real food

Why Should I Care About Acne? cne is a very common skin condition that affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated. AWhat Causes Acne? cne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest, and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands. All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. These types of bacteria can also cause inflammation in the skin.

Why Should I Care
About Acne?
cne is a very common skin condition that affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of
self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated.
AWhat Causes Acne?
cne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest,
and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands.
All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. These types of bacteria can also cause inflammation in the skin.


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Why Should I Care<br />

About Acne?<br />

Acne is a very common<br />

skin condition that<br />

affects over 90% of people<br />

at some point in their lives.<br />

When adolescents are<br />

developing a strong sense of<br />

self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause<br />

low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent<br />

scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it<br />

bothers the patient, it should be treated.<br />

What Causes Acne?<br />

Acne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules<br />

and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest,<br />

and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands.<br />

All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their<br />

bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has<br />

nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also<br />

have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to<br />

the oil as a <strong>food</strong> source. These types of bacteria can also cause<br />

inflammation in the skin.<br />

How Common Is Acne?<br />

Acne is genetically determined, running in families. As<br />

oil glands in the skin become activated by hormones<br />

during adolescence, we first start to see acne. Unfortunately,<br />

acne doesn’t always disappear when we leave our teens. I treat<br />

many patients with acne into their 20s, 30s, and even beyond.<br />

How Is Acne Treated?<br />

Acne can be treated by unplugging the pores, reducing<br />

inflammation, reducing bacteria, or actively decreasing<br />

oil production. Topical preparations like chemical peels or<br />

salicylic acid will unplug follicles, while topical antibiotic<br />

solutions will decrease bacteria and certain acne creams<br />

can reduce inflammation. Other medications and lasers can<br />

also decrease oil production. One of the best kept secrets<br />

when it comes to treating acne is that the vast majority of<br />

acne treatments are designed to improve acne, but very few<br />

treatments are designed to clear acne up completely. This<br />

is one of the biggest concerns my patients express to me.<br />

They are using medicine to treat acne, and while they say<br />

their condition is better, they still have acne. The treatments<br />

make the condition better compared to not using any type of<br />

treatment, but they will not necessarily make acne 100% clear.<br />

There is one very effective medicine for the total clearing of<br />

acne, but it has side effects that need to be monitored carefully<br />

under the direction of a dermatologist.<br />

What Action Steps Can Be Taken Now<br />

For Addressing My Acne?<br />

• Treat acne as soon as you notice it.<br />

• While there are many topical over-the-counter preparations,<br />

consult with a board-certified dermatologist to identify the<br />

best treatment plan.<br />

• Always use very gentle, non-abrasive, non-harsh cleansers and<br />

moisturizers.<br />

• If problems persist after initial treatment, inform your<br />

dermatologist to revise your treatment plan.<br />

Treating acne appropriately and early can prevent low<br />

self-esteem, discomfort, and scars that last a lifetime. Visit<br />

CrutchfieldDermatology.com for more information.<br />

Follow us on Facebook and on Twitter @CrutchfieldDerm.<br />

BEFORE<br />

AFTER<br />

Acne patient treated by Dr. Crutchfi eld<br />

Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD, is a graduate of the Mayo Clinic Medical School and a Clinical Professor of Dermatology<br />

at the University of Minnesota Medical School. Dr. Crutchfi eld is an annual selection in the “Top Doctors” issue of Mpls. St. Paul<br />

magazine, and is the only dermatologist to have been selected as a “Best Doctor for Women” by<br />

Minnesota Monthly magazine since the inception of the survey. Dr. Crutchfi eld has also been selected<br />

as one of the “Best Doctors in America,” an honor awarded to only 4% of all practicing physicians. Dr.<br />

Crutchfi eld is the co-author of a children’s book on sun protection and dermatology textbook. He is a<br />

member of the AOA National Medical Honor Society, an expert consultant for WebMD and CNN, and a<br />

recipient of the Karis Humanitarian Award from the Mayo Clinic School of Medicine.<br />



MARCH 1 & 2, 2014 • 1-5 PM • INSIDE TARGET FIELD<br />




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contents<br />

Features<br />

18 Celebrate Citrus<br />

Infuse your meal with the<br />

sunny sweet tang of citrus.<br />


26 Spirited Dishes<br />

Add depth of flavor to your<br />

favorite dish with a shot of<br />

wine, beer, or spirit.<br />


36 Bistro Brunch<br />

An indulgent French accent<br />

for a leisurely, satisfying<br />

midday meal.<br />


<strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong><br />

spring 2014<br />

44 Terrific Turmeric<br />

The beloved golden spice<br />

is synonymous with health<br />

and flavor.<br />


52 Farm to Restaurant<br />

Acclaimed French Chef Daniel<br />

Boulud reveals the breadth of<br />

his inspirations.<br />


p.41<br />

Our Cover<br />

Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce over Lemony<br />

Spinach Rice (page 23). This page: Pommes Anna<br />

(page 41). Photographs by Terry Brennan<br />

1 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> winter 2013

contributors<br />

Serena Bass is known for<br />

being New York City’s caterer to the<br />

stars and has thrown parties for Andy<br />

Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade,<br />

Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane,<br />

and countless others. Her cookbook,<br />

Serena, Food & Stories, won the James<br />

Beard Award for best entertaining book.<br />

Currently, Bass is also the executive chef<br />

at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York,<br />

and holds monthly cooking classes in<br />

St. Paul, Minnesota. Photograph by<br />

David Loftus.<br />

Terry Brennan is an awardwinning<br />

photographer who has worked<br />

for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser,<br />

Target, and many national advertising<br />

agencies. “My <strong>real</strong> passion lies in<br />

editorial work,” he says, “in which a<br />

photographer’s freedom to create a<br />

story or look through the photograph<br />

is much greater.”<br />

Nina Simonds is an awardwinning<br />

author, journalist, and one<br />

of the country’s leading authorities<br />

on Asian <strong>food</strong> and culture. In 2001,<br />

Newsweek named her one of<br />

“America’s Top Twenty-Five Asian<br />

Hands.” She is the author of 11<br />

books on Chinese cuisine and culture,<br />

including the best-selling A Spoonful<br />

of Ginger and Spices of Life, both of<br />

which won both the IACP and the<br />

James Beard Foundation Book Award<br />

for Health. Her latest cookbook,<br />

Simple Asian Meals was published last<br />

January. Her popular <strong>food</strong>, health, and<br />

lifestyle website is at spicesoflife.com.<br />

Robin Asbell spreads the word<br />

about how truly delicious and beautiful<br />

whole, <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong>s can be through her<br />

work as an author, cooking teacher, and<br />

private chef. She likes to add special<br />

touches to dishes that range from meat<br />

and sea<strong>food</strong> to beans and grains, with<br />

an emphasis on taste. Her latest book is<br />

Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes No Meat<br />

No Dairy All Delicious, which follows<br />

The New Whole Grains Cookbook, and<br />

the New Vegetarian.<br />

Tara Q. Thomas gave up<br />

cooking professionally to become a<br />

culinary-obsessed writer. She’s been a<br />

senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the<br />

past decade and writes regularly for the<br />

Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica,<br />

and Gourmet.com. The Brooklyn,<br />

New York–based mom of two is also<br />

author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide<br />

to Wine Basics.<br />

Lara Miklasevics began her<br />

<strong>food</strong> career on the other side of the<br />

camera, cooking at the renowned New<br />

French Café. Today her work as a stylist<br />

is in demand at corporations including<br />

Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well<br />

as with many magazines. She prides<br />

herself on using her experience as a<br />

chef to make <strong>food</strong> as appealing on the<br />

page as it is on the plate.<br />

Jason Ross is a culinary instructor<br />

at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has<br />

worked as a consultant to help develop<br />

menus at many Twin Cities restaurants.<br />

He grew up in New York City but now<br />

calls St. Paul home, where he lives with<br />

his wife and two young daughters.<br />

2 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

contents<br />

p.6<br />

Departments<br />

2 Contributors<br />

4 Bites<br />

A gluten-free banana bread shows that it’s<br />

possible to enjoy delicious homemade <strong>food</strong><br />

and adhere to a restrictive diet.<br />


56<br />

6 Kitchen Skills<br />

Science meets art in creating<br />

a successful soufflé.<br />


17 Ingredient<br />

Nutritious, cost-effective,<br />

and versatile, what’s not to<br />

love about the simple egg?<br />


56 Pairings<br />

Prosecco is fast becoming<br />

prized for its delicate flavors and<br />

aromas of sweet apples, ripe<br />

pears, and almonds.<br />


4<br />

17<br />





VOLUME 10, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402,<br />

612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from<br />

the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.<strong>real</strong><strong>food</strong>mag.com<br />

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed<br />

on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed<br />

to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 3

ites<br />

Gluten-Free Baking<br />

There’s nothing inherently “bad” about gluten. It’s not an evil chemical produced in a test tube by a mad scientist, nor is it<br />

adding plaque to our coronary arteries. It shouldn’t be grouped with trans fats or MSG. Gluten is what’s formed when two<br />

of the thirty proteins found in wheat, rye, and barley get wet. That’s all there is to it.<br />

But what’s evil is that this natural reaction can be harmful to the health of millions. Understanding the need to live gluten-free<br />

starts with understanding how gluten can cause life-threatening problems if not removed from the diet of those who cannot<br />

tolerate it. But the good news is that following a gluten-free diet can mitigate debilitating symptoms and pain in as little as a<br />

few months, and a change of diet is the only answer. The need is for <strong>food</strong> rather than a pharmacy.<br />


Gluten-Free Banana Bread<br />

MAKES 1 LOAF<br />

Banana Bread is a classic go-to recipe when there are bananas getting overly ripe, which is when they have the best flavor. In my<br />

opinion, you should never eat a banana unless it is covered with dark spots. Bright yellow is not good enough. But it’s a quick trip<br />

from “perfection” to “on the way out,” which is where banana bread comes in. Crunchy pecans add some textural interest to this<br />

version, which is scented by rum as well as spices. Serve this aromatic bread for breakfast spread with cream cheese mixed with dried<br />

fruit, or topped with a hot fruit compote for dessert.<br />

½ cup chopped pecans<br />

½ cup millet flour<br />

½ cup brown rice flour<br />

½ cup tapioca flour<br />

¹⁄3 cup cornstarch<br />

1½ teaspoons gluten-free baking powder<br />

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin or agar powder<br />

¾ teaspoon xanthan gum<br />

½ teaspoon fine salt<br />

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg<br />

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter,<br />

at room temperature<br />

½ cup granulated sugar<br />

½ cup firmly packed dark<br />

brown sugar<br />

1 large egg, at room temperature<br />

1 cup very ripe mashed bananas<br />

(2 or 3, depending on size)<br />

¼ cup dark rum, or ½ teaspoon<br />

rum extract mixed with<br />

¼ cup water<br />

¼ cup buttermilk, shaken<br />

1 ripe banana, thinly sliced<br />

(optional)<br />

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and grease an 8½ × 4½-inch loaf pan with vegetable oil spray. Place<br />

the pecans on a baking sheet and toast them for 5 to 7 minutes, or until browned.<br />

2. Combine the millet flour, rice flour, tapioca flour, cornstarch, baking powder, gelatin, xanthan<br />

gum, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large, deep mixing bowl and whisk well.<br />

3. Combine the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat at<br />

low speed to combine, then raise the speed to high and beat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until light and<br />

fluffy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the egg, mashed bananas, rum, and<br />

buttermilk. Beat at medium speed until smooth. Add the dry ingredients at low speed and beat<br />

for 2 minutes. Stir in the pecans.<br />

4. Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in<br />

water. Place overlapping slices of banana on top of the dough, if using.<br />

5. Bake the bread for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out<br />

clean. Check the bread after 30 minutes and cover it loosely with aluminum foil if it is getting too<br />

brown. Place the pan on a cooling rack and let cool for 30 minutes, then turn the bread out of the<br />

pan and serve.<br />

Note: The bread can be served hot or at room temperature. Once cool, keep it refrigerated, tightly<br />

wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days. ■<br />







4 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Easy Gluten-Free<br />

Luckily for people who have been diagnosed with celiac disease and others who<br />

may find they feel better avoiding gluten, following a gluten-free diet is easier<br />

today than ever before. There are more ready-made gluten-free <strong>food</strong> products on<br />

the shelves, but it’s possible to make delicious homemade <strong>food</strong>s using gluten-free<br />

ingredients, including bread. This recipe by veteran <strong>food</strong>ie Ellen Brown, founding<br />

