real food
Why Should I Care About Acne? cne is a very common skin condition that affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated. AWhat Causes Acne? cne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest, and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands. All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. These types of bacteria can also cause inflammation in the skin.
Why Should I Care
About Acne?
cne is a very common skin condition that affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of
self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated.
AWhat Causes Acne?
cne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest,
and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands.
All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. These types of bacteria can also cause inflammation in the skin.
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Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
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SALMON IN BLOOD-ORANGE<br />
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Ask DR. CRUTCHFIELD:<br />
SKIN CARE ADVICE FROM AN EXPERT<br />
ACNE TREATMENT<br />
Why Should I Care<br />
About Acne?<br />
Acne is a very common<br />
skin condition that<br />
affects over 90% of people<br />
at some point in their lives.<br />
When adolescents are<br />
developing a strong sense of<br />
self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause<br />
low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent<br />
scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it<br />
bothers the patient, it should be treated.<br />
What Causes Acne?<br />
Acne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules<br />
and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest,<br />
and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands.<br />
All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their<br />
bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has<br />
nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also<br />
have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to<br />
the oil as a <strong>food</strong> source. These types of bacteria can also cause<br />
inflammation in the skin.<br />
How Common Is Acne?<br />
Acne is genetically determined, running in families. As<br />
oil glands in the skin become activated by hormones<br />
during adolescence, we first start to see acne. Unfortunately,<br />
acne doesn’t always disappear when we leave our teens. I treat<br />
many patients with acne into their 20s, 30s, and even beyond.<br />
How Is Acne Treated?<br />
Acne can be treated by unplugging the pores, reducing<br />
inflammation, reducing bacteria, or actively decreasing<br />
oil production. Topical preparations like chemical peels or<br />
salicylic acid will unplug follicles, while topical antibiotic<br />
solutions will decrease bacteria and certain acne creams<br />
can reduce inflammation. Other medications and lasers can<br />
also decrease oil production. One of the best kept secrets<br />
when it comes to treating acne is that the vast majority of<br />
acne treatments are designed to improve acne, but very few<br />
treatments are designed to clear acne up completely. This<br />
is one of the biggest concerns my patients express to me.<br />
They are using medicine to treat acne, and while they say<br />
their condition is better, they still have acne. The treatments<br />
make the condition better compared to not using any type of<br />
treatment, but they will not necessarily make acne 100% clear.<br />
There is one very effective medicine for the total clearing of<br />
acne, but it has side effects that need to be monitored carefully<br />
under the direction of a dermatologist.<br />
What Action Steps Can Be Taken Now<br />
For Addressing My Acne?<br />
• Treat acne as soon as you notice it.<br />
• While there are many topical over-the-counter preparations,<br />
consult with a board-certified dermatologist to identify the<br />
best treatment plan.<br />
• Always use very gentle, non-abrasive, non-harsh cleansers and<br />
moisturizers.<br />
• If problems persist after initial treatment, inform your<br />
dermatologist to revise your treatment plan.<br />
Treating acne appropriately and early can prevent low<br />
self-esteem, discomfort, and scars that last a lifetime. Visit<br />
CrutchfieldDermatology.com for more information.<br />
Follow us on Facebook and on Twitter @CrutchfieldDerm.<br />
BEFORE<br />
AFTER<br />
Acne patient treated by Dr. Crutchfi eld<br />
Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD, is a graduate of the Mayo Clinic Medical School and a Clinical Professor of Dermatology<br />
at the University of Minnesota Medical School. Dr. Crutchfi eld is an annual selection in the “Top Doctors” issue of Mpls. St. Paul<br />
magazine, and is the only dermatologist to have been selected as a “Best Doctor for Women” by<br />
Minnesota Monthly magazine since the inception of the survey. Dr. Crutchfi eld has also been selected<br />
as one of the “Best Doctors in America,” an honor awarded to only 4% of all practicing physicians. Dr.<br />
Crutchfi eld is the co-author of a children’s book on sun protection and dermatology textbook. He is a<br />
member of the AOA National Medical Honor Society, an expert consultant for WebMD and CNN, and a<br />
recipient of the Karis Humanitarian Award from the Mayo Clinic School of Medicine.<br />
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contents<br />
Features<br />
18 Celebrate Citrus<br />
Infuse your meal with the<br />
sunny sweet tang of citrus.<br />
BY ROBIN ASBELL<br />
26 Spirited Dishes<br />
Add depth of flavor to your<br />
favorite dish with a shot of<br />
wine, beer, or spirit.<br />
BY SERENA BASS<br />
36 Bistro Brunch<br />
An indulgent French accent<br />
for a leisurely, satisfying<br />
midday meal.<br />
BY JASON ROSS<br />
<strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />
spring 2014<br />
44 Terrific Turmeric<br />
The beloved golden spice<br />
is synonymous with health<br />
and flavor.<br />
BY NINA SIMONDS<br />
52 Farm to Restaurant<br />
Acclaimed French Chef Daniel<br />
Boulud reveals the breadth of<br />
his inspirations.<br />
BY TARA Q. THOMAS<br />
p.41<br />
Our Cover<br />
Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce over Lemony<br />
Spinach Rice (page 23). This page: Pommes Anna<br />
(page 41). Photographs by Terry Brennan<br />
1 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> winter 2013
contributors<br />
Serena Bass is known for<br />
being New York City’s caterer to the<br />
stars and has thrown parties for Andy<br />
Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade,<br />
Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane,<br />
and countless others. Her cookbook,<br />
Serena, Food & Stories, won the James<br />
Beard Award for best entertaining book.<br />
Currently, Bass is also the executive chef<br />
at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York,<br />
and holds monthly cooking classes in<br />
St. Paul, Minnesota. Photograph by<br />
David Loftus.<br />
Terry Brennan is an awardwinning<br />
photographer who has worked<br />
for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser,<br />
Target, and many national advertising<br />
agencies. “My <strong>real</strong> passion lies in<br />
editorial work,” he says, “in which a<br />
photographer’s freedom to create a<br />
story or look through the photograph<br />
is much greater.”<br />
Nina Simonds is an awardwinning<br />
author, journalist, and one<br />
of the country’s leading authorities<br />
on Asian <strong>food</strong> and culture. In 2001,<br />
Newsweek named her one of<br />
“America’s Top Twenty-Five Asian<br />
Hands.” She is the author of 11<br />
books on Chinese cuisine and culture,<br />
including the best-selling A Spoonful<br />
of Ginger and Spices of Life, both of<br />
which won both the IACP and the<br />
James Beard Foundation Book Award<br />
for Health. Her latest cookbook,<br />
Simple Asian Meals was published last<br />
January. Her popular <strong>food</strong>, health, and<br />
lifestyle website is at spicesoflife.com.<br />
Robin Asbell spreads the word<br />
about how truly delicious and beautiful<br />
whole, <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong>s can be through her<br />
work as an author, cooking teacher, and<br />
private chef. She likes to add special<br />
touches to dishes that range from meat<br />
and sea<strong>food</strong> to beans and grains, with<br />
an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is<br />
Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat<br />
No Dairy All Delicious, which follows<br />
The New Whole Grains Cookbook, and<br />
the New Vegetarian.<br />
Tara Q. Thomas gave up<br />
cooking professionally to become a<br />
culinary-obsessed writer. She’s been a<br />
senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the<br />
past decade and writes regularly for the<br />
Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica,<br />
and Gourmet.com. The Brooklyn,<br />
New York–based mom of two is also<br />
author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide<br />
to Wine Basics.<br />
Lara Miklasevics began her<br />
<strong>food</strong> career on the other side of the<br />
camera, cooking at the renowned New<br />
French Café. Today her work as a stylist<br />
is in demand at corporations including<br />
Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well<br />
as with many magazines. She prides<br />
herself on using her experience as a<br />
chef to make <strong>food</strong> as appealing on the<br />
page as it is on the plate.<br />
Jason Ross is a culinary instructor<br />
at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has<br />
worked as a consultant to help develop<br />
menus at many Twin Cities restaurants.<br />
He grew up in New York City but now<br />
calls St. Paul home, where he lives with<br />
his wife and two young daughters.<br />
2 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
contents<br />
p.6<br />
Departments<br />
2 Contributors<br />
4 Bites<br />
A gluten-free banana bread shows that it’s<br />
possible to enjoy delicious homemade <strong>food</strong><br />
and adhere to a restrictive diet.<br />
BY ELLEN BROWN<br />
56<br />
6 Kitchen Skills<br />
Science meets art in creating<br />
a successful soufflé.<br />
BY JASON ROSS<br />
17 Ingredient<br />
Nutritious, cost-effective,<br />
and versatile, what’s not to<br />
love about the simple egg?<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
56 Pairings<br />
Prosecco is fast becoming<br />
prized for its delicate flavors and<br />
aromas of sweet apples, ripe<br />
pears, and almonds.<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
4<br />
17<br />
EGG PHOTO © PON301229 - FOTOLIA.COM<br />
PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS<br />
EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES JONATHON REYNOLDS<br />
SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MANDY FINDERS ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES GLORI RANTZ AND KELLY WIEBE<br />
VOLUME 10, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,<br />
612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from<br />
the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.<strong>real</strong><strong>food</strong>mag.com<br />
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed<br />
on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed<br />
to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 3
ites<br />
Gluten-Free Baking<br />
There’s nothing inherently “bad” about gluten. It’s not an evil chemical produced in a test tube by a mad scientist, nor is it<br />
adding plaque to our coronary arteries. It shouldn’t be grouped with trans fats or MSG. Gluten is what’s formed when two<br />
of the thirty proteins found in wheat, rye, and barley get wet. That’s all there is to it.<br />
But what’s evil is that this natural reaction can be harmful to the health of millions. Understanding the need to live gluten-free<br />
starts with understanding how gluten can cause life-threatening problems if not removed from the diet of those who cannot<br />
tolerate it. But the good news is that following a gluten-free diet can mitigate debilitating symptoms and pain in as little as a<br />
few months, and a change of diet is the only answer. The need is for <strong>food</strong> rather than a pharmacy.<br />
EXCERPT FROM GLUTEN-FREE BREAD: MORE THAN 100 ARTISAN LOAVES FOR A HEALTHIER LIFE BY ELLEN BROWN<br />
Gluten-Free Banana Bread<br />
MAKES 1 LOAF<br />
Banana Bread is a classic go-to recipe when there are bananas getting overly ripe, which is when they have the best flavor. In my<br />
opinion, you should never eat a banana unless it is covered with dark spots. Bright yellow is not good enough. But it’s a quick trip<br />
from “perfection” to “on the way out,” which is where banana bread comes in. Crunchy pecans add some textural interest to this<br />
version, which is scented by rum as well as spices. Serve this aromatic bread for breakfast spread with cream cheese mixed with dried<br />
fruit, or topped with a hot fruit compote for dessert.<br />
½ cup chopped pecans<br />
½ cup millet flour<br />
½ cup brown rice flour<br />
½ cup tapioca flour<br />
¹⁄3 cup cornstarch<br />
1½ teaspoons gluten-free baking powder<br />
1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin or agar powder<br />
¾ teaspoon xanthan gum<br />
½ teaspoon fine salt<br />
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg<br />
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter,<br />
at room temperature<br />
½ cup granulated sugar<br />
½ cup firmly packed dark<br />
brown sugar<br />
1 large egg, at room temperature<br />
1 cup very ripe mashed bananas<br />
(2 or 3, depending on size)<br />
¼ cup dark rum, or ½ teaspoon<br />
rum extract mixed with<br />
¼ cup water<br />
¼ cup buttermilk, shaken<br />
1 ripe banana, thinly sliced<br />
(optional)<br />
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease an 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray. Place<br />
the pecans on a baking sheet and toast them for 5 to 7 minutes, or until browned.<br />
2. Combine the millet flour, rice flour, tapioca flour, cornstarch, baking powder, gelatin, xanthan<br />
gum, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large, deep mixing bowl and whisk well.<br />
3. Combine the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat at<br />
low speed to combine, then raise the speed to high and beat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and<br />
fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the egg, mashed bananas, rum, and<br />
buttermilk. Beat at medium speed until smooth. Add the dry ingredients at low speed and beat<br />
for 2 minutes. Stir in the pecans.<br />
4. Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in<br />
water. Place overlapping slices of banana on top of the dough, if using.<br />
5. Bake the bread for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out<br />
clean. Check the bread after 30 minutes and cover it loosely with aluminum foil if it is getting too<br />
