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Our respOnsibility - H&M.com

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<strong>Our</strong><br />

responsibility<br />

About H&M and<br />

social responsibility


<strong>Our</strong> responsibility<br />

H&M’s business concept is to offer our customers fashion and quality<br />

at the best price. At H&M, quality is about more than making sure that<br />

our products meet or exceed our customers’ expectations. It also<br />

means that they have to be manufactured under good conditions and<br />

that our customers must be satisfied with us as a <strong>com</strong>pany. Taking<br />

responsibility for how our operations affect people and the environment<br />

is also an essential prerequisite for H&M’s continued profitability and<br />

growth. Here we explain how we do this.


Contents<br />

PAGE 6<br />

Follow Tobias Fischer and Payal Jain, two of around 40 H&M<br />

auditors, during a typical working day in New Delhi.<br />

PAGE 8<br />

The code of conduct is an agreement that all H&M’s<br />

suppliers have to <strong>com</strong>ply with. It sets out the <strong>com</strong>pany’s requirements<br />

concerning aspects such as good working conditions.<br />

PAGE 12<br />

MeeT MUHAMMED AKHTARUZZAMAN, factory manager in Dhaka,<br />

Bangladesh. He tells us all about working with H&M and what<br />

effect this has had on his factory.<br />

PAGE 14<br />

Rokeya Rafique and Shirin Akter are two representatives of<br />

the Karmojibi Nari organisation in Bangladesh. Read about what<br />

they think of the co-operation with H&M.<br />

PAGE 16<br />

H&M’s world: this shows where our goods are produced and<br />

where they are sold, and what development projects we support.<br />

PAGE 20<br />

H&M’s code of conduct suppliers to <strong>com</strong>ply with the<br />

environmental legislation applicable in their own country. We<br />

also encourage them to take more environmental responsibility<br />

than the law requires.<br />

A shared<br />

responsibility<br />

During a recent trip to Asia I had the<br />

opportunity to visit several of our suppliers,<br />

including some in China. I also met some of<br />

H&M’s auditors, whose job it is to monitor<br />

<strong>com</strong>pliance with our code of conduct, and<br />

gained an insight into the extensive work that<br />

goes into improving the working conditions in<br />

our suppliers’ factories. It was reassuring to<br />

see for myself how effectively this part of our<br />

organisation functions.<br />

I am in no doubt that long-term profitability<br />

and good relations with our customers and<br />

other stakeholders depends upon us taking<br />

responsibility for how people and the<br />

environment are affected by what we do. We<br />

are continually receiving input from the world<br />

around us, not least from customers and<br />

employees, indicating that the environment<br />

and social responsibility are issues that<br />

engage people.<br />

H&M has signed up to the UN’s Global<br />

Compact and supports its ten principles. We<br />

want to send out the message that we are<br />

prepared to act in accordance with Kofi<br />

Annan’s appeal to <strong>com</strong>panies to respect<br />

human rights and to contribute to sustainable<br />

development within the areas we can affect.<br />

H&M also supports the OECD guidelines for<br />

multinational enterprises and is a member<br />

of the Amnesty Business Group.<br />

The CSR department* reports directly to me,<br />

so I have been able to follow this important<br />

work closely. This means I can assure H&M’s<br />

customers, staff, shareholders and other<br />

stakeholders that we are devoting our<br />

expertise and our <strong>com</strong>mitment to pressing<br />

ahead with this work. We have already made<br />

good progress, but to be successful in our<br />

quest for a better society we also have to<br />

continue working closely in partnership with<br />

others.<br />

Rolf Eriksen, CEO, H&M<br />

“ It is important for<br />

us to accept our<br />

responsibility and<br />

to press ahead<br />

with this work.”<br />

ROLF ERIKSEN<br />

DANISH<br />

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN<br />

WIFE AND TWO CHILDREN<br />

CEO, H&M<br />

* CSR stands for corporate social responsibility, and means that the <strong>com</strong>pany voluntarily takes account of social and<br />

environmental issues in the way it operates, to help contribute towards sustainable development.<br />

