br />
very man who had ordered the execution of anyone caught<br />
fleeing the city, escaped the city in a plane apparently bound for<br />
the Czech Republic. What became of him remains a mystery.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Aftermath<br />
For the survivors the end of the war unleashed a new enemy.<br />
It’s estimated that approximately two million German women<br />
were raped by Red Army soldiers, and Breslau proved no<br />
exception as marauding packs of drunken troops sought to<br />
celebrate the victory. With all hospitals destroyed, and the<br />
city waterworks a pile of ruins, epidemics raged unchecked<br />
as the city descended further into a hellish chaos. Historical<br />
figures suggest that in total the Battle for Breslau cost the<br />
lives of 170,000 civilians: 6,000 German troops, and 7,000<br />
Russian. 70% of the city lay in total ruin (about 75% of that<br />
directly attributed to Nazi efforts to fortify the city), 10km of<br />
sewers had been dynamited and nearly 70% of electricity cut<br />
off. Of the 30,000 registered buildings in Wrocław, 21,600<br />
sustained damage, with an estimated 18 million cubic metres<br />
of smashed rubble covering the city – the removal of this<br />
war debris was to last until the 1960s. Although several<br />
bunkers still lie scattered around the city (Park Zachodni,<br />
Park Południowy, etc.) there is no official memorial for the<br />
thousands of innocent victims of war. Two Soviet cemeteries<br />
stand in the suburbs: one for officers on ul. Karkonoska,<br />
and one for the rank and file on Skowronia Góra. Both find<br />
themselves in state of disrepair, littered with broken glass<br />
and graffiti. A German military cemetery and Garden of Peace<br />
can be found 15 kilometres from Wrocław, the final resting<br />
place of approximately 18,000 soldiers.<br />
Declared a part of Poland under the terms of the Yalta<br />
Agreement the new rulers of Wrocław arrived three days<br />
after the peace deal. A new chapter in Wrocław’s history<br />
was about to be written. Poles from the east flocked to<br />
repopulate Wrocław, swayed by rumours of jobs, wealth<br />
and undamaged townhouses. Over ten per cent of these<br />
new settlers hailed from the eastern city of Lwow (now<br />
Ukrainian L’viv) and this mass migration was to irrevocably<br />
change Wrocław’s demographic makeup. Others hailed<br />
from impoverished villages, with their peasant mentality<br />
frequently blamed for harming surviving city structures:<br />
‘heaps of coal in a bathtub, hens in an expensive piano<br />
and a pig kept on the fourth floor of an apartment were<br />
not rare exceptions’, so writes Beata Maciejewska in her<br />
excellent book ‘Wrocław: History of the City’. But farm<br />
Further Reading<br />
Microcosm: Portrait of a Central European City<br />
By Norman Davies & Roger Moorehouse<br />
An excellent, encyclopaedic and engrossing book by<br />
Davies, the guru of Polish history writing. With Wrocław<br />
as the central character, Davies demonstrates how the<br />
city both affects and is effected by the whirlwind events<br />
of European history, resulting in it changing ownership,<br />
name and size more times than any other city on the<br />
continent. <strong>In</strong> Davies’ view, no city is better suited to<br />
represent the Central European experience as its<br />
unique geographical position has conspired to make it<br />
a ‘microcosm’ and melting pot of the myriad European<br />
concerns and conditions throughout the centuries. It’s<br />
a convincingly made argument, as over an exhaustive<br />
600-some pages Davies details the history of Central<br />
Europe without ever taking the action out of Wrocław.<br />
Starting with a horrific description of the annihilation of<br />
Fortress Breslau in the prologue, and including plenty of<br />
gory details of medieval urban life, if you want to read one<br />
book about Wrocław other than the one in your hands,<br />
make it this one.<br />
[ISBN 0-224-06243-3, price approx. 100zł.]<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
FESTUNG BRESLAU<br />
Memorial in the Soviet Cemetery on Skowronia Góra<br />
A. Webber<br />
animals eating sofas were the least of the city’s worries.<br />
Wrocław was on the brink of anarchy, with armed gangs of<br />
Russians, Germans and Poles roaming the streets at night,<br />
looting, shooting and boozing. Fortunes were made from<br />
theft, with most goods ending up in the open air bazaar<br />
that had sprung up on Pl. Grunwaldzki; Maciejewska’s<br />
research reveals this was the source of everything from<br />
railway wagons loaded with bricks, to priceless paintings<br />
dating from the 17th century. Black market trading thrived,<br />
and the money that was flying round led to a slew of bars<br />
and ballrooms opening, many with colourful names: Kiosk<br />
Pod Bombą (Kiosk Under the Bomb) and Wstąp Kolego na<br />
Jednego (Drop <strong>In</strong> For a Drink, Mate) being a couple of note.<br />
The end of the war also signalled an active campaign to<br />
de-Germanize the city. Newspapers launched competitions<br />
to eliminate all traces of Wrocław’s German heritage<br />
with monuments and street signs all falling victim to this<br />
iconoclastic fury. By the end of 1945 as many as 300,000<br />
Germans were still in the city, many of whom had been<br />
temporarily relocated from Poznań, and this was a pressing<br />
concern for the Polish authorities. Forced transports<br />
began in July, and by January 1948 Wrocław was officially<br />
declared to be free of German habitants (there were, in fact,<br />
still 3,000 in the city, essentially kept on to do jobs Poles<br />
were unqualified for).<br />
Wrocław was chosen to host the Exhibition of Recovered Territories,<br />
a propaganda stunt aimed at highlighting the glories<br />
of Polish socialism. Attracting over 1.5 million visitors the<br />
exhibition finally closed in 1948, and with that investment and<br />
national interest in Wrocław died. For the next few years the<br />
city was to become a feeder city for Warsaw, with priceless<br />
works of art ferried to the capital. <strong>In</strong> 1949 approximately<br />
200,000 bricks were sent daily up to Warsaw, with several<br />
undamaged buildings falling victim to the demolition teams<br />
hell-bent on rebuilding the Polish capital. Wrocław’s recovery<br />
was still a long way away.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
75
76 FEATURE SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE<br />
Świdnica Peace Church<br />
Świdnica Peace Church (Kościół Pokoju w<br />
Świdnicy) Pl. Pokoju 6, Świdnica, tel. (+48) 74 852<br />
28 14, www.kosciolpokoju.pl. The last of the three<br />
peace churches to be built is the closest to Wrocław,<br />
about 50 kilometres southwest in Świdnica. The problem<br />
is getting there without a car, as there are no direct trains<br />
from Wrocław. If all goes according to plan, the trip can<br />
be done in just over an hour. Be careful though, for not<br />
only are there few trains, if that train is late, you could<br />
be standing on the platform at Jaworzyna Śląska station<br />
(not one of Poland’s finest) for much of the morning or<br />
afternoon. Check the English option at the Polish railways<br />
site (rozklad-pkp.pl) for train times.<br />
Construction at Świdnica took forever, as funds were<br />
short and work on the church continually came to a halt<br />
due to a lack of timber. Only a donation from Hans Heinrich<br />
of Książ (see Książ Castle) - who donated 2000 tree<br />
trunks from the forest surrounding his castle - allowed<br />
work to be completed, in 1657, almost five years after<br />
the emperor had given permission for building work to<br />
begin. Different in layout to the churches at Jawor and<br />
Głogow it was built in the form of a Greek cross, and<br />
when completed it was the largest wooden church in<br />
Europe, and could accommodate 7500 worshippers.<br />
The interior - even for those who have visited Jawor - is<br />
some sight. Like Jawor, there are brightly decorated<br />
galleries to accommodate the masses, and a number<br />
of private boxes for the wealthy. The most impressive is<br />
the domed box of the Hochberg family (who had made<br />
construction of the church possible), topped with the<br />
Hochberg coat of arms. The church’s astonishing altar,<br />
added in 1752 to mark the centenary of the emperor<br />
granting permission for the church’s construction, is one<br />
of the finest in Poland and perhaps the most impressive<br />
of all protestant altars anywhere in Europe. It is the work<br />
of August Gottfried Hoffmann, a Dresden sculptor who<br />
had settled in Świdnica, and its central scene depicts<br />
the baptism of Christ in the River Jordan with the Holy<br />
Spirit watching from above. Statues of Moses and<br />
Aaron flank the scene. The church’s working Baroque<br />
organ, installed in 1666, is original. There are a couple<br />
of buildings in the church’s grounds that should not be<br />
overlooked: the Belfry and the Lutherheim (Luther’s<br />
House, originally a school), both built in 1708. If the<br />
weather’s good, it’s also worth exploring the grounds<br />
to take a look at the tombstones, many of which are<br />
intricately engraved.<br />
Świdnica, though best known as home to one of the<br />
Churches of Peace, is itself well worth a day trip<br />
from Wrocław. A fine medieval town that survived the<br />
ravages of the 20th century more or less intact, it<br />
is in the classic Polish mould, centred on a colourful<br />
Rynek. Once in Świdnica it all comes together. The<br />
town’s main station, Świdnica Miasto, is just a few<br />
meters from the central Rynek, which is dominated<br />
by the 16th century Town Hall that sits in the middle.<br />
There is a reasonably helpful Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation<br />
Office on the far side.<br />
Besides the Church of Peace (which is a ten minute<br />
walk north of the Rynek) the town’s stand-out sight is<br />
the 14th century Sts. Stanisław & Wacław Cathedral, at<br />
103 metres the tallest church in Silesia. Find it on Plac<br />
Jana Pawla II, one block east of the Rynek. Q Open<br />
009:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sun 15:00 - 18:00. From<br />
November open by prior arrangement only; call at least<br />
one work day in advance. Admission 8/5zł.<br />
Peace Church in Świdnica, Bożena Pytel<br />
Given their role in helping define one of the most important<br />
peace treaties in European history, it is astonishing that so<br />
few people outside Poland and Germany have ever heard of<br />
the Churches of Peace. <strong>In</strong>deed, the number of Germans and<br />
Poles aware of the existence and importance of these unique<br />
buildings appears to be fewer and fewer. Even many locals<br />
of Wrocław - the nearest big city to the churches - appear<br />
to be unaware of their status as UNESCO World Heritage<br />
sites (a status gained in 2001).<br />
Though three Churches of Peace were actually built in Silesia<br />
(at Świdnica, Jawor and Głogów), the church at Głogow<br />
burned down in 1758. (It’s worth noting that foul play has never<br />
been entertained as a reason for the destruction of the Głogow<br />
church: it appears to have been a mundane yet tragic fire).<br />
Alas, as with many of Silesia’s hidden treasures, the<br />
Churches of Peace are inordinately difficult to get to without<br />
a car, though both are less than 70km from central Wrocław.<br />
If the mood and the will grabs you however, they come well<br />
recommended. With a car both can be done in a day; if using<br />
Polish railways you will probably need to make two separate<br />
trips from Wrocław. Even the closest church to Wrocław, at<br />
Świdnica, requires a change of train.<br />
But we are getting ahead of ourselves: first, a point of order...<br />
The term Churches of Peace (in Polish Kościoły Pokoju)<br />
does not in this case refer to the pacifist Christian churches<br />
(Jehovah’s Witnesses, Seventh Day Adventists etc.) often<br />
referred to as the Churches of Peace or Peace Churches. <strong>In</strong><br />
fact, the Churches of Peace in Silesia would be better named<br />
Churches of the Peace, the peace in question being the Peace<br />
of Westphalia, the collective name given to two treaties that<br />
put an end to the most destructive and damaging war in early<br />
modern European History, the Thirty Years War.<br />
As such, any guide to the churches needs to be prefaced<br />
with a rundown on the events that led up to the Thirty Years<br />
War, its causes, its course, and its aftermath. We promise<br />
to be as brief as possible.<br />
Like so many wars involving the nations of central Europe,<br />
the key players in the outbreak of the Thirty Years War were<br />
an Emperor who died without an heir (creating a disputed<br />
succession); religion; the authority of the state versus the<br />
authority of the church.<br />
<strong>In</strong> 1617, by which time it was clear that Matthias (1557-1619),<br />
Holy Roman Emperor, would die having failed to father a child,<br />
the two (Austrian and Spanish) branches of the Hapsburg<br />
family, which had for centuries supplied the Emperor, named<br />
Matthias’s cousin and closest male relative, Ferdinand II<br />
(1578-1637), as his successor. The Spanish king, Phillip III,<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE<br />
was keen for Ferdinand (a devout Catholic, raised by Jesuits<br />
and vehemently opposed to the Reformation) to reverse<br />
the policy of religious tolerance and reconciliation that the<br />
Catholic yet relatively liberal Matthias had pursued. During<br />
Matthias’s reign as emperor the Reformation had flourished<br />
in many parts of central Europe, especially in Bohemia and<br />
Silesia, a result of his policy of allowing individual dukedoms<br />
and principalities to pursue religion on their own terms.<br />
Though Matthias was not to die until 1619, Ferdinand became<br />
de facto emperor at the end of 1617. One of his first<br />
edicts was to suspend all protestant church building on land<br />
the Catholic church claimed as its own (which in reality meant<br />
almost all land in the Holy Roman Empire). <strong>In</strong> retaliation, on<br />
May 23, 1618, a group of protestant Bohemian noblemen<br />
threw Ferdinand’s representatives in Bohemia out of a<br />