brown. Place the pan on a cooling rack and let cool for 30 minutes, then turn the bread out of the<br />
pan and serve.<br />
Note: The bread can be served hot or at room temperature. Once cool, keep it refrigerated, tightly<br />
wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days. ■<br />
PHOTO AND COPY FROM GLUTEN-<br />
FREE BREAD BY ELLEN BROWN.<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE LEGATO;<br />
COPYRIGHT © 2013 RUNNING<br />
PRESS, A MEMBER OF THE<br />
PERSEUS BOOKS GROUP<br />
4 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Easy Gluten-Free<br />
Luckily for people who have been diagnosed with celiac disease and others who<br />
may find they feel better avoiding gluten, following a gluten-free diet is easier<br />
today than ever before. There are more ready-made gluten-free <strong>food</strong> products on<br />
the shelves, but it’s possible to make delicious homemade <strong>food</strong>s using gluten-free<br />
ingredients, including bread. This recipe by veteran <strong>food</strong>ie Ellen Brown, founding<br />
<strong>food</strong> editor of USA Today and author of more than 35 cookbooks, including the<br />
recently-released Gluten-Free Bread, shows you can even easily make the everpopular<br />
banana bread with the right balance of protein-rich flours and starches.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 5
kitchen skills<br />
Science Meets Art<br />
BY JASON ROSS<br />
Culinary Instructor<br />
Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota<br />
Many cooks play willy-nilly with<br />
recipes, creating as they go.<br />
Pastries cooks, however, more<br />
alchemist than artist, stick to the rules<br />
and follow recipes as written. That’s the<br />
general belief at least.<br />
While rules of weights and measures<br />
hold up for the pastry cook 95 percent<br />
of the time, there are exceptions. There<br />
are desserts where pastry cooks should<br />
feel free to change things up, mixing and<br />
matching as they please.<br />
As scary as they may sound, soufflés<br />
actually have wide latitude and can be<br />
easily adapted to whatever happens to be<br />
in the refrigerator. A successful soufflé, all<br />
puffed up, crunchy on the top, and meltingly<br />
soft inside, has more to do with an<br />
eye for good consistency and touch than<br />
accurate weights or adherence to recipes.<br />
Soufflés have two basics parts. Something<br />
flavorful forms the first part, the<br />
base: melted chocolate, fruit sauces or<br />
jams, nut butters, or coffee extracts,<br />
thickened with a few egg yolks. The<br />
second part, whipped egg whites, lightens<br />
the base and makes the magic that drives<br />
the soufflé up and over the rim of the dish<br />
as it cooks, forming the signature brown,<br />
crisped crown.<br />
The ratios and amounts of the two parts<br />
can vary and still hold a reasonably stable<br />
soufflé. For every 4 egg whites, use roughly<br />
1 tablespoon sugar. Adjust the amounts<br />
to vary the thickness of the soufflé’s rising<br />
power or level of eggy-ness.<br />
Once you get the hang of folding<br />
whipped whites into a base, throwing<br />
together a quick soufflé can be as easy as<br />
poking your head into the refrigerator for<br />
a few eggs and mixing up whatever you<br />
happen to have on hand.<br />
TRICKS of the TRADE:<br />
Whipping egg whites.<br />
• Clean the bowl and whisk well before use.<br />
• Ensure the egg whites are “clean,” containing no bits of broken yolks.<br />
Fat will disrupt the egg whites from whipping and forming a fluffy white<br />
mixture.<br />
• Do not over-whip the egg whites, as this will cause the “foam” to break<br />
and liquid will seep out on the bottom. Once the whites form a soft peak<br />
when pulled from the whisk, stop.<br />
Folding. Folding combines light mixtures with heavy mixtures without<br />
collapsing the lighter mixture.<br />
• First, thin out the heavy mixture with about ¹⁄3 of the lighter mixture,<br />
mixing freely.<br />
• Next, add the rest of the light mixture and begin folding. With a rubber<br />
spatula, cut down to the bottom of the bowl. Run the spatula along the<br />
bottom of the bowl, scraping the mixture up the side of the bowl (the<br />
spatula edge should stay pressed against the bowl as you fold). Turn the<br />
bowl a quarter turn and repeat until mixtures are incorporated.<br />
PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS<br />
6 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Quick Chocolate Soufflé<br />
MAKES 6 SERVINGS<br />
2 to 3 tablespoons butter<br />
2 to 3 tablespoons sugar<br />
For the base<br />
3 egg yolks, at room temperature<br />
1 teaspoon brandy<br />
¼ cup sugar<br />
6 ounces semisweet or dark chocolate, melted<br />
For the whipped egg whites<br />
3 egg whites<br />
¾ tablespoon sugar<br />
pinch salt<br />
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Generously butter 6 ramekins and dust with sugar.<br />
2. For the base: In a bowl or mixer, whisk together egg yolks, brandy, and<br />
sugar. (If the eggs are too cold when added to the chocolate, it can seize<br />
up and cool down.) Sugar should completely dissolve and mixture should<br />
thicken and shift from bright orange to pale yellow. This is known as ribbon<br />
stage yolks. Stir in chocolate with a spatula. Set aside.<br />
3. For the whipped egg whites: In a bowl or mixer, whisk egg whites until<br />
frothy and starting to thicken. Add ¾ tablespoons sugar and pinch salt and<br />
continue to whip. Mixture should form a soft peak as it pulls from whisk.<br />
4. Using a rubber spatula, mix roughly ¹⁄3 of egg whites into chocolate<br />
mixture until fully incorporated. This lightens the chocolate mixture and<br />
helps to protect the air caught in the remaining egg whites and drive up<br />
the soufflé as it cooks. Add remaining egg whites and carefully fold until<br />
fully mixed with no streaks.<br />
5. Using a spoon, drop soufflé batter into ramekins. Level with top of ramekin<br />
using the back of a knife. The batter-filled ramekins can be prepared up to<br />
a day in advance and stored in the refrigerator.<br />
6. Place soufflés on a tray and in oven. Bake until they rise and form a<br />
browned crown, roughly 10 minutes. Give pan a gentle shake; soufflés<br />
should hold their shape and not appear liquidy.<br />
7. When soufflés are done, remove from oven and serve immediately<br />
as they will start to deflate as they cool. Slide a metal spatula under hot<br />
ramekins to move onto plates and serve with Chocolate Whipped Cream.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
Chocolate Whipped Cream<br />
MAKES 2 CUPS<br />
½ teaspoon vanilla<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
1. In a bowl or mixer, combine vanilla, sugar, and cocoa. Pour in ¼ cup cream<br />
and mix until combined. Pour in remaining cream and whip until thick. The<br />
whipped cream should form a soft peak on an upturned whisk.<br />
Cook’s Note: Fresh whipped cream is best used the same day, but could be<br />
stored overnight in the refrigerator. Sometimes after storage the whipped<br />
cream will “break,” leaving a telltale sign of liquid at the bottom of the container<br />
and slightly deflated and grainy<br />
textured whipped cream. You might be<br />
able to re-whisk the whipped cream for<br />
a few seconds to restore the creamy<br />
texture, if it hasn’t gone too far. ■<br />
1 tablespoon cocoa<br />
1 cup heavy cream<br />
NUTRITION<br />
QUICK CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ:<br />
PER SERVING: CALORIES 399<br />
(239 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 16g);<br />
CHOL 148mg; SODIUM 105mg;<br />
CARB 38g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g<br />
5.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 7
Those who love to cook make more than <strong>food</strong> in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing<br />
stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has<br />
been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor <strong>food</strong>—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about<br />
Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
welcome<br />
LUNDS<br />
Bloomington: 952-896-0092<br />
Edina: 952-926-6833<br />
Minneapolis<br />
Downtown: 612-379-5040<br />
Northeast: 612-548-3820<br />
Uptown: 612-825-2440<br />
Minnetonka: 952-935-0198<br />
Navarre: 952-471-8473<br />
Plymouth: 763-268-1624<br />
Prior Lake: 952-440-3900<br />
Richfield: 612-861-1881<br />
St. Paul: 651-698-5845<br />
Wayzata: 952-476-2222<br />
BYERLY’S<br />
Burnsville: 952-892-5600<br />
Chanhassen: 952-474-1298<br />
Eagan: 651-686-9669<br />
Edina: 952-831-3601<br />
Golden Valley: 763-544-8846<br />
Maple Grove: 763-416-1611<br />
Ridgedale: 952-541-1414<br />
Roseville: 651-633-6949<br />
St. Cloud: 320-252-4112<br />
St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100<br />
St. Paul: 651-735-6340<br />
SHOP ONLINE<br />
LundsandByerlys.com<br />
FOOD QUESTIONS?<br />
Get answers from our FoodE Experts.<br />
952-548-1400<br />
Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m–6 p.m.<br />
CLASSES & EVENTS<br />
Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409<br />
Catering • 952-897-9800<br />
REAL FOOD COMMENTS<br />
Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663<br />
STAY CONNECTED:<br />
Sign up for our e-newsletter<br />
at LundsandByerlys.com<br />
Download our app by<br />
texting LBAPP to 55155.<br />
Join our Text Club by<br />
texting DEALS to 55155.<br />
INSPIRED<br />
KITCHEN<br />
In our never-ending quest to push the<br />
envelope for <strong>food</strong> service and product<br />
offerings, we will be opening a chefdriven,<br />
first-of-its-kind <strong>food</strong> destination<br />
in the Twin Cities in early March called<br />
Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />
As the name implies, Lunds and<br />
Byerly’s Kitchen will focus extensively<br />
on freshly prepared <strong>food</strong>s. It will feature<br />
everything from a restaurant with<br />
a beer and wine bar to an impressive<br />
array of made-to-order sandwiches,<br />
sushi, a charcuterie with cut-to-order<br />
meats, and more—all available for dinein<br />
or take-out.<br />
If you just need to visit Lunds and<br />
Byerly’s Kitchen for a few staple items<br />
such as milk, bread, and fresh produce,<br />
we’ll have you covered there, too. For a<br />
much wider selection of grocery offerings,<br />
you’ll be able to place an order<br />
using our online grocery shopping service<br />
at LundsandByerlys.com, and your<br />
order will be available for next-day<br />
pickup at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />
Inspiration for our newest concept<br />
came, in part, from visits to national<br />
and international trendsetters in the<br />
<strong>food</strong> service industry. Much of our<br />
inspiration was also driven internally<br />
from our amazingly talented team of<br />
culinary experts and our successful<br />
Creations Café at Byerly’s Golden Valley<br />
and Byerly’s<br />
Ridgedale.<br />
Our chefs have<br />
developed many<br />
seasonal offerings<br />
featuring <strong>food</strong>s<br />
and flavors from<br />
around the world<br />
along with many<br />
comfort <strong>food</strong>s<br />
we Minnesotans know and love. We’ll<br />
be using innovative technology in the<br />
restaurant so you can browse the menu,<br />
view recommended wine and local beer<br />
pairings, and place your order with the<br />
tap of a button.<br />
I encourage you to turn to the following<br />
pages to learn much more about<br />
Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. It truly is a<br />
unique hybrid that combines our proven<br />
acumen for retail and <strong>food</strong> service.<br />
We hope you’ll find some time to<br />
visit our new location when it opens<br />
on March 6. If you do, please be sure<br />
to let us know what you think.<br />
Sincerely,<br />
Tres Lund<br />
Chairman and CEO<br />
Tres<br />
Lund<br />
Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys<br />
Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys<br />
Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys<br />
LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 9
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
sea<strong>food</strong><br />
10 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
sea<strong>food</strong><br />
Coho salmon caught exclusively<br />
for Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
BY MARY SMITH, Alaskan fisherman<br />
It’s still dark out when the captain yells,<br />
“rise and shine!” You can’t argue with<br />
the captain (even if he is your husband).<br />
I roll out of the bunk and pull on my wool<br />
socks and rubber boots. We have about 15<br />
minutes before we have to set the gear; just<br />
enough time to make a pot of strong coffee<br />
and eat a granola bar. It’s early September<br />
in Alaska and even though the summer has<br />
been sunnier than normal, it’s still pretty<br />
chilly out at 5 a.m., so I slip on a sweatshirt<br />
and warm hat before heading out on deck.<br />
We set our gear as the sun climbs up over<br />
the mountains. It’s another gorgeous day<br />
on the ocean! My husband David and I are<br />
trollers and owners of Springline Sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />
We harvest wild coho salmon (also known<br />
as silver salmon) exclusively for Lunds and<br />
Byerly’s off the shore of Yakobi Island,<br />
Alaska. Trolling is one of the most intimate<br />
forms of commercial fishing—each salmon<br />
is hooked and brought to the boat individually<br />
and we land each one by hand. We love<br />
having this kind of control over the fish we<br />
catch; it allows us to make sure that each<br />
salmon we handle meets the very highest<br />
quality standards.<br />
Catching salmon is just<br />
a part of our day. We’re a<br />
freezer boat, so after bringing<br />
each batch of fish aboard<br />
our boat, The Virga, we carefully<br />
process them for the<br />
freezing. We clean each fish<br />
to ensure it’s perfect, even<br />
using a tiny, pressurized<br />
hose to finish the process<br />
with surgical precision. It’s<br />
painstaking, but it means when these<br />
salmon head into our deep freeze, they<br />
are absolutely pristine. We like to think of<br />
ourselves as artisans, and our meticulous<br />
process means we can only put up about<br />
100 fish each day.<br />
As soon as the first batch of salmon is<br />
clean, David crawls down into the freezer.<br />
It’s 40 degrees below zero down there, so<br />
we work quickly to load the fish onto their<br />
racks. Because we run a small operation,<br />
we’re able to get our fish landed, processed,<br />
and into the freezer in less than an hour.<br />
That’s what “frozen at sea” <strong>real</strong>ly means.<br />
We’re able to use temperature to essentially<br />
hold that fish at the freshness it was when<br />
it was caught. We call our freezer “The<br />
Time Machine” because it <strong>real</strong>ly stops time<br />
for that fish. When it arrives in the case at<br />
your Lunds or Byerly’s store, you’re seeing<br />
it pretty much as we last saw it in Alaska.<br />
