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Spring 2012 - Dress and Textile Specialists

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industry, <strong>and</strong> his presence alone ensures press coverage at openings <strong>and</strong> exhibitions. Burberry’s links<br />

with Yorkshire are established; the famous Burberry Trench Coat has been produced in Castleford,<br />

Yorkshire since the 1960’s. There is also a textile conservator, a respected business director <strong>and</strong> a<br />

research professor.<br />

Figure 1 First YFA postcard c. 2000<br />

The acquisition methodology of this collection involves critically appraising clothing <strong>and</strong> accessories<br />

bought, made or worn in Yorkshire in the 20th century. The personal narratives of the garment’s<br />

owners are investigated <strong>and</strong> preserved through clothing, accessories, photographs, film <strong>and</strong> audio<br />

recordings, <strong>and</strong> anecdote. The 20 th century was a period of enormous change in both clothing<br />

production <strong>and</strong> consumption, the archive provides opportunities for scholars to investigate research<br />

questions related to cultural <strong>and</strong> socio-economic characteristics of this significant era, including<br />

changing social attitudes <strong>and</strong> influences, economic prosperity, global trends <strong>and</strong> the regional<br />

technical excellence in textiles <strong>and</strong> clothing.<br />

The repository’s aim is to provide a historical <strong>and</strong> cultural record of Yorkshire life in the 20th<br />

Century that will engage with business, schools, higher education <strong>and</strong> the local <strong>and</strong> wider<br />

communities to maximize its impact <strong>and</strong> ensure long-term sustainability. The YFA is a collection<br />

of vintage clothing <strong>and</strong> accessories spanning every decade of the 20th century, from debutante<br />

gowns to mill workers overalls, <strong>and</strong> draws upon material from the local community <strong>and</strong> is a<br />

national resource that will continue to develop with historically significant donated pieces being<br />

secured from internationally known UK designers, manufacturers, retailers <strong>and</strong> the general<br />

public. Unlike many other fashion archives, which seek to include examples of all types of<br />

fashion <strong>and</strong> clothing with the emphasis on the artefact themselves, the research materials at the<br />

YFA allows scholars to approach local history from a new perspective, which allows a method of<br />

interaction with a local narrator <strong>and</strong> the experience of a more intimate personal history.<br />

‘Fashion <strong>and</strong> dress are socially salient media that are simultaneously intimate <strong>and</strong> public<br />

<strong>and</strong>, once worn or displayed, can be infused with the wearer’s life story <strong>and</strong> the memories of<br />

those close to them.’ (de la Haye: 2011).<br />

The archive has the support of the School of Design in the<br />

University of Leeds, but it was a grant from the<br />

Clothworkers Company, which enabled the archive to<br />

become publically accessible in 2010. The archive was<br />

able to move into new accommodation, invest in much<br />

needed archiving materials, develop a br<strong>and</strong> identity<br />

(Fig.2), create a website <strong>and</strong> launch the first public<br />

exhibition at Salts Mill in April 2011. The patron,<br />

Christopher Bailey brings support <strong>and</strong> interest from the<br />

business sector. On an ongoing basis, industrial partners<br />

from the fashion industry sponsor student projects using<br />

26

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