Agusta A119 Koala - Graupner

Order No. 4461 

Agusta A119 

Koala 

Scale fuselage kit for 

miniature electric helicopter Micro Star 400 

Warning! 

The contents of this kit can be assembled to produce a working helicopter, but the model 

is by no means a harmless plaything. If assembled incorrectly or handled incompetently 

or carelessly it can cause serious injury to persons and damage to property. 

You alone are responsible for completing the model correctly and operating it safely. The 

kit also includes two further information sheets - SHW 3 and SHW 7 - which include 

safety notes and warnings. Please be sure to read them and keep to our recommendations. 

They are an essential part of these instructions. 

GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY 

Modifications, errors and printing errors reserved. ID# 53114 10/04

Agusta A119 Koala 

Foreword 

The AGUSTA A119 "Koala" is a single-turbine helicopter designed for a wide range of tasks. It 

is largely based on the familiar twin-engined A109, but is fitted with only one turbine and a 

robust skid landing gear instead of the fixed or retractable wheeled undercarriage. The 

capacious cabin provides space for up to seven passengers, 1 tonne of freight or - in the rescue 

helicopter version - two stretchers. The Pratt & Whitney PT6B-37A turbine generates a take-off 

power of 1002 BHP and a continuous output of 872 BHP, giving the "Koala" an exceptional 

performance. 

This fuselage kit is designed to convert the MICRO STAR 400 mini electric helicopter into a 

semi-scale model of the AGUSTA A119 "Koala" helicopter. The original MICRO STAR should 

first be test-flown and trimmed out completely. The chassis of the model, complete with tail 

boom and boom braces but without canopy and skid landing gear, is then screwed to a lightwood 

plywood base plate, to which a semi-scale broad-based skid landing gear is also 

attached. The fuselage, consisting of two lightweight vacuum-moulded shells, can then be fitted 

round this assembly. The shells are only glued together permanently at the tail end; at the front 

they are held together by strips of adhesive tape, so that the chassis can still be removed easily 

from the fuselage for maintenance work. 

The fuselage is vacuum-moulded from clear smoked-tint plastic, and is designed to be painted 

from the outside; the kit includes pre-cut masks for the windows. 

The flight battery can be changed through an opening in the bottom of the fuselage, without 

having to remove the fuselage shells. 

Naturally the flight time which can be achieved per battery charge varies according to the 

model’s set-up and the pilot’s flying style; however, since the "Koala" is around 100 g heavier 

than the basic MICRO STAR 400, you must expect the flight times to be correspondingly 

shorter. 

Note: in developing this fuselage kit we considered that minimum possible weight and minimum adverse effect 

on the model’s flight performance were more important than ease of building. For this reason you will need a 

reasonable level of modelling skill, care and patience in order to complete this model satisfactorily, particularly 

regarding the trimming and joining of the thin-walled fuselage shells. 

Specification 

Length excl. rotor approx. 645 mm 

Height approx. 

205 mm 

Width excl. rotor approx. 140 mm 

Main rotor Ø 

630 mm 

Tail rotor Ø 

140 mm 

All-up weight min. approx. 595 g 

Main rotor reduction ratio 13,2:1 

Tail rotor reduction ratio 4:1 

2


Warning notes 

• The contents of this kit can be assembled to produce a working model, but the model 

is by no means a harmless plaything. If assembled incorrectly or handled incompetently 

or carelessly it can cause serious injury to persons and damage to property. 

• When the model helicopter’s motor is running, the two rotors are spinning at high 

speed and contain an enormous quantity of rotational energy. Anything and everything 

that gets into the rotational plane of the rotors is either damaged or destroyed - 

and that includes parts of your body. Please take extreme care at all times with this 

machine. 

• If any object obstructs the rotational plane of the revolving rotors, severe damage will 

probably be caused to the rotor blades as well as the object. Broken parts may fly off 

and result in enormous imbalance; the whole helicopter then falls into sympathetic 

vibration, you lose control and have no way of predicting what the model will do next. 

• You may also lose control if a problem arises in the radio control system, perhaps as 

a result of outside interference, component failure or flat or faulty batteries, but in any 

case the result is the same: the model helicopter’s response is entirely unpredictable. 

Without prior warning it may move off in any direction. 