We love being an exclusive supplier to<br />
Lunds and Byerly’s. As a fisherman, it’s a<br />
joy knowing each fish that comes aboard<br />
our boat is destined for a customer who<br />
appreciates quality, value, and sustainability.<br />
And let’s not forget the most important<br />
reason—flavor! Coho salmon have a clean,<br />
fresh flavor that’s tough to beat, and our<br />
process locks in that flavor.<br />
We hope you’ll make the most of this<br />
opportunity to enjoy wild Alaska coho<br />
salmon, harvested exclusively for Lunds and<br />
Byerly’s. It’s not just a chance to eat well; it’s<br />
also a delicious way to support hardworking<br />
artisans at sea catching salmon the good<br />
old-fashioned way. ■<br />
Lunds and Byerly's is committed to offering you a wide variety of responsibly<br />
sourced wild-caught and farm-raised sea<strong>food</strong> through partnerships with<br />
organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices that preserve<br />
and improve our oceans’ ecosystems. Look for our “Responsibly Sourced”<br />
icon for your guarantee that our sea<strong>food</strong> comes from a sustainable fishery.<br />
For more information, visit LundsandByerlys.com/SustainableSea<strong>food</strong>.<br />
LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 11
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
what’s in store<br />
MCCANN’S OATMEAL<br />
Made with rich, chewy Irish oats and flavored with ingredients<br />
sourced from around the globe, McCann’s brings the best the world<br />
has to offer to your bowl. Ready in an instant, you’ll delight in the<br />
wholesome, simple ingredients, heart-healthy whole grains, and four<br />
unique flavor combinations.<br />
Did you know? The temperate, humid climate of Ireland promotes<br />
the slow ripening of this grain. It enables oats to draw the goodness<br />
from the soil and yield up nature’s bounty.<br />
rOBert rOthschiLd<br />
FarM preserVes<br />
New flavors have arrived in the Robert Rothschild Farm collection. Hatch chile<br />
jalapeño jam is a medley of peppers that can be used on panini sandwiches<br />
or in sauces. Stone fruit preserves is a delightful blend of tart cherries, sweet<br />
peaches, and apricots. Spread it on toast or use as a glaze for meats.<br />
Did you know? These gourmet jams and preserves are all natural, gluten free,<br />
and kosher. Visit RobertRothschild.com for recipes and entertaining ideas.<br />
STONEWALL KITCHEN<br />
Prepared in the style of traditional English custard,<br />
Stonewall Kitchen lemon curd adds a regal touch of sweet<br />
and tart to scones, cookies, or your favorite breakfast bread.<br />
This lemon curd is gluten free and made using less than 10<br />
simple ingredients.<br />
Tip: Try lemon curd on our Lunds and Byerly’s angel <strong>food</strong><br />
cake, topped with fresh fruit and a dollop of whipped<br />
cream. It’s rich, creamy, and very versatile. You’ll love it!<br />
12 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
what’s in store<br />
MccLUre’s picKLes<br />
and reLishes<br />
With great grandma’s pickle<br />
recipe at their fingertips, the<br />
McClure brothers sure make<br />
a mean jar of pickles. Every<br />
cucumber is hand sliced and<br />
every jar hand packed. Bob<br />
and Joe use as much local<br />
produce as possible.<br />
Tip: Visit McCluresPickles.com<br />
for tasty recipes, such as<br />
pickle pizza, bloody marys,<br />
marinades, and bloody<br />
mary gumbo.<br />
LUNDS AND BYERLY’S<br />
BEER CHEESE SOUP<br />
Our beer cheese soup you know and<br />
love is now even tastier and features<br />
more local ingredients! Our executive<br />
chefs have packed incredible flavor<br />
into this soup with the addition of local<br />
Land O'Lakes sharp cheddar cheese and<br />
Summit Pilsener, giving it a rich, smooth<br />
taste with an added tang.<br />
Enjoy this flavorful and hearty<br />
soup on our next chilly<br />
Minnesota night.<br />
MERRYVALE<br />
VINEYARD’S<br />
STARMONT<br />
CHARDONNAY<br />
Merryvale Vineyard is known for wines that<br />
are fruit driven and <strong>food</strong> friendly. These wines<br />
reflect the fruit of their Napa Valley heritage with<br />
subtle oak nuances. Starmont Chardonnay is<br />
lively with focused aromas and flavors of apple,<br />
pear, and vanilla.<br />
Tip: For an extra dash of flavor and<br />
crunch, sprinkle popcorn on your beer<br />
cheese soup right before serving. Or<br />
try it with toasted bruschetta topped<br />
with tomato, onion, and prosciutto.<br />
Did you know? Merryvale Vineyard, which<br />
is state of the art and solar powered, crafts<br />
premium wines from sustainably farmed grapes.<br />
LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 13
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
kitchen<br />
Bringing Our<br />
Kitchen to You<br />
Shop. Eat. Drink. Explore.<br />
BY STEVE CARDA, General Manager, Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen<br />
Cozy up to our fireplace with a glass<br />
of wine expertly paired with a chefcrafted<br />
flight of Alaskan salmon.<br />
Stop by to grab soup, salad, or sandwiches<br />
for the whole crew before heading out for<br />
a day of fun around Lake Minnetonka. Or,<br />
simply check milk and bread off the shopping<br />
list on your way home.<br />
You’ll soon be able to do all of this and<br />
more at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen, a firstof-its-kind<br />
<strong>food</strong> destination opening in The<br />
Promenade of Wayzata on March 6. This is<br />
a place for great <strong>food</strong>, personable expertise,<br />
and shopping convenience.<br />
LET’S TAKE A TOUR OF LUNDS<br />
AND BYERLY'S KITCHEN…<br />
Stepping through the glass double doors on<br />
the corner of Superior Boulevard and Mill<br />
Street, you’re welcomed to the restaurant<br />
with mouth-watering aromas drifting from<br />
The 143-seat restaurant and bar will feature chef-crafted<br />
seasonal offerings, stone oven pizzas, burgers, and more. We'll<br />
also have an impressive selection of wine and local craft beers.<br />
the chef’s latest creations. Please feel free to<br />
take a seat at a booth or table (you’ll have<br />
to wait until the snow melts to sit on our<br />
patio). Use the iPad at each table to scroll<br />
through the menu—enjoy stone oven pizzas,<br />
a juicy burger, or seasonal flights of<br />
meats and sea<strong>food</strong>, just to name a few of<br />
our offerings. Once your taste buds decide<br />
on a meal, place your order and pay from<br />
the convenience of the iPad.<br />
If you’d prefer, grab some seats at the beer<br />
and wine bar in the restaurant. Our experts<br />
are happy to suggest a local brew or teach<br />
you why a particular wine pairs perfectly<br />
with your meal.<br />
Just past the restaurant, you’ll find a lot<br />
more meal inspiration and solutions for you<br />
and your family. This includes everything<br />
from made-to-order sandwiches , hand-rolled<br />
sushi prepared daily from master chefs, and<br />
classic comfort <strong>food</strong>s such as meatloaf, mac<br />
& cheese, and our Lunds and Byerly’s soups.<br />
We also have an amazing salad bar featuring<br />
grilled and chilled items such as salmon,<br />
prosciutto, and seasonal vegetables.<br />
You’ll also find a charcuterie station featuring<br />
cut-to-order Italian meats, an impressive<br />
cheese counter with wedges from around the<br />
globe, and a flavor-packed olive and antipasti<br />
bar. As you can see, we’ll have an impressive<br />
array of options for every taste preference.<br />
In fact, you could visit us every day of the<br />
week and pick up something different for<br />
every member of your family.<br />
And if you need a hot drink before<br />
stepping back into that Minnesota chill,<br />
Caribou Coffee is in Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
Kitchen. Caribou is even roasting coffee<br />
beans right on site.<br />
Just before you hit the parking lot, you<br />
can pick up some milk, berries, ground<br />
beef, and more as we have a tailored selection<br />
of groceries you know and love from<br />
our produce, dairy, frozen, bakery, and meat<br />
departments.<br />
For our full Lunds and Byerly’s product<br />
selection, you can place an order through<br />
the iPads in our restaurant or online at<br />
LundsandByerlys.com/ShopOnline. We’ll<br />
have your groceries delivered right to Lunds<br />
and Byerly’s Kitchen where they will be<br />
available for pick up in assigned lockers<br />
located in the entryway adjacent to our<br />
covered parking lot.<br />
Thank you ladies and gentlemen, we<br />
hope you enjoyed your visit!<br />
While your written tour has come to<br />
an end, we hope you join us in person to<br />
explore our next evolution of <strong>food</strong>-service<br />
offerings. Your taste buds will thank you! ■<br />
14 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
kitchen<br />
Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen will focus extensively on freshly prepared <strong>food</strong>s. We'll have<br />
everything from made-to-order sandwiches and sushi to an amazing salad bar and<br />
charcuterie featuring cut-to-order Italian meats. All is available for dine-in or take-out.<br />
Additional offerings will include a tailored selection of groceries, specialty products, and a<br />
Caribou Coffee. Enjoy your coffee or meal in the café seating area adjacent to Caribou.<br />
LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 15
Lunds and Byerly’s<br />
kitchen<br />
Q&A<br />
with<br />
Chef<br />
Greg<br />
Opening:<br />
March 6, 2014<br />
250 Superior Boulevard<br />
Wayzata, MN 55391<br />
Hours:<br />
Sunday-Thursday:<br />
6 a.m. – 10 p.m.<br />
Friday and Saturday:<br />
6 a.m. – 11 p.m.<br />
Let’s stay<br />
connected!<br />
We’re excited to welcome the newest member<br />
of our executive chef team: Greg Johnson. We<br />
sat down with Greg to hear more about his head<br />
chef position at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />
Q: What’s your culinary background?<br />
A: Most recently, I was the executive chef at Kincaid's in St. Paul. I’ve also been a sous<br />
chef at the Dakota Jazz Club and the Blackbird Café in Minneapolis. I worked in San<br />
Francisco for a few years as a sous chef at the Grand Café and the Palomino as well.<br />
Q: What’s your cooking style?<br />
A: Fresh, seasonal, and local. The simpler the better in my opinion. I love getting back to<br />
our roots and cooking from the land. You don’t need five different sauces or an army<br />
of overpowering <strong>food</strong>s. Simplicity showcases the best flavors each dish has to offer.<br />
Q: Why did you want to become a chef?<br />
A: I actually wasn’t sure what I wanted to be. Growing up in a large family meant lots of<br />
<strong>food</strong> all the time, and with my mom constantly cooking for us and for her job, good<br />
<strong>food</strong> was always a part of my life. I looked around and found a culinary program at St.<br />
Cloud Tech that stood out to me. Being a chef <strong>real</strong>ly clicked for me when I worked in<br />
my first kitchen—I have a passion for <strong>food</strong> and love being part of a team. There’s just<br />
an allure to being part of that creativity.<br />
Q: Can you give us a teaser for the new menu?<br />
A: It’s a diverse menu that appeals to every appetite. In addition to a lot of classic comfort<br />
<strong>food</strong>s, we’ll also be offering flights. These are small presentations that allow you to explore<br />
the versatility of a particular <strong>food</strong>. One of my favorites we’re thinking about is a smoked<br />
sea<strong>food</strong> flight: smoked trout with horseradish cream and house pickles, smoked mussel<br />
chowder with rye bread croutons and chive, and dill-cured salmon with creamy herb<br />
spaetzle. We’ll be creating new flights every week using a wide variety of meats and sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />
Join us on Facebook<br />
at Facebook.com/<br />
LundsandByerlysKitchen<br />
or scan the QR code below.<br />
Sign up for email updates<br />
on our menu offerings,<br />
special offers, and events by<br />
visiting LundsandByerlys.<br />
com/Kitchen or scan<br />
the QR code below.<br />
16 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
ingredient<br />
The Good Egg<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
Where would we be without eggs? If you have them in the fridge,<br />
you’ve got endless options for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or dessert.<br />
They're packed with nutrition, cost-effective, and keep much longer<br />
than you may have thought. Here are highlights of this much-loved staple plus a<br />
quick and easy recipe for home or on the go.<br />
Nutrition: Eggs are a very good source of protein and a good source of riboflavin,<br />
vitamin B12 and phosphorus, and selenium—all at only about 72 calories for<br />
one large egg. Many people may have shied away from eggs for fear of dietary<br />
cholesterol. However, more than 40 years of research have shown that healthy<br />
adults can enjoy eggs without significantly impacting their risk of heart disease,<br />
according to the American Egg Board based on information from the United<br />
States Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service.<br />
There are more options when you’re reaching for a carton of eggs these<br />
days. You'll find eggs with increased omega-3 content, or added vitamins, minerals,<br />
or carotenoids, and some have altered fat content. Nutrient-enhanced<br />
eggs are created by varying the hens’ diet. Check labels for nutrient facts.<br />
Color: Egg shell and yolk color may vary, but the color has no relationship to<br />
egg quality, flavor, nutritive value, or cooking characteristics. The breed of hen<br />
determines the color of the shell. Since brown-egg layers are slightly larger birds<br />
and require more <strong>food</strong>, that’s the reason brown eggs are usually more expensive<br />
than white.<br />
Storing: It’s best to store eggs on an inside shelf in your fridge. You can keep<br />
fresh, uncooked eggs in the shell refrigerated (at 35 to 45°F ) in their cartons for<br />
about three weeks after you bring them home, according to the American Egg<br />
Board. Refrigerate hard-boiled eggs in their shells and use within one week.<br />
Microwave Coffee<br />
Cup Scramble<br />
MAKES 1 SERVING<br />
For a quick and easy breakfast in less<br />
than 3 minutes, try this microwave<br />
egg scramble. Just add your favorite<br />
toppings and take it to go!<br />
2 eggs<br />
2 tablespoons milk<br />
2 tablespoons shredded<br />
Cheddar cheese<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
1. Coat a 12-ounce microwave-safe<br />
coffee mug with cooking spray. Add<br />
eggs and milk; beat until blended.<br />
2. Microwave on high 45 seconds; stir.<br />
Microwave until eggs are almost set,<br />
30 to 45 seconds longer. (Microwave<br />
ovens vary. Cooking times may need<br />
to be adjusted.)<br />
3. Top with cheese; season with salt<br />
and pepper.<br />
Note: Never microwave eggs in<br />
shells. Steam builds up too quickly<br />
inside and eggs are likely to explode.<br />
