Perm and neutralise hair - Doczine

VRQ
Perm and
neutralise hair
UV20512
Y/600/8537
Learner name:
Learner number:

Statement of unit achievement
VTCT is the specialist awarding body for the Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy,
Complementary Therapy and Sport and Active Leisure sectors, with over 45
years of experience.
VTCT is an awarding body regulated by national organisations including
Ofqual, SQA, DCELLS and CCEA.
VTCT is a registered charity investing in education and skills but also giving to
good causes in the area of facial disfigurement.
By signing this statement of unit achievement you are confirming that all learning outcomes, assessment
criteria and range statements have been achieved under specified conditions and that the evidence
gathered is authentic.
This statement of unit achievement table must be completed prior to claiming certification.
Unit code Date achieved Learner signature
Assessor tracking table
Assessor name Assessor signature
Assessor
initials
Assessors
initials
IV signature
(if sampled)
All assessors using this Record of Assessment book must complete this table. This is required for
verification purposes.
Assessor number
(optional)

UV20512
Perm and neutralise hair
It is the aim of this unit to develop your skills to create
a variety of looks using basic perming techniques. You
will learn how to assess your clients’ hair by identifying
influencing factors through consultation techniques. This
will enable you to identify the correct products, techniques,
tools and equipment to use to suit your clients’ needs. You
must also demonstrate that you can work on both long and
short hair.
Part of this service is to provide your clients with good
aftercare advice.
UV20512_v5

Level
Credit value
GLH
2
7
60
Observation(s)
3
External paper(s)
1

Perm and neutralise hair
Learning outcomes Evidence requirements
On completion of this unit you will:
1. Be able to prepare to perm and neautralise
hair
2. Be able to perm and neutralise hair
1. Environment
Evidence for this unit must be gathered in a
real or realistic working environment.
2. Simulation
At least 75% of ‘Observation’ outcomes
must be on real clients.
3. Observation outcomes
Competent performance of ‘Observation’
outcomes must be demonstrated to your
assessor on at least three occasions.
4. Range
All ranges must be practically demonstrated
or other forms of evidence produced to
show they have been covered.
5. Knowledge outcomes
There must be evidence that you possess
all the knowledge and understanding
listed in the ‘Knowledge’ section of this
unit. This evidence may include projects,
assignments, case studies, reflective
accounts, oral/written questioning and/or
other forms of evidence.
6. Tutor/Assessor guidance
You will be guided by your tutor/assessor
on how to achieve learning outcomes and
ranges in this unit. All outcomes and ranges
must be achieved.
7. External paper
Knowledge and understanding in this unit
will be assessed by an external paper.
The criteria that make up this paper are
highlighted in white throughout this unit.
There is one external paper that must be
achieved.
UV20512
3

4
Achieving observations
and range
Achieving observation outcomes
Your assessor will observe your performance
of practical tasks. The minimum number
of observations required is indicated in the
evidence requirements section of this unit.
Criteria may not always naturally occur during
a practical observation. In such instances you
will be asked questions to demonstrate your
competence in this area. Your assessor will
document the criteria that have been achieved
through oral questioning.
Your assessor will sign off an outcome when all
criteria have been competently achieved in a
single client service.
Achieving range
The range section indicates what must
be covered. Ranges should be practically
demonstrated as part of an observation. Where
this is not possible other forms of evidence may
be produced. All ranges must be covered.
Your assessor will document the portfolio
reference once a range has been competently
achieved.
UV20512
Maximum service times
The following maximum service times apply to
this unit:
All perm wind techniques
(winding only)
45 minutes

Outcome 1
Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair
You can:
a. Prepare yourself, the client and work area
for perming and neutralising
b. Use suitable consultation techniques to
identify service objectives
c. Assess the potential of the hair to achieve
the desired look by identifying the
influencing factors
*May be assessed through oral questioning.
Observations
Observation 1 2 3
Date achieved
Criteria questioned orally
Portfolio reference
Assessor initials
Learner signature
UV20512 5

