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Don't Let Your Systems Drive Your Customers Crazy! - Hospitality ...

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SERVICE<br />

The Dangers of Being a Host<br />

A<br />

recent dining experience of mine might be of interest to<br />

some of you. My girlfriend and I go to a particular restaurant<br />

at least once a week. As people have a habit of doing,<br />

we had discovered a place that impressed us, and we’d fallen into<br />

a pattern of regular patronage. We knew what we were going to<br />

get; there were never any surprises just good food and informed,<br />

friendly service.<br />

The food is a blend of traditional Japanese artistry and local<br />

ingredients. Always very fresh, always presented superbly, and<br />

good value. The ambiance is modern, airy, chic. We bring the tone<br />

of the place down by coming-in dressed in tracksuits after playing<br />

sport in the evening.<br />

I’d never had any disappointments eating there, so when a<br />

group of my friends prevailed on me for a suggestion for a good<br />

night out, I broke my usual golden rule and extolled it’s virtues. I<br />

should have known better.<br />

If a hospitality consultant gives a restaurant recommendation,<br />

it is taken as gospel and creates very high expectations. I’ve<br />

found that very few restaurants are consistent enough in their<br />

performance for me to feel totally confident in their delivery. I<br />

might go there myself, but I don’t usually recommend them to<br />

others.<br />

This particular night everything conspired against me. Sadly,<br />

I was there as the host, cringing in excruciating embarrassment as<br />

a performance worthy of Basil Fawlty unfolded around me.<br />

We arrived at about 8.00pm, and were seated and offered<br />

a drink. I noticed that there were less front of house staff than<br />

“ `Bring me the owner’s head on<br />

a plate!’, I seethed inside, smiling<br />

through clenched teeth. ”<br />

normal and that the tables were filling-up fast. The staff were<br />

starting to move rapidly and gesticulate in that urgent manner<br />

that denotes a foodservice system that is beginning to unravel at<br />

the seams.<br />

We ordered several large platters of sushi and sashimi. My<br />

guests commenced a lively conversation which was punctuated<br />

by the waiter returning at regular intervals to take orders for more<br />

drinks. My friends were not being bashful with the alcohol, and<br />

I’d foolishly suggested that Tadcaster Porter (a fairly potent stout)<br />

went particularly well with sushi. They accepted this recommendation<br />

with gusto and bounced into it.<br />

Out of the corner of my eye I could see the restaurant owner<br />

and the waiters going into little huddles and conversing in an animated<br />

manner. What was happening? I was beginning to become<br />

concerned we had been there nearly 45 minutes, we’d had about<br />

six large glasses of stout each, and no food in sight. I called the<br />

waiter.<br />

“I’m terribly sorry, Mr Eldred. We have twice the number of<br />

customers we usually get on a Thursday night, and every table has<br />

by Tony Eldred<br />

ordered sushi. There will be a delay.” I confirmed this myself by<br />

checking-out the sushi chef — this `sensitive artiste’ was resisting<br />

all efforts to increase his productivity and was hiding behind a<br />

decidedly hostile expression and a malevolent looking cleaver.<br />

“I thought you said this was a good restaurant, Eldred. I’m<br />

starving! Where’s the food?” It began good naturedly and slowly<br />

rose to a venomous crescendo. An hour had passed; still no sushi.<br />

I wanted to run away. It was time for action. I did the only thing<br />

that seemed sensible at the time: I ordered sake for myself and<br />

drank it. Then I ordered another.<br />

The waiter finally approached the table after an hour and<br />

twenty minutes and deposited three small plates of sushi, each<br />

containing five pieces, on our table. You could feel the wave of<br />

disappointment. “That’s not what we ordered. Where’s the sashimi?<br />

This won’t feed six people,” said one guest. “Eldred, this is<br />

ridiculous, what kind of restaurant have you brought us to? I<br />

thought you were supposed to be the expert.”<br />

Six stouts and two sakes can have different effects on different<br />

people. I was half pissed and furious. Out of the hundred or<br />

so times I had visited the place, why had they chosen to screw up<br />

on the occasion I had brought guests? Why me Lord? . . . I called<br />

the waiter.<br />

He wasn’t having a good night either, and was obviously fedup<br />

with dealing with irate customers. His response to my assertion<br />

that we were not happy brought the full, shrill, bitchy, handson-hips<br />

routine: “What are you complaining about? We’ve given<br />

you something to eat! I wrote the right order on the docket, it’s<br />

not my fault.”<br />

`Bring me the owner’s head on a plate!’, I seethed<br />

inside, smiling through clenched teeth. I stood-up<br />

and went to confront the great man himself. He was<br />

having a bad night too. Stifling the intense urge to<br />

commit a violent crime of passion, I approached him<br />

and told him of my disappointment. “What can I<br />

do?” he replied with a shrug more reminiscent of Tel<br />

Aviv than Tokyo.<br />

Eventually we ordered something they could supply and we<br />

all got fed after two hours waiting. The crowd died down, the sushi<br />

chef became less menacing and the owner regained his composure.<br />

He was most apologetic. He even sent us a complimentary<br />

bottle of wine. Nice one — more alcohol — that’s just what<br />

I felt we needed. My friends were already primed to the point<br />

where they were drooling and talking shorthand.<br />

Despite the owner’s attempt at conciliation, they were so unimpressed<br />

with the place they elected to leave a ten cent tip after<br />

a deliberately loud debate.<br />

I still get rubbished about that night, and I’ve had reservations<br />

about going there ever since. I know that I’m being unreasonable;<br />

one in a hundred isn’t a bad screw-up ratio, but now I’ve<br />

got this subconscious mental association linking the restaurant<br />

with pain and social humiliation.<br />

Tony Eldred is the Managing Director of hospitality management consultants Eldred<br />

<strong>Hospitality</strong> Pte. Ltd. For more information visit www.eldtrain.com.au or email<br />

Tony directly at teldred@eldtrain.com.au!<br />

58 HOSPITALITY MALDIVES OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2006

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