<strong>food</strong> editor of USA Today and author of more than 35 cookbooks, including the<br />

recently-released Gluten-Free Bread, shows you can even easily make the everpopular<br />

banana bread with the right balance of protein-rich flours and starches.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 5

kitchen skills<br />

Science Meets Art<br />


Culinary Instructor<br />

Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota<br />

Many cooks play willy-nilly with<br />

recipes, creating as they go.<br />

Pastries cooks, however, more<br />

alchemist than artist, stick to the rules<br />

and follow recipes as written. That’s the<br />

general belief at least.<br />

While rules of weights and measures<br />

hold up for the pastry cook 95 percent<br />

of the time, there are exceptions. There<br />

are desserts where pastry cooks should<br />

feel free to change things up, mixing and<br />

matching as they please.<br />

As scary as they may sound, soufflés<br />

actually have wide latitude and can be<br />

easily adapted to whatever happens to be<br />

in the refrigerator. A successful soufflé, all<br />

puffed up, crunchy on the top, and meltingly<br />

soft inside, has more to do with an<br />

eye for good consistency and touch than<br />

accurate weights or adherence to recipes.<br />

Soufflés have two basics parts. Something<br />

flavorful forms the first part, the<br />

base: melted chocolate, fruit sauces or<br />

jams, nut butters, or coffee extracts,<br />

thickened with a few egg yolks. The<br />

second part, whipped egg whites, lightens<br />

the base and makes the magic that drives<br />

the soufflé up and over the rim of the dish<br />

as it cooks, forming the signature brown,<br />

crisped crown.<br />

The ratios and amounts of the two parts<br />

can vary and still hold a reasonably stable<br />

soufflé. For every 4 egg whites, use roughly<br />

1 tablespoon sugar. Adjust the amounts<br />

to vary the thickness of the soufflé’s rising<br />

power or level of eggy-ness.<br />

Once you get the hang of folding<br />

whipped whites into a base, throwing<br />

together a quick soufflé can be as easy as<br />

poking your head into the refrigerator for<br />

a few eggs and mixing up whatever you<br />

happen to have on hand.<br />

TRICKS of the TRADE:<br />

Whipping egg whites.<br />

• Clean the bowl and whisk well before use.<br />

• Ensure the egg whites are “clean,” containing no bits of broken yolks.<br />

Fat will disrupt the egg whites from whipping and forming a fluffy white<br />

mixture.<br />

• Do not over-whip the egg whites, as this will cause the “foam” to break<br />

and liquid will seep out on the bottom. Once the whites form a soft peak<br />

when pulled from the whisk, stop.<br />

Folding. Folding combines light mixtures with heavy mixtures without<br />

collapsing the lighter mixture.<br />

• First, thin out the heavy mixture with about ¹⁄3 of the lighter mixture,<br />

mixing freely.<br />

• Next, add the rest of the light mixture and begin folding. With a rubber<br />

spatula, cut down to the bottom of the bowl. Run the spatula along the<br />

bottom of the bowl, scraping the mixture up the side of the bowl (the<br />

spatula edge should stay pressed against the bowl as you fold). Turn the<br />

bowl a quarter turn and repeat until mixtures are incorporated.<br />


6 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Quick Chocolate Soufflé<br />


2 to 3 tablespoons butter<br />

2 to 3 tablespoons sugar<br />

For the base<br />

3 egg yolks, at room temperature<br />

1 teaspoon brandy<br />

¼ cup sugar<br />

6 ounces semisweet or dark chocolate, melted<br />

For the whipped egg whites<br />

3 egg whites<br />

¾ tablespoon sugar<br />

pinch salt<br />

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Generously butter 6 ramekins and dust with sugar.<br />

2. For the base: In a bowl or mixer, whisk together egg yolks, brandy, and<br />

sugar. (If the eggs are too cold when added to the chocolate, it can seize<br />

up and cool down.) Sugar should completely dissolve and mixture should<br />

thicken and shift from bright orange to pale yellow. This is known as ribbon<br />

stage yolks. Stir in chocolate with a spatula. Set aside.<br />

3. For the whipped egg whites: In a bowl or mixer, whisk egg whites until<br />

frothy and starting to thicken. Add ¾ tablespoons sugar and pinch salt and<br />

continue to whip. Mixture should form a soft peak as it pulls from whisk.<br />

4. Using a rubber spatula, mix roughly ¹⁄3 of egg whites into chocolate<br />

mixture until fully incorporated. This lightens the chocolate mixture and<br />

helps to protect the air caught in the remaining egg whites and drive up<br />

the soufflé as it cooks. Add remaining egg whites and carefully fold until<br />

fully mixed with no streaks.<br />

5. Using a spoon, drop soufflé batter into ramekins. Level with top of ramekin<br />

using the back of a knife. The batter-filled ramekins can be prepared up to<br />

a day in advance and stored in the refrigerator.<br />

6. Place soufflés on a tray and in oven. Bake until they rise and form a<br />

browned crown, roughly 10 minutes. Give pan a gentle shake; soufflés<br />

should hold their shape and not appear liquidy.<br />

7. When soufflés are done, remove from oven and serve immediately<br />

as they will start to deflate as they cool. Slide a metal spatula under hot<br />

ramekins to move onto plates and serve with Chocolate Whipped Cream.<br />

3.<br />

4.<br />

Chocolate Whipped Cream<br />

MAKES 2 CUPS<br />

½ teaspoon vanilla<br />

2 tablespoons sugar<br />

1. In a bowl or mixer, combine vanilla, sugar, and cocoa. Pour in ¼ cup cream<br />

and mix until combined. Pour in remaining cream and whip until thick. The<br />

whipped cream should form a soft peak on an upturned whisk.<br />

Cook’s Note: Fresh whipped cream is best used the same day, but could be<br />

stored overnight in the refrigerator. Sometimes after storage the whipped<br />

cream will “break,” leaving a telltale sign of liquid at the bottom of the container<br />

and slightly deflated and grainy<br />

textured whipped cream. You might be<br />

able to re-whisk the whipped cream for<br />

a few seconds to restore the creamy<br />

texture, if it hasn’t gone too far. ■<br />

1 tablespoon cocoa<br />

1 cup heavy cream<br />




(239 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 16g);<br />

CHOL 148mg; SODIUM 105mg;<br />

CARB 38g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g<br />

5.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 7

Those who love to cook make more than <strong>food</strong> in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing<br />

stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has<br />

been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor <strong>food</strong>—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about<br />

Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

welcome<br />

LUNDS<br />

Bloomington: 952-896-0092<br />

Edina: 952-926-6833<br />

Minneapolis<br />

Downtown: 612-379-5040<br />

Northeast: 612-548-3820<br />

Uptown: 612-825-2440<br />

Minnetonka: 952-935-0198<br />

Navarre: 952-471-8473<br />

Plymouth: 763-268-1624<br />

Prior Lake: 952-440-3900<br />

Richfield: 612-861-1881<br />

St. Paul: 651-698-5845<br />

Wayzata: 952-476-2222<br />

BYERLY’S<br />

Burnsville: 952-892-5600<br />

Chanhassen: 952-474-1298<br />

Eagan: 651-686-9669<br />

Edina: 952-831-3601<br />

Golden Valley: 763-544-8846<br />

Maple Grove: 763-416-1611<br />

Ridgedale: 952-541-1414<br />

Roseville: 651-633-6949<br />

St. Cloud: 320-252-4112<br />

St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100<br />

St. Paul: 651-735-6340<br />


LundsandByerlys.com<br />


Get answers from our FoodE Experts.<br />

952-548-1400<br />

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In our never-ending quest to push the<br />

envelope for <strong>food</strong> service and product<br />

offerings, we will be opening a chefdriven,<br />

first-of-its-kind <strong>food</strong> destination<br />

in the Twin Cities in early March called<br />

Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />

As the name implies, Lunds and<br />

Byerly’s Kitchen will focus extensively<br />

on freshly prepared <strong>food</strong>s. It will feature<br />

everything from a restaurant with<br />

a beer and wine bar to an impressive<br />

array of made-to-order sandwiches,<br />

sushi, a charcuterie with cut-to-order<br />

meats, and more—all available for dinein<br />

or take-out.<br />

If you just need to visit Lunds and<br />

Byerly’s Kitchen for a few staple items<br />

such as milk, bread, and fresh produce,<br />

we’ll have you covered there, too. For a<br />

much wider selection of grocery offerings,<br />

you’ll be able to place an order<br />

using our online grocery shopping service<br />

at LundsandByerlys.com, and your<br />

order will be available for next-day<br />

pickup at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />

Inspiration for our newest concept<br />

came, in part, from visits to national<br />

and international trendsetters in the<br />

<strong>food</strong> service industry. Much of our<br />

inspiration was also driven internally<br />

from our amazingly talented team of<br />

culinary experts and our successful<br />

Creations Café at Byerly’s Golden Valley<br />

and Byerly’s<br />

Ridgedale.<br />

Our chefs have<br />

developed many<br />

seasonal offerings<br />

featuring <strong>food</strong>s<br />

and flavors from<br />

around the world<br />

along with many<br />

comfort <strong>food</strong>s<br />

we Minnesotans know and love. We’ll<br />

be using innovative technology in the<br />

restaurant so you can browse the menu,<br />

view recommended wine and local beer<br />

pairings, and place your order with the<br />

tap of a button.<br />

I encourage you to turn to the following<br />

pages to learn much more about<br />

Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen. It truly is a<br />

unique hybrid that combines our proven<br />

acumen for retail and <strong>food</strong> service.<br />

We hope you’ll find some time to<br />

visit our new location when it opens<br />

on March 6. If you do, please be sure<br />

to let us know what you think.<br />

Sincerely,<br />

Tres Lund<br />

Chairman and CEO<br />

Tres<br />

Lund<br />

Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys<br />

Twitter.com/LundsandByerlys<br />

Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys<br />

LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 9

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

sea<strong>food</strong><br />

10 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

sea<strong>food</strong><br />

Coho salmon caught exclusively<br />

for Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

BY MARY SMITH, Alaskan fisherman<br />

It’s still dark out when the captain yells,<br />

“rise and shine!” You can’t argue with<br />

the captain (even if he is your husband).<br />

I roll out of the bunk and pull on my wool<br />

socks and rubber boots. We have about 15<br />

minutes before we have to set the gear; just<br />

enough time to make a pot of strong coffee<br />

and eat a granola bar. It’s early September<br />

in Alaska and even though the summer has<br />

been sunnier than normal, it’s still pretty<br />

chilly out at 5 a.m., so I slip on a sweatshirt<br />

and warm hat before heading out on deck.<br />

We set our gear as the sun climbs up over<br />

the mountains. It’s another gorgeous day<br />

on the ocean! My husband David and I are<br />

trollers and owners of Springline Sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />

We harvest wild coho salmon (also known<br />

as silver salmon) exclusively for Lunds and<br />

Byerly’s off the shore of Yakobi Island,<br />

Alaska. Trolling is one of the most intimate<br />

forms of commercial fishing—each salmon<br />

is hooked and brought to the boat individually<br />

and we land each one by hand. We love<br />

having this kind of control over the fish we<br />

catch; it allows us to make sure that each<br />

salmon we handle meets the very highest<br />

quality standards.<br />

Catching salmon is just<br />

a part of our day. We’re a<br />

freezer boat, so after bringing<br />

each batch of fish aboard<br />

our boat, The Virga, we carefully<br />

process them for the<br />

freezing. We clean each fish<br />

to ensure it’s perfect, even<br />

using a tiny, pressurized<br />

hose to finish the process<br />

with surgical precision. It’s<br />

painstaking, but it means when these<br />

salmon head into our deep freeze, they<br />

are absolutely pristine. We like to think of<br />

ourselves as artisans, and our meticulous<br />

process means we can only put up about<br />

100 fish each day.<br />

As soon as the first batch of salmon is<br />

clean, David crawls down into the freezer.<br />

It’s 40 degrees below zero down there, so<br />

we work quickly to load the fish onto their<br />

racks. Because we run a small operation,<br />

we’re able to get our fish landed, processed,<br />

and into the freezer in less than an hour.<br />

That’s what “frozen at sea” <strong>real</strong>ly means.<br />

We’re able to use temperature to essentially<br />

hold that fish at the freshness it was when<br />

it was caught. We call our freezer “The<br />

Time Machine” because it <strong>real</strong>ly stops time<br />

for that fish. When it arrives in the case at<br />

your Lunds or Byerly’s store, you’re seeing<br />

it pretty much as we last saw it in Alaska.<br />

We love being an exclusive supplier to<br />

Lunds and Byerly’s. As a fisherman, it’s a<br />

joy knowing each fish that comes aboard<br />

our boat is destined for a customer who<br />

appreciates quality, value, and sustainability.<br />

And let’s not forget the most important<br />

reason—flavor! Coho salmon have a clean,<br />

fresh flavor that’s tough to beat, and our<br />

process locks in that flavor.<br />

We hope you’ll make the most of this<br />

opportunity to enjoy wild Alaska coho<br />

salmon, harvested exclusively for Lunds and<br />

Byerly’s. It’s not just a chance to eat well; it’s<br />

also a delicious way to support hardworking<br />

artisans at sea catching salmon the good<br />

old-fashioned way. ■<br />

Lunds and Byerly's is committed to offering you a wide variety of responsibly<br />

sourced wild-caught and farm-raised sea<strong>food</strong> through partnerships with<br />

organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices that preserve<br />

and improve our oceans’ ecosystems. Look for our “Responsibly Sourced”<br />

icon for your guarantee that our sea<strong>food</strong> comes from a sustainable fishery.<br />

For more information, visit LundsandByerlys.com/SustainableSea<strong>food</strong>.<br />

LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 11

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

what’s in store<br />


Made with rich, chewy Irish oats and flavored with ingredients<br />

sourced from around the globe, McCann’s brings the best the world<br />

has to offer to your bowl. Ready in an instant, you’ll delight in the<br />

wholesome, simple ingredients, heart-healthy whole grains, and four<br />

unique flavor combinations.<br />

Did you know? The temperate, humid climate of Ireland promotes<br />

the slow ripening of this grain. It enables oats to draw the goodness<br />

from the soil and yield up nature’s bounty.<br />

rOBert rOthschiLd<br />

FarM preserVes<br />

New flavors have arrived in the Robert Rothschild Farm collection. Hatch chile<br />

jalapeño jam is a medley of peppers that can be used on panini sandwiches<br />

or in sauces. Stone fruit preserves is a delightful blend of tart cherries, sweet<br />

peaches, and apricots. Spread it on toast or use as a glaze for meats.<br />

Did you know? These gourmet jams and preserves are all natural, gluten free,<br />

and kosher. Visit RobertRothschild.com for recipes and entertaining ideas.<br />


Prepared in the style of traditional English custard,<br />

Stonewall Kitchen lemon curd adds a regal touch of sweet<br />

and tart to scones, cookies, or your favorite breakfast bread.<br />

This lemon curd is gluten free and made using less than 10<br />

simple ingredients.<br />

Tip: Try lemon curd on our Lunds and Byerly’s angel <strong>food</strong><br />

cake, topped with fresh fruit and a dollop of whipped<br />

cream. It’s rich, creamy, and very versatile. You’ll love it!<br />

12 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

what’s in store<br />

MccLUre’s picKLes<br />

and reLishes<br />

With great grandma’s pickle<br />

recipe at their fingertips, the<br />

McClure brothers sure make<br />

a mean jar of pickles. Every<br />

cucumber is hand sliced and<br />

every jar hand packed. Bob<br />

and Joe use as much local<br />

produce as possible.<br />

Tip: Visit McCluresPickles.com<br />

for tasty recipes, such as<br />

pickle pizza, bloody marys,<br />

marinades, and bloody<br />

mary gumbo.<br />



Our beer cheese soup you know and<br />

love is now even tastier and features<br />

more local ingredients! Our executive<br />

chefs have packed incredible flavor<br />

into this soup with the addition of local<br />

Land O'Lakes sharp cheddar cheese and<br />

Summit Pilsener, giving it a rich, smooth<br />

taste with an added tang.<br />

Enjoy this flavorful and hearty<br />

soup on our next chilly<br />

Minnesota night.<br />





Merryvale Vineyard is known for wines that<br />

are fruit driven and <strong>food</strong> friendly. These wines<br />

reflect the fruit of their Napa Valley heritage with<br />

subtle oak nuances. Starmont Chardonnay is<br />

lively with focused aromas and flavors of apple,<br />

pear, and vanilla.<br />

Tip: For an extra dash of flavor and<br />

crunch, sprinkle popcorn on your beer<br />

cheese soup right before serving. Or<br />

try it with toasted bruschetta topped<br />

with tomato, onion, and prosciutto.<br />

Did you know? Merryvale Vineyard, which<br />

is state of the art and solar powered, crafts<br />

premium wines from sustainably farmed grapes.<br />

LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 13

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

kitchen<br />

Bringing Our<br />

Kitchen to You<br />

Shop. Eat. Drink. Explore.<br />

BY STEVE CARDA, General Manager, Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen<br />

Cozy up to our fireplace with a glass<br />

of wine expertly paired with a chefcrafted<br />

flight of Alaskan salmon.<br />

Stop by to grab soup, salad, or sandwiches<br />

for the whole crew before heading out for<br />

a day of fun around Lake Minnetonka. Or,<br />

simply check milk and bread off the shopping<br />

list on your way home.<br />

You’ll soon be able to do all of this and<br />

more at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen, a firstof-its-kind<br />

<strong>food</strong> destination opening in The<br />

Promenade of Wayzata on March 6. This is<br />

a place for great <strong>food</strong>, personable expertise,<br />

and shopping convenience.<br />



Stepping through the glass double doors on<br />

the corner of Superior Boulevard and Mill<br />

Street, you’re welcomed to the restaurant<br />

with mouth-watering aromas drifting from<br />

The 143-seat restaurant and bar will feature chef-crafted<br />

seasonal offerings, stone oven pizzas, burgers, and more. We'll<br />

also have an impressive selection of wine and local craft beers.<br />

the chef’s latest creations. Please feel free to<br />

take a seat at a booth or table (you’ll have<br />

to wait until the snow melts to sit on our<br />

patio). Use the iPad at each table to scroll<br />

through the menu—enjoy stone oven pizzas,<br />

a juicy burger, or seasonal flights of<br />

meats and sea<strong>food</strong>, just to name a few of<br />

our offerings. Once your taste buds decide<br />

on a meal, place your order and pay from<br />

the convenience of the iPad.<br />

If you’d prefer, grab some seats at the beer<br />

and wine bar in the restaurant. Our experts<br />

are happy to suggest a local brew or teach<br />

you why a particular wine pairs perfectly<br />

with your meal.<br />

Just past the restaurant, you’ll find a lot<br />

more meal inspiration and solutions for you<br />

and your family. This includes everything<br />

from made-to-order sandwiches , hand-rolled<br />

sushi prepared daily from master chefs, and<br />

classic comfort <strong>food</strong>s such as meatloaf, mac<br />

& cheese, and our Lunds and Byerly’s soups.<br />

We also have an amazing salad bar featuring<br />

grilled and chilled items such as salmon,<br />

prosciutto, and seasonal vegetables.<br />

You’ll also find a charcuterie station featuring<br />

cut-to-order Italian meats, an impressive<br />

cheese counter with wedges from around the<br />

globe, and a flavor-packed olive and antipasti<br />

bar. As you can see, we’ll have an impressive<br />

array of options for every taste preference.<br />

In fact, you could visit us every day of the<br />

week and pick up something different for<br />

every member of your family.<br />

And if you need a hot drink before<br />

stepping back into that Minnesota chill,<br />

Caribou Coffee is in Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

Kitchen. Caribou is even roasting coffee<br />

beans right on site.<br />

Just before you hit the parking lot, you<br />

can pick up some milk, berries, ground<br />

beef, and more as we have a tailored selection<br />

of groceries you know and love from<br />

our produce, dairy, frozen, bakery, and meat<br />

departments.<br />

For our full Lunds and Byerly’s product<br />

selection, you can place an order through<br />

the iPads in our restaurant or online at<br />

LundsandByerlys.com/ShopOnline. We’ll<br />

have your groceries delivered right to Lunds<br />

and Byerly’s Kitchen where they will be<br />

available for pick up in assigned lockers<br />

located in the entryway adjacent to our<br />

covered parking lot.<br />

Thank you ladies and gentlemen, we<br />

hope you enjoyed your visit!<br />

While your written tour has come to<br />

an end, we hope you join us in person to<br />

explore our next evolution of <strong>food</strong>-service<br />

offerings. Your taste buds will thank you! ■<br />

14 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

kitchen<br />

Lunds and Byerly's Kitchen will focus extensively on freshly prepared <strong>food</strong>s. We'll have<br />

everything from made-to-order sandwiches and sushi to an amazing salad bar and<br />

charcuterie featuring cut-to-order Italian meats. All is available for dine-in or take-out.<br />

Additional offerings will include a tailored selection of groceries, specialty products, and a<br />

Caribou Coffee. Enjoy your coffee or meal in the café seating area adjacent to Caribou.<br />

LundsandByerlys.com <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 15

Lunds and Byerly’s<br />

kitchen<br />

Q&A<br />

with<br />

Chef<br />

Greg<br />

Opening:<br />

March 6, 2014<br />

250 Superior Boulevard<br />

Wayzata, MN 55391<br />

Hours:<br />

Sunday-Thursday:<br />

6 a.m. – 10 p.m.<br />

Friday and Saturday:<br />

6 a.m. – 11 p.m.<br />

Let’s stay<br />

connected!<br />

We’re excited to welcome the newest member<br />

of our executive chef team: Greg Johnson. We<br />

sat down with Greg to hear more about his head<br />

chef position at Lunds and Byerly’s Kitchen.<br />

Q: What’s your culinary background?<br />

A: Most recently, I was the executive chef at Kincaid's in St. Paul. I’ve also been a sous<br />

chef at the Dakota Jazz Club and the Blackbird Café in Minneapolis. I worked in San<br />

Francisco for a few years as a sous chef at the Grand Café and the Palomino as well.<br />

Q: What’s your cooking style?<br />

A: Fresh, seasonal, and local. The simpler the better in my opinion. I love getting back to<br />

our roots and cooking from the land. You don’t need five different sauces or an army<br />

of overpowering <strong>food</strong>s. Simplicity showcases the best flavors each dish has to offer.<br />

Q: Why did you want to become a chef?<br />

A: I actually wasn’t sure what I wanted to be. Growing up in a large family meant lots of<br />

<strong>food</strong> all the time, and with my mom constantly cooking for us and for her job, good<br />

<strong>food</strong> was always a part of my life. I looked around and found a culinary program at St.<br />

Cloud Tech that stood out to me. Being a chef <strong>real</strong>ly clicked for me when I worked in<br />

my first kitchen—I have a passion for <strong>food</strong> and love being part of a team. There’s just<br />

an allure to being part of that creativity.<br />

Q: Can you give us a teaser for the new menu?<br />

A: It’s a diverse menu that appeals to every appetite. In addition to a lot of classic comfort<br />

<strong>food</strong>s, we’ll also be offering flights. These are small presentations that allow you to explore<br />

the versatility of a particular <strong>food</strong>. One of my favorites we’re thinking about is a smoked<br />

sea<strong>food</strong> flight: smoked trout with horseradish cream and house pickles, smoked mussel<br />

chowder with rye bread croutons and chive, and dill-cured salmon with creamy herb<br />

spaetzle. We’ll be creating new flights every week using a wide variety of meats and sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />

Join us on Facebook<br />

at Facebook.com/<br />

LundsandByerlysKitchen<br />

or scan the QR code below.<br />

Sign up for email updates<br />

on our menu offerings,<br />

special offers, and events by<br />

visiting LundsandByerlys.<br />

com/Kitchen or scan<br />

the QR code below.<br />

16 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

ingredient<br />

The Good Egg<br />


Where would we be without eggs? If you have them in the fridge,<br />

you’ve got endless options for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or dessert.<br />

They're packed with nutrition, cost-effective, and keep much longer<br />

than you may have thought. Here are highlights of this much-loved staple plus a<br />

quick and easy recipe for home or on the go.<br />

Nutrition: Eggs are a very good source of protein and a good source of riboflavin,<br />

vitamin B12 and phosphorus, and selenium—all at only about 72 calories for<br />

one large egg. Many people may have shied away from eggs for fear of dietary<br />

cholesterol. However, more than 40 years of research have shown that healthy<br />

adults can enjoy eggs without significantly impacting their risk of heart disease,<br />

according to the American Egg Board based on information from the United<br />

States Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service.<br />

There are more options when you’re reaching for a carton of eggs these<br />

days. You'll find eggs with increased omega-3 content, or added vitamins, minerals,<br />

or carotenoids, and some have altered fat content. Nutrient-enhanced<br />

eggs are created by varying the hens’ diet. Check labels for nutrient facts.<br />

Color: Egg shell and yolk color may vary, but the color has no relationship to<br />

egg quality, flavor, nutritive value, or cooking characteristics. The breed of hen<br />

determines the color of the shell. Since brown-egg layers are slightly larger birds<br />

and require more <strong>food</strong>, that’s the reason brown eggs are usually more expensive<br />

than white.<br />

Storing: It’s best to store eggs on an inside shelf in your fridge. You can keep<br />

fresh, uncooked eggs in the shell refrigerated (at 35 to 45°F ) in their cartons for<br />

about three weeks after you bring them home, according to the American Egg<br />

Board. Refrigerate hard-boiled eggs in their shells and use within one week.<br />

Microwave Coffee<br />

Cup Scramble<br />


For a quick and easy breakfast in less<br />

than 3 minutes, try this microwave<br />

egg scramble. Just add your favorite<br />

toppings and take it to go!<br />

2 eggs<br />

2 tablespoons milk<br />

2 tablespoons shredded<br />

Cheddar cheese<br />

salt and pepper to taste<br />

1. Coat a 12-ounce microwave-safe<br />

coffee mug with cooking spray. Add<br />

eggs and milk; beat until blended.<br />

2. Microwave on high 45 seconds; stir.<br />

Microwave until eggs are almost set,<br />

30 to 45 seconds longer. (Microwave<br />

ovens vary. Cooking times may need<br />

to be adjusted.)<br />

3. Top with cheese; season with salt<br />

and pepper.<br />

Note: Never microwave eggs in<br />

shells. Steam builds up too quickly<br />

inside and eggs are likely to explode.<br />

Go for Yolk With the exception of niacin and riboflavin, the yolk<br />

contains a higher proportion of the egg’s vitamins than the white,<br />

including B6 and B12, folic acid, pantothenic acid, thiamin, calcium,<br />

copper, iron, manganese, phosphorus, selenium, and zinc. All of<br />

the egg’s vitamins A, D, E and K are in the yolk. (The yolk of one<br />

large egg contains about 55 calories.)<br />

Source: American Egg Board<br />




17 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

celebrate<br />

Infuse your meals<br />

with the sunny sweet<br />

tang of citrus fruit.<br />

citrusBY ROBIN ASBELL<br />

18 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014



spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 19

As winter fades to spring, we can’t help but crave sunshine. And while you can’t buy a basket of<br />

sunshine, you can fill your cart with the next best thing—tart and sweet citrus fruits to brighten<br />

your favorite <strong>food</strong>s.<br />

It’s the perfect time to celebrate citrus in all its tangy glory. Lemons, limes, and oranges<br />

are so integral to our kitchens that produce managers make sure they’re available year-round.<br />

More exotic citrus fruits, such as blood oranges and kumquats, are only available in the cold months,<br />

so now is the time to enjoy it. The supply will be winding down as we approach summer and the<br />

bounty of warm-weather fruit takes its place. Welcome spring with these sunny citrus recipes.<br />

Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and Avocado Salad<br />

with Kumquat Dressing<br />

Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />

Everybody wants their salads to have some “zazz,” and this one delivers, with its colorful, juicy citrus<br />

and meltingly soft avocados. The dressing makes good use of kumquats, the tiny fruits that are mostly<br />

peel, by cooking thin slices in a syrup and dressing the salad with them. If kumquats aren’t available,<br />

key limes or other small limes can be substituted.<br />

Dressing<br />

2 tablespoons sugar<br />

2 tablespoons water<br />

2 medium kumquats or ½ key lime,<br />

thinly sliced<br />

½ teaspoon salt<br />

½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper<br />

1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil<br />

Salad<br />

1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried,<br />

and torn<br />

2 medium red grapefruit<br />

2 medium Cara Cara oranges<br />

2 large avocados<br />

2 medium scallions, slivered<br />

1. For the dressing: In a 1-quart pot, stir together sugar<br />

and water, and place over high heat. Stir to dissolve<br />

sugar as it comes to a boil and add kumquat. Reduce<br />

heat to just barely bubble and cook 5 minutes. Remove<br />

from heat and let cool slightly. Stir in salt and pepper.<br />

2. Using a sharp chef's knife, cut peel and pith from<br />

grapefruits and cut along membranes to remove sections,<br />

holding fruit over a bowl to catch juice. When<br />

all sections have been removed, hold remaining membrane<br />

over a cup and squeeze to get all juice. Whisk<br />

3 tablespoons grapefruit juice into dressing. Whisk in<br />

lemon juice and oil. Reserve.<br />

3. For the salad: On 4 large salad plates or a platter,<br />

spread lettuce. Cover with grapefruit. Section oranges<br />

in same manner as grapefruit and distribute over grapefruit.<br />

Cut each avocado in half and twist out pit. Using a<br />

sharp paring knife, slice avocado flesh in shell then use<br />

a soupspoon to scoop out. Fan half an avocado over<br />

each salad or all of it over platter. Sprinkle with scallions,<br />

drizzle with dressing, and serve.<br />

orange photo © seralex - Fotolia.com<br />

20 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Red Grapefruit, Cara Cara Orange, and<br />

Avocado Salad with Kumquat Dressing<br />

»Citrus Appeal Freshly squeezed orange, grapefruit, or<br />

blood-orange juice is great on its own or blended into dressings<br />

and sauces. And limes are essential to Mexican cuisine, adding<br />

that hint of tartness to guacamole, salsa, or meat dishes.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 21

»Add Some Zest! The bright outer layer of<br />

the peel is a potent source of flavor, and many<br />

dishes benefit from a grating of it.<br />

Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce<br />

over Lemony Spinach Rice<br />

22 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Salmon in Blood-Orange Sauce<br />

over Lemony Spinach Rice<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

We eat with our eyes first, and when you serve this brilliantly<br />

colored plate, all eyes will be upon the gorgeous red sauce.<br />

Blood oranges, sometimes called Moro oranges, have deep red<br />

juice that is usually tarter than a typical orange. This simple<br />

sauce puts the unique blood-red juice front and center drizzled<br />

over the pink salmon atop a green-flecked bed of rice.<br />

Rice<br />

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil<br />

1 large onion, chopped<br />

2 2-inch strips lemon zest<br />

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock<br />

½ teaspoon salt<br />

1 cup brown basmati rice or<br />

other long-grain brown rice<br />

2 cups (2½ ounces) salad spinach, coarsely chopped<br />

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice<br />

Salmon in Sauce<br />

6 large blood oranges<br />

2 tablespoons unbleached flour<br />

½ teaspoon coarsely ground pepper<br />

1 teaspoon salt, divided<br />

2 tablespoons canola oil<br />

4 4-ounce salmon fillets<br />

2 tablespoons honey<br />

2 tablespoons butter<br />

4 tablespoons capers, rinsed<br />

1. For the rice: Heat oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Add onion. Bring<br />

to a sizzle, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until soft, up<br />

to 15 minutes. Add zest, stock, and salt, and bring to a boil over<br />

high heat. Add rice, return to a boil, and cover tightly before<br />

reducing heat to low. Cook 40 to 50 minutes, until all liquids<br />

are absorbed. Remove from heat and fold in spinach and lemon<br />

juice. Cover 3 to 5 minutes to wilt spinach. Serve hot.<br />

2. For the salmon with sauce: While rice is cooking, use a chef’s<br />

knife to remove peel and pith from 2 blood oranges. Cut into<br />

round slices. Using the tip of a paring knife, pick out any seeds.<br />

Zest and juice remaining oranges and reserve.<br />

3. In a pie pan or on a plate, mix flour, pepper, and half of salt.<br />

Coat salmon with mixture.<br />

4. In a large sauté pan, heat oil until shimmering. Place salmon<br />

skin side up in hot oil. Cook 1 minute, carefully flip, and cook 2 to<br />

3 minutes for thin fillets, 3 to 4 minutes longer for thicker ones.<br />

When cooked through, remove to a plate and cover loosely to<br />

keep warm.<br />

5. Wipe out pan and return to heat. Add blood-orange juice, zest,<br />

honey, and remaining salt. Swirl and stir until juice cooks down<br />

to a syrupy consistency. Swirl in butter. Add orange slices and<br />

capers, and warm gently. Serve each salmon filet on ¾ cup rice,<br />

topped with orange slices and blood-orange sauce.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 23

Lemon-Raspberry Coffeecake<br />

with Mandarin-Orange Sauce<br />

Makes 9 servings<br />

Brighten your day with this tender, tangy cake studded with<br />

red raspberries and drizzled with orange sauce. Serve it for<br />

breakfast or a snack with coffee, tea, or a glass of cold milk.<br />

Coffeecake<br />

1½ cups unbleached flour<br />

1 teaspoon baking powder<br />

½ teaspoon baking soda<br />

½ teaspoon salt<br />

½ cup butter, chilled and divided<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

1 large egg<br />

1¼ cups plain yogurt<br />

1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />

1 teaspoon vanilla<br />

1 tablespoon lemon zest<br />

2 cups raspberries<br />

¼ cup turbinado sugar<br />

Sauce<br />

1 cup tangerine juice<br />

1 teaspoon tangerine zest<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

¹⁄8 teaspoon salt<br />

2 tablespoons orange liqueur (optional)<br />

¼ cup water<br />

2 tablespoons cornstarch<br />

2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />

1. For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-inch square baking<br />

pan.<br />

2. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda,<br />

and salt.<br />

3. In a stand mixer or large bowl using an electric mixer, beat<br />

butter and sugar until light, scraping down 2 or 3 times. Beat<br />

in egg. In a glass measuring cup, combine yogurt, lemon juice,<br />

and vanilla, add half of yogurt mixture, and beat in. Add a third<br />

of flour mixture, beat in, beat in remaining yogurt mixture, and<br />

then beat in remaining flour mixture. Scrape down and stir until<br />

smooth but don't over-beat. Fold in the lemon zest.<br />

4. Scrape mixture into pan and top with berries, lightly patting<br />

into batter. Sprinkle turbinado sugar over cake. Bake 30 to 35<br />

minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.<br />

Cool in pan 10 minutes before slicing.<br />

5. For the sauce: In a 1-quart pan, combine juice, zest, sugar,<br />

and salt. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil and cook just<br />

until sugar dissolves. Add orange liqueur and stir. In a cup, whisk<br />

together water and cornstarch, and whisk into bubbling juices.<br />

Whisk until sauce is thickened and shiny. Remove from heat<br />

and whisk in butter.<br />

6. Serve slices of cake drizzled with sauce.<br />

Lemon Pudding and<br />

Lime Curd Parfaits<br />

Makes 5 servings<br />

A parfait is best when built with complementary textures and<br />

flavors, layered to provide maximum excitement. These deliver,<br />

with creamy, mildly lemony pudding; tangy lime curd; and soft,<br />

sweet whipped cream. To save time, make the pudding and<br />

curd up to three days ahead and assemble up to two days before<br />

serving, topping with whipped cream just before serving.<br />

Pudding<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

¼ cup cornstarch<br />

2 cups whole milk or half-and-half<br />

1 pinch salt<br />

¼ cup fresh lemon juice<br />

2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />

1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest, finely grated<br />

Curd<br />

½ cup fresh lime juice<br />

½ cup sugar<br />

3 large eggs<br />

4 tablespoons butter, diced<br />

2 teaspoons fresh lime zest<br />

Whipped Cream<br />

½ cup heavy cream<br />

2 tablespoons powdered sugar<br />

½ teaspoon vanilla<br />

1. For the pudding: In a 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan,<br />

whisk together sugar, cornstarch, milk, and salt until cornstarch<br />

is dissolved. Place over medium heat. Whisk constantly until<br />

pudding thickens. Let mixture start to bubble then remove from<br />

heat. Whisk in lemon juice, butter, and zest, and transfer to a<br />

bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap onto surface of<br />

pudding, and chill.<br />

2. For the curd: Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl. In<br />

a 1- or 2-quart, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together lime<br />

juice, sugar, and egg. Stir in butter. Place over medium-low heat,<br />

and whisk constantly until mixture becomes thick enough to<br />

coat back of a spoon, taking care not to let it boil. Remove from<br />

heat and pour through sieve, using a rubber spatula to force it<br />

through. Use spatula to scrape curd from bottom of sieve into<br />

bowl. Stir in lime zest and cover with plastic wrap, pressing<br />

wrap onto surface of curd. Chill.<br />

3. In 5 wine glasses or dessert bowls that will hold 1 cup, scoop<br />

¼ cup pudding and top with 2 tablespoons curd, dropping along<br />

edge of glass so it will show from side. Top with another ¼ cup<br />

pudding then 2 more tablespoons curd. Parfaits can be chilled,<br />

covered with plastic wrap, up to 2 days. Serve cold.<br />

4. For the whipped cream: In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment<br />

or large bowl with an electric mixer, combine cream,<br />

powdered sugar, and vanilla. Turn mixer to high and beat until<br />

cream is fluffy and holds soft peaks. Top each parfait with<br />

3 tablespoons whipped cream just before serving. <br />

24 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

leMon-raspBerry CoffeeCake with<br />

ManDarin-orange sauCe anD leMon<br />

puDDing anD liMe CurD parfaits<br />





per serving: Calories 286 (169<br />

from fat); fat 20g (sat. 3g); Chol 0mg;<br />

soDiuM 244mg; CarB 29g; fiBer 8g;<br />

protein 3g<br />



per serving: Calories 701 (238 from<br />

fat); fat 27g (sat. 7g); Chol 80mg;<br />

soDiuM 1331mg; CarB 84g; fiBer 12g;<br />

protein 35g<br />



per serving: Calories 369 (127 from<br />

fat); fat 14g (sat. 9g); Chol 57mg;<br />

soDiuM 410mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 3g;<br />

protein 5g<br />



per serving: Calories 498 (244 from<br />

fat); fat 28g (sat. 16g); Chol 185mg;<br />

soDiuM 199mg; CarB 57g; fiBer 0g;<br />

protein 8g<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 25

Spirited<br />

Dishes<br />

Cooking grows up with the addition of a little alcohol.<br />

by Serena Bass<br />

Photography Terry Brennan<br />

Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />

26 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

C<br />

hicken fingers and PBJs can hit the spot, but every now and<br />

then, it is exhilarating to act like a grownup and start splashing<br />

some alcohol around in the kitchen. Whether you turn to wine,<br />

beer, or spirits, any form of alcohol can improve a dish’s depth of<br />

flavor and lend a shot of sophistication.<br />

These recipes include a variety of alcohol, from Belgian white<br />

beer used straight in a vinaigrette to powerful French Armagnac<br />

flambéed then soothed with cream and apple cider. When you’re<br />

sautéing with rich fats like duck fat, goose fat, or butter, wine<br />

or spirits lend some acidic balance. Hard liquor, like bourbon<br />

and rum, have a wonderful lingering perfume even when<br />

the alcohol content is mostly cooked away.<br />

When cooking with a red wine, use something full-bodied,<br />

like a Shiraz or Zinfandel; dry red wine can often be too<br />

harsh. For a white wine, choose something fragrant, like<br />

a Sauvignon Blanc. If you’ve never used alcohol in your<br />

cooking, now is the time to start.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 27

28 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />

Pasta with Spicy Sausage,<br />

Vodka, and Baby Peas

Pasta with Spicy Sausage, Vodka,<br />

and Baby Peas<br />

Makes 8 to 10 servings<br />

This is a wonderfully adaptable recipe. I occasionally up the pepper flakes and<br />

add a couple cups of chopped sweet red peppers with the onions. I’ve used all<br />

marinara sauce and no cream, or subbed in oregano and thyme for the rosemary.<br />

You can make it your own. Invest in high-quality vodka, as cheaper stuff can<br />

taste harsh. Use a stainless-steel saucepan with high sides; the sausage won’t break<br />

up well in a nonstick pan and will just keep sliding around. This sauce freezes<br />

particularly well, so I always make more than needed and then have a great treat<br />

for a midweek dinner, ready in minutes.<br />

2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />

1 cup yellow onion, cut in ½-inch dice<br />

3 tablespoons chopped garlic<br />

½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste<br />

2 tablespoons minced lemon zest, removed with a peeler<br />

3 pounds spicy Italian sausage, casing removed<br />

1 cup Absolut Peppar vodka<br />

2 tablespoons minced rosemary<br />

2 cups heavy cream<br />

2 cups marinara sauce<br />

¼ cup per person frozen baby green peas (see note for freezing)<br />

orecchiette or medium shell pasta<br />

1. Melt butter, add onion, and cook over medium heat 8 minutes, until translucent.<br />

Add garlic, pepper flakes, and lemon zest, and gently sauté 1 minute. Crumble<br />

in sausage, breaking up against side of pan and chopping with a heavy wooden<br />

spoon until the sausage is broken up and there's hardly any pink left. This can<br />

take 10 minutes.<br />

2. Add vodka and cook 3 minutes. Add rosemary, cream, and marinara. Stir to<br />

mix and bring to a simmer. Cover, adjust heat so sauce just simmers, and cook<br />

45 minutes.<br />

3. If not serving entire recipe immediately, remove excess to a sealed container<br />

and freeze.<br />

4. Just before serving, add the uncooked, defrosted peas, and stir; they will cook<br />

quickly in the heat of the sauce and give a wonderful pop of sweetness.<br />

Ideally, serve with orecchiette or medium shells to capture the creamy sauce.<br />