NAME<br />

NATIONALITY<br />

LIVES IN<br />

FAMILY<br />

PROFESSION


Did you know that... Around 750 people work at H&M’s offices in the<br />

manufacturing countries. Most of them are locals.<br />

<br />

A day in the life of an auditor<br />

Payal Jain and Tobias Fischer are two of around 40 auditors<br />

working for H&M. Their job is to inspect working conditions at<br />

H&M’s suppliers and to check that the ILO core conventions and<br />

H&M’s Code of Conduct are being respected. Payal and Tobias<br />

work together, visiting suppliers in and around New Delhi.<br />

Outside New Delhi. It is early in the morning<br />

when Tobias Fischer and Payal Jain arrive at<br />

the factory gates in their car. No one knows<br />

they are <strong>com</strong>ing today. Tobias and Payal wear<br />

H&M ID badges so that the guards and the<br />

factory staff know who they are. Six months<br />

ago, auditors carried out a <strong>com</strong>prehensive<br />

inspection of the working conditions at the<br />

factory and Payal and Tobias are here today<br />

to find out whether the supplier has achieved<br />

the short-term goals set during that visit.<br />

“ We want the suppliers to<br />

strive for lasting improvements<br />

because they can see the<br />

benefits for themselves.”<br />

Code of conduct is the starting point<br />

Like all of H&M’s suppliers, the factory has<br />

signed up to a cooperation agreement –<br />

H&M’s Code of Conduct – promising to <strong>com</strong>ply<br />

with local legislation and H&M’s requirements<br />

regarding the working environment. The<br />

agreement also contains a provision stipulating<br />

that H&M’s auditors can make unannounced<br />

visits.<br />

“We carry out an extensive audit whenever<br />

we start working with a new supplier. This<br />

takes between two and seven days. We work<br />

with the factory managers to identify key areas<br />

for improvement, and decide on a plan of<br />

action. The plan contains both long-term and<br />

short-term goals and sets out how the goals<br />

should be achieved, who will be responsible<br />

and when the work should be <strong>com</strong>pleted,”<br />

explains Tobias.<br />

Unannounced visits<br />

Payal and Tobias enter the factory and ask for<br />

the manager. He greets them and ac<strong>com</strong>panies<br />

them on a tour of the factory. Since H&M first<br />

introduced the code of conduct in India in<br />

1998, the auditors have made repeated visits<br />

to the factories.<br />

“To begin with the factory owners were a<br />

little unused to the idea of being inspected like<br />

this. Now they understand that unannounced<br />

visits are part and parcel of the way we work,<br />

and few are surprised when we turn up out of<br />

the blue,” says Payal.<br />

Improvements implemented<br />

The auditors check the fire escapes and<br />

discuss safety routines with a factory<br />

representative. These include the provision<br />

of fire alarms, emergency exits and fire<br />

extinguishers, but also cover aspects such as<br />

making sure the factory is always clean and<br />

tidy and that there are a sufficient number of<br />

good, clean toilets. The working environment<br />

is important, both for the workers’ wellbeing<br />

and for the quality of the clothing produced.<br />

Payal notes that the working environment has<br />

improved considerably since the last visit.<br />

In the past there had been problems with<br />

material remnants from the cutting machines<br />

and thread from the production area being left<br />

lying around. Now the factory has employed<br />

more cleaners, supplied suitable tools and<br />

equipment and introduced better routines.<br />

The factory is clean and is now a safer and<br />

more pleasant place for the employees to<br />

work.<br />

Overtime a problem<br />

When Payal and Tobias have finished the<br />

factory inspection they go to the supplier’s<br />

office to examine the paperwork relating to the<br />

employees. They check payroll information<br />

and employee records, and see how much<br />

overtime has been worked. Recently, some<br />

departments at the factory were understaffed.<br />

This hampered production and led to<br />

excessive amounts of overtime being worked.<br />

Having inspected the time cards, payroll<br />

information and production records, Tobias<br />

and Payal can confirm that the overtime has<br />

been reduced, but it is still above the legal<br />

limit. The supplier will have to continue<br />

following the action plan.<br />

Then it’s time to drive back to H&M’s offices<br />

in New Delhi to document the visit and to<br />

report back to the CSR department at head<br />

office in Sweden.<br />

Influencing attitudes<br />

The auditor’s job is far from simple because<br />

it involves influencing other people’s attitudes<br />

and behaviour. Payal explains:<br />

“It can be quite a tough challenge to persuade<br />

suppliers that they have a lot to gain from<br />

H&M’s Code of Conduct and the cooperation<br />

with us. I try and get them to see that it can<br />

make their employees more motivated and may<br />

well even increase productivity. We want the<br />

suppliers to strive for lasting improvements<br />

because they can see the benefits for themselves,<br />

not just because the buyer says they<br />

have to. Their task, as I see it, is to put us out<br />

of a job.<br />

Tobias Fischer and Payal Jain are two of around 40<br />

employees who check that suppliers are <strong>com</strong>plying<br />

with H&M’s Code of Conduct.


Did you know that... H&M signed up to the UN Global Compact in 2001.<br />

<br />

<strong>Our</strong> code of conduct<br />

– a long-term <strong>com</strong>mitment<br />

We are all dependent upon sustainable development. Polluting water<br />

and spoiling other natural resources is not sustainable, nor is violating<br />

human rights. That’s why more and more <strong>com</strong>panies are drawing up<br />