Go for Yolk With the exception of niacin and riboflavin, the yolk<br />
contains a higher proportion of the egg’s vitamins than the white,<br />
including B6 and B12, folic acid, pantothenic acid, thiamin, calcium,<br />
copper, iron, manganese, phosphorus, selenium, and zinc. All of<br />
the egg’s vitamins A, D, E and K are in the yolk. (The yolk of one<br />
large egg contains about 55 calories.)<br />
Source: American Egg Board<br />
RECIPE AND TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN EGG BOARD.<br />
VISIT INCREDIBLEEGG.ORG FOR NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION AND MORE RECIPES.<br />
BOTTOM PHOTO: © MSK.NINA - FOTOLIA.COM<br />
17 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
celebrate<br />
Infuse your meals<br />
with the sunny sweet<br />
tang of citrus fruit.<br />
citrusBY ROBIN ASBELL<br />
18 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN<br />
FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 19
As winter fades to spring, we can’t help but crave sunshine. And while you can’t buy a basket of<br />
sunshine, you can fill your cart with the next best thing—tart and sweet citrus fruits to brighten<br />
your favorite <strong>food</strong>s.<br />
It’s the perfect time to celebrate citrus in all its tangy glory. Lemons, limes, and oranges<br />
are so integral to our kitchens that produce managers make sure they’re available year-round.<br />
More exotic citrus fruits, such as blood oranges and kumquats, are only available in the cold months,<br />
so now is the time to enjoy it. The supply will be winding down as we approach summer and the<br />
bounty of warm-weather fruit takes its place. Welcome spring with these sunny citrus recipes.<br />
Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and Avocado Salad<br />
with Kumquat Dressing<br />
Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />
Everybody wants their salads to have some “zazz,” and this one delivers, with its colorful, juicy citrus<br />
and meltingly soft avocados. The dressing makes good use of kumquats, the tiny fruits that are mostly<br />
peel, by cooking thin slices in a syrup and dressing the salad with them. If kumquats aren’t available,<br />
key limes or other small limes can be substituted.<br />
Dressing<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
2 tablespoons water<br />
2 medium kumquats or ½ key lime,<br />
thinly sliced<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper<br />
1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil<br />
Salad<br />
1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried,<br />
and torn<br />
2 medium red grapefruit<br />
2 medium Cara Cara oranges<br />
2 large avocados<br />
2 medium scallions, slivered<br />
1. For the dressing: In a 1-quart pot, stir together sugar<br />
and water, and place over high heat. Stir to dissolve<br />
sugar as it comes to a boil and add kumquat. Reduce<br />
heat to just barely bubble and cook 5 minutes. Remove<br />
from heat and let cool slightly. Stir in salt and pepper.<br />
2. Using a sharp chef's knife, cut peel and pith from<br />
grapefruits and cut along membranes to remove sections,<br />
holding fruit over a bowl to catch juice. When<br />
all sections have been removed, hold remaining membrane<br />
over a cup and squeeze to get all juice. Whisk<br />
3 tablespoons grapefruit juice into dressing. Whisk in<br />
lemon juice and oil. Reserve.<br />
3. For the salad: On 4 large salad plates or a platter,<br />
spread lettuce. Cover with grapefruit. Section oranges<br />
in same manner as grapefruit and distribute over grapefruit.<br />
Cut each avocado in half and twist out pit. Using a<br />
sharp paring knife, slice avocado flesh in shell then use<br />
a soupspoon to scoop out. Fan half an avocado over<br />
each salad or all of it over platter. Sprinkle with scallions,<br />
drizzle with dressing, and serve.<br />
orange photo © seralex - Fotolia.com<br />
20 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and<br />
Avocado Salad with Kumquat Dressing<br />
»Citrus Appeal Freshly squeezed orange, grapefruit, or<br />
blood-orange juice is great on its own or blended into dressings<br />
and sauces. And limes are essential to Mexican cuisine, adding<br />
that hint of tartness to guacamole, salsa, or meat dishes.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 21
»Add Some Zest! The bright outer layer of<br />
the peel is a potent source of flavor, and many<br />
dishes benefit from a grating of it.<br />
Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce<br />
over Lemony Spinach Rice<br />
22 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce<br />
over Lemony Spinach Rice<br />
Makes 4 servings<br />
We eat with our eyes first, and when you serve this brilliantly<br />
colored plate, all eyes will be upon the gorgeous red sauce.<br />
Blood oranges, sometimes called Moro oranges, have deep red<br />
juice that is usually tarter than a typical orange. This simple<br />
sauce puts the unique blood-red juice front and center drizzled<br />
over the pink salmon atop a green-flecked bed of rice.<br />
Rice<br />
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil<br />
1 large onion, chopped<br />
2 2-inch strips lemon zest<br />
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
1 cup brown basmati rice or<br />
other long-grain brown rice<br />
2 cups (2½ ounces) salad spinach, coarsely chopped<br />
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice<br />
Salmon in Sauce<br />
6 large blood oranges<br />
2 tablespoons unbleached flour<br />
½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper<br />
1 teaspoon salt, divided<br />
2 tablespoons canola oil<br />
4 4-ounce salmon fillets<br />
2 tablespoons honey<br />
2 tablespoons butter<br />
4 tablespoons capers, rinsed<br />
1. For the rice: Heat oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Add onion. Bring<br />
to a sizzle, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until soft, up<br />
to 15 minutes. Add zest, stock, and salt, and bring to a boil over<br />
high heat. Add rice, return to a boil, and cover tightly before<br />
reducing heat to low. Cook 40 to 50 minutes, until all liquids<br />
are absorbed. Remove from heat and fold in spinach and lemon<br />
juice. Cover 3 to 5 minutes to wilt spinach. Serve hot.<br />
2. For the salmon with sauce: While rice is cooking, use a chef’s<br />
knife to remove peel and pith from 2 blood oranges. Cut into<br />
round slices. Using the tip of a paring knife, pick out any seeds.<br />
Zest and juice remaining oranges and reserve.<br />
3. In a pie pan or on a plate, mix flour, pepper, and half of salt.<br />
Coat salmon with mixture.<br />
4. In a large sauté pan, heat oil until shimmering. Place salmon<br />
skin side up in hot oil. Cook 1 minute, carefully flip, and cook 2 to<br />
3 minutes for thin fillets, 3 to 4 minutes longer for thicker ones.<br />
When cooked through, remove to a plate and cover loosely to<br />
keep warm.<br />
5. Wipe out pan and return to heat. Add blood-orange juice, zest,<br />
honey, and remaining salt. Swirl and stir until juice cooks down<br />
to a syrupy consistency. Swirl in butter. Add orange slices and<br />
capers, and warm gently. Serve each salmon filet on ¾ cup rice,<br />
topped with orange slices and blood-orange sauce.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 23
Lemon-Raspberry Coffeecake<br />
with Mandarin-Orange Sauce<br />
Makes 9 servings<br />
Brighten your day with this tender, tangy cake studded with<br />
red raspberries and drizzled with orange sauce. Serve it for<br />
breakfast or a snack with coffee, tea, or a glass of cold milk.<br />
Coffeecake<br />
1½ cups unbleached flour<br />
1 teaspoon baking powder<br />
½ teaspoon baking soda<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ cup butter, chilled and divided<br />
½ cup sugar<br />
1 large egg<br />
1¼ cups plain yogurt<br />
1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />
1 teaspoon vanilla<br />
1 tablespoon lemon zest<br />
2 cups raspberries<br />
¼ cup turbinado sugar<br />
Sauce<br />
1 cup tangerine juice<br />
1 teaspoon tangerine zest<br />
½ cup sugar<br />
¹⁄8 teaspoon salt<br />
2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional)<br />
¼ cup water<br />
2 tablespoons cornstarch<br />
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
1. For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-inch square baking<br />
pan.<br />
2. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda,<br />
and salt.<br />
3. In a stand mixer or large bowl using an electric mixer, beat<br />
butter and sugar until light, scraping down 2 or 3 times. Beat<br />
in egg. In a glass measuring cup, combine yogurt, lemon juice,<br />
and vanilla, add half of yogurt mixture, and beat in. Add a third<br />
of flour mixture, beat in, beat in remaining yogurt mixture, and<br />
then beat in remaining flour mixture. Scrape down and stir until<br />
smooth but don't over-beat. Fold in the lemon zest.<br />
4. Scrape mixture into pan and top with berries, lightly patting<br />
into batter. Sprinkle turbinado sugar over cake. Bake 30 to 35<br />
minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.<br />
Cool in pan 10 minutes before slicing.<br />
5. For the sauce: In a 1-quart pan, combine juice, zest, sugar,<br />
and salt. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil and cook just<br />
until sugar dissolves. Add orange liqueur and stir. In a cup, whisk<br />
together water and cornstarch, and whisk into bubbling juices.<br />
Whisk until sauce is thickened and shiny. Remove from heat<br />
and whisk in butter.<br />
6. Serve slices of cake drizzled with sauce.<br />
Lemon Pudding and<br />
Lime Curd Parfaits<br />
Makes 5 servings<br />
A parfait is best when built with complementary textures and<br />
flavors, layered to provide maximum excitement. These deliver,<br />
with creamy, mildly lemony pudding; tangy lime curd; and soft,<br />
sweet whipped cream. To save time, make the pudding and<br />
curd up to three days ahead and assemble up to two days before<br />
serving, topping with whipped cream just before serving.<br />
Pudding<br />
½ cup sugar<br />
¼ cup cornstarch<br />
2 cups whole milk or half-and-half<br />
1 pinch salt<br />
¼ cup fresh lemon juice<br />
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest, finely grated<br />
Curd<br />
½ cup fresh lime juice<br />
½ cup sugar<br />
3 large eggs<br />
4 tablespoons butter, diced<br />
2 teaspoons fresh lime zest<br />
Whipped Cream<br />
½ cup heavy cream<br />
2 tablespoons powdered sugar<br />
½ teaspoon vanilla<br />
1. For the pudding: In a 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan,<br />
whisk together sugar, cornstarch, milk, and salt until cornstarch<br />
is dissolved. Place over medium heat. Whisk constantly until<br />
pudding thickens. Let mixture start to bubble then remove from<br />
heat. Whisk in lemon juice, butter, and zest, and transfer to a<br />
bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap onto surface of<br />
pudding, and chill.<br />
2. For the curd: Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl. In<br />
a 1- or 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together lime<br />
juice, sugar, and egg. Stir in butter. Place over medium-low heat,<br />
and whisk constantly until mixture becomes thick enough to<br />
coat back of a spoon, taking care not to let it boil. Remove from<br />
heat and pour through sieve, using a rubber spatula to force it<br />
through. Use spatula to scrape curd from bottom of sieve into<br />
bowl. Stir in lime zest and cover with plastic wrap, pressing<br />
wrap onto surface of curd. Chill.<br />
3. In 5 wine glasses or dessert bowls that will hold 1 cup, scoop<br />
¼ cup pudding and top with 2 tablespoons curd, dropping along<br />
edge of glass so it will show from side. Top with another ¼ cup<br />
pudding then 2 more tablespoons curd. Parfaits can be chilled,<br />
covered with plastic wrap, up to 2 days. Serve cold.<br />
4. For the whipped cream: In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment<br />
or large bowl with an electric mixer, combine cream,<br />
powdered sugar, and vanilla. Turn mixer to high and beat until<br />
cream is fluffy and holds soft peaks. Top each parfait with<br />
3 tablespoons whipped cream just before serving. <br />
24 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
leMon-raspBerry CoffeeCake with<br />
ManDarin-orange sauCe anD leMon<br />
puDDing anD liMe CurD parfaits<br />
NUTRITION<br />
RED GRAPEFRUIT, CARA CARA<br />
ORANGE, & AVOCADO SALAD<br />
W. KUMQUAT DRESSING:<br />
per serving: Calories 286 (169<br />
from fat); fat 20g (sat. 3g); Chol 0mg;<br />
soDiuM 244mg; CarB 29g; fiBer 8g;<br />
protein 3g<br />
SALMON IN BLOOD-ORANGE SAUCE<br />
OVER LEMONY SPINACH RICE:<br />
per serving: Calories 701 (238 from<br />
fat); fat 27g (sat. 7g); Chol 80mg;<br />
soDiuM 1331mg; CarB 84g; fiBer 12g;<br />
protein 35g<br />
LEMON-RASPBERRY COFFEECAKE<br />
W. MANDARIN-ORANGE SAUCE:<br />
per serving: Calories 369 (127 from<br />
fat); fat 14g (sat. 9g); Chol 57mg;<br />
soDiuM 410mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 3g;<br />
protein 5g<br />
LEMON PUDDING &<br />
LIME CURD PARFAITS:<br />
per serving: Calories 498 (244 from<br />
fat); fat 28g (sat. 16g); Chol 185mg;<br />
soDiuM 199mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 0g;<br />
protein 8g<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 25
Spirited<br />
Dishes<br />
Cooking grows up with the addition of a little alcohol.<br />
by Serena Bass<br />
Photography Terry Brennan<br />
Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />
26 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
C<br />
hicken fingers and PBJs can hit the spot, but every now and<br />
then, it is exhilarating to act like a grownup and start splashing<br />
some alcohol around in the kitchen. Whether you turn to wine,<br />
beer, or spirits, any form of alcohol can improve a dish’s depth of<br />
flavor and lend a shot of sophistication.<br />
These recipes include a variety of alcohol, from Belgian white<br />
beer used straight in a vinaigrette to powerful French Armagnac<br />
flambéed then soothed with cream and apple cider. When you’re<br />
sautéing with rich fats like duck fat, goose fat, or butter, wine<br />
or spirits lend some acidic balance. Hard liquor, like bourbon<br />
and rum, have a wonderful lingering perfume even when<br />
the alcohol content is mostly cooked away.<br />
When cooking with a red wine, use something full-bodied,<br />
like a Shiraz or Zinfandel; dry red wine can often be too<br />
harsh. For a white wine, choose something fragrant, like<br />
a Sauvignon Blanc. If you’ve never used alcohol in your<br />
cooking, now is the time to start.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 27
28 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />
Pasta with Spicy Sausage,<br />
Vodka, and Baby Peas
Pasta with Spicy Sausage, Vodka,<br />
and Baby Peas<br />
Makes 8 to 10 servings<br />
This is a wonderfully adaptable recipe. I occasionally up the pepper flakes and<br />
add a couple cups of chopped sweet red peppers with the onions. I’ve used all<br />
marinara sauce and no cream, or subbed in oregano and thyme for the rosemary.<br />