• Helicopters have many parts which are naturally subject to wear, including gearbox 

components, motor, ball-links etc., and as a result it is absolutely essential to check 

and maintain the model regularly. It is standard practice with full-size aircraft to give 

the machine a thorough "pre-flight check" before every flight, and this is equally important 

with your model helicopter. Constant checking gives you the opportunity to 

detect and correct any faults which may develop before they are serious enough to 

cause a crash. 

• The kit also includes two further information sheets - SHW 3 and SHW 7 - which include 

safety notes and warnings. Please be sure to read them and keep to our recommendations. 

They are an essential part of these instructions. 

• This helicopter is designed to be constructed and operated by adults, although young 

people of 16 years or more may do so under the instruction and supervision of competent 

adults. 

• The model features sharp points and edges which may cause injury. 

• Flying model aircraft is subject to certain legal restrictions, and these must be observed 

at all times. For example, it is essential to take out third party insurance, you 

must obtain permission to use the flying site, and you may have to obtain a licence to 

use your radio control system (regulations vary from country to country). 

• It is important to transport your model helicopter (e.g. to the flying site) in such a way 

that there is no danger of damaging the machine. Particularly vulnerable areas are the 

rotor head linkages and the tail rotor generally. 

3


• Controlling a model helicopter successfully is not easy; you will need persistence and 

determination to learn the skills, and good hand-eye co-ordination is a basic requirement. 

• Before you attempt to fly the model you should study the subject of helicopters in 

depth, so that you have a basic understanding of how the machines work. Read everything 

you can on the theory of helicopters, and spend as much time as you can 

watching other model helicopter pilots flying. Talk to chopper pilots, ask their advice, 

and enrol at a specialist model flying school if you need to. Many model shops will 

also be prepared to help you. 

• Please be sure to read right through these instructions before you start work on the 

model. It is important that you clearly understand each individual stage of assembly 

and the correct sequence of events before you begin building. 

• Don’t make modifications to the model’s construction by using parts other than those 

specifically recommended, unless you are certain of the quality and suitability of 

these other parts for the task. 

• We have made every effort to point out to you the dangers inherent in operating this 

model helicopter. Since neither we, the manufacturer, nor the model shop that sold 

you the kit have any influence over the way you build and operate your model, we are 

obliged to disclaim any liability in connection with it. 

Liability exclusion / Compensation 

As manufacturers, we at GRAUPNER are not in a position to influence the way you build 

and set up the model, nor how you install, operate and maintain the radio control system 

components. For this reason we are obliged to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs 

which are incurred due to the incompetent or incorrect use and operation of our products, 

or which are connected with such operation in any way. 

Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the GRAUPNER company 

to pay compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is limited to the invoice 

value of that quantity of GRAUPNER products which was immediately and directly 

involved in the event which caused the damage. This does not apply if GRAUPNER is 

found to be subject to unlimited liability according to binding legal regulation on account 

of deliberate or gross negligence. 

4


Contents 

• Foreword ......................................... P.2 

• Warnings ......................................... P.3 

• Accessories, extra items required ....................... P.6 

• Building the base plate and landing gear .................. P.7 

• Grundplatte mit Landegestell anfertigen ................. P.7 

• Completing the chassis .............................. P.10 

• Preparing the fuselage shells .......................... P.11 

• Final trimming of the fuselage shell ...................... P.12 

• Horizontal stabilisers ................................. P.13 

• Completing and painting the model ...................... P.14 

• Centre of Gravity ................................... P.14 

• General safety measures .............................. P.15 

• Basic helicopter terminology............................ P.16 

• List of parts ........................................ P.18 

The instructions 

We have invested considerable effort in producing these instructions, with the aim of ensuring 

that your model helicopter will fly reliably and safely. Please take the trouble to follow the 

instructions step by step, exactly as described, as this guarantees a successful outcome. This 

applies to you whether you are a relative beginner or an experienced expert. 

• The comprehensive illustrations show how the model is constructed; be sure to read the 

instructions which accompany the drawings. 

• All gears, bearings and moving joints must be greased or oiled carefully. 

• You will find the parts list at the end of these instructions. 