»For freezing: Peas are added just before serving so if you plan to freeze some<br />

of this dish, do not add peas and wait until serving. Calculate only the ¼ cup peas<br />

per person for what you plan to use right away.<br />

Is There Still Alcohol<br />

in that Dish?<br />

The addition of alcohol gives many<br />

dishes a wonderful, aromatic<br />

punch, but it may not be for everyone.<br />

I long assumed that virtually<br />

all the alcohol would cook out of<br />

a dish once it has been variously<br />

simmered, boiled, or flambéed.<br />

In fact this is far from true; different<br />

modes and lengths of cooking<br />

present different results.<br />

In <strong>real</strong>ity, the amount of alcohol<br />

remaining after cooking ranges<br />

from 5 to 85 percent, according to<br />

a study from the U.S. Department<br />

of Agriculture's Nutrient Data<br />

Laboratory. And the variations<br />

aren’t just dependent on how long<br />

you keep the temperature above<br />

173°F, alcohol’s boiling point.<br />

The size of the cooking vessel<br />

greatly affects the alcohol-retention<br />

rate; the smaller the vessel,<br />

the more alcohol is retained due<br />

to the reduced surface area for<br />

evaporation.<br />

This study revealed that alcohol<br />

content diminishes with<br />

cooking time. After liquor has<br />

been poured on <strong>food</strong>s and then<br />

set alight—flambéed—approximately<br />

75 percent of the alcohol<br />

remains after the flames have died<br />

down. After being added to <strong>food</strong><br />

that is then baked or simmered<br />

for 15 minutes, 40 percent of the<br />

alcohol will be retained. After<br />

cooking for an hour, about 25<br />

percent will remain. The lowest<br />

percentage of alcohol left after<br />

cooking—around 5 percent—is in<br />

stews that are cooked at least 2½<br />

hours. The amount of alcohol in an<br />

individual serving will be quite low,<br />

but keep these highlights in mind if<br />

alcohol is a concern to you or your<br />

dinner guests.<br />

For more information, visit<br />

nutrition-profiles.com and click<br />

on “Cooking with Alcohol.”<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 29

Chicken Breast with<br />

Calvados and Apples<br />

30 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Chicken Breast with<br />

Calvados and Apples<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

This looks like a long recipe, but it just has a few specific parts. It is hardly<br />

a slimming dish, mainly because it is derived from an ancient French<br />

recipe from Normandy. That particular area of France is the epicenter of<br />

exquisite butter and cream, delicious tart yet sweet apples, and Calvados,<br />

a fortified apple brandy. The original recipe uses pheasant, and everything<br />

is braised for hours. I have modernized the method with no reduction in<br />

flavor using easily found ingredients. Use organic chicken and cream, and<br />

high-quality butter.<br />

4 skinless boneless organic chicken breasts<br />

6 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />

4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice<br />

¼ cup Calvados or cognac<br />

4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, quartered,<br />

and cut into 12 wedges<br />

2 cups cloudy apple cider<br />

2 cups organic heavy cream<br />

2 cups homemade chicken stock (not reduced-sodium)<br />

1. Fold each chicken breast in a paper towel and, using a heavy pan, smash<br />

thick end a few times to equalize thickness. Dust both sides well with salt<br />

and freshly ground black pepper.<br />

2. Melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a heavy sauté pan that<br />

will hold chicken in an even layer. When butter stops sizzling, increase<br />

heat to medium-high and add chicken. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, turning every<br />

2 minutes.<br />

3. Halfway through, add lemon juice, which will sizzle and evaporate. The<br />

steam will help cook the chicken, and the flavor will balance the richness.<br />

When chicken is nearly done (cut the breast to check for a little bit of uncooked<br />

chicken), turn off heat.<br />

4. In a small pan, warm Calvados over medium-low heat 1 minute to cook<br />

off some of the alcohol. Using a long taper or lighter, light Calvados in pan<br />

and pour over chicken with 1 circular movement. Shake pan and be brave;<br />

the flames will dissipate after several seconds. Using a heatproof rubber<br />

spatula, remove chicken and juices to a rimmed plate.<br />

5. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in sauté pan. Add apples, dust with<br />

salt and freshly ground black pepper, and sauté over medium-high heat<br />

8 minutes, flipping occasionally, until they just start to caramelize. Reduce<br />

heat if they start to burn. Scrape apples onto plate with chicken.<br />

6. Pour cider, cream, and stock into pan. Bring to a boil and cook 15 minutes,<br />

scraping edges occasionally, until sauce is slightly thickened. Turn off heat.<br />

7. Add chicken, apples, and juices, and warm over low heat. If not serving<br />

immediately, transfer to an ovenproof serving dish and set aside unrefrigerated<br />

up to 4 hours. Reheat in a 300°F oven 20 to 25 minutes; sauce shouldn’t<br />

come anywhere near boiling. Serve with celery-root mash and steamed haricots<br />

verts.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 31

Marinade with Dark Sherry,<br />

Orange, and Chilies<br />

Makes 2 cups<br />

This marinade is wonderful with steak, chicken breasts or thighs, or pork chops<br />

on the bone. Just marinate for 2 hours and grill or pan sear to your liking. It<br />

has an Asian influence and pairs well with a quick vegetable stir-fry and some<br />

chewy short-grain brown rice with a handful of chopped cilantro and mint.<br />

Be sure to use dark sweet sherry (Harveys Bristol Cream is my favorite).<br />

3 tablespoons dark sherry<br />

3 packed tablespoons dark brown sugar<br />

½ cup vegetable oil<br />

²⁄3 cup soy sauce<br />

2 tablespoons fresh ginger, peeled and grated<br />

2 teaspoons crushed garlic<br />

1 tablespoon grated orange zest<br />

1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or more to taste<br />

¼ cup scallions, green and white parts finely minced<br />

1. Whisk together all ingredients in a bowl. This will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.<br />

32 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

» Pepper Tip I have a grinding<br />

trick! Try grinding 10 times on<br />

your mill and see how much of a<br />

teaspoon you have. Mine grinds<br />

½ teaspoon; yours might deliver<br />

more or less. Then you’ll never<br />

have to grind and measure again,<br />

you’ll just do 10 grinds and know<br />

you have the ½, or ¼-teaspoon<br />

you need.<br />

White Beer Dressing<br />

Makes 1¹⁄8 cups<br />

You can use any pale beer here, such as Stella Artois,<br />

Amstel, or Heineken Light but the Hoegaarden has a<br />

little sweetness that I like. The amount of pepper might<br />

seem scary but as long as you use freshly ground pepper<br />

on a coarse grind, the balance is perfect. Do not use<br />

pre-ground or it will be much too strong and lack the<br />

instant flavor that only comes from your peppermill.<br />

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar<br />

1 teaspoon minced garlic<br />

¼ cup white beer, such as Hoegaarden<br />

2 teaspoons salt<br />

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper<br />

½ cup heavy cream<br />

¼ cup homemade mayonnaise (recipe right)<br />

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together vinegar, garlic, beer,<br />

salt, and pepper. Whisk in cream and mayonnaise. This<br />

will keep for 2 days, refrigerated.<br />

Homemade Mayonnaise<br />

Makes 1¾ cups<br />

This is the best mayonnaise—and great to have<br />

on hand for sandwiches or dips.<br />

1 extra large egg<br />

1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar<br />

1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard<br />

½ teaspoon salt<br />

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 large clove garlic, peeled<br />

1½ cups vegetable oil<br />

1. Combine all ingredients except oil in bowl of a<br />

<strong>food</strong> processor and blend 30 seconds.<br />

2. Slowly add oil through feed tube while processing.<br />

Mayonnaise should be very thick.<br />

3. Transfer to a small sealed container and refrigerate<br />

up to 1 week.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 33

34 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />

chocolate filling and<br />

Chocolate Tart

Chocolate Tart<br />

Makes 8 serVings<br />

This is a great recipe for those among us who have pastry<br />

phobia or pastry impatience (I have yeast phobia, so I understand).<br />

The end result is so ridiculously delicious that you will<br />

feel vindicated in the effort you have made. If all the steps<br />

are making your eyes roll, skip the pastry and just make the<br />

filling (see recipe right).<br />

tart shell<br />

1¼ cups heckers or king arthur all-purpose flour<br />

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and<br />

cut into ½-inch pieces<br />

¾ teaspoon kosher salt<br />

¼ cup iced water<br />

1. Place flour, butter, and salt in bowl of a <strong>food</strong> processor and<br />

pulse 10 times. Pour in water and pulse 8 times.<br />

2. Let damp crumbs sit 5 minutes, tip into a sealable plastic<br />

bag, and gently but firmly form a ¾-inch-thick disk. Refrigerate<br />

dough at least 2 hours or overnight.<br />

3. Remove dough from refrigerator and leave at room temperature<br />

15 minutes, until just pliable but still cool. Roll out to<br />

a 12-inch circle and, making sure it’s centered, drape over a<br />

9½-inch tart pan with removable base.<br />

4. Lift up pastry and ease it down into corner of pan, pushing<br />

it in with a knuckle then pressing in gently but firmly with your<br />

thumb against the vertical side. This will give you a strong<br />

pastry wall to hold the filling.<br />

5. Run a rolling pin over top of pan to cut off excess pastry. Dock<br />

the base several times with a fork. Place shell, uncovered, in<br />

freezer 30 minutes.<br />

6. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 425°F.<br />

Remove shell from freezer and line with aluminum foil, allowing<br />

3 extra inches on each side. Tuck foil into corners well and<br />

fill ½ inch deep with pie weights or dried beans.<br />

7. Bake 20 minutes, remove foil, and bake 10 minutes uncovered,<br />

until there are no uncooked patches and pastry is golden<br />

brown. When removing from oven, wait 10 seconds to let foil<br />

cool. You can then pick it up by the four corners with your bare<br />

hands; just avoid the beans as they will be hot.<br />

8. Shell can be baked a day ahead, left in pan to cool, and filled<br />

and baked the next day. Just wrap with plastic wrap when shell<br />

is totally cold and store unrefrigerated.<br />

9. For the tart filling: Reduce the oven heat to 350°F. Pour the<br />

filling into the shell and bake for 10 minutes if the shell is warm<br />

and 12 minutes if the shell is cool. Remove the tart from the<br />

oven (the center will still be jiggly), and allow to cool without<br />

refrigerating. Serve warm or at room temperature.<br />

Chocolate Tart Filling<br />

Makes 6 serVings in cocotte dishes<br />

Makes enough filling for 2 tarts<br />

for tart: Just use half and freeZe the Balance; it freeZes<br />

Perfectly for at least 2 Months.<br />

This is simplicity at its finest and creates a sensation! I used to<br />

make pastry, let it rest, roll it out, freeze it, fill it with beans,<br />

bake blind, and eventually pour in this fantastic, rich, chocolaty<br />

filling before bake the whole thing. Sometimes faux dieters<br />

would scrape the filling off, eat the chocolate part, and leave<br />

the hours-of-effort shell. Eventually I decided to make double<br />

the filling and just bake it in cocotte dishes like a chocolate<br />

pudding.<br />

16 tablespoons (2 sticks), unsalted butter cut<br />

into tablespoon slices<br />

1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels<br />

1 cup bittersweet chocolate morsels<br />

2 tablespoons Medaglia d’oro espresso powder<br />

4 extra large eggs<br />

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar<br />

¼ cup whiskey, bourbon, or Myers’s dark rum<br />

2 tablespoons flour<br />

2 tablespoons droste dutch process<br />

or ghirardelli cocoa<br />

1½ teaspoons kosher salt<br />

1. Butter 6, ½-cup, ovenproof cocotte dishes. Position a rack<br />

in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F.<br />

2. Put butter, chocolate, and espresso powder in a medium<br />

saucepan over low heat and stir until just melted.<br />

3. In a deep, medium bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, and<br />

alcohol very well. Sift in flour, cocoa, and salt, and gently whisk<br />

together. Add chocolate mixture and stir to incorporate.<br />

4. Using a ¹⁄2 cup measuring cup, carefully fill each cocotte dish.<br />

Bake 15 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving warm with<br />

whipped heavy cream or ice cream. ■<br />



Per serVing: calories 650 (450 from<br />

fat); fat 50g (sat. 23g); chol 129mg;<br />

sodiuM 1575mg; carB 20g; fiBer 3g;<br />

Protein 25g<br />



Per serVing: calories 861 (531 from<br />

fat); fat 60g (sat. 36g); chol 280mg;<br />

sodiuM 571mg; carB 39g; fiBer 2g;<br />

Protein 41g<br />


Per serVing: calories 88 (79 from<br />

fat); fat 9g (sat. 3g); chol 17mg;<br />

sodiuM 564mg;carB 1g; fiBer 0g;<br />

Protein 0g<br />


Per serVing: calories 473 (285 from<br />

fat); fat 32g (sat. 20g); chol 114mg;<br />

sodiuM 356mg; carB 42g; fiBer 3g;<br />

Protein 6g<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 35

istro<br />

brunch<br />

Add a French accent to your leisurely<br />

and satisfying midday meal—c’est magnifique!<br />

by jason ross<br />

Photography Terry Brennan<br />

Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />

36 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Clafouti with Crème Fraîche<br />

Whipped Cream (recipe page 43) and<br />

Café Da (recipe page 38)<br />

Brunch is a conscious decision to dine during what would otherwise<br />

be the most productive parts of the day. It is leisurely, slow, and<br />

decadent. If there’s a meal when diners ignore their diets and eat to<br />

their hearts’ desire, it’s brunch. Maybe that’s why we love it so much<br />

and why restaurants offering a good brunch have lines out the door.<br />

French bistro dishes fit the image of a leisurely, satisfying brunch:<br />

a change from hash browns to Pommes Anna, from pancakes to Berry<br />

Clafouti, from eggs and toast to Croque Madame, from vegetables<br />

sides to Poached Leeks, and from coffee and cream to icy Café Da.<br />

Isn’t that a little indulgent, you might ask? Yes. Yes it is.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 37

