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PacificSD's - Pacific San Diego Magazine

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taste<br />

D R I N K<br />

Accidental<br />

Purist<br />

Falling in love with a hometown brew<br />

By Brandon Hernández<br />

<strong>San</strong> Diegans love their <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> beer. So do out-of-towners, and no<br />

discussion of SD suds is complete without mention of the brew that<br />

started the nation’s love affair with America’s Finest City—Stone Brewing<br />

Co.’s Arrogant Bastard Ale. Since its introduction in 1997, this brawny,<br />

yet strangely endearing brew has been one of the biggest selling beers and<br />

talking points among craft beer enthusiasts in the US. All this, despite a marketing<br />

campaign that deems the average beer drinker “unworthy” and unable to handle<br />

something so incredible.<br />

Ironically, it was an error during the initial brewing process that created Arrogant<br />

Bastard’s one-of-a-kind, in-your-face flavor profile. No one could have predicted<br />

then that this most delightful blunder would make beer journalists and drinkers<br />

worldwide not only talk about Stone (the 15th largest brewery on the planet) but also<br />

come to regard <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County as craft beer nirvana.<br />

Over the past 13 years, Stone has (purposely) spawned three distinct permutations of<br />

the beer, which have garnered as much of a following as the original. Since everybody’s<br />

tastes are different, I rounded up my very own beer-geek panel to give the skinny on<br />

what to expect from each of these beloved Bastards.<br />

IN POUR TASTE<br />

BEER BUDS BANTER ‘BOUT BOTTLED BASTARDS<br />

Jim Crute: A certified beer judge and the head guy at Poway’s Lightning Brewery. Crute’s<br />

flavorful Lightning Amber Ale is the closest thing to Arrogant Bastard Ale in the local market,<br />

making him the perfect pro to weigh in on this family of brews.<br />

Jason Megraw: A long-time homebrewer inspired to take up the hobby by Arrogant Bastard Ale.<br />

Brandon Hernández: A food and beer journalist whose perceptions of what beer is and can be<br />

were changed after tasting Arrogant Bastard Ale in ‘98.<br />

Arrogant Bastard Ale<br />

7.2% alcohol by volume (ABV), in 22 oz.<br />

bottles<br />

A copper-hued beer that’s assertively<br />

bitter with a caramely undercurrent and<br />

refreshingly light body that belies its<br />

robust, yet not overly complex, flavor.<br />

Jim Crute: “A classic American ale,<br />

well-hopped with American hop<br />

varieties and maltiness that mostly<br />

stands up to its bitterness.”<br />

Get Some: Just about everywhere—it’s<br />

one of the nation’s most readily<br />

available craft beers.<br />

OAKED Arrogant Bastard Ale<br />

7.2% ABV, wood-aged in 12 oz. bottle<br />

six-packs<br />

A smoother, silkier version of the<br />

original that features an almost smoky<br />

woodiness, hints of vanilla and a bit more<br />

hop bitterness than the base model.<br />

Jason Megraw: “This is a good beer<br />

if you don’t like IPAs (India pale ales).<br />

There’s intense bitterness, but it doesn’t<br />

assault the senses.”<br />

Get Some: Better-stocked local<br />

grocery stores and liquor stores yearround.<br />

Double Bastard Ale<br />

11.2% ABV, winter seasonal in 22 oz.<br />

bottles<br />

A harsher, sweeter concoction with<br />

pronounced citrus hop notes plus a dry<br />

finish, prune-like aroma and warming<br />

quality common in high-alcohol brews.<br />

Hernández: “It’s much drier and<br />

sweeter than the lower-alcohol version,<br />

with cereal-like notes plus a bit of<br />

afterburn at the end.”<br />

Get Some: Well-stocked grocery and<br />

liquor stores starting in November.<br />

Lukcy Bastard Ale<br />

8.5% ABV, limited one-time release in<br />

22 oz. bottles<br />

A blending of original, Oaked and<br />

Double Bastard, this “cuvee” comes<br />

on strong with a melee of fruitiness,<br />

earthiness and oakiness, all battling for<br />

attention on the palate.<br />

Hernández: “There’s a distinct dried<br />

fruit burst at first taste that’s almost<br />

immediately canceled out by a dry,<br />

grainy finish.”<br />

Get Some: BevMo and beer-centric<br />

liquor stores right now.<br />

56 pacificsandiego.com { February 2011}

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