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RIJEKA
A haven for health
tourism
State of art private clinics in
dentistry, aesthetic surgery,
wellness...
City of culture
From arty to urban, traditional
to contemporary
Summer S 2012

Contents
Introducing Rijeka 5
Get to know our fair city
Arriving in Rijeka 6
Lost? Help is at hand.
Basics 8
Things you just need to know
Culture & Events 9
Go crazy!
Where to stay 15
Wherever you lay your hat...
Restaurants 19
For the gourmet that lies within
Cafés 23
Sipping Mediterranean style
Nightlife 24
Because you’re just so groovy
What to see 26
All the sights you shouldn’t miss
Opatija 36
Joy in Opatija
Is there anything nicer than the sensation of sun-warmed
stones on your skin? Photo by Mile Franjić
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
CONTENTS
The play Krletka (“Cage”) is sure to set the stage alight at
the Opatija Summer Festival
Mail & Phones 39
It’s good to talk
Getting around 40
Transport map 41
Diving in the Adriatic 43
This issues special feature
Shopping 45
Helping you get rid of that extra cash
Lifestyle Directory 47
The most essential support
Business Directory 48
Become a millionaire in no time
Health Tourism 49
This issue‘s special feature
Kvarner 58
Find the best beaches of all
Maps & Index
Street index 62
City centre map 62
City map 64
County map 67
Summer 2012
3

4 FOREWORD
What comes to your mind when you think of a holiday in
Croatia? If you’re from the English-speaking world, probably
Dubrovnik or somewhere down there in the south, while if
you’re from Germany or Italy there’s a good chance you’ll also
be in on the charms of Istria to the north. Somehow, the part
of the coast in between, called Kvarner, has been forgotten,
and its capital Rijeka relegated to the status of a transit point.
Many people know about the floral playground of Opatija,
Rijeka’s elegant neighbour, as the crowds that gather there
testify. But how about Cres? Vrbnik? Here’s something
we could call a best-kept secret. All these years of being
overlooked have allowed such places to retain their charm,
and now they are being brought into a new era of tourism in
a way that avoids the concrete and commercialism that is
the fate of so many seaside towns.
The entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become
somewhat of a health destination due to its location, flora
and fauna, sea breeze air and serene natural surroundings. A
trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whislt
also seeking specific medial treatments is rapidly growing.
Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art
clinics in dentistry, aesthetic surgery, allergic, therapeutic,
and wellness treatments that are second to none and highly
recommended.
Adventure enthusiasts can take the plunge and head out to
the reefs and sites dedicated to all forms of scuba diving. Our
huge special gives you an insight on the who, what and where
of scuba diving. Whether you’re a beginner or advanced,
certified instructors will adhere to your every need. Choose
from coral sites, ship wrecks, and deep dives to night dives,
an underwater voyage slash venture awaits you.
We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has
to offer, and be inspired to spend a few days here exploring.
And we hope that our tips for places to visit in Kvarner will
allow you to enjoy the sparkling blue seas, the vistas, the
hidden oases and the hospitality of the Kvarner region at
its very best.
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Valić
Layout & Design Marko Sirovina,
Gordan Karabogdan
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Rijeka, rijeka.photonet.hr
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A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from
Italy, you’ll have a tough time finding your way unless you
have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of
Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but
“Fiume” – which means “river” in Italian. And guess what
“rijeka” means in Croatian? River.
Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the
city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which
the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka
itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the
reasons why this area was settled before Roman times –
both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the
Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors.
What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka
bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely
central to the personality and existence of Rijeka – bright,
refreshing, life-giving and always moving on.
Market values
Compare the list of daily necessities:
1kg of beef 65kn €8.85
10 eggs 12kn €1.63
McDonald‘s Big Mac 17,50kn €2.32
Loaf of white bread 7kn €0.95
Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 5kn €0.68
20 Marlboros 22kn €2.99
Exchange rates (as of 12. 06. 2012):
US$1 = 5,08kn € 1 =7,5kn
� Rijeka
telephone code is +385-51
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
INTRODUCING RIJEKA
Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the
area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant
settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to
defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out
the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most
important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of
“Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies.
The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name
Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint.
In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts
from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of
the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan,
and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka
– they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and
fortifications on the coastline, as well as on Krk island itself.
Over the centuries that followed, various European powers
gained influence over Rijeka and its surroundings, and each
left its mark. One of the most influential for the development
of the city was the Austrian period, and many of Rijeka’s
great buildings were designed by the same people that
built the cities of that empire. Rijeka was connected to
Vienna and Budapest by road and rail, and proclaimed a
free port. These transport links contributed massively to
the development of Rijeka as an industrial city. The city’s
fortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reintegration
into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one
of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third
biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split.
Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on
the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks
from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the
quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto
the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of
Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the
European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to
their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest
ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood
for the city – the first, of course, is water itself.
Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is
cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it
as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history
of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And
it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover.
Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted
with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands.
Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast
road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles.
Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different,
but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that
returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs
us of day by day.
Karolina Riječka
If you notice a lot of references to a certain Karolina
when you’re in Rijeka, that’s because she’s a much-loved
historical figure from the town. Not without good reason
– there’s nothing better than a strong woman, and more
courageous than this you could not find. During the
Napoleonic wars, a British squadron attacked Rijeka to
wrest it from the French, but started a campaign of plunder
and torching. Brave (and pretty) Karolina approached the
British squadron leader and begged him to spare Rijeka’s
people – and, amazingly, he did. Wow, and they didn’t
even have Max Factor in those days. Apparently only
one cannonball was fired – the one you see embedded
in the wall of St Vitus’ Cathedral. Enjoy a drink in the
beautiful Karolina bar on Rijeka’s quayside, where you’ll
see pictures of Karolina of Rijeka, or try the light, fluffy
Karolina cake, a speciality of the Cont patisserie.
Summer 2012
5

6 ARRIVING IN RIJEKA
Tourist information
�
Kvarner County Tourism Office N.Tesle
2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 29 88, fax
(+385-51) 27 29 09, kvarner@kvarner.hr,
www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Kvarner Info - The Gateway to the Adriatic
Čikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33, info@
kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
June 18 - October Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Rijeka Tourist Board D-2, Užarska
14, tel. (+385-51) 31 57 10, www.
tz-rijeka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information Center D-2, Korzo 33a, tel.
(+385-51) 33 58 82. Moving to the new address Korzo
14 as of July. Tel. no. and opening hours as before. Q
June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
-14:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat
08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.
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By boat
A seafaring city since before the Romans set foot on these
lands, an arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the
grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up
the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel.
You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local
bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see
the map of the city centre at the back of this guide.
You can buy tickets for Jadrolinija ferries at the Jadrolinija
office and at European travel agencies using the START
booking system.
Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. 21
14 44 - Ticket sales and exchange bureau. Call 060 32 13
21 for the automated timetable service. Hypo Bank cash
machine outside. Timetable in the window. June - September
30 Open Mon, Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. October - May 31
Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
By bus
Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni
kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has
everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method
of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively
quick and usually comfortable. Ticket office: open 05:30
- 21:00, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2
to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside
opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during
summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money:
there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the
big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel.
33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is
open 06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station, cost 2kn,
pissoir 1kn. Public phones are on the platforms. Shops and
cafes: Several snack bars, news kiosks and mini-markets
work all night. There are a few cafes where you can refresh
body and soul when you arrive. Getting to town: See the
waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind
the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the
station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check
Getting around for other taxi companies).
By car
From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume”
and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia
and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead
you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are
a good orientation point for the centre.
From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via
Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica.
You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops
directly down into Rijeka.
From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from
Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge
at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 60kn in one direction,
payable in most currencies and credit cards. (Prices are
expected to rise by 15% as of 1 June).
From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from
Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast
road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but
if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.
Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas
and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the
latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile
Club website at www.hak.hr.
By plane
Rijeka Airport-Zračna luka Rijeka, Hamec 1, Omišalj tel.
84 20 40, 060 30 03 01, www.rijeka-airport.hr; information@
rijeka-airport.hr
Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island
serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has
a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a
small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones,
a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrolej buses
take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for
50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis
await your hailing outside the airport.
By train
Rijeka Train Station - Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka A-2,
Trg kralja Tomislava 1, National info line: 060 333 444 www.
hznet.hr. Rijeka’s train station is in a lovely old Hungarian
style building. It has all the basic services you need. Train
services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive
way to travel. The new HZ (Croatian Railways) website has
good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and
connections for domestic and international routes.
Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office
including the international (međunarodni) window,open
09:10 - 20:40 and domestic, open 05:10 - 17:10,
Fri and the day before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00.
You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it’s
best to reserve in advance for international journeys.
Changing money: There’s a cash machine en route to the
Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the
station building . There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikole
Tesle Street opposite. Left luggage: Lockers; 04:00 - 23:00,
cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and
clean. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1.
Shops and cafes: There are a couple of newsstands by
the entrance.
Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in
front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or
32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes
you to Opatija. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station,
or call (051-if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check
Getting around for other cab companies).
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Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

ŠTEDNJA SE ISPLATI.
MUDRO UOKVIRENA ŠTEDNJA.
GROWING YOUR MONEY.
WISELY STRUCTURED SAVINGS.
ARRIVING IN RIJEKA
SPAREN LOHNT SICH.
KLUG GESTALTETES SPARBUCH.
IL RISPARMIO CONVIENE.
RISPARMI BEN STRUTTURATI.
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5,00%
EUR

8 BASICS
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats,
sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you
will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep your
receipts (500kn minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify
for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. To breeze
through customs you can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1
litre of strong alcohol, plus 2 litres of wine and 2 litres of
dessert wine or champagne. There are no limits on export;
however it does depend on the country you’re flying into
from Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive
export approval before departure. Export approval is issued
by the conservatory department of the Ministry of Culture
at Užarska 26 (D-2, Open 09:00 - 13:00, tel.+385 - 51
31 13 00). For further details www.carina.hr.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50Hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Religion
These days Croatia is fair ly mono tone in re li gious terms. Having
al ways ex ist ed on the frontiers of three religions; Cath o lic,
Orthodox and Mus lim; time was that one could find a right old
mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the pop ula
tion has be come over whelm ing ly Cath o lic with the 2001 Census
re cord ing 87.83% as loyal to Rome.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612
Rijeka (April 2011): 135,385
Territory Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro,
Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy.
Rijeka is capital of the Primorska-Goranska županija
“Littoral and Highlands County”, which encompasses
the Opatija Riviera to the west, the coast to the east
including Novi Vinodolski, a mountainous hinterland and
the islands as far south as Ilovik. This all covers an area
of 3,582km2 on land; 4,398.64km2 of sea, the coastline
is 1,065km long and the highest point is the Kula peak
of Bjelolasica, the mountain where the Croatian ski team
train, which stands at a proud 1,534m.
Climate Sub-Mediterranean on the coast; temperate
continental to mountainous.
Local time Croatia is part of the Central European Time
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Rijeka it is 12:00 in
Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Climate
Temperature, °C
30
20
10
0
Rainfall, mm
100
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com
-10
-20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies to
you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5% applies
to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to
others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given
the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably
save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more
people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are
common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars
have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on
secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines
are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you
will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration
papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always
keep them with you.
Safety
You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison
with most Western European cities, even at night. Although
there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep
a sensible eye on your personal belongings.
Toilets
Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer
disabled access.
Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova – by
the big church Gospe Lurdske.
Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the
Delta – in the park over the modern bridge.
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
National holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
January 6 Epiphany
April 8 Easter
April 9 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers' Day
June 7 Corpus Christi
June 22 Anti Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
August 15 Feast of the Assumption
October 8 Independence Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25 Christmas
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
75
50
25
0

Exhibitions
15.04 Sunday - 15.12 Saturday
Titanic - Carpathia - Rijeka
D-1, The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian
Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, www.ppmhp.hr. Ahoy matey! Jump
aboard and visit this exhibition pertaining to Croatian seamen
and passengers on the ships Titanic and Carpathia. It details
the fate of the victims’ families and the rare survivors of the
tragedy who had come from Croatia; and in doing so, links
these historical moments to our shores.
18.05 Friday - 05.09 Wednesday
The Rijeka Port - Its history, development
and traffic
D-1, The Museum of the City of Rijeka, Muzejski trg
1/1, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. This exhibition is a dedication
to the Rijeka Port as it details, portrays and analyses every
historical development of this city landmark since 1719.
From early settlements to today, the Port has changed faces
many times and thanks to the works of two designers and
photographers, an added artistic exhibit ‘Impressions’ also
pays tribute to the Rijeka Port.
Cinemas
Art-kino Croatia A-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-51)
32 32 61, info@art-kino.org, www.art-kino.org. Q
Box office Open an hour before the first show.
CineStar S-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower
Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitzcinestar.hr.
Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor
of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run
international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the
cinema are ‘love seats’ - double seats undivided by arm
rests which are perfect for canoodling couples. Q Box
office open an hour before the first projection.
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rijeka.inyourpocket.com
CULTURE & EVENTS
J.Poirot, The play Krletka (“Cage”) at the Opatija Summer Festival, 26.06
Opera & Ballet
26.06 Tuesday
The Fallen Woman (La Traviata)
S-3, CineStar, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower
Center), www.blitz-cinestar.hr. A three act opera by
Giuseppe Verdi where the love between the courtesan
Violetta Valery and Alfredo Germont is tampered with by
outside forces. Do their hearts remain true? Hear ‘Sempre
Libera’ (Always free) and other Verdi classics live from Milan
at Cinestar. Q Starts at 20:00.
Special events
01.06 Friday - 07.09 Friday
Kvarner Festival 2012
Opatija, www.festivalkvarner.com. Warm the cockles
of your heart with this music festival in Opatija. Divided into
two parts; the first (01.06 - 10.06) is dedicated to concerts
with the likes of Jordi Savall and Nigel Kennedy. Early
music ensembles include Accordone and L’Arpeggiata’ as
well as virtuosos Albena Danailova and Monike Leskovar.
The September (01.09 - 07.09) edition has more of an
international opera flavour with Haydn’s Armida performed
by the Purpur European Orchestra on top of Ensemble Berlin
who will carry out a classical set.
19.06 Tuesday - 24.07 Tuesday
Rijeka Summer Nights
tel. (+385-51) 35 59 24, info@rijeckeljetnenoci.com,
www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com. Performances, philharmonics,
film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music
ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste
buds. Premieres include the musical ‘Fiddler on the Roof’ by
Jerry Bock, the comedy ‘Mirandolina’ and ‘Do Do Land’ by the
Spanish ensemble ‘Puja’. Escape the heat and chill amidst
a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for
relaxation. Q Tickets 20 - 345kn available at the Croatian
National Theatre Box Office, Verdieva 5a, (+385-51) 33 71
14, blagajna@hnk-zajc.hr, Tourist Information Centre, Korzo
14 (+385-51)35 53 82 and www.kulturaplus.com.
Summer 2012
9

10 CULTURE & EVENTS
Tereza Kesovija, Festival Opatija
23.06 Saturday - 08.09 Saturday
Summer on Gradina
info@bascinskiglasi.hr, www.ljetonagradini.com.
Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at
the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. The events runs
the entire summer where visiors surcum to the amazing
ancient surroundings that encompass music, drama, art
and dance across all genres of entertainment; add to that
the spectacular view overlooking the lights of the Kvarner
Riviera, it’s truly essential! The programme is a Croatian
cultural manifestation with stars of the music scene such as
Massimo, Vanna, Adastra, Hari Rončević, various klape acts
(a capella singers) and many others mixed in with theatre
and comedy. Internatonal performers are also scheduled so
it is best to keep an eye on the timetable. Inquire for prices
as some events are free whilst prices for other events cost
between 30 and 120 kn. Tickets can be purchased at the
‘Summer on Gradina’ promo stand which is in front of the
post-office building on Korzo, or from the Gradina café bar, the
Tourist information centre on Korzo, and other city spots. Buy
via the net on www.kulturaplus.com or for more information
on other ticket stores, visit www.ljetonagradini.com.
29.06 Friday - 01.07 Sunday
Retro Music Festival
Novi Vinodolski. Get ready to rock around the clock! Novi
Vinodolski turns retro with the first edition of this festival which
takes you back to the 1950s and the time of rock n roll. You’ll
think you’re time warped with live rockabilly musicians, DJs, an
expo of old timers, and retro style fashion shows. So whack
on some hair gel, retro clothes and swing on in.
www.inyourpocket.com
06.07 Friday - 08.07 Sunday
Liburnia Jazz Festival
Opatija, www.liburniajazz.hr. The city of Opatija and its
surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you
stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some
trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the
promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 16
concerts and many more performers, you have every reason
to jazz it up!
06.07 Fiday
Elvis Stanić Group feat Oliver Dragojević
Summer stage, Opatija. No doubt one of Croatia’s most
loved vocalists who continues to delight audiences with his
astounding voice and sublime instrumental talent. Expect
a few sing alongs and heart warming ballads. Q Concert
starts at 21:00
20.07 Friday - 21.07 Saturday
Hartera8 Festival
Ex Paper Factory, Ružićeva bb, www.hartera.com. An
old torn down paper factory has become home to one of the
top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay tuned for
line up details as amazing performers from all over the world
have helped create an amazing ambience and reputation
that continues to grow.
Palach Gallery
C-2, Kružna 8, palach.galerija@gmail.com.
Oliver Dragojević
18. 05 Friday - 07. 06 Thursday
Group Gluteus (Luka Hrgović, Miran Šabić, Stipan Tadić)
Various techniques.
08.06 Friday - 21.06 Thursday
Ivona Verbanac - Deep Blue
22.06 Friday - 05.07 Thursday
Tina Špralja - Comic.
Illustrations & breakdance performance.
06.07 Friday - 20.07 Friday
Hrvoje Pende, Mirjan Čubrić - Polis.
Photo exibition
07.09 Friday - 21.09 Friday
Gregor Bogdanović - Lucidus et Umbra.
Photo exibition
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