Café Da<br />

Makes 1 serving<br />

On the streets of Saigon, men<br />

hide from the heat of the day<br />

in hammocks and sip iced milk<br />

coffee, an enduring legacy of the<br />

coffee-drinking French colonizers.<br />

To make a true Vietnamese<br />

ca phe sua da, you need a special<br />

steel filter that slowly drips thick<br />

coffee through a compressed<br />

space. This version uses espresso<br />

sweetened with condensed milk<br />

and a full glass of ice to reproduce<br />

the feeling of luxuriously sipping<br />

coffee, hiding from the world if<br />

for only a few minutes.<br />

nearly 2 cups ice<br />

¼ cup sweetened<br />

condensed milk,<br />

or to taste<br />

1 shot hot espresso<br />

1. Fill 1 tall glass with ice. Pour<br />

milk into a cup or glass large<br />

enough to hold milk and espresso.<br />

Add more milk for a lighter,<br />

sweeter drink and less for darker<br />

with bitter hints.<br />

2. Add enough hot water to<br />

espresso to total just more than<br />

½ cup. Pour over milk and stir until<br />

fully incorporated. Pour over ice<br />

and stir to chill before serving.<br />

Poached Leeks with Mustard Vinaigrette<br />

Makes 6 servings<br />

This salad could work as a satisfying light meal with a bit of crusty baguette. As part<br />

of the brunch, the cutting acidity of the vinaigrette helps even out an otherwise rich<br />

midday meal.<br />

Cook the leeks well, until they are fully tender and offer no resistance to the tip of<br />

a knife. Leeks can feel soft when warm, only to firm up and feel crunchy and raw as<br />

they cool and the starches solidify. While the leeks will keep up to a week refrigerated<br />

with some of the poaching liquid, they are best served within a day. After that,<br />

some of the flavor and color diminish over time. You may find you have to remove<br />

the outermost layer if it becomes tough and dry. Before serving, allow the leeks to<br />

come to room temperature.<br />

3 medium leeks<br />

2 tablespoons salt<br />

1 tablespoon wine vinegar<br />

½ teaspoon black peppercorns<br />

2 bay leaves<br />

1 tablespoon lemon juice<br />

3 cups mache or other young salad greens<br />

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and roughly chopped<br />

¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano<br />

Vinaigrette<br />

½ clove garlic, minced<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

2 tablespoons minced shallots<br />

2 tablespoons champagne vinegar<br />

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard<br />

½ cup vegetable oil<br />

¼ cup finely minced parsley<br />

freshly ground pepper to taste<br />

1. To prepare leeks, cut off dark green leaves. Make an incision at cut end and split<br />

down about 2 inches from top but not all the way to root. Rinse well to remove any dirt<br />

embedded in the layers. Trim root end of any dirt or dangling strands, but leave enough<br />

root intact to hold together leek as it cooks.<br />

2. In a pot large enough to hold leeks, combine salt, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaves,<br />

and lemon juice with 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Add leeks, and reduce heat to a<br />

simmer. Add extra water if needed to cover the leeks, along with an extra pinch of salt<br />

and dash of vinegar. The poaching liquid should taste piquant, salty, and acidic. Cook<br />

for roughly 30 minutes, until leeks are tender. Check for doneness by piercing thickest<br />

part of leek with a paring knife; it should offer no resistance and no longer feel fibrous.<br />

Remove leeks to a bowl to cool to room temperature.<br />

3. For the vinaigrette: In a deep bowl, whisk together garlic, salt, shallots, vinegar, and<br />

mustard. Drizzle oil in slowly while whisking to create a smooth, thickened sauce. If<br />

vinaigrette is still acidic, add a few drops water and whisk in more oil until it tastes<br />

balanced. Add parsley as well as black pepper and salt to taste. Vinaigrette will keep,<br />

refrigerated, up to 1 week but may take on strong flavors from garlic.<br />

4. To serve, toss greens with vinaigrette and place in a neat mound in center of six plates.<br />

Slice leeks lengthwise and coat with some vinaigrette. Serve ½ leek per plate. Finish<br />

salads with egg, Pecorino Romano, and some fresh cracked black pepper, drizzling on<br />

more vinaigrette if desired.<br />

38 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Poached Leeks with<br />

Mustard Vinaigrette<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 39

Croque Madame<br />

40 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Croque Madame<br />

Makes 6 servings<br />

Imagine the perfect, over-the-top grilled cheese<br />

sandwich and you have the Croque Madame.<br />

Use béchamel to hold the sandwich together<br />

along with the best alpine-style cheese you can<br />

find. Add a few slices of ham. And top it all off<br />

with a golden fried egg for the ultimate brunch<br />

indulgence.<br />

Béchamel<br />

4 tablespoons butter<br />

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour<br />

4 cups whole milk<br />

small pinch nutmeg<br />

salt and freshly ground white pepper<br />

to taste<br />

12 slices white bread<br />

1¼ to 1½ pounds grated Gruyère or<br />

other melting cheese<br />

6 slices ham large enough to cover bread<br />

butter<br />

6 eggs<br />

1. For the béchamel: Melt butter in a medium,<br />

heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add flour and whisk<br />

1 to 2 minutes, until smooth but not browned.<br />

Slowly whisk in milk.<br />

2. Cook 15 to 30 minutes, stirring with a wooden<br />

spoon, until sauce is thickened and coats a spoon<br />

well, taking care not to let it scorch.<br />

3. Add nutmeg as well as salt and freshly ground<br />

white pepper to taste. Cool and refrigerate up<br />

to 1 week.<br />

4. Preheat oven to 425°F. In warming oven, lightly<br />

toast bread to dry out without browning, flipping<br />

to dry both sides. Let cool to room temperature.<br />

5. Spread béchamel onto both sides of bread.<br />

Sprinkle roughly ¹⁄3 of cheese on top. Place ham<br />

on top and sprinkle on another ¹⁄3 of cheese. Top<br />

with remaining bread. Coat top of sandwich<br />

with béchamel again. Sprinkle on last of cheese.<br />

Sandwiches can be prepared a day in advance<br />

and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature<br />

before cooking.<br />

6. Transfer to a tray lined with parchment or wax<br />

paper and bake 20 to 30 minutes, until cheese<br />

and béchamel are fully melted, hot, and dark<br />

golden brown.<br />

7. When nearly done, heat a sauté pan with butter<br />

and cook 6 sunny-side-up eggs seasoned with<br />

salt and black pepper. Top finished sandwiches<br />

with eggs. Serve with a fork and steak knife as<br />

this hot sandwich is not easy to handle.<br />

Pommes Anna<br />

Makes 6 servings<br />

Think of these as French hash browns. In typical French fashion,<br />

Pommes Anna carry a heavy dose of butter. To lighten the flavor and<br />

reduce the need for an after-brunch nap, this recipe employs olive oil.<br />

¹⁄3 cup olive oil<br />

3 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes<br />

salt and pepper to taste<br />

1 tablespoon minced parsley<br />

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut a piece of parchment or wax paper to line<br />

bottom of a medium, ovenproof sauté pan. Brush both sides of paper<br />

with oil and press into pan.<br />

2. Using a mandolin, <strong>food</strong> processor with slicer attachment, or knife,<br />

cut potatoes into ¹⁄8-inch slices. It is important to assemble the Pommes<br />

Anna quickly after the potatoes are cut or they will turn brown. Don’t<br />

soak them as the potato starch will rinse off and the slices won’t stick<br />

together to form a cake.<br />

3. Starting in center of pan, arrange potatoes in an overlapping circle.<br />

Season with salt and pepper, and brush with oil. Repeat to create 5 to<br />

6 layers, seasoning and oiling each layer, for a nearly full pan. Using the heel<br />

of your hand, push potatoes firmly into pan to help them stick together.<br />

4. Cook over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until oil starts to sizzle<br />

and potatoes begin to brown. Transfer to oven and bake 40 minutes.<br />

Potatoes should be tender and browned, and should yield easily to a<br />

toothpick or thin knife.<br />

5. Using a spatula to hold potatoes in place, tip pan to carefully drain<br />

any excess fat into a bowl. Cover pan with a plate. Hold pan with a<br />

heatproof glove or folded towel in one hand and plate in the other. Invert<br />

potatoes onto plate. Serve cut into wedges with cracked pepper and<br />

minced parsley.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 41

Clafouti with Crème fraîChe<br />

whipped Cream<br />


CAFÉ DA:<br />

per serving: Calories 246<br />

(59 from fat); fat 7g (sat. 4g);<br />

Chol 26mg; sodium 118mg;<br />

CarB 42g; fiBer 0g;<br />

protein 6g<br />



per serving: Calories 236<br />

(191 from fat); fat 22g (sat.<br />

4g); Chol 67mg; sodium<br />

771mg; CarB 7g; fiBer 1g;<br />

protein 5g<br />


per serving: Calories 863<br />

(490 from fat); fat 55g (sat.<br />

30g); Chol 350mg; sodium<br />

1303mg; CarB 38g; fiBer 2g;<br />

protein 51g<br />


per serving: Calories 276<br />

(107 from fat); fat 12g (sat.<br />

2g); Chol 0mg; sodium<br />

19mg; CarB 39g; fiBer 4g;<br />

protein 5g<br />



per serving: Calories 372<br />

(246 from fat); fat 28g (sat.<br />

15g); Chol 129mg; sodium<br />

75mg; CarB 26g; fiBer 3g;<br />

protein 6g<br />

42 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Clafouti with Crème Fraîche<br />

Whipped Cream<br />

Makes 8 servings<br />

Clafouti straddles the line between thick pancake and sweet omelet. It can<br />

be dressed up or down depending on presentation. Clafouti is cooked and<br />

served in the same vessel. If you have a casserole pan you love or a great<br />

cast-iron pan, this is the time to use it. In this recipe, blackberries replace<br />

the more traditional cherries.<br />

10 ounces blackberries<br />

2 tablespoons sugar, divided<br />

1 to 2 tablespoons butter<br />

powdered sugar<br />

Custard<br />

1½ cups heavy cream<br />

1 tablespoon brandy or Grand Marnier<br />

½ teaspoon almond extract<br />

½ cup all-purpose flour<br />

½ cup almond flour<br />

¼ cup sugar<br />

pinch salt<br />

2 eggs<br />

powdered sugar, for serving<br />

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter an attractive, medium, oven-safe pan and<br />

sprinkle in 1 tablespoon sugar to coat. This will help the clafouti rise, like a<br />

soufflé, and give its edges nice caramel flavor.<br />

2. Toss blackberries with 1 tablespoon sugar to coat and set aside. Blackberries<br />

should soften and release some liquid.<br />

3. For the custard: In a bowl or liquid measuring cup, combine cream, brandy,<br />

and almond extract. In a separate bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour,<br />

almond flour, sugar, and salt.<br />

4. In a blender, processor, or bowl, whisk together eggs, wet ingredients,<br />

and dry ingredients until smooth.<br />

5. Place blackberries in pan, filling evenly. Pour over batter. Bake 45 minutes,<br />

rotating pan halfway through cooking time. Cook until a toothpick inserted into<br />

thickest section comes out clean and batter seems solid. The clafouti will puff<br />

up as it cooks, like a soufflé, then settle into a thick pancake when it cools.<br />

6. Serve the same day warm or at room temperature, but not hot out of<br />

the oven, with a dusting of powdered sugar and spoonful of Crème Fraîche<br />

Whipped Cream.<br />

Crème Fraîche Whipped Cream<br />

Makes 1½ to 2 cups<br />

¾ cup heavy cream<br />

2 tablespoons sugar<br />

½ teaspoon vanilla<br />

¼ cup crème fraîche<br />

1. In a bowl or mixer, whip cream with sugar and vanilla until thick and soft<br />

peaks form when pulled from whisk. Spoon in crème fraîche and mix together.<br />

The extra fat from the crème fraîche helps stabilize the whipped cream<br />

and it will keep, refrigerated, up to 3 days. <br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 43

Fragrant Chicken<br />

Coconut Curry with<br />

Green Beans and<br />

Sweet Potatoes<br />

(recipe page 46)<br />

Photography Terry Brennan<br />

Food Styling lara miklasevics<br />

44 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

terrific<br />

turmeric<br />

Want to know the new star in the spice universe?<br />

It’s turmeric, a knotty rhizome (or underground stem), cousin<br />

to ginger, and native to India, where it grows wild in the forests<br />

and other parts of Southeast Asia. Turmeric plays a commanding<br />

role in Indian cuisine and has been prescribed by Ayurvedic doctors<br />

for thousands of years for a host of maladies, from stomach<br />

and liver ailments to the aches and pains of rheumatism and<br />

arthritis. Ground turmeric is also used in facemasks that cleanse<br />

and disinfect without stripping the skin’s natural oils.<br />

Western researchers first recognized the spice’s value a number<br />

of years ago for its renowned anti-inflammatory and antioxidant<br />

properties, but recently it has come to the attention of<br />

cancer researchers. The active ingredient, curcumin, which also<br />

provides the spice’s yellow color, may have powerful anti-cancer<br />

properties. In a recent study, curcumin also held promise in<br />

reducing the effects of aging in fruit flies, which have a genetic<br />

profile similar to that of humans.<br />

Cooks mainly know it as the spice in curry that gives it its<br />

golden color, but as you will see, turmeric is a remarkably versatile<br />

seasoning that can be added to fruit smoothies and fragrant<br />

desserts. Authorities suggest adding a little ground black pepper<br />

to increase its health-giving benefits.<br />

by Nina Simonds<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 45

Fragrant Chicken Coconut Curry with<br />

Green Beans and Sweet Potatoes<br />

Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />

This chicken curry tastes quite different and subtler than a typical<br />

curry since the spices are freshly ground and no curry powder is used.<br />

I serve it with steamed rice and a simple yogurt raita.<br />

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />

4 chicken legs, separated into thighs and drumsticks, rinsed,<br />

and dried with paper towels<br />

2 medium sweet potatoes<br />

3 medium onions, peeled and julienned<br />

2 tablespoons rice wine or sake<br />

1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, seeded and diced with juice<br />