6
Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.
Outcome 2
Be able to perm and neutralise hair
You can:
a. Communicate and behave in a professional
manner
b. Select and use products, tools and
techniques, taking into account factors
influencing the service
c. Section and wind the hair, taking meshes
to suit the perm rod size to achieve the
desired look
d. Wind the hair with even tension, making
sure all wound perm rods sit on their own
base
e. Monitor the development of the perming
and neutralising processes, following
manufacturers’ instructions
f. Leave the hair free of perm lotion when the
desired degree of curl is achieved, using
water temperature and flow to suit client’s
needs
g. Follow safe and hygienic working practices
h. Provide suitable aftercare advice
*May be assessed through oral questioning.
Observation
Date achieved
Criteria questioned orally
Portfolio reference
Assessor initials
Learner signature
1 2 3
UV20512

*You must practically demonstrate that you have:
Range
Used all perming and neutralising products Portfolio reference
Barrier cream
Pre-perm treatments
Perm lotions
Neutralisers
Post-perm treatments
Considered all contra-indications Portfolio reference
History of previous allergic reaction to perming products
Other known allergies
Skin disorders
Incompatible products
Medical advice or instructions
Performed all hair tests Portfolio reference
Elasticity
Porosity
Incompatibility
Skin
Development
Considered all influencing factors Portfolio reference
Temperature
Direction and degree of movement required
Hair condition
Hair texture
Hair length
Hair density
*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not
possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.
UV20512 7

8
Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.
*You must practically demonstrate that you have:
Used all sectioning techniques Portfolio reference
Directional
Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes
9 section
Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes
Brick
Maximum service time (winding only) 45 minutes
Provided all types of advice Portfolio reference
Suitable aftercare products and their use
Use of heated styling equipment
Time interval between services
The effect of perming on other services
*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not
possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.
UV20512

Achieving knowledge outcomes
You will be guided by your tutor and assessor
on the evidence that needs to be produced.
Your knowledge and understanding will be
assessed using the assessment methods listed
below:
• Observed work
• Witness statements
• Audio-visual media
• Evidence of prior learning or attainment
• Written questions
• Oral questions
• Assignments
• Case studies
Achieving the external paper
Developing knowledge
Where possible your assessor will integrate
knowledge outcomes into practical observations
through oral questioning.
The external paper will test your knowledge of the criteria highlighted in white. A pass mark of
70% must be achieved. Criteria not achieved will be identified to your tutor/assessor. You will then
be orally questioned or asked to produce other forms of evidence as all unit criteria must
be achieved.
Your assessor will complete the following table when the 70% pass mark has been achieved.
Paper Date achieved Assessor initials
1 of 1
UV20512 9

10
Knowledge
Outcome 1
Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair
You can:
d. State the factors that need to be considered when perming and
neutralising hair
e. Describe the salon’s requirements for client preparation, preparing
yourself and the work area
f. Describe the different consultation techniques used to identify the
service objectives
g. Explain the importance of carrying out the necessary tests prior to
and during the service and recording the results
h. Explain the importance of following manufacturers’ instructions
i. Describe the range of perm and neutralising products, tools and
equipment
*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned.
Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.
UV20512
Portfolio reference /
Assessor initials*

Outcome 2
Be able to perm and neutralise hair
You can:
i. Describe the effects of perm lotions and neutralisers on the hair
structure
j. Outline the factors that determine the use of different types of
perming and neutralising products, tools and equipment
k. Explain how temperature affects the perming process
l. State the importance of accurate timing and thorough rinsing of
products
m. Explain when and why it is important to use pre-perm and postperm
treatments
n. Explain the factors that influence the choice of sectioning
techniques and different sized perm rods
o. Explain the method of checking curl development
p. Outline the types and causes of problems that can occur during
the perming and neutralising processes and how to resolve them
q. Outline safe and hygienic working practices
r. Describe the aftercare advice that should be provided
s. State how to communicate and behave within a salon environment
*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned.
Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.
Portfolio reference /
Assessor initials*
UV20512 11

