Formulating with Cationic Emulsifiers in Skin Care and Sun Care

Formulating with 

Cationic Emulsifiers in 

Skin Care and Sun Care

Cationic Emulsifiers: An Emerging Trend in Skin Care and 

Sun Care 

Historical 

Initially, the skin care market was dominated by soap based emulsions; Triethanolamine and Stearic Acid were common in most skin 

care formulas. Nonionic emulsifiers increased the formulation opportunities by expanding the scope of compatible functional materials. 

In today‘s market, cationic emulsifiers are broadening the range of aesthetics available to the formulator. 

The use of cationic emulsifiers is not a new concept. In fact, the application area first seen in the market was skin care for babies. 

Mennen marketed this line under the trade name Baby Magic using two cationic emulsifiers [1]. S.C. Johnson & Son launched the 

second cationic emulsifier based product, Curel ® . The success of this product is due to the unique sensory profile that cationic 

moieties offer. Cationic emulsions give a smooth powdery after-feel that allows high active loadings without sacrificing efficacy. 

This brochure will facilitate the selection of the Goldschmidt Personal Care cationic emulsifier that is most suitable for the desired 

application. 

Product Data 

Characteristics 

Cationic moieties have typically been associated with hair care for conditioning. In this application, they impart lubricity, antistatic 

properties and smoothness to the hair fibers. These properties plus excellent emulsifying properties, substantivity to the skin, 

renewable raw materials and a good cost/performance ratio are increasing the interest in these well known ingredients for skin 

care applications. 

As the use of cationic emulsifiers grows, there is increasing interest in expanding the sensory options available by modifying the 

cationic moiety in a formulation. In selecting a cationic emulsifier, there are some points to consider: 

• Long chain or dialkyl quaternaries are milder on the 

skin than shorter chain monoalkyl analogues [2]. 

• The hydrophilic/lipophilic ratio must be appropriate 

for the components in the formula. 

• Long chain cationics are better emulsifiers. 

• Cationics may be used alone or with co-emulsifiers. 

• These emulsifiers are safe for use in skin care 

formulations. 

Excellent performance profiles recommend the use of three cationic materials as emulsifiers in skin care products: VARISOFT ® TA 100, 

VARISOFT ® PATC and TEGO ® Care CE 40. VARISOFT ® TA 100 (INCI: Distearyldimonium Chloride) is a dialkyl quaternary, 

while VARISOFT ® PATC (INCI: Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) and TEGO ® C a r e C E 4 0 (I N C I: C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (a n d) 

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) are amidoamine quaternaries. TEGO ® Care CE 40 use level is higher than its pasty counterpart, 

but TEGO ® Care CE 40 offers better handling properties in the laboratory and plant settings. 

2

Product Type Structure [3] 

VARISOFT ® TA 100 

(Distearyldimonium 

Chloride) 

Dialkyl quat 

+ 

CH 3 

CH 3 

(CH 2 

) 16 

CH 2 

N CH 2 

(CH 2 

) 16 

CH 3 

CI - 

CH 3 

+ 

VARISOFT ® PATC 

(Palmitamidopropyltrimonium 

Chloride) 

TEGO ® Care CE 40 

(Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium 

Chloride) 

Amidoamine quat 

Amidoamine quat 

plus fatty alcohol 

O CH 3 

CH 2 

(CH 2 

) 14 

C NH(CH 2 

) 3 

N CH 3 

CI - 

CH 3 

Sensory – Why to Use Cationic Emulsifiers 

The classic use of cationic products has been to improve conditioning properties of the hair fiber. Cationic products may also be 

used as O/W emulsifiers for skin care. This functional transfer of some properties from traditional hair to skin care applications 

provides an innovative and economical platform to the formulator. 

The consumer demographic shift over the next fifty years will lead to more than doubling of the 60 + segment, making this an 

attractive market for skin care product manufacturers. A major concern for this segment of the market is maintaining skin moisture. 