You can make it your own. Invest in high-quality vodka, as cheaper stuff can<br />
taste harsh. Use a stainless-steel saucepan with high sides; the sausage won’t break<br />
up well in a nonstick pan and will just keep sliding around. This sauce freezes<br />
particularly well, so I always make more than needed and then have a great treat<br />
for a midweek dinner, ready in minutes.<br />
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
1 cup yellow onion, cut in ½-inch dice<br />
3 tablespoons chopped garlic<br />
½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste<br />
2 tablespoons minced lemon zest, removed with a peeler<br />
3 pounds spicy Italian sausage, casing removed<br />
1 cup Absolut Peppar vodka<br />
2 tablespoons minced rosemary<br />
2 cups heavy cream<br />
2 cups marinara sauce<br />
¼ cup per person frozen baby green peas (see note for freezing)<br />
orecchiette or medium shell pasta<br />
1. Melt butter, add onion, and cook over medium heat 8 minutes, until translucent.<br />
Add garlic, pepper flakes, and lemon zest, and gently sauté 1 minute. Crumble<br />
in sausage, breaking up against side of pan and chopping with a heavy wooden<br />
spoon until the sausage is broken up and there's hardly any pink left. This can<br />
take 10 minutes.<br />
2. Add vodka and cook 3 minutes. Add rosemary, cream, and marinara. Stir to<br />
mix and bring to a simmer. Cover, adjust heat so sauce just simmers, and cook<br />
45 minutes.<br />
3. If not serving entire recipe immediately, remove excess to a sealed container<br />
and freeze.<br />
4. Just before serving, add the uncooked, defrosted peas, and stir; they will cook<br />
quickly in the heat of the sauce and give a wonderful pop of sweetness.<br />
Ideally, serve with orecchiette or medium shells to capture the creamy sauce.<br />
»For freezing: Peas are added just before serving so if you plan to freeze some<br />
of this dish, do not add peas and wait until serving. Calculate only the ¼ cup peas<br />
per person for what you plan to use right away.<br />
Is There Still Alcohol<br />
in that Dish?<br />
The addition of alcohol gives many<br />
dishes a wonderful, aromatic<br />
punch, but it may not be for everyone.<br />
I long assumed that virtually<br />
all the alcohol would cook out of<br />
a dish once it has been variously<br />
simmered, boiled, or flambéed.<br />
In fact this is far from true; different<br />
modes and lengths of cooking<br />
present different results.<br />
In <strong>real</strong>ity, the amount of alcohol<br />
remaining after cooking ranges<br />
from 5 to 85 percent, according to<br />
a study from the U.S. Department<br />
of Agriculture's Nutrient Data<br />
Laboratory. And the variations<br />
aren’t just dependent on how long<br />
you keep the temperature above<br />
173°F, alcohol’s boiling point.<br />
The size of the cooking vessel<br />
greatly affects the alcohol-retention<br />
rate; the smaller the vessel,<br />
the more alcohol is retained due<br />
to the reduced surface area for<br />
evaporation.<br />
This study revealed that alcohol<br />
content diminishes with<br />
cooking time. After liquor has<br />
been poured on <strong>food</strong>s and then<br />
set alight—flambéed—approximately<br />
75 percent of the alcohol<br />
remains after the flames have died<br />
down. After being added to <strong>food</strong><br />
that is then baked or simmered<br />
for 15 minutes, 40 percent of the<br />
alcohol will be retained. After<br />
cooking for an hour, about 25<br />
percent will remain. The lowest<br />
percentage of alcohol left after<br />
cooking—around 5 percent—is in<br />
stews that are cooked at least 2½<br />
hours. The amount of alcohol in an<br />
individual serving will be quite low,<br />
but keep these highlights in mind if<br />
alcohol is a concern to you or your<br />
dinner guests.<br />
For more information, visit<br />
nutrition-profiles.com and click<br />
on “Cooking with Alcohol.”<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 29
Chicken Breast with<br />
Calvados and Apples<br />
30 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Chicken Breast with<br />
Calvados and Apples<br />
Makes 4 servings<br />
This looks like a long recipe, but it just has a few specific parts. It is hardly<br />
a slimming dish, mainly because it is derived from an ancient French<br />
recipe from Normandy. That particular area of France is the epicenter of<br />
exquisite butter and cream, delicious tart yet sweet apples, and Calvados,<br />
a fortified apple brandy. The original recipe uses pheasant, and everything<br />
is braised for hours. I have modernized the method with no reduction in<br />
flavor using easily found ingredients. Use organic chicken and cream, and<br />
high-quality butter.<br />
4 skinless boneless organic chicken breasts<br />
6 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice<br />
¼ cup Calvados or cognac<br />
4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, quartered,<br />
and cut into 12 wedges<br />
2 cups cloudy apple cider<br />
2 cups organic heavy cream<br />
2 cups homemade chicken stock (not reduced-sodium)<br />
1. Fold each chicken breast in a paper towel and, using a heavy pan, smash<br />
thick end a few times to equalize thickness. Dust both sides well with salt<br />
and freshly ground black pepper.<br />
2. Melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a heavy sauté pan that<br />
will hold chicken in an even layer. When butter stops sizzling, increase<br />
heat to medium-high and add chicken. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, turning every<br />
2 minutes.<br />
3. Halfway through, add lemon juice, which will sizzle and evaporate. The<br />
steam will help cook the chicken, and the flavor will balance the richness.<br />
When chicken is nearly done (cut the breast to check for a little bit of uncooked<br />
chicken), turn off heat.<br />
4. In a small pan, warm Calvados over medium-low heat 1 minute to cook<br />
off some of the alcohol. Using a long taper or lighter, light Calvados in pan<br />
and pour over chicken with 1 circular movement. Shake pan and be brave;<br />
the flames will dissipate after several seconds. Using a heatproof rubber<br />
spatula, remove chicken and juices to a rimmed plate.<br />
5. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in sauté pan. Add apples, dust with<br />
salt and freshly ground black pepper, and sauté over medium-high heat<br />
8 minutes, flipping occasionally, until they just start to caramelize. Reduce<br />
heat if they start to burn. Scrape apples onto plate with chicken.<br />
6. Pour cider, cream, and stock into pan. Bring to a boil and cook 15 minutes,<br />
scraping edges occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened. Turn off heat.<br />
7. Add chicken, apples, and juices, and warm over low heat. If not serving<br />
immediately, transfer to an ovenproof serving dish and set aside unrefrigerated<br />
up to 4 hours. Reheat in a 300°F oven 20 to 25 minutes; sauce shouldn’t<br />
come anywhere near boiling. Serve with celery-root mash and steamed haricots<br />
verts.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 31
Marinade with Dark Sherry,<br />
Orange, and Chilies<br />
Makes 2 cups<br />
This marinade is wonderful with steak, chicken breasts or thighs, or pork chops<br />
on the bone. Just marinate for 2 hours and grill or pan sear to your liking. It<br />
has an Asian influence and pairs well with a quick vegetable stir-fry and some<br />
chewy short-grain brown rice with a handful of chopped cilantro and mint.<br />
Be sure to use dark sweet sherry (Harveys Bristol Cream is my favorite).<br />
3 tablespoons dark sherry<br />
3 packed tablespoons dark brown sugar<br />
½ cup vegetable oil<br />
²⁄3 cup soy sauce<br />
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated<br />
2 teaspoons crushed garlic<br />
1 tablespoon grated orange zest<br />
1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste<br />
¼ cup scallions, green and white parts finely minced<br />
1. Whisk together all ingredients in a bowl. This will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.<br />
32 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
» Pepper Tip I have a grinding<br />
trick! Try grinding 10 times on<br />
your mill and see how much of a<br />
teaspoon you have. Mine grinds<br />
½ teaspoon; yours might deliver<br />
more or less. Then you’ll never<br />
have to grind and measure again,<br />
you’ll just do 10 grinds and know<br />
you have the ½, or ¼-teaspoon<br />
you need.<br />
White Beer Dressing<br />
Makes 1¹⁄8 cups<br />
You can use any pale beer here, such as Stella Artois,<br />
Amstel, or Heineken Light but the Hoegaarden has a<br />
little sweetness that I like. The amount of pepper might<br />
seem scary but as long as you use freshly ground pepper<br />
on a coarse grind, the balance is perfect. Do not use<br />
pre-ground or it will be much too strong and lack the<br />
instant flavor that only comes from your peppermill.<br />
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar<br />
1 teaspoon minced garlic<br />
¼ cup white beer, such as Hoegaarden<br />
2 teaspoons salt<br />
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper<br />
½ cup heavy cream<br />
¼ cup homemade mayonnaise (recipe right)<br />
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together vinegar, garlic, beer,<br />
salt, and pepper. Whisk in cream and mayonnaise. This<br />
will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.<br />
Homemade Mayonnaise<br />
Makes 1¾ cups<br />
This is the best mayonnaise—and great to have<br />
on hand for sandwiches or dips.<br />
1 extra large egg<br />
1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar<br />
1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard<br />
½ teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
1 large clove garlic, peeled<br />
1½ cups vegetable oil<br />
1. Combine all ingredients except oil in bowl of a<br />
<strong>food</strong> processor and blend 30 seconds.<br />
2. Slowly add oil through feed tube while processing.<br />
Mayonnaise should be very thick.<br />
3. Transfer to a small sealed container and refrigerate<br />
up to 1 week.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 33
34 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />
chocolate filling and<br />
Chocolate Tart
Chocolate Tart<br />
Makes 8 serVings<br />
This is a great recipe for those among us who have pastry<br />
phobia or pastry impatience (I have yeast phobia, so I understand).<br />
The end result is so ridiculously delicious that you will<br />
feel vindicated in the effort you have made. If all the steps<br />
are making your eyes roll, skip the pastry and just make the<br />
filling (see recipe right).<br />
tart shell<br />
1¼ cups heckers or king arthur all-purpose flour<br />
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and<br />
cut into ½-inch pieces<br />
¾ teaspoon kosher salt<br />
¼ cup iced water<br />
1. Place flour, butter, and salt in bowl of a <strong>food</strong> processor and<br />
pulse 10 times. Pour in water and pulse 8 times.<br />
2. Let damp crumbs sit 5 minutes, tip into a sealable plastic<br />
bag, and gently but firmly form a ¾-inch-thick disk. Refrigerate<br />
dough at least 2 hours or overnight.<br />
3. Remove dough from refrigerator and leave at room temperature<br />
15 minutes, until just pliable but still cool. Roll out to<br />
a 12-inch circle and, making sure it’s centered, drape over a<br />
9½-inch tart pan with removable base.<br />
4. Lift up pastry and ease it down into corner of pan, pushing<br />
it in with a knuckle then pressing in gently but firmly with your<br />
thumb against the vertical side. This will give you a strong<br />
pastry wall to hold the filling.<br />
5. Run a rolling pin over top of pan to cut off excess pastry. Dock<br />
the base several times with a fork. Place shell, uncovered, in<br />
freezer 30 minutes.<br />
6. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 425°F.<br />
Remove shell from freezer and line with aluminum foil, allowing<br />
3 extra inches on each side. Tuck foil into corners well and<br />
fill ½ inch deep with pie weights or dried beans.<br />
7. Bake 20 minutes, remove foil, and bake 10 minutes uncovered,<br />
until there are no uncooked patches and pastry is golden<br />
brown. When removing from oven, wait 10 seconds to let foil<br />
cool. You can then pick it up by the four corners with your bare<br />
hands; just avoid the beans as they will be hot.<br />
8. Shell can be baked a day ahead, left in pan to cool, and filled<br />
and baked the next day. Just wrap with plastic wrap when shell<br />
is totally cold and store unrefrigerated.<br />
9. For the tart filling: Reduce the oven heat to 350°F. Pour the<br />
filling into the shell and bake for 10 minutes if the shell is warm<br />
and 12 minutes if the shell is cool. Remove the tart from the<br />
oven (the center will still be jiggly), and allow to cool without<br />
refrigerating. Serve warm or at room temperature.<br />
Chocolate Tart Filling<br />
Makes 6 serVings in cocotte dishes<br />
Makes enough filling for 2 tarts<br />
for tart: Just use half and freeZe the Balance; it freeZes<br />
Perfectly for at least 2 Months.<br />
This is simplicity at its finest and creates a sensation! I used to<br />
make pastry, let it rest, roll it out, freeze it, fill it with beans,<br />
bake blind, and eventually pour in this fantastic, rich, chocolaty<br />
filling before bake the whole thing. Sometimes faux dieters<br />
would scrape the filling off, eat the chocolate part, and leave<br />
the hours-of-effort shell. Eventually I decided to make double<br />
the filling and just bake it in cocotte dishes like a chocolate<br />
pudding.<br />
16 tablespoons (2 sticks), unsalted butter cut<br />
into tablespoon slices<br />
1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels<br />
1 cup bittersweet chocolate morsels<br />
2 tablespoons Medaglia d’oro espresso powder<br />
4 extra large eggs<br />
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar<br />
¼ cup whiskey, bourbon, or Myers’s dark rum<br />
2 tablespoons flour<br />
2 tablespoons droste dutch process<br />
or ghirardelli cocoa<br />
1½ teaspoons kosher salt<br />
1. Butter 6, ½-cup, ovenproof cocotte dishes. Position a rack<br />
in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F.<br />
2. Put butter, chocolate, and espresso powder in a medium<br />
saucepan over low heat and stir until just melted.<br />
3. In a deep, medium bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, and<br />
alcohol very well. Sift in flour, cocoa, and salt, and gently whisk<br />
together. Add chocolate mixture and stir to incorporate.<br />
4. Using a ¹⁄2 cup measuring cup, carefully fill each cocotte dish.<br />
Bake 15 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving warm with<br />
whipped heavy cream or ice cream. ■<br />
NUTRITION<br />
PASTA W. SPICY SAUSAGE & VODKA :<br />
Per serVing: calories 650 (450 from<br />
fat); fat 50g (sat. 23g); chol 129mg;<br />
sodiuM 1575mg; carB 20g; fiBer 3g;<br />
Protein 25g<br />
CHICKEN BREAST W.<br />
CALVADOS & APPLES:<br />
Per serVing: calories 861 (531 from<br />
fat); fat 60g (sat. 36g); chol 280mg;<br />