12
Unit content
This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you
to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the
opportunity to cover all of the unit content.
Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair
Preparation of self: Clothes (salon
requirements for uniform, clean/ironed
clothes, non-restrictive, closed-in low
heeled shoes), hair (clean, healthy,
manageable, off face), personal hygiene
(clean body, teeth, workable length
clean nails, deodorant, no overpowering
perfume/aftershave), personal protective
equipment (gloves, apron, prevent
dermatitis), minimal jewellery, positive
attitude, ready to greet.
Preparation of client: Remove client’s
outer clothing, protect against damage,
client relaxed and comfortable (posture,
aids service), remove excessive jewellery
(avoid damage to jewellery or skin), gown,
towel, plastic cape, barrier cream, ensure
client comfort, record card.
Preparation of work area: Chair,
trolley, work station, equipment cleaned,
appropriate sterilisation (barbicide,
autoclave, UV, sterilising spray), complete
destruction of all living organisms on tools
and equipment, disinfection (remove
contamination from hard surfaces, large
work areas, floors and work surfaces),
heat or chemical methods, use of trolley,
safe professional presentation tools and
equipment, visual check on large and small
equipment, electrical equipment checked,
portable appliance test, select height of
chair/basin.
Consultation techniques: Use a variety
of methods to ensure suitability of service,
product and technique.
Questioning – open, closed, probing.
UV20512
Language – appropriate level for client,
use of technical/non-technical language.
Client expectations/needs – listen, clarify,
advise, plan.
History of hair – hair tests, touch, feel,
look of hair.
Advice – what will work, what will not?
Use visual aids – shade charts, style
book, portfolio, collection of pictures.
Service objectives – amount of curl
required, shape of curl, length of hair,
longevity of service.
Assessing the potential of the hair:
Clarify the condition of hair, previous
chemical services, benefit to client, identify
influencing factors, test hair, compatible
with client’s lifestyle, review findings,
what will work and what will not, draw
conclusions, create a plan.
Factors that influence services: Previous
chemical services, percentage of grey,
client requirements, tools and equipment,
presence of added hair, maintenance of
style suitability.
Hair condition – dry, greasy, normal,
virgin, chemically treated, elasticity
(strength of hair), porosity (damage to
cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture).
Hair cut/style – uniform layer, one length,
short graduation, long graduation.
Temperature – body heat, salon
temperature, added heat.
Texture – fine, medium, coarse.

Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)
Length – short, medium, long.
Density – fine, medium, thick.
Growth patterns – cowlick, widow’s peak,
nape whorl, double crown, male pattern
baldness.
Skin tone – fair, medium, olive, dark.
Face shape – oval, round, square, oblong,
heart, pear.
Head size – large, medium, small.
Existing curl – tight, soft, wave.
Lifestyle – job, family, financial, time.
Test results – good, bad, caution, positive,
negative.
Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can
prevent/alter service, product, technique.
Types of condition – skin disorders
(disease, infestation, infection, defect,
bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites).
Skin sensitivities – reaction.
Allergies – latex, nut, plasters, perfume,
oil.
History of allergic reaction – positive
reaction to skin test, colour service.
Incompatible products – metallic salts,
previous chemical treatments.
Medication – prescription medication.
Medical condition – high blood pressure,
pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer.
Hair condition – chemical, heat damage,
environmental.
Hair disorder – contagious/noncontagious.
Skin disorder – contagious/noncontagious,
cross-infection (stylist to client,
client to stylist).
Contagious:
Bacterial – impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow
crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis
(yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pus
filled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or
under skin).
Viral – warts (raised, rough skin, brown),
herpes (blisters).
Fungal – tinea capitis/ringworm (patches,
pink/grey, scaly, broken hair).
Animal parasites – pediculosis capitis
(head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood),
scabies (parasites, mites).
Non-contagious:
Psoriasis – over production of skin cells,
dry, silvery, scales.
Cicatrical alopecia – scar.
Alopecia totalis – complete hair loss.
Male pattern baldness – hair recedes at
hairline or loss at crown.
Traction alopecia – excessive pulling,
brushing curling and straightening.
Alopecia areata – stress, bald patches
(seborrhea – excessive oil).
Dandruff – itchy, white, skin cells.
Dry scalp – white, powdery.
Eczema/dermatitis – allergic reaction to
detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping.
Acne – raised bumps and spots.
Defects of the hair:
Fragilitas crinium – split, dry ends.
Monilethrix – beaded hair.
UV20512 13