1 13.5-ounce can light unsweetened coconut milk<br />

1½ tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar<br />

2½ tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste<br />

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to taste<br />

4 cups green beans, rinsed, drained, and if long, halved<br />

diagonally along the length<br />

Seasonings<br />

2 small jalapeños, trimmed and seeded<br />

3 stalks lemongrass, ends trimmed to tender heart, tough<br />

outer stalks removed, and cut into chunks, or grated peel<br />

of 1 lemon<br />

8 cloves garlic<br />

1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped<br />

1 tablespoon ground cumin<br />

1 tablespoon ground coriander<br />

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric<br />

1. Heat a Dutch oven or large casserole with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil<br />

over medium-high heat until very hot. Arrange chicken skin side down<br />

and fry for 5-6 minutes, until golden brown. Using tongs, turn the pieces<br />

over and sear another 5-6 minutes until golden brown. Drain on a paper<br />

towel. Cover to prevent oil splatter and cook in batches if necessary.<br />

2. For the seasonings: While chicken is cooking, drop ingredients in<br />

descending order down the feed tube of a running <strong>food</strong> processor or<br />

blender. Pulse, scraping down sides of bowl with a spatula, to create a<br />

rough but even mixture. If lemongrass remains in large pieces, carefully<br />

scrape seasonings onto a cutting board and chop by hand.<br />

3. Peel and cut the sweet potatoes in half lengthwise, then cut each half<br />

lengthwise again. Cut each strip along the diagonal into 1½ inch pieces.<br />

4. Add remaining oil to pan and heat until very hot. Add seasonings and<br />

stir-fry over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon,<br />

3 to 4 minutes, until very fragrant.<br />

5. Add onion and stir. Add rice wine, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally,<br />

4 minutes, until onion is soft and translucent. Add tomatoes,<br />

coconut milk, and sugar, and cook, partially covered, 5 minutes.<br />

6. Add chicken, soy sauce, and lemon juice, stir, and cover. Cook 6 to<br />

7 minutes then add sweet potatoes. Cook another 25 minutes, until<br />

a knife pierced through the center of the chicken renders clear juice.<br />

Add green beans, cover, and cook 7 to 8 minutes, until tender. Season<br />

to taste and serve with steamed jasmine or basmati rice.<br />

Grilled Hanoi Turmeric Fish<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

Cha Ca La Vong is a famous Vietnamese specialty<br />

otherwise known as Hanoi Turmeric Fish with<br />

Dill. I first tasted it in Hanoi in the early 1970s, and<br />

like many others, I instantly became a fan. Traditionally<br />

a catfish is brought to the table after it has<br />

been marinated in turmeric and other spices and<br />

cooked on a charcoal brazier where it is smothered<br />

with fresh dill and served with a classic nu ’ o ´ ’ c cham ´ ˆ<br />

sauce, a Vietnamese vinaigrette. This version features<br />

halibut and fresh dill with a spicy vinaigrette.<br />

Marinade<br />

1 teaspoon sugar<br />

2½ teaspoons turmeric<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<br />

4 cloves garlic, chopped<br />

1 shallot, finely chopped<br />

Vietnamese Dressing<br />

¹⁄3 cup fish sauce, or to taste<br />

²⁄3 cup lime or lemon juice<br />

¹⁄3 cup sugar<br />

1½ tablespoons minced garlic<br />

1 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper flakes<br />

3 tablespoons water<br />

1½ pounds halibut fillet, about ¾ to 1 inch<br />

thick, sectioned and skinned<br />

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />

2 cups fresh dill, coarsely chopped<br />

2 tablespoons roasted salted peanuts,<br />

chopped (optional)<br />

1. For the marinade: In small bowl, whisk together<br />

all ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic<br />

bag, add fish, and turn bag to coat fish. Refrigerate<br />

20 minutes or longer.<br />

2. For the dressing: In medium bowl, whisk together<br />

all ingredients 2 to 3 minutes, until sugar dissolves.<br />

Set aside.<br />

3. Prepare a medium-hot fire for grilling or preheat a<br />

gas grill and arrange a rack 3 to 4 inches from heat.<br />

Brush grill with 1 tablespoon oil, arrange fish on grill,<br />

and cook, covered, 5 to 6 minutes per side, depending<br />

on thickness. To check for doneness, pierce the<br />

flesh with a sharp knife; it should be opaque all the<br />

way through. Carefully slide onto a platter.<br />

4. Heat a large skillet until hot. Brush with remaining<br />

oil over moderately high heat until very hot. Carefully<br />

place fish in pan and sprinkle with dill.<br />

5. Pour over dressing and cover 1 minute to seal in<br />

juices and wilt dill. Sprinkle with peanuts. Place on<br />

a trivet in center of table and serve from pan with a<br />

whole grain and a vegetable.<br />

46 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Grilled Hanoi<br />

Turmeric Fish<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 47

Spicy Tandoori<br />

Tofu Roll-Ups<br />

48 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

top PHOTO © Luis Santos - Fotolia.com<br />

Spicy Tandoori Tofu Roll-Ups<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

I like to make my own tandoori marinade with a blend<br />

of spices and yogurt, which tenderizes meat and sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />

This recipe uses tofu, which absorbs the flavors beautifully.<br />

You can refrigerate and refreeze the marinade in its<br />

sealable plastic bag and use it again for chicken or sea<strong>food</strong>.<br />

2 pounds very firm tofu<br />

2 cups parsley leaves, stems removed<br />

1 cup shredded carrots<br />

2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil<br />

8 flour tortillas<br />

Tandoori Marinade<br />

1 cup plain Greek yogurt<br />

1½ tablespoons minced ginger<br />

1½ tablespoons minced garlic<br />

1¼ teaspoons dried oregano<br />

¾ teaspoon dried chili flakes<br />

1¼ teaspoons ground cumin<br />

1 teaspoon ground turmeric<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper<br />

Cilantro-Yogurt Dressing<br />

1½ cups plain Greek yogurt<br />

1 teaspoon ground cumin<br />

4 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (optional)<br />

1. Halve tofu and wrap in paper towels. Place a heavy pot<br />

on top and drain, changing towels as necessary.<br />

2. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, mix together all<br />

ingredients. Pour into a large sealable plastic bag and add<br />

tofu to coat. Seal in bag and refrigerate 20 minutes or<br />

longer.<br />

3. For the dressing: Mix together all ingredients and pour<br />

into a serving bowl.<br />

4. Rinse and drain parsley and carrots, and place in a bowl.<br />

5. Heat a large frying pan with oil until very hot. Drain tofu,<br />

arrange in pan, and fry over moderately high heat 4 to<br />

5 minutes, until golden brown. Carefully flip and fry other<br />

side until golden, remove, and drain on paper towels. Let<br />

cool slightly and cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange on<br />

a serving platter.<br />

6. While tofu is cooking, fold tortillas in half or quarters,<br />

wrap in a damp cloth napkin or dishtowel, and steam<br />

1½ minutes in microwave at full power. Arrange on table<br />

with tofu, dressing, and parsley-carrot salad. Let each<br />

person spoon some dressing onto a tortilla, add tofu, and<br />

sprinkle some salad on top before rolling up.<br />

Turmeric’s Health Benefits<br />

Turmeric is a beloved Indian spice that is synonymous<br />

with health and flavor. It is not only credited with being<br />

a powerful antioxidant but is also celebrated for its<br />

anti-inflammatory properties and has been used in<br />

herbal remedies by Indian, Chinese, and Indonesian<br />

practitioners for centuries.<br />

“Curcumin is a compound within the volatile oil<br />

that is most active when the root is still young,” says<br />

spice authority Tom Erd, who with his wife, Patty,<br />

co-founded The Spice House, a spice market with several<br />

stores in the Chicago area. “The color and most of<br />

the medicine is a major phenol, [an aromatic organic<br />

compound] found in the rhizome or root of the plant.<br />

The spice as we generally know it is made when the<br />

fresh roots are first boiled and then dried. The roots<br />

are then ground into a deep orange-yellow powder.<br />

“We recommend that people keep turmeric in an<br />

airtight container away from light and heat,” adds Erd.<br />

“Since the oil is volatile, it should only be kept one<br />

to one and a half years, after which it will become<br />

slightly bitter.”<br />

The average amount of curcumin in turmeric is about<br />

3.4 percent. It can reach 5.5 percent and higher in<br />

certain regions and during certain crop years. Curcumin<br />

from the Alleppey region in Kerala, India’s southern<br />

area that is considered the spice capital of the world,<br />

usually produces the highest oil. In the spice trade,<br />

these rhizomes are known as “Alleppey Fingers.”<br />

Recent research has led scientists to believe that<br />

turmeric powder holds great promise. Researchers at<br />

the University of Texas note that curcumin inhibits the<br />

growth of melanoma and may also impede the spread<br />

of breast cancer to the lungs. Studies have also shown<br />

that curcumin may help delay liver damage that can<br />

eventually lead to cirrhosis. For treating osteoarthritis,<br />

the National Institutes of Health (NIH) recommends<br />

500 mg. daily of a specific turmeric extract. For soothing<br />

an upset stomach, the NIH recommends 500 mg.<br />

of turmeric four times daily. All the more reason to add<br />

turmeric to your essential spice pantry.<br />

Keeping it Fresh<br />

If you think you’ve had that jar of dried ground turmeric<br />

in your cupboard a long time, it might be a good<br />

idea to get a fresh one—the spice’s smell and flavor<br />

may become slightly bitter over time. You can also try<br />

your own freshly ground turmeric, which has a multidimensional<br />

aroma with elements of slight sweetness<br />

(almost similar to nutmeg) and full, rich savory qualities<br />

somewhere between ground coriander and cumin, but<br />

more subtle. (The turmeric root, similar to ginger root,<br />

may not be as easily available as the dried ground.)<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 49

easy CoConut riCe Pudding<br />

and glaZed aPPle sliCes<br />



FISH:<br />

Per serving: Calories<br />

274 (78 from fat); Fat 9g (sat.<br />

1g); Chol 65mg; sodiuM<br />

2109mg; CarB 23g; FiBer 1g;<br />

Protein 26g<br />


Per serving: Calories 500<br />

(200 from fat); Fat 22g (sat.<br />

7g); Chol 92mg; sodiuM<br />

821mg; CarB 41g; FiBer 7g;<br />

Protein 38g<br />


ROLL-UPS:<br />

Per serving: Calories 672<br />

(251 from fat); Fat 29g (sat.<br />

5g); Chol 9mg; sodiuM<br />

1510mg; CarB 65g; FiBer 5g;<br />

Protein 43g<br />



Per serving: Calories 337<br />

(119 from fat); Fat 13g (sat.<br />

8g); Chol 24mg; sodiuM<br />

302mg; CarB 55g; FiBer 3g;<br />

Protein 3g<br />


Per serving: Calories<br />

256 (14 from fat); Fat 2g (sat.<br />

0g); Chol 0mg; sodiuM<br />

14mg; CarB 60g; FiBer 16g;<br />

Protein 3g<br />

50 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Easy Coconut Rice Pudding<br />

Makes 4 to 6 servings<br />

This intoxicatingly delicious yet easy-to-make pudding paired with<br />

the Glazed Apple Slices makes for a wonderfully satisfying dessert.<br />

1 cup cooked arborio rice<br />

1 15-ounce can unsweetened light coconut<br />

milk, stirred well<br />

½ cup half-and-half<br />

¼ cup sugar<br />

1 teaspoon turmeric<br />

¼ teaspoon salt<br />

¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg<br />

1 teaspoon vanilla extract<br />

1. In a heavy saucepan, bring rice, coconut milk, half-and-half, sugar,<br />

turmeric, salt, and nutmeg to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook,<br />

uncovered, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened.<br />

2. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Pour into a serving bowl or<br />

individual ramekins and serve with Glazed Apple Slices.<br />

Mixed Fruit Smoothie<br />

Makes 1 to 2 servings<br />

My friend, who is the chief nutritionist at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute,<br />

adds turmeric to her morning smoothies because she believes<br />

it helps prevent cancer and other diseases. She inspired me to create<br />

this delicious and easy drink, which can be made for breakfast or a<br />

snack. You also can add 2 teaspoons ground flaxseed for some extra<br />

omega-3 essential fatty acids, fiber, and plant estrogen and antioxidants.<br />

Glazed Apple Slices<br />

Makes 4 servings<br />

This is a simple but sumptuous topping for the Easy<br />

Coconut Rice Pudding, but it is delicious on its<br />

own with a dollop of whipping cream or some ice<br />

cream to make it even more voluptuous.<br />

3 golden delicious apples<br />

1 halved lemon<br />

3 tablespoons light brown sugar<br />

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice<br />

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />

¼ teaspoon salt<br />

2 tablespoons unsalted butter<br />

1. Peel, core, and cut apples into ½-inch-thick slices.<br />

Rub with lemon and squeeze over some lemon<br />

juice to prevent browning. In a small bowl, combine<br />

sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, and salt with<br />

¼ cup water.<br />

2. In a 12-inch heavy skillet, heat butter over moderately<br />

high heat until foam subsides. Add apples and<br />

fry until golden on 1 side. Carefully flip and cook 4<br />

to 5 minutes, until tender.<br />

3. Add sauce and cook, uncovered, 3–5 minutes<br />

until reduced to a glaze. Remove and serve over<br />

Easy Coconut Rice Pudding.<br />

1½ cups frozen berries<br />

1 cup whole-fat yogurt<br />

1½ tablespoons maple syrup<br />

1 teaspoon turmeric<br />

1 teaspoon vanilla extract<br />

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper<br />

½ cup coarsely chopped ice<br />

(optional)<br />

1. In a blender or <strong>food</strong> processor<br />

fitted with a steel blade, purée<br />

berries until smooth. Add<br />

yogurt, syrup, turmeric,<br />

vanilla, and pepper, and<br />

pulse until smooth.<br />

Add chopped ice and<br />

drink. ■<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 51

52 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

By Tara Q. Thomas<br />

Daniel Boulud<br />

from farm to restaurant<br />

Imagine never having set foot in a grocery store until age 14. Imagine never having<br />