sodiuM 571mg; carB 39g; fiBer 2g;<br />
Protein 41g<br />
WHITE BEER DRESSING:<br />
Per serVing: calories 88 (79 from<br />
fat); fat 9g (sat. 3g); chol 17mg;<br />
sodiuM 564mg;carB 1g; fiBer 0g;<br />
Protein 0g<br />
CHOCOLATE TART:<br />
Per serVing: calories 473 (285 from<br />
fat); fat 32g (sat. 20g); chol 114mg;<br />
sodiuM 356mg; carB 42g; fiBer 3g;<br />
Protein 6g<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 35
istro<br />
brunch<br />
Add a French accent to your leisurely<br />
and satisfying midday meal—c’est magnifique!<br />
by jason ross<br />
Photography Terry Brennan<br />
Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />
36 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Clafouti with Crème Fraîche<br />
Whipped Cream (recipe page 43) and<br />
Café Da (recipe page 38)<br />
Brunch is a conscious decision to dine during what would otherwise<br />
be the most productive parts of the day. It is leisurely, slow, and<br />
decadent. If there’s a meal when diners ignore their diets and eat to<br />
their hearts’ desire, it’s brunch. Maybe that’s why we love it so much<br />
and why restaurants offering a good brunch have lines out the door.<br />
French bistro dishes fit the image of a leisurely, satisfying brunch:<br />
a change from hash browns to Pommes Anna, from pancakes to Berry<br />
Clafouti, from eggs and toast to Croque Madame, from vegetables<br />
sides to Poached Leeks, and from coffee and cream to icy Café Da.<br />
Isn’t that a little indulgent, you might ask? Yes. Yes it is.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 37
Café Da<br />
Makes 1 serving<br />
On the streets of Saigon, men<br />
hide from the heat of the day<br />
in hammocks and sip iced milk<br />
coffee, an enduring legacy of the<br />
coffee-drinking French colonizers.<br />
To make a true Vietnamese<br />
ca phe sua da, you need a special<br />
steel filter that slowly drips thick<br />
coffee through a compressed<br />
space. This version uses espresso<br />
sweetened with condensed milk<br />
and a full glass of ice to reproduce<br />
the feeling of luxuriously sipping<br />
coffee, hiding from the world if<br />
for only a few minutes.<br />
nearly 2 cups ice<br />
¼ cup sweetened<br />
condensed milk,<br />
or to taste<br />
1 shot hot espresso<br />
1. Fill 1 tall glass with ice. Pour<br />
milk into a cup or glass large<br />
enough to hold milk and espresso.<br />
Add more milk for a lighter,<br />
sweeter drink and less for darker<br />
with bitter hints.<br />
2. Add enough hot water to<br />
espresso to total just more than<br />
½ cup. Pour over milk and stir until<br />
fully incorporated. Pour over ice<br />
and stir to chill before serving.<br />
Poached Leeks with Mustard Vinaigrette<br />
Makes 6 servings<br />
This salad could work as a satisfying light meal with a bit of crusty baguette. As part<br />
of the brunch, the cutting acidity of the vinaigrette helps even out an otherwise rich<br />
midday meal.<br />
Cook the leeks well, until they are fully tender and offer no resistance to the tip of<br />
a knife. Leeks can feel soft when warm, only to firm up and feel crunchy and raw as<br />
they cool and the starches solidify. While the leeks will keep up to a week refrigerated<br />
with some of the poaching liquid, they are best served within a day. After that,<br />
some of the flavor and color diminish over time. You may find you have to remove<br />
the outermost layer if it becomes tough and dry. Before serving, allow the leeks to<br />
come to room temperature.<br />
3 medium leeks<br />
2 tablespoons salt<br />
1 tablespoon wine vinegar<br />
½ teaspoon black peppercorns<br />
2 bay leaves<br />
1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />
3 cups mache or other young salad greens<br />
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and roughly chopped<br />
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano<br />
Vinaigrette<br />
½ clove garlic, minced<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
2 tablespoons minced shallots<br />
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar<br />
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard<br />
½ cup vegetable oil<br />
¼ cup finely minced parsley<br />
freshly ground pepper to taste<br />
1. To prepare leeks, cut off dark green leaves. Make an incision at cut end and split<br />
down about 2 inches from top but not all the way to root. Rinse well to remove any dirt<br />
embedded in the layers. Trim root end of any dirt or dangling strands, but leave enough<br />
root intact to hold together leek as it cooks.<br />
2. In a pot large enough to hold leeks, combine salt, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaves,<br />
and lemon juice with 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Add leeks, and reduce heat to a<br />
simmer. Add extra water if needed to cover the leeks, along with an extra pinch of salt<br />
and dash of vinegar. The poaching liquid should taste piquant, salty, and acidic. Cook<br />
for roughly 30 minutes, until leeks are tender. Check for doneness by piercing thickest<br />
part of leek with a paring knife; it should offer no resistance and no longer feel fibrous.<br />
Remove leeks to a bowl to cool to room temperature.<br />
3. For the vinaigrette: In a deep bowl, whisk together garlic, salt, shallots, vinegar, and<br />
mustard. Drizzle oil in slowly while whisking to create a smooth, thickened sauce. If<br />
vinaigrette is still acidic, add a few drops water and whisk in more oil until it tastes<br />
balanced. Add parsley as well as black pepper and salt to taste. Vinaigrette will keep,<br />
refrigerated, up to 1 week but may take on strong flavors from garlic.<br />
4. To serve, toss greens with vinaigrette and place in a neat mound in center of six plates.<br />
Slice leeks lengthwise and coat with some vinaigrette. Serve ½ leek per plate. Finish<br />
salads with egg, Pecorino Romano, and some fresh cracked black pepper, drizzling on<br />
more vinaigrette if desired.<br />
38 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Poached Leeks with<br />
Mustard Vinaigrette<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 39
Croque Madame<br />
40 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Croque Madame<br />
Makes 6 servings<br />
Imagine the perfect, over-the-top grilled cheese<br />
sandwich and you have the Croque Madame.<br />
Use béchamel to hold the sandwich together<br />
along with the best alpine-style cheese you can<br />
find. Add a few slices of ham. And top it all off<br />
with a golden fried egg for the ultimate brunch<br />
indulgence.<br />
Béchamel<br />
4 tablespoons butter<br />
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour<br />
4 cups whole milk<br />
small pinch nutmeg<br />
salt and freshly ground white pepper<br />
to taste<br />
12 slices white bread<br />
1¼ to 1½ pounds grated Gruyère or<br />
other melting cheese<br />
6 slices ham large enough to cover bread<br />
butter<br />
6 eggs<br />
1. For the béchamel: Melt butter in a medium,<br />
heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add flour and whisk<br />
1 to 2 minutes, until smooth but not browned.<br />
Slowly whisk in milk.<br />
2. Cook 15 to 30 minutes, stirring with a wooden<br />
spoon, until sauce is thickened and coats a spoon<br />
well, taking care not to let it scorch.<br />
3. Add nutmeg as well as salt and freshly ground<br />
white pepper to taste. Cool and refrigerate up<br />
to 1 week.<br />
4. Preheat oven to 425°F. In warming oven, lightly<br />
toast bread to dry out without browning, flipping<br />
to dry both sides. Let cool to room temperature.<br />
5. Spread béchamel onto both sides of bread.<br />
Sprinkle roughly ¹⁄3 of cheese on top. Place ham<br />
on top and sprinkle on another ¹⁄3 of cheese. Top<br />
with remaining bread. Coat top of sandwich<br />
with béchamel again. Sprinkle on last of cheese.<br />
Sandwiches can be prepared a day in advance<br />
and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature<br />
before cooking.<br />
6. Transfer to a tray lined with parchment or wax<br />
paper and bake 20 to 30 minutes, until cheese<br />
and béchamel are fully melted, hot, and dark<br />
golden brown.<br />
7. When nearly done, heat a sauté pan with butter<br />
and cook 6 sunny-side-up eggs seasoned with<br />
salt and black pepper. Top finished sandwiches<br />
with eggs. Serve with a fork and steak knife as<br />
this hot sandwich is not easy to handle.<br />
Pommes Anna<br />
Makes 6 servings<br />
Think of these as French hash browns. In typical French fashion,<br />
Pommes Anna carry a heavy dose of butter. To lighten the flavor and<br />
reduce the need for an after-brunch nap, this recipe employs olive oil.<br />
¹⁄3 cup olive oil<br />
3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
1 tablespoon minced parsley<br />
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut a piece of parchment or wax paper to line<br />
bottom of a medium, ovenproof sauté pan. Brush both sides of paper<br />
with oil and press into pan.<br />
2. Using a mandolin, <strong>food</strong> processor with slicer attachment, or knife,<br />
cut potatoes into ¹⁄8-inch slices. It is important to assemble the Pommes<br />
Anna quickly after the potatoes are cut or they will turn brown. Don’t<br />
soak them as the potato starch will rinse off and the slices won’t stick<br />
together to form a cake.<br />
3. Starting in center of pan, arrange potatoes in an overlapping circle.<br />
Season with salt and pepper, and brush with oil. Repeat to create 5 to<br />
6 layers, seasoning and oiling each layer, for a nearly full pan. Using the heel<br />
of your hand, push potatoes firmly into pan to help them stick together.<br />
4. Cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until oil starts to sizzle<br />
and potatoes begin to brown. Transfer to oven and bake 40 minutes.<br />
Potatoes should be tender and browned, and should yield easily to a<br />
toothpick or thin knife.<br />
5. Using a spatula to hold potatoes in place, tip pan to carefully drain<br />
any excess fat into a bowl. Cover pan with a plate. Hold pan with a<br />
heatproof glove or folded towel in one hand and plate in the other. Invert<br />
potatoes onto plate. Serve cut into wedges with cracked pepper and<br />
minced parsley.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 41
Clafouti with Crème fraîChe<br />
whipped Cream<br />
NUTRITION<br />
CAFÉ DA:<br />
per serving: Calories 246<br />
(59 from fat); fat 7g (sat. 4g);<br />
Chol 26mg; sodium 118mg;<br />
CarB 42g; fiBer 0g;<br />
protein 6g<br />
POACHED LEEKS W.<br />
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE:<br />
per serving: Calories 236<br />
(191 from fat); fat 22g (sat.<br />
4g); Chol 67mg; sodium<br />
771mg; CarB 7g; fiBer 1g;<br />
protein 5g<br />
CROQUE MADAME:<br />
per serving: Calories 863<br />
(490 from fat); fat 55g (sat.<br />
30g); Chol 350mg; sodium<br />
1303mg; CarB 38g; fiBer 2g;<br />
protein 51g<br />
POMMES ANNA:<br />
per serving: Calories 276<br />
(107 from fat); fat 12g (sat.<br />
2g); Chol 0mg; sodium<br />
19mg; CarB 39g; fiBer 4g;<br />
protein 5g<br />
CLAFOUTI WITH CRÈME<br />
FRAÎCHE WHIPPED CREAM:<br />
per serving: Calories 372<br />
(246 from fat); fat 28g (sat.<br />
15g); Chol 129mg; sodium<br />
75mg; CarB 26g; fiBer 3g;<br />
protein 6g<br />
42 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Clafouti with Crème Fraîche<br />
Whipped Cream<br />
Makes 8 servings<br />
Clafouti straddles the line between thick pancake and sweet omelet. It can<br />
be dressed up or down depending on presentation. Clafouti is cooked and<br />
served in the same vessel. If you have a casserole pan you love or a great<br />
cast-iron pan, this is the time to use it. In this recipe, blackberries replace<br />
the more traditional cherries.<br />
10 ounces blackberries<br />
2 tablespoons sugar, divided<br />
1 to 2 tablespoons butter<br />
powdered sugar<br />
Custard<br />
1½ cups heavy cream<br />
1 tablespoon brandy or Grand Marnier<br />
½ teaspoon almond extract<br />
½ cup all-purpose flour<br />
½ cup almond flour<br />
¼ cup sugar<br />
pinch salt<br />
2 eggs<br />
powdered sugar, for serving<br />
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter an attractive, medium, oven-safe pan and<br />
sprinkle in 1 tablespoon sugar to coat. This will help the clafouti rise, like a<br />
soufflé, and give its edges nice caramel flavor.<br />
2. Toss blackberries with 1 tablespoon sugar to coat and set aside. Blackberries<br />
should soften and release some liquid.<br />
3. For the custard: In a bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine cream, brandy,<br />
and almond extract. In a separate bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour,<br />
almond flour, sugar, and salt.<br />
4. In a blender, processor, or bowl, whisk together eggs, wet ingredients,<br />
and dry ingredients until smooth.<br />
5. Place blackberries in pan, filling evenly. Pour over batter. Bake 45 minutes,<br />
rotating pan halfway through cooking time. Cook until a toothpick inserted into<br />
thickest section comes out clean and batter seems solid. The clafouti will puff<br />
up as it cooks, like a soufflé, then settle into a thick pancake when it cools.<br />
6. Serve the same day warm or at room temperature, but not hot out of<br />
the oven, with a dusting of powdered sugar and spoonful of Crème Fraîche<br />
Whipped Cream.<br />
Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream<br />
Makes 1½ to 2 cups<br />
¾ cup heavy cream<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
½ teaspoon vanilla<br />
¼ cup crème fraîche<br />
1. In a bowl or mixer, whip cream with sugar and vanilla until thick and soft<br />
peaks form when pulled from whisk. Spoon in crème fraîche and mix together.<br />
The extra fat from the crème fraîche helps stabilize the whipped cream<br />
and it will keep, refrigerated, up to 3 days. <br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 43
Fragrant Chicken<br />
Coconut Curry with<br />
Green Beans and<br />
Sweet Potatoes<br />
(recipe page 46)<br />
Photography Terry Brennan<br />
Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />
44 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
terrific<br />
turmeric<br />
Want to know the new star in the spice universe?<br />
It’s turmeric, a knotty rhizome (or underground stem), cousin<br />
to ginger, and native to India, where it grows wild in the forests<br />
and other parts of Southeast Asia. Turmeric plays a commanding<br />
role in Indian cuisine and has been prescribed by Ayurvedic doctors<br />
for thousands of years for a host of maladies, from stomach<br />
and liver ailments to the aches and pains of rheumatism and<br />
arthritis. Ground turmeric is also used in facemasks that cleanse<br />
and disinfect without stripping the skin’s natural oils.<br />
Western researchers first recognized the spice’s value a number<br />
of years ago for its renowned anti-inflammatory and antioxidant<br />
properties, but recently it has come to the attention of<br />
cancer researchers. The active ingredient, curcumin, which also<br />
provides the spice’s yellow color, may have powerful anti-cancer<br />
properties. In a recent study, curcumin also held promise in<br />