5


Accessories 

Mechanics and recommended accessories for the AGUSTA A119 Koala 

Mechanics: 

MICRO STAR 400 


Order No. 4441.RCU 

Factory-assembled model including motor 

As 4441, plus four servos, speed controller and gyro system 

Radio control system: see main Graupner catalogue 

We recommend a radio control system equipped with special helicopter options, or a microcomputer 

radio control system such as the mc-12, mc-14, mc-15, mc-19, mc / mx-22 or mc-24. 

Servos: 

C 121 micro-servo 


Gyro system: 

PIEZO NT-310 pico gyro system 


Speed controller: 

PICO SC 20 


or 

PICO 25 


Flight battery: 

LiPo 1500 

Order No. 7635.3BEC 

6


Assembly 

Preparing the chassis 

We assume that you have already test-flown your MICRO STAR 400 and set it up correctly. 

This is important, as access to the components for adjustment and maintenance is greatly 

restricted when the mechanics are inside the fuselage. 

• Remove the canopy (no longer required). 

• Remove the flight battery. 

• Unscrew the stabiliser panels from the mounting flanges. 

• Locate the self-tapping screws which retain the tail boom braces and unscrew them from the 

flange on the tail boom. Rotate the flange through 180° on the tail boom, so that the 

stabiliser mounting is on the underside, then re-fit the screws to secure the boom braces 

again. 

• Remove the speed controller from the underside of the chassis (it is re-installed later). 

• Unscrew the tail rotor bellcrank and disconnect it from the pushrod. 

• Loosen the clamping screws in the tail rotor housing, and withdraw the tail rotor housing to 

the rear. 

• Separate the skid landing gear (no longer required) from the chassis by undoing the four 

retaining screws. The screws are re-used. 

Building the base plate and landing gear 

The first step is to insert the two lateral stiffeners in both sides of the base plate, and fix them in 

place using cyano-acrylate adhesive ("cyano"). This is the procedure: lay the plate down flat and 

glue the stiffeners to the rear of the plate only. Allow the glue to set hard, then pack up the rear 

end by about 6 mm and glue the stiffeners to the front of the base plate, so that the plate takes 

up the same angle as the stiffeners. 

Glue the balsa in-fill piece to the underside of the base plate, flush with the rear edge. When the 

glue is dry, continue the circular opening in the base plate through the balsa. Round off the 

outside edges of the balsa in-fill piece as shown, using abrasive paper. 

7


Drill two 2 mm Ø holes in each of the carbon fibre skid tubes, taking care to drill at exactly the 

same angle: the rear ones should be 22 mm from the end, and the front ones spaced 135 mm 

from them. Caution: do not drill right through the tubes: just drill into them! 

Fit the two skid bars into the holes "dry" (no 

glue), and tape the skid tubes down on a flat 

surface as shown: the tubes should be 108 

mm apart, perfectly "square" and parallel to 

each other. 

Remove the skid bars from the skid tubes 

without disturbing the tubes, and slide lengths 

of 3 / 2 mm Ø plastic tube onto them; the ends 

of the steel bars should project by about 4 

mm; roughen the exposed ends using 

abrasive paper. 

Now fit the skid bars into the (still fixed) skid 

tubes, set them parallel to each other and tilted 

to the rear slightly, then glue them securely to 

the skid tubes using cyano. 

Glue a 20 mm long beech dowel in the front 

end of each carbon fibre tube, leaving half their 

length projecting. 

8


Measure a point 95 mm from the rear of the original aluminium skid tubes and cut them off at 

that point; the remaining curved front ends can now be pushed onto the wooden dowels in the 

carbon fibre skid tubes and glued in place. Align the curved ends so that they are parallel to 

each other, and check that they form a neat joint with the carbon fibre tubes. Allow the glue to 

cure fully. 

This completes the landing gear. Glue the assembly to the underside of the base plate as 

shown in the picture, taking care to position the plate centrally on the skid bars: tack the parts 

together using thin cyano initially, then apply thick cyano to strengthen the joints. 

9


Completing the chassis 

Attach the helicopter chassis (complete with tail boom and boom braces) to the base plate using 

the four screws with which the original skid landing gear was secured. Attach the speed 

controller to the underside of the base plate so that the ON / OFF switch is easily accessible 

when the model is complete. 

The upper bodywork stand-off pillars 

consist of a 70 mm length of 2 mm Ø 

carbon fibre rod. Drill a 2 mm Ø hole 

in both chassis side frames as shown 

in the photo, and push the rod 

through them. Adjust the position of 

the rod so that it projects by exactly 

the same amount on both sides. Cut 

two pieces 21 mm long from the 3 / 2 

mm Ø plastic tube, push them onto 

the carbon fibre rod as far as they will 

go, and secure them with cyano. 