There are three strategies a formulator may follow to achieve this effect: the use of a skin barrier repair agent, humectants and high 

lipophilic loadings. Often, moisturization is achieved via high lipophilic loading. The presence of a high oil phase, however, can 

impart an unpleasant oily or greasy and heavy skin feel. Cationic emulsifiers will mask these negative sensory properties, with the 

specific aesthetics determined by the choice of cationic emulsifier. In general, sensory properties for these emulsions are powdery, 

smooth and dry. 

The formula in Figure 1 was used to characterize the unique sensory profiles for Distearyldimonium Chloride and Palmitamidopropyltrimonium 

Chloride described above. 

Cationic Lotion (ADP-5545-40) 

Water 74.60 % 

Sodium Chloride 0.05 % 

Glycerin 7.65 % 

Cationic Emulsifier 4.75 % 

Petrolatum 4.55 % 

TEGOSOFT ® P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4.25 % 

TEGO ® Alkanol 16 (Cetyl Alcohol) 3.75 % 

ABIL ® 350 (Dimethicone) 0.40 % 

Preservative, Parfum 

q.s. 

Formula 1 

3

Formulating with Cationic Emulsifiers 

Formulating with cationic emulsifiers is straightforward and similar to the techniques employed with the traditional nonionic 

emulsifiers. They can either be added to the water or the oil phase. Similar to other hydrophilic O/W emulsifiers, additional 

stabilization of the formulations is achieved by incorporating consistency enhancers such as Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl 

Stearate or Stearic Acid. The addition of low levels of a monovalent salt, such as Sodium Chloride, may yield improved viscosity 

response and emulsion stabilization. Polyquaterniums will also help to improve long-term emulsion stability [4]. Cationic emulsifiers 

are incompatible with anionic moieties, such as carbomers. These materials should be avoided or their use minimized. 

Cationic emulsion systems, as do other O/W systems, incorporate lipophilic ingredients to stabilize and provide body to the 

emulsion. Stabilizers in high amounts might create non-homogenous systems and could be visually not acceptable. We know from 

experiments not shown here that some formulations show increased stabilization and viscosity increase with a low amount of a 

monovalent salt such as Sodium Chloride. 

Applications 

Daily Wear 

O/W cationic emulsion systems are used in facial, hand & body, baby, foot care and first aid products on the market. The unique 

sensory effects of this type of system are readily perceived by consumers and make these products well suited for daily wear to 

protect and care for the skin. 

Non-irritant 

Safe to use 

Long lasting 

Protection 

Dry 

Cold weather 

Stressed skin 

Hands working with water 

4

Long lasting moisturization 

A comparison of the moisturizing properties of nonionic versus cationic emulsifiers was conducted by an outside laboratory. The 

data below outlines the results from a moisturization study comparing TEGIN ® Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE) against VARISOFT ® TA 100 

(Distearyldimonium Chloride). The moisture measurements were taken using a corneometer over a 12 hour period using 11 

panelists. 

The formula in Figure 2 was used as the test formulation in this study. 

Test Formulation 

A Emulsifier 5.00 % 


TEGOSOFT ® OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 5.00 % 


B Glycerin 6.00 % 

Preservative 

q.s. 

Water ad 100 

Figure 2 

Test lotions were applied to the back of the forearm twice a day. The amount applied was 2 mg/cm 2 . Corneometer readings were 

taken hourly. TEGIN ® Pellets were selected as representative of a common emulsifier system. The results indicate that during the 

initial 8 hours of the study the TEGIN ® Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE) showed an increased performance but fast decline. In contrast, 

the cationic VARISOFT ® TA 100 shoed long last in performance. After more than 9 hours the cationic film showed superior 

performance. The rate of moisture loss is 2.6 times less with VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride). This result is most 

likely due to VARISOFT ® TA 100‘s ability to form a substantive durable film on the skin. 