special regulations, so-called codes of conduct, for their suppliers.<br />

H&M’s code of conduct was drawn up in<br />

1997 and is based on the UN Convention on the<br />

Rights of the Child and the ILO’s conventions<br />

on working conditions and employment rights.<br />

It exists because we want our products to be<br />

manufactured under good working conditions.<br />

A code of conduct must be more than just<br />

fine words; it has to be rooted in reality.<br />

Factories that don’t meet the requirements of<br />

H&M’s Code of Conduct receive assistance to<br />

help them improve and to develop. That’s why<br />

we have around 40 auditors working full time,<br />

checking that suppliers <strong>com</strong>ply with our code<br />

and giving the factories advice and assistance.<br />

The aim is to get them to see for themselves the<br />

long-term benefits that improved conditions<br />

can bring. H&M also has a 150-strong team of<br />

inspectors whose job is to control the quality of<br />

the clothes. They can also report any breach of<br />

the code of conduct they may spot during their<br />

factory visits.<br />

Read more about the background to H&M’s Code of<br />

Conduct on page 10 or at www.hm.<strong>com</strong>/csr.<br />

H&M’s Code of Conduct exists because we want our<br />

products to be manufactured under good conditions.<br />

H&M’s code of conduct includes<br />

the following stipulations:<br />

Ban on child labour<br />

Fortunately, child labour is not a <strong>com</strong>mon<br />

occurrence at the factories that manufacture<br />

H&M products. If H&M were to find a child who<br />

was below the statutory minimum age working<br />

at one of our suppliers, we would work to find<br />

a solution that was in that individual’s best<br />

interests. Co-operation would end if the<br />

supplier repeatedly breached H&M’s ban on<br />

child labour.<br />

Good working environment and fire safety<br />

The factories where H&M’s clothes are made<br />

have to provide a clean and safe working<br />

environment. There must be a high level of fire<br />

safety, and regular fire drills must be held.<br />

Emergency exits must be clearly marked and<br />

must not be blocked. The lighting must work<br />

properly and all areas must be kept clean.<br />

Reasonable working hours and wages<br />

Wages must be paid regularly and should be<br />

in proportion to the work carried out. Overtime<br />

must be voluntary and properly <strong>com</strong>pensated.<br />

Female employees must have a right to<br />

maternity leave.<br />

Right to organise and ban on<br />

discrimination<br />

All employees have a right to an employment<br />

contract and the right to organise. There must<br />

not be any discrimination on the grounds of<br />

gender, religion or ethnic background.<br />

ILO conventions<br />

The International Labour Organisation (ILO) is a UN<br />

body consisting of representatives of government,<br />

employer organisations and trade unions. It works<br />

to improve working and living conditions by<br />

drawing up conventions and re<strong>com</strong>mendations<br />

concerning wages, working hours, employment<br />

conditions and social systems.<br />

Read more at www.ilo.org.<br />

UN Convention on the Rights of the Child<br />

The UN Convention on the Rights of the Child<br />

applies to children and young people throughout<br />

the world. Most countries have signed up to the<br />

Convention, whose principles state that all children<br />

are of equal worth, that all children have the right to<br />

an education, care and security and that persons or<br />

bodies who make decisions that affect children<br />

must do so based on the child’s best interests.<br />

Read more at www.unicef.org/crc.<br />

Environmental and chemical restrictions<br />

H&M requires its suppliers to take responsibility<br />

for the impact they have on the environment.<br />

This means that in addition to <strong>com</strong>plying with<br />

the legislation applicable in their own country,<br />

they also have to sign an agreement promising<br />

to <strong>com</strong>ply with H&M’s chemical restrictions.<br />

These safeguard our customers’ health and<br />

safety, as well as the environment.<br />

The full text of the code of conduct can be found at<br />

www.hm.<strong>com</strong>/csr.<br />

Talking to factory employees provides an insight into the<br />

situation at their workplaces.