10


Preparing the fuselage shells 

Cut out the vacuum-moulded fuselage shells, working exactly along the marked lines, and sand 

the cut edges smooth using fine abrasive paper. 

Using a sharp balsa knife, carefully cut out the rectangular turbine air intakes in the upper part 

of the fuselage, aft of the main rotor shaft. Seal the openings by gluing small pieces of fly screen 

over them on the inside; they serve as additional air openings to cool the motor. 

Cut the openings in the underside of the fuselage for the skid bars, working along the marked 

lines. In the top of the shells cut out as large an oval opening as possible for the main rotor 

shaft. At the tail end cut the hole for the tail rotor pushrod. 

Bend the tailskid to shape from the steel wire supplied; the correct shape is shown in the photo. 

Glue it in the bottom vertical stabiliser. 

Fit the fuselage shells together as accurately as possible and apply pieces of tape over the 

joints. Note that the edges of the shells should butt together; they should not overlap. 

11


When you are confident that everything lines up correctly and is held securely in place, the rear 

part of the shells can be glued together in the following areas only: 

• The top of tail boom along the shaft tunnel, then forward and up to just aft of the main rotor 

shaft; 

• The whole of the upper vertical stabiliser; 

• The whole tail cone; 

• The whole of the bottom vertical stabiliser. 

Do not allow the glue to run onto other areas, otherwise it may be impossible to install 

the mechanics when you have finished! 

Remove the strips of tape when the glue has set hard. Cut narrow strips of scrap plastic and cut 

them into short pieces as shown. Glue these small rectangles along the joint line in the front 

section of the fuselage, fitting them in groups of three to form locating tongues: in each case 

glue two pieces on the inside of one shell, with a third strip between them on the other side (see 

photo). Roughen all joints with abrasive paper before applying the glue. 

Final trimming of the fuselage shell 

Gently spread the fuselage shells on the underside so that the chassis can be installed from underneath. 

When you do this it is important to ensure that the tail rotor pushrod exits the fuselage 

through the appropriate opening. Check that the fuselage shell is a snug fit all round the chassis 

when the shells are held together with a few strips of adhesive tape: the openings at the bottom 

should be a close fit round the skid bars, but without placing the fuselage under strain. Check 

that the main rotor is free to rotate without any danger that the swashplate, pushrods or other 

linkage components could foul the fuselage. 

12


Slide the tail rotor assembly onto the tail boom again, working from the rear underside, and replace 

it in its original position. Trim the opening in the fuselage shell as required to ensure that 

none of the moving parts fouls the bodywork. 

Connect the tail rotor bellcrank to the pushrod, then replace the crank in its original position. 

Check that the tail rotor works correctly, with no tendency to foul or jam at any point. 

Mark the outline of the rectangular opening in the base plate on the fuselage shell, and cut it out 

so that the flight battery can be fitted from the underside and slid into the nose of the fuselage. If 

you wish, you can just leave this access hatch open; alternatively you can cut a rectangular 

hatch cover from scrap flat plastic sheet left over from the fuselage shells. The cover can be attached 

using a tape hinge, and held closed with another strip of tape. 

Horizontal stabilisers 

Cut out the cambered bottom shells for the horizontal stabilisers along the marked lines. Cut 

pieces of plastic tube to length and glue them in the two shells, 8 mm from the leading edge and 

parallel to it. Sand the edges of the open top surface of the stabiliser panels flat by rubbing them 

on a sheet of abrasive paper; it does not matter if you sand a little off the top of the plastic tubes 

at the same time. 

The prepared stabiliser shells can now be glued to the flat stabiliser top sections (scrap plastic). 

Allow the glue to set hard, then cut out the stabiliser panels and sand the glued edges smooth 

all round. Working from the angled root face of the panels, drill a 2 mm Ø hole into the plastic 

tube, and check that the remainder of the 2 mm carbon fibre rod can be slid into the two tubes. 

13


Drill 2 mm Ø holes at the marked points in the tail boom so that the carbon fibre rod can be 

fitted through them; the rod acts as the horizontal stabiliser joiner and spar. Fit the stabiliser 

panels on the joiner rod, and check that they are horizontal when viewed from the tail. At the 

same time ensure that they rest snugly against the fuselage sides. 

