Emulsifiers for Skin Care Applications

Additional Benefits
Skin Feel
Particular “light and silky” W/O creams and lotions with a soft, dry, non-sticky skin feel and low fatting properties can be formulated
with the organosilicone emulsifiers of the ABIL ® family. Especially ABIL ® EM 97 is known to provide an elegant “silky soft”
character to emulsions.
For the formulation of emulsions with a particular rich skin feel – as desired for Night Creams, All Weather Creams or Baby Creams
– we recommend to use the ISOLAN ® polyglycerol esters such as ISOLAN ® GI 34 and ISOLAN ® PDI.
W/O Lotions with a pleasant very light, non-oily skin feel can be obtained using ISOLAN ® GPS.
Excellent Heat/Freeze Stability
As shown in Figure 2, the heat stability of W/O emulsions is significantly improved by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsifiers
with a high molecular weight. The best available option to formulate emulsions with an excellent heat stability (depending on the
formulation up to + 60 °C) is therefore the organosilicone emulsifier ABIL ® EM 90.
As a PEG-free, vegetable based alternative to ABIL ® EM 90 the polymeric polyglycerol ester ISOLAN ® PDI is recommended.
Depending on the formulation a heat stability up to + 50 °C can be reached.
With both emulsifiers freeze stabilities of - 25 °C can be obtained. A high emulsion stabilizing effect is also given with ISOLAN ® GPS.
Cold Processing
Working with wax-free formulations in a cold emulsification process is becoming more and more important for mass-market W/O
lotions. Since the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsifiers ABIL ® EM 90, ABIL ® WE 09, ABIL ® EM 97, ISOLAN ® PDI and
ISOLAN ® GPS are liquid, they are well suited for such cold processed formulations. As stabilizer Zinc Stearate proved to be most
effective.
Emulsifiers for O/W Emulsions
Worldwide, the type of emulsion most often produced and used is of the oil-in-water variety. O/W emulsions include the more
common types of cosmetic creams and lotions, as well as sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids.
Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsifiers
Organosilicone Emulsifier
• ABIL ® Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
The silicone based, liquid product ABIL ® Care 85 combines the characteristics of an O/W emulsifier with an added value concerning
the velvety skin feel which can be obtained in emulsions based upon it.
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