reducing the effects of aging in fruit flies, which have a genetic<br />
profile similar to that of humans.<br />
Cooks mainly know it as the spice in curry that gives it its<br />
golden color, but as you will see, turmeric is a remarkably versatile<br />
seasoning that can be added to fruit smoothies and fragrant<br />
desserts. Authorities suggest adding a little ground black pepper<br />
to increase its health-giving benefits.<br />
by Nina Simonds<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 45
Fragrant Chicken Coconut Curry with<br />
Green Beans and Sweet Potatoes<br />
Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />
This chicken curry tastes quite different and subtler than a typical<br />
curry since the spices are freshly ground and no curry powder is used.<br />
I serve it with steamed rice and a simple yogurt raita.<br />
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
4 chicken legs, separated into thighs and drumsticks, rinsed,<br />
and dried with paper towels<br />
2 medium sweet potatoes<br />
3 medium onions, peeled and julienned<br />
2 tablespoons rice wine or sake<br />
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, seeded and diced with juice<br />
1 13.5-ounce can light unsweetened coconut milk<br />
1½ tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar<br />
2½ tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste<br />
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste<br />
4 cups green beans, rinsed, drained, and if long, halved<br />
diagonally along the length<br />
Seasonings<br />
2 small jalapeños, trimmed and seeded<br />
3 stalks lemongrass, ends trimmed to tender heart, tough<br />
outer stalks removed, and cut into chunks, or grated peel<br />
of 1 lemon<br />
8 cloves garlic<br />
1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped<br />
1 tablespoon ground cumin<br />
1 tablespoon ground coriander<br />
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric<br />
1. Heat a Dutch oven or large casserole with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil<br />
over medium-high heat until very hot. Arrange chicken skin side down<br />
and fry for 5-6 minutes, until golden brown. Using tongs, turn the pieces<br />
over and sear another 5-6 minutes until golden brown. Drain on a paper<br />
towel. Cover to prevent oil splatter and cook in batches if necessary.<br />
2. For the seasonings: While chicken is cooking, drop ingredients in<br />
descending order down the feed tube of a running <strong>food</strong> processor or<br />
blender. Pulse, scraping down sides of bowl with a spatula, to create a<br />
rough but even mixture. If lemongrass remains in large pieces, carefully<br />
scrape seasonings onto a cutting board and chop by hand.<br />
3. Peel and cut the sweet potatoes in half lengthwise, then cut each half<br />
lengthwise again. Cut each strip along the diagonal into 1½ inch pieces.<br />
4. Add remaining oil to pan and heat until very hot. Add seasonings and<br />
stir-fry over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon,<br />
3 to 4 minutes, until very fragrant.<br />
5. Add onion and stir. Add rice wine, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />
4 minutes, until onion is soft and translucent. Add tomatoes,<br />
coconut milk, and sugar, and cook, partially covered, 5 minutes.<br />
6. Add chicken, soy sauce, and lemon juice, stir, and cover. Cook 6 to<br />
7 minutes then add sweet potatoes. Cook another 25 minutes, until<br />
a knife pierced through the center of the chicken renders clear juice.<br />
Add green beans, cover, and cook 7 to 8 minutes, until tender. Season<br />
to taste and serve with steamed jasmine or basmati rice.<br />
Grilled Hanoi Turmeric Fish<br />
Makes 4 servings<br />
Cha Ca La Vong is a famous Vietnamese specialty<br />
otherwise known as Hanoi Turmeric Fish with<br />
Dill. I first tasted it in Hanoi in the early 1970s, and<br />
like many others, I instantly became a fan. Traditionally<br />
a catfish is brought to the table after it has<br />
been marinated in turmeric and other spices and<br />
cooked on a charcoal brazier where it is smothered<br />
with fresh dill and served with a classic nu ’ o ´ ’ c cham ´ ˆ<br />
sauce, a Vietnamese vinaigrette. This version features<br />
halibut and fresh dill with a spicy vinaigrette.<br />
Marinade<br />
1 teaspoon sugar<br />
2½ teaspoons turmeric<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />
4 cloves garlic, chopped<br />
1 shallot, finely chopped<br />
Vietnamese Dressing<br />
¹⁄3 cup fish sauce, or to taste<br />
²⁄3 cup lime or lemon juice<br />
¹⁄3 cup sugar<br />
1½ tablespoons minced garlic<br />
1 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper flakes<br />
3 tablespoons water<br />
1½ pounds halibut fillet, about ¾ to 1 inch<br />
thick, sectioned and skinned<br />
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
2 cups fresh dill, coarsely chopped<br />
2 tablespoons roasted salted peanuts,<br />
chopped (optional)<br />
1. For the marinade: In small bowl, whisk together<br />
all ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic<br />
bag, add fish, and turn bag to coat fish. Refrigerate<br />
20 minutes or longer.<br />
2. For the dressing: In medium bowl, whisk together<br />
all ingredients 2 to 3 minutes, until sugar dissolves.<br />
Set aside.<br />
3. Prepare a medium-hot fire for grilling or preheat a<br />
gas grill and arrange a rack 3 to 4 inches from heat.<br />
Brush grill with 1 tablespoon oil, arrange fish on grill,<br />
and cook, covered, 5 to 6 minutes per side, depending<br />
on thickness. To check for doneness, pierce the<br />
flesh with a sharp knife; it should be opaque all the<br />
way through. Carefully slide onto a platter.<br />
4. Heat a large skillet until hot. Brush with remaining<br />
oil over moderately high heat until very hot. Carefully<br />
place fish in pan and sprinkle with dill.<br />
5. Pour over dressing and cover 1 minute to seal in<br />
juices and wilt dill. Sprinkle with peanuts. Place on<br />
a trivet in center of table and serve from pan with a<br />
whole grain and a vegetable.<br />
46 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Grilled Hanoi<br />
Turmeric Fish<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 47
Spicy Tandoori<br />
Tofu Roll-Ups<br />
48 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
top PHOTO © Luis Santos - Fotolia.com<br />
Spicy Tandoori Tofu Roll-Ups<br />
Makes 4 servings<br />
I like to make my own tandoori marinade with a blend<br />
of spices and yogurt, which tenderizes meat and sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />
This recipe uses tofu, which absorbs the flavors beautifully.<br />
You can refrigerate and refreeze the marinade in its<br />
sealable plastic bag and use it again for chicken or sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />
2 pounds very firm tofu<br />
2 cups parsley leaves, stems removed<br />
1 cup shredded carrots<br />
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />
8 flour tortillas<br />
Tandoori Marinade<br />
1 cup plain Greek yogurt<br />
1½ tablespoons minced ginger<br />
1½ tablespoons minced garlic<br />
1¼ teaspoons dried oregano<br />
¾ teaspoon dried chili flakes<br />
1¼ teaspoons ground cumin<br />
1 teaspoon ground turmeric<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper<br />
Cilantro-Yogurt Dressing<br />
1½ cups plain Greek yogurt<br />
1 teaspoon ground cumin<br />
4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (optional)<br />
1. Halve tofu and wrap in paper towels. Place a heavy pot<br />
on top and drain, changing towels as necessary.<br />
2. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, mix together all<br />
ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic bag and add<br />
tofu to coat. Seal in bag and refrigerate 20 minutes or<br />
longer.<br />
3. For the dressing: Mix together all ingredients and pour<br />
into a serving bowl.<br />
4. Rinse and drain parsley and carrots, and place in a bowl.<br />
5. Heat a large frying pan with oil until very hot. Drain tofu,<br />
arrange in pan, and fry over moderately high heat 4 to<br />
5 minutes, until golden brown. Carefully flip and fry other<br />
side until golden, remove, and drain on paper towels. Let<br />
cool slightly and cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange on<br />
a serving platter.<br />
6. While tofu is cooking, fold tortillas in half or quarters,<br />
wrap in a damp cloth napkin or dishtowel, and steam<br />
1½ minutes in microwave at full power. Arrange on table<br />
with tofu, dressing, and parsley-carrot salad. Let each<br />
person spoon some dressing onto a tortilla, add tofu, and<br />
sprinkle some salad on top before rolling up.<br />
Turmeric’s Health Benefits<br />
Turmeric is a beloved Indian spice that is synonymous<br />
with health and flavor. It is not only credited with being<br />
a powerful antioxidant but is also celebrated for its<br />
anti-inflammatory properties and has been used in<br />
herbal remedies by Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian<br />
practitioners for centuries.<br />
“Curcumin is a compound within the volatile oil<br />
that is most active when the root is still young,” says<br />
spice authority Tom Erd, who with his wife, Patty,<br />
co-founded The Spice House, a spice market with several<br />
stores in the Chicago area. “The color and most of<br />
the medicine is a major phenol, [an aromatic organic<br />
compound] found in the rhizome or root of the plant.<br />
The spice as we generally know it is made when the<br />
fresh roots are first boiled and then dried. The roots<br />
are then ground into a deep orange-yellow powder.<br />
“We recommend that people keep turmeric in an<br />
airtight container away from light and heat,” adds Erd.<br />
“Since the oil is volatile, it should only be kept one<br />
to one and a half years, after which it will become<br />
slightly bitter.”<br />
The average amount of curcumin in turmeric is about<br />
3.4 percent. It can reach 5.5 percent and higher in<br />
certain regions and during certain crop years. Curcumin<br />
from the Alleppey region in Kerala, India’s southern<br />
area that is considered the spice capital of the world,<br />
usually produces the highest oil. In the spice trade,<br />
these rhizomes are known as “Alleppey Fingers.”<br />
Recent research has led scientists to believe that<br />
turmeric powder holds great promise. Researchers at<br />
the University of Texas note that curcumin inhibits the<br />
growth of melanoma and may also impede the spread<br />
of breast cancer to the lungs. Studies have also shown<br />
that curcumin may help delay liver damage that can<br />
eventually lead to cirrhosis. For treating osteoarthritis,<br />
the National Institutes of Health (NIH) recommends<br />
500 mg. daily of a specific turmeric extract. For soothing<br />
an upset stomach, the NIH recommends 500 mg.<br />
of turmeric four times daily. All the more reason to add<br />
turmeric to your essential spice pantry.<br />
Keeping it Fresh<br />
If you think you’ve had that jar of dried ground turmeric<br />
in your cupboard a long time, it might be a good<br />
idea to get a fresh one—the spice’s smell and flavor<br />
may become slightly bitter over time. You can also try<br />
your own freshly ground turmeric, which has a multidimensional<br />
aroma with elements of slight sweetness<br />
(almost similar to nutmeg) and full, rich savory qualities<br />
somewhere between ground coriander and cumin, but<br />
more subtle. (The turmeric root, similar to ginger root,<br />
may not be as easily available as the dried ground.)<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 49
easy CoConut riCe Pudding<br />
and glaZed aPPle sliCes<br />
NUTRITION<br />
GRILLED HANOI TURMERIC<br />
FISH:<br />
Per serving: Calories<br />
274 (78 from fat); Fat 9g (sat.<br />
1g); Chol 65mg; sodiuM<br />
2109mg; CarB 23g; FiBer 1g;<br />
Protein 26g<br />
CHICKEN COCONUT CURRY:<br />
Per serving: Calories 500<br />
(200 from fat); Fat 22g (sat.<br />
7g); Chol 92mg; sodiuM<br />
821mg; CarB 41g; FiBer 7g;<br />
Protein 38g<br />
SPICY TANDOORI TOFU<br />
ROLL-UPS:<br />
Per serving: Calories 672<br />
(251 from fat); Fat 29g (sat.<br />
5g); Chol 9mg; sodiuM<br />
1510mg; CarB 65g; FiBer 5g;<br />
Protein 43g<br />
COCONUT RICE PUDDING<br />
W. GLAZED APPLE SLICES:<br />
Per serving: Calories 337<br />
(119 from fat); Fat 13g (sat.<br />
8g); Chol 24mg; sodiuM<br />
302mg; CarB 55g; FiBer 3g;<br />
Protein 3g<br />
MIXED FRUIT SMOOTHIE:<br />
Per serving: Calories<br />
256 (14 from fat); Fat 2g (sat.<br />
0g); Chol 0mg; sodiuM<br />
14mg; CarB 60g; FiBer 16g;<br />
Protein 3g<br />
50 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Easy Coconut Rice Pudding<br />
Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />
This intoxicatingly delicious yet easy-to-make pudding paired with<br />
the Glazed Apple Slices makes for a wonderfully satisfying dessert.<br />
1 cup cooked arborio rice<br />
1 15-ounce can unsweetened light coconut<br />
milk, stirred well<br />
½ cup half-and-half<br />
¼ cup sugar<br />
1 teaspoon turmeric<br />
¼ teaspoon salt<br />
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg<br />
1 teaspoon vanilla extract<br />
1. In a heavy saucepan, bring rice, coconut milk, half-and-half, sugar,<br />
turmeric, salt, and nutmeg to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook,<br />
uncovered, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened.<br />
2. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Pour into a serving bowl or<br />
individual ramekins and serve with Glazed Apple Slices.<br />
Mixed Fruit Smoothie<br />
Makes 1 to 2 servings<br />
My friend, who is the chief nutritionist at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute,<br />
adds turmeric to her morning smoothies because she believes<br />
it helps prevent cancer and other diseases. She inspired me to create<br />
this delicious and easy drink, which can be made for breakfast or a<br />
snack. You also can add 2 teaspoons ground flaxseed for some extra<br />
omega-3 essential fatty acids, fiber, and plant estrogen and antioxidants.<br />
Glazed Apple Slices<br />
Makes 4 servings<br />
This is a simple but sumptuous topping for the Easy<br />
Coconut Rice Pudding, but it is delicious on its<br />
own with a dollop of whipping cream or some ice<br />
cream to make it even more voluptuous.<br />
3 golden delicious apples<br />
1 halved lemon<br />
3 tablespoons light brown sugar<br />
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice<br />
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />
¼ teaspoon salt<br />
2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
1. Peel, core, and cut apples into ½-inch-thick slices.<br />
Rub with lemon and squeeze over some lemon<br />
juice to prevent browning. In a small bowl, combine<br />
sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, and salt with<br />
¼ cup water.<br />
2. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat butter over moderately<br />
high heat until foam subsides. Add apples and<br />
fry until golden on 1 side. Carefully flip and cook 4<br />
to 5 minutes, until tender.<br />
3. Add sauce and cook, uncovered, 3–5 minutes<br />