10 Did you know that... H&M has carried out more than 15,000 factory inspections since 1998.<br />

11<br />

Active co-operation<br />

H&M does not accept<br />

child labour<br />

H&M does not own or operate any factories<br />

of its own. <strong>Our</strong> clothes and other products are<br />

manufactured at around 700 supplier factories,<br />

with most of the production taking place in<br />

Asia and Europe.<br />

Stipulating standards of production, both in<br />

terms of the quality of the clothes and the<br />

working environment in the factories, is nothing<br />

new for H&M. We have long held the view that<br />

as a <strong>com</strong>pany, we have a responsibility for<br />

everyone who contributes to H&M’s success.<br />

“We have learned to take one<br />

small step at a time, always<br />

making sure we’re moving<br />

in the right direction.”<br />

H&M drew up its own code of conduct in 1997<br />

to <strong>com</strong>bat substandard working conditions.<br />

Child labour was very much in the news at the<br />

time, and was a pressing issue, so we also got<br />

the Save the Children organisation involved in<br />

the drafting of the code of conduct. H&M’s own<br />

experience was also an important influence on the<br />

final shape of the document. Ingrid Schullström,<br />

who is responsible for the environment and<br />

social responsibility at H&M, was one of those<br />

who helped get the project off the ground.<br />

“More concrete effort and pro-active work was<br />

needed from H&M,” says Ingrid Schullström.<br />

“These are important issues and we want to take<br />

our responsibility. We have already <strong>com</strong>e an<br />

unbelievably long way, and work is still ongoing.<br />

We’re now at the stage where we’re focusing on<br />

more specific and <strong>com</strong>plicated issues such as<br />

trade union rights. We have learned to take one<br />

small step at a time, always making sure we’re<br />

moving in the right direction.”<br />

Textile worker in Cambodia, where H&M works with ILO’s<br />

Better Factories Cambodia.<br />

H&M takes the issue of child labour<br />

extremely seriously. The code of conduct<br />

states very clearly that child labour is not<br />

permitted in the suppliers’ factories.<br />

If any of H&M’s auditors discovers a person<br />

who is still below the statutory minimum age<br />

for work, we try and find the best possible<br />

solution in consultation with the supplier and<br />

the child’s family. We take account of the<br />

child’s age, level of education and conditions<br />

at home. The solution often involves some<br />

form of education. It is very important that any<br />

change leads to an improvement in the<br />

situation of the individual person. If the child is<br />

just forced out of the factory without any<br />

follow-up, there is unfortunately a risk that he<br />

or she may end up doing other, heavier work.<br />

But if H&M discovers repeated breaches of<br />

its ban on child labour at the same supplier or<br />

one of its subsuppliers, the cooperation will be<br />

ended for good.<br />

How do we make sure there<br />

is no child labour?<br />

When inspecting the factories, H&M’s auditors<br />

keep an eye out for any workers who look too<br />

Training is an effective way of preventing child labour.<br />

young. It is also the job of the auditors to check<br />

employment papers and other documentation<br />

concerning the employees. Any gaps in the<br />

paperwork might indicate there is a problem.<br />

The auditors can then provide advice on how<br />

the employer can organise the hiring of new<br />

staff to make sure no underage employees are<br />

taken on, such as requiring a birth certificate.<br />

What is the age limit?<br />

H&M’s child labour policy is based on the UN<br />

Convention on the Rights of the Child and ILO<br />

convention 138, but also on the national<br />

legislation of the country concerned. The basic<br />

rule is that no one under the age of 15 should<br />

be employed at the suppliers’ factories.<br />

A better situation for children<br />

We are aware of the vulnerable situation of<br />

children in many parts of the world. That’s why<br />

we work actively both with our suppliers and<br />

with local organisations to improve children’s<br />

future prospects. We support UNICEF’s work<br />

with girls’ education.<br />

Read more about UNICEF on page 19.


Did you know that... H&M is the largest European buyer of clothes from Bangladesh.<br />

13<br />

A factory manager reports<br />

A large number of H&M garments are produced at the factory<br />

FCI (Fashion Club International) in Dhaka, one of the better<br />

factories in terms of <strong>com</strong>pliance with H&M’s Code of Conduct.<br />

Chief operating officer Muhammed Akhtaruzzaman’s philosophy<br />

is to maintain a family atmosphere in the factory and involve the<br />

workers in the <strong>com</strong>pany and its development.<br />

“When the workers are part of the result and<br />

get something out of it, they are motivated and<br />

feel a sense of responsibility,” Muhammed<br />

Akhtaruzzaman explains.<br />

According to his philosophy, the workers at<br />

FCI take part of the profit through additional<br />

performance bonuses and attendance bonuses.<br />

There is a policy for equal opportunity and<br />

equal treatment and all sewing operators have<br />

a chance to advance.<br />

“We have 60 to 70 supervisors who were all<br />

promoted from the floor. 90 per cent of the<br />

office staff also started their career on the<br />

factory floor.”<br />

”Human resources play<br />

a vital role in building up<br />

a successful industry.”<br />

Focus on the working environment<br />

Almost 1,400 people work in the one-storey<br />

building where FCI operates. A great deal of<br />

effort has gone into creating the interior<br />

environment. The sewing area is light and<br />

clean, and an air-conditioning system keeps<br />

the air cool. FCI provides the employees with<br />

free transportation, group and life insurance,<br />

75 per cent subsidized lunches and free<br />

snacks. There are two separate praying areas<br />

in the factory, as well as medical and childcare<br />

facilities. And, in addition, a welfare fund has<br />

been formed in order to support workers<br />

financially when there is a special need.<br />

“I believe the fund is quite unique,” says<br />

Muhammed Akhtaruzzaman, who used to be<br />

a legal advisor before he became garment<br />

factory manager.<br />

He explains that generally in Bangladesh,<br />

garment workers are not organised, or they do<br />

not benefit much from the trade unions. At FCI,<br />

the workers’ representation welfare <strong>com</strong>mittee<br />

(WRWC) is the workers’ voice. Once a month<br />

the WRWC meets with the management to<br />

exchange views and bring up issues.<br />

Workers’ <strong>com</strong>mittees<br />

“<strong>Our</strong> workers’ welfare <strong>com</strong>mittee was initially<br />

formed at the request of H&M. They gave us<br />

ideas about how to act and how to identify<br />

code of conduct issues,” says Muhammed<br />

Akhtaruzzaman. “I believe that everyone<br />

should have a code of conduct and follow it<br />

rigorously. It benefits not only the workers but<br />

the production and the quality as well. Human<br />

resources play a vital role in building up a<br />

successful industry”.<br />

Despite numerous good practices, FCI<br />

still has a few issues to sort out. Excessive<br />

overtime is one of them. H&M’s audits have<br />

shown that some of the workers have worked<br />

long hours and for too long without days off.<br />

The factory is to address these issues, and the<br />

progress will be followed up by H&M.<br />

Muhammed Akhtaruzzaman runs FCI in Dhaka in<br />

Bangladesh.