Moisture difference to 

control [mg/cm 2 ] 

25 

20 

15 

10 

5 

0 

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 

Hours after application 

Based on Distearyldimonium Chloride 

Based on Glyceryl Stearate SE 

Figure 3: Based on Distearyldimonium Chloride 

5

Guideline formulation 

Several formulations have been made using cationic emulsifiers in the daily wear category. This includes the use of actives: 

Cationic Lotion with HyaCare ® (ADP-5615-194) 

Deionized water 74.28 % 

HyaCare ® (Sodium Hyaluronate) 0.02 % 

NaCl 0.05 % 


VARISOFT ® TA-100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) 4.75 % 


TEGOSOFT ® P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4.25 % 


Dimethicone 0.40 % 

Preservative 0.30 % 

Formula 2: O/W cationic emulsion – containing VARISOFT ® TA 100 and HyaCare ® 

Cationic Foaming Lotion with Creatine (ADP-5545-160) 

A VARISOFT ® PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) 6.00 % 

TEGO ® Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) 2.00 % 

TEGOSOFT ® HP (Isocetyl Palmitate) 6.00 % 

TEGOSOFT ® DC (Decyl Cocoate) 3.00 % 

TEGOSOFT ® TN/TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 3.00 % 

ABIL ® Wax 9840 (Cetyl Dimethicone) 0.75 % 

B TEGO ® Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 0.50 % 


Water 67.05 % 

C TEGO ® Betain 810 (Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine) 8.00 % 

D Phenonip ® 0.70 % 

E Citric Acid (10 % in water) 

q.s. 

Formula 3: O/W cationic emulsion for use in a pump foamer suited to whole body 

application – containing VARISOFT ® PATC and TEGO ® Cosmo C 100 

6

Modifying Aesthetics 

Cationic emulsifiers are used as primary emulsifiers and add versatility to complex formulation needs as a secondary emulsifier. 

Even at low levels, the sensory profile of cationic moieties is consumer perceivable. For example, using 1 % of a cationic emulsifier 

in combination with a nonionic emulsifier can impart a powdery dry feel to the system. 

O/W Cationic Cream (F 18/03-3) 

A VARISOFT ® TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) 1.00 % 

TEGO ® Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) 2.00 % 

TEGIN ® M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.00 % 


TEGOSOFT ® CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 10.00 % 

TEGOSOFT ® Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) 9.00 % 


Water 72.00 % 

Z Preservative, Parfum 

q.s. 

Formula 4: Skin care formula with unique sensory properties and long lasting effects 

Long lasting Cationic Cream with moisturizing effect (F 18/03-5) 








Water 72.00 % 


q.s. 

Formula 5: O/W emulsion – containing VARISOFT ® TA 100 as the 

primary emulsifier and TEGO ® Care 450 as secondary emulsifier 

7

Silky Cationic Soft Cream (F 18/03-8) 


ABIL ® Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 1.0 % 






Water 72.0 % 


q.s. 

Formula 6: O/W cationic emulsion – containing VARISOFT ® PATC as 

the primary emulsifier and ABIL ® Care 85 as secondary emulsifier 

O/W Facial Moisturizer (ADP-5615-46) 

A TEGO ® Care CE 40 (Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) 1.5 % 



TEGOSOFT ® MM (Myristyl Myristate) 1.0 % 

TEGOSOFT ® OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) 9.0 % 


Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Oil 3.7 % 

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.3 % 


Water 65.5 % 

C LACTIL ® (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; 

Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) 2.0 % 


q.s. 

Formula 7: O/W cationic emulsion – containing TEGO ® Care 450 as primary emulsifier and 

TEGO ® Care CE 40 system as a sensory enhancer 

Combining a cationic emulsifier with a silicone O/W emulsifier creates an emulsion that has a 

powdery velvety skin feel. 

8

O/W Silky Cationic Cream (F18/03-9) 


ABIL ® Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 1.0 % 






Water 72.00 % 


q.s. 

Formula 8: Skin care formula combining the protecting properties of VARISOFT ® TA 100 

and the unique silky skin feel of ABIL ® Care 85 

9

Sun Care and Pigmented Systems 

With the increasing concern about sun induced skin damage, consumers are using sunscreens at the beach and throughout the year 

to protect their skin from premature aging. Although an oily feel is acceptable for the beach, it is not acceptable for daily wear – the 

challenge to formulators is to develop high SPF formulas that protect the skin and wear well, but do not feel oily. Cationic emulsifiers 

offer the formulator a means to achieve these benefits along with the added advantage of water resistance and sand repellency at 

low usage concentrations. Data shows that the dialkyl quat, VARISOFT ® TA 100 proved most effective in sand repellency experiments. 