set foot in a restaurant, either. And now imagine that person is roundly acclaimed as<br />

one of the greatest chefs cooking in the United States today.<br />

That arc describes the life of Daniel Boulud,<br />

the man behind Daniel, one of only seven<br />

restaurants in New York to earn Michelin’s<br />

three-star rating; the restaurant also garnered<br />

three stars from The New York Times<br />

this past summer, the restaurant’s twentieth<br />

year. It’s a remarkable rise for a kid who grew<br />

up slopping pigs and tending vegetables on a<br />

farm outside of Lyon, France—and Daniel is<br />

only one of many restaurants Boulud runs.<br />

There are seven in New York, some of which<br />

have spawned siblings in places as far afield<br />

as Florida, Mont<strong>real</strong>, Toronto, London, and<br />

Singapore.<br />

Boulud also has a television show of his own,<br />

After Hours with Daniel, in which he hangs out<br />

with chef friends after the guests have gone<br />

home and they can cook for themselves. And<br />

he’s penned a small library of books. Yet for<br />

all the activity, Daniel remains the focal point<br />

of his efforts, a centerpiece now captured<br />

in Boulud’s newest book, Daniel: My French<br />

Cuisine.<br />

“My other books—books like Braise, Café<br />

Boulud, Cocktails—were books in which the<br />

inspiration was to make the <strong>food</strong> accessible,”<br />

he explains when I catch him just before the<br />

lunch rush one chilly morning in New York<br />

City. “Daniel is about the restaurant, about me<br />

and my team,” he says, adding with a laugh, “I<br />

finally reveal my full identity.”<br />

He’s joking, but there’s truth to it, as creating<br />

Daniel, the restaurant, has been his life’s<br />

work. “When I opened Daniel the first time, I<br />

didn’t have the other restaurants, and I loved<br />

to cook everything—rustic bistro dishes,<br />

haute cuisine—from the most refined to the<br />

most peasant dishes,” Boulud tells me. When<br />

he moved the restaurant into its current space<br />

on the corner of 65th Street and Park Avenue,<br />

he did it with the intention of making it “une<br />

maison pour la vie,” he says, a home for life. He<br />

went so far as to move in upstairs, installing<br />

a window with a view into the kitchen (“the<br />

skybox,” as it’s known downstairs), so he could<br />

keep tabs on the action even when he was “off.”<br />

In the restaurant, he began honing, spinning<br />

bistro dishes off to more casual restaurants<br />

such as Bar Boulud and DBGB so he could<br />

tighten the focus at Daniel. “Daniel today is<br />

richness and sophistication,” he says.<br />

That richness and sophistication is laid<br />

out in glorious detail in Daniel, the book. It’s<br />

the sort of volume that chefs will pour over,<br />

studying the recipes for ideas and techniques<br />

to inspire and improve their cooking. It’s eye<br />

candy for chef groupies, too, who will display<br />

it proudly on their coffee tables. It may, in fact,<br />

be the sort of book you’ll take one look at and<br />

think, “I’ll never make any of that; forget it.”<br />

But if you like to think about <strong>food</strong>, and about<br />

how a dish comes to be, you’ll find this a fas-<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 53

cinating read, for it’s in this volume that he<br />

reveals the breadth of his inspirations and<br />

the essential heart of them.<br />

That isn’t to say the recipes are inaccessible—in<br />

fact, Boulud quickly points out that<br />

they’ve worked hard to explain every step<br />

very carefully, so that anyone with the time<br />

and gumption to make them will come out<br />

with a favorable result. But also, he adds, full<br />

commitment isn’t required. “It’s very easy<br />

to make just part of a recipe,” he says. “You<br />

could just make a garnish, or [borrow] the<br />

seasoning; in every case, you can take something<br />

useful away without having to recreate<br />

the entire recipe.”<br />

In fact, the most engrossing section of the<br />

book has no recipes. Part II, “Iconic Sessions,”<br />

is built around the recreation of twelve dishes<br />

he considers iconic in the French repertoire,<br />

dishes that hark back to the days of<br />

Antoine Câreme and Auguste Escoffier,<br />

18th-century chefs who were instrumental<br />

in defining what has come to be known as<br />

“classic French cuisine.” (Escoffier’s Le Guide<br />

Culinaire was one of the first books Boulud<br />

ever bought, from his earnings working as<br />

a cook at age 14; it remains an essential reference<br />

for serious chefs today.) “The idea<br />

was to bring back the idea of old-fashioned<br />

French cooking that nobody does anymore,”<br />

Boulud says. “I always enjoyed doing those<br />

dishes. It’s going back in time, to the formation<br />

of what inspires us today.”<br />

Creating the dishes was also an adventure<br />

for every cook involved, most especially Bill<br />

Buford, a writer and an ambitious cook who<br />

Boulud roped in to be a central player in<br />

their recreation. (“I wanted to have a bonding<br />

experience with him,” Boulud explains;<br />

“he’d just spent four years in Lyon immersed<br />

in French cooking; I wanted to show him<br />

the dishes no one else had.”) There were no<br />

recipes; an extensive team of Boulud’s chefs<br />

plus Buford worked off of written descriptions<br />

and illustrations in old texts, plus a<br />

lot of input from Boulud himself, the only<br />

one who’d had any experience with most of<br />

them. Each dish took days to create, the final<br />

results huge, architectural affairs meant to<br />

entertain royalty. At some level, no one in<br />

their right mind would go to these extremes<br />

anymore to impress; it’s not necessary or<br />

fashionable.<br />

And yet, Boulud insists, it’s important<br />

to know these recipes. “For instance, when<br />

I came to the U.S., everyone was talking<br />

about coulibiac,” he says, referring to a recipe<br />

involving a salmon baked in a crust. “This<br />

was puzzling for me; it had no <strong>real</strong> soulful<br />

meaning to me. But Craig Claiborne, Pierre<br />

Franey, these older great chefs were doing<br />

it.” When Craig Claiborne invited him over<br />

to make dinner—a sort of rite of passage for<br />

young French chefs arriving in New York—<br />

Boulud decided to make it for him.<br />

Boulud passed the test, yet the recipe has<br />

stuck with him; specifically the challenge of<br />

how to deal with the fact that either the fish<br />

is cooked perfectly but the pastry isn’t, or<br />

vice versa. When the team sets out to make<br />

it for “Iconic Sessions,” they toss out the<br />

first four attempts, and Boulud stresses<br />

about the recipe for days. He finally finds<br />

an opening for an improvement by scrutinizing<br />

Escoffier himself, whose description<br />

he’d been working off of, rather than<br />

the recipe. The newly refined recipe turns<br />

out to be fabulous … until Buford relates to<br />

Boulud some historical details of the dish his<br />

research has brought up, opening up a possibility<br />

of a further improvement. Is Boulud<br />

bitter? Maybe in that moment he was, but<br />

not now. “It’s fantastic, the combination of<br />

tradition and the academic, for the chef,” he<br />

says, sounding positively exhilarated by the<br />

challenge. “It makes you engaged in a way<br />

that’s much more meaningful.”<br />

For Buford, the experience also pointed<br />

out a more universally relatable truth: “If<br />

cooking knowledge is not carefully passed<br />

from one generation to the next, it doesn’t<br />

last,” he writes. In his calculation, it took less<br />

54 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014

Poulet à l’Estragon<br />

makes 6 to 8 servings<br />

than 60 years for coulibiac to drop out of the<br />

classic repertoire, and all the knowledge that<br />

went with its preparation disappeared.<br />

“To me it’s always important to keep reference<br />

with the past, to stay connected,” Boulud<br />

says. In this way, the recipes in the last section<br />

of the book—“Daniel at Home”—are just as<br />

important as the “icons,” as they are some of<br />

his formative <strong>food</strong>s, riffs on dishes he made<br />

as a young chef, and classics that speak clearly<br />

of place and tradition. A great recipe isn’t just<br />

an instruction for how to get dinner on the<br />

table; it’s a telescoping of history, tradition,<br />

and place onto the plate, immortalizing them<br />

in taste.<br />

With that, we present you Boulud’s Poulet<br />

à l’Estragon, a fancy name for a simple braised<br />

chicken that he learned at his very first job, as<br />

a farm boy-newly-turned cook at age 14. <br />

salt<br />

15 golf ball–size tomatoes<br />

1 tablespoon butter<br />

2 tablespoons olive oil<br />

2 (2- to 3-pound) farm-raised<br />

chickens, each cut into<br />

8 pieces<br />

freshly ground white pepper<br />

4 large shallots, sliced<br />

10 ounces pearl onions<br />

2 tablespoons tomato paste<br />

3 tablespoons flour<br />

½ cup tarragon vinegar<br />

2 cups chicken stock<br />

½ bunch tarragon<br />

Rice Pilaf<br />

1½ cups basmati rice<br />

2 tablespoons olive oil<br />

1 shallot, minced<br />

2 tablespoons butter<br />

2½ cups chicken stock<br />

1 teaspoon salt<br />

1 bay leaf<br />

2 sprigs thyme<br />

2 sprigs tarragon<br />

Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée<br />

salt<br />

1 pound yellow wax beans,<br />

trimmed<br />

2 tablespoons butter<br />

freshly ground white pepper<br />

½ bunch tarragon, leaves<br />

chopped<br />

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and set a bowl of ice water on the<br />

side. Score an X on the bottoms of the tomatoes. Boil them for 5 seconds,<br />

or until the skins loosen on the bottoms. Strain and peel under cold running<br />

water; set aside.<br />

2. In a 5-quart braising pan over medium high heat, melt the butter with the oil.<br />

3. Season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to<br />

the pan skin side down and sear until golden brown on both sides, about<br />

10 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a platter, set aside, and strain all but<br />

1 tablespoon fat from the pan.<br />

4. Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallots and onions to the pan.<br />

Cook, stirring, until the shallots are soft. Add the tomato paste and flour<br />

and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the vinegar, bring to a simmer,<br />

then stir in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, making sure to scrape the<br />

bottom of the pan.<br />

5. Return the chicken to the pan with half of the tomatoes and the tarragon.<br />

Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.<br />

6. Add the remaining tomatoes, cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes,<br />

or until the chicken is cooked through.<br />

For the Rice Pilaf:<br />

1. Rinse the rice with cold water until it runs clear. Heat the olive oil in a<br />

medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring, until<br />

translucent. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the butter, chicken stock, salt,<br />

bay leaf, thyme, and tarragon and bring to a simmer.<br />

2. Cover and cook undisturbed over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off<br />

the heat and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff the rice<br />

with a fork.<br />

photos and recipe from Daniel, my french cuisine<br />

by daniel boulud, photography by thomas<br />

schauer; Copyright © 2013; Published by Grand<br />

Central Life & Style<br />

For the Yellow Wax Bean Fricassée:<br />

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and boil for<br />

4 minutes, or until tender.<br />

2. Strain, return the beans to the pan over medium-low heat, and toss with<br />

the butter. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the tarragon leaves just<br />

before serving.<br />

spring 2014 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> 55

pairings<br />

A Favored Fizz<br />


Prosecco is becoming more and more popular lately, and with<br />

good reason. This reasonably priced sparkling wine from Italy<br />

is, plain and simply, darn tasty. Fruitier than Champagne,<br />

straw-colored Prosecco is prized for its delicate flavors and<br />

aromas, which are often described as having citrus overtones<br />

and being reminiscent of ripe pears, melons, and sweet<br />

apples with hints of almonds.<br />

Hailing from the eastern part of Italy’s Veneto region, in<br />

the foothills of the Alps (just north of Venice), Prosecco is<br />

produced from the grape of the same name (sometimes<br />

combined with a small amount of Pinot Blanc or Pinot Grigio),<br />

and made into lightly sparkling (frizzante) and fully sparkling<br />

(spumante) styles. Traditionally, it has been off-dry or slightly<br />

sweet, but many today are crisp and dry and produced<br />

principally in two versions—brut and extra dry (which is<br />

actually slightly sweeter than the brut).<br />

Prosecco has a persistent taste and is clean on the palate,<br />

which makes it great with <strong>food</strong> such as egg dishes, almonds<br />

and other nuts, fresh cheese, green salad, Chinese <strong>food</strong>,<br />

white meats, or pasta dishes with a light meat sauce. Crab,<br />

lobster, shrimp, salmon, or sea scallops also make tasty<br />

matches. And sweet, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese offers<br />

a nice counterpoint to this fresh bubbly. As the Venetians do in<br />

Prosecco’s homeland, enjoy it throughout the meal.<br />

MIX IT UP For a brunch twist,<br />

use it in a Mimosa: Fill a wine<br />

glass or champagne flute<br />

halfway with chilled Prosecco<br />

(about 1 ounce) and top off<br />

with chilled orange juice<br />

(about 2 ounces), gently<br />

stir. If you’d like, add<br />

a splash of triple sec<br />

or Grand Marnier<br />

to taste. ■<br />

56 <strong>real</strong> <strong>food</strong> spring 2014<br />


©2006 Unilever<br />

SAUCE SO<br />




The perfect blend of tomato, 100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder<br />

chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.

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