14<br />

Did you know that... H&M has been dealing with Bangladeshi suppliers for more than 20 years.<br />

“ The most important thing is<br />

the change of attitudes”<br />

“The garment sector has brought a silent<br />

revolution for women in our society,” claims<br />

Shirin Akter, a labour rights activist since 1970<br />

in Bangladesh. She is a strong and well-known<br />

voice for garment workers and president of the<br />

women’s rights organisation Karmojibi Nari<br />

(KN), meaning “working woman”. In August<br />

2004, H&M and KN started a project with the<br />

objective of increasing awareness among<br />

garment workers of their rights. A training<br />

programme was developed primarily for female<br />

workers, focusing on gender equality and<br />

workers’ relations with management in factories<br />

producing for H&M.<br />

“<strong>Our</strong> society is a patriarchy and the trade<br />

unions are male dominated. Women have<br />

always believed that it is a man’s job to speak<br />

out. The female workers have little knowledge<br />

of labour laws,” Shirin Akter explains.<br />

Seeing things in a new light<br />

Rokeya Rafique, a famous actress in Bangladesh,<br />

is doing the training.<br />

“Each and every session is an eye-opener<br />

for the participants,” Rokeya says. “The most<br />

important thing is the change of attitudes.<br />

After the training, women know there are laws<br />

for maternity leave, equal pay for equal work<br />

and overtime. They be<strong>com</strong>e brave. They feel<br />

equal, they can talk to the management or a<br />

colleague about their problems.”<br />

The training groups consist of randomly<br />

selected participants at a number of factories.<br />

The groups are 20 per cent male and 80 per<br />

cent female workers – the same proportions as<br />

in the garment sector in Bangladesh. Leaflets<br />

are circulated at the factories and each<br />

participant has the task of sharing the new<br />

knowledge with five colleagues. Welfare<br />

officers have also been trained by KN. Their<br />

task is to educate employees and middle<br />

management in workers’ rights, with the aim<br />

of improving relations between workers and<br />

management.<br />

” <strong>Our</strong> society is a patriarchy<br />

and the trade unions are<br />

male dominated.”<br />

Still plenty to do<br />

The contradiction of manufacturing <strong>com</strong>panies<br />

which operate in poor, developing countries<br />

implementing codes of conduct but squeezing<br />

costs at the same time is not lost on Shirin<br />

Akter. But she is convinced this kind of<br />

cooperation will benefit both sides.<br />

“If it is not only cosmetic but really for the<br />

benefit of the workers and business, then we<br />

have many things to do. H&M’s programme is<br />

integrated and long term. We are very pleased<br />

and proud of our co-operation and of the fact<br />

that H&M is concerned about workers’ rights,”<br />

concludes Shirin Akter.<br />

Rokeya Rafique and Shirin Akter campaign for<br />

workers’ rights in Bangladesh.