Results of the sand repellency test 

3 

Grams of sand left 

on the forearm 

2.5 

2 

1.5 

1 

0.5 

0 

VARISOFT ® TA 100 TEGO ® Care PS White Label market ABIL ® EM 90 Market product 

product with 

with Dehymuls 

Carbomer only 

PGPH 

Figure 4 

VARISOFT ® TA 100 showed the best sand repellency! 

10

Figure 5: A strong sand-repellent formula (left) 

compared to a weak sand-repellent formula (right) 

Cationic O/W Sun Cream with balanced UV protection system SPF* 18 (Ma 47/04-4) 




TEGOSOFT ® TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 5.0 % 

TEGOSOFT ® DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) 3.5 % 

TEGOSOFT ® CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) 1.0 % 

TEGOSOFT ® TIS (Triisostearin) 1.0 % 

TEGO ® Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 

Polyhydroxystearate) 5.0 % 

Octocrylene 3.0 % 

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.0 % 

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.0 % 


Water 66.0 % 


q.s. 

Formula 9: O/W cationic sunscreen – VARISOFT ® TA 100 emulsion which 

illustrates sand repellency property as seen in figure 5 

11

Water Resistance 

Water resistance is an important factor in sun care formulas, especially those intended to be used at the pool or on the beach. Data 

from an in-vitro water resistance study conducted according to a protocol that is under preparation by the Latin sun screen producers 

group [5] supports the benefits of cationic emulsifiers in this application. 

The study evaluated the water resistance of three O/W emulsifiers and one W/O system: Ceteareth-25, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose 

Distearate, Distearyldimonium Chloride and Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate. The filter system 

used in all formulations was Menthyl Anthranilate (4 %), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (5 %) and Ethylhexyl Salicylate (4 %). It is 

well known that O/W systems are less water resistant than W/O systems (See formulation numbers 1 and 2). This is due primarily 

to O/W emulsions‘ tendency to re-emulsify in the presence of water. But VARISOFT ® TA 100 which is an O/W emulsifier does 

not show this tendency because of its strong substantivity to the skin. 

The following measurements were made and the results are indicated in Figure 6: 

Formulation Number Emulsifier Emulsion type WR* [%] 

1 TEGINACID ® C 

(Ceteareth-25) O/W 70 

2 TEGO ® Care 450 

(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose 

Distearate O/W 90 

3 VARISOFT ® TA 100 

(Distearyldimonium Chloride) O/W 100 

4 ISOLAN ® GPS 

(Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ 

Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate) W/O 100 

Figure 6: *In-vitro water-resistance (WR) test 

(Optometrics SPF-290S; 1 mg/cm 2 ; on PMMA slide) 

The tests are performed featured the following [5] 

• PMMA Hélioplates as substrate 

• Stirring method in water-filled beaker 

• In-vitro testing by the Diffey Optometrics or 

the Kockott Sunscreen Tester 

Under these test conditions cationic emulsions are 100 % water 

resistant without film-forming additives, and are comparable to 

their W/O counterparts. 

12

Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 12/Star rating: 1 (Ma 46/04-3) 




TEGOSOFT ® TN/TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 5.00 % 





Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.00 % 

Menthyl Anthranilate 4.00 % 



Water 67.50 % 


q.s. 

Formula 10: This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsifier to alter the sensory profile of a high oil containing sunscreen. 

The cationic emulsifier also aids in maintaining a very high water resistance. 

Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 28/Star rating: 3 (Ma 46/04-2) 




TEGOSOFT ® TN /TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 5.00 % 






Menthyl Anthranilate 4.00 % 



Water 67.50 % 


q.s. 

Formula 11: This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsifier to alter the 

sensory profile of a high oil containing sunscreen. 