12 CULTURE & EVENTS
Culture Centres
Molekula F-2, Delta 5/1, su.molekula@gmail.com,
www.molekula.org.
Sušak House of Culture (Kulturni Dom Sušak)
F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 35 02.
Comfy medium-sized venue for plays, modern dance and
the occasional art-film season. There’s a ground-floor
cafe and contemporary art gallery too.
06.08 Monday - 17.08 Friday
The Royal Conservatory of Scotland summer
acting course in Rijeka
F-2, HKD Teatar, Strossmayerova 1, www.rcs.ac.uk.
Fancy a career in acting, the Royal Conservatory of Scotland
is holding a summer acting course outside home soil with
auditions beginning in April. Those seriously seeking the
spotlight can gain 10 days of indispensable skill development
in the field.
10.08 Friday - 11.08 Saturday
Rab Summer Festival
The island of Rab becomes home to some of the best world
DJs as well as stars of the local music scene. The buzz around
the place heightens, tourists pack in and concerts are held
till the morning hours. The perfect way to cap off a holiday!
28.08 Tuesday - 01.09 Saturday
Vocal Marathon 2012
www.vocalmarathon.com. ‘Music without music,’ hmmm…
How so? This is a cappella music, pure vocals that create
the sound you hear. There are awards up for grabs with 3
competition categories and a two day creative workshop on
singing/song writing. Local and European choirs are set to
produce some enchanting music to your ears.
Marko Tolja, Studio Maraton, photo by Siniša Gulić
Palach Gallery
Klapa Sol
29.08 Wednesday - 01.09 Saturday
The 10th Liburnia Film Festival
Ičići port, info@liburniafilmfestival.com, www.
liburniafilmfestival.com. One festival that uncovers a huge
slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or
so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to the Ičići port near Opatija
last year to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and
concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by
the jury and audience alike!
Galleries
Atelier Paladin F-1, Ružićeva 26c, tel. (+385-) 091 563
46 98, atelierpaladin@yahoo.it. The exhibition space of the
graphic artist, painter and illustrator Bruno Paladin, whose
works can be found in many collections of contemporary art
in Croatia and around the world. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
www.inyourpocket.com
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

14 CULTURE & EVENTS
Rijeka Summer Nights
Filodrammatica D-2, Korzo 28/I, jolanda.todorovic@
rijeka.hr. An exhibition space in the beautiful building on
Korzo where you’ll also find the Hemingway bar. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Free admission.
Grad E-1, Ivana Grohovca 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 28 41,
galerija.grad@ri.htnet.hr. A permanent exhibition of works
by Croatian academic painters and sculptors. Q Open
09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Juraj Klović E-2, Matije Gupca 4a, tel. (+385-51) 33
24 94, hdlur@ri.t-com.hr, www.hdlu-rijeka.hr. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Cinemas
Astronomical Center
Art-kino Croatia A-2, Krešimirova 2, tel. (+385-51)
32 32 61, info@art-kino.org, www.art-kino.org. Q
Box office Open an hour before the first show.
CineStar S-3, Ul.Janka Polića Kamova 81a (Tower
Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitzcinestar.hr.
Eight-screen multiplex on the top floor
of the Tower Center shopping mall, showing first-run
international flicks. About one fifth of the seats in the
cinema are ‘love seats’ - double seats undivided by arm
rests which are perfect for canoodling couples. Q Box
office open an hour before the first projection.
Astronomical Center
The Rijeka Astronomical Center Sveti Križ 33,
www.rijekasport.hr. 17.07 Tuesday - 21.07 Saturday
Let gravity keep you grounded as the Rijeka Astronomy
Centre maintains its regular programme and also includes
a programme for foreign tourists. A summer special this
year includes a live presentation relating to the landing
of the first man on the Moon.
August
See a live presentation on the Perseid Meteor Shower,
also known as ‘the tears of Saint Lawrence’.
September
To keep things warm, a new live presentation on the
topic of the Sun for pre-school and school students is
on. Rumour has it that classical music concerts are also
in the plans.
Kortil F-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70
65/(+385-51) 37 70 51, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr.
An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.
Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
Mali salon D-2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11,
mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. A great
exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and
Modern Art on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
O.K. Gallery F-1, Franje Račkog 24, tel. (+385-) 095
522 36 49, kunsgalerijaok@gmail.com. An exhibition
space in the K.U.N.S. (Artist’s Club on Sušak). Q Open during
exhibitions. Admission free.
Palach Gallery C-2, Kružna 8, palach.galerija@gmail.
com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Principij Gallery E-2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095
913 17 69, fotoklubrijeka@net.hr, www.fotoklubrijeka.
hr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Trsatska Gradina U-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel. (+385-
51) 21 77 14. Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska
Gradina. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Rinella Ivanković, Gallery Bruketa
Lost for words? Just click!
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka
Upmarket
Best Western Hotel Jadran S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije
46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/(+385-51) 49 40 11, fax
(+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@jadran-hoteli.hr, www.
jadran-hoteli.hr. Rijeka gets its first real seaside hotel back
after extensive renovation. The gorgeous period building
occupies its own beach in the Pećine neighbourhood, 1km
out of the centre (towards Split). It’s been brought up to 4 star
standard, and has a restaurant open to the public, conference
facilities and more. Q69 rooms (28 singles €97 - 114, 35
doubles €114 - 134, 3 triples €190, 1 suite €297, 2 Junior
Suite €170). PHARUIGBKW hhhh
Grand Hotel Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35
71 00, fax (+385-51) 33 59 69, bonavia@bonavia.hr,
www.bonavia.hr. The one to choose if you want luxury in
Rijeka itself. Right in the old town, in a 125 year-old building
renovated in 2000, it’s part of a luxury chain owned by Mr
Štrok, father of Vanya from designer duo Gharani Štrok. Pets
welcome free of charge. Q121 rooms (20 singles €130 -
150, 94 doubles €160 - 205, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental
apartment €650). PJHAR6FLGBKDW
hhhh
Mid range
Continental F-1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića
1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09,
kontinental@jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. This
grand Imperial building in the heart of Rijeka overlooks the
park by the river in the city centre. Rooms are decent rather
than luxurious. The coffee house does great cakes and has
a lovely terrace. Breakfast included. Q69 rooms (13 singles
€72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior
Suite €151). A6K hhh
Neboder F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49
31 40/(+385-51) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99,
neboder@jadran-hotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Recently
renovated from top to bottom, the Neboder offers small but
neat rooms with crisp lines, new carpets and fittings, and
just enough space to fit in a desk, a TV, and a tiny balcony.
Although at least one room on each floor faces inland, all the
others come with extravagant views of the sea, the port, and
central Rijeka’s rooftops. Built in the 1920s, the building itself
(Neboder means ‘skyscraper’) is something of a monument to
Croatian modern architecture. Q54 rooms (8 singles €63 -
68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). PJHA6ILGK hhh
Hostel
Youth hostel Rijeka R/S-3, Šetalište XIII.divizije
23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64
21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Rijeka’s clean and
cozy hostel opened in winter 2006 in a fully renovated,
fine old building in the genteel suburb of Pećine 15min
walk or a short bus ride from the centre of town. Super
accommodation, with a great restaurant area and TV
room, plus internet point. Prices are per person per
night. Q 62 dorm beds, 19.90 - 21.30€ per person.
TAGBKW
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Symbol key
Reserve a room at
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
D Sauna 6 Animal friendly
Opatija
Cream of the crop
Milenij Maršala Tita 109, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80
07, fax (+385-51) 27 80 21, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.
milenijhoteli.hr. Five star creature comforts in a splendid
pink villa (1900s) centrally located right by the town beach.
The Millennium is well known for its great wellness centre,
and its coffee house is a classy spot to enjoy kaffee und
kuchen. Q99 rooms (5 suites €305 - 477, 81 Standard
Rooms €178, 10 Superior Rooms €194, 3 Deluxe Rooms
€204). PTJHARUIFLEGBKDCwW
hhhhh
Mozart Maršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 82
60, fax (+385-51) 27 17 39, info@hotel-mozart.hr, www.
hotel-mozart.hr. Housed in a wonderful 100-year-old building
that retains much of its period splendour, the Mozart offers
bright, high-ceilinged rooms with all the creature comforts.
Muted colour schemes provide a soothing dose of style.
All rooms come with hardwood floors and balconies, while
apartments have canopied beds and whirlpool-style baths.
The bottom-floor wellness centre offers saunas, steam
baths, hydromassage and a host of beauty treatments in
a relaxing, intimate environment. Q29 rooms (26 doubles
€180 - 300, 2 Junior Suites €400, 1 Presidental Suite €600).
PZHAR6UIFLBKDwW hhhhh
Villa Adela Šetalište maršala Tita 47, Lovran, tel.
(+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, sales@
lovranske-vile.com, www.lovranske-vile.com. Tucked in a
cove in romantic Lovran and with beautiful gardens, the story
goes it was built (1905) as a love nest for a Lovran sea captain
and a Spanish singer. Intimate and and richly decorated,
it sleeps up to four. Breakfast not included. Q1 room (1
apartment €180 - 254). PTJA6ILGBW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Admiral Maršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71
04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.
hr, www.liburnia.hr. A great choice if you’re into sport -
the Admiral has a large and well equipped fitness centre
and two clean, good-sized pools (one indoor with warm sea
water), a marina and sailing club. Garage 60kn/day, pets
90kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change.
Q180 rooms (31 singles €65 - 105, 131 doubles €106
- 187, 6 suites €163 - 309, 12 Junior Suites €118 - 243).
PHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh
Summer 2012
15

16 WHERE TO STAY
Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@
liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. First opened in 1966, this
brash concrete-and-steel cube of a building seems decidedly
at odds with its belle-epoque surroundings. Ugly from the
outside it may be, but once you get inside the advantages
of modern functionalism soon become apparent. All the
rooms get a balcony with sweeping views, and the social
areas at ground-floor level have an expansive, open-plan
feel. Trendy modern artists decorated various parts of the
hotel - look out for the Zvonko Lončarić sea-creature mosaic
overlooking the indoor swimming pool. The newly-opened
wellness centre in the basement offers state-of-the-art
massage, aromatherapy and chocolate-bath facilities,
alongside saunas, steam baths and whirlpools. Prices are per
room and are subject to change. Q200 rooms (36 singles
€78 - 143, 108 doubles €125 - 260, 9 suites €178 - 309, 7
Family Rooms €138 - 270, 4 Executive Rooms €125 - 260,
16 Executive Suites €178 - 309, 20 Junior Suites €138 - 270).
PHAR6UIFLEGBKDCwW hhhhh
Design Hotel Astoria Ulica Maršala Tita 174, Opatija,
tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, fax (+385-51) 70 63 51, info@
hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. An uber-stylish
choice, offering neat, modern, design-conscious rooms in an
elegantly restored belle-epoque building. East-facing rooms
come with great views of Rijeka and the mountains inland. Top
floor apartments have the added advantages of hardwood
floors and a bathtub in the bathroom. Wireless internet
throughout for 50kn/24hr. Q50 rooms (46 singles €85 -
122, 46 doubles €116 - 162, 3 suites €222 - 257, 1 Junior
Suite €172 - 207). PTAR6UGBKW hhhh
Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel.
(+385-51) 71 90 00, fax (+385-51) 71 90 25, info@
hotel-adriatic.hr, www.hotel-adriatic.hr. Peacefully
located a 10-minute walk from the centre, you can choose
between renovated 4 star and simpler 3 star rooms, but all
guests get to enjoy the pool, natural rocky beach, 8th floor
sun terrace, sauna and other fitness and wellness facilities.
Prices are subject to change. Q307 rooms (126 singles
€80 - 120, 174 doubles €115 - 185, 7 suites €210 - 250).
POTHAR6ULEGBKDCW hhhh
Kristal Maršala Tita 135, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71
04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.
hr, www.liburnia.hr. Sensibly priced accommodation in a
spot where you can take advantage of the wellness facilities
in the nearby Grand Hotel Adriatic or Thalassotherapy centre.
Rooms are simple, and there’s a pleasant dining terrace
shaded with wisteria overlooking the hotel’s beach. Prices
are per room and are subject to change. Pets 90kn/day.
Q130 rooms (33 singles €52 - 95, 97 doubles €80 - 151).
PHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhh
Marina Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-
51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@
liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Set in the picturesque
fishing village of Mošćenička Draga, close to the centre
and the wonderfully clean pebble beach. It’s a smaller,
comfortable 60s-era hotel with an indoor pool, sauna
and diving facilities nearby. Prices are per room and are
subject to change. Q182 rooms (30 singles €68 - 111,
84 doubles €104 - 211, 68 Family Rooms €166 - 304).
PTHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh
Milenij Grand hotel 4 opatijska cvijeta Viktora Cara
Emina 6, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 07, fax (+385-
51) 27 80 21, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.
hr. A brand new complex of four buildings named after
the four flowers of Opatija - camellia, magnolia, melia and
wisteria. Multifunctional, both business travellers and souls
in search of bodily well-being will find all they need here.
Q248 rooms (229 doubles €168, 19 suites €278 - 350).
PTJHARIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh
Miramar Ive Kaline 11, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 28
00 00, fax (+385-51) 28 00 28, info@hotel-miramar.
info, www.hotel-miramar.info. With the turreted Villa
Neptune as its centrepiece, the Miramar reopened in Spring
2005 as a spectacular modern wellness hotel. Run by the
owner of the Salzburgerhof, voted best wellness hotel in
Austria - these people know what they’re doing. Q102
rooms (80 doubles €80 - 145, 4 suites €150 - 260, 3
apartments €340 - 480, 15 Junior Suites €130 - 165).
PZHAR6IFLEGBKDCwW hhhh
Park Maršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 70 62 00,
fax (+385-51) 29 37 82, info@hotelparklovran.hr, www.
hotelparklovran.hr. Delightful in duck-egg blue, this classic
waterfront villa in the centre of Lovran was renovated and
reopened in 2005, complete with restaurant, pool, wellness
and meeting facilities. One of the embarrasingly few Croatian
hotels that currently has disabled access to all communal
areas and some rooms. Prices are per person. Q54 rooms
(3 singles €58 - 88, 48 doubles €39 - 75, 3 apartments
€65 - 90). PTHARUFLGBKDCW hhhh
Savoy Maršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 05
00, fax (+385-51) 27 26 80, info@hotel-savoy.hr, www.
hotel-savoy.hr. Charming old seafront hotel dating from
1910 and fully restored in 2004. The neat and comfortable
rooms feature a reasonable amount of desk and storage
space. Ask for an east-facing room if you want a balcony
looking directly out onto the sea. ‘Superior’ doubles are
slightly more spacious than the standard rooms and offer the
added advantage of a full-sized tub in the bathroom. There’s
a pool with sun terrace, and wellness centre with weekend
programmes. Q32 rooms (2 singles €74 - 116, 20 doubles
€93 - 158, 2 suites €206 - 260, 8 Junior Suites €124 - 184).
POHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh
Villa Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-
51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@
liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Right on the water’s edge, the
Ambasador’s little sister is an agreeable older building, simply
and tastefully furnished, surrounded by trees and lawns. You
can use the Ambasador’s facilities, park your car and bring
your pets by arrangement for an extra charge. Prices are per
room and are subject to change. Q51 rooms (13 singles
€73 - 118, 24 doubles €114 - 216, 14 suites €163 - 333).
PHAR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh
Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel.
(+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, sales@
lovranske-vile.com, www.lovranske-vile.com. Absolutely
one of the prettiest villas and one of the few boutique hotels
on the entire Croatian coast, this place is out of this world:
the rooms, the restaurant, the garden, the pool and the
view are all utterly... gorgeous. Breakfast included. No pets.
Q6 rooms (6 singles €181 - 266, 6 doubles €226 - 332).
PJHALEGBKCW hhhh
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Old-school charm
Bristol Ulica Maršala Tita 108, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
70 63 00, fax (+385-51) 70 63 01, info@hotel-bristol.
hr, www.hotel-bristol.hr. This lovely old wedding-cake of
a villa has been renovated, but retains a hushed sense of
imperial grandeur, with clean lines and restrained colour.
There’s a Viennese coffee house, restaurant, wi-fi internet,
plus conference facilities for up to 130 with full a/v backup.
They have new Spa and Beauty zone (fitness, Whirlpool,
Steam bath, Sauna, treatments for women and for men).
Q78 rooms (2 singles €88 - 122, 64 doubles €123 -
167, 2 suites €237 - 277, 10 Junior Suites €187 - 227).
PTHAR6UFGBKDW hhhh
Imperial Maršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71
04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.
hr, www.liburnia.hr. In the heart of Opatija, close to the
park and the seafront, the Imperial has seen guests such
as Emperor Franz Joseph and Isadora Duncan - it was built
in 1885. Its period charm is updated with modern wellness
facilities. Prices are per room and are subject to change.
Q127 rooms (24 singles €42 - 82, 103 doubles €64 - 133).
PHA6IGBKW hhh
Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
27 13 79, fax (+385-51) 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston.
hr, www.villa-ariston.hr. In its heyday, the Kennedys
and Coco Chanel stayed at this villa, and happily it’s
been brought back to its former glory. The balconies and
the view are unsurpassed and the Presidential Suite is
splendour itself. The restaurant enjoys a great reputation.
Q10 rooms (2 singles €55 - 65, 6 doubles €89 - 110, 1
Presidential Suite €192 - 246, 1 Junior Suite €137 - 164).
PHAILGBK hhh
Mid-range
Istra Maršala Tita 143, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04
44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr,
www.liburnia.hr. On the seafront close to the centre and
the town beach, the Istra is well equipped for its class, with
an indoor swimming pool and a gym and wellness centre
close by. Room service (07:00 - 22:00) and all-inclusive
packages ensure you’ll never go hungry. Pets welcome,
70kn/day. Prices are per room and are subject to change.
Q130 rooms (18 singles €42 - 81, 112 doubles €64 - 130).
PTA6GBKCW hhh
Lovran Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-
51) 29 12 22, fax (+385-51) 29 24 67, office@hotellovran.hr,
www.hotel-lovran.hr. Two beautifully renovated
Habsburg villas in the heart of Lovran providing modern
comfort and period charm. There’s a bar, two restaurants,
business facilities and a staff who help you enjoy the sea,
the town and the surrounding countryside to the full. Q56
rooms (7 singles €39 - 56, 46 doubles €68 - 132, 3 suites
€130 - 165). PHA6D hhh
Mediteran Trg slobode 1, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-
51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@
liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Modern and simple, good
for families with kids, the location overlooking Mošćenička
Draga’s glorious beach couldn’t be better. You can use the
indoor pool and health centre at the nearby Marina, where
you can also organise diving in the pristine sea. Prices are per
room and are subject to change. Q69 rooms (3 singles €37 -
55, 66 doubles €54 - 101). PA6ILGBKW hhh
www.inyourpocket.com
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
WHERE TO STAY
Palace- Bellevue Maršala Tita 144/148, Opatija,
tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99,
reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Two connected
imperial buildings in the heart of Opatija. The stunning antique
interiors (renovated 2002) and reasonable prices are enough
reason to go; the heated seawater pool and sauna are the
cherry on the cake. Prices are per room and are subject to
change. Q205 rooms (41 singles €45 - 83, 164 doubles
€70 - 135). PTHA6IEGBKDCW hhh
Budget
Belvedere Ive Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04
44, fax (+3855-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.
hr, www.liburnia.hr. A little out of the centre in a lush,
forested park, the Belvedere has a private beach, swimming
pool and car park, and is right on the waterfront. It’s a quiet
spot if you need a little rest and recuperation. Prices subject
to change. Prices are per room and are subject to change.
Q66 rooms (13 singles €36 - 68, 53 doubles €56 - 109).
A6ILEGBKDCW hh
Opatija Trg Vladimira Gortana 2/1, Opatija, tel.
(+385-51) 27 13 88, fax (+385-51) 27 13 17, info@
hotel-opatija.hr, www.hotel-opatija.hr. A fantastic location
at the head of the beautiful park square in the very centre
of Opatija, the hotel has a beautiful big terrace and tennis
courts. The art nouveau interior features a lovely indoor pool,
sauna and massage. Rooms are more modestly decorated.
Q200 rooms (84 singles €43 - 64, 116 doubles €55 - 97).
PTHAR6LBKC hh
Villa Amalia Pava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel
Kvarner), tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71
03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. The
pleasant lemon-yellow Kvarner was the first hotel in Opatija,
while the Amalia annexe was an official residence of the
Habsburgs. The park location right on the seafront, period
furnishings, pools, sauna and massage centre make it a
great stay. Prices are per room and are subject to change.
Q31 rooms (1 single €33 - 53, 30 doubles €50 - 99).
HA6ILEGBKDCW hh
Camping
Autocamp Draga A. Slatina b.b., Mošćenićka Draga,
tel. (+385-51) 73 75 23, fax (+385-51) 73 73 39,
info@autocampdraga.com, www.autocampdraga.com.
The resort is a delightful haven of green with a sparkling
beach, and the camp site is as well-equipped as you could
wish - there’s even a night guard. Q Person / per day 38
- 54kn, Children 26 - 37kn, Tent 30 - 37kn, Car 24 - 37kn,
Accomodation tax 3,5 - 7kn. hhh
Medveja Medveja bb, tel. (+385-51) 29 11 91, fax
(+385-51) 29 24 71, reservations@liburnia.hr, www.
liburnia.hr. A little resort with a beautiful shingle beach 25km
from Opatija. Prices are subject to change. Q Person / per
day 50 - 54kn, Children 31 - 34kn, Tent 35 - 38kn, Camping
trailer 48 - 50kn, Admission tax 3.50 - 7kn. hhh
Summer 2012
17