second floor window of Prague Castle. They landed in horse<br />
manure, deliberately placed below the window to soften the<br />
blow and harden the humiliation. Known as the Defenestration<br />
of Prague, the event to all intents and purposes started<br />
the Thirty Years War, with Bohemia - and Silesia with it - declaring<br />
open revolt on the Empire.<br />
For the next three decades war raged across much of<br />
Europe, embroiling - at one stage or another - every great<br />
European power: France, Denmark, Sweden, England, Spain,<br />
the Netherlands, Austria, Bohemia and the Ottomans. All allied<br />
themselves with either the protestant armies opposed to<br />
the emperor, or with the Empire itself. Yet this was no simple<br />
religious war. Catholic France, for example, which was attacked<br />
from within by French Hugenots (protestants) in the 1620s,<br />
was opposed to the Holy Roman Empire and to Spain, its rival<br />
for hegemony in southern Europe. Yet it was French intervention<br />
- as well as that of protestant Sweden - that created the<br />
conditions for the end of the war in the mid-1640s. <strong>In</strong>deed,<br />
there had been talk of peace since 1637, when Ferdinand III<br />
succeeded his father as Emperor. Having been a military leader<br />
himself, Ferdinand III was appalled at the great human cost of<br />
the war and on taking the throne had immediately sought to<br />
make peace with France and Sweden. The war was to carry<br />
on for another 11 years, however, by which stage Sweden was<br />
the dominant protestant power in Europe and the destruction<br />
of many parts of central and northern Europe total. Even the<br />
peace negotiations lasted an inordinately long time (almost<br />
a year), as the French and Swedish delegates on one side,<br />
and the Hapsburgs on the other, refused to meet face to<br />
face. The French and Swedes were based at Osnabruck, the<br />
Hapsburgs at Munster - 80 kilometres away; a team of couriers<br />
ferried messages between the two. The war only ended<br />
with the Peace of Westphalia, formalised on October 24,<br />
1648, when two separate yet complementary treaties - the<br />
Treaty of Osnabruck and the Treaty of Munster - were signed.<br />
The terms of the peace are far too complex for our purposes.<br />
<strong>In</strong> one city guide-friendly sentence, we can say that there was<br />
a trade off: what the Hapsburgs lost in territory they gained in<br />
religious influence, and vice-versa. The states that emerged<br />
from the war were handed central control of religious matters:<br />
the brief age of religious autonomy for local princes, dukes<br />
and bishops was at an end. For protestant Silesia - which<br />
after the withdrawal of Swedish forces was once again an<br />
integral part of the Austrian Hapsburg (and Catholic) Empire<br />
- the consequences were manifold.<br />
Primarily because Silesia had been under Swedish<br />
occupation for much of the war, its towns had been<br />
spared great physical damage. The population had not<br />
been so lucky. Some estimates claim that as many as<br />
two-thirds of Silesia’s population was lost to disease<br />
(mainly plague) and starvation during the Thirty Years War.<br />
Jawor Peace Church<br />
Jawor Peace Church (Kościół Pokoju w<br />
Jaworze) Park Pokoju 1, Jawor. Visiting Jawor, 80<br />
kilometres west of Wrocław, is easier said than done. As<br />
with Świdnica it requires a change of train at less than<br />
lovely Jaworzyna Śląska. The church is no more than<br />
five minutes walk from Jawor station, set in a small park<br />
(which until 1972 was the church’s graveyard).<br />
The church, the second to be built, was consecrated on<br />
October 31, 1654. Though the exterior is almost identical<br />
to the doomed church at Głogow; von Sabisch had<br />
learnt from the earlier church’s collapse, and designed<br />
the interior of the Jawor church to be far more stable.<br />
He included raised galleries to create more space for<br />
worshippers: there were originally two (today the second<br />
and fourth). The intermediate galleries (today the first<br />
and third) were added in the 1680s. It is these galleries<br />
- exquisitely decorated with more than 140 scenes from<br />
both the New and Old Testaments - that make Jawor such<br />
an incredible sight. Amazingly, nobody knows for certain<br />
who painted them. They have been credited by some<br />
sources to Georg Flegel, though as Flegel apparently died<br />
in Frankfurt in 1638, that is highly unlikely. More probable<br />
is that one of Flegel’s students - trading on his patron’s<br />
name - executed the paintings. Whoever did them, they<br />
are worth hours of study, telling as they do more or less<br />
the entire bible story from Genesis to Revelations. Look<br />
too for the baptismal font, a gift from wealthy landowner<br />
Georg von Schweintz in 1656, and for the two-storey main<br />
altarpiece, added in 1672 having been cast in Kamienna<br />
Gora. The two splendid statues on either side of the altar<br />
are of Moses and St. John the Baptist.<br />
If you’ve come all this way, it’s also worth taking the time<br />
to see the town’s handsome Rynek too, the centerpiece<br />
of which is the Town Hall, originally built in the mid 14th<br />
century but rebuilt in 1617 and 1846. Its sublime clock<br />
tower - to which the statues of various local heroes seem<br />
to magically cling - survives intact in its original form since<br />
being added in 1397. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00<br />
- 17:00. From November open by prior arrangement only,<br />
for groups of at least 5 people (smaller groups must pay<br />
admission for at least 5 people); call at least one day in<br />
advance. Admission 8/4zł.<br />
Peace Church in Jawor, Björn Ehrlich, pl.wikipedia.org<br />
September - December 2012<br />
77
78<br />
SILESIAN CHURCHES OF PEACE<br />
Książ Castle<br />
Książ Castle (Zamek<br />
Książ) ul. Piastów<br />
Śląskich 1, Wałbrzych,<br />
tel. (+48) 74 664 38 34,<br />
www.ksiaz.walbrzych.<br />
pl. Legend has it that the<br />
original castle at Książ was<br />
built at the end of the 13th<br />
century by Bolko I, Duke of Świdnica and Jawor, but it is<br />
best known as the fiefdom of the Hochberg family, who<br />
purchased it in 1508 and owned it until 1941.<br />
The castle we see today took shape during the 16th<br />
century, when the central tower, walls and ramparts were<br />
added to the original building of the ducal seat, which was<br />
itself greatly extended. Though the Thirty Years War saw<br />
the castle suffer invasion and conquest (first by Saxons,<br />
then Swedes), it survived intact under the masterful<br />
stewardship of young Hans Heinrich Hochberg (the same<br />
Hochberg who donated trees from the Książ forests to<br />
build the Świdnica Peace Church) who at war’s end would<br />
redefine the castle, making it more of a stately home than<br />
a fortress: much of the defensive wall was taken down,<br />
and landscaped gardens replaced ramparts.<br />
The transformation from Gothic to Baroque was carried<br />
out by Conrad Maximilian Hochberg during the early<br />
part of the 18th century, when the Baroque east wing<br />
(including the Maximilian Hall, the finest part of the<br />
castle) was added, the Summer Pavilion erected, the<br />
main tower remodelled and the gardens extended. The<br />
Neoclassical western and northern wings were added<br />
in the 1910s, much to the whims of Maria Teresa Olivia<br />
Cornwalis-West, or Daisy, as she was known. An English<br />
aristocrat (whose brother would later be stepfather<br />
to Winston Churchill), Daisy married Hans Heinrich XV<br />
Hochberg in 1891.<br />
Debt was to be their - and the castle’s - undoing. Owing<br />
a fortune in tax the German state seized much of the<br />
Hochberg estate in 1937. The castle itself was taken in<br />
1941, partly to pay taxes, partly as punishment for the<br />
perceived treason of Hans Heinrich and Daisy’s eldest<br />
children: one served in the British army, the other the<br />
Polish. After the war the castle was neglected and lay<br />
partly in ruin for many years until a limited renovation in<br />
1956; full rebuilding work did not commence until 1972.<br />
The latest period of restoration was completed only in<br />
2005. Much of the castle is open to visitors, including<br />
the Maximilian Hall, the Games Salon and the exquisite<br />
China Salon, with its delightful murals. [The main tower,<br />
with its amazing views of the grounds and gardens, is<br />
only open to those who sign on for a guided tour.] Best of<br />
all, however, is simply exploring the multi-level gardens<br />
and terraces, amongst the finest in Poland. If time allows,<br />
you should also visit the stables of the castle’s famed<br />
stud, which puts on dressage shows and rents horses<br />
for riding, as well as offering riding lessons. The castle<br />
is 70km from Wrocław, just past Świdnica. You need to<br />
take a local train from Świdnica to Wałbrzych, and bus<br />
No. 8 (towards Książ) from there. The bus stops at the<br />
castle gates in the morning and evenings, and about 250<br />
metres away during the day. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. From<br />
October open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission<br />
to castle, terraces and stables 23/16zł; castle<br />
and terraces only 18/13zł; terraces only 10/7zł. Guided<br />
tours 30/25zł per person (with an opportunity to visit<br />
the Tower for an extra 10/7zł).<br />
Wrocław lost half of its population. So great was the human<br />
cost that population growth in the region was stunted for<br />
two centuries afterwards: it only really began to recover in<br />
the latter part of the 19th century.<br />
Though the Hapsburgs allowed Wrocław to retain its religious<br />
privileges and to remain a protestant town, throughout the<br />
rest of Silesia they quickly began to evict protestant priests,<br />
confiscating their churches. However, Swedish diplomats had<br />
inserted a clause into the Peace of Westphalia that granted<br />
three Silesian towns - Świdnica, Jawor and Głogow - the right<br />
to retain a protestant church, provided it was built beyond the<br />
city’s walls, and that the Emperor personally grant permission.<br />
Obtaining this permission took years, cost a fortune in tributes,<br />
and required skilful diplomacy. Finally, in 1651, three plots - one<br />
in each of the three cities - were designated as suitable for<br />
the building of the churches, and Emperor Ferdinand III gave<br />
his seal of approval for the construction of the first, at Głogow.<br />
The first thing that strikes the visitor to either of the surviving<br />
churches is that they do not look all that much like churches.<br />
This - if you’ve been keeping up at the back of the class - was<br />
very much the point. The rules for their construction - as written<br />
into the Peace of Westphalia - were strict, and broken only<br />
on pain of death. Not only did they have to be built beyond the<br />
city walls, they had to be built of wood. They were not allowed<br />
to have bell towers or spires and they were to be paid for by<br />
the local communities themselves. (As the whole of Silesia<br />
was still recovering from the ravages of the war, there was no<br />
money for construction: it was eventually raised by appealing<br />
to protestant communities all over Europe).<br />
No restrictions, however, were placed on interior decoration<br />
(this is often thought to have been an oversight), and<br />
as a result the architect of the three churches, Albricht von<br />
Sabisch (1610-88) - as any jaw-dropped visitor to Świdnica<br />
or Jawor will testify - went seriously bananas. Both churches<br />
were later fur ther embellished with towers and spires (by<br />
which time Silesia was firmly part of the very protestant<br />
Kingdom of Prussia), resulting in the extraordinary monuments<br />
we view today.<br />
The first Church of Peace to be built was that at Głogów,<br />
105 kilometres northwest of Wrocław, where work got<br />
under way in October 1651; the first service took place on<br />
October 25th 1652. The church was not lucky: it fell down in<br />
high winds in 1654, though was quickly rebuilt. It then burnt<br />
down in 1758 (local legend states it was struck by lightning)<br />
and was replaced by a brick church. A bomb destroyed that<br />
during World War II, leaving just a shell which was pulled down<br />
in the 1950s by Poland’s communist government. A sketch<br />
of the church (the only one in existence) can be seen in the<br />
similar-looking, though much smaller church in the village of<br />
Pogorzeliska, 40 kilometres south.<br />
Peace Church in Jawor, Adam Kumiszcza, pl.wikipedia.org<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Found some 160km northwest of<br />
Wroclaw, the town of Żagań was the<br />
site of one of the most celebrated<br />
prison breakouts of all time.<br />
Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood<br />
blockbuster The Great Escape, the<br />
daring break from the Nazi prisonerof-war<br />
camp Stalag Luft III has since<br />
been ingrained into English and<br />
Commonwealth culture. Opened in<br />
1942 outside the German town of<br />
Sagan (now Polish Żagań), the camp<br />
was designed to hold thousands of<br />
captured allied airmen, including the<br />
moviegoods.com most persistent escapees inside<br />
Copyright: MGM the Reich’s network of prisons.<br />
Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led<br />
by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out of the<br />
complex before setting off independently for neutral territory.<br />
Even though the chances of success were slim, Bushell hoped<br />
that the very notion of 250 allied airmen loose inside the Third<br />
Reich would be enough to create an internal security headache,<br />
hence diverting important Nazi military resources.<br />
Having assembled a team of forgers, craftsmen, tailors and<br />
engineers, Bushell’s ‘escape committee’ spent months building<br />
a trio of tunnels, all the time averting detection in what<br />
was to become a game of cat and mouse with the camp<br />
guards. Using improvised materials as diverse as tables,<br />
water cans and spoons, the men created tunnels that were<br />
a triumph of ingenuity. Prisoners moved underground on<br />
trolleys, having entered through a concealed access point<br />