16<br />

17<br />

Global responsibility<br />

H&M’s world is growing year by year. As we expand, our<br />

area of responsibility also grows wider. The map shows<br />

where we sell our products and where our products are made.<br />

Cooperation and partnership<br />

UN Global Compact<br />

H&M supports the ten principles of the Global<br />

Compact on human rights, working conditions,<br />

environment and anti-corruption. Global<br />

Compact is a co-operation between the UN<br />

and industry. H&M also supports the OECD’s<br />

guidelines for multinational enterprises.<br />

Read more about Global Compact at<br />

www.unglobal<strong>com</strong>pact.org and about the OECD<br />

guidelines at www.oecd.org.<br />

The UN’s Millennium Development Goals<br />

H&M contributes to the Millennium Development<br />

Goals through its active environmental work<br />

with suppliers, including key measures such as<br />

chemicals restrictions and water treatment.<br />

The Millennium Goals are eight clear goals<br />

for global development, all with target dates.<br />

They are described in the UN Millennium<br />

Declaration which was signed by the world’s<br />

leaders during the so-called Millennium<br />

Summit in New York in 2000. Today the<br />

Millennium Development Goals are at the heart<br />

of most of the development work around the<br />

world. The goals cover areas such as fighting<br />

poverty and hunger, reducing child mortality,<br />

improving maternal health, environmental<br />

sustainability, ending gender discrimination<br />

and eradicating HIV/AIDS, malaria and other<br />

diseases.<br />

We also contribute to charity projects such<br />

as those aimed at giving people access to clean<br />

water, and giving children access to education<br />

in various parts of the world. But as a buyer of<br />

clothes in many developing countries, possibly<br />

the greatest contribution we make towards<br />

fightin g poverty is creating employment for<br />

hundreds of thousands of factory workers.<br />

Read more about the Millennium Development Goals<br />

at www.un.org/millenniumgoals.<br />

Amnesty Business Group<br />

H&M is a member of the Business Forum, part<br />

of the Amnesty Business Group. This is a<br />

group of Swedish <strong>com</strong>panies which operate<br />

internationally and which are active in the area<br />

of promoting human rights. ABG is part of the<br />

Swedish section of Amnesty International, and<br />

its mission is to teach Swedish <strong>com</strong>panies to<br />

respect, defend and promote human rights<br />

wherever they operate.<br />

As a member of the Business Forum, H&M<br />

has access to Amnesty’s knowledge network<br />

and can share experience with other international<br />

member <strong>com</strong>panies on a range of issues, from<br />

a country risk analysis to human rights training.<br />

Read more about ABG at www.amnesty.se/business.<br />

WaterAid<br />

H&M supports the work of the British aid<br />

organisation WaterAid, to improve access to<br />

and quality of water for people in Asia and<br />

Africa. For more than a billion people, getting<br />

water is a daily struggle. Women in these parts<br />

of the world can walk up to six hours a day to<br />

fetch water. H&M has been contributing to<br />

WaterAid’s work since 2002, by donating part<br />

of the revenue from selected swimwear.<br />

Read more about WaterAid at www.wateraid.org.<br />

H&M keeps its prices<br />

<strong>com</strong>petitive by:<br />

having few middlemen<br />

buying large volumes<br />

having an efficient distribution system<br />

being cost-conscious at every stage<br />

Fair Labor Association<br />

H&M has been involved in the Fair Labor<br />

Association (FLA) since 2006. FLA is an<br />

organisation that safeguards workers’ rights<br />

and seeks to improve their working conditions.<br />

FLA carries out independent checks on<br />

member <strong>com</strong>panies’ suppliers and publishes<br />

the results annually on its website. For H&M,<br />

this means another layer of quality assurance<br />

in our own system for monitoring our suppliers’<br />

factories.<br />

Read more about FLA at www.fairlabor.org.<br />

sales market<br />

production offices<br />

Clothes for charity<br />

Disasters such as war and earthquake affect<br />

people all over the world. Victims need aid,<br />

including clothing. H&M works with recognised<br />

aid organisations in every one of our sales<br />

countries. We donate clothes which, for<br />

various reasons, have failed to meet H&M’s<br />

quality standards and have therefore been<br />

rejected. Obviously we do not donate clothes<br />

that fail to meet our safety standards.