18 WHERE TO STAY
Primorje
Upmarket
Marina Emila Antića 78, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 81 40,
fax (+385-51) 76 81 37, info@hotel-marina.net, www.
hotel-marina.net. Perhaps the most stunning thing about
this bright new hotel near the beach resort Selce is the grassy
sunbathing terrace overlooking the sea. There’s a good
indoor pool, rooms are nice and spacious and bathrooms
have massage showers, there’s a playroom and conference
and banqueting facilities. Prices are per person per day.
Q50 rooms (11 singles €75 - 100, 33 doubles €62 - 85, 6
suites €82 - 100). PHARUFLEGBKDCW
hhhh
Mid-range
Selce Šetalište Ivana Jeličića 14, Selce, tel. (+385-51)
76 82 22, fax (+385-51) 76 82 23, info@hotel-selce.com,
www.hotel-selce.com. Nicely renovated, this mid-sized
family run hotel has tastefully decorated, spacious rooms
with air conditioning and mini bar, a restaurant and conference
hall plus great views of the Kvarner gulf. You’re close to the
heart of the lively resort of Selce with good beaches, cafés
and restaurants. Q90 rooms (87 doubles €95 - 147, 3
Delux Room €121 - 169). PHARLGKDW hhh
Camping
Oštro Oštro 16, Kraljevica, tel. (+385-51) 28 12 18/
(+385-) 091 121 16 55, fax (+385-51) 28 14 04, ostro@
jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. The pine forested
Oštro peninsula is close to the village of Kraljevica, and is
well known for its pleasant shingle beaches. This peaceful
campsite has a shop, restaurant and ice cream parlour, plus
you can stay in little camp huts. Dogs allowed 10 - 15kn/
per day. Q Person / per day 30 - 40kn, Children 10 - 20kn,
Bungalow 277 - 296kn, Plots 40 - 170kn, Admission tax 4.5
- 7kn. TA6LBKW h
Rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with
Rijeka In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf
our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably
updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the
button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations
site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot
is hot to trot, and off you go!
Islands
Upmarket
Apoksiomen Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1, Mali Lošinj,
tel. (+385-51) 52 08 20, fax (+385-51) 52 08 30,
hotel@apoksiomen.com, www.apoksiomen.com. In
prime position on the waterfront of this lively little fishing
town, the hotel named after the bronze statue of a Greek
athlete recently found in the waters near here is in a fully
renovated captain’s villa. Comfortable accommodation,
stylish surroundings and a friendly, individual approach. Prices
are per room per night including breakfast. Q25 rooms (24
singles €72 - 119, 24 doubles €102 - 173, 1 Grand Deluxe
Room €162 - 219). PHAR6UGBKW hhhh
Mid-range
Bellevue Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 12 22,
fax (+385-51) 23 12 68, hotel.bellevue@jadranka.t-com.
hr, www.losinj-hotels.com. Tests by the Innsbruck Institute
of Microbiology found a low concentration of allergens here,
and you can get non-allergenic bedding and rooms without
carpets on request. A lovely warm seawater indoor pool,
gym, sauna and massage facilities, conference rooms and
woodland location on the Bay of Čikat. Q226 rooms (60
singles €54 - 76, 144 doubles €90 - 134, 22 triples €112 -
188). THAUFLEGBKDC hhh
Budget
Alhambra Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 20
22, fax (+385-51) 23 20 42, alhambra@jadranka.t-com.
hr, www.losinj-hotels.com. Simple and small, but with the
good fortune being set in a beautiful Mediterranean villa with
lofty ceilings and high windows. You’re on the bay of Čikat, with
its thick pine forests, imperial architecture, good beaches, and
a 1km trot from the centre of town. Q40 rooms (40 doubles
€62 - 92). TA6LBK hh
Camping
San Marino Lopar bb, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 77 51 33/
(+385-51) 77 51 34, fax (+385-51) 77 52 90, acsanmarino@imperial.hr,
www.imperial.hr. This great
camp is located 12 km from Rab, in Lopar, along an exquisite
sand beach making it ideal for families with kids. It has
great sport and recreational facilities. Per person you’ll pay
6.50 - 7€ per day, children 2.10 - 4€ per child/per day, car
and tent 6.95 - 11.80€ per day and admission tax 7kn. Q
A6EBKW hhh
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Chinese
Peking P-3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30
34. You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed
Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city
centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and
the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has
established an army of fans in Rijeka. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(25 - 119kn). PALGX
Croatian
Konoba Nebuloza F-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-
51) 37 45 01, info@konobanebuloza.com, www.
konobanebuloza.com. Although it calls itself a konoba
(a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and
atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of
modern décor and rustic interior touches.The food focuses
on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood
alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling
bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch
or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price
lunch. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(30 - 80kn) PA
Municipium D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51)
21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, www.municipium.hr.
Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium
is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant.
With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is
light and sublime. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (70 -
150kn). PAGB
Nono Frane Viškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 62
44/(+385-) 098 21 20 21, info@nono-frane.hr, www.
nono-frane.hr. Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just
outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has
a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here
is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes
to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here
are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy
to organise wedding parties. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (50 -
90kn). PALGB
Oštarija pul Belega S-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel.
(+385-51) 21 63 82. Full of local atmosphere, Pul Belega
is a neighbourhood eatery with a pleasant terrace, definitely
not glamorous, but a favourite place of Rijeka’s journalists
for a working lunch. The menu includes Istrian specialities,
inexpensive shellfish and roast lamb. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00,
Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 150kn). PAGB
Ronjgi Ronjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38,
guido@ronjgi.com.hr, www.ronjgi.com.hr. In the hills
above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats
are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made
from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of
the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with
children will feel welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn).
PALGB
Šmrika Marčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel.
(+385-51) 65 10 20, smrika@smrika.hr, www.smrika.
hr. A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include
traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo
pilato’ plus many more wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon. (50 - 100kn). PTA6ILGBSW
Hungry for more? Just click!
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RESTAURANTS
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino 6 Animal friendly
R Internet N No Credit cards
Fast food
Hamby E-2, Ante Starčevića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33
06 53, info@hamby.hr, www.hamby.hr. Fast food but
not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including
soya - and pizza cuts. This Hamby at the train station does
pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too. Lifesaving! QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. NGB
McDonald’s D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-
51) 33 51 77, www.mcdonalds.hr. If you can’t bear to be
separated from your golden arches, you’ll be delighted with
Rijeka’s McDs - its in a gorgeous yellow building that used
to house Rijeka’s historic coffee house. Sacrilege! QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
PAGBS
Pizza Cut Planet E-1, Žrtava fašizma 1, tel. (+385-
51) 33 53 35. Triangles of dough covered with tomato and
cheese. Also circles! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 -
22:00. NGS
Desserts
Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation
of the human race in summer. While you can buy the
usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo,
is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don’t miss the
homemade version in a slastičarna. The water and
milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset
your tum.
Slastičarne are temples to all things sweet. You
can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a
fitting choice of alcohol. These are sometimes nosmoking
establishments due to the presence of little
munchkins.
Choco bar D-2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09
59, www.kraschocobar.com. Chocoholics look out!
Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill
your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a
franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you
can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop
on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee
whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate
cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of
minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco. Q Store
is open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Bar is open 07:00 -
23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AB
Corso D-2, Korzo 20. Light and delicious cakes - some
of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect
terrace for a spot of people-watching on Korzo, and a
bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of
the decorative buildings opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00,
Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB
Summer 2012
19

20 RESTAURANTS
International
Kamov C-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.
bonavia.hr. Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this
fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own
relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively
combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good
wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). PALG
Skopski merak Dragutina Tadijanovića 1, Srdoči,
tel. (+385-51) 62 64 24, www.skopski-merak.hr.
Some way out of town in the hillside suburb of Srdoči, this
Macedonian-themed restaurant is a great place to tuck into
south-Balkan lamb and pork dishes washed down with some
excellent Macedonian wines. Prices are eminently reasonable,
and the interior artfully recreates the atmosphere of a
nineteenth-century Macedonian inn. Merak, by the way, is
one of those strangely poetic Macedonian words that means
something inbetween wistful yearning and loving affection -
an appropriate description for the way these people cook.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 60kn). PALGB
Sorriso Podkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12. Right in
the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace
right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble
down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every
three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light
food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours.
Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like
panna cotta with forest fruits. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (45 -
120kn). AGB
Spagho E-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22.
This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes,
a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities such
as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative
ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar. With its
elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine
list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light
meal in the city centre. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
21:00. (29 - 160kn). AB
Viktoria A-1, Alessandra Manzonia 1a, tel. (+385-51)
33 74 16. In one of the listed buildings forming part of the
historic theatre-palace-market complex near the port of
Rijeka, Viktoria offers pizzas, pasta, fish and meats, and has
a huge terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-70kn). GB
Konoba
A “konoba” is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian
coast - simple and traditional, although some modern
versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great
places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They
were once the places where fishermen hung out and got
someone else to cook their catch for them.
Blato F-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70. In
a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled
floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion -
charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an
unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in
a local atmosphere. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
October - March 31 Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (25 -
70kn). PAG
Girica N-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20,
iva_zec@yahoo.com. Named after a little fish whose fate
is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep
fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon.
A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family
run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn). PALG
Kod Ive J-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62
65. This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family
of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood
to be had. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 60kn). ALGB
Tarsa R-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51)
45 20 89, rojan@ri.t-com.hr, www.konoba-tarsa.net.
The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of
the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style
surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it
popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with
truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 100kn). PAULEGBS
Volta 15 D-2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06.
A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light
lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - no, we’re
not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities
such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod). QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn). PAGB
Mexican
Konoba Bodega E - 3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33
57 59. What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna
and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One
of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles
around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals
give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate
pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to
crimes of chocolate passion. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
13:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn). PAGB
Out of town
Amfora Črnikovica 4, Volosko, tel. (+385-51) 70 12
22, amfora@restaurant-amfora.com, www.restaurantamfora.com.
Long regarded as one of the finest restaurants
on the Opatija Riviera, Amfora has an antique-style interior
and a lovely terrace with a sea view. A classic fish restaurant,
also with excellent meats and an extensive wine list. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). ALGB
Bracera Kvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51)
85 87 00, konoba@bracera.hr, www.bracera.hr. This
lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is
worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat
dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a
plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin
rich, and easy on your pocket! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27 -
300kn). PNGB
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Dopolavoro Učka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/
(+385-) 091 222 53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. If the heat’s
getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where
you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional
game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as
asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it’s
superbly juicy. Reserve in advance. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Monday. July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 -
120kn). ALGB
Draga di Lovrana Lovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel.
(+385-51) 27 76 89, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www.
dragadilovrana.hr. Head for this delightful little family-run
hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds,
and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish
they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try
home-made bread and desserts, and drink in the view from
the terrace. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00. (70
- 120kn). PALB
Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51)
85 71 42, info@gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr. Top quality
Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’
milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which
is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also
make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy
to take home. Q April - October 30 Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(40 - 180kn). PALB
Istranka Bože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, comeprima@inet.hr.
A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just
behing Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional
food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady
terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PAB
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS
Johnson Majćevo 29b, Moščenićka Draga, tel. (+385-
51) 73 75 78, info@johnson.hr, www.johnson.hr. This
family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood
and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is
quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for
it. On the road towards Mošćenice. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Tue. June - October Open 12:00 - 23:00. (75 - 250kn).
PALGB
Konoba Nada Glavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-
51) 85 70 65, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www.nada-vrbnik.
hr. If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and
fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies
the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious
restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call
to reserve in advance). Q April - October 31 Open 12:00 -
22:00 (70 - 270kn). PAGB
Konoba Ribice Ulica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel.
(+385-) 091 184 13 01. As the name “little fish” suggests,
this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal
of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple
and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the
heart of old Punat. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (30 - 70kn). NB
Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15
19, info@kukuriku.hr, www.kukuriku.hr. “Slow food” -
several courses representing the best of the season, each
accompanied by a glass of outstanding wine. With a wonderful
location in old Kastav and a terrace overlooking the whole
of Kvarner, Kukuriku is a gastronomic highlight of the region.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). PAB
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
21

22 RESTAURANTS
Lavrvs Nova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-
51) 74 13 55, laurus@villa-kapetanovic.hr, www.
villa-kapetanovic.hr. Part of the delightful new hotel Villa
Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has
become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner
personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine
Croatian wines - always a good sign. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(65 - 130kn). PALB
Mali raj Maršala Tita 191, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 40
74/(+385-) 091 470 40 74, info@mali-raj.hr, www.maliraj.hr.
Part of a large and upscale guesthouse overlooking
the sea, the “little heaven” restaurant offers a huge choice of
excellent seafood and meat dishes and good pizzas. Prices
are rather reasonable, and the terrace is gorgeous. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). ALGB
NaJade Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18
66. Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a
rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff
and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path
in Lovran. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350kn) PAB
Plavi podrum Obala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija,
tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73,
dkramari@inet.hr, www.plavipodrum.com. A high class
restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An
excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier
of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very
smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (60 - 180kn). AGB
Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
27 13 79, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villa-ariston.hr. The
restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style
dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood,
and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international
cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re
sure you’ll enjoy it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn).
PALGB
Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+385-
51) 29 44 00, villa.astra@lovranske-vile.com, www.
lovranske-vile.com. Intimate dining in the antique dining
room of exquisite Villa Astra, one of the loveliest boutique
hotels on the coast. The menu is as small and perfectly
formed as the hotel, with selected seasonal dishes
presenting flavours from Kvarner and Istria. QOpen 18:30
- 22:00. (160 - 300kn). PAGB
Pizza
Bracera C-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24
98. A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka
opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a
rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay
oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy
salads. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 110kn). PAGB
Kokolo L-2, Zametska 58, tel. (+385-51) 26 33 94,
www.kokolo.hr. On the road leading west from Rijeka
towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has
a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a
great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for
hours. QOpen 09:00 - 22:45. (20 - 180kn). PAGBS
Pampas V-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21
90 58. A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim
shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (27- 65kn). PVNBS
Seafood
Feral E-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74,
brodokomerc.forum@ri.t-com.hr. Croatian classics - it’s
a simple place with a small menu - which often means that
what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyseslike,
on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
(23 - 350kn). PAGBS
Na kantunu E-3, Demetrova 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 32
71/(+385-51) 21 13 62, na.kantunu@email.t-com.hr.
Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices.
A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables,
but clean and comfortable nonetheless. With a relaxed
style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’
community. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 200kn).
PAGBS
Zlatna školjka C-2, Kružna 12a, tel. (+385-51) 21 37
82, zlatna.skoljka@ri.t-com.hr. In the heart of the city,
just off Korzo, Zlatna Školjka has long enjoyed the reputation
as one of the city’s classiest restaurants. The seafood is
indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable
interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky
antique decorations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(60 - 120kn). PAGB
Vegetarian
Fork B-2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50,
info@fork.hr, www.fork.hr. Positioned close to the
bus station and at the beginning of Korzo, this small
vegetarian buffet may only have four tables but it is
delightfully pleasant with a small terrace. The menu
changes over the winter and summer seasons with
meals such as soup, sandwiches, pastas, tofu, couscous,
veggie dishes, salads and cakes to devour. Oh my, we
certainly recommend! QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. Closed
Sun. (24 - 44kn). PNGS
Klub Makrovega E-2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-
51) 32 11 45, makrovega.rijeka@gmail.com. Like
many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health
food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at
reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through
they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared
using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods,
and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu
offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices
are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with
the regulars. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
(13 - 23kn). PNG
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Cukarikafe D-2, Marka Marulića 4, tel. (+385-) 099
583 82 76, cukaricafe.bar@gmail.com. The old-fashioned
huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this
delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern
colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist.
The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and
beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good
coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo…
What more could you want? QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PGBW
Dolce Bolero D-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-51) 33
03 43/(+385-51) 37 23 50, bolero_commerce@net.hr.
A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brick-red
walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon
spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices
happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display
cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is
useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a
splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionary assault. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PNGB
Ero E-3, Verdieva 3a, tel. (+385-51) 33 79 02. In a lovely
and tranquil spot by the National Theatre and the market,
Ero has a tree-shaded terrace and is a soothing place to
sit inside on rainy days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 -
14:00. PNB
Ferrari D-2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-
51) 33 12 15. It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit
on the square, close to the Bonavia. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PNBX
Fiorello Pub D-2, Korzo 2D, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90.
A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PNBX
Gradina R-2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina,
tel. (+385-) 091 724 39 08/(+385-) 091 154 10 65,
caffebargradina@gmail.com, www.bascinskiglasi.hr.
You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café
bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka
city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved
fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the
Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibition
space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best
vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the
adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. B
Iskra D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14
06. Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as
an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice
terrace and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend
an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac -
both gutsy southern reds. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
06:00 - 14:00. PNB
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉS
Kosi toranj E-2, Pul Vele crikve 1, tel. (+385-51) 33
62 14. Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the
Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you
might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/
breakbeat DJ set come evening. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun
07:00 - 14:00. PNBX
Latino E-2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. A
nice arty little café with good cakes. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00,
Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNBX
Laval D-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 88 82. Right in front
of the ferry terminal, a classy café with a shady terrace and
an excellent wine list. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 02:00. PNBX
Mali Cafe D-2, Korzo 18a, tel. (+385-51) 33 56 06/
(+385-) 091 253 79 12, vsilvio1@gmail.com. One of the
nicest cafes, right on trendy Korzo, all sophisticated in black
and white. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNBX
Picasso E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 1a, tel. (+385-51)
31 54 16, oss@inet.hr. Lively and often spinning house
music for the kids, Picasso is bright, clean, air-conditioned
and has a dual-purpose terrace for supping coffee and slurping
Ledo ice cream. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
PNGB
Piramida F-2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37
11 81. A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNX
Premier D-2, Andrije Medulića 7, tel. (+385-51) 21
54 02. The terrace in the street that winds up to St Vitus’
Cathedral kicks tush. Inside all is mellow wood and rock
music. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNGBX
Ritz E-2, Sokol-Kula 13, tel. (+385-51) 33 94 75. Sit
on the little square where the statue of the lady carrying
enormous milk churns is, and feel guilty as hell. QOpen
06:30 - 21:30. Closed Sun. PNBX
Sabbia C-2, Riva 6 (Shopping centre RI), tel. (+385-51)
31 10 19. High up in the big RI department store, you can
enjoy the view over the harbour as you devour your weekly
calorific intake all in one go. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. PNGB
Striga F-1, Titov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. In the
same building as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant
place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch
folk pass over the modern footbridge. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
June - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
PNBX
Voyager A-1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 78
95. Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super
(air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink or
snack. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PNBX
Summer 2012
23