in a shower drain. The tunnels were fitted with electric light,<br />
ventilated by air pumps and shored up using approximately<br />
4,000 bed boards stolen from around the camp.<br />
Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and his<br />
cabal ensured escapees were provided with civilian clothes,<br />
forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200 tonnes of<br />
sand and earth were excavated, then carefully deposited in<br />
the exercise yards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their<br />
trouser legs, or inside the two other storage tunnels.<br />
The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but<br />
unexpected air raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76<br />
men to make it through before camp guards uncovered the<br />
escape. Those who did make it through set off on foot or by<br />
rail, though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many<br />
escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station until<br />
daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. <strong>In</strong> total only<br />
two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to safety.<br />
On hearing of the escape a fuming Hitler initially ordered all<br />
escapees to be shot upon recapture, as well as the camp’s<br />
architect, security officer and the guards on duty at the<br />
time. The Geneva Conventions prevented this original order<br />
from being carried out, however 50 of the escapees were<br />
executed, 17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to<br />
Sachenhausen and two were delivered to Colditz.<br />
Hollywood’s Take<br />
Film buffs should take into account that the screen version of<br />
events took several artistic liberties - much to the irritation of<br />
many survivors. The film is actually a highly fictionalized recounting<br />
of the more famous of two escapes from the camp.<br />
For those familiar with the film there wasn’t a motorbike chase<br />
(actor Steve McQueen, a motorcycle fanatic and accomplished<br />
rider requested it be added), nor were any Americans involved; all<br />
U.S. prisoners had been moved to another camp several months<br />
earlier. <strong>In</strong>explicably, the Bushell character was renamed Bartlett<br />
in the film (he’s played by Richard Attenborough), a fact visitors<br />
should keep in mind if you find yourself visiting the graves which<br />
are in Poznań since “Bartlett” won’t be found.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
THE GREAT ESCAPE<br />
What to See<br />
Museum of the Prisoner of War Camps (Muzeum<br />
Obozów Jenieckich) ul. Lotników Alianckich 6,<br />
Żagań, tel. (+48) 68 478 49 94, www.muzeum.zagan.<br />
pl. If you’re a fan of the movie “The Great Escape” or even<br />
if you are just a fan of WWII flicks, Zagan will be a real treat.<br />
The infamous Stalag Luft III which is situated out in the<br />
woods on the outskirts of the town housed Allied prisoners<br />
of war. The camp is only a few kilometres from the city<br />
centre and manages to pay tribute both to the actual March<br />
25th, 1944 escape, and to the movie, despite the fact that<br />
their stories differ considerably. The Museum of the Prisoner<br />
of War does a fine job recounting and recreating the<br />
camp conditions and the escape (also paying tribute to the<br />
film). We recommend that you first of all visit the museum<br />
before exploring the surrounding area. You’ll find a number<br />
of recreations meticulously constructed to reproduce the<br />
camp in all its particulars. The watch-tower and barracks<br />
replicas are a bit chilling as are the guard posts and signs<br />
that read “Warning!! Upon entrance of this zone guard will<br />
shoot”. The “Harry” Tunnel (the one used during the Great<br />
Escape) has an impressive recreation in the front courtyard<br />
completed by young engineering students sponsored by<br />
the EU. The two prominent memorials in front will bring a<br />
sober reminder of the true purpose and symbolism of the<br />
camp. The first is a small memorial to the “Long March”<br />
in which the surviving prisoners were brutally forced to<br />
march through the snow west into Germany to evade the<br />
Russian advance. The second is a huge and heart-breaking<br />
sculpture of an emaciated starvation victim curled in the<br />
foetal position having succumbed to the deprivations of<br />
the camp’s environment. For those who haven’t seen the<br />
film, all but three of the escapees were recaptured and<br />
most were summarily executed. So, while it is an amazing<br />
and inspiring film and place to visit, don’t expect a happy<br />
Hollywood ending.<br />
While you’re in the area, the town of Żagań itself has a few<br />
sights of its own including the Augustine Monastery and<br />
complex, the ancient city walls, the Town Hall and a slew of<br />
old churches. Take a stroll before heading back to the train<br />
station and lighten your mood with a little sight-seeing before<br />
saying goodbye to living history. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Guided<br />
tours 30zł per hour (regardless of number of people). Guided<br />
tours in English should be booked in advance.<br />
Getting There<br />
To reach the camp by train you will need to make a change<br />
en-route. A train departs Wrocław Główny train station<br />
at 07:09 arriving in Zagan at 09:36, but you have to<br />
manage a quick change in Legnica (26.50zł). From Żagań<br />
train station take a local bus from the stop in front of the<br />
station in the direction of Iłowa or Gozdnica and get off at<br />
‘Modernbud’; this puts you 300 metres from the camp. Alternatively,<br />
take a bus in the direction of Wesoła getting off<br />
at ‘Staszica’ and you’re about the same distance. Tickets<br />
cost 2zł. For later train departures to Zagan from Wrocław<br />
Główny, the advantages of which are debateable, check<br />
the English version of www.rozklad.pkp.pl.<br />
To return to Wrocław on the same day there is a direct<br />
train from Zagan at 15:46 (22zł), which arrives in Wrocław<br />
at 18:20. Miss that and you’ll need to catch the 17:14,<br />
which again changes in Legnica, arriving in Wrocław at<br />
20:10 (22zł).<br />
September - December 2012<br />
79
80 LEISURE<br />
Though skirt-watching and spirit-sipping in the city’s cafés<br />
and beer gardens is perhaps the most popular local leisure<br />
activity, our Leisure section is more designed to help you get<br />
out and make the most of a sunny day, or stay active during<br />
a dreary one. Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities,<br />
Wrocław offers plenty of recreation opportunities on top<br />
of its great architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic<br />
location on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city<br />
boasts kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as<br />
well as kayak rentals and river cruises. Locals flock to the<br />
Botanical and Japanese Gardens in spring time, and there<br />
are plenty of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrów<br />
Tumski to Partisan Hill (see Sightseeing). The historical<br />
Partynice Racecourse and amazing Adrenalina Park are<br />
outstanding day-outings, the Municipal Swimming Pools<br />
are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the best in<br />
the country. Football fans also have the chance to see one<br />
of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in a brand-new<br />
state-of-the-art stadium. Whatever your interest, be it golf or<br />
yoga, the area has something to offer you, so use the listings<br />
below to stay active in every season.<br />
Adrenaline Sports<br />
Active Poland G-4, ul. Kościuszki 25, tel. (+48) 71 341<br />
82 10, www.activepoland.com. Active Poland organises<br />
group activities including go-karting, paintball, shooting, rafting,<br />
hovercraft rides, kayaking and naughtier evenings out for<br />
the boys. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun open on request.<br />
Kwatera Główna C-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48)<br />
531 63 80 00, www.kwateraglowna.pl. Organised laser<br />
tag in a specially designed maze arena for 2-10 person<br />
groups. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
40zł per person per hour.<br />
Le Mans ul. Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocławskie),<br />
tel. (+48) 600 24 38 56, www.lemans.net.pl. A 450m<br />
go-karting track with high speed corners available for individuals<br />
or groups. If you can prove that it is your birthday they<br />
will give you an 8 minute go for free. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />
10 minutes 28zł, 22 mins 56zł, 35 mins 84zł, 65 mins 140zł.<br />
X-action E-3, ul. Łęczycka 20/8, tel. (+48) 502 02 25<br />
78, www.x-action.pl. The largest company in Lower Silesia<br />
organising adventure activities for groups and companies,<br />
including paintball, quads and off-road rallies in the dramatic<br />
and beautiful terrain south of Wrocław, often followed by<br />
campfire barbeques. <strong>In</strong> summer rafting, parachuting, hanggliding,<br />
climbing and ballooning are also available. Prices<br />
arranged by phone. Q Open by prior arrangement.<br />
Bike Rental<br />
Few things are more lovely than cycling around Wrocław on<br />
a sunny day, as the plethora of long-legged loose-skirted<br />
citizens doing just that will attest. Full of bridges, canals and<br />
green riverfront, Wrocław didn’t just draw the nickname of<br />
‘Poland’s Venice’ out of a hat at the tourist bureau. This is<br />
one of Poland’s greenest cities with 180 kilometres of cycling<br />
paths to back it up. Having a bike is not only a great way to<br />
negate a night of hard living but also an ideal way to take in<br />
the city’s natural beauty and visit further out destinations like<br />
the lovely Szczytnicki Park (I-4/5) to the east and further<br />
south to Rackowiecki forest (I-6). Despite a recent action<br />
by the city to designate specific parking space for bicycles in<br />
front of many Wrocław venues, actually renting a bike is not<br />
nearly as easy as it should be, but hopefully our listings below<br />
will help. If looking to rent a children’s bike, give Czerwony<br />
Stoliczek (B-2, ul. Więzienna 6) a try.<br />
Cinnamon B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. Cinnamon<br />
hostel is happy to rent you a bike when you leave your ID<br />
or 100zł as collateral. The cost is 8zł an hour, but you may<br />
as well just leave them 30zł and take it for the entire day.<br />
Bowling & Billiards<br />
NEW<br />
Bandaclub E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 798 08 55, www.bandaclub.pl. <strong>In</strong> a<br />
town that already has an unusually high number of pool halls,<br />
this new billiards complex on the second floor of Sky Tower<br />
puts them all to shame. Comprising 852m2 with 27 tables<br />
total - 23 for billiards, 4 for snooker, a bar and plenty of seating,<br />
tournaments are organised regularly and you can also<br />
take classes under the tutelage of current Polish snooker<br />
champ, Krzystof Wróbel. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Prices range<br />
from 18-25zł per hour for the table of your choice.<br />
Fuga Mundi C-5, Pl. Grunwaldzki 12-14, tel. (+48)<br />
787 31 68 58, www.fugamundi.pl. Offering professional<br />
billiards and snooker tables, table football and darts. There<br />
is also a game room for smokers and a bar. QOpen 10:00<br />
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Snooker tables cost 18zł per<br />
hour up to 16:00 and 24zł per hour after. Pool tables 14zł<br />
per hour up to 16:00 and 22zł per hour after.<br />
Sezam Prestiż B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 71 344<br />
85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Just off the main square, this<br />
billiards bar covers 600m2 with 17 professional pool tables,<br />
one professional snooker table and plenty of beer and spirits.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. 10-25zł/h.<br />
NEW<br />
SkyBowling E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky<br />
Tower), tel. (+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Full of<br />
shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique colour changing<br />
ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-the-art bowling alley on the<br />
2nd floor of Sky Tower will host the 48th Bowling World Cup from<br />
November 24th - December 2nd. Find 24 lanes, plus a restaurant/bar<br />
and VIP room. Pricing is quite complex and depends on<br />
the time of day and day of the week, ranging from 20zł Monday<br />
mornings to 85zł Friday nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe<br />
rental included). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.<br />
Horse Riding<br />
Partynice Racecourse (Wrocławski Tor Wyścigów<br />
Konnych Partynice) ul. Zwycięska 2 (Krzyki), tel. (+48)<br />
71 339 83 64, www.wtwk-partynice.pl. Opened in 1907,<br />
this beautiful and historic horse racecourse hosts numerous<br />
competitions including hurdle-jumping, steeplechases and<br />
competence trials for the 160 racehorses trained there full-time.<br />
With several racetracks - including the unique grass flat track<br />
which ironically finishes uphill - and picturesque buildings dating<br />
mostly from the turn of the century, Partynice Racecourse and<br />
the surrounding parks make for a lovely outing and are a popular<br />
family picnic spot. 60 more recreation horses are on hand, as<br />
well as a year-round riding school, summer programs for children<br />
and year-round hippotherapeutic classes are available, as well<br />
as riding time with an instructor for 31-37zł. Located 7km south<br />
of Wrocław’s city centre. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />
Sleigh Rides<br />
If you’ve come from a country where the ‘Fun Police’ and<br />
litigation have soured a lot of the good time activities you<br />
remember as a child, suspend your disbelief and enjoy a<br />
traditional Polish sleigh ride by heading off into the snowy<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
woods at night with a bottle of spirits and flaming torches.<br />
Combining Sleepy Hollow creepiness with winter wonderland<br />
romance, extreme sports excitement and campfire camaraderie,<br />
a typical ride involves a large horse-drawn sled<br />