When you are confident that everything fits correctly, remove the stabiliser panels, remove the 

strips of tape holding the fuselage shells together, and remove the chassis from the fuselage 

once more. 

Completing and painting the model 

The fuselage should be painted on the outside using fast-drying spray paint. 

Caution: 

In order to save weight the fuselage shells are moulded in very thin plastic. This makes 

them vulnerable to distortion caused by the softening action of the paint solvent. You 

can avoid this happening by applying the paint sparingly, in thin coats. 

Before applying the paint, you must mask out the windows using the pre-cut self-adhesive 

masks provided in the kit. Rub down the surfaces to be painted using very fine abrasive paper 

(600 - 1200 grit) to ensure that the paint adheres well. This is particularly important along the 

joint line; if you neglect this, the paint may tend to flake off later when you peel off the adhesive 

tape which is used to hold the fuselage shell halves together. 

We recommend that you paint the horizontal stabiliser panels separately from the fuselage, and 

only attach them to the model when painting is complete. The same applies to the vacuummoulded 

dummy exhaust pipes. 

Cut out the decals from the sheet supplied, and apply them to the model in the arrangement 

shown in the kit box illustration. The best way of fitting the black window frames is to cut them 

out initially along the outside edges only, and apply them to the model in this state. Then you 

can cut carefully along the inside lines and peel off the excess material. 

Centre of Gravity 

The model’s CG should be as close as possible to the main rotor shaft, but up to 2 cm aft of it 

should not present problems. The CG can be corrected by adding lead ballast to the extreme 

fuselage nose, but since this adds unwanted weight it should only be done if there is really no 

alternative. 

14


General safety measures 

• Take out adequate third-party insurance cover. 

• Wherever possible join the local model flying club. 

At the flying site: 

• Never fly your model above spectators. 

• Do not fly models close to buildings or vehicles. 

• Avoid flying over agricultural workers in neighbouring fields. 

• Do not fly your model in the vicinity of railway lines, major roads or overhead cables. 

Pre-flight checks, flying safety: 

• Before you switch on the transmitter check carefully that no other model flyer is using the 

same frequency. 

• Carry out a range check with your RC system. 

• Check that the transmitter and flight batteries are fully charged. 

• Do not let the model fly out of safe visual range. 

Post-flight checks 

• Clean the model and check that all screws etc. are still tight. 

• Look for wear and damage to the helicopter, and replace worn parts in good time. 

• Ensure that the electronic components such as battery, receiver, gyro etc. are still securely 

fixed. Remember that rubber bands deteriorate with age and may fail. 

• Check the receiver aerial. Conductor fractures inside the insulation are often not visible from 

the outside. 

• If the main rotor should touch the ground when spinning, replace the blades. Internal blade 

damage may not be visible from the outside. 

• Never carry the model by the tail boom: too firm a grip will easily deform the tail rotor 

pushrod. 

15


Some basic terms used in model helicopter flying 

The term "rotary wing machine" indicates that the helicopter’s lift is derived from rotating "wings" 

which take the form of rotor blades. As a result, a helicopter does not require a minimum forward 

speed in order to fly, i.e. it can hover. 

Cyclic pitch 

Cyclic pitch variation is used to steer the machine around the roll and pitch axes. Changing cyclic 

pitch has the effect of altering blade pitch depending on its position in the circle. The effect 

is caused by tilting the swashplate, which then effectively tilts the helicopter in the required direction. 

Collective pitch 

Collective pitch provides control over vertical movement, i.e. for climb and descent. The pitch of 

both rotor blades is altered simultaneously. 

Torque compensation 

The spinning rotor produces a moment which tends to turn the whole helicopter in the opposite 

direction. This effect must be accurately neutralised, and this is the task of the tail rotor. Tail rotor 

blade pitch is altered to vary torque compensation. The tail rotor is also used to control the 

model around the vertical (yaw) axis. 

Hovering 

This is the state in which the helicopter flies in a fixed position in the air, without moving in any 

direction. 