24 NIGHTLIFE
Bars
Galaxie bar Bože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel.
(+385-) 091 242 42 22. Should you find yourself up in the
Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality.
Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart
bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big
screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good
mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo, DJ parties
on Fridays and regular live music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
PNGBX
Maat Bar R-2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports
Centre, tel. (+385-) 098 32 81 64. On the ground floor of
the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports”
a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee
by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a
large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and
r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PLGBX
Mirage Istarska bb. The Mirage bar is on the top level of this
smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge
music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things
get lively. A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there
are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink
and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PBX
Monokini Maršala Tita 96, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
70 38 88. If you’re beginning to tire of Opatija’s haughty
belle-epoque self-image then it’s high time you headed for
Monokini, where sixties’ inspired furniture and sculptural light
fittings provide a this-is-not-the-riviera-of-old sense of popart
modernity. Changing exhibitions of art and photography
enliven the walls, while the bendy bit of metal below the bar
throws hall-of-mirrors reflections back on bemused drinkers.
The street-facing terrace is a great place to slump if there’s
enough sunshine. In the evening, DJ decks in the corner
provide the source of chillout sounds or frisky bone-bending
beats, depending on what night of the week it is. QOpen
07:00 - 02:00. PNGBX
Pepe Rosso D-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20
56, www.peperossobar.com. In the lovely old quarter by
the ferry terminal, this bar hots up at nightfall to the sound of
Latino pasión. Tuesday night is the time to trip to the haughty
steps of tango, and regional stars of the salsa scene fly in on
Wednesdays. The evenings start with dance classes followed
by freestyling till clock strikes two. There’s a classy drinks
menu, a few nibbles, book promotions, art exhibitions, live
blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all
age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really! QOpen
07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW
Rozi E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33
84 23. Favoured by Rijeka’s student crowd, Rozi is a little
scruffy, which gives it a laid-back feel. Cheap drinks and snacks
are accompanied by lively music, conversation, gesticulation
and mastication. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. PNB
Sabrage R-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236
75 37. Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old
Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones
and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu
(excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities,
and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent
indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PENBX
Teta Roža S-3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 098 137 61
19. Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a
marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more
arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs
on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock
gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the
main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter
beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other
Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place
is well worth struggling up the hill for. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNBX
Tunel E-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, tunel@
zabava.hr. Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in
a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music,
laid back jazz and alternative culture - you’ll find exhibitions,
fairs of handcrafts and all sorts here. The cool interior has
a small stage for live jam sessions. As an added bonus,
they serve great coffee from 8 AM, and there’s a free net
connection in case you decide to finish your work while tapping
your toes!QOpen Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,
Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PNBX
Clubs
Boa E-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 01/
(+385-) 091 339 93 39, club_boa@yahoo.com, www.
clubboa.com. This confection reminds one of a chocolate
box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly
modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest
spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the
evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressedup
crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian
music scene graces Boa with a live performance. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNB
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Disco Seven Maršala Tita 125, Opatija, tel. (+385-)
098 45 08 47. Perhaps the most stylish summer discoteque
in Opatija is Disco Seven, located right on the beach next
to Hemingway Bar. House is typically the music du jour. Q
Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. July, August Open 22:00 - 06:00.
PNGBX
Palach C-2, Kružna ulica 8, bookamail@gmail.com.
Rijeka’s main counter-culture hangout is dedicated to Jan
Palach, the Czech dissident student who set himself on fire
during the Soviet invasion in 1968. DJs, performances and
exhibitions bring life to the student scene in this grungy
space tucked away behind Korzo. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 09.00 - 04:00, Sun
17:00 - 24:00. Closed July 21 - August 25. PNGBX
Place F-1, Ružićeva 2, placee.ri@gmail.com. Head up
the right bank of the Rječina river towards Rijeka’s historic
industrial core, and on the right you’ll see a shed-like structure
which hardly looks like the kind of place to find Place. But
sure enough, this is it, the heart of the city’s alternative rock
scene. There’s a live band on at least one night a week, and
a DJ plays otherwise. Scuzzy and friendly, Place is a bit of a
gem. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PX
Cocktail bars
Hemingway Zert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 23 33,
opatija@hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Nowadays
there are Hemingway bars all over Croatia but this was the
first and remains the most cultish, with its semi-circular
glass facade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion
boats of Opatija’s tidy little harbour. There’s a dearth of
Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails
remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still
kicks in at weekends. The standard of service ranges from
the merely ok to the absolutely rubbish and the drinks are
more expensive than the ones you can help yourselves to in
the average hotel minibar, but Hemingway is the one place in
Opatija in which you have to hang out at least once. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. AGBX
Pubs
Belgian Beer Caffe - Brasserie As D-2, Trg Republike
Hrvatske 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 23 45, info@ugostiteljstvoas.com,
www.ugostiteljstvo-as.com. Another woodsy
“real” pub, huge and with an extensive menu featuring daily
set menus and veggie platters. The terrace between Korzo
and Riva demands you rest your weary limbs on a hot day.
The food’s not very Belgian. The beer is. Or at least some of
it. So are the prices. QOpen 06:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 -
02:00. PAGB
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
NIGHTLIFE
Capitano E-2, Riva 8. First impressions suggest a classy
and yuppiefied pub, complete with bustling be-aproned
waiters, upholstered booths and polished cherrywood
surfaces. However the pumping music and no-nonsense
party atmosphere draws a young and hedonistic crowd in
the evenings, especially at weekends when Capitano is a
key stop-off on the city-centre booze crawl. QOpen 07:00 -
06:00. PNBX
Celtic Caffe Bard E-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51)
21 52 35, bard@caffebard.com, www.caffebard.com. A
lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy
split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV
screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a
good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer
on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With
a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and
classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who
like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want
to shout over the din of top-40 drivel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNBX
Gric & guc C-2, Dolac 8b, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 40,
catering.as@ri.t-com.hr. As the name itself suggests, this
is a place to nibble and sip! Perfectly placed in the heart of
town close to Korzo, this L-shaped beer house is set in a
basement and has all the tasty meaty dishes one can only
want when knocking back a pint. They haven’t forgotten lovers
of seafood and veggies either, they cater for all. A simple,
wooden interior, pleasant atmosphere and fair prices. After
a day of sightseeing what more could you ask for? QOpen
06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (18 - 99kn).
PAGBW
Casinos
Casino Ri D-2, Trg 111. brigade hrv. vojske, tel.
(+385-51) 31 12 46, casino.rijeka@lutrija.hr, www.
lutrija.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 04:00. PGX
Phanas Pub D-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23
77, phanas@phanas.hr, www.phanas.hr. A big hit with
the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial
dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party
people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood
pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus
a few snacks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 -
05:00. PAX
Riječka pivnica A-2, Krešimirova 16a, tel. (+385-) 098
928 18 00, rijeckapivnica@net.hr, www.rijeckapivnica.
info. This L-shaped tunnel of a place is one of Rijeka’s bestloved
beer halls, thanks in large part to the presence of
Kilkenny, Guiness and Budweiser on draught. The bar menu
features plenty in the steak and pork-chop line, although the
goulash with Czech dumplings for 38kn stands out as one of
the best-value and tastiest feeds you’ll find in town. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNGB
River pub D-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-) 095 400
30 03, www.river-pub.com. With a slightly older crowd, a
nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that
inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the
most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late.
One of the best nights out in Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
Closed July, August. PNGBXW
� Rijeka telephone code is +385-51
Summer 2012
25

26 WHAT TO SEE
Essential Rijeka
Rijeka’s main sights have been
labelled with plaques and
brought together in a walking
tour called the “Tourist Route” -
or Turistička magistrala. You can
see all the places marked with
numbers on the map at the back
of this guide. Here are the potted
histories of these landmarks. For
the full story, check out www.
tz-rijeka.hr
We’ve included some other
landmarks which we think may
also be interesting for you.
Essential Rijeka
St Vitus Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Vida) D-1,
Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Although there has
been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector
of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see
it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were
once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka
under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in
this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic,
including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built
in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice
monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There
is also some unusual stained glass work, including an
image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that
a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the
church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at
the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of
Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed
up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm
waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The
cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access
from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which
sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a
cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription
referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This
fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the
Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral
status in 1922. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30.
The City Tower and City Gate (Gradski toranj,
Gradska vrata) D-2, Korzo. Walking along Korzo, near
the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with
a clock tower. This was once a gate - the original entrance
to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered
the city from the sea - everything that stands between
here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land.
There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle
Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake
in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important
buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian
Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which
Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved
too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the
correct time today.
The Corso (Korzo) C/D-2, Korzo. The “Corso” is
Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period
buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing
fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch
up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the
seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s
no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot
of people-watching here.
The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc
(Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc)
E-3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 35 59 00/(+385-51)
35 59 07, propaganda@hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.
hr. This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central
Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre
in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a
Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre
design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State
Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in Czech
spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885,
the theatre was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka.
During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights
festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to
catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt,
and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian
artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape
of Krk island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of
the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer
Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors
to the development of classical music in Croatia.
Trsat S-1. Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area
and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat,
which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times.
Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited
since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols
of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant
spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the
fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller
church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many
concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a
charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger
over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The
church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin
Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The
story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the
Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to
Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they
stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the
site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire
development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage.
The church contains a great number of renowned religious
paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed
to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims
in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the
church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort
has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local
influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of
Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic
alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a
commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually
made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the
museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground
spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are
now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret
passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style
Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space.
The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty
and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf.
It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that
protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. You
can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain
Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you
start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees
as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky,
you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre,
or take bus No.2.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Churches
The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes
(Kapucinska crkva Gospe Lurdske) B-2, Kapucinske
stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. The grand neo-gothic
edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two
sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church
of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the
lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins
were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently
someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some
luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who
sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part
with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the
church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the
miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful
story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned,
but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the
landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a
view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass:
07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00. July,
August Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00 and 19:00.
Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
The Church of St Jerome and Dominican
Monastery (Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski
samostan) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51)
32 53 20. A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium
square. It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery
complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts
of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the
House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried
here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s
was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as
many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in
the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s
is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of
Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a
Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00,18:30, Sun 08:00,
09:00, 11:30, 18:30. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
Saint Vitus - Sveti Vid
The Slavs took St Vitus to their hearts as a patron saint
because his name means something like “all-seeing” in
Slav languages – indeed, he is the patron saint of eyes and
vision, and of the city of Rijeka. So much did his image become
part of the city that Rijeka was known in the Middle
Ages either as “Terra Fluminis Sancti Viti” (in Latin) or “Rika
Svetog Vida” (Croatian). You can see his image on a stained
glass window in the St Vitus Cathedral and in many other
items of the city’s heraldry. St Vitus was born in Sicily at the
end of the 3rd Century, and was martyred by the Roman
Emperor Diocletian (he who built the great palace at Split).
Prague’s gothic cathedral is also named after him.
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WHAT TO SEE
The Church of St Mary
of the Assumption and
The leaning tower (Crkva
Uznesenja Blažene
Djevice Marije i Kosi
toranj) E-2, Pavla Rittera
Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51)
21 41 77. Another site once
at the heart of Tarsatica, as
the nearby remains of Roman
spas testify. St Mary of the
Assumption dates back to the
Middle Ages, and has since
then undergone many phases
of rebuilding and adding to,
resulting in a right old mix of
styles, but not changing the
fact that this is a much-loved
place of worship. This was
once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva,
or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or
“the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. Although
St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork,
including the ceilings, it was undergoing renovation at the
time of writing. This is a good church to attend if you want
to get the feel of a local mass. Q June, September Open
08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00. August
Open 17:00 - 19:00.
The Church of St Sebastian (Crkva sv.
Sebastijana) D-2, Marka Marulića bb. Some say that
the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in
1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian,
saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built
in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was
the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to
the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to
know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron
saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers,
Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless
heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape.
Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every
day at 18:00.
The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas (Pravoslavna
crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-
51) 33 53 99. Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian
Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The
story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with
their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea,
saying “There! That’s where you can build your church!” The
industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the
Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone
had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva
and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a
grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The
church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina
in Serbia and Bosnia. Mass: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun
09:00 and 18:00. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30,
Mon 08:00 - 09:00, 18:00 - 18:30.
The Salesian Monastery (Salezijanski samostan)
N-2, Vukovarska 62, tel. (+385-51) 67 58 04. The monks
of the Salesian order follow the teachings of St Don Bosco
(1815-1888), a priest who dedicated his life to helping and
teaching orphaned boys. The buildings of the monastery
complex date back to 1892, the chapel for orphans to 1901.
The Salesians were invited to Rijeka in 1918 to work with
young people, and founded a school and oratory here. The
Salesian Classical Grammar School is a highly regarded
educational institution which continues this work today on
the same site.
Summer 2012
27

28 WHAT TO SEE
Fountains
Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains. Before
the city had a water system, they made use of the many
springs which have their source in the very centre. Some
of these being underground, public washing facilities and
drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing
places where the inhabitants would gather and catch up with
the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone
since the building of the modern water system, but in more
recent years decorative fountains have been built that give
the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you
can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat.
The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski
trg) C-2, Jadranski trg. Two squarish, hexagonal structures
in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting
place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a
circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that
tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets
arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty
and soothing noise.
The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki)
E-2, Jelačićev trg. Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed,
this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two
children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988
by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring
symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers,
it has become a favourite meeting point for young people,
for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it
as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other
momentous occasions.
The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) D-2, Korzo.
Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver
cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source”
at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural
springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka
and the Velebit range.
The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) D-2,
Koblerov trg. A perfect symbol of the interplay between
Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental
elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with
their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s
first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece,
and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed
edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a
source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented
the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the
occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.
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The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) A-2,
Krešimirova. Just opposite the train station, this unusual,
conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water
was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool,
refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for
years, since 1873.
Historical areas
Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18.
st.) E-1, Kalvarija. Just north of St Vitus Church is a path
named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential
Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by
the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their
attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path
leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to
the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the
way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains
of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks
of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from
the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of
the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala
cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau
and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a
pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives
you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential
areas in the hills north of the centre.
Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium
(Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.
Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of
ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful
soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your
insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once
part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica,
from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills
behind were managed.
The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) T-2,
Sveti križ. Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of
Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of
defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the
coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland
Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort,
as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks). Because
of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a
scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and
tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in
December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre,
spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to
be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found
in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view
over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!
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30 WHAT TO SEE
The Old City (Stari grad). The centre of Rijeka once
looked very different. The buildings on the north side of
Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth
century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled
city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart
of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava
fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma
Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs
to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water
systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can
still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part
of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the
area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the
Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north
of Trg Ivana Koblera.
Industrial Rijeka
It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around
you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and
progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine
historic architecture.
The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) F-1, Ružićeva bb.
Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is
a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and
produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported
all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most
successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and
Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded by Andrije Ljudevit
Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above).
In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and
England who installed the first steam engine in southeast
Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest
manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won
many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The
industry was devastated by war and economic and political
changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving
many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s
development and the industrial history of Europe, there are
moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural
centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in
“Tvornica papira Hartera”.
Lost for words? Just click!
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The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) L-3, Liburnijska
3. Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see
signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest
shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia.
They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka
during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding
going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav
shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output
was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy.
3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years,
including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to
do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their
expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste
management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having
a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works
specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work
like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is
another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.
The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A-1, Ulica
Petra Krešimira IV. A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s
train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria
Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it
was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed
here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the
industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!)
in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine
palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese
motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also
exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual
murals of bathing goddesses.
The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) M-3, Jože
Vlahovića 19. Did you know that the torpedo was invented
in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing
weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like
this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval
officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at
long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the
coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background
nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about
a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a
steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their
heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”,
as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By
1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output
of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation
for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt
in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic
parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp)
as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish
market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone
in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way,
the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the
coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home
of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the
torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter.
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Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) A-2, Petra
Krešimira 5. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the
train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its
architectural value, but also since its building heralded a
boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby
Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in
the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest
architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is
a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary
that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were
mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations
in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are
listed buildings.
Landmarks
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
We are actively involved
in the showcase of our natural and cultural diversities
Sense the new Mediterranean with a unique area where people live within
Mediterranean spirit and the Central European heritage
City Market (Velika
tržnica) E-3, Verdieva.
Together with the nearby
National Theatre and its
park, the Modello Palace
and numerous residential,
commercial and industrial
buildings, the City Market forms
a super urban architectural
complex. At its core are
beautiful art nouveau market
halls, especially the lively
fish market, which is in an
imposing Liberty style building
with charming mouldings by
famous Venetian sculptor
Urbano Bottasso of the poor crustaceans destined soon
to hit your plate. Don’t miss the city’s central market if you
love to get the feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high
Strategic coordination with:
Riva 1, 51 000 Rijeka • Phone: +385 51 351-177 • Fax: +385 51 331-764 • rijeka.gateway@portauthority.hr • www.portauthority.hr
with fresh local produce and the cheery banter of traders and
their customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this
part of the world. The market is a good place for speciality
delicatessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to
the sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own!
The pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast
food takeaways and inexpensive konoba for a quick and
authentic lunch - see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few
pleasant cafés with leafy terraces.
Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most
hrvatskih branitelja) E-2, Uskočka riva. A striking
modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers
who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it
contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in
harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s
spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples
of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the
hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagrebbased
architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from
the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge
heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the
passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As
you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!
Summer 2012
31