with sleighbells jingling and flaming torches lighting the way<br />
through the beautiful snow-draped countryside, while people<br />
take turns clinging for dear life to a small sledge tied to the<br />
back. Most include a mid-journey forest bonfire with grilled<br />
sausages, tea or (in most cases) vodka. Great fun with the<br />
family or friends, the companies below offer such excursions<br />
for all ages from the season’s first snowfall.<br />
Arat Al. Jeździecka 1, Golędzinów, tel. (+48) 604 97<br />
21 85, www.kjarat.republika.pl. Located about 22km<br />
from Wrocław, Arat offers sleigh rides for individuals and<br />
groups. With a 1 hour ride priced at 200zł it is better suited<br />
to groups, though it is often possible to join up with others to<br />
form a group of up to 10 people. Alternatively hire the whole<br />
sleigh for yourself. Concludes with a bonfire, but you have to<br />
bring your own sausages. Available from the first snowfall,<br />
give them a call in advance for details.<br />
Malta ul. Piłsudskiego 21, Osolin, tel. (+48) 71 310<br />
62 36, www.osolin.pl. Located about 35km from Wrocław,<br />
the English speaking organisers here offer sleigh rides for<br />
groups and individual guests. A 1 hour ride costs 10zł per<br />
person or 15zł per person if you want to end your trip with<br />
a bonfire in a wooden hut (you need to bring your own food<br />
with you). Call in advance to negotiate details. Q Open from<br />
the season’s first snowfall.<br />
Spa & Beauty<br />
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre<br />
A-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel. (+48) 71<br />
342 44 92, www.tajskimasaz.pl.<br />
Authentic Thai massages: improve<br />
blood and limphatic circulation, release<br />
physical and mental tension,<br />
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of<br />
joints and remove toxins. Performed solely by highly<br />
qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in<br />
Bangkok. The offer: classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,<br />
relaxing massage with essential oils, massage<br />
for the physically active, feet’n’legs reflexology, back &<br />
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount<br />
when you present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.<br />
Massages 100-300zł.<br />
Monopol Spa & Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Heleny Modrzejewskiej<br />
2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50,<br />
www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Descend beneath the<br />
grandeur of the Monopol hotel to find one of the city’s premier<br />
spa and wellness centres including a gym, counter-current<br />
swimming pool, fountain and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy<br />
steam bath and salt and iodine cave. Massages, face and body<br />
treatments are also available. Q Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness<br />
Centre 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.<br />
Swimming<br />
Municipal Swimming Pools B-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43, www.spa.wroc.pl. This gorgeous<br />
complex in the very centre of Wrocław housed the city municipal<br />
baths built between 1895-97. Over one hundred years later,<br />
today it maintains its function as a therapeutic swimming<br />
complex, and is one of Wrocław’s most important architectural<br />
monuments from the 19th century (included on the National<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
LEISURE<br />
Registry of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside,<br />
the interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes<br />
sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic<br />
tiles, polychromic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and colonnades<br />
inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome. Currently<br />
serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services are also on<br />
hand (see Spa & Beauty) so if you plan on taking a dip or lying<br />
down for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here.<br />
Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the website<br />
regularly updates its posted reservation schedule, which you’d<br />
be wise to check before thonging down to the pool. QOpen<br />
06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 10-14zł.<br />
Wrocław Water Park (Wrocławski Park Wodny)<br />
F-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71 771 15 11, www.<br />
parkwodny.wroc.pl. Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water<br />
park is easily one of the finest in the country and makes for<br />
a nice respite from the city’s confoundingly complex history<br />
and high-minded cultural attractions. And it’s probably the<br />
only place your kids will tell their friends about from their trip<br />
to Wrocław. While the main attractions are surely the indoor<br />
and outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water<br />
slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia slide<br />
involving lights and music to distract you as you plummet),<br />
wave machines, ‘wild river’ and other wonders, adults will<br />
appreciate the Wellness Day Spa with saunas, solaria,<br />
Jacuzzis, massage services and more. Also on hand is a<br />
fitness centre, restaurant, cafe, bar and shop, making a trip<br />
to the Water Park a full day’s outing, just south of the train<br />
station. From the city centre you can usually take trams 31,<br />
32, 15 or 8 and bus numbers 113 or 612. Q Open 09:00<br />
- 22:40. Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport<br />
pool all have independent hours. Check the website for exact<br />
times. Admission 19/17zł, per hour; 35/30zł for a day pass.<br />
Max Berg<br />
Born in the coastal town of Szczecin (then known as Stettin) in<br />
1870, Max Berg went on to become one of the most eminent<br />
architects of his time, and nowhere will he be remembered<br />
more so than in Wrocław. He attended the Technische<br />
Hochschule Charlottenburg in Berlin where his development<br />
as a budding architect was nurtured first by Carl Schafer,<br />
and then by Franz Adickes. On graduation he worked as a<br />
building inspector in Frankfurt am Main, and in 1907 was<br />
commissioned to sketch a blueprint for the redevelopment<br />
of Berlin. These plans were never realized but that did not<br />
stop his progress. <strong>In</strong> 1909 he was appointed Wrocław’s (then<br />
Breslau) chief architect and set about designing his defining<br />
work – the domed Centennial Hall (I-4, ul. Wystawowa 1). Then<br />
known as the Jahrhunderthalle, the reinforced concrete dome<br />
became the largest building of its kind when it was finally<br />
unveiled in 1913, and in 2006 was awarded the status of a<br />
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Berg was a keen proponent of<br />
the modernist style, and in particular uniform concrete structures.<br />
Living on ul. Kopernika 19 Berg set about changing the<br />
look of Wrocław, with structures including the hydroelectric<br />
power station on ul. Nowy Świat and the public baths (now a<br />
Pizza Hut) on ul. Marii Skłodowskiej Curie. His vision included<br />
maniacal plans to knock down the buildings ringing the Rynek,<br />
replacing them with concrete office blocks and a 20 storey<br />
tower. His designs prompted both praise and outrage in<br />
equal measure and many projects were canned after heated<br />
debate. Disillusioned with his perceived lack of support he<br />
opted for early retirement in 1925. A keen humanitarian he<br />
refused to join the Nazis and instead dedicated the rest of<br />
his life to the study of Christian mysticism, living out the rest<br />
of his days in the spa town of Baden Baden.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
81
82 SHOPPING<br />
Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of<br />
queueing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a<br />
crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shopfronts are stocked with<br />
everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis,<br />
with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around<br />
the market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska.<br />
Odrzańska, Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to<br />
upmarket boutiques and galleries, Jatki (A-2) is known for its<br />
row of artisan galleries, and souvenir hunters will find plenty<br />
in the small stores hidden along the avenues underneath the<br />
Town Hall. For familiar international labels and big brands,<br />
look no further than one of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping<br />
malls; there are several comfortably within the city<br />
centre, while Magnolia Park is Wrocław’s largest consumer<br />
temple, a short cab ride away. Lastly, don’t miss visiting Hala<br />
Targowa for a truly Polish cultural experience while catching<br />
a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops close early<br />
on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.<br />
Alcohol<br />
You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking<br />
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the<br />
country’s success at football. <strong>In</strong>deed, nothing says ‘I’ve been<br />
to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the<br />
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling<br />
and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland<br />
can make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland.<br />
As such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir<br />
list, even if it’s not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin<br />
are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t<br />
miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey<br />
vodka), Żołądkowa (herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwasser<br />
with its signature gold flakes.<br />
Winnica Adoria ul. Żurawia 33, Zachowice, tel. (+48)<br />
605 04 24 33, www.winnicaadoria.pl. When thinking of<br />
wines made in Poland it can be difficult to imagine… well,<br />
that they actually come from Poland. Winnica Adoria wines<br />
come directly from a Polish vineyard about 20 kms south of<br />
the city. You can, of course, visit their winery in person and<br />
try some of their specialties on site. Keep in mind, however,<br />
that you’ll need to drive back to the city at some point and<br />
- just like everywhere else - drinking and driving is a deadly<br />
serious matter in Poland. American owned and run since<br />
2005, Adoria is still too young to have many older vintage<br />
wines, but they do make Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay<br />
and others. Recent years range from 50-90 zł per bottle<br />
and can be bought in person or online. Visit their website if<br />
you’d like to make an excursion to Polish ‘wine country’ and<br />
see the vineyard for yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, Sat,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Amber & Jewellery<br />
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. For<br />
centuries amber drew craftsmen, traders and thieves to<br />
Central Europe and the Baltic. While the thieves may be<br />
gone, amber and its enthusiasts remain, and today Poland<br />
is renowned for its craftsmen who handsomely shape the<br />
fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery.<br />
Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold<br />
and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.<br />
Galeria Biżuterii Artystycznej Derecki E-6, ul.<br />
Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady Wrocławskie), tel.<br />
(+48) 691 59 43 34, www.derecki.art.pl. Unfortunately<br />
forced to move further from the centre, this is still an excellent<br />
shop and worth a look even if you’re not in the market for<br />
a rare meteorite ring. Master goldsmith Sławomir Derecki<br />
has won numerous awards and applies his skill to exclusive<br />
amber pieces, fossils, moon rocks, crystals and more. <strong>In</strong><br />
addition to apparently ‘inventing’ a new kind of amber a few<br />
years ago, Derecki is also an avid historian and collector who<br />
incorporates authentic ancient Greek and Roman artefacts<br />
into his work and even makes his own high-quality handmade<br />
Roman weaponry and period costumes. What does your dad<br />
do? QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Galeria Schubert B-3, Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48)<br />
71 343 95 51. Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has<br />
an impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed<br />
jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they also<br />
offer other precious stones and metals and took a page out of<br />
the Bohemian book with a small section of crystal-ware. If amber<br />
is on your Wroclaw to-do list, Schubert will do nicely without<br />
killing your travel budget or drawing you away from the heart<br />
of the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />
Magic Silver A-3, ul. Odrzańska 7. This small family-run<br />
shop just off the market square specialises in high quality<br />
silver jewellery that incorporates semi-precious stones and<br />
certified authentic amber pieces. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From October open 11:00 -<br />
18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Art & Antiques<br />
Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll find<br />
no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you walk<br />
about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with the<br />
inscriptions ‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul.<br />
Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable<br />
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but<br />
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures<br />
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that<br />
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value<br />
out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order<br />
first (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper dealers can<br />
provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before<br />
opening your wallet.<br />
For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki<br />