14
Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.
Outcome 1: Be able to prepare to perm and neutralise hair (continued)
Trichorrhexis nodosa – rough, swollen,
broken shaft.
Sebaceous cyst – sebum filled lump.
Damaged cuticle – dull hair.
Salon health and safety legislation
and regulations: Health and safety at
work, control of substances hazardous
to health, reporting of injuries diseases
and dangerous occurrences, personal
protective equipment, electricity at work,
manual handling, supply of goods and
services, trade description, data protection,
employers liability (compulsory insurance),
occupiers liability, local by-laws (set by
council), salon rules, code of conduct,
observance by all staff.
Hair tests: Use manufacturer’s
instructions, salon guidelines, before during
and after service.
What each test checks for:
Elasticity test – tensile strength, internal
strength of hair.
Porosity test – ability to absorb product,
moisture loss from hair.
Skin test – allergic reaction to chemicals.
Pre-perm test curl – suitability for service,
size and shape of curl.
Incompatibility test – check for presence
of metallic salts, suitability of further
chemical services.
Development test curl – monitor the
development of the perm.
Test cutting – check suitability of colour
choice.
Testing and recording results: Record
card up-to-date and accurate, essential
information, for future reference,
UV20512
professional image, legal implications.
Following manufacturers’ instructions:
On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart,
ensures successful service, storage
(temperature, location, light), handling
(correct mixing), use (application, removal),
disposal (dilution products, recycle
empties), prevents legal action.
Range of perm lotions: Acid, alkaline,
exothermic, varieties available (virgin,
resistant, normal, coloured, fragile).
Range of neutralising agents: Based on
hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate.
Range of products used during the
perming process: Barrier cream, preperm
treatment, cleansing/clarifying
shampoo, anti-oxidant conditioner, perm
lotion, neutraliser agent.
Range of tools and equipment used for
perming and neutralising:
Perm curlers (various sizes) – spiral
perm curlers, bendy rods, plastic perm
rollers, plastic pin curl clips.
Equipment – pintail comb, wide tooth
comb, sectioning clips, end papers, cotton
wool, drip tray, plastic bowl/neutralising
sponge, towels, tissue paper, personal
protective equipment (disposable gloves,
apron and cape), tension rods, climazone.

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair
Professional communication in a salon
environment: Try to avoid technical
language, always respond, consider client’s
confidentiality.
Verbal – speaking (tone of voice, the
language you use, how quickly, clearly),
questioning (open, closed, probing).
Non-verbal – body language, positive
attitude (your posture, facial expressions,
hand gestures, the distance you stand),
listening (be patient, try to understand).
Written – visual aids, magazines, client
records.
Behave professionally in a salon
environment: Follow health and safety
practice and procedure, salon code of
conduct, respect others, value client(s), cooperate
with others (be sympathetic, fair,
not aggressive), use appropriate language,
avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality,
polite/cheerful and friendly manner, friendly
facial expressions, open body language,
positive attitude, eye contact, sensible
behaviour, team work, pride in work,
punctuality, employer and client loyalty.
How to choose a suitable product:
Choice of lotion, strength of lotion,
condition of hair, hair texture, degree of curl
or movement required, record of previous
treatment, manufacturer’s instructions.
Sectioning techniques:
Nine section – methodical winding, hair
sectioned into ‘9’ sections (most used
method).
Directional – supports the style, rollers to
be placed in the same direction as finished
result.
Brick – rollers placed in a brick formation,
avoids partings, good for keeping hair back
off of the face.
Taking a meche of hair during perm
winding: Sections to be same width and
length as curler or rod.
Winding techniques: Croquinole (points
to roots), spiral winding (roots to points),
wind at 90 degrees, even tension, curler
wound parallel to section, long hair –
wiggle when winding, curler to sit on own
base.
Size of perm curler: Variation of rod size,
diameter of curler, various sizes – colour
coded, green the smallest (very small, tight
curl, short hair), black the largest (large
bouncy curl/root lift).
Monitor the process: Accurate timing,
use timer, perform regular development
test curl, check for “S” or “C” formation,
manufacturer’s guidelines, prevent legal
action, successful result.
Development time: Manufacturer’s
guidelines, variation on each product, point
when desired curl is achieved.
Following manufacturers’ instructions:
On bottle, packaging, leaflet, colour chart,
ensures successful service, storage
(temperature, location, light), handling
(correct mixing), use (application, removal),
disposal (dilution products, recycle
empties), prevents legal action.
Why it is important to rinse neutralising
products from hair: Sulphur bonds will
not reform fully, incorrect result achieved,
creeping oxidation, deterioration of hair
condition.
Removal method – use manufacturer’s
instructions for individual products,
thorough rinsing, average time 10 minutes,
long hair requires longer rinsing, check for
UV20512 15