32 WHAT TO SEE
Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) D-3. The Port of Rijeka
was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over
the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with
the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade
boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port
for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka
ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume.
War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First
World War stopped the international transport of goods by
sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of
Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the
east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs,
Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two.
During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was
destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on
the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised
goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By
1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per
year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the
northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it
was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part
of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and
Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry,
went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the
shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the
yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth.
Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka
has a long-standing transport connection with the countries
of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an
ideal point for the import and export of goods between the
Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around
it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany
and Poland, western Ukraine and more.
Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) F-1/2 / E-2.
“Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by
chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you
see there wind their way through the city, underground and
overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.
Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old
in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine.
The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since
before Roman times. When the port was developed, the
Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned
- you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead
canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where
there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The
two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel
Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer
Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further
south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument
to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see
Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested
to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from
fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.
Sušak - Pećine Q/S-3/4. The neighbourhood of Sušak
that lies across the river was once a separate settlement.
It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since
once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the
laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the
railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine
buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the
east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre
of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line
between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under
the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition
from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the
main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.
Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come
to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was
the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and
it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the
political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is
particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was
responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His
relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of
much-loved children’s books. In the family’s library, which is
listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English
language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long
Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in
English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a
cultural monument.
The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) E-2, Užarska. By the Ritz
café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent
under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the
statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in
the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that
gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and
milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you
see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese - grobnički
sir - try it if you see it on the menu.
neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time Silvia Kovačević
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski
Centar Rijeka) Sveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57
00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www.
astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Star gazers and those
passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about
to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia.
As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ,
getting there by public transport is easy and available via
line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building which
was built in 1941as a military fortress. Subsequently, in
2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka’s first observatory
was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into
an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center
now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other
additional contents for learning more about astronomy.
Special presentations are organized for foreign tourists every
Wednesday at 21:30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 10 -20kn.
The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) D-2, Trg Julija Klovića.
Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone
archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry
into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre.
Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist
department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added
on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to
Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns,
stone walls and slabs.
The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) F-1, Titov
trg. On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a
statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike pose.
This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous
for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read
today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona
in 1910 at the age of 24.
Museums
If you’d like to tour Rijeka’s Natural History Museum, you’ll be
glad to know that interactive audio guides to the museum
are now available in Croatian and in English, meaning that
you can enjoy a guided tour at any time during the Museum’s
opening hours.
Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej
moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) C-2, Dolac 1/II,
tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.
mmsu.hr. Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and
foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack
of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary
ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. Q
Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
Peek&Poke E-1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091
780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Hands up if you love PC’s!
Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum in
computer technology? Poised near the Nikola Host Park and
behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples
of early calculators, games consoles and computers spread
across two levels. In addition, different events, workshops,
play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...
fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 5
computers available to visitors as a cost of 15kn per half an
hour or 20kn per hour. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun Open by
prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.
State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) D-1,
Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51)
33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr.
Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of
national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County
and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to
1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where
exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of
Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home
is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke
Joseph once lived. Q During exhibitions open 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian
Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog
primorja) D-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35
78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp.
hr. One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime
and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most
beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace,
it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s
emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which
collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected
to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County
and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in prehistorical
times through to the 20th century.
Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the
Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman,
medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated
by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime
Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships,
ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and
prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and
Historical Departments. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.
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Summer 2012
33

34 WHAT TO SEE
The Museum of the City of Rijeka (Muzej grada
Rijeke) D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11,
info@muzej-rijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Housed in a
purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the
Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from
the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions
on subjects of global interest. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00,
16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission
10 - 15kn, Mon free.
The Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni
muzej) D-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69,
info@prirodoslovni.com, www.prirodoslovni.com. Nature
lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and
the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent
aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly
and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions
simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted
or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and
insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for
your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of
the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It
features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean
deciduous zone. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Admission 5 - 10kn.
The University Library (Sveučilišna knjižnica
Rijeka) C-2, Dolac 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 11/(+385-
51) 33 61 29, www.svkri.uniri.hr. The former School for
Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel
Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948,
and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit
is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of
the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display
are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic
alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one
of the most important document of this kind in existence.
Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books
and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see
something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to
make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum
of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building. Q
Admission 10 kn.
Palaces
The Governor’s Palace (Guvernerova palača)
D-1, Muzejski trg 1. The Governor was a representative of
the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around
in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”,
which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest.
The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned
the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named
Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the
Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed
in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop
commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace
does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History
Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid
interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.
The Jadran Building (Palača Adria) C-2, Riva. This
grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront
is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you
see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in
1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping
company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the
port of Trieste and world domination. While they didn’t quite
manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the
world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa
and shellsuits from Liverpool. The palace’s exterior is rich
in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship’s captain,
helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while
from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing
Africa, Asia, Europe and India.
The Judicial Palace (Sudbena palača) E-1, Žrtava
fašizma. Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice,
which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over
by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too - raised above
ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases,
its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the
most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed
by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler,
who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was
built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls
since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.
The Modello Building (Palača Modello) E-2, Ivana
Zajca. A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian
architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as
part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style
of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its
original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly
decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City
Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.
The Municipal Palace (Palača Municipija) D-2, Trg
Riječke rezolucije. Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a
large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased
to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the
buildings for use by the local government of the growing city.
The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the
influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll
see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the
appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square
of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in
a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms.
The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a
multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke
rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it
to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name
of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration
of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move
which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia.
The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in
here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole
which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively
in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor
Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during
a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came
under heavy fire.
The Palazzo (Palača komuna) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.
This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town
Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city
authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc,
after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in
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music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the
first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian,
Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza - the centre of the city’s
social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by
evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th
anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes
this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.
Parks
The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe
Trsatske) V-2, Trsat. Built within the walls of the monastery
at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created
in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your
sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St
Mary at Trsat.
The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka). One of the oldest
and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874
to make a break between the city centre and the western
suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic
centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space,
watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting
place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put
up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream
running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.
The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) D-1,
Žrtava fašizma. Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th
century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial
Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries
such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke
Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all
over the world for these gardens, which he established at the
beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several
levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed
to achieve the look of an English garden - it’s rather lost its
former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the
State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian
botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discovered
the genus hosta, we suspect.
The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) E-3, Ivana Zajca.
Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony
with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city
market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and
has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back
to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties
appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto,
Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE
The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora)
D-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. This park continues uphill
from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the
Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical
Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of
Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined
the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian
Parliament.
Religious collections
The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna
zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) E-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel.
(+385-51) 33 08 79. The Cathedral’s interior has many
wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the
room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits
during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The
most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary,
made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and
reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made
by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item
is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church
of St Vitus stood here. Call for visit tour. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.
The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings
(Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) U-1, Frankopanski
trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. Includes model ships,
paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by
grateful people whose prayers have been answered. Q Open
07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat
(Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) U-1,
Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. The
Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one
of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no
mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting
this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build
the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to
the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and
members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures
include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and
a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art
gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious
art. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.
The Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery, Trsat
(Riznica Franjevačkog samostana, Trsat) U-3,
Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. All kinds
of churchy stuff dating back to the 13th century, including
incunabula and a valuable collection of vestments. Q Open
by prior arrangement. Admission free.
Summer 2012
35

36 OPATIJA
Opatija gets its rightful name from an abbey that was
established here in the late Middle Ages by Benedictine
monks. The Croatian word for abbey is opatija, and this
same abbey was abandoned by the early nineteenth century,
although its centre-point, St James’s Church (Crkva svetog
Jakova), still stands by the seashore today. As people sort
shelter across Europe, a civilian settlement grew-up around
the abbey some time in the sixteenth century - although
it wasn’t until the nineteenth century that Opatija was
discovered as a potential health resort, and it was then that
its development and infrastructure really began to expand.
Opatija’s history as a tourist destination begins in the 1840’s
when a merchant from the nearby city of Rijeka, Iginio Scarpa
built the Villa Angiolina which served as both a family retreat
and a venue for high-society gatherings. With members of the
Austro-Hungarian aristocracy included on Scarpa’s guest list,
the appeal of Opatija as a holiday destination rapidly spread.
Tourists back in the nineteenth-century were not interested
in sunbathing, bungee-jumping, and drinking themselves
silly. They saw travel as a health-improving activity which
took them away from smoky cities and provided them
with a dose of fresh sea air. Opatija, with its warm climate
and mild sea breezes,
was the ideal destination.
Opatija had got its major
breakthrough under
the rule of the Austro-
Hungarian Empire which
was expanding its railway
networks. Urged on by the
advice of top doctors;
notably the Austrian
laryngologist Leopold
Schrötter, who found the
local sea air to be an
excellent cure for throat
complaints, the Southern
Railway Company or
Südbahn had built a
direct line from Vienna to
Rijeka. The construction
of hotels was next on the
agenda which was seen as a major requirement in order to
meet the needs of a growing tourist industry. In 1884, the
Südbahn had opened Opatija’s first sanatorium, the Kvarner
which continues to operate today under the name Kvarner
Hotel. Since its early days, Opatija was always seen as an
exclusive resort for the horse-and-carriage set and it had
soon become popular amongst the Austro-Hungarian royal
family. Emperor Franz Josef himself was a regular visitor, and
was joined here by his German counterpart Kaiser Wilhelm
II in 1894. Franz Ferdinand (the Archduke, not the 80’s pop
rock band) would venture down to Opatija to indulge in a spot
of bird-shooting at nearby Preluk.
Essential Opatija
Villa Angiolina
Built in 1844 and seen as a landmark in the town’s
development as a high-society resort. Fittingly, the high
and mighty figures of the populace would relish in the
villa surroundings, attending lavish balls and receptions.
High-ranking guests included the governor of Croatia Josip
Jelačić (1851), Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859),
and Emperor Franz-Jozef’s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana
(1860). The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian
Tourism (Hrvatski muzej turizma, Park Angiolina 1, tel. 099
239 14 46, open 10:00 -18:00. Closed Mon. June 15 -
September Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.) - well worth visiting not least because it gives
you the chance to peek inside the villa’s ornate entrance
hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling
and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs,
antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself
provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the
history of the travel industry.
The Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion
Occupying the site of the former Benedictine monastery
buildings, this elegant colonnaded structure originally served
as a seafront café. Lovingly restored, and named after one
of the pre-World War I medical men who popularized Opatija
as a health resort, the pavilion now hosts contemporary art
exhibitions. Park sv. Jakova 1, tel. 27 22 25. Admission
free.
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The Girl with a Seagull
Definitely one of the most pictured motifs through which
Opatija presents itself to the world is the sculpture of a
girl with a seagull on her hand. It was made in 1956 by the
sculptor Zvonko Car. It was placed on the same spot where
the sculpture of the Madonna used to stand. Originally, the
sculpture of the Madonna was put there in memory of Arthur
Kesselstadt, who tragically died at sea in 1891. Due to wear
and tear from the conditions near the sea, the sculpture had
been damaged and was later transferred and restored. It
can now be seen in St James’s Church above the Riviera.
The Croatian Walk of Fame (Hrvatska ulica slavnih)
Initiated in 2006 and has become a must see spot on the city
tour. This educational and tourist project honours renowned
and famous Croatians who have been promoting Croatia to
the world through sport, science, culture and arts success.
Marble stars have been carefully placed along Opatija’s
Slatina promenade and home the likes of poet Dragutin
Tadijanović, tennis great Goran Ivanišević, handball player
Ivano Balić, actor Pero Kvrgić and others.
Opatija’s parks and promenades
Nature lovers will be pleased to know that Opatija’s
Mediterranean climate has fittingly helped in the growth
and protection of the lush vegetation of its parks and
promenades. The close proximity of Mount Učka ensures
fresh nights whilst spring tends to be the most pleasant part
of the year. Opatija gets its fair share of rain which is vital
in maintaining its vegetation. In winter, there is usually no
frost whilst snow is very rare and short-termed. As Opatija
is protected from the cold and strong winds, this also helps
the vitality of its flora.
Park Angiolina and Saint James
It just so happens that at the same time as Villa Angiolina was
being built, Opatija’s central park was also in the making. This
horticultural masterpiece of 3.64 acres is divided into two
scenic parts: one that resides next to Villa Angiolina itself and
the second part which is next to the Church of Saint James.
The gardens simply flourish with approximately 150 different
plants, the majority of which come from distant parts of the
world such as Japan, China, South America, Australia and
other countries.
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OPATIJA
Ignio Scarpa, who built Villa
Angiolina planted these exotic
shrubs and trees thanks to his searoving
sailors who would scatter
across the world and return home
with new plants. The cedars,
sequoias, gingko, palms and oaks
are still flourishing today, making
this one of Croatia’s most important
dendrological collections. Amongst
the many interesting plants, there
is a Japanese Camellia (Camellia
japonica), which has with time,
become a symbol of Opatija.
Park Margarita
The second largest horticultural delight is Park Margarita
which was founded right after the year 1900. It spans 3.5
acres on the slope above Slatina. Its central part has been
entirely preserved, however there has been some damage
along the surrounding edges due to many renovations,
reconstructions and inappropriate building development.
Judging by the appearance of some of the plants (oak,
planika, Juda’s tree and others), you’d think that the park
was much older than Park Angiolina, however it is believed
that the original plants that were seeded here over a century
ago were already of age.
Franz-Jozef Promenade (Šetalište Franza Jozefa-
Lungomare)
One of the non-negotiable and must do activities in Opatija
is to walk at least part of the way along the Franz-Jozef
Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore
from Volosko 3km to the north, or in the opposite direction
to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky
coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens enriched
with beautiful samples of cypress, oak and palm trees as
well as ornate pre-World War I villas; the promenade offers
fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the
lush Gorski Kotar mountains brooding in the background.
The Carmen Sylva Forest Promenade
The 5 kilometre forest promenade on Mount Učka starts in
Potok (Vrutki) and continues to Vela Fortica (Varljeni). The
promenade was set up in 1890 under the name ‘Aurora’ and
broadened in 1901 under the initiative and financial support
of the Romanian King Karol and his wife Queen Elisabeth,
a poetess who found inspiration there and wrote under the
pseudonym Carmen Sylva.
The Opatija riviera
Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian
tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-
Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top
quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on
the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center
is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the
slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of
Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a
dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing
mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas.
As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive
from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.
Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked
central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and
maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season
destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes
crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional
souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of
top-class restaurants.
Summer 2012
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38 OPATIJA
They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the
key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount
Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with
the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj
protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the
winds that come in from the open sea.
Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect
getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its
natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days
this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of
a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every
hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools,
saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of
state-of-the-art beauty treatments. With major European
centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a
500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible
year-round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.
The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a
multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand
Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting
top international meetings for several decades while the
Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a nearlegendary
venue for high-level receptions and showbiz
events. The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta
and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities
to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all
numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.
Volosko
Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija
Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with
a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above
a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition
may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood
restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are
clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour
which provides moorings for small boats.
Lovran
Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is
Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a
historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the
fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding
girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas - many of which
have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or
boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely
cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.
Kastav
There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then
from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from
the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking,
with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay
to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija
in the middle distance.
Opatija Cafes
In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not
worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato.
This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving
outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around
here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee
usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino
are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a
bijela kava (white coffee).
Café Wagner Maršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium),
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, info@milenijhoteli.
hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Overlooking the sea at the
very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy
kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm
favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport
themselves on Wagner’s crescent-shaped terrace
whatever the weather. Q June - August 31 Open 07:00 -
24:00. September - February 29 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 22:00. March - May 31 Open 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. PALB
Choco bar Maršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel. (+385-
51) 60 35 62, chocobaropatija@kras.hr, www.
kraschocobar.com. Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate
manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting
destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff.
The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously
thick and luxuriant - in contrast to the vaguely browncoloured
milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside
regular tea-and-coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves
chocolate-plus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš
chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by
the box. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:30.
PAGB
Design hotel Astoria Ulica maršala Tita 174,
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, info@hotel-astoria.
hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. One of the funkiest spots in
Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take
your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine
touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big
terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PALB
Grand Cafe Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel.
(+385-51) 27 84 97, info@milenijhoteli.com, www.
milenijhoteli.hr. Plonked conveniently on Opatija’s main
thoroughfare, the comfy armchairs of the Grand Café
provide the perfect environment in which to tuck into
an extravagant array of cakes and pastries, backed up
by decent coffee and velvety hot chocolate. The handmade
sweets make great gifts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
PAB
Palme Ulica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol),
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 18, info@hotel-bristol.
hr, www.hotel-bristol.hr. Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant
plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house
with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are
phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special
doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00. PAGB
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Making the call
You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown,
and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you‘ve
decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local
Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit
number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear.
National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (051 if you’re
calling Rijeka for instance) followed by the subscriber’s
number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international
access code), the appropriate country code, a city or
area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number.
Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international
access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code
(dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number.
Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits
and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial
the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice.
For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your
international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the
0, and then dial the remaining 8 digits.
Street smarts
Street ulica Square trg
Road cesta Walk šetalište
Passage prolaz Way put
City centre centar Station stanica
Post
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re
right value for what you are sending and where.Once you put it
on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow
boxes attached to buildings around town.
Main post office D-2, Korzo 13, tel. (+385-51) 52 55
82. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Post office B-2, Krešimirova 7, tel. (+385-51) 52 57
21. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Post office Kozala D-1, Laginjina 38, tel. (+385-51) 51
44 46. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Express Mail
City Ex M-3, Milutina Barača 58, tel. (+385-51) 32
04 03, rijeka@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. Also at B-1,
Slaviše Vajnera Čiče 4b, tel. 32 03 36. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
DHL D-3, Verdieva 10, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 20/(+385-
51) 21 52 10, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Overseas Express Trtni 69, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 27
42 22, rijeka@overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Internet Cafes
Bluenet N-2, Franje Čandeka bb (Shopping centre
Andrea), tel. (+385-51) 67 16 03, bluenet2000@gmail.
com. Computer supplies and surfing in the western outskirts.
Printing, scanning and CD burning. Internet: 1h/12kn,
30min/8kn, 15min/5kn. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Fire department 93
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
MAIL & PHONES
Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10kn, Abroad 7.10kn
Postcards (standard) Croatia 1.60 kn, Abroad 3.10 kn
Mobile phones
Mobile phone use in Rijeka is typical to most everywhere
in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that
have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique
however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions
of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the
most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and
cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to
warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central
European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091),
T-Mobile (098, 099) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards
can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards
in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine.
T-Centar C/D-2, Korzo 32A, tel. (+385-) 0800 15
50, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Tele 2 D-2, Riva 2a, tel. (+385-51) 21 23 28, www.
tele2.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Vip D-2, Riva 4b, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.
vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
� Rijeka
telephone code is +385-51
Summer 2012
39