Ground effect 

This occurs only when the machine is close to the ground, and it falls off as altitude rises. At an 

altitude of about 1 - 1½ times the rotor diameter ground effect is completely absent. Normally 

the revolving airflow from the main rotor is able to flow away freely, but in ground effect the air 

strikes an obstacle (the ground) and forms an "air cushion". In ground effect a helicopter can lift 

a greater weight, but its positional stability is reduced, with the result that it tends to "break 

away" in an unpredictable direction. 

Climb 

Any excess power above that required for hovering can be exploited to make the helicopter 

climb. Note that a vertical climb requires more energy than an angled climb which includes forward 

motion. For this reason a model with a given amount of motor power will climb more rapidly 

at an angle than vertically. 

Level flight 

A helicopter absorbs least power when flying straight and level at about half-power. If you have 

trimmed the machine carefully for a steady hover, it will tend to turn to one side when flown forward. 

The reason for this phenomenon is that the rotor blade which is moving forward encounters 

an increased airflow caused by the wind, and this increases its upthrust compared with the 

blade which is moving downwind, where the same airflow has to be subtracted. The net result is 

a lateral inclination of the helicopter. 

Descent 

If the helicopter’s rotor speed is relatively low and you place the helicopter in a fast vertical descent, 

the result can be that insufficient air flows through the rotor. This can cause what is 

known as a "turbulent ring stage", when the airflow over the blade airfoil breaks away. The helicopter 

is then uncontrollable and will usually crash. A high-speed descent is therefore only possible 

if the helicopter is moving forward, or if the rotor is spinning at high speed. For the same 

reason care should be exercised when turning the model helicopter downwind after flying into 

wind. 

Flapping motion of the rotor blades 

As we have already seen, the forward-moving blade produces greater upthrust than the trailing 

blade. This effect can be minimised by allowing the leading blade to rise and the trailing blade to 

fall. The rotor head is fitted with what is known as a flapping hinge to allow this movement, and 

16


this prevents the rotor plane tilting excessively in forward flight. In model helicopters a single 

hinge shared by both blades has proved an effective solution to the problem. 

Auto-rotation 

This term refers to a helicopter flying without motor power. The rotational speed of the main rotor 

can be kept high by setting both blades to negative pitch, and the airflow through the rotor as 

it descends then keeps the blades turning. The rotational energy stored in the rotor by this 

means can be converted into upthrust when the helicopter is close to the ground, by the pilot 

applying positive collective pitch. Of course, this can only be done once, and it has to be done at 

the correct moment. Auto-rotation allows a model helicopter to land safely when the motor fails, 

just like a full-size machine. 

However, auto-rotation places considerable demands on the pilot’s judgement and reflexes; you 

can only halt the machine’s descent once, and you must not "flare" too early or too late. Much 

practice is required to get it right. 

17


List of parts 

Part 

Description Material / dimensions in mm No. off 

No. 

1 Fuselage shell, right / left Clear plastic, smoked tint 1 each 

2 Horizontal stabiliser, bottom shell, Clear plastic, smoked tint 

1 each 

right / left 

3 Horizontal stabiliser, top panel,(scrap Clear plastic, smoked tint 

1 each 

material from parts 1) 

approx. 55 x 25 

4 Battery hatch cover 

Clear plastic, smoked tint 

1 

(scrap material from parts 1) approx. 55 x 40 

5 Dummy exhaust pipes Clear plastic, smoked tint 2 

6 Chassis base plate Beech ply, approx. 240 x 60 x 1,5 1 

7 Lateral chassis stiffener Beech ply, approx. 205 x 12 x 1,5 2 

8 In-fill piece Balsa, 60 x 40 x 6 1 

9 Skid bar, front / rear Pre-formed piano wire 1 each 

10 Skid bar sheath ABS tube, 2/3 Ø x 135 2 

11 Skid tube CFRP tube, 5/3 Ø x 170 2 

11 Skid tube tips Nose of aluminium skid tube, 5/4 Ø 2 

12 Skid joiner Beech dowel, 3 Ø x 20 2 

13 Stand-off pillar CFRP rod, 2 Ø x 70 1 

14 Horizontal stabiliser joiner CFRP rod, 2 Ø x 130 1 

15 Fly screen Plastic, 50 x 50 1 

16 Tailskid piano wire, 1 Ø x 100 1 

17 Window masks Masking film, pre-cut 1 

18 Full-colour decal sheet 1 

18

Agusta A119 Koala - Graupner

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