(A-2). <strong>In</strong> addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow,<br />
most charming and possibly most touristy street, this row of<br />
former medieval butcher stalls is today home exclusively to<br />
artist studios and galleries, with the exception of one small<br />
art supply shop. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit<br />
our Culture section.<br />
Galeria Antyki Ars Silesia A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 29,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 372 46 91. Antiques, coins, military objects,<br />
porcelain, glass and paintings - with a focus on Lower Silesian<br />
art from the interwar period. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE<br />
Non-EU residents can claim VAT<br />
refunds on purchases made in shops<br />
bearing the Global Blue logo. The<br />
only condition is a minimum outlay<br />
of 200zł on your part on the item<br />
purchased. Claim your Tax Refund<br />
Cheque, have it stamped at customs<br />
before claiming your money back at<br />
your nearest Global Blue Customer<br />
Service. For full details check www.global-blue.com.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Galeria Domus A-2, ul. Jatki 7/8, tel. (+48) 71 344 53<br />
15, www.galeriadomus.pl. Graphic art, jewellery, ceramic,<br />
glasswork and more. Also at (A-3) ul. Więzienna 1/4. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.<br />
Galeria Retro A-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 90 84, www.galeria-retro.com. Antique (rather than<br />
‘retro’ in the western sense) store specialising in glassware,<br />
ceramics, clothes and jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ny Świat w Piwniczce Gotyckiej A-3, ul.<br />
Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 61 03. 76 square<br />
metres of art and antiques from all over the world located<br />
in a gothic brick cellar. The extensive collection includes<br />
a large range of silver, porcelain, Art Nouveau glass, Art<br />
Deco furniture, Polish and German graphics, paintings<br />
and sculpture. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Opening hours could not be confirmed before<br />
press time.<br />
Books, Music & Film<br />
De’ Molika B-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48)<br />
71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl. Closest thing in Wrocław<br />
to the indy record store you’ve always wanted to open. Run<br />
by two devoted owners this tiny shop has all the new and<br />
vintage vinyl you won’t find in the megastores. QOpen 11:00<br />
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Empik Megastore B-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 71<br />
343 39 90, www.empik.com. This massive store selling<br />
books, music, movies, video games, coffee, greeting cards<br />
and more, also has the best selection of foreign papers<br />
and magazines in town, though you can expect to pay a<br />
hefty mark-up for the privelege. Dictionaries, phrase books,<br />
maps and a limited English language fiction section are also<br />
inside. Other locations in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki<br />
and Renoma (see Shopping Malls). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 12:00 - 21:00.<br />
Falanster E-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23, tel. (+48) 609<br />
66 13 30, www.falanster.pl. One of Wrocław’s most<br />
switched-on venues, this hip hangout takes on many guises,<br />
including gallery, bookstore, free trade cafe, concert venue,<br />
and counter-culture meeting grounds, wearing all of them<br />
well simultaneously, and with complete seriousness. Head<br />
here to hang with local artists and activists, while enjoying<br />
delicious coffee and perusing an expanding selection of<br />
English-language books from Kraków’s Massolit. Recommended.<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 24:00.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SHOPPING<br />
Souvenirs & Tourist service<br />
Geschenke & Stadtrundfährte<br />
Pamiątki & Usługi turystyczne<br />
Plac Solny 20, Wrocław<br />
tel. +48 71 799 90 01<br />
biuro@nasolnym.pl, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com<br />
Fashion & Accessories<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational designer clothing and fashion brands can most<br />
easily be found in Wrocław’s shopping malls, though you’ll find<br />
some clothing brands along the pedestrian streets Świdnica<br />
and Oławska. High quality Polish brands include Reserved,<br />
Vistula, Wittchen and Tatuum, none of which as you’ll<br />
notice actually sound Polish, apparently part of a sly, shared<br />
business plan to increase marketability. For a more local<br />
take on consumerism, do some loitering around the massive<br />
clothing market on Plac Zielińskiego (see Markets) or visit<br />
one of the find secondhand clothing stores marked ‘Tania<br />
Odzież’ (Cheap Clothes) you’ll see scattered about the city.<br />
These stores range in quality, from items sorted in dishevelled<br />
bins to others on actual hangers; many are priced by<br />
weight and all have that distinctive embalmed babcia smell.<br />
polish amber jewellery<br />
with certificate of authenticity<br />
Magic Silver<br />
ul. Odrzańska 7B<br />
50-113 Wrocław<br />
puki.co@o2.pl<br />
September - December 2012<br />
83
84 SHOPPING<br />
www.vena-ceramika.com.pl<br />
ul. Rynek 4<br />
Dziki Zachód E-4, Pl. Orląt Lwowskich 20b, tel. (+48)<br />
71 717 13 00, www.dzikizachod.net. Amazing country<br />
western clothing outfitter obscurely hidden in the basement<br />
of an old train station. Gorgeous western shirts straight from<br />
Colorado, cowboys boots and hats, belt buckles, badges and<br />
more. Half authentic, half kitsch, but worth a visit. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Garderoba Vintage A-3, ul. Igielna 14/15 (entrance<br />
from ul. Więzienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77, www.garderobavintage.pl.<br />
A large, beautiful vintage clothing boutique,<br />
with a rather high standard for what’s on the racks. Ladies<br />
will love this shop full of wearable treasures and lots of local<br />
hand-made jewellery. Just off the market square and joy to<br />
shop in. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ubieralnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 604<br />
63 18 67, www.ubieralnia.pl. Located inside the divine<br />
Czekoladziarnia coffee/chocolate cafe, this small shop sells<br />
high-quality women’s fashion and accessories by top young<br />
local designers. Girlfriends love it. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,<br />
Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Wittchen E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady<br />
Wrocławskie), tel. (+48) 518 02 27 39, www.wittchen.<br />
com. One best luxury brands in PL, Wittchen peddles highquality<br />
hand-made leather goods, including jackets, bags,<br />
luggage, gloves, wallets, shoes and more. All come with a<br />
‘Certificate of Authenticity’ and a hologram to justify the<br />
high price tag. A great place to style out the man in your life,<br />
Wittchen is carried in many shops around Wrocław, but head<br />
to one of the shopping malls to visit their showroom. Also in<br />
Pasaż Grunwaldzki (H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22) and Magnolia Park<br />
(ul. Legnicka 58). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Food & Sweets<br />
Czekoladziarnia E-4, ul. Włodkowica 19, tel. (+48) 71<br />
797 57 16, www.czekoladziarnia.com.pl. This rich cafe<br />
serves a variety of desserts, fondues and chocolate drinks<br />
you’ll have to eat with a spoon. Splash out on the chocolate<br />
fountain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00<br />
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.<br />
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki<br />
22/123 (Pasaż Grunwaldzki), tel. (+48) 71 796 79<br />
46, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. This cafe, or ‘chocolate lounge’<br />
as they call it, from Poland’s oldest chocolate brand serves<br />
a vast menu of rich chocolate drinks, handmade pralines<br />
and desserts in addition to selling the gamut of Wedel’s<br />
other sweet tooth satisfiers. A lesson in the versatility of<br />
chocolate. Also at ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park). QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
Słodkie Czary Mary B-3, ul. Szewska 27-27a, tel.<br />
(+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. A<br />
small, charming hand-made sweets shop where you<br />
watch the candy get made before your eyes. Most of<br />
the interior is occupied by the long work counter where<br />
young ladies are busy rolling out the colourful candies<br />
that cover the shop shelves as children and their parents<br />
watch in wonder. Proper candy-making demonstrations<br />
are conducted at 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00 weekdays,<br />
and every hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends. Not<br />
only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience for<br />
children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced lollipops<br />
and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours<br />
from rhubarb to whiskey-cola. QOpen 12:30 - 18:00,<br />
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.<br />
Gifts & Souvenirs<br />
It’s only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to Poland<br />
and leave with some tangible evidence to show all those<br />
folks back home who have no idea what or where the country<br />
is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family while in the<br />
country, it’s common practice to arrive with a gift. Wrocław<br />
being an established tourist destination, you’ll find souvenir<br />
stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around the Old Town; while<br />
that’s all well and good, most of this merchandise probably<br />
wasn’t made in Poland, just like most of the Mexican food in<br />
Poland isn’t prepared by Mexicans. Here, and throughout this<br />
section, we’ve made an attempt to identify unique shops in<br />
Wrocław that sell local or Polish products so we can all feel<br />
good about where you’re spending your złoty.<br />
Cepelia B-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 55, tel. (+48) 71 780 78<br />
77, www.cepelia.pl. For over 55 years, this well-recognised<br />
company has been promoting and preserving Polish folk art<br />
and handicrafts with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings,<br />
knitwork, wickery and much more. A lot of it’s touristy<br />
rubbish, but we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our<br />
birthday’s coming up). Also at (B-2), Pl. Biskupa Nankiera<br />
5/6/7. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Ceramika Bolesławiecka C-1, ul. Henryka Sienkiewicza<br />
10, tel. (+48) 71 372 03 12, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl.<br />
A fine selection of Poland’s universally<br />
liked Bolesławiec folk ceramics on Ostrów Tumski. If you’re<br />
searching for a gift for someone back home, here’s the answer.<br />
The shop attendants speak English and German and<br />
you can even pay by card. Mission accomplished. QOpen<br />
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Note that<br />
Saturday opening hours may be shortened during the life<br />
of this guide.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
DecoBazaar B-1, ul. Łokietka 6, www.decobazaar.<br />
com. Across the river north of the market square, this<br />
uber-hip contemporary arts and crafts gallery is worth<br />
seeking out for its unique collection of handmade products<br />
from Poland. A showcase of young local design, here you’ll<br />
find plenty of original clothing, jewellery, accessories and<br />
home decor, plus prize finds from the area’s secondhand<br />
stores and antique fairs. QOpen 10.00 - 18.00, Sat 10.00<br />
- 14.00. Closed Sun.<br />
Na Solnym A-3, Pl. Solny 20, tel. (+48) 71 799 90<br />
01, www.wroclawsouvenirs.com. This shop on Plac<br />
Solny sells a variety of city souvenirs, in addition to arranging<br />
tours and dispensing info. Here you’ll find a variety<br />
of things to take home from tourist standard souvenirs<br />
like postcards, photo albums, guide books, T-shirts,<br />
key-chains and gnome figurines, to local hand-made<br />
jewellery and gifts of glass, lace and ceramic. There are<br />
also some gifts for fans of the local football side. QOpen<br />
09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Shop A-3, Rynek 14, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 344 31 11, www.wroclaw-info.pl. Located<br />
smack on the market square, Wrocław’s Tourist <strong>In</strong>fo<br />
Centre is ground zero not only for info and leaflets, but<br />
also for city-related souvenirs. Enter past the friendly<br />
gnome outside the front door to find all manner of trinkets,<br />
T-shirts, tote-bags, magnets, mugs (coffee and<br />
beer), glasses (large and shot-sized), books (guides and<br />
non-fiction), flags (Polish and EU), coasters, key-chains...<br />
basically if you can put ‘Wrocław,’ ‘Poland’ or a gnome on<br />
it, they’ve got it. Find a second point at ul. Sukiennice 12<br />
(A-3, open 10:00-18:00). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. From<br />
October open 09:00 - 19:00.<br />
Vena Pottery (Galeria Vena) A-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 43 70, www.vena-ceramika.com.pl. If you aren’t<br />
familiar with the universally-loved Bolesławiec style of Polish<br />
ceramic, which hails from a little town not far to the west<br />
of Wrocław, then make sure you drop into this shop on the<br />
market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted in traditional<br />
folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not only looks<br />
unique and beautiful, but is also practical for everyday use.<br />
This is one of the best collections we’ve seen anywhere and<br />
a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with a kitchen. QOpen<br />
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Note that weekend opening hours<br />
may change during the shelf life of this guide.<br />
Health & Beauty<br />
Organique Natural Cosmetics E-4, ul. Legnicka<br />
58 (Magnolia Park), tel. (+48) 71 338 54 39, www.<br />
organique.pl. This Polish company offers ecological,<br />