40 GETTING AROUND
Public transport
Buses. The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej.
Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg. and Delta
Terminal. They connect all the points you need the city
centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the
Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such
as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn;
they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your
ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 -
21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable
information, call 060 15 11 51.
Autotrolej, E-1, Školjić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14
00, 060 151 151, autotrolej@autotrolej.hr, www.
autotrolej.hr.
Train
Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka)
A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060
33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The train station is just outside
of the city centre, heading west along the coast road. Bus
numbers 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32 get you there from the centre.
Trains connect Rijeka with Budapest (via Zagreb), Ljubljana
and Ilirska Bistrica in Slovenia (via Opatija-Matulji) and Osijek
in east Croatia. The new HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has
good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and
connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket
office: International office in the central lobby, open 09:10
- 20:40 and domestic open 05:10 - 17:10, Fri and the day
before public holidays 05:15 - 20:00. Left luggage (lockers):
open 04:00 - 23:00, costs: 15 - 20kn per day.
Buses
Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor
Rijeka) C-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10,
prometnik@autotrans.hr, www.autotrans.hr. Coach
travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking
to explore the region on a shoestring. A large number of
Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing
number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass.
The bus station is on trg Žabica in the city centre. Although
small, it’s a hive of activity with everything you need on the
concourse including left luggage, toilets, exchange offices,
fast food outlets, newsstands and mini-markets. There is
a public phone on Platform 1 outside the ticket office, and
a couple of ATMs near the big church on the square. Take
a walk across to the church and you’ll also come across a
couple of pleasant cafes.
Ticket / information office open 05:30 - 21:00, tel. 060 30
20 10; (1,74 kn per minute), you should press “2” to contact
the operator.
Road help
HAK - Croatian Auto Club, tel. (+385-1) 1987,
hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing
service is available 24 hours a day. For road information
24 hours a day dial (+385-) 062 77 77 77; during summer
you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German.
www.inyourpocket.com
Car rental
Dollar & Thrifty C-2, Riva 22, tel. (+385-51) 32 59
00/(+385-51) 33 79 17, rijeka@subrosa.hr, www.
subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Express rent D-2, Trg maršala Tita 135, Opatija
(hotel Kvarner), tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42, info@
expressrentcroatia.com, www.expressrentcroatia.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
Hertz C-2, Zadarska 3b, tel. (+385-51) 31 10 98, rijeka.
dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
OTS N-2, Cavtatska 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 20 27/
(+385-) 099 352 06 46, ots.rac@gmail.com. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 08:00 - 16:00 and on
request, Sat, Sun on request. A
Airport
Rijeka Airport Hamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84
20 40, 84 20 55/(+385-) 060 30 03 01, information@
rijeka-airport.hr, www.rijeka-airport.hr. The small airport
(zračna luka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka with
flights to London, Stockholm, Cologne... Getting there:
Catch an Autotrolej bus from Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg
bana Jelačića, 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the
timetable. You can also take a taxi, or if you go by car there’s
parking. For the first three hours parking costs 8kn per hour
and each hour thereafter costs 2kn. A day parking ticket costs
66kn. Tickets for between 2-14 days cost 40 kn per day, and
each day after the 14th day costs 30 kn.
Airline offices
Croatia Airlines E-2, Jelačićev trg 5, tel. (+385-51)
33 02 07/(+385-51) 33 67 57, rjkto@croatiaairlines.
hr, www.croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Parking
Guarded parking.
Ferry passenger terminal: Luka, Riva Boduli. Pay on
departure. Parking 7kn per hour.
Indoor parking Zagrad, Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-
51) 21 29 62, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded
parking. Price per day: 80kn, 8kn per hour between
07:00 - 19:00 and 3kn per hour between 19:00 - 07:00.
Sun 3kn per hour.
Stari grad, Trg Ivana Klobučarića bb, tel. (+385-51)
31 51 55, www.parkingtim.hr. 24 hour guarded
parking. Price per hour: 10kn between 07:00 - 19:00 and
3kn between 19:00 - 07:00. Sun 3kn per hour durring
whole day. Daily maximum (24 hours) is 80kn per day.
HŽ Car Park, Žabica Square, tel. (+385-51) 32 01 70.
Unlimited parking. Pay from your mobile on 8513. Prices:
4kn per hour, or 20kn per day. Opposite the coach station.
Tower Centre Rijeka, Janka Polić Kamova 81a, tel.
(+385-51) 40 38 15. Free entrance.
� Rijeka
telephone code is +385-51
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

ijeka.inyourpocket.com
GETTING AROUND
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Summer 2012
41

42 GETTING DIVING IN AROUND THE ADRIATIC
Taxi
Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.
There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the
coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije
Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re
all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 -
30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter
you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage.
Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.
Auto taxi Rijeka N-1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-
51) 54 50 00.
Cammeo R-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-51)
31 33 13, info-rijeka@taxi-cammeo.hr, www.taxicammeo.hr.
Kvarner taxi, tel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.
Street parking/SMS Parking
Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment
by text message for parking! It’s so simple. Look for the
blue sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration
number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no
special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your
payment is confirmed when you get a message back from
them. Different zones have different max waiting times
- check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna
per hour. You can also pay at the machines, which accept
5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the
ticket on your dashboard.
Ferry
Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats
(brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands.
The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot
passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect
to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.
Jadroagent D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21
12 76, travel@jadroagent.hr, www.travel.jadroagent.
hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Jadrolinija C-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal),
tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q June -
September 30 Open Mon, Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 07:00
- 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. October - May
31 Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Losinia Riva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel.
(+385-51) 23 30 40/(+385-51) 23 10 77, info@
losinia.hr, www.losinia.hr. Venezialines agent. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.
Rapska plovidba Hrvatskih branitelja domovinskog
rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, rapskaplovidba@ri.t-com.hr,
www.rapska-plovidba.hr.
Petrol Stations (0-24)
INA - Mlaka O-2, Zvonimirova 8, tel. (+385-) 091
497 11 69, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
INA - Školjić E-1, Školjić bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 11
71, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A
OMV - Vrata Jadrana Rijeka roundabout - west,
tel. (+385-51) 22 50 56, www.omv.hr. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. A
Harbourmasters office
Lučka kapetanija D-3, Senjsko pristanište 3,
tel. (+385-51) 21 40 31, rijeka.pomorskipromet@
pomorstvo.hr, www.mmpi.hr.
Travel Agencies
Goya Travel C-2, Ciottina 5, tel. (+385-51) 25 89
75, goyatravel@ri.t-com.hr, www.goyatravel.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Jadrotours C-2, Dolac 9b, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 71,
jadrotours@ri.t-com.hr, www.jadrotours.hr. QOpen
08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Solen F-2, Strossmayerova 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 15 87,
solen@solen.hr, www.solen.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Towed away
If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If
this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on
Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street Ulice
A. K. Miošića - it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse.
Open 06:45 - 21:15, Sat 06:45 - 14:15. Closed Sun.
There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be
prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but
at least you can put it on your card.
Police 192
Ambulance 94
� Rijeka
telephone code is +385-51
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Diving Centre Kostrena
People have always been curious to discover the secrets
concealed by the sea. We know that the ancient Greeks
mastered the techniques diving for sponges and sea snails.
But the seabed is still very much uncharted territory, and
many people believe that the seas and the oceans conceal
the greatest mysteries of the planet.
On the Adriatic, diving has a history as long as mankind’s
dependence on the sea for its livelihood. We know, for
example, that towards the end of the 19th century people
from the island of Krapanj were using supple jackets when
diving for sponges. However, it was two brothers from Slovenia
named Ivan and Dušan Kuščer who popularised diving as
a recreational pastime. They published photographs and
writings documenting their underwater adventures in the
1930s, when they explored the northern Croatian coast using
diving equipment they had made themselves.
Why is it that people are so fascinated by diving? And what’s
all the fuss about the Adriatic Sea? At first glance, the Adriatic
may not look particularly colourful or rich in sea life compared
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Diving Centre Kostrena
DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC
Diving Centre Kostrena
with most tropical waters, for example. But as legions of diving
enthusiasts will confirm, the waters of the Adriatic definitely
have their own wonders and offer plenty to explore.
This is one of the cleanest seas in Europe with a combination
of characteristics that make it a wonderful haven for divers.
The Adriatic is shallow, warm and salty. The seabed is either
rocky, pebbly or sandy, and the water is so transparent that in
some places you can see for 60 metres. There are no strong
tides to contend with. However, there are strong currents in
places, mainly in channels where the water surges between
islands, as well as on the fringes of the islands.
Thanks to the forces of nature and of history there is a great
deal to be discovered under the calm blue surface of the
Adriatic. It is rich in flora and fauna, some of which is unique
to these waters. The seabed is made up of impressive
underwater rock faces and reefs and is dotted with
shipwrecks, archaeological finds and even the odd aeroplane
which has found its way down there. And this fascinating world
extends right along the length of the Croatian coast.
The northern part of the Adriatic is the most visited by
divers thanks to its shallow waters and lush vegetation. The
coastline around the Istrian peninsula is the last resting place
of a number of ancient vessels. The central and southern
parts of the Adriatic have deeper and more transparent
waters and spectacular underwater escarpments. Some of
the most attractive locations here are around the islands of
Vis and Hvar, the Kornati archipelago and in the Dubrovnik
area.
Scuba diving
Marine sport diving center Aleja Slatina 2,
Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 515 72 12/
(+385-) 091 293 24 40, info2@marinesport.hr,
www.marinesport.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Kostrena Diving Centre Rožići 1, Kostrena, tel.
(+385-51) 28 74 62, dckostrena@dckostrena.hr,
www.dckostrena.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Marine Sport Dive Center Aleja Slatina 2,
Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-) 091 293 24 40,
091 515 72 12, info2@marinesport.hr, www.
marinesport.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Dive City Braće Buchoffer 18, Crikvenica,
tel. (+385-51) 78 41 75, info@divecity.net, www.
divecity.net. Open Mon - Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 15:00.
Correct Diving Brzac 33, Malinska, Krk
tel. (+385-) 091 563 49 30, kontakt@correctdiving.com,
www.correct-diving.com. Open 09:00
- 18:00.
Summer 2012
43

44 DIVING IN THE ADRIATIC
Apart from these locations, some of the most interesting –
and dangerous – diving adventures are to be had in secret
underwater caves. Among the most beautiful of these are:
the Green Cave (Zelena špilja) on the island of Vis; the
Blue Cave (Modra špilja) on the island of Biševo; the Bear
Cave (Medvjeđa špilja) on Mali Lošinj, and Zaklopatica on
the island of Korčula.
Apart from exercising caution when diving in caves or other
potentially hazardous locations, divers should be aware that
diving is not allowed at the following places: harbours and
moorings, areas with heavy boat traffic, military zones, nature
reserves, nature parks, the Brijuni and Krka National Parks
and the islands of Palagruža and Jabuka.
Diving is allowed at the Kornati and Mljet National Parks
with a special permit. And you need prior permission from
the Ministry of Culture if you want to dive from the following
locations:
The islands of Vis, Biševo, Svetac, Brusnik, Sušak, Lastovo
and Palagruža
Around (within 300m of) the following shipwrecks: the Szent
Istvan, the Corida-nus, the BarenGautsch, the S-57
The archaeological sites at Žirje and Cavtat
So long as you have the right permit, you can dive as an
individual or as part of a group.
If you’d like to take part in an organized dive in Croatia, contact
a registered diving instructor, school or association (see
the list of diving centres at the end of this article). If you’re
going out diving on your own, be sure to properly mark the
spot where you dive with a surface marker buoy. Individual
divers must get a permit, which costs 2400kn, from the local
harbourmaster’s office. Sports scuba divers must not dive to
depths greater than 40m.
The Adriatic is not known for deadly sea creatures but
there are certain species which can give you an unpleasant
sting, so it is worth exercising caution. Do not try to feed
or otherwise disturb sea creatures since otherwise docile
characters may become aggressive if they perceive you as
a threat. It goes without saying that each and every diver is
responsible for protecting the fragile underwater environment.
Your aim should be to leave no trace of your dive when you
have finished.
Whether you’re interested in diving to shipwrecks, caves
or underwater rock faces, Croatia is a great destination
for diving. And thanks to modern diving equipment and
techniques, children as young as 10 years old can dive quite
safely, as can disabled divers. Just be sure before every dive
to check the rules for safe diving in that location, to avoid
putting your life – or anyone else’s – in danger. And of course,
before you begin, you’ll have taken your certificate so you
know exactly what you’re doing!
We wish you calm seas and a wealth of exciting dives!
Diving Centre Kostrena
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Boris Sekulić
To make sure that visitors to Rijeka have the chance to buy
original and memorable souvenirs from the city which have
artistic value in their own right, Rijeka’s Tourist Association
has created two labels to help you choose good quality
souvenirs. The labels carry the titles “Riječko izvorno” (“A
Rijeka Original”), and “Osobita kvaliteta” (“Special Quality”).
You can find these gifts for sale in the Tourist Information
Centre on Korzo.
Shopping centres & Malls
Ri Department Store D-2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33
72 16. This department store first opened in 1974 with
the intention of connecting a series of historical buildings on
Korzo and the Riva. The building crosses the busy street in
the city centre but often provokes ambiguous public reaction.
Its interior, which hosts many shops and cafes, unfortunately
isn’t well kept which is obvious to every visitor. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Tower Center S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel.
(+385-51) 40 38 15, infotcrijeka@gmail.com, www.
tower-center-rijeka.hr. This 4-storey shrine to consumerism
contains pretty much every Croatian and international highstreet
brand you’ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near
the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling
arcade and multi-screen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder
that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination
for the locals - especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few
places in town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No
2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Antiques
Mali neboder C-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21
31 98, antikvarijat@ri.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijatmali-neboder.hr.
Antique collectors ought to be delighted
as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin
monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more.
Take the time to find a classical bargain right here! QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August
31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Triton F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51)
37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, triton.antikviteti@
gmail.com. Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern
ornaments. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by prior
arrangement. A
Art galleries
Laval E-3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33,
antikvarijat.galerija.laval@ri.t-com.hr. Beautiful antique
furniture, art, ceramics and glassware. Q Open 09:00 -
13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Mala galerija E-2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03,
mala-galerija@ri.t-com.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr. Very
cute ceramics, jewellery, souvenirs including items bearing
Rijeka’s “morčić” emblem - this street was once the preserve
of artisans making this local jewellery. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Sina F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2a, tel. (+385-51) 37
20 02. A little gallery behind Hotel Continental selling Morčić
souvenirs and with paintings by a selection of Croatian artists.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Velčić D-1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-51) 33 21 49,
vvelcic@inet.hr. North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery
with the permanent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of
works by many other Croatian artists. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00,
16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Bookshops
Antikvarijat Ex-Libris D-2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-
51) 31 22 21, info@ri-exlibris.hr, www.ri-exlibris.hr.
Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva,
offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful
of English - language choices. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. A
Profil Superstore S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81a,
Tower Center, www.profil.hr. Multi-media store offering a
reasonable selection of English-language novels, and plenty of
attractively illustrated, international titles on art, architecture
and design. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. A
Ribook E-2, Janeza Trdine 9a, tel. (+385-51) 58 15
55, ribook@superknjizara.hr, www.superknjizara.hr.
Specialised in online sales. Internet café inside with free
internet use. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. A
Tisak Maršala Tita 103, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35
81, www.tisak.hr. The city’s best choice of international
newspapers and magazines, including plenty of glossy
English-language monthlies. Q June Open 08:00 - 22:00.
July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 23:00. September Open 08:00
- 22:00. October - June 08:00 - 21:00. A
VBZ C-2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 10, knjizararijeka@vbz.hr,
www.vbz.hr. A large bookshop in the old
town - get yer maps and guidebooks here! QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Verbum E-2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel. (+385-51) 31 60 50,
knjizara.rijeka@verbum.hr, www.verbum.hr. Specialising
in religious themes. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 -
13:00. Closed Sun. June 20 - July 31 Open 08:00 - 12:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Summer 2012
45