18 Did you know that... More than 500 young people have received training since<br />

19<br />

H&M opened its sewing school in Bangladesh in 1999.<br />

<strong>Our</strong> contribution to<br />

social development<br />

An important part of H&M’s responsibility is to contribute to local<br />

development in countries where our projects are manufactured<br />

or sold. It is also important that we can be involved in the various<br />

projects and make sure that they are developing in the right<br />

direction, and are sustainable in the long term.<br />

H&M invests in young people in Bangladesh<br />

Many young people in Bangladesh dream<br />

about getting a job in a garment factory. But<br />

many of them lack vocational education and<br />

can only perform simple and monotonous<br />

tasks at the factories. In 1999, H&M started a<br />

training course in sewing for young people in<br />

Dhaka, the capital. This has now grown into<br />

two training centres where a total of 100 young<br />

people a year receive vocational training in<br />

sewing after finishing their basic education.<br />

H&M pays wages during the training period,<br />

and once students have <strong>com</strong>pleted their training<br />

they are guaranteed a job as a machinist at one<br />

of H&M’s suppliers.<br />

“ I have had opportunities<br />

that otherwise might not<br />

be possible.”<br />

Mohammad Ashraful is 20 years old and <strong>com</strong>es<br />

from Kushtia in western Bangladesh. He lives in<br />

Dhaka with his parents and four brothers and<br />

sisters. Mohammad came to H&M’s training<br />

centre via the organisation BRAC. He says he<br />

enjoyed the training: instead of just learning<br />

about an individual aspect of the job, he now<br />

understands the whole manufacturing process.<br />

He has also learned about issues such as health<br />

and safety in the workplace. Mohammed believes<br />

that the training has given him opportunities he<br />

would not otherwise have had. After <strong>com</strong>pleting<br />

the course he got a job at one of the factories<br />

H&M buys from. He is currently undergoing<br />

in-house training at the factory to be<strong>com</strong>e a<br />

supervisor, and dreams of being a factory<br />

manager one day.<br />

H&M trains young people in sewing in Dhaka.<br />

H&M helps to raise factory workers’ awareness of<br />

HIV/Aids and health.<br />

UNICEF’s education for girls<br />

More than 120 million children all over the<br />

world are denied the opportunity to go to<br />

school, and the majority of them are girls.<br />

This violates the convention on the rights of<br />

the child, which states that all children have<br />

the same human rights including the right to a<br />

free basic education. The international “25 by<br />

2005” campaign, which is supported by H&M,<br />

aims to accelerate the development of girls’<br />

education. One aspect of the work is aimed<br />

at changing attitudes among authorities and<br />

parents, to show them the benefits of<br />

allowing girls to go to school. Another is to<br />

make education more practically accessible.<br />

The mobile school is one concept being<br />

pursued by UNICEF, bringing classrooms to<br />

places which traditional education cannot<br />

normally reach. UNICEF also trains female<br />

teachers and provides special grants for girls.<br />

Read more on page 22.<br />

Preventing the spread of HIV/Aids<br />

in Cambodia<br />

Cambodia has the fastest-growing rate of HIV/<br />

Aids in south-east Asia. It is also a country<br />

where H&M’s clothes are made, so it seems<br />

only right that we should help to try and<br />

prevent the spread of HIV/Aids there. This is<br />

another project where H&M works in<br />

partnership with UNICEF.<br />

Around 290,000 people work in some 200<br />

garment factories in Cambodia. The majority<br />

of them are young women, a risk group that<br />

UNICEF is making special efforts to reach.<br />

H&M plays a key role here by encouraging the<br />

factories to allow their employees to take part<br />

in the preventative activities organised by<br />

UNICEF during working hours. The aim is to<br />

increase female factory workers’ awareness of<br />

HIV/Aids and knowledge of other health<br />

issues, to help them improve their healthcare<br />

and to make it easier for them to make<br />

informed choices.<br />

Other resources have also been devoted to<br />

the project. For example, a helpline has been<br />

set up where anyone can ring and ask<br />

questions about HIV/Aids. H&M is one of the<br />

<strong>com</strong>panies providing the funding for this. The<br />

number of enquiries has risen recently, and the<br />

line is now open six days a week.


Did you know that... H&M’s chemicals requirements are based on the sales country which has the strictest standards. 21<br />

Environmental responsibility<br />

Just as H&M takes responsibility for the working conditions in the<br />

suppliers’ factories, we also accept responsibility for how our products<br />

affect the local environment in the manufacturing countries.<br />

Clean air, fresh water and unspoiled nature can<br />

no longer be taken for granted anywhere in the<br />

world. People and <strong>com</strong>panies have to shoulder<br />

responsibility for ensuring that development is<br />

sustainable. For H&M, this means minimising<br />

our impact on the environment. It also means<br />

that anyone who <strong>com</strong>es into contact with H&M’s<br />

products should be able to do so without fear of<br />

dangerous chemicals. That’s why H&M pursues<br />

an active environmental policy in countries<br />

where our products are manufactured and sold.<br />

<strong>Our</strong> code of conduct includes<br />

environmental requirements<br />

H&M’s environmental standards are described<br />

in our code of conduct. One of the stipulations<br />

is that all suppliers have to <strong>com</strong>ply with their<br />

own national legislation. <strong>Our</strong> auditors check<br />

that the factories have all the approvals required<br />

from the relevant authorities. They also check<br />

that factories with processes such as dyeing or<br />

washing are treating the waste water. They check<br />

how the chemicals are handled and make sure<br />

that hazardous waste is dealt with responsibly.<br />

Reduced environmental impact<br />

in production<br />

Across the whole finishing chain from fibre to<br />

finished garment, the dyeing and washing of<br />

fabric are two of the processes that have the<br />

greatest environmental impact. That’s why<br />

H&M has extended its environmental work in<br />

recent years to include production stages that<br />

take place before the sewing of our garments<br />

even begins, namely the production of the<br />

fabrics. We have launched a programme,<br />

Cleaner Production, which aims to make textile<br />

production cleaner. By drawing attention to the<br />

economic advantages of reducing energy, water<br />

and chemicals in fabric production, we have tried<br />

to encourage suppliers outside our direct supply<br />

chain to make environmental improvements. In<br />

countries where water and energy are in short<br />

supply it is important for the environment that all<br />

industry is operated as efficiently as possible,<br />

using the fewest possible resources. Reduced<br />

Respect for nature is one of H&M’s environmental goals.<br />

volumes of input chemicals, including dyes,<br />

lessen the strain on the environment by lowering<br />

emissions. In an initial step, Cleaner Production<br />

has been introduced at a number of textile<br />

suppliers in India, China and Bangladesh, but<br />

the aim is to extend the programme to as many<br />

countries as possible.<br />

H&M uses organic cotton<br />

To further reduce the impact on the environment,<br />

H&M has started using small quantities of<br />

organically grown cotton from Turkey. The<br />

annual global production of organic cotton is<br />

still too small to be used for large volumes of<br />

garments. Thanks to H&M and other <strong>com</strong>panies<br />

demanding greater quantities of organic cotton,<br />

the amount of cotton grown without artificial<br />

fertilisers and pesticides is increasing.<br />

H&M’s chemicals restrictions<br />

apply to all suppliers<br />

Another important part of our environmental<br />

work involves monitoring and limiting the use of<br />

chemicals which are potentially harmful to<br />

people and the environment. We have therefore<br />

prohibited or limited the use of a number of<br />

chemicals in production. All prohibitions and<br />

limit values are set out in H&M’s Chemicals<br />

Restrictions, which all our suppliers have to sign<br />

and <strong>com</strong>ply with. Examples of substances on<br />

the restrictions list include lead, phthalates and<br />

brominated flame retardants. Since 2002 H&M’s<br />

products have also been <strong>com</strong>pletely PVC-free.<br />

Eco-labelled clothes – the Flower<br />

Since autumn 2005 H&M has been selling<br />

basic babywear marked with EU’s eco-label,<br />

the Flower. The Flower certifies that harmful<br />

substances have been limited and water<br />

pollution reduced across the whole<br />

production chain, from the raw cotton to the<br />

final product. The label’s quality criteria also<br />

guarantee the garment’s ability to keep its<br />

shape and colour. Babywear bearing the<br />

Flower label also <strong>com</strong>plies with H&M’s own<br />

chemicals restrictions.<br />

Read more about our environmental work at<br />

www.hm.<strong>com</strong>/csr.