13

Cationic Sun Care Cream SPF* 14 Water Resistant (CL03/06-2A) 


TEGOSOFT ® TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 2.6 % 



TEGO ® Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.8 % 

TEGO ® Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate) 4.4 % 

Octocrylene 5.0 % 


Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3.0 % 



Water 67.0 % 

Z Preservatives 

q.s. 

Formula 12: O/W cationic emulsion – containing VARISOFT ® PATC and 

TEGO ® Sun TDEC 45. The cationic emulsifier also aids in 

maintaining a very high water resistance. 

Light O/W Day Cream for Men with UV Protection (ADP-5615-84) 

A TEGO ® Care CE 40 (Cetearyl Alcolhol (and) 

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) 2.5 % 

TEGIN ® M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate ) 2.5 % 

VARISOFT ® TA-100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) 2.5 % 

TEGOSOFT ® TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 8.0 % 




TEGO ® Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; 

Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate) 10.0 % 


Water 62.0 % 

C Preservative 

q.s. 

Formula 13: O/W cationic emulsion – utilized both the TEGO ® Care CE 40 and 

VARISOFT ® TA 100 for an extra light skin feel. 

14

Cationic Foundation CE 1 (ADP-5615-145) 

A Titanium Dioxide (micronized/silicone treated) 6.00 % 

Talc (silicone treated) 4.00 % 

Cyclomethicone 9.00 % 

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (TEGOSOFT ® Liquid) 2.00 % 

Polydecene 2.00 % 

B Polydecene 2.60 % 

Iron Oxides (micronized/silicone treated) 0.90 % 

C Cyclomethicone 9.00 % 

Phenyl Trimethicone 1.50 % 

D Glycerin 6.00 % 

Water 

q.s. 

Sodium Chloride 0.50 % 

Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltimonium Chloride 

(TEGO ® Care CE 40) 5.00 % 

Preservatives 

q.s. 

Formula 14: O/W cationic foundation – utilized TEGO ® Care CE 40 as sole emulsifier and lends 

a powdery skin feel. 

Conclusion 

Cationic emulsifiers offer the formulator a new tool in developing products which meet consumer demands. The unique properties 

of cationic emulsifiers enable the development of high lipophilic systems that offer enhanced consumer benefits without sacrificing 

aesthetics. Cationic emulsions lend a smooth powdery skin feel that nonionic and anionic emulsions do not. Applications which 

benefit from this technology include facial, hand and body, baby and foot care, sunscreens, and other systems where a non-oily, 

high lipophilic system is an advantage. Cationic emulsifiers offer these benefits: 

• Excellent emulsification 

• Combination with co-emulsifiers offer various possibilities 

to influence skin feel and absorption behavior 

• Long-lasting skin moisturization 

• Water resistance properties 

• Renewable resources 

• Excellent cost/performance ratio 

References 

[1] Beauty Aids Report. Chain Drug Review, January (20), 2003, 18. 

[2] Jungermann, Eric. Cationic Surfactants. Marcel Dekker Inc, 1970, 527 – 613. 

[3] CTFA. 2000. April 2002. 

[4] Klein, Ken. “Cationic Emulsifiers: A Most Underutilized Category.” Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Vol. 117, 

No. 12 (Dec), 2002, 21 – 23. 

[5] Latin Sun Screen Group, work unpublished (Status of February 2006). 

For more information about the products and additional guideline formulations go to www.evonik.com/personal-care 

15

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phone + 49 201 173- 2854 

fax +49 201 173- 1828 

personal-care@evonik.com 

www.evonik.com/personal-care 

For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cific area of interest, please contact the 

Evonik Goldschmidt Head Office in Essen or contact your local representative. 

This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH‘s present knowledge 

and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice 

including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property 

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A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE 

RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF 

PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to 

technological progress or further developments. It is the customer’s responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect 

and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verified by testing and 

carried out only by qualified experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any 

such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement 

of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008) 

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03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 21-08

Formulating with Cationic Emulsifiers in Skin Care and Sun Care

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