46 SHOPPING
Sanja Jakupec
Croatian design
Mari Cro design studio D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel.
(+385-51) 32 40 02, t.o.mari@ri.t-com.hr, www.maricrodesign.com.
If shopping is your forte then experience
a store that is intended for those who look for something
different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed
clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to
support the local industry. You’re sure to find something
chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian
designers. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. A
Delicatessen
Amec E-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55,
rijeka.korzo@dupin.hr. Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack
that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade
cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Kraš E-2, Korzo 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.
hr. Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite
and longest-standing firms. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. June 4 - September 30 Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Kušaonica Frajona C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13
33. Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try
the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of
international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste
the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were
there! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Pavlomir Novljansko polje bb, Novi Vinodolski, tel.
(+385-51) 24 80 33. Selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters -
try herb and fig. Also wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 08:00
- 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September
15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
Piko delicije E-2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25/
(+385-51) 65 03 54, pik.rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.
pikrijeka.hr. A super chain of shops selling a vast array of
teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your
coffee instead! QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00,
Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A
Pip E-2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.
pip.hr. Home produced honey. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Vinoteka 1 E-3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39
24/(+385-51) 21 12 31, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www.
blato1902.hr. An atmospheric old shop on the market where
you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.
QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A
Zeleno i plavo - Delicije našega kraja C-2, Trpimirova
1A, tel. (+385-51) 32 25 98, zeleno.i.plavo@ri.t-com.
hr, www.zelenoiplavo.hr. A delectable variety of Croatian
goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorje led this
enchanting store to win several awards. There are so many
goodies to choose from, including a huge range of syrups,
wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical
delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole
prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and
woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range
of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood
designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned
regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift!
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Hypermarkets
Getro N-1, Škurinjska cesta b.b., tel. (+385-51) 66
05 55, www.getro.hr. The cheapest place to stock up for
armageddon - or buy your booze to take back home. QOpen
07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. A
Plodine Q-2, Ružićeva 29, tel. (+385-51) 35 28 15,
plodine@plodine.hr, www.plodine.hr. A good quality, large
supermarket. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. A
Music and DVDs
Croatia Records E-2, Užarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21
22 62, www.crorec.hr. Mainstream record store run by
Croatia’s biggest record label, offering plenty in the way of
pop and rock - both domestic and international. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Dallas Records E-2, Splitska 2a, tel. (+385-51) 33
25 24, www.dallasmusica.com. Staffed by music fans,
this is your best bet if you’re seeking out a specific album or
DVD. Particularly strong on alternative rock. Q Open 09:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Stamp collecting
Filatelija F-1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26.
Impress the girls (or boys) with your collection. Q Open 09:00
- 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Dry cleaners & Laundries
Blitz O-3, Mate Lovraka bb (centar Plodine), tel. (+385-
51) 34 30 64. Self service launderette. Also at Kumičićeva
47a, tel. 40 37 89, Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Super 24 C-2, Ciottina 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 33 80.
Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Zambelli D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 62.
Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Emergency health care
Klinički bolnički centar Rijeka A-2, Krešimirova 42,
tel. (+385-51) 65 81 11, www.kbc-rijeka.hr. Rijeka’s
general hospital.
Zavod za hitnu medicinsku pomoć PGŽ N-2,
Branka Blečića bb, tel. (+385-) 112. 24-hour emergency
health care.
Pet hotels
Happy Dog M-2, Šibenska bb, tel. (+385-) 098 960 42
62/(+385-) 091 167 11 67, www.happydog.hr. Dogs
hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. N
Šapice outskirts, Zubinići 160a, Veprinac, Ičići, tel.
(+385-) 099 229 93 77/(+385-) 098 965 83 30, info@
sapice.hr, www.sapice.hr. Dogs hotel. Q Open by prior
arrangement. N
Pets
Veterinary clinic Rijeka P-2, Stube Marka Remsa 1,
tel. (+385-51) 34 50 33, vet.st.ri@ri.t-com.hr. During non
working hours and night shifts vet is on duty on tel: 091/ 214
88 22 which you can call in case of an emergency. QOpen
07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
Pharmacy
Night shifts are covered by the Centar Pharmacy and you will
find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national
holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr.
Centar D-2, Riva 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 01. QOpen
07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Kazalištu E-2, Uljarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 79.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Korzo D-2, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36. QOpen
07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Emergency number 112
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY
The In Your Pocket iPhone App
A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now
available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Developed
in association with Meta4Labs, the apps
combine all the best features of In Your Pocket
guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and
independent information - with the functionality
of the iPhone.
You can search all venues in a city by location,
and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest
to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content
offline. We even supply high-resolution static
street and transport maps (exactly the same
as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your
Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge
roaming charges.
Other features include fully integrated Google
Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, embedded
In Your Pocket video guides, currency
exchange calculator and local weather information.
All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res
graphics for iPhone 4.
And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are
updated regularly by local researchers and
native English speaking writers. More than ten
In Your Pocket cities are currently available
as iPhone apps, and more are being released
all the time.
Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac
now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and
on your iPhone.
Summer 2012
47

48 BUSINESS HEALTH TOURISM DIRECTORY
Banks & Exchanges
Erste & Steiermarkische Bank C-2, Jadranski trg 3a,
tel. (+385-) 062 37 50 00, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Hypo-Alpe-Adria C-2, Jadranski trg 3, tel. (+385-) 062
10 11 02, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Free info 24 hours on
0800 49 76 47. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun.
Volksbank D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 31
76 30, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Zagrebačka banka E-2, Ante Starčevića 10, tel.
(+385-51) 35 40 01, www.zaba.hr. ATMs - A. Manzoni 1,
Žrtava fašizma 10, Žabica bb. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.
Brokerage houses
Fima vrijednosnice Q-3/C-2, Adamićeva 13, tel.
(+385-51) 58 37 54, rijeka@fima.com, www.fimavrijednosnice.hr.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business connections
HGK - Županijska komora Rijeka F-1, Bulevar
oslobođenja 23, tel. (+385-51) 20 91 11, hgkri@hgk.
hr, www.hgk.hr. County Chamber. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Poduzetnički informativni centar D/E-2, Trg Svete
Barbare 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 20 96 19, pod-info-centar@
rijeka.hr, www.rijeka.hr. Business Information Centre.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign representations
Austria E-2, Stipana Konzula Istranina 2, tel. (+385-51)
33 85 54. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Chile D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 24
24/(+385-51) 21 24 20. QOpen , Mon 07:30 - 12:00.
Denmark C-2, Splitska 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 25 22,
danski-konzulat@ri.t-com.hr. QOpen 11:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Hungary D-3, Riva Boduli 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 34 94,
transadria@transadria.hr. QOpen , Tue, Thu 11:00 -
13:00.
Italy D/C-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 35 52 00/(+385-
51) 35 52 01, cons.fiume@esteri.it, www.consfiume.
esteri.it. For an emergency call 098 / 41 46 02 or 098 41
40 48. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, Tue 08:30 - 12:00, 13:30 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Norway E-1, Žrtava fašizma 2/II, tel. (+385-51) 33 58
27. QOpen 08:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Serbia C-2, Erazma Barčića 9, tel. (+385-51) 33 74
20/(+385-51) 33 74 21, konzulat-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr,
www.konzulat-srbije-rijeka.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Sweden C-2, Riva 20/3, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 87.
QOpen , Tue, Thu 13:30 - 15:30.
The Netherlands E-2, Ulica 9. rujna 11, Opatija, tel.
(+385-51) 27 19 77, agency@drakar.hr. QOpen , Tue,
Fri 09:00 - 12:00.
� Rijeka
telephone code is +385-51
Interpreters & Translators
Ciklopea C-1, M. K. Kozulić 2/3, tel. (+385-51) 68 81
61, info@ciklopea.com, www.ciklopea.com. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Lingua - Soft D-2, Korzo 30, tel. (+385-51) 31 10
00, www.lingua-soft.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. N
Real estate
Dogma B-1, Ciottina 24b, tel. (+385-51) 34 10 80/
(+385-51) 34 10 81, info@dogma-nekretnine.com,
www.dogma-nekretnine.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Kvarner B-1, Slaviše Vajnera Čiče 18, tel. (+385-51) 21
26 53/(+385-51) 32 33 12, info@kvarner-nekretnine.
hr, www.kvarner-nekretnine.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun by appointment.
Lider plus D-1, D-2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-51) 30
10 44/(+385-) 091 132 40 33, lider.plus@ri.t-com.hr,
www.lider.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Tax
Tax VAT(PDV) in Croatia is 25% and affects payments
made on all goods and services except bread, milk,
books, and various charitable enterprises. Employers
are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all
taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income
up to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2
200kn and 8 800kn and 40% for a net income higher
than 8 800kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable,
meaning that the law determines them on the basis of
the deductions allowed, an amount that changes once
a year. City surtax is applicable; Zagreb residents are
taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from
the employee‘s gross income and the employer pays an
additional 17.20%. The minimum start-up capital for a
limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of
20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits the capital into a
temporary account with an authorized business bank.
Once the company is Croatian registered business,
the founder can freely transfer such funds into regular
company accounts.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868
when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island
of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to
health and wellbeing.
Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety
of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the
Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for
people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the
19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by
the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889,
Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort.
Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica,
Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as
a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea
salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is
very beneficial for the respiratory system.
The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed
the development of seaside tourism as we know it today.
Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing
can find the following services here: seawater treatments
(thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal
waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental
surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either
independently or within hotels.
Health tourism has great potential for future development in
this region due to the well-preserved natural environment,
the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff,
medical services which meet European quality standards,
prices which are significantly lower than in many other
developed countries and proximity to most European
capitals.
Basics
For all information related to health tourism, accommodation,
events, gastronomy, culture and more, call into any tourist
information centre in the region, or read more at www.
inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/hotel, www.inyourpocket.
com/croatia/rijeka/concerts-culture-events-entertainments
and www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/food-drink.
Climate
The region surrounding Rijeka and Opatija falls within
Primorsko-Goranska County, which is divided into three
geographic regions: the coastal belt, the uplands region
and the islands.
The uplands region (known as Gorski kotar) is thickly
forested with a wealth of flora and fauna and a large national
park, Risnjak. With no polluting industry and very sparsely
populated, this region has sparkling-clean air and a sub-
Alpine climate. In the summer months, this is a great place
to enjoy refreshing breezes and cool nights - a good night’s
sleep is guaranteed!
The coastal region occupies a crescent-shaped belt
encompassing the gulf of Rijeka and the Vinodol channel.
It stretches from the foot of Mount Učka, skirting the hills
that fringe Gorski kotar to the north and northeast. Here, a
mild and pleasant Mediterranean climate is tempered by
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
HEALTH TOURISM 49
Thalassotherapia
the proximity of the mountains. In the winter months the
strong, cleansing bura wind blows from the north. There’s
a considerable amount of rain in winter, and snow is not
unknown. This temperate climate results in a proliferation
of trees and plants that makes this coastline so attractive
and the air so healthy. The island region is divided into two
island groups. These comprise Cres, Lošinj and a number of
smaller islands in the west, and an eastern group including
Krk and Rab and several uninhabited islets. The climate on
the islands is warmer and drier than on the mainland, and
the environment no less pleasant for that. The four largest
islands just mentioned enjoy more than 217 clear days on
average every year. The sea temperature during the summer
months is an enjoyable 26°C, while in the winter experienced
sea swimmers brave bracing waters at 18°C.
Disabled Guests
All public parking areas have marked spaces for disabled
drivers. In Rijeka most major junctions are equipped
with signal-controlled pedestrian crossings, 49 of which
have audible signals enabling blind and partially-sighted
pedestrians to cross safely.
The City of Rijeka provides transport services for disabled
residents and tourists through the Autotrolej transport
company. Please call 0800 11 66 Monday - Friday from
07:00 to 13:00 to arrange services, which run from 07:00
to 20:00 Monday - Thursday, and from 07:00 to 23:00
Friday - Sunday. Services run each day of the year, including
public holidays.
Transport services cover the city of Rijeka, and it is also
possible to arrange a ride to the following public health
institutions outside the city: the thalassotherapy facilities
in Opatija and Crikvenica, the orthopaedic clinic in Lovran
and the psychiatric hospital in Lopača. More information
(Croatian only) on www.autotrolej.hr.
Most beaches have facilities for disabled bathers, including
wheelchair access, disabled toilets and ramps for entering
the sea. Licenced lifeguards are on duty on busy public
beaches. Some hotels have rooms which are fully adapted
for disabled guests, while many restaurants, swimming pools
and campsites have wheelchair access.
Summer 2012

50 HEALTH TOURISM
Arriving to Kvarner
Rijeka is an important transport hub. It has a railway and
coach station, a busy port and an international airport (the
latter is located on the nearby island of Krk, and is accessible
by road bridge). Rijeka is just a few hours’ drive from the
following cities: Budapest, Ljubljana, Milan, Munich, Venice
and Vienna. For more information on how to get to Rijeka by
air, sea, car, coach and rail please see www.inyourpocket.
com/croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport.
If you are coming to the Opatija riviera by car from the
direction of Zagreb, your best bet is to bypass Rijeka and
travel a further 15km to the west, thus avoiding city traffic.
If you’re coming from the direction of Italy or Slovenia, take
the turn for Opatija at Matulji. If you’re travelling to Crikvenica,
Selce or Novi Vinodolski, bypass Rijeka and use the coastal
road that heads to the south, which is signposted for Split
with yellow local route signs (don’t follow the green signs
which will take you inland onto the motorway).
If you’re arriving by air, you can reach the city centre by
catching the Autotrolej bus or by taking a taxi. See www.
inyourpocket.com/croatia/rijeka/arriving-transport for
more information.
If you’re arriving at Pula airport, head for the city main coach
station at Trg I. Istarske brigade; from here you can catch
frequent bus services serving Rijeka, Opatija, Crikvenica and
Novi Vinodolski. For timetable information check out www.
autobusni-kolodvor.com.
Getting around
From Rijeka you can travel to the Kvarner islands by ferry
and passenger boat: see www.jadrolinija.hr for timetables.
Krk island is connected to the mainland by a road bridge
which lies about 50km south from the city. Follow signs for
the airport or Krk.
The main coach station in Rijeka is on the Žabica square.
Frequent services run from here to resorts on the Opatija
Riviera, the islands and other parts of the Kvarner coast.
There are also direct bus services from the airport to Opatija
and Kraljevica. The timetable for these local bus services is
on www.autotrolej.hr.
Icing on the Cake
Following your treatment you will probably want to make
the most of your stay. You can take full advantage
of your surroundings by exploring and sightseeing,
enjoying outdoor sports, and sampling the local cuisine
and culture.
The region around Rijeka has a great deal to offer. One of
the best exercises for anyone recuperating from medical
treatment is walking in the fresh air. Around Rijeka, there
are long seaside promendades connecting Opatija
with its surrounding resorts, in the Crikvenica and Novi
Vinodolski areas, and on the islands (Lošinj in particular
has over 130km of signposted footpaths). For those
feeling up to something a little more energetic, there are
upland hiking and biking trails.
Apart from that, the area has a wealth of attractive
diving sites: read more about them in Diving in the
Adriatic. There are national parks and nature parks, and
many other sites of great natural interest and beauty
to explore. Added to that, there’s the healthy, delicious
local cuisine and a range of excellent wines to sample.
With all this in mind, we’ve selected a number of places
which we feel are particularly worth visiting. We hope
that this will help you decide how to make the best use
of your free time while you are here.
www.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay
Authentic Baška Zvonimirova 62, Baška, tel.
(+385-51) 85 61 25, info@authenticbaska.com, www.
authenticbaska.com. Newly renovated old houses in the
Baška historical quarters, 7 apartments decorated in the
coastal style as preserved ancient elements combine with
the new.
Balatura Mali Sušik 2, Tribalj, tel. (+385-51) 45 53 40,
fax (+385-51) 45 53 44, info@hotel-balatura.hr, www.
hotel-balatura.hr. An interesting hotel in the village of Tribalj,
6km inland along the Vinodol valley. This small hotel has been
created in a 300-year old building by a German family looking
for their oasis far from the pressures of modern life. A great
place to enjoy peace and good home cooking.
Kukuriku Trg Lokvina 3, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 69 15
19, fax (+385-51) 69 18 23, info@kukuriku.hr, www.
kukuriku.hr. Located in the heart of Kastav, a rich wine and
gastronomy offer, carefully designed rooms and furniture,
each room has a different aromatic code.
Nada Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, fax (+385-
51) 85 72 05, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www.nada-vrbnik.hr.
Apartments set in old stone houses with restored furniture,
backyards filled with Mediterranean plants, a true oasis and
an escape from the busy everyday life.
Runolist Travnička 3, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-) 091 205
67 29, runolist.crnilug@gmail.com, www.runolist.
gorski-kotar.com.hr. Head to the mountains for some
peace and quiet, wooden mountain cottages in the Gorski
kotar area with all the necessities you could consider. Only
30km from the sea.
Available treatments
A wide range of treatments and programmes are available
in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological
recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and
more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a
wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty
treatments and more. There are also a number of centres
offering thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are
based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine
goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries,
as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to
private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health
insurance system.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

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HEALTH TOURISM
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52 HEALTH TOURISM
Clinics & Hospitals
Katunar Dr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel.
(+385-51) 78 51 32, poliklinika.katunar@inet.hr, www.
crikvenica-info.com. All-round heath care services, checkups,
tests, samples and more. Website available.
Medico E-1,E-2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/
(+385-51) 26 39 91, medico@medico.hr, www.medico.
hr. State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full
diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email. Q A
Medikol grupa O-3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51)
68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, pet-ct@medikol.hr,
www.medikol.hr. Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised
medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via
phone or email.
Pro Vita C-2, Trpimirova 2/1 , Rijeka, tel. (+385-51) 35
24 60, poliklinika.pro-vita@ri.t-com.hr, www.poliklinikaprovita.hr.
Full range of specific and general examinations,
check-ups also available. Full details on website or contact
via email.
Villa Elite Nova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27
10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran.zgaljardic@gmail.
com, www.zgaljardic.net. Hospital clinic for maxillofacial,
general and plastic surgery. More info via website.
Zambelli E-1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75
55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, dm@mariozambelli.com,
www.mariozambelli.com. Specialising in aesthetic surgery,
modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via
phone or email.
Organic & Natural
Bio&Bio D-2, Ivana Zajca 24, tel. (+385-51) 32
14 82, www.biobio.com. Eco/Organic food products,
supplements and cosmetics store. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
L’occitane C-2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30
32, www.loccitane.hr. Natural French cosmetics from
the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend
immortelle based beauty line for adult skin. QOpen
08:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
LS Kozmetika, prirodna@lskozmetika.hr, www.
lskozmetika.hr. Natural handmade cosmetics used for
healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-
Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island
hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the
Muškardin pharmacy.
Nikel, www.nikel.com.hr. Natural cosmetics line,
61 products, find them in all dm-shops and selected
pharmacies. More info via website.
Dentists
Dental Studio Vukanović K-3, Lošinjska 16, tel.
(+385-51) 71 80 60, stom.ord@hi.t-com.hr, www.
dental-vukanovic.hr. A complete list of dental services with
the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.
Dentin - Dr. Jasminka Bočina M-2, Kršinićeva
16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, info@ordinacija-bocina.
hr, www.ordinacija-bocina.hr. Private dental practice,
aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.
Dentorium D-2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51
75, info@dentorium.hr, www.dentorium.hr. Specialists
in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all
the information. Q A
Dent Vitalis O-3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 37 10
64, info@dentvitalis.com, www.dentvitalis.com. Centre
for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details
are on their website. Q A
Dr. Blašković R-2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62
17, info@blaskovic.com, www.blaskovic.com. Dentistry
is the key as they offer complete dental services. View their
website or contact via phone or email.
Dr. Jelušić Matuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)
71 80 50, dr@jelusic.com, www.jelusic.com. Centre for
dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their
website or contact via email.
Dr.Karolina Kokić Borić Ivana Zajca 4, Krk, tel.
(+385-51) 22 12 83, karolina.kokic@ri.t-com.hr, www.
ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. All dental treatments, aesthetic
dental work, all ages. More info via website.
Dr. Prpić F-2, Strossmayerova 3, tel. (+385-51) 37
71 35, www.dentalprpic.hr. Private dental practice offers
dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or
contact them via email or phone.
Kalamar Implant Dentistry Izviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-
51) 26 23 63, info@kalmar.hr, www.dental-tourismcroatia.co.uk.
All types of dental treatment, surgery and
therapy on offer. Visit their website.
Pavličević - Kustić Preradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel.
(+385-51) 24 15 22, info@pavlicevic-kustic.hr, www.
pavlicevic-kustic.hr. Family tradition, all dental procedures
on offer. More info on their website.
Rident M-2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64
89 00, info@rident.hr, www.rident.hr. All necessary dental
treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them
for more information.
Škodadent M-2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37
66, info@skodadent.com, www.skodadent.com. Private
clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.
Smile Studio M-2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86
78, info@smilestudio.hr, www.smilestudio.hr. Varied
dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website
for details.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health & Spa
Gordana Poščić R-3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-
51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 09, info@fizio-gp.hr,
www.fizio-gp.hr. Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre
with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website
or contact them via email.
Laurana Spa Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel.
(+385-51) 29 38 51, fax (+385-51) 29 34 51, info@
wellness.hr, www.centar.wellness.hr. Medical wellness
centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp
showers and gym. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Terme Selce 1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel.
(+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, info@
terme-selce.hr, www.terme-selce.hr. If you decide to
do something for your long term health and wellbeing by
enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility,
you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable onsite
apartments complete with kitchenette and internet
connection. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30.
Closed Sun. (4 apartments). A
Thalassotherapia Crikvenica Gajevo šetalište 21,
Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 77 77, fax (+385-51) 40
77 63, narucivanje@thalasso-ck.hr, www.thalasso-ck.
hr. Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment
of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.
Thalassotherapia Opatija Maršala Tita 188/1,
Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, thalassotherapiaopatija@ri.htnet.hr,
www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com.
The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism - it’s
connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa
and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija
villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully
decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy
restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Wellness
Wellness centres offer a great range of services ranging from
medical treatments, beauty programs and relaxing remedies.
Comfort Zone Spa & Wellness Aurora Sunčana
uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), www.losinj-hotels.
com. Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools,
facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.
Comfort Zone Space Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4 (Grand
Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. Choose from relaxation
treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers
and saunas, fitness.
Five Elements Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija
(Hotel Ambasador), www.liburnia.hr. Wellness with
water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage
showers, and ice fountain.
Five Elements Ma rina Aleja Slatina 2, Moščenička
Draga (Hotel Marina), www.liburnia.hr. Wellness
dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals
(Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.
Novi Spa Hotels & Resort, www.novi.hr. The largest
wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages,
swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty
treatments. The rejuvenation haven!
Health Tourism Agency
Croatia Medical Travel Milutina Barača 20, tel.
(+385-51) 34 30 59, info@croatia-medical-travel.
com, www.croatia-medical-travel.com.
www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2012
53