organic cosmetics and other health and beauty products<br />
inspired by nature. Unfortunately, they’re located<br />
in a shopping mall so you may have to convert some<br />
precious fossil fuels into carbon monoxide in order<br />
to get there. Also at Galeria Dominikańska (C-3, Pl.<br />
Dominikański 3) and Renoma (F-5, ul. Świdnicka 40).<br />
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Perfumerie Frivole E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-<br />
95 (Sky Tower), tel. (+48) 71 797 60 60, www.frivole.<br />
pl. Perfume, make-up, cosmetics and beauty care products<br />
from the world’s top brands, including Calvin Klein, Clinique,<br />
Chanel, Estee Lauder, Armani, Gucci and more, all inside a<br />
spacious and sexy showroom full of minimal white displays<br />
and oddly angling gold geometric shapes. Another location<br />
in Factory Outlet (ul. Graniczna 2). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
SHOPPING<br />
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Markets<br />
Hala Targowa C-2, ul. Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 27 31. Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative<br />
concrete engineer behind Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed<br />
Centennial Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome,<br />
traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a concrete<br />
cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look from an<br />
architectural, cultural and practical standpoint, in Hala<br />
Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top quality<br />
fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well as a wide<br />
selection of local cheese, salami and hams. Upstairs is<br />
a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon underwear and<br />
plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of surprisingly clean<br />
and modern public toilets. To your right as you enter the<br />
market is one of the city’s best little no-name, no-fuss<br />
pierogi bars. Essential. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00<br />
- 15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Zielińskiego Market E-5, Plac Zielińskiego. Not<br />
far from the train station you’ll find the largest market in<br />
Wrocław (and one of its biggest eyesores) - the focus being<br />
on clothing. The hell with soulless shopping malls, this is<br />
the Polish way to get ready for the season. The range of<br />
choices is enormous, from premium suits and high-end<br />
high heels to knock-off handbags and dodgy underwear<br />
stretched and displayed over steering wheels. And the<br />
prices are lower than anywhere so ostentatious as to<br />
have a proper roof. Wearable goods aside, within these<br />
over 300 shacks and tents you’ll also find produce and<br />
fruit stands, pet food, plastic flowers, flashlights, incense<br />
and other essentials. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 -<br />
15:00. Closed Sun.<br />
Shopping Malls<br />
Arkady Wrocławskie E-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich<br />
2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22, www.arkadywroclawskie.pl.<br />
One of Wrocław’s most centrally located<br />
shopping malls, find Arkady Wrocławskie tucked not far<br />
behind the train station. With 110 stores across 30,000<br />
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail centre<br />
include Benetton, H&M, M&S, New Yorker, Alma (the country’s<br />
upscale grocer) and Traffic Club (for foreign press).<br />
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants<br />
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy children’s playpen and<br />
2 storey aquarium, which they’re really quite proud of and<br />
had to bring a powerful lift all the way from faraway Szczecin<br />
just to install: holding 120 litres of water, the enormous<br />
tank is under tremendous pressure held back by glass<br />
12cms thick; home to dozens of colourful fish and coral,<br />
the maintenance of the tank requires constant attention<br />
so the least you could do is take a look at it while between<br />
trying on clothes you can’t afford. Within walking distance<br />
of most places and easily accessed by tram, once you’re<br />
inside Arkady Wrocławskie, good luck making your way out<br />
again. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Factory Outlet ul. Graniczna 2 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)<br />
71 374 00 45, www.factory.pl. This outlet centre close<br />
to the Wrocław Airport is preoccupied with fashion, offering<br />
top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping<br />
malls. Recognisable names among the 107 brands you’ll<br />
find here are Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, Wrangler<br />
Lee, Big Star, Benetton, Adidas, Nike and Puma to name<br />
ten. One of only such outlet centres in Europe - 4 in Spain<br />
and 4 in PL, including Warsaw, Poznań and Kraków - the<br />
concept works, so if you need some new designer stuff take<br />
buses 107, 119, 406, 319 or 241. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Galeria Dominikańska C-3, Pl. Dominikański 3, tel. (+48)<br />
71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl. Wrocław’s<br />
most accessible and well-known retail monolith, Galeria<br />
Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the Rynek, meaning<br />
you’re likely to cross paths with it by accident and you’re probably<br />
going to get sucked in. Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull<br />
& Bear, Pepe Jeans, Tru Trussardi, Max Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media<br />
Markt and an iSpot) you’ll also find some restaurants (Pizza Hut,<br />
Ohh! Sushi & Grill), and we don’t even need to tell you what else<br />
because you’re already inside, you’re on an escalator, you’re making<br />
eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch everything, taste<br />
it, try it on. Put the guide back in your pocket, take the wallet out.<br />
QOpen 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower E-6, ul. Powstańców<br />
Śląskich 73-95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.<br />
skytower.pl. You have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its<br />
skyline, realising the arrival of its first bonafide skyscraper<br />
with Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth<br />
you see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.<br />
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential<br />
apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone<br />
boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants, cafes,<br />
services and sports facilities. Here you’ll find about 80 top<br />
name brands, including Lee Wrangler, Reserved, Solar, Swiss<br />
and Perfumerie Frivole Prestige, over a dozen restaurants<br />
and cafes, a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda<br />
Club - the largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane<br />
bowling alley in Sky Bowling and plenty more. The design is<br />
flat gorgeous and features a surreal Salvador Dali sculpture<br />
outside the front entrance. Park your vehicle in one of the<br />
1500 spots or take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’<br />
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.<br />
DISCOVER<br />
WEALTH SENSATIONS<br />
IN THE HIGHEST BUILDING<br />
IN POLAND<br />
SHOPPING<br />
SKY TOWER SHOPPING MALL | MON-SAT 10 AM - 10 PM, SUN 10 AM - 9 PM<br />
POWSTANCOW SLASKICH ST. 73-95 | TEL. 71 7383111 | WWW.GALERIA.SKYTOWER.PL<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
September - December 2012<br />
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Likus Concept Store A-4, ul. Świdnicka 33 (Monopol<br />
Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 36 34, www.likusconceptstore.pl.<br />
An established fixture in Kraków, Warsaw and<br />
now Wrocław, the Likus Concept Store boasts carefully<br />
chosen brands and a personalised range of botique shops.<br />
Located inside the historic Monopol Hotel, Wrocław’s LCS<br />
carries on their signature mix of modern design incorporating<br />
restored architectural details to create one of the<br />
most pleasant and refreshing retail spaces in town. Not<br />
your typical shopping mall at all. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,<br />
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />
Magnolia Park ul. Legnicka 58 (Fabryczna),<br />
tel. (+48) 71 338 44 66, www.magnoliapark.pl.<br />
Opened in October 2007, Magnolia Park can be easily<br />
interpreted as a symbol of Wrocław’s rocket blast into<br />
the 21st century. Situated close to the city centre and<br />
covering over 240,000 m2 Wrocław’s biggest retail<br />
complex features designer stores Peek & Cloppenburg,<br />
Tatuum, Camaieu, EMPiK, iSpot (the Apple computers<br />
shop) and electronics giant Saturn. Magnolia is serviced<br />
by nine tram and bus routes with parking for 2,800<br />
vehicles. Reasons to visit go beyond the sheer scale<br />
of retail opportunities; catering to the hungry masses<br />
are names like Burger King, American Bar & Grill and<br />
Sphinx to name but a few. Over 40,000 m2 has been<br />
set aside for recreation alone and aside from the requisite<br />
multiplex cinema visitors will find cycle paths,<br />
playground, art and cultural events and an 800 metre<br />
lake with fountains as well as plenty of parkland and<br />
greenery and a dramatic piazza. To get there hop on<br />
tram numbers 10 or 20 and get off at the ‘Niedźwiedzia’<br />
stop. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.<br />
Pasaż Grunwaldzki H-4, Pl. Grunwaldzki 22, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 335 87 22, www.pasazgrunwaldzki.pl.<br />
Make a pilgrimage east of Ostrów Tumski’s cathedral<br />
island and you’ll find another place of worship - this<br />
modern retail temple with more than 200 shops over<br />
four floors. Blown to pieces during WWII, Pasaż Grunwaldski<br />
has revitalised what was once one of Wrocław’s<br />
most affluent areas by pouring all the money into one<br />
giant funnel. We’re sure you can buy a vaccuum as<br />
well as anything else you can think of. Retail roll call:<br />
Big Star, Ecco, Empik, H&M, <strong>In</strong>timissimi, Levi’s, Pierre<br />
Cardin, Reserved, Zara, here. Multiplex cinema, here.<br />
Food court, now presiding. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun<br />
10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Renoma F-5, ul. Świdnicka<br />
40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58<br />
20, www.renoma-wroclaw.<br />
pl. One of the largest pre-war<br />
department stores in Europe<br />
- and the only one of its kind<br />
remaining - this magnificent<br />
consumer showpiece was<br />
added to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977<br />
and has been recently restored and modernised for today’s<br />
retail market. The unique 1930s facade of ceramic tiles and<br />
gilded heads has been returned to its former glory while<br />
inside you’ll find today’s most cutting-edge brands - TK<br />
Maxx, New Look, River Island, Empik, Alma, Zara - and a<br />
third floor restaurant with fine views of the Old Town. <strong>In</strong> addition<br />
to the original building’s refurbishment, a new modern<br />
wing has been added on Plac Czysty. Easily outclassing the<br />
city’s other shopping malls and smack in the centre, if it<br />
was in our disposition to call a shopping mall a must-see<br />
attraction, this would fit the bill.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,<br />
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
24hr Pharmacies<br />
Katedralna D-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71<br />
322 73 15. A good choice if you’re north of the old town by<br />
the Cathedral and the Botanical Garden.<br />
Pod Lwami A-2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343<br />
67 24. West of Old Town near the Archeological Museum.<br />
Pułaska G-5, ul. Pułaskiego 49a, tel. (+48) 71 789 91<br />
38, www.herbavit.com.pl.<br />
Business Associations<br />
British Polish Chamber of Commerce (Brytyjsko-<br />
Polska Izba Handlowa) E-4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel.<br />
(+48) 71 733 13 75, www.bpcc.org.pl.<br />
Lower Silesian Chamber of Commerce<br />
(Dolnośląska Izba Gospodarcza) A-4, ul. Świdnicka<br />
39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www.dig.wroc.pl.<br />
The Lower Silesian Chamber of Craft (Dolnośląska<br />
Izba Rzemieślnicza) A-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71<br />
344 86 91, www.izba.wroc.pl.<br />
Western Chamber of Commerce (Zachodnia Izba<br />
Gospodarcza) A-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 795 06 56, www.zig.pl.<br />
Consulates & Embassies<br />
Austria ul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841 00<br />
81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.<br />
Bulgaria Al. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48)<br />
22 629 40 71.<br />
Denmark ul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)<br />
22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.<br />
Currency Exchange<br />
Changing money in Wrocław is increasingly less fretful to<br />
do, but as with most international destinations it is still<br />
worth checking and comparing exchange rates, particularly<br />
at entry points such as airports and in major tourist<br />
areas. Here we check the rates of a selection of money<br />
exchange offices (kantors) every four months. Below<br />
were their buying rates (how many złoty you would get<br />
for one unit of foreign currency) for 20.08.12 compared<br />
to the following rates published by the National Bank of<br />
Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro 1 = 4.0342zł, US<br />
$1 = 3.2724zł, GBP 1 = 5.1418zł.<br />
Currency Express ul. Graniczna 190 (Airport), tel.<br />
(+48) 71 358 12 10.<br />
1 Euro = 3.40zł,<br />
1 Dollar = 2.84zł,<br />
1 Pound = 4.43zł,<br />
No commission.<br />
Gant E-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.<br />
(+48) 71 338 52 60, www.gant.com.pl.<br />
1 Euro = 3.95zł,<br />
1 Dollar = 3.21zł,<br />
1 Pound = 5.05zł,<br />
No commission.<br />
Kantor Cent ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 372 35<br />
02, www.centkantor.pl.<br />
1 Euro = 4.06zł,<br />
1 Dollar = 3.29zł,<br />
1 Pound = 5.17zł,<br />