16
Photo courtesy of Wahl UK Ltd.
Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)
successful removal, no remaining smell,
hair in rod loses its oily feel.
Water temperature and flow: Check
temperature on wrist, warm water, flow
not too strong (create splashing), confirm
client comfort through rinsing, water too
hot (burn hair and scalp), water too cold
(uncomfortable for client), cool/warm water
recommended for neutralising.
How to follow safe and hygienic working
practices:
Maintaining a safe salon – clean,
tidy, safe standards of working, remove
spillages, report slippery surfaces, remove/
report obstacles, clear access to trolleys
and equipment, clean/sterilise/disinfect
tools, equipment, work surfaces, no
smoking, eating, drinking or drugs in salon,
professional personal hygiene.
Personal protective equipment –
wear protective equipment, avoid latex,
powdered gloves, apron.
Electricity at work – visual check of
equipment, no trailing wires, portable
appliance testing.
Manual handling – moving stock safely,
lifting, working heights, unpacking.
Towels – wash regularly, clean for every
client, place dirty towels in covered bin.
Reporting of injuries diseases and
dangerous occurrences – accident book,
reporting diseases, log accidents.
Control of substances hazardous to
health – store, handle, use, disposal,
replace lids, ventilation for vapour and
dust, avoid overexposure to chemicals, use
manufacturers’ instructions for use.
Disposal of waste – sharps box, closed
UV20512
top bin, dilute chemicals with running water,
environmental protection, salon policies for
hazardous waste, single use items, recycle
empties.
Product storage – check end date/
packaging, store away from heat/damp/
direct sunlight, empties avoid theft.
Provide suitable aftercare advice:
Important part of service, avoid technical
language, maintain eye contact, suggest/
advise/recommend, provide information.
Maintenance – frequency of visit, regular
services, minimise chemical treatments,
correct use of electrical equipment, product
use and demonstration.
Effects of perm lotion on the hair
structure:
Softening stage – opens, swells, lifts the
cuticle scales, alkaline product.
Moulding stage – deposits hydrogen
into cortex, hydrogen attaches to the
disulphide bonds, disulphide bonds break
into individual sulphur bonds, from cystine
to cysteine, amino acids, takes shape
of the perm curler, amount of disulphide
bonds broken varies per lotion type,
approximately 20%.
Fixing stage – oxidation process, removal
of hydrogen by the addition of oxygen,
oxygen joins with hydrogen to make water
(H O), water floods out of cortex, disulphide
2
bonds reformed, acid pH.
The effects of temperature on the
perming process:
Heat – speeds up processing time, helps
to open/swell cuticle scales, manufacturer
requirement, some are self heating, some
need additional heat.

Outcome 2: Be able to perm and neutralise hair (continued)
Cold – slows down processing time.
Type of heat:
Body heat – client feeling cold, warm, hot,
perspire through scalp.
Salon temperature – summer, winter,
central heating, air conditioning.
Additional heat – climazone, hood dryer,
use of towels.
The importance of accurate timing:
Manufacturer’s instructions, prevents over/
under processing, prevents deterioration of
hair condition, successful result.
Pre-perm treatments: Porosity leveller,
used prior to perming, evens out porosity,
even penetration of perm lotion into cortex,
hair more pliable, available in individual
sprays/bottles.
Post-perm conditioners: Acid pH, antioxidant
conditioner, restores natural pH,
prevents creeping oxidation, closes/smooth
cuticle, applied after final neutralising rinse.
The types and causes of problems:
Perm slow to develop – re-apply lotion,
apply added heat.
Skin sensitivity – remove lotion
immediately, rinse cool water, advise client
to visit doctor.
Perm curlers fall out – replace rod, add
tension rod, net.
Fish hooks – cut ends of hair.
Frizziness – restructurant conditioner, cut.
Uneven curl – re-perm if condition allows.
Curl too loose – re-perm if condition
allows.
Curl too tight – relax if condition allows.
Breakage – restructurant conditioner, cut.
Straight areas – re-perm if condition
allows.
Loss of hair colour – apply semi/quasi
after neutraliser.
Rubber band markings – monitor,
use tension rods in future, restructuring
treatments.
UV20512 17

18
UV20512
Notes
Use this area for notes and diagrams