22 23<br />

Children are our<br />

shared responsibility<br />

“ The workers must be given the opportunity<br />

to influence their own situation”<br />

Children at a nursery school in Prey Prang in Cambodia.<br />

The nursery is run by UNICEF, with help from H&M.<br />

We are proud of the progress already<br />

achieved through the implementation of our<br />

code of conduct, but we are also humbled by<br />

the challenge still facing us, which is to bring<br />

about a long-term improvement in the situation<br />

of everyone involved in the manufacture of our<br />

products.<br />

There have been immense improvements in<br />

the factories since we introduced our code of<br />

conduct in 1997. But our work over the past<br />

few years has also taught us how hard it is<br />

to make the changes permanent. We want<br />

to help and motivate our suppliers to take<br />

on the responsibility for respecting human<br />

rights and offering their employees good<br />

working conditions. So our focus now is on<br />

encouraging our suppliers to introduce better<br />

management systems at the factories and<br />

improve the dialogue between employers and<br />

employees.<br />

Training is important<br />

Training for both management and workforce<br />

is important to achieve long-term, sustainable<br />

change. Cooperation with other <strong>com</strong>panies,<br />

voluntary organisations and trade unions is also<br />

necessary if we are to achieve lasting results.<br />

I am fortunate to be part of a fantastic team.<br />

We have built up the broad expertise that is<br />

required to be able to form a true picture of<br />

the working conditions at a factory. We are<br />

able to see through the attempts that sadly<br />

are sometimes made to deceive our auditors.<br />

In addition, our membership of the Fair Labor<br />

Association allows independent experts to<br />

assess the quality of our work.<br />

We believe that working conditions at our<br />

suppliers’ factories should not be dependent<br />

upon us as buyers. <strong>Our</strong> aim is therefore to<br />

ensure that workers are informed about their<br />

rights and thus get the opportunity to influence<br />

their own situation.<br />

Ingrid Schullström,<br />

CSR Manager, H&M<br />

Almost 400,000 children are born each day<br />

around the world. No matter where they are<br />

born, they have the same right to survive and<br />

to grow into healthy and independent<br />

individuals. But many of them will need help<br />

along the way. Otherwise almost 30,000 of<br />

them will die before they reach the age of five.<br />

That’s where UNICEF <strong>com</strong>es in.<br />

<strong>Our</strong> work is very much about changing<br />

attitudes. We work with governments and local<br />

organisations in an attempt to establish contacts<br />

everywhere, down to the smallest village. We<br />

also try and get the business <strong>com</strong>munity to take<br />

on a greater share of the responsibility - both<br />

here at home and in the countries where we<br />

work. <strong>Our</strong> collaboration with H&M is an<br />

excellent example of this broad cooperation.<br />

One of the areas H&M has chosen to focus on<br />

is the right of girls to an education. This is one<br />

of UNICEF’s top priorities. We know from<br />

experience that investment in girls’ education<br />

is critical, not just for the girls themselves and<br />

their families but also for the country as a<br />

whole. We also know that programmes that<br />

help girls also help boys who don’t go to school.<br />

Thanks to H&M’s contribution, thousands of<br />

children’s lives will be changed for the better.<br />

This benefit will be passed on to the families<br />

and will start a positive spiral that benefits the<br />

whole of society and future generations.<br />

Lotta Linden, Corporate Project Manager at the<br />

Swedish branch of UNICEF<br />

NAME<br />

NATIONALITY<br />

LIVES IN<br />

PROFESSION<br />

INGRID SCHULLSTRÖM<br />

Swedish<br />

STOCKHOLM, Sweden<br />

CSR manager, H&M


Read more ...<br />

... about how H&M works with environmental and social responsibility<br />

www.hm.<strong>com</strong>/csr<br />

Read more about corporate responsibility<br />

UN Global Compact<br />

www.unglobal<strong>com</strong>pact.org<br />

OECD guidelines for multinational enterprises<br />

www.oecd.org<br />

Fair Labor Association<br />

www.fairlabor.org<br />

Amnesty Business Group<br />

www.amnesty.se/business<br />

Read more about human rights and working conditions<br />

Universal declaration of human rights<br />

www.un.org/rights<br />

Convention on the rights of the child<br />

www.unicef.org/crc<br />

ILO conventions and re<strong>com</strong>mendations<br />

www.ilo.org<br />

Read more about environmental issues<br />

United Nations Environment Programme<br />

www.unep.org<br />

European Environment Agency<br />

www.eea.eu.int<br />

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency<br />

www.epa.gov<br />

Greenpeace<br />

www.greenpeace.org<br />

If you have any questions, please contact us via our<br />

website at www.hm.<strong>com</strong>.<br />

AUGUST 2006<br />

Printed on chlorine-free paper in a printing process with<br />

reduced environmental impact.

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