No commission.<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
DIRECTORY<br />
France ul. Piękna 1, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,<br />
www.ambafrance-pl.org.<br />
Germany C-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27<br />
00, www.breslau.diplo.de.<br />
Mexico Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22<br />
646 88 00, sre.gob.mx/polonia.<br />
Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22<br />
559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.<br />
Slovakia ul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525 81<br />
10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.<br />
Sweden ul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89<br />
00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.<br />
Ukraine Al. Szucha 7, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47<br />
97, www.mfa.gov.ua/poland/pl/2257.htm.<br />
United Kingdom ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48)<br />
22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk. Please<br />
note that all consular services are now carried out by the<br />
embassy in Warsaw.<br />
Dentists<br />
Dental Art A-6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel. (+48) 71<br />
373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl. Open for normal appointments<br />
from 08:00-21:00 (Sat 08:00-19:00) and emergencies<br />
from 19:00-07:00 (so plan accordingly).<br />
Emergency Room<br />
4 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny ul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki),<br />
tel. (+48) 71 766 02 08, www.4wsk.pl.<br />
Dolnośląski Szpital Specjalistyczny - Centrum<br />
Medycyny Ratunkowej H-5, ul. Traugutta 116,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.szpital-marciniak.<br />
wroclaw.pl.<br />
<strong>In</strong>ternational Schools<br />
American School of Wrocław ul. Wyścigowa 63<br />
(Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 333 69 92, www.asw.org.pl/<br />
en/. Give your child a foundation in truth, justice and the<br />
American way at this preschool.<br />
British <strong>In</strong>ternational School F-6, Al. Akacjowa<br />
10-12, tel. (+48) 71 796 68 61, www.bisc.wroclaw.<br />
pl. Ensure that your child speaks the Queen’s English by<br />
sending them to this British primary and secondary school.<br />
Wroclaw <strong>In</strong>ternational School E-5, ul. Zielińskiego<br />
38, tel. (+48) 71 782 26 26, www.wis.fem.org.pl. Also<br />
home to a bilingual primary and secondary school.<br />
Private Clinics<br />
Lux-Med (Lux-Med Centrum Medyczne) E-4,<br />
ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88, www.<br />
luxmed.pl.<br />
Medicover E-5, ul. Grabiszyńska 165, tel. (+48) 500<br />
90 05 00, www.medicover.com. Hope you don’t end up<br />
here (not that the people here aren’t lovely, but you know<br />
what we mean). Also at Pl. Powstańców Śląskich 8a (E-6).<br />
Vita Clinic (Vita Spółdzielnia Pracy Lekarzy<br />
Specjalistów i Stomatologów) B-3, ul. Oławska 15,<br />
tel. (+48) 71 343 35 56, www.vita-wroclaw.com.pl.<br />
Translators & <strong>In</strong>terpreters<br />
Express E-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344<br />
76 65, www.tlumaczy.pl. Translates to and from most of<br />
European languages.<br />
Versus D-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 71 372 30<br />
11, www.versus.com.pl. Professional translation of texts,<br />
interpreting, conference organisation and equipment hire.<br />
September - December 2012<br />
89
All you need to<br />
know about where<br />
to sleep, eat, drink,<br />
visit and enjoy<br />
Print<br />
Europe's biggest publisher of locally produced city guides<br />
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
Online<br />
Mobile
DW.NADODRZE- Słowiańska - Nowowiejska - Piastowskapl.<br />
Grunwaldzki - pl. Wróblewskiego - Pułaskiego -<br />
DW. GŁÓWNY PKP - Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana<br />
Pawła II - Mosty Mieszczańskie - Pomorska - pl. Staszica -<br />
DW. NADODRZE<br />
MARINO- Żmigrodzka - Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze -<br />
Słowiańska - Nowowiejska - Piastowska - pl. Grunwaldzki -<br />
BISKUPIN<br />
BISKUPIN- pl. Grunwaldzki- Katedra - Urząd Wojewódzki-<br />
Galeria Dominikańska - Dworzec Główny PKP - Arkady -<br />
KRZYKI<br />
PILCZYCE - pl. Jana Pawła II - Kazimierza Wlk. - Galeria<br />
Dominikańska - pl. Wróblewskiego - KSIĘŻE MAŁE<br />
BISKUPIN- pl. Grunwaldzki - Galeria Dominikańska -<br />
Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - pl. Legionów -FAT-OPORÓW<br />
KSIĘŻE MAŁE - pl.Wróblewskiego - Galeria Dominikańska-<br />
Dw.Główny PKP- pl.Legionów -FAT- OPORÓW<br />
KOWALE - Kromera - Jedności Narodowej- pl. Bema -<br />
Drobnera - Most Uniwersytecki - Nowy Świat - Kazimierza<br />
Wlk. - Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - KRZYKI - Arkady -<br />
Renoma- Opera- Szewska- Most Uniwersytecki- Drobnerapl.<br />
Bema - Jedności Narodowej- Kromera - KOWALE<br />
MARINO - Żmigrodzka - Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze -<br />
Chrobrego - Most Uniwersytecki - Nowy Świat -<br />
Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - KRZYKI -<br />
Arkady - Renoma - Opera - Szewska - Most Uniwersytecki -<br />
Dw. Nadodrze - Trzebnicka - Żmigrodzka - MARINO<br />
ZAWALNA- Trzebnicka - Dw. Nadodrze - Słowiańska -<br />
pl. Bema - Galeria Dominikańska - Dw. Główny PKP -<br />
Borowska - Gliniana - Armii Krajowej - TARNOGAJ<br />
SĘPOLNO - Stadion Olimpijski - Sienkiewicza -<br />
pl. Bema - Galeria Dominikańska - Dw. Główny PKP -<br />
Borowska - Ślężna - PARK POŁUDNIOWY<br />
BISKUPIN - pl. Grunwaldzki - Katedra - Galeria<br />
Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. - pl. Jana Pawła II -<br />
LEŚNICA<br />
KROMERA - Jedności Narodowej - pl. Bema - Galeria<br />
Dominikańska - Dw. Głowny PKP - pl. Legionów - FAT -<br />
GRABISZYŃSKA (CMENTARZ)<br />
OSOBOWICE - pl. Staszica - Pomorska - Nowy Świat -<br />
Krupnicza - Renoma - Arkady - Powstańców Śląskich -<br />
Hallera-FAT-Grabiszyńska - pl. Legionów-pl. Jana Pawła II-<br />
Mosty Mieszczańskie-Pomorska-pl.Staszica-OSOBOWICE<br />
MARINO - Żmigrodzka - Bałtycka - pl. Staszica- Pomorska-<br />
Nowy Świat - Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza - pl. Legionów -<br />
Arkady - Dw. Główny PKP - Borowska - Ślężna - PARK<br />
POŁUDNIOWY<br />
SĘPOLNO - Stadion Olimpijski - Sienkiewicza - pl. Bema -<br />
Galeria Dominikańska - Teatralna - Renoma - Arkady -<br />
Krzyki - KLECINA<br />
LEŚNICA - pl. Jana Pawła II - Kazimierza Wlk. - Krupnicza -<br />
Renoma - Arkady - Powst. Śląskich - Hallera - FAT -<br />
OPORÓW<br />
KROMERA - Jedności Narodowej- pl. Bema - Galeria<br />
Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. -pl. Jana Pawła II -<br />
WROC. PARK PRZEMYSŁOWY<br />
OSOBOWICE - pl. Staszica - Pomorska - Mosty<br />
Mieszczańskie - pl. Jana Pawła II - pl. Legionów - FAT -<br />
Hallera - Powst. Śląskich - Arkady - Renoma - Krupnicza -<br />
Nowy Świat - Pomorska - pl. Staszica - OSOBOWICE<br />
GAJ - Bardzka - Hubska - Gliniana - Borowska -<br />
Dw. Główny PKP- Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana Pawła II-<br />
Legnicka - Milenijna - Pilczycka - STADION WROCAW<br />
(Królewiecka)<br />
GAJ - Bardzka - Hubska - Gliniana - Borowska -<br />
Dw. Główny PKP- Arkady - pl. Legionów - pl. Jana Pawła II-<br />
Legnicka - Milenijna - Pilczycka - DOKERSKA<br />
STADION OLIMPIJSKI - Kochanowskiego -<br />
pl. Grunwaldzki - Galeria Dominikańska - Kazimierza Wlk. -<br />
pl. Jana Pawła II - PILCZYCE<br />
MARINO<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
6<br />
LEŚNICA<br />
15<br />
23<br />
KOWALE<br />
<br />
<br />
6 11<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
8<br />
1 7<br />
24<br />
STADION<br />
WROCŁAW<br />
(Królewiecka)<br />
PLUS<br />
10 20<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
15<br />
14<br />
STADION OLIMP.<br />
PLUS<br />
<br />
<br />
SĘPOLNO<br />
9 17<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
33+<br />
23<br />
0 14 24<br />
<br />
<br />
3 10 20 33+<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
KROMERA<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
ZAWALNA<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
0 1<br />
0<br />
0 1 8<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
6<br />
<br />
<br />
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9 17<br />
<br />
<br />
DOKERSKA<br />
OSOBOWICE<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1 2 4 10<br />
PLUS PLUS<br />
<br />
<br />
24<br />
17<br />
BISKUPIN<br />
PILCZYCE<br />
33+<br />
4<br />
0<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
2 3 4 510<br />
33+<br />
11<br />
15<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
8 9<br />
14<br />
6 7<br />
24<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
10<br />
2<br />
<br />
<br />
14<br />
0<br />
<br />
<br />
3 10 20 31+ 32+ 33+<br />
<br />
<br />
33+<br />
<br />
<br />
6 7<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
23<br />
WROC. PARK<br />
PRZEMYSŁOWY<br />
10<br />
<br />
<br />
4<br />
3<br />
33+<br />
3 4 10 23<br />
32+<br />
31+<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
17<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
24<br />
<br />
<br />
14<br />
<br />
<br />
0<br />
0<br />
<br />
<br />
6 7 14<br />
20 24<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
3 5<br />
2 5 8 9 11<br />
<br />
<br />
4<br />
15<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
0 <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
15<br />
4<br />
32+<br />
31+<br />
5 11 15<br />
<br />
<br />
32+<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
31+<br />
<br />
<br />
15<br />
0 511 15 0 2<br />
31+ 32+<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
KSIĘŻE MAŁE<br />
2 6 7 14 17 20 24<br />
4 5 11 14 24<br />
8 9<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
FAT<br />
PLUS<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
14 20 24<br />
PLUS<br />
17<br />
GRABISZYŃSKA (CM.)<br />
PLUS<br />
PLUS<br />
PLUS<br />
GAJ<br />
8 31+ 32+<br />
8<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
15<br />
9<br />
<br />
<br />
2 6 7<br />
<br />
<br />
OPORÓW<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
KRZYKI<br />
TARNOGAJ<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
PARK PD.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
17<br />
Courtesy of www.wroclaw.pl<br />
N<br />
<br />
<br />
KLECINA
96 STREET REGISTER<br />
Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7<br />
Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego H-1<br />
Al. Kochanowskiego I-3<br />
Al. Kromera H-1<br />
Al. Matejki G-3<br />
Al. Słowackiego G-4<br />
Anny, św. C-2<br />
Antoniego, św. A-3<br />
Arrasowa B-4<br />
Bałuckiego A-5<br />
Bałuckiego F-5<br />
Barlickiego G-2<br />
Barycka D-1<br />
Barycka G-3<br />
Baudouina de Courtenay I-2<br />
Bema G-3<br />
Bema, gen. C-1<br />
Bema, gen., pl. C-1<br />
Benedyktyńska F-3, G-3<br />
Berenta H-1<br />
Bernardyńska C-3<br />
Bernardyńska G-4<br />
Białoskórnicza A-2<br />
Biskupia B-3<br />
Biskupia F-4<br />
Bogusławskiego A/B-5<br />
Bogusławskiego F-5<br />
Bohaterów Getta, pl. A-3<br />
Bolesława Chrobrego F-2/3<br />
Borna, pl. A-1<br />
Borowska A-6<br />
Borowska F-6<br />
Bożego Ciała A/B-4<br />
Bożego Ciała F-5<br />
Braniborska E-4<br />
Brodatego Henryka B-1<br />
Browarna G-1/2<br />
Brzeska D-6<br />
Brzeska H-6<br />
Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4<br />
Bulwar Włostowica G-4<br />
Ciepła F-6/7<br />
Cieszkowskiego I-2<br />
Cieszyńskiego A-2<br />
Cieszyńskiego F-4<br />
Curie-Skłodowskiej H-4, I-4<br />
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2<br />
Cybulskiego F-3<br />
Czerwonego Krzyża I-3<br />
Czesława, bł. B-3<br />
Czysta B-4/5<br />
Czysta F-5<br />
Czysty, pl. A/B-4<br />
Dąbrowskiego G-5<br />
Dąbrowskiego, gen. C-5<br />
Daszyńskiego G-2, H-2/3<br />
Dawida G-6<br />
Dębickiego F-2<br />
Długa E-3<br />
Dmowskiego E-3<br />
Dobra E-4<br />
Dobrzyńska D-4<br />
Dobrzyńska G-4<br />
Dolna G-2<br />
Dominikański, Pl. C-3<br />
Doroty, św. A-4<br />
Drobnera B/C-1<br />
Drobnera F-3, G-3<br />
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4<br />
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5<br />
Drukarska E-6/7<br />
Drzewna E-4<br />
Dubois A/B-1<br />
Dubois F-3<br />
Dworcowa B/C-5<br />
Dworcowa G-5<br />
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6<br />
Dyrekcyjna F-6<br />
Elżbiety, św. A-3<br />
Flisacka E-2, F-2<br />
Franciszkańska A-4<br />
Franciszkański, pl. A-4<br />
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3<br />
Gajowa C-6<br />
Garbary A/B-2<br />
Garncarska C-3<br />
Gdańska H-3<br />
Gepperta A-3<br />
Gliniana F-6, G-6<br />
Gnieźnieńska E-2<br />
Górnickiego H-3<br />
Grabiszyńska E-5<br />
Grodzka B/C-2<br />
Grodzka F-4, G-4<br />
Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3<br />
Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4<br />
Gwarna B-5<br />
Gwarna F-5<br />
Hauke-Bosaka G-5<br />
Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4<br />
Henryka Brodatego F-3<br />
Henryka Pobożnego F-3<br />
Henrykowska G-7<br />
Hercena C-5<br />
Hercena G-5<br />
Hlonda, kard. D-2<br />
Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4<br />
Hubska C-6<br />
Hubska G-6/7<br />
Chemiczna H-3<br />
Chudoby H-6<br />
Idziego, św. C/D-2<br />
Igielna A/B-3<br />
Igielna F-4<br />
<strong>In</strong>owrocławska E-3<br />
Jadwigi, św. C-2<br />
Jagiełły E-3<br />
Janickiego C-3<br />
Janickiego G-4<br />
Janiszewskiego H-4<br />
Jatki A-2<br />
Jęczmienna E-5<br />
Jedności Narodowej B/C-1<br />
Jedności Narodowej<br />
F-3, G-2/3, H-2<br />
Joannitów B-6<br />
Joannitów F-6<br />
Jodłowa B-3<br />
Joliot-Curie D-2/3<br />
Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4<br />
Józefa, św. D-2<br />
Kamienna E-7, G-7<br />
Kanonia C/D-2<br />
Kapistrana, św. C-3<br />
Kapitulna D-2<br />
Kard. Hlonda G-3<br />
Kard. Wyszyńskiego<br />
G-3/4, H-2/3<br />
Kaszubska F-3<br />
Katarzyny, św. B/C-3<br />
Katedralna C/D-2<br />
Katedralna G-3/4<br />
Katedralny, pl. D-2<br />
Kazimierza Jagiellończyka F-3<br />
Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4<br />
Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4<br />
Kaznodziejska B-3<br />
Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3<br />
Kiełbaśnicza F-4<br />
Kilińskiego C-1<br />
Kilińskiego G-3<br />
Kleczkowska F-2<br />
Kluczborska G-2<br />
Kniaziewicza C-5<br />