54 HEALTH TOURISM
Alternative medicine
Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent
supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia,
some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the
area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law
regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an
association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual
healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative
medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped.hr,
you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of
alternative medicine.
Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and
widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart
from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy
medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and
oriental massage.
Fitness & Beauty
Kantrida V-3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools),
tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, kantrida@blue-gym.com,
www.blue-gym.com. Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness,
massage, medical programs. Q June, September Open
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July - August
31 Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.
Scipion Milutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68
45 76, sirola@scipion.hr, www.scipion.hr. Physiotherapy,
recreation and physical preparation of athletes. Q Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun - (physiotherapy).
Events
August
Krk island fig festival
If you’re on Krk around the end of August, this festival
gives you the chance to sample all kinds of food and drink
based on the sweet, sweet fig in its fresh and dried forms.
September
A Walk through Autumn
Walking enthusiasts can take part in an unforgettable
walking tour in the middle of September. A signposted
trail takes you through rural landscapes and olive groves,
historic villages and fields surrounded by ancient dry
stone walls. You can call in at family smallholdings
offering excellent home-cooking. Apart from all that, in
Krk town there’s a market with hiking equipment and
authentic local and organic delicacies for sale.
www.inyourpocket.com
Field trips
Birdwatching
In this region there are several sites where you can spot
birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture
which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information,
see Birdwatching Croatia.
The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island
Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known
of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part
of the island. Since the waters around the island have been
designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of
the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the
Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org),
visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli
Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one!
Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This
attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich
in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s
authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive
culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85
21 07 or 84 83 44.
Mount Učka
The forested slopes
of Mount Učka offer
a variety of ways to
spend your free time
in the open air. Učka
is a nature park with
50 hiking trails and 8
mountain bike trails. The
park boasts a wealth
of wildlife and offers
some of the best views
around: you can see
the entire Kvarner gulf
with its islands laid out
at your feet, and on a
clear day the view south
extends as far as the
Velebit mountain range.
More info on www.
pp-ucka.hr.
The Tramuntana I path at Beli, Cres island
12km long, this path leads through about 10 educational
stations, including the Caput Insulae Eco Centre at Beli
where you can learn about the island’s wildlife and culture.
The path then leads to the mediaeval church of St Simeon,
an ancient Illyrian settlement, and oak and sweet chestnut
forests. Along the way you can read about natural and cultural
heritage points of interest. For more information, call
(+385-51) 84 05 25.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Go Gourmet
The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh,
simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The
cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean
in character, and as such is low in saturated fats,
with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains
monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping
arteries healthy. Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage,
rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking.
The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful
seasonal fruits and vegetables. Most families prepare
food from fresh ingredients at home. All of this means that
people from Croatia’s coast are often enviably healthy.
While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice
piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types
include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina
(scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna
(meaning obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt,
similar to anchovies).
Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food
people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be
offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce,
home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with
beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets.
Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear
steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do,
it’s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried
blueberries or prunes. You may come across unusual
items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible
dormouse (puh).
Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special
treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of
Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto
(pršut) is irresistible.
When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include
smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs;
presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from
the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is
famous for (lovranski maruni).
Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of
wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from
Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat.
Dobra vina Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 40 10 34, info@
dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. For all wine lovers,
wide range of Croatian and international wines. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Goranska borovnica Belo selo, Fužine, pkozlica@
inet.hr, www.goranska-borovnica.com. Family run
farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit
liquors, dry fruits.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
HEALTH TOURISM 55
Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, tel. (+385-51)
85 71 42, info@gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr. An
agricultural collective which has a winery, a highly-regarded
restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room. This is a
great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both
try and buy their wines and spirits.
Kastavski spomeni Jurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel.
(+385-51) 69 16 53/(+385-) 098 988 14 14, info@
kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www.kastavski-spomeni-to.
hr. Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find
delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades,
liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs.
Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Luketić vina Čavle 37, Čavle, www.luketic.hr. Winegastro
shop, they offer carefully selected wines and other
interesting items for that special occasion.
Manjon Rukavac 60, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 74 24
60, helicikultura@gmail.com, www.helicikultura.
com. If you’re fond of tucking into a meal of snails, head for
the inland village of Rukavac, just north of Opatija, where
the Cvjetković family will treat you to home-cooked snails
à la bourguignonne, snails cooked in sauce in the Istrian
style, snail salami snail paté and more.
Natura Rab Barbat 677, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72
19 27, www.natura-rab.hr. Organic products from the
island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products
and oh so more.
OPG Magriž 17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51)
85 13 51. Traditional methods to produce krčki sir
(Krk cheese), wine and olive oil. Buy their products at the
‘Zeleno i plavo’ shop in Rijeka.
OPG Pintar Narodnog oslobođenja 32, Čabar, info@
pintar.hr, www.pintar.hr. Offering different cheeses
such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice
without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc.
Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice.
Rijeka Fish Market. Get in bright and early for that
fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and
dynamic, a true picture of this port city.
Sirana Runolist Špilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel.
(+385-53) 77 11 77, tomaic-commerce@gs.t-com.
hr, www.sirana-runolist.com.hr. Say ‘cheese’! 100%
natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese,
Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese
and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the
Rijeka Market.
Vidmar Mlinari 5, Vrbovsko, tel. (+385-51) 21 90
15, epz@epz.hr, www.epz.hr. Ecological honey, honey
mixtures with propolis, honey liqueurs, ecological crèmes
to name a few. Purchase their products at the Zeleno i
plavo shop and at the Rijeka Market.
Summer 2012

56 HEALTH TOURISM
Horse riding, Jelenje
Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at
Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses,
more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods,
half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to
know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself
with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina
river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub
Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091
255866, kk.vodicajna@gmail.com.
Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad
The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological
formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to
the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an
opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving
mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms
and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second
attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil’s Pass.
This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild,
foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges
the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come
to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and
a small underground lake.
Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6
motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr.
The Frog Museum, Lokve
This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this
upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always
played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the
less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on
someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created
by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain
an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role
in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The
little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in
the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba),
Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-51) 83 10
99, (+385-) 098 998 63 52, muzejzaba@net.hr, www.
muzej-zaba.info. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 12 - 15kn.
Brseč, near Opatija
A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the
sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from
the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower
are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid
view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the
of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail
leads from the town direct to Sisol.
Jadranovo, near Rijeka
This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly
coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal
mud in the Lokvišće bay.
The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar
Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and
three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here:
wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take
part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as
indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National
Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-51) 83 61
33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr.
Lokve
A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find the
largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje
cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name.
The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to
the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years
old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock
formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the
“Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the
summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance
where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.
tz-lokve.hr.
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sport
Adventure sports
Travelana D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. (+385-51) 21
27 80/(+385-51) 33 65 62, travelana@ri.t-com.hr,
www.travelana.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Sailing
Yacht Club Croatia Maršala Tita 151, Opatija, tel.
(+385-51) 27 12 88, aci@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr.
Swimming
Kantrida Swimming Pools Podkoludricu 2, tel.
(+385-51) 66 66 00, bazeni-kantrida@rijekasport.hr,
www.rijekasport.hr/BazeniKantrida. Q Open 06:15 -
08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wen, Fri 06:15 - 08:00,
12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00
- 19:00. 10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.
Beaches
Dog Beach Woof! Woof! Dog owner’s shed delight as a
500m2 beach has been set aside for our four legged canine
friends! Facilities include special beach access, rubbish
bins with PVC rubbish bags and a rubber pipe dog shower.
Please follow and abide all outlined rules.
City Beach. In 2011 a new city beach was created in
Rijeka. The beach at Kantrida is right below the new indoor
swimming pool. You could bathe there last year, but now
it’s really looking good. There are clean pebbles to bathe
from, a pleasant promenade planted with Mediterranean
shrubs, there’s disabled access, and a sandpit for children.
It has already become a favourite spot for city folk to enjoy
the great outdoors, especially at sunset.
Tennis
Kvarner Ede Jarasa 27a, Marčeljeva draga, tel. (+385-
51) 62 16 01, info@tkk.hr, www.tkk.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00. Price per hour 30 - 60kn.
rijeka.inyourpocket.com
HEALTH TOURISM 57
Grobnik
Summer 2012

58 KVARNER
Primorje
Crikvenica
Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along
the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial
architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns
around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better
days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star
of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of
the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the
former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which
gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local
dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home.
A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and
respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However,
Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive -
as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the
large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely
popular resort today, and a great destination for families with
kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play
area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there
is a small charge for entry).
Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the
monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until
1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens
surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8,
tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00, July - August
31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 30kn) is beautifully
laid out and really fascinating.
Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather
similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty
of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are
just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.
Martina Jajčević
Novi Vinodolski
This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol
valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with
fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting
the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of
Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were
once important centres during feudal times, and all have
incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine
Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.
You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning
the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight
and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it
must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and
the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower
belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a countrystyle
church with a lovely square where you can look out
over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan
fortress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important
legal document protecting the rights of commoners from
feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back
to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of
sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for
this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the
type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe
that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a
simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.
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ijeka.inyourpocket.com
KVARNER
Summer 2012
59

60 KVARNER
Islands
Dražen Mimica
Why wouldn’t you hop to one of these while in Rijeka?
Cres
The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at
home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast
with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.
Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by
the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural
environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.
The mountainous north of Cres shelters the Eco centre
Caput Insulae at Beli, a non-profit organisation dedicated
to protecting the natural environment of the Griffin Vulture
- this is one of this rare bird’s last habitats in Europe - and
helping the birds themselves to survive. Despite their scarysounding
name, Griffon Vultures are carrion-eaters, i.e.
they only eat dead flesh, and as such they are valuable in
preventing the spread of disease. The centre runs volunteer
programmes and hosts two permanent exhibitions: The
Biodiversity of the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago and The History
of Beli and Tramuntana (the northen part of Cres, a karst
region carpeted with sage and forest and grazed by sheep).
Check out www.supovi.hr to find out more. Moving south,
you come to Cres town, today’s capital of the island. The
gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s
long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian
Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and
1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one
of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385
51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and
prehistoric and Roman artefacts.
The town’s main square has been renovated, and the
atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a
large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although
it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.
A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun
brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of
picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away
from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute
delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet
was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in
Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant
restaurants. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres
is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels),
the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely
not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the
backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of
metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow
shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb
back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most
determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting
exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.
Moving south again towards the point where a short road
bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by
beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since
it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally,
Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre
of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the
sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see
modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if
you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music
Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now
houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.
Krk
So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the
bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but
also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its
western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from
north to south, is where most larger resorts are located.
Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for
the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre,
while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements
mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your
holidays here without realising exactly how much the island
has to offer.
Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island
was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful
dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of
the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on
your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the
5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the
island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others
with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. The
Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and
Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions
of great historical significance have been unearthed, or
can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with
lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape
of mushrooms and cherries!
Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely
little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see,
it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for
crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just
under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.
Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a
site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century.
Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus,
Dubravka Zaja
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Mariko Kolarz
protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel
of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover-leaf shape
on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an
impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a
collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open,
you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs
onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with
blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the
venue for summertime cultural happenings.
Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of
Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan
monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic
collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section
with some stuffed animals with too many appendages
that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and
cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth
taking a taxi boat over.
Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming!
Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and
you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of
clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland
is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind
the crowds at high season.
For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik,
topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny
emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow
streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street
in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where
žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made
for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the
overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned
everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.
Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.
If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour
to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way
to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when
you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The
view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide,
stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests
of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls,
and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is
the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open
to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water
seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.
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KVARNER
unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring
possibly the world’s first miniskirt , or to Susak’s larger
neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak -
carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a
relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including
a festival of olive oil.
Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali
Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful
fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built
by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic
plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The
villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an
arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the
world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around
the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal
thalassotherapy facility there today.
Rab
Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are
just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading
about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid
lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander
along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps
around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes,
but Rab really is that pretty.
OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.
One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it
gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it
gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.
Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small
children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So
be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in
the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting
humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel
under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come
across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach
to suit everyone.
Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the
journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through
scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you
generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family
hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned
amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is
very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we
highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities
at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant
resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or
sightseeing or other dining opportunities.
Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the
superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow
peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the
Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream
stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.
The summer season is punctuated with historical displays
of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings,
there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and
a couple of clubs.
Lošinj
You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a
while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the
largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine
villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around
are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere
around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting
a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat
to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an Duje Klarić
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62 STREET REGISTER
Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2
Adamićev gat C-2, C-3
Agatićeva E-1, E-2
Alda Colonnella E-1
Alessandra Manzonia A-1
Ante Starčevića E-2
Baštijanova P-2
Bečko pristanište B-2
Blaža Polića B-1
Bošket U-1, U-2
Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2
Brajda A-1
Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2
Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1
Ciottina B-1, C-2
Dalmatinska E-2
De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3
Delta F-2
Demetrova D-3, E-3
Dolac C-2, D-2
Drage Šćitara V-2
Drenovski put P-1
Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2
Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1
Fiumara Q-3 / E-2
Fra Serafina Schona V-2
Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1
Frana Supila D-1, D-2
Franje Brentinija F-2
Franje Čandeka N-2
F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2
Frankopanski trg U-1
Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3
Glavinićeva U-1, V-1
Gomila D-1
Grivica E-2
Grobnička cesta R-1
Grobnička riva E-3
Grohovo E-1
Ignacia Henckea D-2
Industrijska M-3, N-3
Istarska J-3
RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus
1 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole
2 University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
3 Maritime and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace
4 City Museum
5 Natural History Museum
6 Palace of Justice
7 St. Vitus’ Church
8 St. Sebastian’s Church
9 Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum
10 The Roman Arch “Old Gateway”
11 Old Town Hall in Rijeka
12 Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower
13 “Modello” Palace
14 Main market
15 Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc”
16 Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas
17 City Tower
18 “Ploech” Palace
19 Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes
20 Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery
21 Railway station
22 P/B “Uragan”
23 State archives Rijeka
Istarsko pristanište C-2
Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2
Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1
Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1
Ivana Grohovca E-1
Ivana Rendića B-1
Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3
Ive Marinkovića C-1
Jadranski trg C-2
Janeza Trdine E-2
Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3
Jelačićev trg E-2
Josipa Kulfaneka R-2
Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2
Kalvarija E-1
Kastavska G-1
Kazališni park E-3
Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2
Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2
Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2
Križanićeva F-1
Kružna C-2
Kumičićeva R-3, S-3
Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1
La Guardia B-1
Liburnijska L-3
Linićeva V-1, V-2
Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3
Ljudevita Matešića B-1
Lorenzov prolaz D-1
Lošinjska K-3
Marka Remsa P-2
Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3
Matačićeva E-3
Matije Gupca E-2
Meštrovićeva L-2
Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3
Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2
Miroslava Krleže J-2
Mljekarski trg E-2
Moše Albaharija B-1
Muzejski trg D-1
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Nikole Tesle A-1
Nova Cesta L-2, M-2
Nova Ciottina C-1
Orlandov gat 3-A
Osječka N-1, O-2
Park Nikole Hosta D-1
Park Vladimira Nazora D-1
Partizanski put U-1
Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2
Pavlinski trg E-2
Petra Zrinskog U-1
Pod kaštelom D-1
Pod voltun D-2
Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1
Preluk G-2, G-3
Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1
Pul vele crikve E-2
Put Bože Felkera V-1
Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2
Radićeva U-2
Ribarska E-2
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Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2
Riva boduli D-3
Ružićeva F-1
Scarpina Q-3 / E-2
Senjsko pristanište D-3
Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1
Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2
Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2
Splitska C-2
Stipana konzula Istranina E-2
Strohalova D-1, D-1
Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2
Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2
Studentska B-1
Šenoina V-1,V-2
Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2
Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3
Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2
Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4
Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1
Šime Ljubića D-2
STREET REGISTER
Školjić E-1
Titov trg F-1
Tizianova O-2, P-2
Tome Strižića S-2
Trg Grivica E-1
Trg Ivana Koblera D-2
Trg Jurja Klovića D-2
Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2
Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2
Trg Svete Barbare E-2
Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1
Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2
Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2
Trninina E-3
Trpimirova C-2
Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1
Uski prolaz B-2
Uskočka riva E-2
Užarska E-2
Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3
Verdieva D-3
Veslarska E-2
Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1
Vinka Benca M-2, N-2
Viškovo L-1
Vodovodna E-1
Vrlije V-1
Vukovarska N-2, O-2
Wenzelova E-3
Zadarska C-2
Zagrebačka D-3
Zametska L-2, M-2
Zanonova C-2, D-2
Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1
Zvonimirova M-2, N-2
Žabica B-2, C-2
Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1
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