until reduced to a glaze. Remove and serve over<br />
Easy Coconut Rice Pudding.<br />
1½ cups frozen berries<br />
1 cup whole-fat yogurt<br />
1½ tablespoons maple syrup<br />
1 teaspoon turmeric<br />
1 teaspoon vanilla extract<br />
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper<br />
½ cup coarsely chopped ice<br />
(optional)<br />
1. In a blender or <strong>food</strong> processor<br />
fitted with a steel blade, purée<br />
berries until smooth. Add<br />
yogurt, syrup, turmeric,<br />
vanilla, and pepper, and<br />
pulse until smooth.<br />
Add chopped ice and<br />
drink. ■<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 51
52 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
By Tara Q. Thomas<br />
Daniel Boulud<br />
from farm to restaurant<br />
Imagine never having set foot in a grocery store until age 14. Imagine never having<br />
set foot in a restaurant, either. And now imagine that person is roundly acclaimed as<br />
one of the greatest chefs cooking in the United States today.<br />
That arc describes the life of Daniel Boulud,<br />
the man behind Daniel, one of only seven<br />
restaurants in New York to earn Michelin’s<br />
three-star rating; the restaurant also garnered<br />
three stars from The New York Times<br />
this past summer, the restaurant’s twentieth<br />
year. It’s a remarkable rise for a kid who grew<br />
up slopping pigs and tending vegetables on a<br />
farm outside of Lyon, France—and Daniel is<br />
only one of many restaurants Boulud runs.<br />
There are seven in New York, some of which<br />
have spawned siblings in places as far afield<br />
as Florida, Mont<strong>real</strong>, Toronto, London, and<br />
Singapore.<br />
Boulud also has a television show of his own,<br />
After Hours with Daniel, in which he hangs out<br />
with chef friends after the guests have gone<br />
home and they can cook for themselves. And<br />
he’s penned a small library of books. Yet for<br />
all the activity, Daniel remains the focal point<br />
of his efforts, a centerpiece now captured<br />
in Boulud’s newest book, Daniel: My French<br />
Cuisine.<br />
“My other books—books like Braise, Café<br />
Boulud, Cocktails—were books in which the<br />
inspiration was to make the <strong>food</strong> accessible,”<br />
he explains when I catch him just before the<br />
lunch rush one chilly morning in New York<br />
City. “Daniel is about the restaurant, about me<br />
and my team,” he says, adding with a laugh, “I<br />
finally reveal my full identity.”<br />
He’s joking, but there’s truth to it, as creating<br />
Daniel, the restaurant, has been his life’s<br />
work. “When I opened Daniel the first time, I<br />
didn’t have the other restaurants, and I loved<br />
to cook everything—rustic bistro dishes,<br />
haute cuisine—from the most refined to the<br />
most peasant dishes,” Boulud tells me. When<br />
he moved the restaurant into its current space<br />
on the corner of 65th Street and Park Avenue,<br />
he did it with the intention of making it “une<br />
maison pour la vie,” he says, a home for life. He<br />
went so far as to move in upstairs, installing<br />
a window with a view into the kitchen (“the<br />
skybox,” as it’s known downstairs), so he could<br />
keep tabs on the action even when he was “off.”<br />
In the restaurant, he began honing, spinning<br />
bistro dishes off to more casual restaurants<br />
such as Bar Boulud and DBGB so he could<br />
tighten the focus at Daniel. “Daniel today is<br />
richness and sophistication,” he says.<br />
That richness and sophistication is laid<br />
out in glorious detail in Daniel, the book. It’s<br />
the sort of volume that chefs will pour over,<br />
studying the recipes for ideas and techniques<br />
to inspire and improve their cooking. It’s eye<br />
candy for chef groupies, too, who will display<br />
it proudly on their coffee tables. It may, in fact,<br />
be the sort of book you’ll take one look at and<br />
think, “I’ll never make any of that; forget it.”<br />
But if you like to think about <strong>food</strong>, and about<br />
how a dish comes to be, you’ll find this a fas-<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 53
cinating read, for it’s in this volume that he<br />
reveals the breadth of his inspirations and<br />
the essential heart of them.<br />
That isn’t to say the recipes are inaccessible—in<br />
fact, Boulud quickly points out that<br />
they’ve worked hard to explain every step<br />
very carefully, so that anyone with the time<br />
and gumption to make them will come out<br />
with a favorable result. But also, he adds, full<br />
commitment isn’t required. “It’s very easy<br />
to make just part of a recipe,” he says. “You<br />
could just make a garnish, or [borrow] the<br />
seasoning; in every case, you can take something<br />
useful away without having to recreate<br />
the entire recipe.”<br />
In fact, the most engrossing section of the<br />
book has no recipes. Part II, “Iconic Sessions,”<br />
is built around the recreation of twelve dishes<br />
he considers iconic in the French repertoire,<br />
dishes that hark back to the days of<br />
Antoine Câreme and Auguste Escoffier,<br />
18th-century chefs who were instrumental<br />
in defining what has come to be known as<br />
“classic French cuisine.” (Escoffier’s Le Guide<br />
Culinaire was one of the first books Boulud<br />
ever bought, from his earnings working as<br />
a cook at age 14; it remains an essential reference<br />
for serious chefs today.) “The idea<br />
was to bring back the idea of old-fashioned<br />
French cooking that nobody does anymore,”<br />
Boulud says. “I always enjoyed doing those<br />
dishes. It’s going back in time, to the formation<br />
of what inspires us today.”<br />
Creating the dishes was also an adventure<br />
for every cook involved, most especially Bill<br />
Buford, a writer and an ambitious cook who<br />
Boulud roped in to be a central player in<br />
their recreation. (“I wanted to have a bonding<br />
experience with him,” Boulud explains;<br />
“he’d just spent four years in Lyon immersed<br />
in French cooking; I wanted to show him<br />
the dishes no one else had.”) There were no<br />
recipes; an extensive team of Boulud’s chefs<br />
plus Buford worked off of written descriptions<br />
and illustrations in old texts, plus a<br />
lot of input from Boulud himself, the only<br />
one who’d had any experience with most of<br />
them. Each dish took days to create, the final<br />
results huge, architectural affairs meant to<br />
entertain royalty. At some level, no one in<br />
their right mind would go to these extremes<br />
anymore to impress; it’s not necessary or<br />
fashionable.<br />
And yet, Boulud insists, it’s important<br />
to know these recipes. “For instance, when<br />
I came to the U.S., everyone was talking<br />
about coulibiac,” he says, referring to a recipe<br />
involving a salmon baked in a crust. “This<br />
was puzzling for me; it had no <strong>real</strong> soulful<br />
meaning to me. But Craig Claiborne, Pierre<br />
Franey, these older great chefs were doing<br />
it.” When Craig Claiborne invited him over<br />
to make dinner—a sort of rite of passage for<br />
young French chefs arriving in New York—<br />
Boulud decided to make it for him.<br />
Boulud passed the test, yet the recipe has<br />
stuck with him; specifically the challenge of<br />
how to deal with the fact that either the fish<br />
is cooked perfectly but the pastry isn’t, or<br />
vice versa. When the team sets out to make<br />
it for “Iconic Sessions,” they toss out the<br />
first four attempts, and Boulud stresses<br />
about the recipe for days. He finally finds<br />
an opening for an improvement by scrutinizing<br />
Escoffier himself, whose description<br />
he’d been working off of, rather than<br />
the recipe. The newly refined recipe turns<br />
out to be fabulous … until Buford relates to<br />
Boulud some historical details of the dish his<br />
research has brought up, opening up a possibility<br />
of a further improvement. Is Boulud<br />
bitter? Maybe in that moment he was, but<br />
not now. “It’s fantastic, the combination of<br />
tradition and the academic, for the chef,” he<br />
says, sounding positively exhilarated by the<br />
challenge. “It makes you engaged in a way<br />
that’s much more meaningful.”<br />
For Buford, the experience also pointed<br />
out a more universally relatable truth: “If<br />
cooking knowledge is not carefully passed<br />
from one generation to the next, it doesn’t<br />
last,” he writes. In his calculation, it took less<br />
54 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014
Poulet à l’Estragon<br />
makes 6 to 8 servings<br />
than 60 years for coulibiac to drop out of the<br />
classic repertoire, and all the knowledge that<br />
went with its preparation disappeared.<br />
“To me it’s always important to keep reference<br />
with the past, to stay connected,” Boulud<br />
says. In this way, the recipes in the last section<br />
of the book—“Daniel at Home”—are just as<br />
important as the “icons,” as they are some of<br />
his formative <strong>food</strong>s, riffs on dishes he made<br />
as a young chef, and classics that speak clearly<br />
of place and tradition. A great recipe isn’t just<br />
an instruction for how to get dinner on the<br />
table; it’s a telescoping of history, tradition,<br />
and place onto the plate, immortalizing them<br />
in taste.<br />
With that, we present you Boulud’s Poulet<br />
à l’Estragon, a fancy name for a simple braised<br />
chicken that he learned at his very first job, as<br />
a farm boy-newly-turned cook at age 14. <br />
salt<br />
15 golf ball–size tomatoes<br />
1 tablespoon butter<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
2 (2- to 3-pound) farm-raised<br />
chickens, each cut into<br />
8 pieces<br />
freshly ground white pepper<br />
4 large shallots, sliced<br />
10 ounces pearl onions<br />
2 tablespoons tomato paste<br />
3 tablespoons flour<br />
½ cup tarragon vinegar<br />
2 cups chicken stock<br />
½ bunch tarragon<br />
Rice Pilaf<br />
1½ cups basmati rice<br />
2 tablespoons olive oil<br />
1 shallot, minced<br />
2 tablespoons butter<br />
2½ cups chicken stock<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
1 bay leaf<br />
2 sprigs thyme<br />
2 sprigs tarragon<br />
Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée<br />
salt<br />
1 pound yellow wax beans,<br />
trimmed<br />
2 tablespoons butter<br />
freshly ground white pepper<br />
½ bunch tarragon, leaves<br />
chopped<br />
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set a bowl of ice water on the<br />
side. Score an X on the bottoms of the tomatoes. Boil them for 5 seconds,<br />
or until the skins loosen on the bottoms. Strain and peel under cold running<br />
water; set aside.<br />
2. In a 5-quart braising pan over medium high heat, melt the butter with the oil.<br />
3. Season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to<br />
the pan skin side down and sear until golden brown on both sides, about<br />
10 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a platter, set aside, and strain all but<br />
1 tablespoon fat from the pan.<br />
4. Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallots and onions to the pan.<br />
Cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft. Add the tomato paste and flour<br />
and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the vinegar, bring to a simmer,<br />
then stir in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, making sure to scrape the<br />
bottom of the pan.<br />
5. Return the chicken to the pan with half of the tomatoes and the tarragon.<br />
Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.<br />
6. Add the remaining tomatoes, cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes,<br />
or until the chicken is cooked through.<br />
For the Rice Pilaf:<br />
1. Rinse the rice with cold water until it runs clear. Heat the olive oil in a<br />
medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until<br />
translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the butter, chicken stock, salt,<br />
bay leaf, thyme, and tarragon and bring to a simmer.<br />
2. Cover and cook undisturbed over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off<br />
the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the rice<br />
with a fork.<br />
photos and recipe from Daniel, my french cuisine<br />
by daniel boulud, photography by thomas<br />
schauer; Copyright © 2013; Published by Grand<br />
Central Life & Style<br />
For the Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée:<br />
1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and boil for<br />
4 minutes, or until tender.<br />
2. Strain, return the beans to the pan over medium-low heat, and toss with<br />
the butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the tarragon leaves just<br />
before serving.<br />
spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 55
pairings<br />
A Favored Fizz<br />
BY MARY SUBIALKA<br />
Prosecco is becoming more and more popular lately, and with<br />
good reason. This reasonably priced sparkling wine from Italy<br />
is, plain and simply, darn tasty. Fruitier than Champagne,<br />
straw-colored Prosecco is prized for its delicate flavors and<br />
aromas, which are often described as having citrus overtones<br />
and being reminiscent of ripe pears, melons, and sweet<br />
apples with hints of almonds.<br />
Hailing from the eastern part of Italy’s Veneto region, in<br />
the foothills of the Alps (just north of Venice), Prosecco is<br />
produced from the grape of the same name (sometimes<br />
combined with a small amount of Pinot Blanc or Pinot Grigio),<br />
and made into lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling<br />
(spumante) styles. Traditionally, it has been off-dry or slightly<br />
sweet, but many today are crisp and dry and produced<br />
principally in two versions—brut and extra dry (which is<br />
actually slightly sweeter than the brut).<br />
Prosecco has a persistent taste and is clean on the palate,<br />
which makes it great with <strong>food</strong> such as egg dishes, almonds<br />
and other nuts, fresh cheese, green salad, Chinese <strong>food</strong>,<br />
white meats, or pasta dishes with a light meat sauce. Crab,<br />
lobster, shrimp, salmon, or sea scallops also make tasty<br />
matches. And sweet, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese offers<br />
a nice counterpoint to this fresh bubbly. As the Venetians do in<br />
Prosecco’s homeland, enjoy it throughout the meal.<br />
MIX IT UP For a brunch twist,<br />
use it in a Mimosa: Fill a wine<br />
glass or champagne flute<br />
halfway with chilled Prosecco<br />
(about 1 ounce) and top off<br />
with chilled orange juice<br />
(about 2 ounces), gently<br />
stir. If you’d like, add<br />
a splash of triple sec<br />
or Grand Marnier<br />
to taste. ■<br />
56 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />
PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
©2006 Unilever<br />
SAUCE SO<br />
GOOD, ITALIAN<br />
CHEFS WISH<br />
WE’D DISAPPEAR.<br />
The perfect blend of tomato, 100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder<br />
chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.