Kniaziewicza G-5<br />
Kolejowa E-5<br />
Kołłątaja B-4/5<br />
Komandorska A-5/6<br />
Komandorska F-6<br />
Kominka, kard. D-2<br />
Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6<br />
Komuny Paryskiej G-5<br />
Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl.<br />
B/C-5/6<br />
Kościelny, pl. C-2<br />
Kościuszki A-5<br />
Kościuszki F-5, G-5<br />
Kościuszki, pl. A/D-4/6<br />
Kotlarska A/B-3<br />
Kotlarska F-4<br />
Kraińskiego C-2/3<br />
Krakowska H-6, I-7<br />
Krasińskiego B/C-3/4<br />
Krasińskiego G-5<br />
Kraszewskiego F-2<br />
Krawiecka B-3<br />
Kręta F-2, G-2<br />
Krowia B-3<br />
Krowia F-4<br />
Krupnicza A-3<br />
Krupnicza F-4<br />
Krzysztofa, św., pl. B-4<br />
Krzywa H-3<br />
Księcia Witolda F-3<br />
Kurkowa A-1<br />
Kurkowa F-3<br />
Kurzy Targ B-3<br />
Kurzy Targ F-4<br />
Kuźnicza B-2/3<br />
Kuźnicza F-4<br />
Łaciarska B-2/3<br />
Łaciarska F-4<br />
Ładna H-3/4<br />
Łąka Mazurska H-1, I-1<br />
Łąkowa A-4<br />
Łąkowa F-5<br />
Łazienna A-2<br />
Łazienna F-4<br />
Ledochowskiego D-1<br />
Legnicka E-4<br />
Lelewela E-5<br />
Leszczyńskiego A-3<br />
Lniana G-7<br />
Łódzka F-6/7<br />
Łokietka Władysława B-1<br />
Lubuska E-5<br />
Łukasińskiego D-5<br />
Łukasińskiego G-5<br />
Macieja, św., pl. B-1<br />
Małachowskiego C-6<br />
Małachowskiego F-5, G-5<br />
Malarska A-2<br />
Marcina, św. C-2<br />
Marii Magdaleny, św. B-3<br />
Marsz. Piłsudskiego E-5, F-5<br />
Matejki, al. D-1<br />
Mazowiecka D-3/4<br />
Mazowiecka G-4/5<br />
Mennicza A/B-4<br />
Mennicza F-5<br />
Miernicza D-5<br />
Miernicza G-5<br />
Mieszczańska A-1<br />
Mieszczańska E-3, F-3<br />
Mieszka I C-1/2<br />
Mieszka I G-3<br />
Michalczyka E-3<br />
Mikołaja, św. A-3<br />
Miła H-3/4<br />
Minkowskiego H-3/4<br />
Młoda H-6<br />
Młodych Techników E-3<br />
Modrzejewskiej A-4<br />
Modrzejewskiej F-5<br />
Muzealna A-4<br />
Muzealna F-5<br />
Myśliwska F-3<br />
Na Grobli H-5<br />
Na Niskich Łąkach H-6, I-6<br />
Na Szańcach C-1<br />
Na Szańcach G-3<br />
Nabycińska E-4<br />
Najświętszej Marii Panny C-2<br />
Namysłowska G-2<br />
Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2<br />
Nasypowa A-5<br />
Nasypowa E-5, F-5<br />
Nauczycielska H-4<br />
Nehringa H-4<br />
Niemcewicza C-1<br />
Niemcewicza G-2/3<br />
Nobla F-3<br />
Norwida H-4<br />
Nowa B/C-4<br />
Nowa F-5, G-5<br />
Nowowiejska H-3<br />
Nowy Świat A-2<br />
Nowy Świat F-4<br />
Nowy Targ, pl. B-3<br />
Nożownicza B-2/3<br />
Nożownicza F-4<br />
Nyska G-7, H-7<br />
Odrzańska A-2/3<br />
Odrzańska F-4<br />
Ofiar Oświęcimskich A/B-3<br />
Ofiar Oświęcimskich F-4<br />
Oławska B-3, C-4<br />
Oławska F-4, G-4<br />
Ołbińska G-2/3<br />
Oleśnicka G-3<br />
Orzeszkowej H-2/3<br />
Otmuchowska G-7, I-7<br />
Otwarta A-1<br />
Otwarta F-3<br />
Owsiana E-5<br />
Pabianicka F-6<br />
Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2<br />
Paulińska A/B-1<br />
Paulińska F-3<br />
Pawła Włodkowica E-4<br />
Pawłowa E-5<br />
Pestalozziego G-3<br />
Piaskowa C-2/3<br />
Piaskowa G-4<br />
Piastowska H-3/4<br />
Piłsudskiego, marsz. A/B-5<br />
Piwna H-4<br />
Plac Bema G-3<br />
Plac Borna F-3<br />
Plac Dominikański G-4<br />
Plac Franciszkański F-4<br />
Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4<br />
Plac J. Szeli E-5<br />
Plac Jana Pawła II E-4<br />
Plac Katedralny G-4<br />
Plac Legionów E-5<br />
Plac Nowy Targ B-3<br />
Plac Orląt Lwowskich E-4<br />
Plac Polski G-4<br />
Plac Powstańców Śląskich E-7<br />
Plac Powstańców Warszawy<br />
G-4<br />
Plac Powstańców<br />
Wielkopolskich F-2<br />
Plac Rozjezdny E-5<br />
Plac Słowiański G-2<br />
Plac Solny F-4<br />
Plac Strzelecki F-2<br />
Plac św. Krzysztofa F-4<br />
Plac św. Mikołaja E-3<br />
Plac Teatralny F-5<br />
Plac Uniwersytecki F-4<br />
Plac Westerplatte H-3<br />
Plac Wróblewskiego G-5<br />
Plac Zgody H-5<br />
Podwale A/C-3/5<br />
Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5<br />
Podwórcowa F-3<br />
Polaka H-4<br />
Polski, pl. C-3<br />
Pomorska A-1<br />
Pomorska F-3<br />
Poniatowskiego G-3<br />
Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1<br />
Portowa E-2<br />
Powstańców Śląskich A-5/6<br />
Powstańców Śląskich E-6<br />
Powstańców Warszawy pl. D-3<br />
Prądzyńskiego G-5, H-5<br />
Prądzyńskiego, Igancego,<br />
gen. D-5/6<br />
Pretficza E-6/7<br />
Probusa F-3<br />
Probusa Henryka B-1<br />
Prosta E-5<br />
Prusa C/D-1<br />
Prusa G-3, H-3<br />
Przejście Garncarskie A/B-3<br />
Przejście Żelaźnicze A/B-3<br />
Przeskok D-1<br />
Przeskok G-3<br />
Ptasia F-3<br />
Psie Budy A-3<br />
Psie Budy F-4<br />
Pszenna E-5<br />
Pułaskiego G-5/6<br />
Pułaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6<br />
Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty<br />
C/D-3<br />
Rakowiecka I-5/6<br />
Reja H-3/4<br />
Rejtana B-5<br />
Rejtana F-5<br />
Reymonta F-2<br />
Roentgena H-3/4<br />
Roosevelta G-2/3<br />
Rostafińskiego B-1<br />
Rostafińskiego F-3<br />
Rozbrat H-3<br />
Ruska A-3<br />
Ruska E-4, F-4<br />
Rybacka E-4<br />
Rydygiera B-1<br />
Rydygiera F-3<br />
Rychtalska G-2<br />
Rynek A-3<br />
Rynek F-4<br />
Rzeźnicza A-2/3<br />
Rzeźnicza F-4<br />
Sądowa E-5<br />
Siemieńskiego F-2<br />
Sienkiewicza C/D-1<br />
Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3<br />
Sikorskiego E-4<br />
Skargi F-5<br />
Skargi, ks. B-4<br />
Składowa A-1<br />
Składowa F-3<br />
Skwerowa A-6<br />
Ślężna A/B-6<br />
Słodowa C-2<br />
Słowackiego, al. C/D-3<br />
Słowackiego, wybrzeże D-3/4<br />
Słowiańska G-2<br />
Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4<br />
Śniadeckich I-3<br />
Solny, pl. A-3<br />
Sopocka H-3, I-3<br />
Srocza F-3<br />
Środkowa E-4<br />
Śrutowa B-1<br />
Staromłyńska C-2<br />
Stawowa B-5<br />
Strażnicza A/B-2<br />
Stysia E-5<br />
Sucha B/C-6<br />
Sucha F-6, G-6<br />
Sudecka E-7<br />
Sukiennice A/B-3<br />
Św. Anny F-3, G-3<br />
Św. Antoniego E-4, F-4<br />
Św. Doroty F-4/5<br />
Św. Ducha C-2<br />
Św. Ducha G-4<br />
Św. Jadwigi G-3/4<br />
Św. Józefa G-4<br />
Św. Katarzyny F-4, G-4<br />
Św. Mikołaja E-4, F-4<br />
Św. Wincentego F-2/3<br />
Świdnicka A/B-3/5<br />
Świdnicka F-5<br />
Świebodzka E-5<br />
Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2<br />
Świętokrzyska G-3<br />
Świstackiego D-6<br />
Świstackiego G-5/6<br />
Swobodna A-6<br />
Swobodna E-5, F-5/6<br />
Szajnochy A-3<br />
Szajnochy F-4<br />
Szarzyńskiego H-3<br />
Szczepińska E-4<br />
Szczytnicka D-2<br />
Szczytnicka G-4, H-4<br />
Szewska B-2/4<br />
Teatralna B-4<br />
Teatralna F-5<br />
Teatralny, pl. A-4<br />
Traugutta C/D-4/5<br />
Traugutta G-5, H-5<br />
Trzebnicka B-1<br />
Trzebnicka F-2/3<br />
Ukryta H-3<br />
Uniwersytecka B-2<br />
Uniwersytecka F-4<br />
Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2<br />
Ustronie G-2<br />
Walecznych H-3<br />
Walońska D-4<br />
Walońska G-5<br />
Warzywnicza C-1<br />
Wąska A/B-1<br />
Wesoła F-6<br />
Widok B-4<br />
Widok F-4/5<br />
Więckowskiego H-5/6<br />
Wieczysta F-7, G-7<br />
Wierzbowa B-4<br />
Wierzbowa F-4/5<br />
Więzienna B-2<br />
Więzienna F-4<br />
Wita Stwosza B-3<br />
Wita Stwosza F-4<br />
Wita, św. B-3<br />
Witolda, ks. A/B-2<br />
Władysława Łokietka F-3<br />
Włodkowica E-4<br />
Wodna B-2<br />
Wolności, pl. A-4<br />
Worcella C/D-4/5<br />
Worcella G-5<br />
Wróblewskiego, pl. D-4<br />
Wrocławczyka H-4<br />
Wybrzeże Conrada-<br />
Korzeniowskiego F-2<br />
Wybrzeże Słowackiego<br />
G-4, 5, H-4<br />
Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego H-4<br />
Wygodna G-2<br />
Wyspa C-2<br />
Wyszyńskiego, kard. D-1/2<br />
Zachodnia E-3<br />
Zakładowa F-2, G-2<br />
Zaolziańska A-6<br />
Zaolziańska F-6<br />
Zapolskiej A-5<br />
Zapolskiej F-5<br />
Zaporoska E-5/6<br />
Zaułek Wolski A-5<br />
Żeromskiego D-1<br />
Zgodna H-5<br />
Zielińskiego E-5/6<br />
Żiżki E-3<br />
Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2<br />
Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3<br />
Żytnia E-5<br />
WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS<br />
Absynt Hostel 30<br />
Akira Bed & Breakfast 28<br />
Apartamenty Przyjazne<br />
Lokum 29<br />
Art Apart 29<br />
Art Hotel 23<br />
Avantgarde 30<br />
Best Western Prima 23<br />
Boogie 30<br />
Campanile Wrocław Stare<br />
Miasto 26<br />
Centrum Dikul 26<br />
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast<br />
28<br />
Duet 26<br />
Dwór Polski 23<br />
Europejski 26<br />
Europeum 26<br />
Exclusive Apartments 29<br />
Hotel Jana Pawła II 24<br />
Hotel Orbis Wrocław 24<br />
HP Park Plaza 24<br />
Chopper Hostel 30<br />
Ibis Budget 28<br />
Ibis Budget Wrocław<br />
Stadion 28<br />
Leoapart 29<br />
Marshal 26<br />
Mercure Panorama 24<br />
Mleczarnia 31<br />
Monopol (Hotele Likus) 22<br />
Moon Hostel 31<br />
Novotel 26<br />
Park Hotel Diament<br />
Wrocław 24<br />
Patio 26<br />
Platinum Palace 22<br />
Polonia 26<br />
PURO Hotel Wrocław 24<br />
Quality System Hotel<br />
Wrocław 26<br />
Qubus Hotel Wrocław 25<br />
Radisson Blu 22<br />
Scandic Wrocław 25<br />
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town<br />
23<br />
The Granary La Suite Hotel<br />
Wroclaw City Center 23<br />
The One Hostel 31<br />
Tumski 26<br />
U Szermierzy 28<br />
Wratislavia 31<br />
Wrocław Capital<br />
Apartments 29<br />
Akropol Na Solnym 33<br />
Akropolis 33<br />
Amalfi 39<br />
America Bar & Grill 32<br />
Aquarelle 34<br />
Armine 32<br />
Art Restauracja i<br />
Kawiarnia 45<br />
Barka Tumska 34<br />
Bernard 34<br />
Bierhalle 34<br />
BLT & Flatbreads 34<br />
Brasserie 27 36<br />
Cantina 39<br />
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria<br />
40<br />
Casa Latina 43<br />
Cegielnia 36<br />
Cesarsko-Królewska 36<br />
Cynamon 36<br />
Da Andrea 40<br />
Darea Sushi 41<br />
Dwór Polski 45<br />
Gallo Nero Grande 40<br />
Gospoda Wrocławska 46<br />
Greco 33<br />
Green Way 49<br />
Chatka Przy Jatkach 45<br />
il Gusto 40<br />
Il Peperoncino 40<br />
Jacek i Agatka 46<br />
JaDka 46<br />
Karczma Lwowska 46<br />
Kuchnia 36<br />
Kuchnia Marche 34<br />
Kurna Chata 46<br />
La Maddalena 43<br />
La Scala 40<br />
La Vie En Rose 32<br />
Le Bistrot Parisien 32<br />
Lwia Brama 36<br />
Machina Organika 49<br />
Marina 37<br />
Masala <strong>In</strong>dian Restaurant<br />
33<br />
Mexico Bar 44<br />
Miś 46<br />
Misz Masz 46<br />
Mosaiq Restaurant & Wine<br />
Lounge 37<br />
Multifood STP 34<br />
Novocaina 41<br />
Ohh! Sushi 42<br />
Pergola Bistro 37<br />
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 46<br />
Piramida 45<br />
LISTINGS INDEX 97<br />
Symbol Key<br />
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />
O Casino H Conference facilities<br />
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled<br />
R <strong>In</strong>ternet L Guarded parking<br />
F Fitness centre G No smoking<br />
K Restaurant X Smoking room available<br />
D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />
E Live music W Wi-Fi<br />
6 Animal friendly S Take away<br />
I Fireplace J Old Town location<br />
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery<br />
Pita Pan 34<br />
Piwnica Świdnicka 48<br />
Pod Fredrą 48<br />
Pod Gryfami 48<br />
Pod Papugami 37<br />
Pod Złotym Psem 37<br />
Przystań 38<br />
Quchnia Polska 48<br />
Quorematto 41<br />
Restauracja Acquario 43<br />
Restauracja Monopol 48<br />
Restauracja Patio 38<br />
Ristorante Convivio 41<br />
Rodeo Grill Steak House<br />
32<br />
Sakana 42<br />
Sarah 42<br />
Soho 38<br />
Sphinx 45<br />
Spice <strong>In</strong>dia 33<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com<br />
September - December 2012
98<br />
LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX<br />
Spinacz 38<br />
Splendido 43<br />
Sushi 77 42<br />
Szajnochy 11 42<br />
Taverna Espaniola 49<br />
The Mexican 44<br />
Va Bene Trattoria 41<br />
Vega 49<br />
Vincent 38<br />
Wieża Ciśnień 39<br />
Złe Mięso 49<br />
Złota 39<br />
CAFÉS<br />
Afryka Coffee Tea House<br />
50<br />
Cafe Bar Monopol 50<br />
Cafe de France 50<br />
Central Cafe 50<br />
Cocofli 50<br />
Coffee Planet 50<br />
Czekoladziarnia 50<br />
Falanster 50<br />
Fika Cafe & Drink Bar 51<br />
Frankie's 50<br />
Chocoffee 50<br />
Kalaczakra 51<br />
Kawiarnia Literatka 51<br />
Milano Piu 51<br />
Monsieur Cafe 51<br />
Muffiniarnia 51<br />
Sufi Cafe 51<br />
NIGHTLIFE<br />
Alive 55<br />
Antidotum 57<br />
Art Restauracja i<br />
Kawiarnia 53<br />
Bed Club 57<br />
Bernard 53<br />
Bezsenność 57<br />
Bierhalle 54<br />
BLT & Flatbreads 53<br />
Cafe de France 53<br />
Casa de la Musica 52<br />
Collosseum Jazz Caffe 54<br />
Domówka 57<br />
Eter Club 55<br />
Firlej 55<br />
Graciarnia Pub 52<br />
Guinness 52<br />
Cherry Club 57<br />
Chopper Bar 52<br />
il Gusto 53<br />
<strong>In</strong>stytut 58<br />
Jazzda 58<br />
John Bull Pub 53<br />
Kalambur 58<br />
Kredance 53<br />
Kultowa 53<br />
Mañana Cafe 58<br />
Mleczarnia 53<br />
Mleczarnia 54<br />
Moloco 53<br />
Nagi Kamerdyner 57<br />
Niebo 54<br />
Nietota 58<br />
Niskie Łąki 54<br />
Obsesja 58<br />
Od Zmierzchu Do Świtu 55<br />
Paparazzi 54<br />
Pasja 58<br />
Pociąg 54<br />
Pod Papugami 55<br />
PRL 58<br />
Pruderia 59<br />
Przedwojenna 57<br />
Features <strong>In</strong>dex<br />
Pub Pod Zielonym<br />
Kogutem 55<br />
Puzzle Klub 58<br />
Ragtime 54<br />
Salvador 55<br />
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej<br />
57<br />
Schody Donikąd 55<br />
Speakeasy 55<br />
Spiż Brewery 54<br />
Stardust 59<br />
Strefa Zero (Laki Zaki) 56<br />
Synergia 59<br />
Szajba 56<br />
Teatr Klub 59<br />
The Winners Pub 56<br />
Włodkowica 21 56<br />
Złota 53<br />
Accommodation at a Glance 22<br />
All Saint's Day 65<br />
Breakfast 53<br />
Currency Exchange 89<br />
Dining at a Glance 32<br />
Edith Stein 30<br />
Facts & Figures 14<br />
Gross-Rosen 6<br />
Have <strong>Your</strong> Say 49<br />
Karl Denke 24<br />
Language Smarts 16<br />
Live Music 55<br />
Market Values 15<br />
Max Berg 81<br />
Milk Bars 46<br />
Nightlife at a Glance 52<br />
Partisan Hill 66<br />
Polish Food 47<br />
Polish Friends of Beer Party 56<br />
Polish Name Days (Imieniny) 22<br />
Quick Currency Convertor 15<br />
Quick Eats 34<br />
Raclawice Panorama 64<br />
Smoking 52<br />
So Where Exactly Am I? 60<br />
Stare Jatki 64<br />
The Maluch 25<br />
The Ossolineum 66<br />
Tipping Tribulations 33<br />
Water Tower 39<br />
Wrocław Historical Timeline 61<br />
Wroclaw University 69<br />
Zakąski Przekąski 57<br />
Zbibniew Cybulski 44<br />
Wrocław <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> wroclaw.inyourpocket.com